Carmignano: the 2009 Vintage Presentation

Carmignano is one of the smallest Italian appellations. It is also one of the oldest: Cosimo III De'Medici recognized it in the edict with which he set the boundaries of the four best winemaking areas of Tuscany, in 1716. In terms of composition, Carmignano is, like most other Tuscan reds, based on Sangiovese. Specifically:

• Sangiovese at least 50%
• Canaiolo Nero up to 20%
• Cabernet Franc and/or Cabernet Sauvignon, from 10 to 20%
• Trebbiano Toscano, Canaiolo Bianco, and Malvasia del Chianti up to 10%
• Other red varietals authorized by the Province of Prato, up to 10%

The Cabernet merits a brief aside: It has long been grown in the area, and indeed Cosimo III, who called it Uva Francesca, planted some in his vineyards.

The vineyards are located in the Communes of Carmignano and Poggio a Caiano, on hillsides whose elevations range between 50 and 200 meters above sea level; this is lower than Chianti Classico, where the elevations range from 200 to 600 meters above sea level, and as a result daytime temperatures are warmer during the summer months. This hastens the ripening and therefore the harvest, which is usually a couple of weeks ahead of Chianti Classico's.

Carmignano is also just a few miles from the higher peaks of the Apennines, and because of this proximity it gets the night breezes, which bring temperatures down sharply, thus guaranteeing good temperature excursions that help the bouquet to develop. These mountains also bring the occasional summer thunderstorm, the rainfall from which, according to Capezzana's Count Ugo Contini Bonaccossi, helps maintain balance in the vineyards and further promotes ripening.

The maximum allowable yield for Carmignano DOCG is 8 metric tons per hectare, with a yield into wine of 70%. The basic Carmignano wine ages for 2 years, one of which in wood, prior to release, whereas Carmignano Riserva ages for 3 years, two of which in wood. The choice of wood type -- barrique, tonneau, or botte grande -- is up to the winemaker. The aging potential of Carmignano is similar to that of Chianti Classico: The basic wines are usually best when drunk 3-5 years after the harvest, though they can age much longer in exceptional vintages, while the Riserva generally ages well, for up to 15 years.

In addition to Carmignano DOCG, the region's producers also make several DOC wines. The most intriguing, from a historical standpoint, is Vin Ruspo (literally, stolen wine), a wine patterned after the wine the share-croppers used to make on the sly, by taking the last load of grapes home each day of the harvest, and keeping the juices that ran from the baskets during the night. It's a dry, fruity rosé. There is also Barco Reale, a lighter red named after a walled Medici Family hunting preserve located in Carmignano; it's designed to be drunk sooner than Carmignano, and is similar to Rosso di Montalcino in this respect. And finally, there is Vinsanto, the traditional Tuscan dessert wine made from white grapes allowed to dry on straw mats until mid-winter before they're pressed.

Before we get to the wines, a couple of words on the vintages:

Some of the whites and the Vin Ruspo are from the 2008 vintage, which was a bit weaker than the 2007 or the 2006. Pleasant, but with less depth and richness to them. The remaining whites, Vin Ruspo, Barco Reale, and some of the Carmignano are from the 2007 vintage, which is a bit more high strung than the 2006 was -- nice fruit, but also lively rather aggressive tannins, which make for brasher wines. They do drink quite well with foods, and the Carmignano also has nice aging potential. There is also 2006 Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva; 2006 was a good vintage, and the wines display lively fruit coupled with nice tannic structure and nimble acidity. They also have the potential to age nicely for a number of years, especially the Riserva wines.

The Wines, Tasted Blind on June 1 2009

Podere il Sassolo
Via di Citerna 5
Carmignano (PO)
055 870 5983

Podere il Sassolo Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Dusky ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, and vinous, with bright berry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents mingled with some savory accents. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some underlying greenish bitterness, and by mineral acidity that flows into a clean vegetal finish with underlying minerality. Simple, direct, and pleasant; it will drink well with grilled meats, light stews, and also with hearty meat or red sauced pasta dishes.
1 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deft almandine with almandine in the rim too. The bouquet is fresh, and vinous, with warm tart berry fruit acidity and some spice; there's also brambly underpinning, and it's fairly aggressive. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant in a medium bodied scrappy key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, light stews and such; it also has the acidity necessary for fried foods. A fine food wine that will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra

Fattoria Ambra Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with bright pink reflections and rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cut flowers and some greenish accents mingled with spice and mentholated notes. On the palate it's bright, with considerable minerality more than fruit, supported by spice and clean fresh tannins that flow into a slightly greenish finish.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with dusky black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and graphite shaving bitterness mingled with vegetal accents and some red berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample rather lax forest berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and moderately intense rather green tannins that flow into a long greenish finish. It is, as I said, lax; I'd have liked more tightness and definition to the acidity and the tannic structure, which accompany the fruit but don't seem to have a firm grip on where they're going.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina In Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet accents and some purple in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and some bitter pencil shavings mingled with some slight vegetal accents and forest berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich plum cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean sweet tannins that have a slightly bitter cedar laced underpinning, and flow into a fairly bitter finish. More international in style, and needs a year to settle and absorb the wood; it is more soft in style and will work well with drier meats or could be sipped by the glass. If you like the style you will enjoy it, if you're more aggressive in your tastes it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Eliziana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shavings but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly light, and dry, with moderate berry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary underpinning with lasting bitterness that carries into the finish. I found it to be lacking in fruit.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Vigne Alte Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and young, with red berry fruit supported by spice and cedar with some savory greenish accents; it gives an impression of being in the process of coming together. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has fairly strong vegetal overtones, and by smooth dusky cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean sour finish. It's young and needs time, a year at least, to get its bearings and figure out what it wants to do with itself. If it comes together well, it will age nicely for a decade or more, in a lacy key.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2002
Tawny amber tending towards Moroccan leather; it's the darkest and brownest of the vinsanti poured. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and warmth mingled with green walnut skins and some aldehydes, also greenish notes and shellac, while there is underlying dried fruit, in particular dates. On the palate it's ample, with rich brown sugar sweetness supported by deft dried apricot acidity that flows into a long clean walnut skin laced finish with lasting warmth and brown sugar sweetness underpinning. Pleasant, and will be nice with friends far from the table, or with a book by the fire. It has a lot to say.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bacchereto
Fattoria di Bacchereto Terre a Mano Carmignano DOCG 2007
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and some cedar, with underlying peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice in a rather scrappy key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smoother than I expected, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats, light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Versatile, and will go quickly; Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Podere Allocco
Podere Allocco Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is Fairly rich, with greenish accents and vegetal notes, mingled with spice, some mentholated balsam, and warmth; with more swishing some berry fruit also emerges, but the basic balsamic warm vegetal cast continues. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich slightly greenish cherry plum fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a smooth slightly greenish berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. Direct, and a touch duskier than I would have liked, though it will drink well with drier meats and similar; I'd also be tempted to serve it with meatballs or an Italian meatloaf.
1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum-laced red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of bitterness; with swishing the petroleum resolves into more balsamic notes, and there's a brooding quality to it. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity, and by tannins that are a little thinner than I might have expected, and flow into a fresh bitter berry fruit finish. It will drink well with foods, and is pleasant in a direct, upfront sort of way. I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
1 star

Fattoria di Artimino
Fattoria Artimino Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some underbrush; there's less fruit than in some of the others. On the palate it's bright, with tart acidity and moderate berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and spice, flows into clean bright berry fruit finish.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up savory accents and some underbrush mingled with minerality and vegetal notes; not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with light rather tart berry fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and tannins that are light and glancing, and flow into a clean fairly dry bitter finish. It's not as fruit driven as some -- less concentration, less richness -- but because of its acidity will work well with succulent grilled meats along the lines of ribs, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly in the proper setting.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Lively ruby with black reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively tart berry fruit supported by clean greenish accents andspice; there's a cheeky welcoming quality to it, and it is pleasant to sniff, in a lively zesty key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright cherry red currant finish with vegetal underpinning and some tannic accents. A lark of a wine, which will be quite nice with simple first course dishes, and also work well as an aperitif with meat based antipasti, or at a cookout Expect it overtones go quickly, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Fattoria Artimino Vigna Grumarello Carmignano DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky cedar and some blackish accents, supported by savory notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense, with ample rather generic berry fruit supported by some greenish brambly acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly soft bitter finish with brambly underpinning. It's a bit settled, and the structure is carrying things more than the fruit.
1 star

Fattoria Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and extremely vegetal, with a mixture of artichoke and asparagus greenness -- beyond bell pepper -- underlain by mineral graphite bitterness. Eye opening. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense vegetal laced berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity -- enough to provide direction -- and by smooth sweet tannins that fade more than flow into the finish, which declines, with vegetal accents. It seems to be from a cooler vintage, and one has the impression that the grapes didn't ripen as well as they might have. This said, if you like this sort of intensely vegetal wine, it does display a certain grace.
2 stars

Fattoriadi Artimino Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2005
Pale tawny amber with apricot reflections and rim with some hints of gold. The bouquet is intense, with oatmeal and brown sugar mingled with dates and some dried figs, also walnut skins and some spice supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some dried fruit, in particular apricots, and saddle leather. Considerable concentration and quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I might have expected from the some, with fairly rich brown sugar and oatmeal supported by walnut skin bitterness that advances deliberately; it brings to mind a whale flowing below the surface, and flows into a fairly long, warm, but not really acidic finish with brown sugar and date sweetness laced with some walnut skin savory bitterness. It's laxer than some Vinsanti, and also more brooding, but does have a story to tell, and if you like vinsanto you'll find it interesting.
2 stars

Tenuta La Borriana
Tenuta La Borriana Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some pungent cut flowers and moderate mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample, with sour berry fruit supported by vegetal minerality and spice, and by dusky tannins that flow into a warm dusky finish with some greenish accents. It's a bit more aggressive than some of the rosati, and if you like the style it will work well wit cold cuts, or as an aperitif, or with white meats.
1 star

Tenuta La Borriana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bitter berry fruit supported by greenish accents and graphite shavings, and also some bitter spice that has spice overripe accents. On the palate it's bright, with tarter, more sour than expected cherry fruit supported by vegetal bitterness and some peppery spice, also some cedar, which flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Nose and palate are going in slightly different directions, though the overall impression is successful; it will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables; it's a wine that won't work as well if you like smooth well polished wines, but will go nicely with foods.
2 stars

Tenuta La Borriana Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky berry fruit supported by some cedar and also lacquer; the other things are more evident than the fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderate sour berry fruit --cherry and some black currant -- supported by some berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a dusky graphite burr, and flow into a bitter finish. It's quite young, and needs another year for the tannins to finish folding in; this said, I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit, because the bitterness of the tannins overshadows things. It will in any case drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and is fairly up front.
1 star

Podere Piaggia
Via Cegoli 47
59016 Poggio a Caiano
Tel 055/8705363

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some spice with hints of dried mushrooms as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright, ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity laced with bitterness and underbrush, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish that's also long. Nice, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews now, while also having the legs to age well for 6-10 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and fairly intense berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar. It's quite young, and needs another year. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean dusky berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that gain definition from dusky graphite bitterness, and flow into a clean fresh cherry fruit finish with underlying tannic bitterness. It's quite young, a child in the woods, and needs another couple of years for things to come together, at which point it will be graceful in a rich international key, and also age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style, and even if you're more traditionally minded you'll find things to think about.
2 stars

Piaggia Poggio de'Colli IGT Toscana 2007
This is a Cabernet Franc
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and underbrush, with underlying graphite shavings. Nice balance and rich, in a youthful key; it's clearly still coming together and developing. On the palate it's ample, with rich smooth berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish; it's not quite a starlet in a glass but definitely more voluptuous in style than most of the wines from this area, and if you like this rich fruit driven style you will enjoy it. Considerably, and it will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete
Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy graphite laced berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and a certain coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. Fairly direct, too. On the palate it's ample, with soft ripe cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderately intense vegetal acidity that flow into a tart to sour finish. It's direct, and an easy to drink simple wine that will work well with meat based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews; this said, a little more tightness to the acidity would have been nice.
1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit laced with petroleum at first swish, which opens into vegetal-balsamic accents, with underlying acidity and some pencil shavings as well, also rubber. Quite young, but interesting. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by citric laced berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's a good food wine that will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats, including chicken with the skin, and also with light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit with slight vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly languid, with cherry fruit supported by sour cherry and currant acidity that flows into a clean tart finish with up bitterness; the tannins are fairly smooth, though there is a slight cedar overlay to them. It's ample, in a fairly direct key, and though I generally prefer wines that are tighter and more closely defined, it will drink well with succulent grilled meats. Because of its relative softness I'm not sure how long it will age for.
1 star

