I am very sorry that this has come so late, and beg your apologies. Put simply I have been thinking about what to say, and nothing seems particularly satisfactory. To begin at the beginning, it was already quite warm when I went to Alba for Alba Wines in Mid May 2003, and when I returned to Asti for Barbera Meeting in early June it was hot. Hot enough that even Italian men of mature years were wearing shorts in town (something almost unheard of outside of beach resorts), and the horrible thing was that temperatures didn't fall off at night as they normally do.
June flowed into July, July into August, and August into September with nary a change: Hundred degree day after hundred degree day, blinding, baking sun, and hardly a drop of rain. It was frankly too much, and the vines in much of Northern Italy went into drought survival mode: while sugars did continue to accumulate, phenolic ripening (the accumulation of the compounds that give color and structure) slowed or stopped, tannin ripening suffered, and in extreme cases the vines drew moisture back out of the grapes to survive.
The result was a collection of blighted wines; as a general characteristic they are quite alcoholic, but depending upon what happened in the specific vineyard, followed several different paths. Where there was sufficient moisture for the vines not to suffer drought stress, unless the winemakers carefully managed the leaf canopy, making certain to shade the grapes as much as possible, the grapes overripened while their acidities plummeted, and the resulting wines present plumy cooked aromas combined with excessive softness. Where drought stress instead kicked in, problems with phenolic ripening resulted in weak color and structure, while the tannins can be unripe and green, or even strident. In other words, in much of Italy 2003 is a vintage to be approached with extreme caution.
The 2003 Barolo is, alas, no exception, and the presentation at Alba Wines this year was thoroughly disheartening: Heatstruck wine after heatstruck wine, and as the first morning progressed my colleagues and I exchanged worried looks, which became resignation by mid-afternoon.
"My sure bets aren't working this year," an esteemed journalist muttered to me at lunch, while another said he wouldn't sip them, and couldn't imagine what they'd go with either, and by mid-afternoon a third was planning to return to Piemonte in the fall because what he had tasted in the morning fell far short of his expectations regarding Barolo, and he hoped a few more months might effect an improvement. (He was a bit more positive when I saw him this fall, but just a bit, and in my experience when one goes looking for improvements one is likely to find them by being more forgiving than one might normally be.)
Returning to the tasting, things didn't get any better in the subsequent days; 2003's imprint was evident in all of the Comuni in the appellation, and this means that you should approach Barolo from the 2003 vintage with considerable caution, and taste before you buy anything more than a single bottle, because the general reputations of the various winemakers offer no guarantees: If their vines suffered, they suffered (and I suspect what are usually considered the best vineyards, with great exposures and drainage, suffered the most), and the winemakers them made the best of what they could salvage. Because of this situation, I have decided to depart from my usual scoring for these wines. 2 stars are still 2 stars, a good to very good wine, and 1 star is sufficient to good. But I have added a third category -- Heat Struck -- for wines that I thought really suffered Nature's Fist. While one could argue that these wines deserve a single star, or even no star, I think it is better to identify the wine as a child of the vintage: 2004 is a very different year, and many of the winemakers who were heat struck in 2003 will be presenting very different animals next year.
Truth be told, they will likely resemble the other Barolo presented this year at Alba Wines: The 2001 Barolo Riserva, which provided us with a wonderful change of pace on the last day. It's a magnificent vintage, with great depth and finesse coupled with tremendous power, and though the wines were still very young they were for the most part out of the angry phase really young Barolo goes through, and beginning the long climb to greatness. You could drink them now if you absolutely feel you must, but if you have the patience to give them time, or better yet lots of time, 10-20 years even, you will be richly rewarded.
Having said all this, the wines:
Azienda Agricola Sobrero Francesco e Figli di Settimo e Pierfranco
Via Pugnane, 3/A
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.sobrerofrancesco.it
Sobrero Francesco e Figli Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and leathery, with moderate spice, some greenish accents, and cut flowers supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with warm leathery accents more than fruit, and ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean finish that has unusual cut flower accents. Because of its softenss it will work better with drier meats, and I'm not sure how long it will age for.
1 star
Boroli Silvano ed Elena
Fraz. Madonna di Como, 34
12051 Alba (CN) Italia
http://www.boroli.it/index.html
Boroli Silvano ed Elena Villero Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit settled, with savory accents and some spice mingled with some rosa canina, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by lively wild strawberry acidity, and by tannins that have a slight greenish bite to them, and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's brighter on the palate than I would have expected from the nose, and though the heat of the summer is evident in the greenness of the tannins it shows nice balance and will drink well with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Boroli Silvano ed Elena Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather mingled with rhubarb and some rosa canina. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and smooth slightly leathery tannins. It's not as rich as a better vintage might be, but pleasant enough. Drink with drier meats.
1 star
Brovia Azienda Agricola
Via Alba-Barolo, 54
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.brovia.net
Brovia Villero Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with pale black reflections and almandine rim heading towards orange. The bouquet is shut tight, and swishing brings up some alcohol and slight spice but little else at the outset; as it opened leathery notes and warmth emerge. On the palate it's full, slightly sweet, and soft, with warm slightly bitter berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a warm clean finish. It clearly reveals the heat of the summer in its softness, and because of said softness will work best with drier meats.
1 star
Brovia Cà Mia Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up a combination of acidity and cedar with some underlying alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with moderate plum fruit supported by tannins that are furious and have bitter accents that increase the heat that they give off.
Heat Struck
Molino Franco - Cascina Rocca
Via Alba di Barolo, 117A
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.cascinarocca.com
Cascina Rocca Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with alcohol and considerable cedar that blend with warmth; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that lay an aggressive burr over the tongue, and flow into a long tannic finish with alcoholic warmth. It clearly reflects the vintage, and needs time for the tannins to fold in, though the softness of the fruit is such that I'm not sure how much time it has.
Heat Struck
Cascina Rocca / Franco Molino Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet cardboard and balsamic spice mingled with warmth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with minerality and bitterness supported by smooth tannins; there's not much fruit, and the structure is carried by what's left.
Heat Struck
Cascina Rocca Villero Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spicy accents and greenish overtones mingled with some peppery aromas. On the palate it's warm, and full, with fairly rich slightly leathery berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while direction comes from deft slightly balsamic acidity, and it all flows into a clean slightly tannic finish. It's pleasant, in a slightly splintery key, and will smooth with time, though it will drink nicely now with succulent red meats. Expect it to age well for at least a decade or more, and it's worth seeking out if you like the fairly traditional style.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cavalier Bartolomeo di Borgogno Dario
Via Alba-Barolo, 55 - Loc. Garbelletto
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
Tel. +39 0173 62866
Cavalier Bartolomeo Vigneti Solanotto Altinasso Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is overripe, with sweetish fruit supported by green leather -- the combination somehow brings pickles to mind -- and rhubarb, with slight hot iron as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with slightly sweet plum berry fruit supported by ample smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean distinctly tannic finish. It needs at least a year for the tannins to fold in, at which point it will drink well with drier meats, though I wouldn't hold it for too long because the fruit is rather tired now, and that will only progress with time.
Heat Struck
Cavallotto Fratelli - Tenuta Vitivinicola Bricco Boschis
Via Alba-Monforte, Bricco Boschis
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.cavallotto.com
Cavallotto F.lli Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with alcohol and cedar mingled with sweetness and peppery accents. On if's full, and fairly sweet, with ample sour berry fruit supported by alcoholic warmth, moderate acidity, and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish tinge and work from below the surface. It's very much a child of the vintage, but manages a certain grace, and will drink well with drier meats or light stews. I'd hold it another year, perhaps two, even, but not much longer.
1 star
Cavallotto Fratelli Bricco Boschis Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly green, with some herbal accents and petroleum as well, with underlying balsam. It feels heavy, somehow. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright red berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. I'd have expected more; it's a bit thin and the nose isn't as interesting nor as rich as I'd want.
1 star
Cavallotto Fratelli Bricco Boschis Vignolo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, and though swishing brings up some spice and cedary accents, with hints of green leather, it's not as rich as I might have liked. On the palate it's ample and smooth, and fairly direct, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery, and flow into a clean rather spicy tannic finish. The palate carries much better than the nose, and to be honest I think it's in a down phase. In other words, give it time -- another couple of years, at least, and then drink it with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Fenocchio
Loc. Bussia Sottana, 66
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.fenocchio.com
Fenocchio Giacomo Villero Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, thought slight green leather emerges with instance. On the palate it's full and soft, with rather sweet berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that do have a youthful burr, and flow into a clean tannic finish.
Heat Struck
Fenocchio Giacomo Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with warm spicy accents mingled with some red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins. The overall impression is fairly lax, and it is soft, but it will drink well with drier meats.
Heat Struck
Fenocchio Giacomo Bussia Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather laced with berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's again fairly rich, and smooth, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have warm smooth accents and flow into a clean warm finish. It's pleasant, but I found myself wishing the tannins had more grip -- there's a softness to the wine that reduces its definition.
1 star
Fontana Ettore
Via Pugnane, 12
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
Tel. +39 0173 62844
Fontana Ettore Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is wild, with considerable balsamic warmth coupled with alcohol, some greenish spice, and sweetness. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, while there is a little acidity, enough to keep the wine from flagging. Because of its softness it will work best with drier meats.
