Badia a Coltibuono: A vertical, or rather a selection of older vintages of Chianti Classico, and also a vertical of Sangioveto

From the latest issue of Cosa Bolle in Pentola:

Badia A Coltibuono is one of the older estates in Chianti Classico, and was one of the first to bottle wines -- they still have a very few bottles from the 40s (the occupying Germans drank everything pre-1945), and also bottles from the 50s and 60s. A few years ago I was fortunate enough to be invited to a tasting at the Badia that began with the 1946 vintage, so when Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti told me she'd be pouring a number of older vintages this year at Vinitaly, I made plans to attend.

This time she was pouring the 1965, 1970, 1979 and 1995 Chianti Classico Riservas, and before we get to them some background is in order. Like most Tuscan estates, until well after WWII Badia a Coltibuono was farmed through mezzadria, a share cropping system in which the land of the estate was divided into farms, or poderi, each consisting of farm houses and the necessary other buildings (haybarns, stables and such), fields, and vineyards. The poderi were worked by one or more families, and were pretty much self sufficient, producing everything the residents needed to live. But not money, and therefore the mezzadri paid Emanuela's family in kind, with a share of the crops.

This share included wine: The residents of each podere harvested the vineyards they tended, and made the wine in the podere's cellar, under the supervision of someone from the Badia. With the fermentation complete, the Stucchi Prinetti family's share was transferred to the cellars of the Badia, where it went into huge, ancient (centuries old) chestnut casks. And there it stayed: though the family did bottle some Chianti Classico Riserva each year (they didn't begin to bottle Chianti D'Annata until the 1970s), when Maurizio Castelli joined the staff as Badia a Coltibuono's enologist in 1980, he found cask after chestnut cask full of old wine. Good old wine, because the cool dampness of the cellar was such that the wood was in perfect condition, but he had been hired to help modernize the Badia's winemaking, and one of the first orders of business was to replace the old chestnut barrels with oak, which yields wines that are much more approachable. So all of the old vintages were bottled in 1981, and a significant percentage of the bottles went into Badia a Coltibuono's vintage archive.

And now they offer a fascinating look into the past. Everything was different then. Though Sangiovese was the primary varietal, the old wines also contain the white grapes that no longer go into Chianti. Rather than await polyphenolic ripeness (which helps insure concentration), people harvested when sugar concentrations reached a certain level, or -- if they didn't have the tool for measuring grape sweetness -- when the grapes seemed sweet enough to yield about 12% alcohol. There was no destemming and therefore everything went into the fermentation tanks -- seeds, skins, stems (with their vibrantly green tannins) and all. There was no temperature control, and fermentation was empiric. And finally, the wine, which was quite acidic by modern standards, went into chestnut, which -- though the wood was old and therefore didn't contribute much -- yields tannins that have a different, more vegetal feel to them than do the sweet tannins released by oak.

In short, trying to compare the wines made then with those made more recently is rather like trying to compare a one of those beautiful single-cylinder tractors from the 1930s with a modern high-tech tractor with air conditioned cab and living room-worthy stereo system. Yes, they both have four wheels, but... Looking at them for what they are is instead fascinating.

As I said, you will find the latest vertical on Cosa Bolle in Pentola. Here, reprinted, is the last Badia a Coltibuono vertical I was fortunate enough to attend in 2002:

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 1946
This was bottled immediately because the Germans had drunk up everything when they occupied the Badia during the War. It's pale garnet with almandine brick overtones. The bouquet is still very much alive, with an initial rush of leathery balsam that brings an old leather book binding to mind mingled with sea salt and some iodine; swishing brings up dusky cherry fruit and more balsam, while the leather smoothes some, and with time the balsam gains in intensity and hints of spicy tobacco emerge, going hand in had with the balsam. Beautiful, in an elderly key that brings to mind faded lace. On the palate it shoes its age to a greater degree, with rather tart leafy overtones that mingle with sea salt and dust, with considerable very sour cherry tartness that resolves into warm hot steel and saddle leather with tobacco overtones. Interesting; it's not a wine to sip far from the table, and is clearly long on years, but still has a story to tell and will drink well with hearty flavorful stews, for example venison or wild boar. It has held better than many humans of like age. Lots of tannins, in part from the stems -- the fermentation was in the individual homesteads, in upright wooden tanks, with the stems.
2 stars