Pratesi
Pratesi Locorosso Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky bitterness and vegetal accents mingled with graphite shavings and ripe bitterness, also plum cherry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish berry fruit finish with lasting bitterness. Pleasant, in a direct key, and will work quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews. What you see is what you get, and it will go quickly with foods.
2 stars

Pratesi Vigna di Carmio Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with violet reflections and purple cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and berry fruit; the interaction brings the glue I used to use to assemble models to mind, and there is also some peppery underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderate dusky berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a dusky cedary bitterness to them, and by slight acidity that flows into a bitter finish. I'd have liked greater concentration of fruit.
1 star

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2006
A Bordeaux blend, 50 Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 Cabernet Franc and 40 Merlot
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring up some pencil shavings and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with considerable bitterness and some sour accents, but, again, less fruit than I would have liked. Oak carries it.
1 star

Fattoria Le Ginestre
Fattoria Le Ginestre Rosato di Carmignano Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is distinctly green, with vegetal accents and some spice supported by berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. More charged and much more vegetal than some. On the palate it's ample and bright, with lively tart red currant fruit supported by brisk acidity and light tannins that flow into a tart finish. Pleasing in a cheeky sort of way, and will be quite nicely with meat based risotti, cold cuts, and similar, will also be a good cookout wine.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Ginestre Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with vegetal accents and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight splintery greenish burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly aggressive key, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats, e.g. spare ribs or chicken with the skin, or lamb chops, and will also work nicely with fried meats and vegetables. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it has quite a bit to say.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Ginestre Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and bitter, with leathery accents and spice mingled with greenish notes and charcoal; there's also a degree of artichoke vegetal accents in the bitterness. Not much fruit however. On the palate it's ample, with richer than expected rather lithe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by languid black currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. The nose is behind the palate, which is pleasant in a scrappy key but a little lighter than I might have hoped for. I would give the nose a year to catch up, and drink it with meat based pasta dishes, lesser grilled meats, or perhaps rich legume based dishes along the lines of fagioli all'uccelletoo, tomatoey beans with sausages.
1 star

Fattoria Le Ginestre Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2003
Pale tawny amber with dried apricot reflections and leathery slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is intense, with dried walnut -- the wood more than the nut -- supported by spice and graphite shavings, hints of eraser, and also a fair amount of alcohol. Unusual, but one of Vinasnto's hallmarks is its variability. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich brown sugar sweetness laced with walnut skin bitterness that has some dried leather accents, and is supported by moderate acidity that flows into a warm sweet brown sugar finish with tart, almost smoky overtones. It's pleasant, though a vinsanto more for lovers of vinsanto than those who have little experience with the genre; if you are willing to listen it does have a tale to tell, but you have to be willing to sit and give it time.
2 stars

Castelvecchio
Castelvecchio Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour red currant fruit supported by some greenish accents and mentholated spice. Pleasant and lively. On the palate it's rich, with deft cherry red currant fruit supported by lively lemony currant acidity, and by slight, smooth, sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. Graceful, and will work well as an aperitif or with cold cuts, and also with hearty meat based risotti, white meats, and similar. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly vegetal, with greenish accents and cut hay mingled with some brambly notes and slight cedar, also savory accents and bitterness. On the palate it's ample, with bright slightly greenish cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brisk slightly vegetal acidity that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a bright fruit driven key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats -- it will be nice at a cookout --or light stews, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly if you like the style, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by dusky cedar and hardwood ash. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by bright berry fruit acidity, which leads into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Vin Santo di Carmignano DOCG 2005
Pale tawny amber with dried apricot reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable alcohol and bitter green walnut skin, what's called mallo di noce in Italian, laced with alcohol and some greenish accents, and underlying aldehydes and hints of green watermelon rind. Quite a bit going on in a more youthful key that brings tightly drawn muscles to mind. On the palate it's full, with rich languid bitter walnut fruit supported by some sweetness, and by bright walnut acidity that flows into a long bitter walnut finish with considerable warmth. A more bitter rendition of vinsanto, and though it is sweet, the bitterness does remain, with warmth, and carries at length. It's more particular and more demanding, a style that requires the attention of the drinker, and is therefore more aimed at the vinsanto fan than some others.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana
Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2006
Brassy yellow with lemon peel reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with acidity and butterscotch mingled with spice and some greenish accents; it's quite charged, and if you like the style, which is rather extreme, it is pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with rich minerality laced with greenish accents and some tart lemony fruit that flows into a clean fairly rich greenish finish; the palate reflects the nose and there is a degree of languidity to it; it's an extreme wine, with quite a bit of oak and much concentration, and you have to like the style to enjoy it. If you don't it won't work as well for you. Takes no quarter.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Ruspo DOCG 2008
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively dusky raspberry fruit supported by greenish accents and some brambly acidity. Nice balance. On the palate it's light, with fairly lively cherry and raspberry fruit supported by clean bright raspberry acidity, and flows into a clean bright tart sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a light zesty key and will be quite nice either as an aperitif with cheese or egg based antipasti, or as a cookout wine; will also work well with flavorful fish or white meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope with black reflections and ruby rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with vegetal accents mingling with violets and dusky spice; it's voluptuous and quite fresh. On the palate it's ample, with rich vegetal laced berry fruit that has some yellow peach accents -- something that can happen in a red -- supported by fairly bright greenish berry fruit acidity, bramble, and smooth sweet tannins that have leafy undertones, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, in a very young key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will work well as a cookout wine, though there's a bit too much going on for it to work with a picnic. If you like this rather voluptuous fruit-and-floral style you will enjoy it, and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly bitter cedar laced berry fruit supported by some graceful spice and vegetal underpinning, also some sea salt and savory accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and bitter tannins that have a graphite shaving underpinning supported by alcohol as well, and it flows into a clean fairly long sour berry fruit finish with alcoholic warmth and bitterness. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or stews, also with game. Direct, unassuming, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Treffiano Carmignano DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit rustic, with barnyard tang amingled with sour brambly acidity and savory notes. Nice balance, but you have to like the style. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have some cedar accents, a feature of youth -- they're not polished -- and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful in a frankly traditional old style key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, much even, because it will drink well now with succulent red meats, be they stewed, from the grill, or out of the oven, and it also promises to be long lived. If you like the style, it's worth seeking out. If you like smoother softer fruitier (on the nose) wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2004
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Syrah
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim; almost poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with green leather and underbrush mingled with plum cherry fruit and dusky bitterness, not quite graphite, but more wet chestnut leaves. Brooding. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Graceful, in a rather scrappy aggressive key, and if you like the style, with its tart fruit, bright acidity, and slightly greenish tannins, it will drink very well with grilled meats or hearty stews or roasts in the short term, and will also age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Vin Santo di Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2003
Tawny amber with bright apricot reflections and some amber in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable walnut rind and some aldehydes mingled with sweetness and greenish accents that confer a haunting feel to the wine. Quite young too, and gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful fig and date fruit supported by considerable brown sugar sweetness that gains direction from dried apricot acidity, and flows into a long brown sugar and date sweetness finish with definition from deft, lacy spice, and some walnut skins with hints of nut crunch. Quite pleasant, and eminently approachable; if you are new to vinsanto it's an excellent introduction to the genre, and offers all sorts of things to think about.
88-90

Colline San Biagio
Colline San Biagio Sancti Blasii Carmignano DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with graphite shavings and hints of balsam; there's also some leathery cedar. On the palate it's ample, and more sour than I had expected, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour greenish red currant acidity, and by bitter vegetal tannins that flow into a clean greenish finish with tannic underpinning. It's aggressive, and tart; if you like the style, it will work quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, fried meats even, but you do have to like the style. If you're partial to smoother wines it won't work for you.
2 stars

Tenuta di Bagnolo
Marchesi Pancrazi Pinot Nero Villa di Bagnolo IGT Toscana 2007
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with savory accents and some tart, brambly berry fruit supported by almost reedy acidity and some minerality as well. It's a distinct break with the other wines, but not unpleasant, and I find myself wondering if it's Pancrazi's Pinot Nero. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with lesser grilled meats, or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to age well for a number of years, becoming lacy with time. Quite enjoyable, and worth seeking out if you like this rather graceful, delicate style.
2 stars

Marchese Pancrazi Pinot Nero Vigna Baragazza IGT Toscana 2007
Deep almandine with blackish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and greenish underpinning. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright slightly bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and lively sour cherry acidity that flows into a bitter acidic finish. Doesn't feel like Sangiovese; but is graceful in a scrappy key; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews and also has the wherewithal to work with fried foods.
2 stars

The 2006 Barbaresco, Presented at Alba Wines

I much enjoyed the 2006 Barbaresco that was presented this year at Alba Wines. 2006 was a fine vintage, and though the wines are still very young they display a suppleness and power that I found quite invigorating, coupled with fairly rich, fairly tart (in many cases) fruit, and brisk acidities. In short, I think that the 2006 Barbaresco displays considerable aging potential, and while you will have to select a winemaker whose tastes match yours, you will find many fine wines to choose from.

We also tasted a few 2003 Barbaresco Riserva wines, which were a mixed lot. Some displayed the ravages brought by the heat of the summer, but a couple pleasantly surprised me, showing more fruit and depth than I expected to find.

And finally, during the afternoon session producers poured their 1999 vintages for us. As was the case with the 1999 Barolo that was also poured in the afternoon sessions, I was quite favorably impressed by the wines, and though the sampling wasn't thorough -- given time constraints I had to pick and choose -- the quality was uniformly high, including wines that don't show particularly well fresh from release. In other words, Many Barbareschi, especially those in the more traditional style, need time to grow.

With respect to the 1999 Baroli, I found most (but not all) of the 1999 Barbareschi to be slightly more mature, and attribute this to differences in terroir. Mature, in this case, is a relative term. None were what one might call old.

The wineries are listed in the order they were poured in.

Barbaresco DOCG 2006

Albino Rocca
Albino Rocca Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich jammy berry fruit supported by jammy accents and underlying sweetness. Nice balance in a youthful ripe key. On the palate it's ample and fairly direct with clean berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins. Though it will drink well with foods, it's not quite as complex as I might have hoped. In other words, it needs time.
1 star

Albino Rocca Vigneto Brich Rocchi Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by spice and cedar. Young in an international key. On the palate it's bright and rich, with clean saucy raspberry cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean fresh fairly tannic finish with vegetal accents. Pleasant in a rather zesty key and very young; it needs another year or two to get its bearings and come together, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Albino Rocca Vigneto Bric Ronchi Barbaresco 1999
Deft almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is quite elegant, opening to reveal savory balsamic notes and spice mingled with sea salt and some leaf tobacco. A wine one can sniff, and sniff again. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful savory berry fruit supported by deft acidity and tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a long warm finish. Quite pleasant; because of the aggressiveness of the tannins I wouldn't choose it to meditate with, but it will work magic when combined with a juicy slice of rare roast beef.
88-90


Cascina Bruciata
Cascina Bruciata Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and petroleum laced, with greenish spice and little fruit; I think this is a manifestation of oak but I'm not sure. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly soft plum fruit supported by moderate salty acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work from below the surface, as it were, flowing into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's overly polished for my tastes, and though some fruit may emerge with time, it will always be polished.
1 star

Cascina delle Rose
Cascina delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and greenish accents, but not much fruit in the way of fruit; there's much oak here. On the palate it's moderately intense; there's not much in the way of fruit, though there is a leathery minerality supported by warmth and cedar-laced tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It was fed a lot of oak and is still trying to digest it. Whether it will or not is anyone's guess; I would in any case give it 3-5 years to get its bearings before opening it. It may do interesting things with time, but the future will tell.
1 star

Cascina Delle Rose Tre Stelle Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with alcohol and warmth mingled with some leather and hints of lathered horse; there's also rosa canina, nutmeg, and hints of dried flowers. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich tart berry fruit supported by ample tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a clean long finish. It's a bit awkward, and more spread out than I might have liked -- not deft and well defined.
1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:
Cascina Delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco 1999
Brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leaf tobacco and spice mingled with hints of menthol and alcohol, and underlying leathery balsamic notes. Considerable depth. On the palate it's ample, with rich clean warm berry fruit supported by savory spice that flows into a bright fairly savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with hearty meat dishes, from succulent roasts through stews.
2 stars

Cascina Luisin
Cascina Luisin Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean fresh vegetal acidity and deft green leather , as well as rosa canina and savory notes, with slight underlying cedar. Quite elegant, with considerable depth, and very young. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic berry fruit finish. Great depth and elegance and very young; it is drinkable now but will age beautifully for 10-15 years: we're at the start of a long journey.
92