Heat Struck
Fontana Ettore Villero Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Slightly cloudy almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is leathery, with some acidic warmth and bitter underpinning On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich sour slightly balsamic red berry fruit supported by fairly bright balsamic acidity, and by smooth tannins that have a velvety feel to them. It's pleasant, but has a rather thick feel to it; it found myself wanting greater tightness and definition than I found. It is instead a bit settled, and rather lax.
1 star
Casa Vinicola Fratelli Giacosa
Via XX Settembre, 64
12057 Neive (CN)
http://www.giacosa.it
Giacosa F.lli Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some greenish accents, and sweetness with some underlying berry fruit; it's fairly direct but has quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean spicy tannins, while direction comes from bright acidity, and it flows into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It's clearly from a hot vintage, but has much more backbone than most of the 2003 Baroli, and will drink well with succulent red meats; I wouldn't hold it for too long, but it is pleasant. In a soft key.
2 stars
Vigneti Luigi Oddero E Figli
Frazione Santa Maria Borgata Bettolotti, 95
12064 La Morra (Cuneo)
http://www.vignetiluigioddero.it
Luigi Oddero e Figli Rocche Rivera Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections. The nose is unusual, with quite a bit of acidity and a fair amount of alcohol; there's also hot iron, and I conclude I am not going to taste it.
Heat Struck
Luigi Oddero e Figli Vigna Rionda Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is off, with hot iron and greenish spice, and not at all inviting.
Heat Struck
Luigi Oddero e Figli Rocche Rivera Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slight cedar mingled with some greenish menthol accents and underlying green leather, also some rosa canina. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, though the richness is mostly minerality and I would have preferred more fruit and greater fruit driven acidity; the finish is clean and fairly rich with elegant velvety tannins. But the fruit is less present than I would have liked. Oddly absent, even.
1 star
Luigi Oddero e Figli Vigna Rionda Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with slight greenish accents mingled with spice and red berry fruit and some delicate herbal accents. Some alcohol too. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish; I'd have liked greater depth and tightness to the tannic structure, which is a bit lax.
1 star
Azienda Agricola F.lli Monchiero
Via Alba Monforte, 58
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.monchierovini.it
Monchiero F.lli Rocche Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet accents that bring marzipan to mind mingled with plum and red berry fruit greenish spice, and alcohol. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with plum berry fruit supported by enough acidity to keep it from flagging, and by ample sweet tannins that spread like a wave, and flow into a sweetish tannic finish. Because of its softness it will work better with drier meats.
1 star
Monchiero F.lli Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather mingled with some leaf tobacco and sweetish cedary accents. Elegant, and though it is young yet it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish. Considerable depth in a delicate lacy key, and though one could drink it now with succulent red meats, it will reward those with the patience to give it another 3-5 years, and age well for a decade or more.
89-90
Monfalletto
Frazione Annunziata, 67 bis
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.corderodimontezemolo.com
Monfalletto Enrico VI Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections. Peaches in the bouquet at first swish, coupled with sweetness and some greenish accents, rhubarb, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate very ripe red berry fruit that gains direction from moderate wild strawberry acidity, while the tannins are ample and sweet, and flow into an unusual sweet peach finish. Big, and soft, but it does hold together thanks to its acidity, and will drink best with drier meats served with rich gravies. I wouldn't hold it for long, but I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Monfalletto Monfalletto Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with spice and moderate rhubarb mingled with some peppery accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich, fairly sweet berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean finish. It's a nice expression of a hot vintage, though this is sort of a back-handed complement, because in a good vintage this particular wine would have a great deal more to say.
1 star
Monfalletto Gorette Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly strong greenish accents mingled with spice, but not much fruit or tertiary notes. Lots of cedar, however. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some plum accents and is supported by sweet plum acidity, while the tannins are ample and quite smooth, and rather soft; it's well polished and gives the idea that it will polish even further with time. In short, fairly international, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer the greater tightness of the more traditional style, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Armando Parusso di Fratelli Parusso
Località Bussia, 55
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.parusso.com
Parusso Armando Mariondino Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oddly medicinal with candied overtones -- not quite kid's cough syrup, but a fellow taster wondered if the fermentation had gotten stuck. On the palate it's sweet, with ample strawberry laced fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample tannins that work from below the surface, as it were. Something happened to it.
Heat Struck
Parusso Armando Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with yellow peaches and underlying red berry fruit supported by alcohol and some spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich strawberry fruit that's unusual for a Barolo but works well and makes sense in the context of the vintage, supported by moderate vegetal acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It manages a certain grace, and will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Parusso Armando Bussia Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, and frankly balsamic, with delicate berry fruit interwoven into greenish spice; the impression is sunny in a traditional key. On the palate it's ample, and duskier than I might have liked, with moderately intense berry fruit that would have gained from brighter acidity; it's a bit into plum rather than berry fruit, and is supported by tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue. It's more settled on the palate than I'd have expected from the nose, and though it will age well, I doubt it will ever really perk up.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Sordo Giovanni
Via Alba-Barolo, 63 - Borgata Garbelletto
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.sordogiovanni.it
Sordo Giovanni Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather and some rhubarb mingled with sweetness and some smoky spice. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean spicy tannins that flow into a warm sweetish tannic finish. It's badly out of joint, and though the tannins need time the softness of the fruit is such that I'm not sure they have that time. It will in any case work with drier meats.
Heat Struck
Sordo Giovanni Ceretta di Perno Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with alcohol and warmth mingled with some greenish accents and underlying greenish berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a warm savory finish. It's a bit dry, and decidedly tannic -- it feels like the fruit was dried out by wood, and this is something that used to happen more often than it does now.
1 star
Tenuta Montanello
Strada Alba-Monforte, 32
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
Tel. +39 0173 62820
Tenuta Montanello Montanello Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some alcohol and greenish accents that make me wonder if the grapes had problems ripening. On the palate it's full and sweet, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a clean greenish tannic finish. Disjointed and heat struck.
Heat Struck
Terre Da Vino
Via Bergesia, 6
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.terredavino.it
Terre da Vino Spa Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed tight, though swishing does bring up alcohol and come cedary accents, with underlying ripe, almost jammy berry fruit. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet with moderate fruit supported by very bitter tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish with savory overtones. I would drink it with drier meats.
Heat Struck
Terre da Vino Essenza Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with menthol and warm slightly balsamic leather supported by savory accents. On the palate it's ample, and a bit less interesting than I had expected because the fruit is frankly moderate, while the structure is carried on by a combination of mineral acidity and slightly splintery tannins. In short, nice structure, but the fruit to fill it is somewhat lacking.
1 star
Guasti Clemente E Figli S.p.A
Corso IV Novembre, 80
14049 Nizza Monferrato (AT)
http://www.clemente.guasti.it
Guasti Clemente Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with some cedar too, and alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and sweet, with ample red berry fruit supported by splintery tannins that lay a wash over the tongue, and flow into a distinctly tannic finish that has some peach overtones.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Veglio Giovanni & Figli
Via Cane Guido, 9
12050 Valle Talloria Alba (CN)
http://www.viniveglio.com/
Veglio Giovanni e Figli Barbiasco Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is medicinal, with a fair amount of cedar and some greenish accents mingled with alcohol and hints of walnut shells. On the palate it's full and sweet, with moderate fruit that's overrun by warm savory tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. The tannins cover all.
Heat Struck
La Spinetta
Via Annunziata, 17
14054 Castagnole Lanze (AT)
http://www.la-spinetta.com
La Spinetta Vigneto Campè Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vinous notes and sour berry fruit supported by greenish spice and tart overtones. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively greenish acidity and by tannins that are warm and brash; though it is obviously from a hot vintage and has aggressiveness from the tannins it holds together well, and has more backbone than many 2003 Baroli. Because of this I might be tempted to drink it with succulent red meats, though not too far into the future.
2 stars
Alario Claudio
Via S. Croce, 23
12055 Diano d'Alba (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 231808
Alario Claudio Riva Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a bit unusual, with spice and alcohol mingled with green leather and a fair amount of cedar, greenish accents, and some underlying sweetness as well. Not much fruit. on the palate it's ample and sweet, with oddly sour berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and sweet tannins; the overall effect is thick, almost syrupy.
Heat Struck
Azienda Vitivinicola Bel Colle
Frazione Castagni, 56
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.belcolle.it
Bel Colle Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, and quite intense, with a rush of, well, tangerine-flavored tang, or something along those lines. I don't think I've ever smelled anything quite like it in a red wine. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with fairly bright berry fruit that gains definition from greenish acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that lead into a yellow peach finish. Very strange, and though I expect it is a child of the vintage, I wonder exactly what happened.
Heat Struck
Bel Colle Boscato Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather medicinal, with greenish accents mingled into green leather as well. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with ample soft plum berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, flowing into a clean fairly green finish. It has a little more backbone than some, but is still very much a child of the vintage.