Note: The 46 was entirely from coltura promiscua (the traditional mixed farming system, with rows of grape vines mixed with other crops), because they were planning to plant vineyards but hadn't yet. The subsequent wines were from specialized vineyards, in other words vineyards planted entirely to vine, without other crops between the rows:

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1959
Deep almandine ruby with Moroccan leather and almandine overtones. The bouquet is rather pungent, with spicy saddle leather that mingles with some iodine and sea salt, and underlying wet leaves; a swish brings up a certain amount of acidity and pleasant minty overtones, while leaf tobacco also emerges. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's surprisingly graceful, with fairly tart cherry fruit supported by lemony acidity and warm smooth tannic overtones that are rather dusty and lead into a clean dusty tannic finish with bitter brambly graphite overtones. One can taste the tannins from the stems, which provide the bitterness, but the overall effect is graceful and there's still quite a bit of life to it. As with the 46 it's a wine that will drink better with foods than on its own, and indeed will be a nice counterpoint to a flavorful stew. In short, if you find a bottle that has been well kept, enjoy it.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1962
Almandine ruby with black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather musty, with wet leaves and well soaked leather at first sniff, and also some balsam. Swishing brings up more of the same, with the leather increasing and taking on penetrating smoky spicy overtones, and also some leaf tobacco that gains support from some acidity. On the palate it is faded, with some sour notes but not much fruit, supported by some tannins that have a dusty feel to them and lead into a bitter finish with iodine overtones. Geriatric, but then again it 41 years old.

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1966
Almandine with black highlights and almandine leather in the rim. The bouquet is clearly elderly, with pungent smoky spice that mingles with leaf tobacco and some acidity that rises up to tickle the nose. On the palate it's livelier than one might have expected from the nose, with some tart cherry fruit that gives way to balsam and sea salt wit underlying tobacco leaf bitterness, and it all flows into a clean tannic finish with strong bitter India ink overtones -- the stems of the grapes providing their contribution. It's interesting, and though it's not a wine for a casual wine drinker, it does have something to say and will drink well with a hearty stew.
1 star

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1968
Deep orange almandine with black reflections and Moroccan leather rim. The bouquet is clearly well along in years, with spice and leaf tobacco that mingle some slightly greenish overtones. On the palate it's lighter than some of the others, with sea salt and balsam supported by tobaccoey tannins that lead into a clean bitter finish. Though there isn't as much fruit, it has a certain grace, and also a degree of charm; because it is lighter it will work well with grilled meats.
2 stars

An Observation: The wines of the late 50s through 60s wines are cut from the same cloth. The 46 is distinct; because of its longer bottle age and its having been produced through coltura promiscua.


Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1971
A historic vintage. Deep black almandine with black highlights and almandine rim; by comparison with the older wines it's livelier. The bouquet is clean, and delicate, with some lacy berry fruit that mingles with slight balsam and hints of spice and salty leaf tobacco that become stronger with more swishing. Deft, and a fair amount going on; it gives an impression of distance. On the palate it's full and quite rich, surprisingly so considering its age, with delicate slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean dusty tannins that have warm bitter overtones and lead into a warm clean finish. Elegant, and though it's obviously not a young wine it still has quite a bit to say, and will work well with a steak or light stew. If you find a bottle, do enjoy it.
88

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1976
A dreadful vintage, and since Ingegner Stucchi had the best cask set aside every year to bottle as riserva, theirs was the only Riserva made in all of Chianti Classico. The Consorzio had to special order the Galli for them. The wine is almandine with pale black highlights and Moroccan leather rim paling to white. The bouquet is tired, and this cones as no surprise considering the vintage, with musty slightly smoky penetrating leaf tobacco mingled with damp underbrush and underlying saltiness. On the palate it's thin, with hints of cherry fruit supported by bitter rather evanescent tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish with slight sour cherry fruit overtones and alcoholic notes that rise up into the back of the throat. It has, to put it simply, faded, though the way it has faded shows that there was something there to begin with.


Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1977
Almandine with pale ruby notes and black highlights, Moroccan leather rim. The bouquet is unusual, with a rush of menthol at first sniff that brings Vicks Vaporub to mind underlain by balsam and sea salt; swishing brings forth more mint and some leaf tobacco, but the mint remains paramount. On the palate it's full, and surprisingly smooth, with delicate cherry fruit that has slight tart raspberry overtones and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight minty overtones and lead into a clean warm cherry laced finish with (again) balsam and mint. All this talk of mint may seem off-putting, but the wine manages considerable grace, albeit in an elderly, lacy key, and will drink nicely with succulent white meats.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1980
Deep black almandine ruby with black highlights and Moroccan leather rim. The bouquet is a bit off, with old wet leather that has been soaking for a long time mingled with sea salt and some cedar, hints of acidity, and slightly sour leaf tobacco. No fruit to speak of, and not much depth. On the palate it's mouthfilling, though oddly flat; there's a presence that expands off the tongue to press against the cheeks, but there isn't much in the way of fruit to it, and it's all supported by clean balsam laced bitter tannins that lead into a warm, balsamic finish. It feels like the soul is missing, in a way. Maurizio says the grapes didn't ripen.
1 star

Note: From here on, the wines are Sangiovese in purezza

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1982
Deep black almandine ruby with black highlights, some ruby highlights, and almandine rim with Moroccan leather overtones. The bouquet is unexpected, with hot steel and hints of balsam that mingle with wood smoke; with time some cherry fruit emerges too. On the palate it feels stripped bare, much like the 1980, though in this case there's a little more cherry fruit, supported by tannins that have faded into thinness, though they feel as if they once had a burr, and flow into a balsamic finish with cherry overtones. It's gives an impression of thinness, though this is an effect of age -- it obviously had considerable grace to start out with, and has evolved into laciness with time. Graceful, but requires thought.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1985
Deep black almandine ruby with almandine ruby that has some orange overtones in the rim. The bouquet is clean, with cut leaf tobacco and bitter underbrush; not much fruit on the nose, though there is some underlying cherry that provides depth and direction. Also considerable graphite shavings. With time the fruit opens and becomes stronger. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful dusty cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet cherry laced finish with lots of dust and some bitter cedary notes. Pleasing, and fully mature; because of the bitter dustiness it won't do well as a sipping wine, but it will instead work quite well with hearty stews or succulent grilled meats, especially steaks. Quite nice and worth seeking out.
88-90

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1986
1985 and 1988 were both great vintages, and the 86, which is sandwiched between them, has always gotten short shrift that is perhaps undeserved. Black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leaf tobacco and balsamic notes supported by underlying bitterness and sea salt, with hints of sour cherry fruit that provide direction. Also peppery spice, slight mint and pencil shavings. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with delicate slightly tart cherry and forest berry fruit supported by velvety tannins that still display a slight burr, and flow into a clean cherry laced dusty finish. It is better that its reputation, though it doesn't have the power of the 85-88 set, and will work nicely with red meats or stews. Has lived its life and is coming down.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1988
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim; gives an impression of vibrancy. The bouquet at first sniff is more delicate than one might have expected, with slightly sour cherry fruit supported by balsam and hints of bitter sea salt with underlying leaf tobacco; more swishing brings forth stronger tobaccoey spice that takes on a reddish cast from the underlying berry fruit, and gains life from some acidity. On the palate it's full and warm, with pleasing sour cherry fruit supported by smooth warm tannins that lead into a warm clean tannic finish with sour cherry overtones; though it doesn't flow over the tongue exuberantly, and indeed shows a degree of restraint, it is graceful, and will work quite nicely with foods, for example a platter of mixed grilled meats. You may wish you had a second bottle.
88

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1990
Deep black almandine ruby with hints of Moroccan leather in the rim. By comparison with the 88 it's slightly more shifted towards brick. The bouquet is clean, with delicate spice and sour cherry that mingle with some mint, warmth, and slight brandied cherries; it's quite nice and there's a lot to plumb. On the palate it's full, though not huge, and to be frank is more about finesse than opulence, with delicate balsam-laced slightly bitter cherry fruit that has leaf tobacco overtones and is supported by clean dusty tannins that lead into a long warm balsamic finish with considerable warmth and some fruit that gain definition from bitter pencil shavings. By comparison with the 88 it displays more finesse, though a little less power.
91

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva 1993
Deep cherry ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is unusual, with peat smoke and cherry fruit that mingle with peppery spice; with more swishing the fruit comes to the fore. On the palate it's medium bodied, with a thin feeling to it that is the vintage at work, and pleasing cherry fruit that is supported by smooth sweet tannins. To be frank it's not a great wine -- a month of rains beginning just before the harvest preclude greatness -- but it does display considerable grace and will drink quite well with succulent red meats. In short, how to draw a success from an adverse situation.
2 stars

This takes care of Chianti Classico. This year at Vintialy Emanuela had another vertical as well, of Sangioveto, a barrique aged 100% Sangiovese they introduced in 1980, calling it Sangioveto to increase worldwide awareness of the Sangiovese grape, which was then relatively unknown.