Cascina Luisin Sorì Paolin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and leathery almandine in the rim. The bouquet is frankly traditional, with rosa canina mingled with clean berry fruit supported by greenish accents and warm spice. Nice balance and pleasant to sniff, though very young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet slightly leathery tannins that flow into a long, long warm fruit laced finish with leathery underpinning. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and approachable (barely) now; one would be better off to give it a couple of years, and it will age quite well for a decade or more. Worth waiting for. At least I think so.
90

Produttori del Barbaresco
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key, with animal tang mingled with balsam and stable straw, and some tart acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft slightly bitter berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, though I would be tempted to give it a few more years. Worth seeking out if you're of traditional tastes.
88-90

Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by some raspberry acidity and hints of rosa canina with a fair amount of spice as well. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet rather savory tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart finish. Quite pleasant, and very young; it will drink now with roasts or stews, though there is also enough acidity for it to work well with (very elegant) fried meats, and will also age nicely for 10-15 years. Quite nice, in a bright rather aggressive traditional key.
88-90

Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice, mingled with rosa canina. Very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though not yet velvety, and they do display an underpinning of steel. Quite pleasant, though it will reward those who will give it time. Traditional too; not a smoother softer fruit driven wine, but rather one with bracing acidity that will age quite well.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Produttori del Barbaresco Vigneto Rio Sordo Barbaresco Riserva 1999
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with leaf tobacco and leather mingled with wet horse, spice, and some metallic notes. Quite elegant. On the palate it's full and rich with elegant brandied cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some leafy bitter undertones and flow into a long bitter tannic finish. Very pleasant in a rather austere key, and has quite a bit to say; one could drink and enjoy it now, or age it for many more years. Beautiful wine.
92


Casetta
Casetta Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and bright acidity mingled with some berry fruit, though what really emerges is the vegetal nature Nebbiolo can display. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft acidity that provides direction, flowing into a clean slightly greenish tart finish. It's quite young, and will age quite well; I'd be tempted to set it aside for 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for 10-15
2 stars

Montaribaldi
Montaribaldi Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with wet horse mingled with wet stable straw and some balsam. On the palate it's fairly bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly leathery berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly tart finish. It's not a wine for lovers of studied smoothness, but if you like this somewhat more rustic style, it will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts in the short term, and also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. In short, if you like the style it's worth seeking out.
2 stars

Montaribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is charged, with a fair amount of alcohol and considerable greenish spice, and hints of white glue, but not much in the way of fruit; it brings to mind a hulking person standing in a corner. On the palate it's full, with rather generic red berry fruit supported by bitterness and savory accents, and by tannins that are fairly rich and spicy, and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish. There's something about it that I found bothersome, and if I had a bottle I would be tempted to give it a few years, because it's not happy now.

Castello di Verduno
Castello di Verduno Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Dusky black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with acidity and some cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter cedar laced fruit supported by savory accent and some minerality. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which will likely never really match the wood.
1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:
Castello di Verduno Rabajà Barbaresco Riserva 1999
Brownish almandine with black-brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic and dusky, with warm balsamic acidity mingled with spice and some saddle leather. Quite tertiary, but pleasant if you like this rather pungent traditional style. On the palate it's ample, with warmth and leathery tannic notes supported by balsam and minerality that flow into a long warm finish. Very old school, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style; if you're more towards the international side of the spectrum it won't work well for you.
2 stars

Cascina Morassino
Cascina Morassino Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is greenish, with cedar and spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable mineral laced bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit, which comes across as dried out by the wood.
1 star

Cascina Morassino Morassino Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and spice, nutmeg and some cinnamon, and also hints of cedar. Nice balance in a youthful keuy. On the palate it's bright and full, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and some underlying bitterness, while the tannins are smooth and war,m, with slught cedar underpinning. Quite pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will dirnk well with foods now, though I would be tempted to set a bottle aside for 3-5 years, and expect it to do interesting things over the next 15 years.
2 stars

Cà del Baio
Cà del Baio Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar laced vegetal notes and some underlying berry fruit mingled with nutmeg and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm tannic burr and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's very young, but promises quite nicely, and will drink very well with grilled meats, roasts, or stews when it has its legs about it. Give it 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Cà del Baio Valgrande Barbaresco DOCG 2006 Cà del Baio
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by tart acidity and pleasing slightly greenish spice. On the palate it's bright, with clean bright berry fruit acidity and sour berry fruit supported by smooth rather tart tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very young, and needs another 3-5 years to get its bearings; because of its acidity it will age very well, for a decade or more.
2 stars

Michele Chiarlo
Michele Chiarlo Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and surprisingly young, with tart berry fruit supported by violets and greenish cedar, with spice as well. Nice balance, and quite young. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright finish. It's up front and direct, and at present fairly one dimensional, but will age nicely -- there's enough acidity and the tannins are bright -- and could do quite interesting things with time. I would give it 3-5 years and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Poderi Colla
Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated greenness supported by spice -- it brings to mind an After 8 Mint -- it's also very young and there isn't much fruit at present, though there is interesting tobacco. But the minty spice is nice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish with acidic direction; not much tannin in finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink very well with grilled or roasted meats now, and also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Poderi Colla Tenuta Roncaglia Barbaresco 1999
Poured from a magnum: Elegant almandine with brownish rim. Deft bouquet, with leather and rosa canina mingled with spice; it's quick to write but shows great depth and harmony, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, rich, and powerful, with intense red berry fruit supported by supple tannins and deft acidity. Great finesse, and I am much impressed.
92

Carlo Giacosa
Carlo Giacosa Narin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with fairly bright vegetal accents of the sort Nebbiolo can display, supported by spice and some leaf tobacco. Quite young, but pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish.
2 stars

Moccagatta
Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with vanilla and berry fruit whose interaction brings a Hostess cupcake to mind, with some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. It's quite young, and needs another year or two, but will be worth seeking out if you prefer a more international style of wine, and will also age nicely for 8-10 years
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco 1999
Brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with menthol and cedar -- there's quite a bit of oak to it, which is well integrated but obviously present -- and underbrush as well. Beautiful in an international key. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cedar laced bright cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and lasting warmth that flow into a warm peppery finish. A beautiful expression of the international style, and if you're an admirer of the style you will enjoy it very much. If you're more traditionally minded it will be less magical for you.
88-90

La Cà Növa
La Cà Növa Bric Mentina Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and minty, with berry fruit and spice. On the palate it's is' ample, and fairly direct, weith moderate berry fruit supported by cedar laced bitterness. Wood overshadows fruit, and bitterness in the finish.
1 star

Molino
Molino Ausario Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents. Very young, in an oaky key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that are rather lax; I'd have liked greater tightness than I found.
1 star

Molino Teorema Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is vegetal, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled with greenish spice and red berry fruit supported by hints of berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and rich, with deft berry fruit -- raspberry with some cherry supported by raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long tart berry fruit finish. It's quite approachable in a middle of the road key, and will work well with succulent roasts or stews in the short term, while also aging well for a decade or more.
2 stars


Nada Giuseppe
Nada Giuseppe Casot Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with coffee and chocolate, with some spice as well; there's less fruit than I might have liked. On the palate it's ample and fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean cedar laced tannins and savory spice, with moderate acidity as well. Nice balance in a youthful international key, and will drink will with grilled ,meats or roasts in the short term, though it will also age nicely too. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Pertinace
Pertinace Marcarini Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rustic, with green leather and animal tang mingled with stable straw and warmth; pleasant to sniff if you like the style. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by lively berry fruit acidity; it's quite pleasant if you like the style, and will drink very well with grilled meats or stews. Even if you generally like the studied richness of the more international style you'll find things to ponder, and it will age quite well too
2 stars

Pertinace Nervo Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with vegetal accents mingled with spice and warmth. On the palate it's moderately rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some sweet tannins; I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than I found.
1 star

Orlando Abrigo
Orlando Abrigo Vigna Rongallo Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with the bright greenness typical of some Nebbioli, supported by cedar and spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have an aggressive warmth to them, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's very young, and needs 3-5 years, but presents quite well.
2 stars

Orlando Abrigo Montersino Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rium. The bouquet is fairly intense, with nutmeg and spice mingled with berry fruit and some cedar; there's not much acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, in a fairly direct berry fruit driven key, with moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods, also will age well for a decade or more. Middle of the road, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Orlando Abrigo Vigna Montersino Barbaresco 1999
From a Magnum. Elegant black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with savory rather pungent dried prune fruit laced with leather and savory balsamic notes. Quite elegant, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively savory tannic minerality more than fruit, and flows into a clean tannic finish with lasting spicy warmth. It's more of a food wine than a sipping wine, and will work very well with a succulent roast, e.g. leg of lamb, or a stew.
2 stars

Vigin
Vigin Noemy Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with vegtal accents and spice, with some chocolate as well. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some clean bright savory tannins; it's quite young in a fairly oak-driven key, and needs another 2-3 years to get its bearings, though it will drink well with grilled meats or light roasts.
2 stars

Rizzi
Rizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with saddle leather mingled with some animal accents and petroleum; there's also wet horse and some balsamic notes. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich leather savory minerality more than fruit, supported by warmth and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have a savory underpinning, and flow into a clean savory finish with lasting warmth. It's quite traditional, and if you like the style will drink well with grilled meats or light stews in the short term, though it also has the acidity necessary to age well -- a decade or more.
2 stars

Rizzi Pajorè Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite elegant, with rich cherry fruit laced with rosa canina and spice; though it's quick to write there's a lot going on and rare harmony too. On the palate it's full, and rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by deft sour raspberry cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It' very young, and drinkable, though if you can you should give it another 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for many more years after that. Beautiful wine.
90-91

Tasted in the afternoon:
Rizzi Fondetta Barbaresco 1999
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and pungent with bright cedar mingled with sea salt and balsamic accents. Quite a bit of oak, it seems. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful savory minerality supported by warmth and acidity. It's particular, and you have to like the style: I would serve it more with foods than far from the table. It seems stylistically different from the 2006 -- much more oak -- though I would want to taste a complete vertical before coming to a conclusion.
2 stars

Pelissero
Pelissero Nubiola Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity. On the palate it's direct, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by fairly bright tannins that flow into a fairly rich tannic finish. Direct, and up front, and this is in part because it is quite young, and needs time. 3-5 years, I would guess, by which point it may do very interesting things. In short, a wine to set aside, because it's not what it will become.
2 stars

Pelissero Pasquale Bricco San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm berry fruit supported by some green leather and fairly deft spice, with hints of cedar and slight tar mingled with slight hardwood ash. On the palate it's full, with cherry fruit that's not quite as full as I expected, supported by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a clean rather tannic finish; there's also not quite as much acidity as I might have hoped for -- the direction ends up coming from the tannic bitterness, and though it works it's not as interesting. In the wine's defense it is very young, and needs at least a couple of years to begin to show well.
1 star

Eredi Lodali
Eredi Lodali Lorens Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and vegetal, with greenish accents and berry fruit whose interaction brings a cupcake to mind, supported by heather and some sage. Quite a contribution from wood. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean decidedly cedar laced finish. A richly oaked wine, and if you like the style you will like it, because there is sufficient fruit to stand up to the wood, though you do have to like the style. Expect it to age well for 8-10 years.
2 stars

Rivetto
Rivetto Cè Vanin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some vegetal accents, with underlying rosa canina and spice. Nice balance, and fairly rich. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and by smooth sweet youthful tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish. It's very young, a toddler, but will drink well with succulent red meats, and ahs the wherewithal to age nicely for a decade or more. Very traditional, and I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

La Ganghija
La Ganghija Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with greenish spice that brings nettles to mind, supported by cedar and some green leather; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly bright acidity that flows into a tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out, and one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
88-90

Terrenostre
Terrenostre Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is cedar laced, with some red berry fruit supported by rosa canina and cedar, with some mentholated accents as well, in addition to considerable alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and zesty tannins that flow into a warm peppery finish. It's bright, in a tomboysh key, and though slender now will become ethereal with time, and is (I Think) a wine to wait for. Because it will have much more to sat in 5-8 years than it does now.
2 stars

Fontanafredda
Fontanafredda Coste Rubin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by some cedar and spice, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample and rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or stews, and also has the capacity to age well for many years --10 at least. It's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, but will work very well with the dinner that follows it, and to my way of thinking that's more important.
88


Terre da Vino
Terre da Vino La Casa in Collina Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly cooked berry fruit supported by spice and berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and rich, with smooth fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins; the acidity is quite sufficient to provide direction, though it's not really bracing. In short, middle of the road, and will drink nicely with a wide variety of meats in the short term; it also has the legs necessary to age well over time.
2 stars