Heat Struck
Comm. G. B. Burlotto
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 28
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.burlotto.com
Burlotto Comm. G. B. Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe plum-berry fruit supported by greenish spice and some alcohol. On the palate it's full, and soft, with rich tart berry fruit that has some sweet accents supported by tannins that have peppery accents and flow into a fruit-laced peppery finish. There's a degree of anger in the peppery notes that keeps it on its toes, but it also displays a pleasing willowy grace. Atypical for Barolo, but quite in keeping with this vintage, and it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. It will hold for a couple of years, but I'm not sure how much longer I'd keep it. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Burlotto Commendator G.B. Vigneto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with cut flowers and some pungent notes mingled with sea salt, slight balsamic overtones, and some red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with moderate red berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a greenish burr over the tongue, while there is some acidity -- enough to provide direction -- but not too much, and the finish is fairly tannic. I'd have liked a little more brightness to the structure.
1 star
Castello Di Verduno
Via Umberto I, 9
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.castellodiverduno.com
Castello di Verduno Massara Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with spice and warmth mingled with alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that lay a cedary burr over the tongue and flow into a very tannic finish.
Heat Struck
Cantina Gigi Rosso
Strada Alba-Barolo, 20
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.gigirosso.com
Gantina Gigi Rosso Arione Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with greenish accents and some spice mingling with Moroccan leather and some hints of roses and yellow peaches, with underlying sweetness. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with fairly intense red berry fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm peppery burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean savory (very) tannic finish. It has more depth than many, and though still a child of the vintage will drink well with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Cantina Gigi Rosso Arione Surì Dell'Ulivo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright spice and some balsamic notes mingled with slight rhubarb. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit that gains definition from bright red berry fruit acidity, while a degree of sweetness from alcohol -- it's not overripe -- confers softness, and the tannic structure is deft and powerful. Pleasing in a middle of the road key, and quite promising for the future; it will drink well now with succulent red meats, and also has the legs to age nicely for many years.
88-90
Cascina Cucco - Azienda Agricola dei F.lli Stroppiana
Via Mazzini, 11
12030 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.cascinacucco.it
Cascina Cucco Vigna Cucco Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with a mixture of cocoa and cedar that brings a cedar chest in a chocolate shop to mind. No fruit emerges. On the palate it's full, and oaky, with bitter cedar and chocolate notes that flow into a tongue-bending tannic finish.
Heat Struck
Cascina Cucco Cerrati Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though some alcohol emerges with insistent swishing. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit, while much of the structure is carried by cedary tannins that flow into a distinctly cedar-laced tannic finish.
Heat Struck
Cascina Luisin
Via Rabajà, 23
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 635154
Cascina Luisin Leon Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with quite a bit of cedar mingling with some alcohol and spice; with more swishing some red berry fruit also emerges. The palate is brighter than I expected, with fairly delicate strawberry-laced berry fruit supported by clean red berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are splintery but not furious, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's not great, but is pleasant, and despite being a child of the vintage manages a certain grace. It will drink well with lighter red meats or light stews, and I would drink it fairly soon.
2 stars
Gemma
Via Mazzini, 19
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.gemmacantine.it
Gemma Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and greenish, with spice and some underlying red berry fruit mingled with alcohol. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some almost citric acidity, and by ample splintery tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with bitter accents and slight hints of balsam.
Heat Struck
Gemma Giblin Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright plum fruit supported by slight greenish accents and warm spice; there's also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with full plum fruit that gains direction from warm plum acidity, and is supported by ample cedary tannins that flow into a sweet tannic finish with plum accents. It's full enough and sweet enough to be almost syrupy, which makes me wonder if the fermentation stuck, but within the context of a hot atypical vintage is pleasant, and will drink well with drier meats. But you have to like overripe soft wines.
2 stars
Germano Ettore - Azienda Agricola di Germano Sergio
Borgata Cerretta, 1
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.germanoettore.com
Germano Ettore Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy medicinal notes and some sandalwood, which is unusual in a Nebbiolo, mingled with green leather and spice. On the palate it's full and sweet, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that are decidedly splintery and have bitter accents.
Heat Struck
Germano Ettore Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, with some cedar and slight greenish accents, but little fruit. On the palate it's ample, with the structure being primarily from tongue-curling tannins that lay a veneer over palate and teeth, and flow into a hot tannic finish.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Grimaldi Bruna
Via Roddino
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.grimaldibruna.it
Grimaldi Bruna Vigna Regnola Badarina Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slight hints of berry fruit mingling with spice and tart acidity, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with moderate red berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are fairly aggressive, and flow into a clean tannic finish that I found overly dry.
Heat Struck
Manzone Paolo
Località Borgata Reale, 2
12050 Sinio (CN)
http://www.barolomeriame.com
Manzone Gian Paolo Meriame Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with herbal accents and succulent yellow peaches mingled with spice and some green leather; it's quite intense. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with moderately intense rather soft cherry plum fruit that gains direction from slight mineral acidity, and is supported by warm fairly aggressive tannins that lay a veneer over the tongue and carry into a tannic finish.
Heat Struck
Manzone Gian Paolo Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some greenish accents and warmth, mingled with plum berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly bright cherry plum fruit that gains direction from delicate ripe red plum acidity, and is supported by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean tart finish with tannic underpinning. It's very much a child of the vintage, with the size and softness that entails, but is also graceful, and will drink nicely now with flavorful white meats served with gravies.
2 stars
Massolino
Piazza Cappellano, 8
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.massolino.it
Massolino - Vigna Rionda Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish leathery accents mingled with alcohol and some spice; there's not that much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by tart acidity, and by ample tannins that have balsamic accents, especially in the finish, which is also greenish. It's not particularly inviting.
Heat Struck
Massolino - Vigna Rionda Vigna Rionda Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, and slightly greenish, with leathery accents and clean berry fruit laced spice. Quite a bit going on, and it's still quite young. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Graceful, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats or stews in the short term, and also has the wherewithal to age well for many years, becoming lacy with time; in the future one could meditate with it. Great depth and elegance, and it's working up to finesse; it's worth seeking out if you like this fairly classic style.
92
Palladino - Azienda Vitivinicola di Palladino Maurilio
Piazza Cappellano, 9
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.palladinovini.com
Palladino Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim that's fairly pale. The bouquet is intense, with sweet leathery accents mingled with hints of roses and spice, and quite a bit of underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample, sweet, and quite smooth, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean tannic finish. Pleasant though very much a child of the vintage in its size and softness; with respect to many others it's not as aggressive, and this makes it much more welcoming.
2 stars
Palladino San Bernardo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed; swishing brings up some balsam and slight warmth, some spice, and not much else. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by clean balsamic acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly spicy finish. Pleasing in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews. If you like the style it is enjoyable, and it will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Pio Cesare
Via Cesare Balbo, 6
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.piocesare.it
Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and sweet with moderate cherry plum fruit whose interaction with (?) wood brings cola to mind, supported by fairly deft acidity and smooth tannins that have a warm peppery burr and lead into a fairly sweet finish. It's a bit disjointed, and very much the product of a hot dry vintage.
Heat Struck
Pio Cesare Ornato Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with balsamic notes and hardwood ash mingled with cedar and slight metallic overtones. On the palate it's ample and soft, with sweet plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have warm cedary notes and flow into a cedar laced finish. It's big, soft, and a child of the vintage, charged with oak.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Pira Luigi
Via XX Settembre, 9
12050 Serralunga D'Alba (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 613106
Pira Luigi Vigna Marenca Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Quite dark. The bouquet is spicy, with considerable cedar and some cocoa mingled with alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with moderately intense plum fruit that's supported by splintery tannins that lay an angry burr over the tongue, and flow into a splintery tannic finish. Very much a child of the vintage.
Heat Struck
Pira Luigi Vigna Margheria Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with moderate spice and a fair amount of alcohol, mingled with cedar and some spice, also savory notes. On the palate it's full, and oddly vegetal, with cherry plum fruit laced with vegetal accents, and supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a distinctly splintery feel to them. A fellow taster wondered about fermentation problems with a similar wine.
Heat Struck
Porro Guido Azienda Agricola
Via Alba, 1
12050 Serralunga D'Alba (CN)
http://www.guidoporro.com
Porro Guido Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with herbals notes mingled with plum fruit and some spice, also moderate acidity and some underbrush laced with chalk. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich plum fruit that slightly off-putting bitter accents and flows into a clean tannic finish. It's very much a child of the vintage.
Heat Struck
Porro Guido Vigna Santa Caterina Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is clean, and leathery, with some spice and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with fairly rich plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a child of the vintage, and overripe, but displays better balance than many, and will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Reverdito Michele
B.ta Garassini, Fraz. Rivalta
120645 La Morra (Cuneo)
http://www.reverdito.it
Reverdito Michele Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes and green leather mingled with hints of mushroom, acidity and some cocoa, all with underlying sweetness. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample plum fruit that gains slight direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by tannins that lay a tongue-curling veneer over all, flowing into an angry tannic finish so strong it catches in the throat.
Heat Struck
Reverdito Michele Moncucco Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with herbal accents and some greenish notes mingled with spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with considerable tannic support that lays a veneer over the tongue and flows into a dry tannic finish. I'd have liked greater fruit and richness even given the vintage.
Heat Struck
Tenimenti di Barolo e Fontanafredda
Via Alba, 15
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.fontanafredda.it
Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is medicinal, with hints of eucalyptus mingled with greenish accents and cedar. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with ample plum fruit that gains some direction from slight plum acidity, and is supported by ample fairly tight tannins that work from beneath the surfaces, as it were, almost moving in waves. The finish is tannic and plum laced. It's big, and soft, and because of its softness will work better with drier meats; this said, it is a child of the vintage, but does manage a certain grace.