At the time Chianti Classico required the addition of white grapes, so they labeled it as a Vino da Tavola, or table wine (where it joined the ranks of other now classic Tuscan wines including Tignanello and Le Pergole Torte).

With the changes that have taken place in the regulations governing Chianti production, Sangioveto could now qualify as Chianti Classico, if it weren't for the name -- the regulations prohibit the use of grape names. So Sangioveto has gone from being a Vino Da Tavola to being an IGT Toscana.

The wines:

Badia A Coltibuono Sangioveto di Toscana VDT 1994
Deep black almandine with almandine rim. Deft bouquet, with warmth, some tart leather, acidity, and hints of woodsmoke mingled with savory accents, and, as it opens, sour berry fruit and some dried flowers. Nice depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and a fair amount of warmth that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, rich, and rather seductive; by comparison with the Chianti Classico it's curvier -- a more international style -- and in this context is a fine interpretation of Sangiovese, with much to say to those who will listen.
88-90

Badia A Coltibuono Sangioveto di Toscana IGT 1995
Deep brick ruby with brownish reflections and almandine rim. Looks older than the 94. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm spice and some green leather , underbrush, savory accents, and some dried flowers, with underlying sea salt and smoke. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warmth that flow into a clean fairly tart berry fruit finish. Deft and much alive; by comparison with the 95 Riserva it's rounder and smoother, with less acidity and not as bright on the finish. Pleasant, but I found myself preferring the Riserva -- a question of personal taste.
2 stars

Badia A Coltibuono Sangioveto di Toscana IGT 1997
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with berry fruit and spice mingled with green leather, alcohol, tar, and warmth; there's a vibrancy to it, and it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full, with powerful berry fruit supported by smooth rich sweet tannins and moderate acidity that is sufficient to provide direction and depth, though it's not as bright as what one finds in the Riserva; it's also elegant in a rounder key, though not as tight as the wines that are aged in larger wood. It has in any case aged beautifully, and displaying great depth. From my personal standpoint it's not as light on its toes as a traditional wine aged in large as opposed to small wood would be, and this has more to do with the style of the wine than its quality, which is impressive.
90-91

Badia A Coltibuono Sangioveto di Toscana IGT 1999
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and tart underlying acidity; it's more graceful and less charged than the 97. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by fairly rich raspberry acidity and by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean tart fairly dry cedar finish. It seems to represent a change of pace with respect to the older wines; it's brasher and a bit simpler.
2 stars

Note: Maurizio Castelli has returned as enologist for this one:

Badia A Coltibuono Sangioveto di Toscana IGT 2004
Almandine with black reflections; Maurizio has begun to experiment with long maceration times. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by spice and warmth, and by a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's full and rich, with deft cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet vanilla laced tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, and will drink well with rich meats; it displays considerable depth but is clearly still climbing.
88-90

With respect to the Chianti Classico Riserva, the Sangioveto is smoother, softer, and a bit more seductive, and this is an effect of its being aged in barriques as opposed to large oak casks. If you are more traditionally minded you will find the Chianti Classico Riserva more to your tastes, whereas if you are more modern, you will likely prefer the Sangioveto.

Isole e Olena: The Wines

Isole e Olena has changed a great deal since I first drove up a dirt road looking for the place in the early 1990s. Winemaker Paolo De Marchi was mobbed at Vinitaly, so I made a late morning appointment to discuss some of the changes, and how the estate and his thoughts have developed since the last time I wrote something down. Unfortunately, his early morning appointment went way past morning, so the discussion will have to wait -- after I finished tasting the wines, which took me almost as long as it took him to wrap up his first appointment, his wife Marta and I talked about the pitfalls of raising adolescent boys, and then we simply ate lunch and chatted.

So: the wines.

I started with Paolo's Chardonnay, which featured a surprise this time: To combat problems of corkage, he's experimenting with screw caps, and I got to compare bottles with the two kinds of closure.