Prunotto
Prunotto Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by pleasing spice, a mix of nutmeg and hints of cinnamon, and a fair amount of warmth. Quite nice, in a middle of the road key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit fnish. Quite lìpleasant, and very young; it will drink nicely now with succulent meats -- lamb chops come to mind -- though it will richly reward those with the patience to give it a few years.
2 stars

Cantina del Pino
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with ripe berry fruit -- strawberries -- mingled with sweetness and greenish spice. Quite pleasant in a youthful key. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with direct strawberry cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, while the tannins are rich and peppery, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with a long tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a very youthful key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or stews now, though it will reward those who have the patience to give it a few years.
2 stars

Mainerdo
Mainerdo F.lli Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with spice, animal tang, and green leather. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky overtones and spice, and some underlying savory salty notes. Fairly direct, and I found myself wishing for greater richness of fruit.
1 star

Adriano Marco e Vittorio
Adriano Marco e Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with greenish raspberry fruit supported by vegetal accents and spice. Nice balance, and very young and decidedly greenish. On the palate it's again fairly rich, with bright berry fruit supported by savory bitterness and a fair amount of warmth, which flows into a warm tannic finish.
1 star

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina mingled with leather and spice from grapes; it's still developing but pleasant in a traditional key, and will become complex with time. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, with the slightest of burrs, and promise to become velvety with time. Very pleasant in a traditional key; it's a child who will grow up to be a beautiful adult, and will be worth waiting for if you like the style. Even if you're of more modern tastes you'll find things to think about and enjoy. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Adriano Marco e Figlio Basarin Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart rather graceful berry fruit supported by red currant acidity and some spice, nutmeg in particular, and some greenish accents mingled with wood smoke. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and fairly rich berry fruit acidity. Pleasant, though not quite as tightly woven as I might have liked; the acidity is nice and confers considerable life to the wine, which will age well for a decade or perhaps more.
2 stars

Piazzo Armando
Piazzo Armando Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal-laced jammy berry fruit supported by acidity and spice. Young, and obviously needs time. On the palate it's ample, rich, and direct, with bright savory berry fruit supported by clean spice and tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's approachable, in a middle of the road key, but needs time to come together and show its best -- 3- 5 years at least. I expect that it will do nice things over the next 10-15 years
2 stars

Piazzo Armando Sorì Fratin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and alcoholic, with moderate berry fruit supported by spice and warmth, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's direct, with bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by fairly bright tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. Middle of the road tending towards traditional, and will drink quite well with foods in the short term, though it will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Commendator Armando Piazzo Barbaresco Riserva 1999
Almandine with brown reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and deft, with berry fruit supported by some menthol and leaf tobacco; by comparison with some the nose has considerably more fruit to it, and fewer tertiary aromas -- there is also considerable deft acidity supporting it. On the palate it's full and rich with powerful savory berry fruit supported by deft acidity and rich tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean fresh finish. Still young, and though it will soften with time -- which will do beautiful things -- I very much enjoyed it now.
90

Taliano Michele
Taliano Michele Ad Altiora Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is jammy, with berry fruit laced with strawberries and hints of raspberry acidity, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fairly rich cherry and strawberry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will work quite well with foods now, though it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Poderi Elia
Poderi Elia Serracapelli Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with slightly brandied cherry raspberry fruit supported by a fair amount of acidity and some greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk peppery acidity and haunting greenish tannins that flow into a greenish tannic finish. Very young, and needs at least 2-3 years to be drinkable, will age nicely in middle of the road key for 10-15 years. Worth seeking out to set aside.
2 stars

Barale Fratelli
Barale Fratelli Serraboella Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rather ethereal rosa canina mingled with spice and red berry fruit, and a fair amount of underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and a bit lighter than some, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that display a degree of steel, though not much velvet yet. Will be quite pleasant in a graceful ethereal key when it has its legs about it -- in a year or two, and will age nicely for a decade at least.
2 stars

Cigliuti
Cigliuti Serraboella Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with alcohol and some animal notes mingled with spice and cedar, and underlying rather sullen berry fruit. It doesn't seem happy. On the palate it's very young, with fauirly rich cherry fruit that's cut off at the knees by an angry peppery oaky burr that flows out to cover all else, and resolves into a fiery peppery finish. It's charged in an international heavily oaked key and simply not ready. At all; it will need 3-5 years to become approachable, and given the richness of the fruit that was present before the tannins asserted themselves, it will make it. But you have to like the style. The score reflects the present.
1 star

Pietro Rinaldi
Pietro Rinaldi San Cristoforo Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and very young, with brash sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some cedar, it's clearly developing but quite pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by considerable warmth and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly long rather dry finish; it's still coming together but will be quite pleasant in a middle of the road key when it does, say 2-3 years, and age well for many more thereafter. Do give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina
Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Vigneto 'L Ciaciaret Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with animal tang mingled with leather and some balsamic accents, and underlying berry fruit with mineral acidity and some alcohol. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm brambly finish. Traditional, and quite pleasant if you like the style; though it is (relatively) ready to drink now, it will also do interesting things with time, becoming lacy and ethereal.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Vigneti L'Ciaciaret Barbaresco 1999
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with rosa canina and dried floral accents mingled with nutmeg and spice, some cedar, savory warmth, and underlying berry fruit. Nice balance and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly direct berry fruit supported by savory tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's more interesting on the nose than on the palate, which is a touch settled, thanks to less acidity than I might have liked. Pleasant in any case, but mature and (I think) no longer climbing.
2 stars

Lequio Ugo
Lequio Ugo Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Elegant almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful sour cherry supported by rosa canina and hints of raspberry acidity and underlying green leather; it brings to mind a 20s siren giving a come hither look. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity -- hints of red currants in there too -- and by tannins that are smooth, and show hints of velvet, though they're also still quite young. One could drink it now with succulent red meats, but it will richly reward those blessed with the patience necessary to give it time. Many years, even. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Oddero Poderi e Cantine
Oddero Poderi e Cantine Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, and fairly rich, with delicate strawberry and forest berry fruit supported by alcohol and rosa canina, with alcohol and hints of underbrush providing depth. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's ample and rich, and also quite young, with deft berry fruit supported by warm acidity and by tannins that are splintery, and have some tarry accents as they flow into a warm dry finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and very young; it needs 2-4 years to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Cascina Saria
Cascina Saria Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich berry fruit supported by peppery spice and greenish cedar, with direction coming from the duskiness of the cedar, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's smoother than I expected, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky berry fruit acidity and by cedar laced tannins that do display a peppery burr but aren't really angry, and flow into a finish that is quite long, with considerable youthful warmth. It's quite approachable, in a middle of the road to international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; even the more traditionally minded will find things to think about, and it will age nicely for 10-15 years.
2 stars

Ressia
Ressia Canova Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and orange in rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and underlying spice. The overall impression is one of pleasant youthful directness; it's still developing. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by angry peppery tannins that overshadow most everything, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a squalling babe who needs time, at least a couple of years, and judging it now is rather like evaluating a toddler in the midst of a tantrum. Better to give it time, because the potential is there.
2 stars

Tenuta San Mauro
Tenuta San Mauro Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deft almandine with brownish black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by rosa canina and some green leather, with hints of leaf tobacco as well, and slight tar. Quite a bit going on, in a fairly traditional key, and it is inviting. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. The palate is behind the nose; it will in any case age nicely for a decade or more, and is rather graceful.
2 stars

Bonino Romano
Bonino Romano Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich cherry fruit that has a rather voluptuous feel to it -- not quite starlet in a glass, but in that direction -- supported by some charcoal and cut flowers. On the palate it's ample, rich, and charged, with considerable fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by well polished smooth sweet tannins that flow into a slightly jammy fruit finish. Quite approachable in an international key, and if you like a richer, more fruit driven style you will enjoy it. If you're more traditionally minded, it won't work as well for you. It's approachable now, but will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Giacosa Fratelli
Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with mentholated cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and some dusky dappled shade. On the palate it's ample and smooth, in a rich fruit driven key, with bright cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do reveal a cedar-laced peppery burr that continues into the finish, which is fruit laced. It's very young, in a middle of the road key, and needs time, a couple of years at least, at which point it will work quite well with succulent red meats, and I think it will also age nicely for at least a decade. The palate is further along than the nose, though both need time.
2 stars

Giacosa Fratelli Basarin Vigna Gian Matè Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft rosa canina and sour cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and some nutmeg. Pleasant. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are powerful, and have a youthful burr; it needs another couple of years to really come into its own, but will already drink now with succulent red meats. If you can bear infanticide, that is; it's a wine that is going places and it will be interesting to follow its journey. I would expect it to age quite well for 10-15 years.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Giacosa Fratelli Rio Sordo Barbaresco 1999
Pale brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and nutmeg mingled with leaf tobacco and dried lfowers, with some rosa canina as well. Nice balance, with considerable elegance and depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft, bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rich and fairly smooth, flowing into a clean somewhat sour spicy finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or hearty stews, and also has the wherewithal to age well for another 5-10 years.
89-91

Negro Angelo e Figli
Negro Angelo e Figli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with greenish spicy berry fruit supported by sea salt and slight stable straw, and also by a fair amount of greenish cedar. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable greenish cedar, some minty accents, and by deft berry fruit acidity that flow into a fairly clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's middle of the road in key, and needs a couple of years for the tannins to smooth in and come together; when they do it will work quite well with succulent meats. But do give it time.
2 stars

Fontanabianca
Fontanabianca Sorì Burdin Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina mingled with Moroccan leather and some dried flowers; there's also some minerality but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggested, with frankly zesty berry fruit supported by considerable almost lemony acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr, and flow into a long warm tart finish that lasts. It's quite young, in a traditional key, and the nose is still developing; it will age nicely and is worth considering if you're traditionally minded. If you prefer riper more fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you. In any case, give it time, because it will do interesting things.
2 stars

Castello di Neive
Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with moderate berry fruit supported by cedar and some greenish accents with underlying bitterness and alcohol. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense jammy berry fruit supported by sweet splintery tannins that flow into a warm slightly splintery tannic finish. It's lax, and I'd have liked more depth to the fruit, and also greater tightness overtones the weave of the wine.
1 star

Castello di Neive Santo Stefano Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with cedar and leather, supported by savory accents and pungent wood smoke; as it opens rosa canina also emerges, stepping to the fore. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by considerable peppery acidity and by tannins that are decidedly peppery and angry, and flow into a warm tart berry fruit finish. It's aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I would give it a few more years to develop because it is very much in angry mid stride now. With time -- many years -- it could become quite elegant in a rather ethereal key. But it's not there yet.
2 stars

La Contea
La Contea Ripa Sorita Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with cedar and some pungent spice, but not much fruit. Other things are instead carrying the show. On the palate it's full, with generic red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have an obvious cedary oaky component, and flow into a smooth rather bitter finish, the oak again making itself known. It's very young, and needs time to smooth the tannins, but I would have liked more freshness and fruit than I found. It is instead rather tired.
1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:
La Contea Ripa Fiorita Barbaresco 1999
Lively almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leathery berry fruit supported by spice, warmth, and some balsamic accents. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh tannic finish with a greenish spicy underpinning. Nice balance in a fairly direct key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats; it's also still quite young.
2 stars

Punset
Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents mingled with tart spice and the airiness of a fall afternoon; there's not that much fruit. On the palate it's full with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by fairly rich tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The palate is ahead of the nose, and I found myself rather liking it; it has a pleasant acidity that promises long life. If the nose follows the palate, it will do interesting things, though I would give it 3-5 years to develop, and expect it to age for at least 15. In short, a wine for the future, not for today.
2 stars

Punset Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is charged, with considerable balsam mingled with leather and some stable straw, with savory accents and hints of smoke and petroleum as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful, bright sour cherry fruit supported by cheeky sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, and have slight savory leathery accents, flowing into a tart finish with some hints of petroleum. It's frankly old style, and if you like the old style you will enjoy it. If you're of more modern tastes you won't but it will work well with succulent red meats regardless. In short, for some but not for all.
2 stars

Punset Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by warmth and some greenish accents. One track at present. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and brisk berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean tart finish. The palate is much more interesting than the nose, and I would give the nose time to develop. This said, it's bright in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with succulent red meats, though as I said, I would give it time. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Punset Barbaresco 1999
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with greenish berry fruit supported by alcohol and spice from grapes: it comes across as quite intense and quite young, and though it's not going in several directions, it hasn't completely settled either. Not bad for a wine that's 10 years old. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean bright sour cherry finish. A very young wine with considerable depth that still has many years ahead of it, but will already drink quite well with stews and roasts now. Impressive and vibrant in its youth.
88-90