1 star
Gabutti - Azienda Agricola di Boasso Franco
Borgata Gabutti, 3a
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.gabuttiboasso.com
Gabutti Gabutti Barolo DOCG 2003
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with spice and balsamic notes mingled with some mint and green leather; there are also hints of floral accents. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample red berry fruit that's less overripe than I might have expected supported by clean acidity, and by angry tannins that lay a veneer over the tongue, and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's angry, and quite warm, but will drink well with foods, and may hold for a year or two.
1 star
Gabutti Margheria Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with greenish cherry and forest berry fruit supported by leathery accents. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with ample forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by fairly rich tannins that are aggressive, but not as angry as those of many of the wines presented. Because of its size and relative softness it will drink well with drier meats, perhaps served with gravies.
1 star
Rivetto
Loc. Loirano, 2
12050 Sinio (CN)
http://www.rivetto.it
Rivetto dal 1902 Giulin Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up yellow peach fruit and some greenish herbal accents mingled with slight leather. On the palate it's ample, with an unusual combination of sweetness from the wine and bitterness from the tannic structure, which flows into a savory rather bitter tannic finish; the fruit which begins as red berry fruit with peach accents, simply bows out as the wine moves towards the finish.
Heat Struck
Rivetto dal 1902 Leon Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is spicy, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled with red berry fruit and some green leather; there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable tannic structure and slight acidity; it will become leathery in time, but doesn't have enough acidity to keep it from settling.
Heat Struck
Rivetto dal 1902 Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some brown sugar sweetness mingled with cedar and some greenish overtones; there's also some berry fruit, but it gives an impression of pulling back. On the palate it's ample and surprisingly sweet, with fairly rich slightly leathery berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly balsamic finish. The sweetness is a bit of a surprise, and though I found it to be somewhat distracting it's not from overripeness, but rather alcohol, and does give the wine added depth. If you like the style it will work well with succulent red meats ranging from hearty stews through game.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giovanni Rosso di Rosso Davide
Via Foglio, 18 - Località Baudana, 6
12050 Serralunga d'Alba (CN)
http://www.giovannirosso.com
Rosso Giovanni Serralunga Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with some balsam and savory accents that overshadow everything else. On the palate it's fairly full, with oddly flat fruit that has a slight leathery cast, and is supported by a mixture of sweetness (there's not much acidity at all) and very dry tannins that coat the tongue, flowing into a distinctly tannic finish. More fruit and greater depth would have been nice.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Vietti
Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http.//www.vietti.com
Vietti Lazzarito Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with greenish accents and hints of white glue mingled with green leather; there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's ample and sweet with balsam-laced plum fruit that gains direction from tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue, and have slight walnut skin overtones. It's angry, and not particularly inviting.
Heat Struck
Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit mingled with some warmth and spice, with underlying yellow peach fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by clean smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry-plum finish. It's a child of the vintage, with the softness that comes with it, but is much less overripe than many, and also displays greater depth; it will drink nicely with succulent, not too fatty red meats, and will age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli di Barale Sergio
Via Roma, 6
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.baralefratelli.it
Barale Fratelli Vigna Castellero Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some rosa canina and moderate spice, and it's also fairly bright. On the palate it's deft, and fairly lightl with graceful red berry fruit supported by clean almost citric acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that lay a warm youthful burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean bitter finish. A delicate Barolo that will age nicely, becoming lacy with time, and considering the vintage I'm impressed -- the heat is evident in slight plum accents in the finish, and in greenish notes in the tannins, but there's none of the softness or overripeness that more heatstruck wines display. Worth seeking out.
2 stars
Barale Fratelli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The nose seems pickled, in an odd way, with bright green leather and hot iron; the combination is slightly off-putting. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate cherry plum fruit that gains direction from slight acidity and is supported by tannins that have an angry burr. The vintage got to it.
Heat Struck
Bergadano Cav. Enrico - Azienda Agricola di Bergadano Pier Carlo
Via Alba, 26
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.cascinarocca.com
Bergadano Cavalier Enrico Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Looks leathery. The bouquet is warm, and slightly balsamic with underlying acidity and some green leather; it feels tired. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit that's fairly generic, supported by moderate acidity and tannins that lay a warm dry wash over the tongue and flow into a distinctly tannic finish. It's a child of the vintage.
Heat Struck
Bergadano Cav. Enrico Sarmassa Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant green leather mingled with rosa canina and deft spice an hints of leaf tobacco; considerable grace and harmony, and one could sniff it many, many times. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, and by moderate acidity that flows into a clean tannic finish. It's pleasant though I found it a little flat, and wanted greater richness of fruit carrying through the mid palate. Quibbles on the part of a taster; it will drink quite well with a hearty stew or a roast, and age nicely for many years.
2 stars
Borgogno - Azienda Agricola F.lli Serio e Battista Borgogno
Via Crosia 12, località Cannubi
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.borgognoseriobattista.it
Borgogno Fratelli Serio e Battista Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with greenish spice, some red berry fruit, and warmth mingled with slight herbal notes. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It doesn't have the depth of a better vintage, but is graceful and will drink nicely with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Borgogno Fratelli Serio e Battista Cannubi Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leathery accents mingled with greenish spice and some hints of rhubarb with warm delicate acidity that provides a counterpoint; the overall impression is harmonious. On the palate it's full, and beginning to be velvety, with ample fairly sweet cherry fruit -- the sweetness derives from the alcohol here, not overripeness -- that gains direction from deft cherry acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight savory accents and are working into velvet; the anger of youth has faded. Pleasant, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, contributing considerably to the meal.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Giacomo Brezza & Figli
Via Lomondo, 4
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.brezza.it/
Brezza Giacomo e Figli Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intent, with clean spice and leathery accents mingled with some rosa canina. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright slightly leathery fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and tannins that are ample and smooth, but do lay down a burr. It has felt the heat but isn't really heatstruck; drink it with drier meats, and expect it to age nicely dfor 3-5 years.
2 stars
Brezza Giacomo e Figli Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some mineral accents and slight underbrush mingled with spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense tart balsamic fruit supported by balsamic acidity and tannins that have a distinct greenish edge to them and flow into a tannic finish. It suffered the heat, though it has born out well and didn't go soft. Drink it with drier meats.
1 star
Bric Cenciurio
Via Roma, 24
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.briccenciurio.com
Bric Cenciurio Cosat di Rose Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a fair amount of cedar and some airy accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense slightly sour berry fruit that has sweet accents, and is supported by smooth glancing tannins that flow into a dry tannic finish. It's a touch heat struck, but holds up fairly well, and will drink well with drier meats.
1 star
Azienda Agricola G. Camerano & Figli
Via Roma, 10
12060 Barolo (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 56137
Camerano G e Figli Cannubi San Lorenzo Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with balsam and chemical notes mingled with cedar, and some acidity; alcohol too. On the palate it's ample and smooth with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by clean acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean slightly tannic finish with sour underpinning. It's in a phase with the nose, but the palate is pleasant in a hot summer key, and it will develop nicely over the next year or two, becoming a wine that will drink well with succulent red meats.
2 stars
Camerano G e Figli Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly cooked plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and some greenish overtones. On the palate it's fairly dull, and soft, with ample marzipan-laced plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, almost like a wave, and flow into a clean rather flat finish with a mixture of wood and slight plum. It suffers the heat.
Heat Struck
Cascina Adelaide
Via Aie Sottane, 14
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.cascinaadelaide.com
Cascina Adelaide Barolo DOCG 2003
Garnet with almandine rim. The bouquet is welcoming, with delicate berry fruit, rosa canina, and delicate spice. Quite young. On the palate it's full, with red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that are very young, and flow into a clean deft tannic finish. Graceful in its youth, and though one could drink it now it will develop nicely over the next 3-5 years.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide Preda Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep garnet ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with elegant berry fruit supported by tar and wood smoke, with some green leather and alcohol. Nice balance but very young. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful young red berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and have a slight cedary burr to them, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. It's very much a toddler, and the tannins are greener than they would be in a more balanced year, but the wine does sidestep the more serious problems that can arise in a very hot summer. It will nicely complement rich meats.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide Barolo Cannubi DOCG 2003
Lively garnet ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed tight at the outset, though swishing brings up alcohol, warmth, rosa canina and spice. But it's in a quiet phase. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich tart red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do reveal warmth in their structure, and flow into a clean dry tannic finish with tart overtones. Pleasant, and again reflects the vintage, though it does compensate for the heat. By comparison with the Preda, it's a bit richer.
2 stars
Cascina Adelaide Per Elen Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with distinctly greenish accents mingled with some spice, and with further swishing red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich rather languid cherry fruit directed by lively sour cherry acidity, while the support comes from ample fairly splintery tannins that carry into a warm tannic finish. It's fairly direct, but will drink very well with foods, especially succulent red meats. In other words, it could make a porterhouse steak a memorable occasion. Expect it to age well for a number of years, but it has a youthful freshness that is nice.
2 stars
Damilano
Vicolo San Sebastiano, 2
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.damilanog.com
Damilano Le Cinque Vigne Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish-black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with green leather mingled with leaf tobacco and some acidity; it seems mature for a 2003. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by smooth slightly balsamic tannins. It has been beaten down by the heat, and while not green is more on its knees than on its feet.
Heat Struck
Damilano Liste Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is strongly cedar laced with greenish accents and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported by slight mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that lay a faint veneer over the tongue. Weaker fruit than I would have wanted, and I doubt it will live long.
Heat Struck
Damilano Liste Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit musty, with hot iron mingled with hardwood ash, spice, and some India ink, and slight cedar accents; with more swishing Moroccan leather also emerges. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while what is lacking is acidity to give it all direction; it simply spreads out, but doesn't really know where it's going. I would have liked more acidity.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Deltetto
Corso Alba, 33-43
12043 Canale (CN)
http://www.deltetto.com
Deltetto Sistaglia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some vegetal accents mingled with hints of balsam and green leather. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense fairly acidic cherry plum fruit supported by some cherry acidity, and by angry tannins that lay a veneer over the tongue. It's heat struck, and the tannins are stepping in overtones carry where the fruit is not.
Heat Struck
Gagliardo Gianni
Serra dei Turchi, 88
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.gagliardo.it
Gagliardo Gianni Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is leathery, with some dusky overtones and slight balsamic notes; there's also slight leaf tobacco. Mature for a 2003. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with the structure carried by a combination of mineral acidity and smooth tannins; there isn't much fruit, and it all flows into a clean tannic finish. Heat can do unusual things.
Heat Struck
Gagliardo Gianni Serre Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some greenish accents that bring watermelon rind to mind, and moderate spice. Not much fruit The palate reflects the nose, there's moderate fairly sweet plum cherry fruit supported by slight acidity, and by angry tannins that lay a veneer over all, and flow into an angry tannic finish. It's not welcoming, and is angry with the world.
Heat Struck
Germano Angelo
Frazione Annunziata, 24/A
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.vinigermano.com
Germano Angelo Cascina San Martino Vigna Ruè Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed; swishing brings up slight plum fruit supported by green leather and some spice. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that do have a splintery feel to them, and flow into a clean peppery tannic finish. Because of its softness it will drink best with drier meats, and it does manage a degree of grace, though it is a child of the vintage. I wouldn't hold it for long.
1 star
Germano Angelo Mont D'Oca Dardi Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is clean, with some spice and a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that put down a warm angular burr. And flow into a clean plum laced finish. It's overripe, and a bit angry at being so.
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Azienda Agricola Grimaldi Giacomo & Figli
Via Luigi Einaudi, 8
12050 Barolo (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 56185
Grimaldi Giacomo Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is charged, with yellow peaches and some spice mingling with hints of green leather and some spice. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with fairly intense red plum fruit (not prune, but riper than red berry fruit) supported by clean plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that lay a tannic burr over the tongue and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a child of the vintage, but manages a degree of grace, and will drink well with drier meats.
1 star
Grimaldi Giacomo Sotto il Castello di Novello Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm and smoky, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with slight berry fruit. Fairly closed. On the palate it's ample and soft with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by some tart plum acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's graceful in a hot vintage key, and though soft pleasant; it will drink best with drier meats or light stews.
2 stars
Marchesi Di Barolo
Via Alba, 12
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.marchesibarolo.com
Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with fairly intense green leather and some balsamic notes as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense strawberry laced berry fruit supported by slight sweet accents and moderate acidity, while the tannins are somewhat splintery. And flow into a splintery finish. It's pleasant enough, though heatstruck, and I'd have liked more backbone to the fruit, which is a bit bowed and soft, again a problem related to the vintage.
1 star
Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and spice mingled with warmth and slight balsamic notes, with some metallic accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with the show carried more by mineral acidity and slight sweetness than fruit, while the tannins are smooth and provide support from underneath the surface, leading into a clean slightly mineral finish.
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Pira E. & Figli
Via Vittorio Veneto, 1
12060 Barolo (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 56247
Pira E e Figli Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of greenish cedar mingled with some hardwood ash. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample and soft with very little fruit; the structure is mostly carried by mineral acidity and ample tannins that flow into a clean finish. The fruit has dropped out, and it's like a house with nobody home.
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Poderi Luigi Einaudi
Borgata Gombe,31 - 12063 Dogliani (CN)
Tel: +39 0173
Poderi Luigi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with considerable cedar and some almost medicinal notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly sweet, moderately intense plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth ample tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. I'd have liked more, and brighter fruit; the tannins carry but they only can go so far.
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Poderi Luigi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky green leather and some acidity, but little in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, fairly sweet, and soft, with moderate plum fruit supported by plum acidity, and by tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Big, and heat struck; the intensity of the fruit has dropped out, and the acidity is adequate but not enough to be interesting.
Heat Struck
Giuseppe Rinaldi
Via Monforte, 3
12060 Barolo (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 56156
Rinaldi Giuseppe Brunate le Coste Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some cedar and hints of spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly soft plum fruit that does gain depth from some spicy accents, and direction from moderate acidity, while the tannins have a peppery burr that adds depth. It's big, and soft, but does have the fruit to work within the short term, and will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Sandrone Luciano
Via Pugnane, 4
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.sandroneluciano.com
Sandrone Luciano Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetish cherry plum fruit supported by moderate spice and a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's fairly rull, with bright cherry plum fruit that gains direction from moderate mineral acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long plum finish. It's obviously from a hot vintage, and the acidity and fruit are a bit out of whack, but it manages a certain grace and will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Sandrone Luciano Le Vigne Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly medicinal, with eucalyptus and cedar. On the palate it's full, with moderate cherry plum fruit that gains support from plum acidity, and from smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum laced finish. It's overripe, and while it doesn't go to tannic extremes it is soft.
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Azienda Agrivinicola Sebaste
Località San Pietro delle Viole, 4
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.syllasebaste.com
Sebaste Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents mingled with some spice and underlying green leather. On the palate it's full, with moderately bright berry fruit that gains some direction from sour berry fruit acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins; it's a bit soft, and simply lacks intensity.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola G.D. Vajra
Via delle Viole, 25 - Frazione Vergne
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.gdvajra.it
Vajra G. D. Bricco delle Viole Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and roses mingled with red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, fairly sweet, and soft, with moderate plum fruit supported by greenish tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Nice, but very much a child of the vintage, and I expect more (for better or worse) from a Barolo. It will drink best with drier meats.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Lodovico e Virna Borgogno
Via Alba, 73
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.virnabarolo.it
Virna Borgogno Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is charged, with unusual (for this tasting) greenish accents laced with graphite shavings, and underlying green leather. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with moderately intense plum fruit that gains some direction from slight plum acidity, and is supported by tannins that lay a glancing burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's not what I expect of a Barolo, but it manages a certain grace, and will drink nicely with drier meats.
1 star
Virna Borgogno Preda Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and sweet too; it doesn't quite bring a tasty cake to mind, but we're headed in that direction, with underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with little in the way of fruit -- where did it go? -- supported by tannins that are quite cedary and lay a veneer over the tongue.
Heat Struck
Virna Borgogno Cannubi Boschis Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and slightly funky, with cut flowers mingled with green leather, some cedar, and with more swishing hints of tar and rosa canina. There are also slight sweet accents to it. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit that I don't think is alcohol -- there's an underlying sweetness to it that may be overripening -- supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity that provides direction, and by ample sweet tannins that owe a debt to oak, and flow into a clean smooth finish. I found the sweetness to be slightly disconcerting -- I didn't expect it in A 2001 wine -- but if you like this rich ripe style it will drink well with succulent red meats, and a because of the sweetness also stand up to slightly spicier fare as well. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Rinaldi Francesco E Figli
Via U. Sacco, 4
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 440484
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Cannubio Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, closed, nobody home. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate slightly balsamic acidity, and by tannins that flow into a clean plum finish with some green leather overtones. The nose is stopped and needs a while to develop, while the palate manages a certain grace in a hot weather key. It will drink best, in the short term, with drier meats, and I wouldn't hold it for long.
1 star
Rinaldi Francesco e Figli Le Brunate Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some spice. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with moderate plum fruit supported by some plum acidity, and moderately intense tannins that lead into a clean tannic finish. It's big, and soft, and will drink well with drier meats.
Heat Struck
Casa Molisso
Tel. 0141.951200
Casa Molisso Fossati Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic notes mingled with sweetness and some yellow peach fruit, with underlying greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, with ample cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by warm spicy tannins that lay a peppery burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean peppery finish with some peach accents. It's very much a child of the vintage, but pleasant in this context, and will drink well with drier meats.
1 star
Casa Molisso Fossati Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is clean, with a fair amount of alcohol mingling with warmth and leathery spice, and some cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry f supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are smooth, but have yet to completely shed their youth, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. Elegant in a middle of the road key, and will do nice things in the future, though it's in mid-stride now -- it will work well with a steak or stew, but will reward those with the patience to give it a few more years, and could climb to great, graceful heights.