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 1999
Lively almandine ruby with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright and rich in a fairly traditional key, with balsamic notes and spice supported by leaf tobacco and leafy vegetal accents, as well as sea salt. On the palate it's full, rich, and more delicate than the Barbaresco Base, with deft sour berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet rather green tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with lasting warmth and a greenish tannic Nebbiolo underpinning. Impressive, and will drink very well now with succulent red meats - a Porterhouse comes to mind - though if you can bear to give it more time it will put it to very good use.
90-91

A few more Camp Quadros, tasted at Vinitaly in March 2009:
Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2001
Pale almandine with almandine ruby rim. Bright bouquet with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by spice and some rosa canina. Vigorous and very young for a 2001; it's also pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich with vigorous cherry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite nice and still very young; an excellent example of a superb vintage that will age well for many more years.
90-91

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2003
Pale almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, and more along than the 01's, with leaf tobacco and berry fruit supported by considerable alcohol and some fresh peppery spice. Nice balance and not overripe, which is an achievement, considering how hot the 2003 summer was. On the palate it's full and smooth with fairly rich leathery cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tart acidity. It is much more mature than the 01, almost to the point that comparing them is like comparing apples and oranges, but a nice interpretation of 2003.
2 stars

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2004
Almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich berry fruit supported by jammy accents and some vegetal notes. Nice balance and very young. On the palate it's full and rich, with bitter red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth berry fruit acidity and slightly greenish tannins that flow into a long warm finish. Quite pleasant in a youthful zesty key and will work very well with foods, though it will richly reward those blessed with patience.
90-91

Punset Campo Quadro Barbaresco 2005
Lively almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up bright berry fruit supported by hints of green leather and rosa canina, while there is also some cedar, and deft acidity. On the palate it's full, rich and very young, with powerful rather scrappy acidity supporting greenish berry fruit -- it was a cooler, wetter vintage -- that flows into a clean fresh greenish finish. It's quite elegant in a cooler vintage key, and will drink very well with red meats. I would expect it to be longer lived than the 2003, though not as long-lived as either the 2001 or the 2004.
2 stars

Rivetti Massimo
Rivetti Massimo Froi Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with saddle leather mingled with rosa canina and bright berry fruit, also some nutmeg and slight greenish accents. Graceful and cheeky, too. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean bright cherry finish. It's graceful in a sinuous way, and will become willowy with time; one oculd drink it now, but it has a charm to it that will increase with time. Worth seeking out if you prefer the traditional, more acidic style, and even if you prefer less acidic wines you will find things to enjoy. I would give it 3-5 years at least, and expect it to age well for 10-15 or more.
88-90

Battaglio
Battaglio Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some bitterness mingled with spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a tart savory finish. The nose is behind the palate, which I rather enjoyed; assuming it follows the palate's lead the wine will clean up nicely, in a fairly traditional key, and work well with grilled meats or light stews, But it needs a couple of years to come together. At present it's out in left field.
1 star

Fattoria San Giuliano
Fattoria San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by mentholated greenish spice, and by fairly rich jammy accents; it gives an impression of being in a hurry and also in mid stride. On the palate it's ample, bright, and also fairly sweet, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and cedar laced tannins, while there is an undercurrent of sweetness too -- not much, but it is there -- that flows into a clean rather green finish. It's particular, going in its own direction, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style; because of its brightness it will work well with succulent meats, and also age well for many years.
2 stars

Dante Rivetti
Dante Rivetti Bricco Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich rosa canina mingled with dried flowers and nutmeg, with sweetish accents as well, and some strawberry that can happen with a young Nebbiolo; quite pleasant to sniff and has a lot to say -- as it opens interesting greenish jammy notes also emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and by sweet tannins that have some greenish overtones and flow into a tart greenish finish. I found it more settled on the palate than the nose, and think this may be a phase the wine is in. In other words, I'd give it 3-5 years, and expect it to do interesting things by then.
2 stars

Tasted in the afternoon:
Dante Rivetti Bricco Barbaresco Riserva 1999
Almandine with brownish almandine reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is fairly rich in a traditional key, with considerable savory balsamic acidity supported by stable straw and savory spice, and greenish leaf tobacco as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's full and rich with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into lasting warmth. Elegant in a traditional key and will work very well with food; it's a little too nervous to work as a meditation wine, but will continue to age well for another decade at least.
2 stars

Prinsi
Prinsi Fausone Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim,. The bouquet is rustic, with balsam and wet stable straw mingling with savory notes and Moroccan leather; there's not much fruit, but there is lathered horse and nutmeg spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich, leathery cherry fruit supported by a sweetness that brings cola to mind, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a warm leathery tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed, and the sweetness is odd too. Particular, and not for all.
1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:
Prinsi Barbaresco Gallina 1999
Almandine with black reflections and lam rim becoming orange in the nail. The bouquet is rich, with cedar-laced duskiness supported by berry fruit and greenish vegetal accents, with warmth and some tingly acidity. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm rather splintery peppery burr, and flow into a warm fairly tart berry fruit finish. It is pleasant, but not quite as deft as I thought it would be -- the palate stumbles, as it were.
2 stars

Gavi: An Overview

It had been almost ten years since I last tasted systematically through Gavi, so when Carlo Macchi asked me, in the course of this spring's Bolgheri presentation, if I wanted to taste Gavi with him in July, I replied with an enthusiastic yes.

And what is Gavi? A white wine made from the Cortese grape, which is often referred to as Piemonte's white analog to Nebbiolo in wine books (especially the older ones).

Its repute is not surprising, as one might expect from looking at a history book: The Gavi region is now part of Piemonte (province of Alessandria), but historically was known as the Oltregiogo Ligure (literally, Liguria beyond the pass), and is where the Genovese nobility built their summer palaces. People who can afford to build beautiful villas usually like to eat well too, and in the days before easy overland transport this meant going local for all but the most refined and easy to carry delicacies. Wine for daily consumption does not fall into this category, and hence they began to plant vineyards; the first mention of viticulture occurs in documents dating to 1072, when the Bishop of Genova rented chestnut stands and vineyards in the town of Meirana, which is now home to Broglia, to two residents of Gavi.

According to Maurizio Fava, who wrote Le Vie del Gavi, Slowfood's travel guide to Gavi, these vineyards were likely planted with red grapes. The first mention of Cortese dates to 1659. The grape is mentioned frequently in subsequent records and became widespread; in the 1850s the great French enologist Luis Oddard, who was hired by Count Camillo Cavour to work with Barolo, began using Cortese to make sparkling wines (it's still widely used by Italian spumante producers). In 1876 Marquis Cambiaso began intensive cultivation of Cortese in the La Cinturiona and Toledana estates. Nearby landowners hastened to follow his example, and more vineyards were replanted with Cortese following the phylloxera outbreaks a century ago, to meet the growing demand from Liguria. At the turn of the last century, Gavi was a wine on the move.

But where was it going? Alas, mostly the wrong way; some estates, notably La Scolca, began thinking in terms of quality early on, but many others decided to ride their coat tails, as it were, making light, simple wines that could be produced in quantity, and counting on name recognition to help sales. This is certainly the tack taken by the wine merchants who bottled the vast majority of the Gavi production. The introduction of the Gavi DOC in 1974 didn't change things much; the merchants continued to predominate, and much of what they sold was bottled outside the region, and this merits a quick aside.

Though it's obvious that bottling outside the region of origin is not optimal -- putting a wine in a tank and transporting it provides the dishonest with many opportunities to doctor the wine -- this bottling did move the wine, and I was told by more than one person that the sales generated by the practice helped keep people -- grape growers and winemakers who did not bottle, especially -- afloat in hard times.

Returning to our narrative, with the establishment of the DOC things did begin to change on the home front, as the younger generation took over from their parents, and many decided to bottle themselves rather than sell grapes or wine to the merchants. At the same time outsiders began to buy into the area, much the way they have in Chianti.

The establishment of the Gavi DOCG in the summer of 1998 was a major step forward in the battle for quality; the regulations specifically state that all Gavi has to be bottled within the Gavi production zone. This means people can no longer drive tanks of the wine elsewhere (e.g. up to Germany) and bottle it as Gavi. And, because every bottle of Gavi must now have a numbered fascetta (the light green DOCG strip), people can no longer run up the production as they once did -- a hectare of vineyard can produce 95 quintals of grapes, with a maximum yield of 70%, which translates into 66.5 hectoliters, or 8,844 bottles (1 hectoliter = 133 750-ml bottles). No more.

The vineyards, you wonder? They must be located within the Gavi production zone, which includes all or part of 11 townships located around Gavi, and must be planted with Cortese -- there was talk of allowing the use of small percentages of other varietals, for example Chardonnay, but in the end they decided not to. Fermentation is typically in steel, though it's not a requirement -- the regulations simply state that fermentation must take place within the production zone.

A few wineries are fermenting in wood, and others lightly barrique their wines after fermentation; my personal impression is that it takes a deft touch to avoid overloading the wine with oak. The alcohol percentage has to be at least 10.5%, which makes for the classic old-style light spritzy Gavi. Most of the better Gavis I tasted are stronger, 12 or more percent alcohol.

Sale generally begins late in the spring following the harvest, and this is too soon: When I last tasted through Gavi, I tasted many of the wines twice, once at Vinitaly when they were freshly bottled, and again in Gavi in the fall, and the increase in complexity was often dramatic. The producers are of course well aware of this, but Italian consumers, restaurateurs especially, insist on getting it as soon as possible. Therefore the wine goes out early, and you should grab it while it's available. When you should open your Gavi is another matter. Unless you have selected something quite light, in late fall at the earliest.

None of what I tasted was the least bit tired. And you may want to wait; Gavi can age remarkably well, gaining considerable complexity on the nose while a maintaining a pleasing lightness on the palate.

In terms of general flavor impressions, Gavi tends to be on the crisp side, ranging from decidedly tart to round with citrus overtones; with respect to 10 years ago many of the wines I tasted this time were harvested later, with riper grapes, and as a result were softer and smoother. Soft and smooth in a relative way; Cortese has considerable backbone and character even when quite ripe. And there is the personal preference of the winemaker too; some people prefer to work with the older style, producing more acidic, more mineral, and less fruity wines, and if that's your preference, you will find it. But you will also find smoother, softer, more approachable Gavi, and even Gavi whose grapes ripened to the point that the acidity dropped considerably. My personal preference tends towards the crisper end of the spectrum.

In terms of food-wine parings, though some Gavi will work as an aperitif many are food wines that will give their best at table. Fish obviously comes to mind, as does Ligurian vegetarian cuisine, ravioli and such with vegetable/cheese stuffings, and pesto sauce. Gavi will also go well with omelets and frittate, and some of the sweeter Gavis will work nicely with cheeses, while the fuller ones will go well with white meats. So it's a versatile wine.

A word on labels: if you read a number, you may come to the conclusion that all Gavi is not created equal -- there is Gavi di Gavi and then there's the rest. Not true; the Gavi di Gavi estates are simply located within the township of Gavi. The best terroir in the region is considered to be a hill called Rovereto, which does give excellent results. But there are equally interesting wines made elsewhere within the region. And finally, a general word about terroir: Some of Gavi's vineyards are more calcareous, and others more clayey. The calcareous soils produce wines that are more savory, and fresh, bracing even, while the clayey soils produce more structured, rounder wines.