2 stars
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello
Via Roma, 15
12060 Barolo (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 56125
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some cedar and balsam mingled with hints of green leather. On the palate it's medium bodied, with warm cherry fruit that's a little softer than usual, but not really overripe, while direction comes from lively cherry raspberry acidity, and the tannins are warm, and a touch cedary, but this is youth. It's pleasant -- refreshing, even, in a long lineup of overripe wines, and though it doesn't display the depth of a good vintage it is more true to type, and will drink well with succulent red meats. I think it will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars
Alessandria Crissante
Borgata Roggeri, n° 44 Santa Maria
12064 - La Morra (Cn)
Tel: +39 0173 - 50834
Alessandria Crissante Roggeri Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. I wonder if it's corked, but a fellow taster says brown sugar, and he's right, with some cedary accents. In any case not what one expects from a Barolo. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with moderate cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly green tannic finish with slight almost apple skin overtones. It's a big, soft wine, and as such reflects the vintage.
1 star
Bocchino Eugenio
Frazione Santa Maria Serra, 96a
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.eugeniobocchino.it
Bocchino Eugenio La Serra Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and spice mingled with slight greenish accents and hints of leaf tobacco. Mature for a 2003. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright slightly sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity that has warm balsamic accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with balsamic notes. It's pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though softer than one would normally expect, displays pleasing grace, and will drink nicely with not too fatty red meats. I wouldn't hold it for long, but it's pleasant now and has a fair amount to say.
2 stars
Bocchino Eugenio Lu Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is musty -- not corked, but not clean either, with some spice and chemical accents. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that flow into a fairly clean finish. Big, soft, and a touch thin; it comes across as a empty because the fruit doesn't fill the structure.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio
Frazione Annunziata - Borgata Ciotto, 63
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.boviogianfranco.com
Bovio Gianfranco Vigna Gattera Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is eye-opening, with wet green leather of a sort I associate with more mature wines mingled with some leaf tobacco, again of more mature wines, with some balsamic notes and hot iron as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate minerality and leather -- there's not really fruit -- supported by smooth sweet tannins. It's old before its time, and brings to mind a much older wine, but without the vibrancy that good well aged Barolo displays. A child of the vintage, and that is about all own can say.
Heat Struck
Bovio Gianfranco Bricco Parussi Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim The bouquet is elegant, with slightly mentholated green leather supported by some spice and warmth, and underlying acidity, while there are also hints of dried flowers, and, with more swishing, sweetness. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by spicy, peppery tannins more than acidity, and by a degree of sweetness that adds fullness, and it all flows into a clean peppery berry fruit finish that gradually reveals tart acidic warmth as the fruit fades. It's elegant, but gives an impression of being in mid stride, and though it will drink well now with succulent red meats, especially if you like this slightly more lavish, sweeter style, I might be tempted to give it a few more years to come together and get its bearings.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cascina Ballarin di Viberti Luigi & Figli
Fraz. Annunziata, 115
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.cascinaballarin.it
Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy and greenish, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and peppery tannins that flow into a peppery finish. It's big, and fairly soft, and as such reflects the vintage, though it does have enough backbone to stand up to light stews or simple grilled meats.
1 star
Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cool greenish spice alcohol, and pleasant berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly vegetal berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by tannins that have a dry almost sandalwood feel to them; it's pleasant, and will drink well with drier red meats served with gravies, though I'm not sure I would keep it for very long.
1 star
Cascina Casanova
Frazione Madonna di Como, 48
12051 Alba (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 33716
Cascina Casanova La Serra Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with spice and some tart herbal acidity mingled with spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with unusual mentholated red berry fruit -- likely wood-fruit interaction -- by supported warm acidity and clean, slightly greenish tannins whose greenness is again a wood-fruit interaction, and it flows into a clean tannic finish. A child of the vintage, with a little more depth than some, though the greenish accents are a little much, and it will drink well with succulent, not too fatty red meats.
1 star
Michele Chiarlo Azienda Vitivinicola
Strada Nizza-Canelli, 99
14042 Calamandrana (AT)
http://www.chiarlo.it
Chiarlo Michele Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2003
Leathery almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and rather wild, with animal tang -- wet stable straw -- mingled with balsam and some acidity, with savory accents as well. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with fairly mineral structure -- there's not much fruit supported by spicy peppery tannins that flow into a clean peppery finish. It's pleasant, and fairly harmonious, though I'd have liked a richer fruit component than I found. It's a child of the vintage, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with simple not too fatty red meats.
1 star
Chiarlo Michele Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some greenish accents. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate plum fruit supported by some plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum-mineral finish.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Giovanni Corino
Fraz. Annunziata, 24
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 50715
Corino Giovanni Vigna Giachini Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and candied fruit overtones that are a derivative of wood. On the palate it's full, fairly sweet, and soft, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from some plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum acidity-laced finish that's not too long. Fairly direct, in a hot, overripe key.
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Corino Giovanni Vigneto Arborina Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish herbal notes mingled with peppery spice and some rhubarb. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample plum berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by clean slightly peppery tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish.
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Corino Renato
Frazione Annunziata Pozzo 49/A
12064 La Morra (CN)
Corino Renato Rocche Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some rhubarb and warmth mingled with greenish accents and hints of marzipan. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample cherry plum fruit that has a lax feel to it, and flows into a fairly quick plum finish. It's lacking in richness.
Heat Struck
Dosio
Frazione Serradenari, 6
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 50677
Dosio Vigneti Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some greenish accents mingled with green leather and yellow peach with underlying spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly sweet red berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's a deft expression of a hot vintage, and nowhere near as overripe as many; it will drink well with red meats that aren't too fatty, and will age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars
Eredi di Aurelio Settimo
Fraz. Annunziata, 30
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.aureliosettimo.com
Eredi di Settimo Aurelio Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with vegetal accents and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate plum fruit supported by some acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. A child of the vintage, with considerable heat that has knocked down the acidity and softened the fruit.
Heat Struck
Eredi di Settimo Aurelio Rocche Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish with oaky accents and spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly sweet plum fruit supported by clean plum acidity that isn't really marked, but is sufficient to support the wine, and by ample sweet tannins that have slight leathery overtones and flow into a clean plum finish. It's big, and soft, and as such is a child of the vintage, but it does display a certain grace. Drink it with drier meats.
2 stars
Fratelli Ferrero di Renato Ferrero
Frazione Annunziata, 12
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.baroloferrero.com
Ferrero Fratelli Manzoni Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and frankly greenish, with cedar accents that add depth, and with more swishing hot iron. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate brown sugar-laced plum fruit that gains direction from moderate acidity, and flows into a warm tannic finish with tart acidic overtones. Wood overshadows all.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Gagliasso Mario
Borgata Torriglione, 7
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.gagliassovini.it
Gagliasso Mario Torriglione Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some leathery accents and moderate fruit. On the palate it's full, with brighter than expected red berry fruit supported by slight acidity and by smooth sweet tannins; the heat has softened it considerably, and it flows into a clean slightly leathery finish. It's pleasant, enough, but I would have expected more complexity of a Barolo than I found.
1 star
Gagliasso Mario Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly greenish, with moderate berry fruit acidity laced with rhubarb and spice that has greenish accents. On the palate it's full, sweet, and soft, with brown sugar-laced fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that have a warm burr to them. I'd have liked greater depth than I found, and the heat has softened it considerably.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso di Federico Grasso
Località Cascina Luciani, 112
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 50322
Grasso Silvio Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with hot iron and spice, and underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with cherry plum fruit that's fairly soft supported by moderate acidity and clean smooth tannins that carry into a fairly long tannic finish. It's better than many, but reflects the vintage --especially in the softness of the fruit and the acidity.
2 stars
Azienda Vitivinicola Grimaldi Luigino
Via Groppone, 1 - Fraz. Valle Talloria
12055 Diano d'Alba (CN)
http://www.grimaldivini.com
Grimaldi Luigino Vigna San Biagio Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with distinctly greenish accents laced with cedar and spice; not much fruit appears. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by greenish herbal spicy acidity and ample sweet tannins; the overall impression is rich but a bit disjointed, with various elements that work together but don't really harmonize. It's not typical of Barolo, but will drink well with simple red meats
1 star
Marengo Mario
Via XX Settembre 32
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 017350127
Marengo Mario Brunate Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetish floral accents mingled with warm spice and some pungent notes. On the palate it's ample and sweet with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish. It's direct, and soft, but the fruit isn't as overripe as it is in some cases, and it will drink well with drier meats.
1 star
Mauro Molino
Borgata Gancia, 111 - Frazione Annunziata
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 50814
Molino Mauro Conca Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is almost medicinal, with some sea salt and some savory overtones. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some clean acidity, and by tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish. Soft, and ample, and a child of the vintage.
Heat Struck
Molino Mauro Gallinotto Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with greenish accents and some wet green leather mingled with spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft sweet tannins supporting cherry plum fruit. A decidedly lax expression of Barolo.
Heat Struck
Azienda Agricola Oberto Marco
Frazione Santa Maria, 1
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 50217
Oberto Marco Vigneti Roggeri, Bricco San Biagio, Rive Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and frankly animal, with horse hair and wet stable straw mingled with hot savory accents. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with brown-sugar-laced generic fruit supported by tannins that lay a veneer over the tongue. Given the nose, I expected greater depth than I found.
Heat Struck
Oberto Marco Roggeri Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and clean herbal acidity. Bracing. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness and clean acidity, while the tannic structure is fairly deft, and carries into a clean finish. It's a nice expression of the vintage, though a bit soft and slightly sweet, but not too overripe, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Poderi Marcarini
Piazza Martiri, 2
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.marcarini.it
Poderi Marcarini Brunate Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with herbals notes and some green leather, and warm balsamic overtones, but not much fruit in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate plum fruit supported by some plum laced acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum finish. It's overripe, but manages a degree of grace, and will drink well with drier meats.
1 star
Poderi Marcarini La Serra Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green leather and spice mingled with some plum fruit and slight hints of white glue. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly intense cherry fruit that gains direction from leathery acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean soft berry fruit finish. It's a child of the vintage, but displays a certain grace in an airy, almost cheeky key, and will drink well with drier meats. Nice now, though I wouldn't hold it for long.
2 stars
Ratti Renato - Antiche Cantine dell'Abbazia dell'Annunziata
Frazione Annunziata, 7
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.renatoratti.com
Renato Ratti Marcenasco Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep garnet ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is vinous, with berry fruit shot through with alcohol and mint, and some hints of graphite shavings and tomato vine. Intense and pleasant. On the palate it's full and soft, with clean red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins. It's clearly from a hot vintage, but holds together well and will age nicely for a number of years. Young.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola F.lli Revello
Frazione Annunziata,103
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.revellofratelli.com
Revello Fratelli Vigna Conca Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is herbal, with greenish accents and some spice, with underlying yellow peaches. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich peach-laced fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that lay an angry veneer over the tongue, and flow into a strong tannic finish. It's not inviting, and dries out the tongue.
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Revello Fratelli Vigna Giachini Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and greenish accents. The bouquet is spicy, with a fair amount of acidity, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a clean very dry tannic finish with some savory overtones.
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Azienda Agricola Rocche Costamagna
Via Vittorio Emanuele, 8
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.rocchecostamagna.it
Rocche Costamagna Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol and some spice mingled with greenish accents and some acidity. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth with moderate plum fruit supported by some acidity, and by angry tannins that lay a cedary veneer over the tongue and continue into a hot peppery finish. I'd have liked more fruit than I found; it's disjointed.
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Rocche Costamagna Bricco Francesco Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with some dusky bitter accents that bring dappled shade to mind, together with balsamic notes and some green leather. On the palate it's ample and soft with fairly sweet berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that lay a glancing cover over the tongue, and flow into a clean very tannic finish. It's a child of the vintage, bolstered by angry young tannins, and I found myself wanting greater richness and smoothness than I found; as it stands it's rather harsh.
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Azienda Agricola Stroppiana Oreste di Stroppiana Dario
Fraz. Rivalta S. Giacomo, 6
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173509419
Stroppiana Oreste Vigna San Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, with some greenish accents that emerge with insistent swishing, but not much else other than some alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense generic fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by glancing tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish with tannic underpinning that resolves into warmth. It's pleasant within the context of the vintage, but falls short of the mark where Barolo is concerned.
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Stroppiana Oreste Gabutti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with leathery accents and some metallic overtones mingled with spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and sweet with moderate plum fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm bitter veneer over the tongue, and flow into a clean tannic finish. I'd have liked more fruit, and more acidity to guide it.
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Tenuta L'Illuminata
Località S.Anna, 30
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 02 72094585
Tenuta L'Illuminata Tebavio Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some acidity and hints of green leather mingled with spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins; the palate was a pleasant surprise because I expected it to be riper that it is, whereas the fruit is more in the cherry than the plum spectrum. It is a child of the vintage, but displays a certain grace, and will drink well in the sort term with succulent, not too fatty red meats.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Mauro Veglio
Frazione Annunziata - Cascina Nuova, 50
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 509212
Veglio Mauro Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by clean tannins that lay a warm cedar veneer over the palate, and flow into an angry tannic finish. It's disjointed, and the anger of the tannins seems excessive.
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Veglio Mauro Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with yellow peach and sweetness mingled with some warmth and quite a bit of spice. On the palate it's unexpectedly bitter, with moderate fruit supported by sweet accents (the bitterness is tannic) and slight acidity that flows into a clean finish. I'd have liked more richness and direction tan it displays.
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Agriviticola Gianni Voerzio
Strada Loreto, 1
12064 La Morra (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 509194
Voerzio Giovanni La Serra Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. It looks like a different vintage. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit mingled with greenish accents and a fair amount of spice with some sea salt as well, and slightly balsamic hardwood ash. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour red currant acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's a pleasant change of pace, and though it does reveal some hot weather characteristics -- the fruit isn't as intense as it would be in a normal year -- it will drink quite well wit succulent red meats and will hold nicely for 3-5 years. Even in a difficult vintage someone emerges, and this is it.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Saglietti Flavio
Località Bricco del Dente, 52
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.sagliettiflavio.it
Saglietti Flavio Brunate Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with smoky accents mingled with some balsam and spice. On the palate it's bitter, with bitter accents and simply doesn't grab.
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Saglietti Flavio Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and orange almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with considerable alcohol and some spice mingled with greenish accents. On the palate it's full and soft, with brown sugar laced acidity more than fruit, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a braon sugar finish. The fruit is simply absent -- gone, surrendering to sweetness and softness.
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Azienda Agricola Abbona di Abbona Marziano & C.
Via Torino, 240
12063 Dogliani (CN)
http://www.abbona.com
Abbona Marziano Terlo Ravera Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetish red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents, spice and hints of leather. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate tart red berry fruit that is supported by slight acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet finish. It's soft, with quite a bit of alcohol, and as such is a child of the vintage; I'd have liked greater richness overtones the fruit, which is a bit tired.
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Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with yellow peaches mingled with spice and herbal accents, and an underlying impression of sweetness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It manages a degree of grace in an overripe key, and will drink well with drier meats.
1 star
Abbona Marziano Cerviano Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and some cedar mingled with some greenish accents.. On the palate it's it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and sweetness that confers softness, as well as by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean almost plum-laced finish. It's a touch overripe, and the fruit has been to a degree dried out by wood.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Elvio Cogno
Via Ravera, 2
12060 Novello (CN)
http://www.elviocogno.com
Cogno Elvio Ravera Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vinous notes mingled with warm spice and a fair amount of alcohol, and some underlying berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour finish with tannic underpinning. It has that softness that comes from a hot vintage, but is also graceful, and will drink nicely with red meats. worth seeking out, though I wouldn't age it too long. Some do stand out even in very difficult vintages.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Piazzo Armando
Frazione S.Rocco Seno D'Elvio, 31
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.piazzo.it
Piazzo Armando Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet moderately intense and a bit overripe, with warm jammy fruit that has some leathery accents and some spice. On the palate it's ample and soft with moderate red berry fruit supported by smooth glancing tannins, while there's almost no acidity; it would spread at random were there not slight bitterness to provide direction Very much a child of the vintage.
1 star
Piazzo Armando Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep almandine with slightly brownish almandine reflections, ad almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slight greenish accents mingled with spice and fairly bright berry fruit, with some green leather as well. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with the softness coming from both moderation in the acidity and slight sweetness, while the fruit is fairly dry, and it flows into a dry fairly tannic finish. I'd have expected more from a Barolo riserva.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Addari Loredana Podere Ruggeri Corsini
Località Bussia Corsini, n° 106
12065 - Monforte d'Alba (Cn)
Tel: 0173 - 78625 340
Addari Loredana Podere Ruggeri Corsini Corsini Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with alcohol and green leather mingled with spice and some rhubarb. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate minerality more than fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while the acidity is also quite low.
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Azienda Agricola Fratelli Alessandria
Via Beato Valfrè, 59
12060 Verduno (CN)
http://www.fratellialessandria.it
Alessandria Fratelli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, and closed, with some alcohol and spice, with slight leathery accents mingled with plum. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with brown sugar-laced plum fruit supported by warm slightly balsamic acidity and by ample tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean warm finish. It's big, and quite soft. Better definition and tightness would have been nice.
1 star
Alessandria Fratelli Monvigliero Barolo DOCG 2003
Lively black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some sweetness. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with green-tinged sour berry fruit that has some jammy overtones, supported by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour finish with tannic underpinning. Because of its softness it will drink well with drier meats.
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Alessandria Gianfranco
Località Manzoni, 13
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.gianfrancoalessandria.com
Alessandria Gianfranco Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly closed, with alcohol and slight spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and soft, with moderate mineral fruit supported by tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue. It's cavernous because the fruit doesn't fill the structure.
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Alessandria Gianfranco San Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some mineral acidity. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample and flat, with minerality supported by tannins that have a splintery feel to them and flow into a clean tannic finish. Again, not much fruit.
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Bolmida Silvano
Località Bussia, 30
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.silvanobolmida.com
Bolmida Silvano Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some vegetal acidity; it would be direct in a more normal vintage but is almost refreshing here. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by pleasant greenish acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and sweet, flowing into a clean warm tannic finish. It will drink well with white meats served with rich gravies.
2 stars
Bolmida Silvano Vigne dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep slightly cloudy almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green leather mingled with plum fruit and some vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with mineral-laced leathery plum fruit supported by bitter tannins that lay a veneer over the tongue and flow into a clean bitter finish with lasting savory accents. It's soft, and overripe, but has character and I found it growing upon me. It will drink well with drier meats.