The wines, tasted July 21st and 22nd 2009

Cinzia Bergaglio
Via Ggavi 29
Tassarolo (AL)
Tel 0143 342203

Bergaglio Cinzia La Fornace Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Deft brassy gold with brassy highlights. Elegant bouquet with heather and some honeydew melon, nice acidity too and quite fresh, with some mint as well as it opens. On the palate it's bright, with lively minerality and pleasant underlying bitterness that flow into a clean savory finish that flows into bitterness, with hints of sparkle as well that add peppery accents. It will drink quite well with grilled fish or white meats and egg dishes as well. Will age nicely for 3-5 years too.
2 stars

Bergaglio Cinzia Grifone delle Roveri Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with minerality and some heather, laced with hints of gunflint and very slight honeydew melon that increases, becoming mentholated with time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with honeydew melon supported by moderate acidity; it's ample and lumbers some; I'd have liked greater tightness to the wine. It will in any case work well with cheese or egg based dishes and with white meats in creamy sauces.
1 star

Bergaglio Nicola Azienda Agricola
Via Pedaggeri, 59
Fr. Rovereto 15066 Gavi (AL)
Tel. 0143 682195

Bergaglio Nicola Minaia Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and supported by some greenish mentholated accents; fresh in a tomboyish key. On the palate it's fresh and lively, with rich green apricot fruit laced with some vegetal accents and bright apricot acidity and bitterness that flow into a fairly long bitter finish. Concentrated, and will drink quite well with rich grilled fish, creamy white meats, and I would also be tempted to serve it with oriental dishes, including some of the more spiced schools, for example Hunan Chinese.
2 stars

Bergaglio Nicola Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Papery brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and some minerality, underlain by sea salt. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's it's deft, with clean honeydew melon fruit supported by savory accents and deft mineral-laced acidity that flow into a clean bright finish. Pleasant, in a slightly more delicate key, and will drink quite well with grilled fish, and will also work well with delicate oriental dishes, e.g. Cantonese. Will also be quite nice as an aperitif, and is well worth seeking out if you prefer finesse to power
2 stars

Bonfante Marco
Bonfante Marco Sori I Ronchetti Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite mineral, with a fair amount of heather as well, and some green apricot acidity. On the palate it's mineral, with fair savory bitterness and underlying bitter acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. It's more mineral than many, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though if you prefer more fruit driven whites you will like it less. Assuming you like the style -- it does display a certain grace, and grew upon me -- it will work quite well as an aperitif or with egg or cheese based dishes.
2 stars

Broglia La Meirana
Broglia Gianpiero Bruno Broglia Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with clean herbal accents and delicate honeydew melon supported by some minerality and deft slightly greenish acidity. On the palate it's ample, with pleasant tart apricot fruit supported by quite savory acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant, with considerable character, and will drink well with succulent fish, creamy white meats, and also with egg or cheese based dishes, and I would also be tempted to serve it with soups such as clam chowder (New England style). Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Broglia Gianpiero La Meirana Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasant slightly pungent floral accents mingled with heather and some minerality. On the palate it's full, and quite direct, with fairly rich honeydew melon supported by sea salt and slight greenish accents, and by bright tart apricot acidity that flows into a clean fairly tart finish. It's direct and up front, also because it is sweeter than some of the others, and will work well as an aperitif or with succulent fish, and because of its relative sweetness will also be a good bet with flavorful, more highly spiced oriental dishes, eg. Sichuan. Pleasant and approachable, but I found it a bit simple.
2 stars

Broglia Gianpiero Roverello Gavi di Gavi Gavi Spumante 2008
This is a Metodo Charmat, and is pale brassy white with white rim; the wine foams up in the glass as poured and settles to reveal fine continuous perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some bitterness, and slight sea salt, supported by minerality that's not quite gunflint, but does bring granite to mind. On the palate it's full, with much of the fullness coming from sparkle, and moderately intense honeydew melon fruit laced with minerality, which carries more than acidity, and it flows into a clean rather mineral finish with peppery accents form the sparkle and lasting warmth. Pleasant enough in a very direct key -- not much complexity -- and will drink well with fish or creamy dishes at table, or be a nice alternative if you want a sparkling wine aperitif.
1 star

Bersano
Bersano Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit odd, with greenish accents and faint petroleum/chemical overtones laced with some sea salt; though the description sounds offputting the aromas are not. On the palate it's moving in a different direction, with scrappy slightly vegetal acidity supported by bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's very young, and the nose is, I think, still developing, and will eventually follow the palate. In short, a work in progress, and if the palate sets the tone it will work well with succulent fish, and also with shell fish, including mussels and perhaps oysters. But it needs time, until winter 2009, and to score it now, when it is going in several directions, would do it a disservice.

Camera Silvano Le Selere
Camera Silvano Le Selere Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean heather laced with minerality -- it brings to mind hammer-struck granite -- and deft crisp floral accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, in a distinctly mineral key, with savory minerality supported by mineral acidity that flows into a clean slightly bitter mineral finish. It's less approachable than some of the sweeter Gavis, but will drink well with flavorful grilled fish, and also with fried fish, as well as things such as an onion frittata. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Camera Silvano Le Selere Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is decidedly mineral, with gunflint and some bitterness, laced with heather. On the palate it's equally mineral, with bitter mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish; I found it a touch thin, and if you like richer more fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you. On the other hand, if you like mineral wines it is rather pleasant, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. In short, a wine that takes no quarter; you will like it or not.
1 star

Cantina Produttori del Gavi SCA
Cantina Produttori del Gavi SCA Go Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with pale brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite mineral, with airiness and a degree of dappled shade as well; as it opens savory notes emerge, with hints of apricot as well. On the palate it's moderately intense, with savory accents and minerality supported by moderate fruit; I'd have liked greater richness than I found.
1 star

Cantina Produttori del Gavi SCA GoGo Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and minerality supported by some honeydew melon and slight hints of dried banana. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with clean apricot fruit supported by greenish apricot acidity that flows into a fairly long warm finish; the impression is sunny, and the wine will work well with egg or cheese based dishes, and also with white meats or fish. In short, versatile, and I would also be tempted to serve it with fried meats or fish.
2 stars

Cantina Produttori del Gavi SCA Primi Grappoli Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and pungent, with cut flowers mingled with gunflint and bitterness, and some underlying spice. On the palate it's ample, with minerality supported by tart, almost lemony acidity and by a certain glycerin laced fullness that flows into a tart finish. It's approachable, and will drink well with foods, though I found it a touch direct; it will work well with grilled fish or white meats, and also with dried foods, and I would also be tempted to serve it at a cookout, because its acidity will balance rich cookout side dishes (e.g. potato salad) nicely.
1 star

Carrea Lorenzo
Via Mameli 138,
15066 Gavi (AL)
Tel. 0143642841

Carrea Lorenzo Vigna del Nudo Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather sweet, with honeydew melon laced with citrus and slight menthol; the combination brings caramel to mind. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate minerality and sweetness laced with caramel, and it's fairly settled, though the minerality and the bitterness it imparts does give some direction. But it's not that interesting.
1 star

Cascina La Doria
Cascina Doria SS La Doria Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is unusual, with intense greenish vegetal accents that bring north European bottled ciders to mind -- greenish apple with some yeast -- but not unpleasant. Just atypical. On the palate it's ample, with moderate acidity and greenish vegetal accents supported by some minerality, which flows into a clean rather tart finish. It's fairly direct, and I found myself wishing it were tighter and better defined. And there is that nose.
1 star

Castellari Bergaglio
Castellari Bergaglio Fornace Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale slightly greenish brassy white with brassy reflections. The nose is unusual at the outset, with milky accents that bring chevre (goat's milk cheese) to mind, and then opens gaining minerality while the cheese fades (not completely) and some heather also emerges, together with slight citrus. On the palate it's bright, with fairly intense savory minerality supported by mineral acidity and by a certain languidity that flows into a clean mineral finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant, though a touch thin, and will drink well with shellfish (oysters, even); it will also work well as an aperitif with egg or cheese based antipasti.
2 stars

Castellari Bergaglio Rolona Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections; the rim is white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent sea salt and gunflint mingled with some savory accents; with more swishing greenish honeydew melon also emerges. On the palate it's full and savory, with fairly bright mineral acidity -- it somehow brings mica to mind -- that flows into a clean long rather bitter finish. It's pleasant, though more of a food wine than something to drink far from the table; I would be tempted to serve it with seafood based pasta dishes, or with grilled fish or creamy white meats. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Castellari Bergaglio Rovereto Vignavecchia Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and greenish accents. The bouquet is a bit off, with a spike of acetic acid that brings to mind my days in the darkroom, mingled with some citric notes, which gain in intensity with swishing. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich almost lemony citrus fruit supported by slightly greenish tannins from the grapes and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's a bit disjointed, and lumbering.

Score: None immediately, and this begs explanation.
One of the advantages of being just two in an absolutely unhurried tasting is that one can return to bottle even after several hours, and we did: the acetic acid is mostly gone. The citric notes are there, joined by dusky honeydew melon and green apricot acidity, while the palate becomes more languid and comes together more. In short, it developed tremendously. Of the three Castellari Bergaglio wines, it remains the least interesting however; at the most it inches up to 2 stars (barely).

Castello di Tassarolo
Castello di Tassarolo SS Tassarolo "S" Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents laced with gooseberry, something I don't generally associate with Cortese, which with further swishing becomes more sage, and some honeydew melon with slight sweetish overtones, and hints of sweaty blonde. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony fruit supported by clean citric acidity that flows into a fairly long lemony finish with some bitter undertones that emerge as all else fades. It's a pleasant food wine that will work quite well with grilled fish, and also with quickly cooked white meats, and will be nice at a cookout too, possibly with moderately spiced oriental as well.
2 stars

Castello di Tassarolo SS Castello di Tassarolo Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with minerality and some pine needles mingled with hints of sage, and, with swishing, some citric acidity. Nice balance and fairly bright. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish minerality supported by strong mineral acidity and some hints of pine needle, which flow into a clean mineral finish. Pleasant in a rather scrappy acidic key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you instead prefer softer sweeter more fruit driven whites you may find it disconcerting. Assuming you don't, it will work well with flavorful fish, including shellfish, and also will be a nice accompaniment to fried fish or white meats. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Castello di Tassarolo SS No Sulphites Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections; it's darker than most of the other wines. The bouquet provides an equally sharp break, with aromas that bring a cider mill to mind, mingled with ripe not too crisp delicious apples. Nothing like the others, and the overall impression is tired. The palate matches the nose, with moderate acidity and tired minerality with underlying metallic bitterness that flows into a fairly bitter finish. It's older than it should be.
1 star

Castello di Tassarolo Vigneto Alborina Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellowish rim. The bouquet is powerful, and slightly green, with heather and slight cedar mingled with some savory accents; there's a fair amount of depth to it, and also pleasing spice from grapes. On the palate it's softer than I expected, and ample, with rather generic white berry fruit supported by moderate sweetness and slight acidity, which flow into a soft finish. It flags, and to be frank was a disappointment.
1 star

Cazzulo Luigi e GB Tenuta San Lorenzo
Cazzulo Luigi e GB Tenuta San Lorenzo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale slightly greenish brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gunflint bitterness mingled with minerality and some greenish citrus. On the palate it's tight, with bright minerality supported by bitter accents and citric acidity that flows into a clean bright citric finish. Lively, in a tomboyish scrappy key, and will work well with fried meats or fish, and also with succulent grilled fish -- salmon comes to mind --, and I would be tempted to serve it with white meats as well, especially outdoors. In short, versatile, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Eredi di Guido Gerolamo SS Antico Podere di Vignavecchia
Via Circonvallazione, 4
Bosio, 15060 (AL)
Tel: 0143 684182

Eredi di Guido Gerolamo SS Antico Podere di Vignavecchia Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish honeydew melon mingled with sage and underlying citron acidity; as it opens brambly heather also emerges. Nice balance. On the palate it's rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by greenish acidity and some bitterness that flows into a clean slightly bitter citric finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with fish or creamy white meats, and will also be good with fried meats or fish; there is a hint of sweetness to it, and I would be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced oriental dishes as well.
2 stars

Ghio Roberto - Vigneti Piemontemare
Via Circonvallazione, 3
Bosio, 15060 (AL)
Tel: 0143 684117

Ghio Roberto Vigneto Pian lazzarino Gavi di Bosio Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and atypical, with aromas that bring iron and cider to mind. The palate is also a bit off, and tired, with acidity that is bright but laced with apple flavors that again bring cider to mind.
1 star

Guido Matteo
Guido Matteo SNC - La Smilla La Smilla Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with honeydew melon supported by some sage and delicate sweetness, with some mineral acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with lemony acidity and honeydew melon fruit supported by greenish accents and bitterness that carry into a slightly greenish bitter finish. It's a pleasant food wine that will work quite well with grilled or roasted fish, and also with fried fish or meats, and I would be tempted to serve it with creamy fish chowders as well. If you like the style, which is rather scrappy, you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Guido Matteo SNC - La Smilla La Smilla Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense and a bit atypical, with honeydew melon mingled with gooseberry and some sage, also lemony citric acidity, with heather of a sun-drenched field as well. Interesting, in a concentrated key, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full and rich, with considerably more savory minerality than I expected, and a rather languid feel to it that flows into a clean savory mineral finish. Pleasant, in a big-boned key, and I found myself much enjoying its minerality.
2 stars

Guido Matteo SNC La Smilla I Bergi Gavi DOCG 2007
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite aromatic for a Cortese, with greenish floral accents that aren't gooseberry, but do have a vegetal component to them (something from the yeasts, perhaps) and also some almost candied green apricot. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish apricot fruit supported by bitter greenish acidity and a slight yeasty feel that brings lees to mind; it comes across as having been quite concentrated (though not really overripe), and left on the lees with battonage for a time. It's particular, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you do have to like the style. I found it not tired, but not as lively as I would have expected a 2007 (which is a fine vintage) to be, either.
1 star

Guido Natalino - La Caplana
Via Circonvallazione 4
BOSIO, 15060 (AL)
Tel: 0143 684182