2 stars
Bolmida Silvano Bussia Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cocoa and some herbal notes mingled with alcohol and spice. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich tart berry fruit supported by warm balsamic acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean warm finish. It's ample, and richer in fruit on the palate than I had expected from the nose, and quite fresh; it will drink nicely now with succulent red meats, and though it also has the legs to age well for many years, i might be tempted to drink it sooner to enjoy its freshness. One of those wines you hate to pour out at a tasting.
90
Costa Di Bussia - Tenuta Arnulfo
Località Bussia, 26
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.costadibussia.com
Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich plum fruit supported by greenish spice and a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit that gains direction from clean plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's pleasant in a hot weather key, and softer than Barolo usually is, but will drink nicely with white meats.
2 stars
Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Campo dei Buoi Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some spice and slight greenish accents; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins, while there isn't much acidity at all, and as a result it doesn't have the direction I would have liked. Nor will it be too long lived, I think.
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Manzone Giovanni - Azienda Agricola Ciabot del Preve
Via Castelletto, 9
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.manzonegiovanni.com
Manzone Giovanni Le Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2003
Depe black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is greenish, with moderate spice and some leathery accents, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate plum fruit supported by slight acidity, and by tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's soft, and though large the size comes fome from tannins and minerality than fruit.
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Monti
Località San Sebastiano, 39
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.paolomonti.com
Monti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit that has greenish vegetal accents and warm spice mingled with something that brings scented candles to mind. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by greenish tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's not as bright as I'd have expected from the nose, and the acidity is a bit flat, making the wine settle at the waterline, as it were.
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Monti Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with only moderate fruit and some bitter, almost pungent accents. On the palate it's ample and full, with moderate generic fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that lay a warm veneer over the tongue, and flow into a distinctly tannic finish. It's lacking in fruit.
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Podere Rocche Dei Manzoni
Località Manzoni Soprani, 3
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.rocchedeimanzoni.it
Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Rocche Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with quite a bit of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by tongue bending tannins that put down and angry veneer. Loads of oak to compensate for Nature's stinginess.
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Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft greenish accents mingled with red berry fruit and warmth. Pleasant to sniff, and a fair amount going on. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with bright berry fruit supported bouquet clean slightly greenish berry fruit acidity and fairly rich tannins; there's also slight sweetness that adds depth and richness to the fruit. Pleasant, in a fairly international key, and will drink quite well now with roasts or stews, though it also has the wherewithal to age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
90
Poderi Colla
San Rocco Seno d'Elvio, 82
10051 Alba (CN)
http://www.podericolla.it
Poderi Colla Dardi le Rose Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky with some balsamic accents and slight acidity mingled with alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a tannic finish with some fruit overtones. Big, but more tannic than fruit driven.
1 star
Prunotto
Località San Cassiano, 4/G
12051 Alba (CN)
http://www.prunotto.it
Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep slightly cloudy almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and slight bitter cedar. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly sweet red berry fruit supported by clean acidity, and by smooth ample tannins that flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish with peppery accents. It's pleasant, in a rather overripe key, and softer than one would expect a Barolo to be, but achieves a certain grace, and will drink well with drier meats or light stews.
2 stars
Prunotto Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and spicy, with hardwood ash mingling with greenish notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate fruit -- plum more than cherry -- that fains direction from slight acidity, and is supported by clean tannins that flow into a clean slightly acidic mineral finish. It is harmonious in a rather mineral way, and will drink nicely now with drier meats, htough I don't think I would age it for too long.
1 star
Saffirio Josetta
Frazione Castelletto, 32
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 78660
Saffirio Josetta Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green leather mingled with ripe berry fruit that gains in intensity with swishing, while there are also some eucalyptus accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with a bit less fruit than I expected, though there is some -- red berry more than plum -- and bright almost citric acidity than works with the tannins, flowing into a fairly bright finish. A pity the fruit's not more pronounced.
1 star
Seghesio F.lli
Località Castelletto, 19
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 78108
Seghesio Fratelli Vigneto la Villa Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some vegetal notes mingled with warm spice and slight wood smoke. Not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with ample plum cherry fruit supported by tart acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. It's overripe, but displays a certain grace and richness of fruit, and will drink nicely with drier meats or light stews.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Tenuta Rocca
Località Ornati, 19
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.tenutarocca.com
Tenuta Rocca Barolo DOCG 2003
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky, with some stewed berry fruit accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with slightly funky bitter accents that carry into the finish, which is decidedly tannic. I'd have liked richer, better defined fruit.
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Tenuta Rocca Vigna San Pietro Barolo DOCG 2003
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with warm red berry fruit mingled with balsamic notes and some cedar, and underlying greenish spice. On the palate it's ample and sweeter than I expected, with jammy slightly balsamic berry fruit that has a slightly tired feel to it, supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet tannic finish with unusual pungent cut flower accents. Something happened, and the fermentation may have gotten stuck on them. This said, with respect to many of the others it has more character and depth.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun
Loc. Bussia, 62
12065 Monforte d'Alba (CN)
http://www.francoconterno.it
Conterno Franco Cascina Sciulin Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mineral accents and some hot iron mingling with alcohol, spice, and plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from tart red berry fruit acidity, while fullness comes from tannins and sweetness, and it flows into a fairly long tart finish. Pleasant in a decidedly overripe soft key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style, and it is (like just about all 2003 wines) atypical for a Barolo.
2 stars
Conterno Franco Cascina Sciulun Bussia Munie Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warmth and leathery accents mingled with spice, and some penetrating greenish notes as well. On the palate it's fairly intense, with bright rhubarb-laced fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish with sweetish brown sugar overtones and hints of balsam. It's still quite young, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings and decide what it wants to do as a grownup. In short, promising, but not there yet.
2 stars
Poderi e Cantine Fratelli Oddero
Frazione Santa Maria, 28
12064 La Morra (CN)
http://www.odderofratelli.it
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Bussia Soprana Vigna Mondoca Barolo DOCG 2003
Slightly cloudy almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with hardwood ash and spice mingled with alcohol and pungency. On the palate it's mineral, with fairly smooth tannins but little in the way of fruit, though there is some sweetness in the finish.
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Giordano Ferdinando
Via Cane Guido, 47 bis
12050 Alba (CN)
http://www.giordanovini.it
Giordano Ferdinando Radioso Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit wild, with stable straw and greenish acidity mingled with alcoholic warmth, and there are also savory accents. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with plum fruit that gains direction from sweetish plum acidity, while the supporting tannins are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean spicy warm finish. It's pleasant enough in a big, frankly overripe key, and will drink well now with drier meats; because of it sweetness it might also be a bet with spicier fare. You have to like the style, however, and I wouldn't age it for long.
1 star
Terre Del Barolo
Via Alba-Barolo, 5
12060 Castiglione Falletto (CN)
http://www.terredelbarolo.com
Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strong greenish vegetal accents mingled with spice and green leather. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Pleasant in an ample hot vintage key, and though ripe not as overripe as many; it will drink well with drier meats, though I wouldn't keep it for too long.
2 stars
Borgogno - Giacomo Borgogno & Figli
Via Gioberti, 1
12060 Barolo (CN)
http://www.borgogno-wine.com
Borgogno Giacomo e Figli Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly charged, with green leather and warm almost pungent acidity supported by underlying vegetal-laced red berry fruit. Very much alive. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with powerful slightly sour cherry fruit supported by bright citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright citric finish. It's fairly direct -- what you see is what there is -- and to be frank I wouldn't sip it far from the table, at least now. However it will go quite well with succulent meats, in particular hearty roasts or stews that will play off its acidity and tannic structure quite nicely. Expect it overtones age nicely for many years.
2 stars
Sarotto Roberto
Via Ronconuovo, 13
12050 Neviglie (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 630228
Sarotto Roberto Audace Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright red berry fruit laced with slightly vegetal acidity and yellow peach accents that provide vitality and depth, with some underlying jammy notes as well. Graceful in a youthful, rather opulent key, and though it doesn't bring a starlet in a glass to mind we're headed in that direction. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet finish; it's a bit sweeter overall than I might have expected, and also rather brash; it brings a cute wide-eyed teen to mind, and if you prefer the more traditional style it perhaps won't work for you. If you instead prefer brighter richer wines it will work well with succulent red meats or hearty stews, and has the capacity to age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Viberti Giovanni
Via delle Viole, 30 - Frazione Vergne
12060 Barolo (CN)
Tel: +39 0173 56192
Viberti Giovanni Buon Padre Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather haunting, with saddle leather and warmth supported by slight tart accents and clean spice. Extremely harmonious, in a fairly traditional key, and though it's quick to write it invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's rich, with delicate red berry fruit supported by clean moderately intense sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a steely velvetiness to them, and flow into a clean tannic finish. Quite traditional in feel, and will drink well with succulent red meats, and age well for many years.
90
Viberti Giovanni La Volta Barolo Riserva DOCG 2001
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leathery accents mingled with some rosa canina and spice, while support comes from some mineral acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean slightly leathery acidity and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. Elegant, and quite young; it will drink well now with a hearty roast or stew, but also has the leg to age well for many years, in a fairly middle-of-the-road key. I found it growing upon me.
88-90
Almost Wordless Wednesday: Between Here And There
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I took this shot during the Pelleginaggio Artusiano in the spring of 2011.
The mirror is somewhere between Castrocaro Terme and Portico di Romagna (on
the ...
12 years ago