Guido Natalino SAS La Caplana Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some honeydew melon mingled with minerality and spice from grape. Pleasant t sniff. On the palate it's full, with bright citric fruit supported by greenish lemon acidity and by some underlying bitterness that flows into a long bitter lemony finish. Pleasant, in a slightly scrappy key, and will drink well with fried meats or fish, and also with grilled fish or creamy white meats; it will also be very pleasant with frittatas or other egg based dishes of that sort, and I would be tempted to serve it with mild to moderately spiced oriental dishes.
2 stars

I Moncalvi
I Moncalvi Vigne di Rovereto Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable gunflint mingled with some citric acidity and rock dust. An extremely mineral wine. On the palate it's equally mineral, with savory sea salt and acidity that flow into a clean bright decidedly salty mineral finish. Pleasant, and if you like this style, which is far removed from softer or oaky fruit driven wines, you will enjoy it very much; it will work well with fish, but also with white meats.
2 stars

I Moncalvi Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and minerality supported by some citric acidity and hints of graphite bitterness, with some greenish notes as well. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with intense greenish acidity as well that flows into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, though in a world far removed from soft luscious Chardonnay; it will drink well with grilled or roasted succulent fish, creamy white meats, and also has the acidity necessary to work with fried fish or meats. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Il Pareto
Il Pareto Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with citrus and honeydew melon mingled with green apricot acidity and some heather. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony acidity supported by minerality and some sea salt, which flow into a clean bright lemony finish. Not quite sucking a lemon, but in that direction, and if you like this sort of tart wine you will enjoy it very much. But, again, we're far removed from sweeter fruit driven whites. It will be ideal with fried meats or fish (and vegetables) and I would also be tempted to serve it at a cookout, especially one featuring fish.
2 stars

Il Poggio
Il Poggio Il Poggio Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is decidedly different, with butterscotch covering the fruit -- it's barrel fermented (I think) and suffered wood's influence -- with some greenish rather citric underpinning. On the palate it's also colored by wood, with butterscotch laced lemon fruit that gains direction from lemony acidity, and flows into a sour lemon finish with some savory accents whose character is again due to wood-fruit interaction. If you like oaked white wines you will enjoy it, but I don't think Cortese takes well to wood -- wood overshadows it.
1 star

Bergaglio Piercarlo
Bergaglio Piercarlo Feudo del Selvago Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some sage mingled with greenish accents and lemony acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality supporting bitter accents and some citric mineral acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish. It's quite approachable and will drink very well with foods, ranging from fish or cheese based antipasti though grilled fish, creamy white meats, and I would also be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced oriental dishes. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Il Vignale
Il Vignale Vigne Alte Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more swishing brings up some heather and hints of iodine, with slight saffron as well; it brings to mind a house shut tight. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with salt-laced citrus fruit supported by savory acidity that flows into a clean savory finish. Approachable, as a food wine, and will drink well with fish or white meats.
2 stars

La Chiara
La Chiara La Chiara Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is greenish, with heather and some cedar from grapes, laced with honeydew melon and sage. Haunting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich savory citric fruit with tart honeydew melon acidity that flows into a clean savory finish. It will drink quite well with cheese or egg based antipasti, also with grilled or roasted fish, and will also work well with creamy white meats work on this. It grew upon me.
2 stars

La Ghibellina
La Ghibellina Mainin Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale slightly greenish brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with floral accents and some citric acidity, supported by slight lactic acid. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively citric and mineral acidity supporting lemon fruit that flows into a distinctly mineral finish. Quick to write, but pleasant to drink in a scrappy key, and will work quite well with fried fish or meat, and also with rich creamy dishes; it will also be nice as an aperitif of you like the style, which is quite palate cleansing.
2 stars

La Ghibellina Altius Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish acidity and some minerality, but not much else; it feels incomplete somehow. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony fruit supported by clean savory lemony acidity, which flows into a clean fairly rich slightly savory finish. It's fairly direct, and I found it a bit odd.
1 star

La Mesma
La Mesma Azienda Agricola SS Etichetta Nera Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some honeydew melon and fairly intense savory accents mingled with some sage. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with rather languid slightly greenish citrus supported by greenish tannic accents from grapes and underlying mineral bitterness that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's quite approachable, and will drink well with succulent grilled fish or creamy white meats, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats or fish.
2 stars

La Mesma Azienda Agricola SS Etichetta Gialla Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up honeysuckle mingled with some honey and tropical fruit, a mix that isn't absolutely typical for Cortese; with more swishing some smoky minerality also emerges. On the palate it's ample, with lemony citrus fruit supported by lemony acidity that flows into a clean lemony finish. It's more typical on the palate than the nose, and will in any case work well with rich foods that beg a bright acidic white to clear the palate between bites.
1 star

La Mesma Azienda Agricola SS Metotodo Classico Gavi DOCG 2007
This is a Metodo Classico (what the English say they developed before Dom Perignon), and is pale brassy white with greenish reflections, bubbling up in the glass before settling to a fine fairly continuous perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, and savory, with sea salt and wet bread crumbs mingled with gunflint that becomes much stronger with swishing. On the palate it's ample and savory, with a much softer sparkle than the other sparkling wine we tasted, which was a charmat pressurized in an autoclave; flowing into a clean rather savory mineral finish. It's fairly direct, and feels young -- is young -- and will work well as an aperitif or with creamy dishes.
1 star

La Raia
La Raia Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Fairly bright brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeysuckle and some floral accents that are laced with cut flowers and greenish sage; it's not strictly typical of Cortese, but pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral-laced lemony fruit supported by strong mineral bitterness and some greenish accents that flow into a long bitter finish with peppery accents. I found it a little more settled than I might have liked.
1 star

La Raia Pisé Gavi DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit unusual, with sweet gooseberry that has something candied to it, supported by heather, spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit that's supported by greenish slightly brambly tannins and by a degree of underlying savory bitterness that flows into a long fairly tart finish. It's ample, but lumbering, rather than graceful, and I found myself wishing it were tighter and more controlled. This said, because of its acidity it will work well with creamier risotti and other similar dishes.
1 star

La Toledana
La Toledana SS Raccolto Tardivo Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy greenish gold with very slight petillance that leaves a patch of white in the center of the glass. The bouquet is fairly rich, with white berry fruit mingled with slight butterscotch and some greenish accents, with underlying savory spice. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with moderately intense lemon fruit supported by moderate citric acidity and some mineral accents that flow into a clean bitter finish.
1 star

La Toledana SS Toledana Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Fairly intense yellowish brassy gold with yellow reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly greenish, with apple skins and hints of cider mingled with sage and very green honeydew melon, with underlying fairly sweet spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish lemon fruit supported by mineral acidity that has some gunflint and vegetal accents, and flows into a clean sour lemony finish that gains a degree of languidity from some underlying sweetness. It is approachable, and will drink well with grilled fish, vegetable based main course dishes along the lines of a spinach soufflé, and also egg or cheese based dishes.
1 star

La Toledana Castello Toledana Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is unusual for a Cortese, with considerable floral accents that bring Malvasia to mind, but are likely a yeast-wine interaction, and some underlying greenish minerality and hints of smoke. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony fruit supported by smooth citron acidity, and by a fair amount of glycerin that adds to the fullness, and it all flows into a clean citric finish. It's pleasant, in a rich key, and tough clearly past the first flour of youth is maturing nicely, and will work well with creamy risotti or pasta dishes, be they fish, vegetable, or meat based, and will also be nice with fish in general, or with fried foods. In short, versatile, and will also age nicely for at least 3-5 more years.
2 stars

La Zerba
La Zerba Terra Rossa Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with citric accents and some sea salt mingled with slight honeydew melon. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with a very slight bitter sparkle supported by rather languid lemony fruit and underlying mineral bitterness, while the acidity that provides direction is citric. It's quite approachable, in an open-faced sunny sort of way, and will work well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, and also with legume or vegetable based soups, and simple meat or fish dishes; because of its relative sweetness I would also be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced oriental dishes.
2 stars

La Zerba Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeydew melon supported by some vegetal accents, sage and clean bright bitter minerality with hints of gunflint. On the palate it's bright, with lively citric fruit supported by gunflint minerality and bitterness, which flow into a clean bright lemony finish. Pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif with fish, cheese or egg based antipasti, and also with creamy first course dishes, including scampi risotto, or with grilled fish and it also has the wherewithal to stand up to fried meats or fish. Pleasant in a wide-eyed smiling adolescent sort of way, and I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Marne
Tel: 0143 681 158

Le Marne Marne Bianco Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory citrus fruit that has some greenish accents and also displays hints of sage. On the palate it's unusual, in that it's quite savory -- one can almost feel salt crystals tumbling over the tongue -- with lemony acidity to provide a counterpoint to the savor. It's quite particular, bringing to mind salt marshes and hot summer days, and is something that you will like if you like the style, but isn't for everyone. If you like it, it will work quite well with rich, fatty fish, creamy white meats, or fried meats or fish (with vegetables). In other words, in occasions in which you want a zesty accompaniment.
2 stars

Le Marne Marne Oro - Tre Fioei Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and golden highlights; white rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory accents mingled with lemon and greenish honeydew melon, together with some sage. On the palate it's full, and quite savory, with moderately intense mineral laced salty lemon fruit supported by savor and citric acidity that flow into a fairly long salty lemon finish. It's fairly direct, and I found myself wishing that it displayed greater brightness and richness of fruit than it does.
1 star

Malgrà SPA
Malgrà SPA Poggio Basco Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and yellow body paling to white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and decidedly greenish, with green apricots mingled with green apricot acidity and gunflint minerality and some wood smoke. On the palate it's ample and rich, with rather languid citric fruit supported by gunflint bitterness and fairly rich lemony acidity that flows into a clean bitter finish. Quite approachable, in a fairly sweet but far from fruit driven oaky whites key, and will drink nicely with fish or whit meats. I found it growing upon me.
1 star

Picollo Ernesto
Picollo Ernesto di Picollo Gianlorenzo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with gunflint minerality and some sage at the outset; more swishing brings up some honeydew melon and apricot as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony acidity supported by mineral bitterness and the slightest of sparkles that adds a peppery accent to the wine, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Quite approachable in a distinctly non-Chardonnay key, and will drink well with rich cheesy or egg based antipasti, with creamy risotti or fish based pasta dishes, and also with grilled fish or creamy white meats; the acidity is sufficient to work well with fried fish or meats too. Worth seeking out if you like the style; expect it to go quickly, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Sebaste Mauro
Sebaste Mauro Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with honeydew melon and bright lemony acidity supported by some greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's moderately intense, with green apricot fruit supported by moderate lemony acidity and some bitterness that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's not as rich on the palate as I might have expected, and I found myself wanting more from the fruit, though the bitterness of the minerality is nice.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Pestarino Alvio
Cascina Barcanello 7
15060 Capriata D'Orba (Al)
Tel: 0143/467282

Pestarino Alvio Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively greenish accents and honeydew melon mingled with green apricot and some spice from grape, also heather and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with rich slightly greenish citric fruit supported by lemony minerality that flows into a clean bright mineral finish. Quite approachable in a far from chardonnay key, and will drink very well with grilled fish, creamy white meats, and egg or cheese based dishes; it will also be nice with fried fish or meats. Worth seeking out, and expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Spinola Andrea
Spinola Andrea Tenuta Massimiliana Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly pungent, with considerable gunflint and some spice, supported by some citric acidity, though gunflint comes to the fore. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with gunflint again to the fore, supporting bitterness and not much in the way of acidity nor other fruit. More minerality and the overall impression is fairly tired.
1 star

Tenuta Olim Bauda
Tenuta Olim Bauda Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and gold rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gunflint and some greenish heather mingled with slight wood smoke and savory accents with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample and softer than many, with fairly bright minerality supported by citric acidity and by some glycerin that imparts fullness, and flows into a clean bright fairly bitter finish. It's fairly direct, and approachable, a wine that will work well with fish based pasta dishes or risotti, or simply cooked white meats too, and also with legume based dishes.
1 star

Tenuta La Giustiniana
Tenuta La Giustiniana Montessora Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with heather and minerality mingled with honeydew melon, and a fair amount of alcohol. Pleasant. On the palate it's powerful, with rich moderately sweet lemony fruit supported by greenish tannins from the grapes and slightly greenish lemony acidity that flows into a fairly long almost brambly lemony finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will work quite well with rich fish based pasta dishes, creamy risotti, succulent grilled or roasted fish, and also creamy white meats; given its verve it will also be a good bet with fried meats or fish, and I would be tempted to serve it with mild to moderately spiced Chinese dishes as well. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Tenuta La Giustiniana Lugarara Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellowish white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with clean honeydew melon mingled with some green apricot acidity and delicate floral accents. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright savory sweet honeydew melon supported by some lemony acidity that flows into a decidedly savory finish. Pleasant, though a bit odd given the contrast between sweet and salt, and will work quite well with egg or cheese based dishes, from antipasti through frittatas and things such as quiches; it has a cheeky smile to it.
2 stars

Tenuta Nuova Ca' Da Meo di Magda Pedrini
Via Pratolungo, 163
Gavi, 15066 (AL)

Tenuta Nuova Cà da Meo Magda Pedrini Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory floral accents and some honeydew melon and honeysuckle, mingled with slight minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense fairly sweet honeydew melon supported by decidedly savory accents and bitterness that gradually emerges in the finish. It's fairly direct, a food wine that will drink well with grilled fish or creamy white meats, and will go quickly. I would also be tempted to serve it at a cookout, especially one built around grilled fish.
1 star

Tenuta Nuova Cà da Meo La Piacentina Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly sweet, and bordering on overripe, with honeydew melon mingled with bruised apple and hints of brown sugar. Not as interesting as some. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich honeydew melon supported by brambly bitterness and sour green apricot acidity that flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's fairly direct, and a bit settled; I found myself wishing the fruit were crisper and tighter.
1 star

Tenuta San Pietro
Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo SRL SanPietro Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellowish white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is a bit pungent on the outset; swishing brings up heather and some honeydew melon supported by savory accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by quite a bit of glycerin and warm citric acidity that flows into a long lemony finish. Direct, and rather tart, but pleasant in this key, and will work quite well with creamy dishes, ranging from fish or vegetable risotti through frittatas and quiches, and will also do a nice job of balancing fried fish or meat. In short a good wine that will be perfect in the proper setting.
2 stars

Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Il Mandorlo Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pungent at first swish, opening to reveal honeydew melon and some savory accents, with underlying minerality as well. On the palate it's fairly direct, with sweetish honeydew melon supported by lively lemony acidity and a salty underpinning that gains verve from peppery accents, leading into a fairly savory finish with tart lemon overtones. Versatile food wine that will work well with flavorful grilled fish, and will also be nice with creamy first course dishes, from cream soups (cream of cauliflower comes to mind…) through risotto.
1 star

Tenuta San Pietro in Tassarolo Gorrina Gavi di Tassarolo Gavi DOCG 2007
Lemony yellow with brilliant brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with gunflint minerality and some spice mingled with wood smoke and airy spice that derives (I think) from the yeasts. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and soft, with considerable minerality and some greenish accents, but not much in the way of fruit -- some mineral acidity -- and underlying sweetness. It comes across as trying too hard, and is a bit too settled for me.
1 star

Tacchino Luigi
Via Martiri della Benedicta 26
Castelletto D'Orba, 15060 (AL)

Tacchino Luigi Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sugary honeydew melon supported by airy spice from grapes, heather, and some savory minerality. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with rich honeydew melon supported by slightly savory acidity that flows into a fairly long tart honeydew melon finish. Direct, but pleasant and quite approachable in a fairly sweet key (it's nowhere near as sweet as a blush wine, however), and if you like the style it will work well as an aperitif.
1 star

Tenuta Santa Seraffa
Tenuta Santa Seraffa Le Colombare Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rich, with heather laced with floral accents and honeydew melon, and some greenish vegetal eucalyptus accents with some underlying bitterness. On the palate it's full, with fairly savory honeydew melon supported by tart green apricot acidity that flows into a fairly tart finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant in an approachable, fairly direct key, and will drink well with creamy legume-based soups, risotti (fish or vegetable based), and also with succulent fish; given it's not being completely crisp -- there's a little residual sugar, though less than in some), I would also be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced Chinese or Thai dishes.
2 stars

Villa Sparina
Villa Sparina Etichetta Gialla Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish floral accents and some heather, and sea salt, supported by slight minerality and bitterness, and a degree of cut flower pungency as well. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly sweet white berry fruit supported by moderate acidity that flows into a warm savory mineral finish with tart apricot overtones. It's a bit laxer than some, but approachable, and if you like the style -- i..e. are not drawn to bracingly crisp wines -- will enjoy it; it will drink well creamy soups and first course dishes, and also with egg or cheese based dishes.
2 stars

Villa Sparina Monterotondo Gavi di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gunflint minerality laced with lemony accents, slightly sour honeydew melon, some sea salt, and sweetness too. It gives an impression of concentration and very ripe grapes. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with apricot laced honeydew melon that's fairly sweet, supported by savory accents and some acidity that flow into a fairly tart finish that gains definition from emergent bitterness. Direct, and if you like softer sweeter (relatively speaking) whites, it will work well as an aperitif, and will also age well for 3-5 years at least. It feels as if the grapes were quite ripe, and to be honest I would have preferred more acidity (i.e. grapes harvested a little less ripe), which would have resulted in a tighter wine. But if you like the style you will enjoy it..
2 stars

Valditerra Laura
Valditerra Laura Vigna del Lago Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit odd, with a tartness that brings the juice of a Granny Smith apple to mind, mingled with hints of hot iron and savory accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich, fairly sweet honeydew melon supported by ample sweetish apricot acidity and sea salt that flow into a broad fairly savory finish that is also fairly sweet. It's not loose, but relaxed, and ample, and I found myself wishing it were tighter.
1 star

Valditerra Laura Tenuta il Merlassino Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweet honeydew melon that gains definition from some floral notes and slight sea salt; there's not much acidity. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with warm fairly sweet lemon fruit supported by lemony acidity and a slight undercurrent of bitterness that provides a counterpoint to the sweetness, and continues into a fairly long savory finish. It's ample, and approachable is a softer sweeter (relatively speaking) key, and will work well as an aperitif if you like the style, which is fairly direct. Also with creamy dishes ranging from risotti though fish and white meats, and I think it will also work well with moderately spiced Oriental foods.
1 star

San Matteo
San Matteo Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with minerality and heather mingled with some sea salt and pleasant floral accents. Nice balance in a slightly crisper key than many of the wines from the second day. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright honeydew melon supported by lemony acidity and slight savory accents, which flow into a clean tart rather savory finish. The palate is a little sweeter than the nose suggests, and the wine is quite approachable, in this sweeter key; it will work nicely as an aperitif or with creamy dishes.
2 stars

San Matteo Le Parodine Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with considerable heather and some floral accents, supported by some minerality and underlying citric acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rather soft honeydew melon fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by a peppery sparkle (for want of a better term) that adds crisp verve and flows into a fairly sweet finish that softens as the pepper fades. It's a bit unusual, and the peppery sting is something you will either like or not; if you do it will work well with creamy dishes, from risotto through fish or meat, and for some reason I found myself thinking of chipped beef.
1 star

San Matteo Gavi DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish tart apricot acidity and pleasant underlying minerality; nice balance and refreshing to sniff. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with greenish honeydew melon supported by gunflint laced minerality and clean mineral acidity that flow into an ample mineral laced finish. Pleasant in a slightly more mature key, though it's between strides, and will I think improve over the next couple of years. It will drink well with creamy pasta dishes and risotti, and also work well with simple grilled fish or white meats.
2 stars

La Bollina S.P.A.
Via Monterotondo, 58
15069 Serravalle Scrivia
Tel: 0143 61984

La Bollina Società Agricola SRL Fiolò Gavi DOCG 2008
Brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite floral, with hints of sweetness, and a bit unusual in the context of Cortese -- it brings a Malvasia to mind, almost, but is more likely the result of a particular yeast, and more swishing reveals some smoky savory notes. On the palate it's full, and fairly crisp, with bright tart slightly greenish apricot fruit supported by tart acidity that flows into a long warm tart finish. Quite pleasant and approachable if you like this far-from-oaky-white style, a food wine that will work well with egg or cheese based dishes, and also with succulent grilled or roasted fish; given its acidity it will also be a good bet with fried foods.
2 stars

La Bollina Società Agricola SRL Soasì Gavi DOCG 2007
Brassy golden yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory notes and some gunflint supported by minerality and slight lemony acidity. On the palate it's it's ample, with rich fairly soft lemony fruit nicely balanced by minerality and sea salt, and supported by citric acidity that flows into a clean bright citric finish. Pleasant, and the additional year of bottle age confers considerably more maturity.
2 stars

La Scolca
La Scolca is one of Gavi's historic wineries, and on the international stage it is probably the best known Gavi producer. However, it does not belong to the Gavi Consorzio, and therefore Carlo Macchi and I drove over to the estate in the afternoon, for what I thought would be a quick presentation. It turned out to be much more, several hours pleasantly spent conversing while we worked though many wines, including some truly impressive older vintages, which we all continued to enjoy after Carlo and I had finished taking notes.

La Scolca Gavi del Comune di Gavi Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with slight greenish highlights; the bouquet is bright, with considerable minerality and some sage, supported by deft acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by brisk lemony acidity, and by slightly dusky bitterness that flows into a long clean slightly bitter citric finish. Pleasant in a brisk, lively key, and quite approachable, will work well as an aperitif or with grilled fish or white meats. If you like the style, which is tarter than many Gavis, you will enjoy it very much; expect it to age well too, for 3-5 years.
88-90

La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi Bianco Secco Etichetta Nera Gavi DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter sage and herbs supported by gunflint and some minerality, and , as it opens, greenish apricot and citrus. Much more intense than the base, and impressive. On the palate it's rich, with powerful lemony fruit supported by clean bright citric acidity with a rather languid underpinning that flows into a clean bright citric finish. Quite elegant, and will age well for at least 5-8 years. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting; terrific freshness.
91

La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi D'Antan Gavi DOCG 2000
Yes, this is the current vintage. Brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is quite elegant, and beautifully mature, with considerable gunflint supported by greenish accents and spice; it displays considerable harmony, and as it opens the greenish accents develop into almond fuzz, walnut meats, and sea salt. Most impressive. On the palate it's rich, and quite delicate, with clean bright lemony fruit supported by deft acidity that leads into a clean, bright, slightly greenish citric finish. Time has melded and softened it, bringing subtlety and finesse. A beautiful wine to drink as an aperitif, or better yet far from the table.
92

La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi Etichetta Nera Gavi DOC 1989
Pale brassy green with white rim. One would guess it is 2-3 years older than the 2008, not 19. Impressive. The bouquet is equally impressive, with considerable gunflint supported by minerality and spice, as well as tart lemon and hints of Granny Smith apple and bruised Delicious apple. Astonishing freshness. On the palate it's even more impressive, with terrific freshness and citric acidity supported by clean deft minerality. A beautiful wine and a fantastic display of finesse with beautiful balance of savoriness and acidity that leads to terrific harmony; it's fresher and more elegant than the 08. And while one would expect the greater elegance considering that 1989 was a spectacular vintage, one wouldn't expect the freshness. Wow.
94-5.

A note: This is the first time (I think) that I have said wow in a tasting note. The 89 Gavi Etichetta Nera shows several things:

• Cortese, if planted in the proper spot and properly farmed, doesn't need any assistance from other varietals, be they national or international.
• Cortese ages beautifully, though to age this way it does need to have a degree of acidity at the outset.
• Cortese is capable of terrific finesse when properly treated.

La Scolca Gavi Metodo Tradizionale Classico 2006
Pale papery white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with breadcrumbs and some greenish accents mingled with gunflint. Nice balance. On the palate it's full fairly rich, and quite soft, with lively citric acidity supported by sea salt and creamy sparkle that flow into a clean slightly greenish peppery finish. Quite approachable and will work well as an aperitif or with fish throughout the meal.
2 stars

Soldati La Scolca D'Antan Spumante di Qualità 1997
Again, this is the current vintage. Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage and greenish reflections. Elegant bouquet, with clean slightly green minerality and deft spice laced with almond skin and some walnut meats, and underlying wet breadcrumbs. Tremendously elegant. On the palate it's beautiful, with rich creamy gunflint-laced lemony fruit supported by some vanilla, and one could flounder along with other superlatives, but a simple magnificent will suffice.
93-95

Soldati La Scolca D'Antan Vino Spumante di Qualità Rosato Brut 1997
This also has 5% Pinot Nero, and is pale salmon with white rim and fine constant perlage. The bouquet is rich, with breadcrumbs and spice supported by minerality and some bitterness. Quick to write, but very nice, and harmonious too. On the palate it's full and fresh, with clean bright minerality and deft acidity supported by sparkle and slight hints of red berry fruit that flow into a finish that lasts and lasts. Very impressive, and one of the finest rosés I've had.
93-5

And there we have it.
My Sincerest Thanks to Carlo Macchi, for inviting me (his impressions of the 2008 Gavi, in Italian), and to Mauro Delfino, Director of the Consorzio del Gavi, for hosting me.