Isole e Olena Collezione De Marchi Chardonnay 2007
Lot 808 Screw Cap
This is not an experiment, but is the first vintage that Paolo has applied a screw cap to. It's the same lot as the regular cork-stoppered Chardonnay because they were bottled on the same day. Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with deft tropical fruit -- passion fruit and some pineapple supported by barest hints of butterscotch and bright slightly greenish acidity. Quite pleasant and very much alive, in a wide-eyed, welcoming sort of way. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean, elegant white fruit supported by clean bright lemony mineral acidity and by rather languorous hints of butterscotch structure that flow into a long, deft slightly bitter finish. Great control and extremely pleasant to drink; it is the sort of thing that will work well with elegant creamy dishes -- a seductive risotto with shrimp comes to mind, as does the spring standby, asparagus risotto -- and is also the sort of wine you may simply decided to enjoy with a special somebody, far from the table. Impressive.
90-91

Isole e Olena Collezione De Marchi Chardonnay 2007
Lot 808 Cork
Brilliant brassy gold with a very slight greenish cast to the golden reflections that I see and don't see, and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with tropical fruit, a mix of passion fruit and pineapple laced with hints of heather and butterscotch; it does differ slightly from the screw cap, with slight vegetal accents, while the screw cap seems a little crisper. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant lemony passion fruit with clean bright citric acidity that is less mineral than the screw cap's, and supported by a pleasant languidity from butterscotch and glycerin. It's a bit softer and more seductive than the screw cap wine, and not quite as crisp; in terms of serving suggestions I would go with slightly less creamy dishes, say an elegant fish sauced pasta, or with grilled fish that's flavorful but not too sharp. Sea bass comes to mind. And again, it will be nice far from the table.
90

Comparing them side-by-side is like looking at a pair of twins, who might seem identical at first glance, but reveal differences as one gets to know them; the screw cap wine is just a touch crisper and has a slightly harder edge to it, whereas the cork-stoppered wine is a little softer, and comes across as slightly more seductive. Both are very fine, and which you prefer will be a matter of taste. To continue with the twins analogy, one trains competitively -- the screw cap -- while the other -- the cork stopper -- dances.

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2005
Lot 12.07
Delicate black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and by warm slightly balsamic accents and slight animal tang; as it opens hints of menthol also emerge. Nice balance, and pleasant to sniff, in a slightly underripe key -- it was a wet cold summer and the aromas reflect this. On the palate it's medium bodied and rich, with clean slightly brambly cherry fruit supported by bright acidity that has a greenish cast, and by tannins that have a clean deft burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannins underpinning. Very pleasant, and a fine food wine; it will work very well with succulent grilled meats, and also with light stews -- beef or pork, while there is also sufficient acidity for it to work well with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2006
Lot 4.08
Elegnat cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted -- youth at work, though swishing brings up cherry fruit supported by dusky overtones and some vegetal accents. It opens nicely, but needs another year to get its bearings and develop. On the palate it's medium bodied and rich, with elegant cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins -- smoother than those of the 05 -- and by bright slightly citric acidity that flows into a clean fresh slightly sour cherry finish. Very pleasant, and will be very nice with grilled meats or light stews, though it does need another year to come together and develop. Expect it to age well for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Isole e Olena Vino Atto a Diventare Chianti Classico DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
This is the blend, which will soon go into bottle. It's lively cherry ruby with youthful hints of violets, and has an elegant bouquet that's quite impressive for an unbottled wine, with an abundance of violets and jammy forest berry fruit, in particular blackberries and some black cherries. Youth, snd very nice to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slight jammy accents and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean jammy fruit finish; by comparison with the two older wines it's less acidic and consequently comes across as smoother, though there are pleasant bitter accents to provide a counterpoint to the fruit; because of its having less acidity it will be better suited to somewhat drier meats -- in other words, not sausages, nor spare ribs, but rather chops (lamb or pork) or roasts, for example lean roast beef cooked rare.

Isole e Olena Cepparello IGT Toscana 2004
Lot 2.07
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich and powerful, with elegant sour cherry fruit laced with slightly savory acidity and supported by hints of cedar -- there is wood, but it supports discreetly -- and slight greenish accents. Beautiful and very young. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright cherry finish with some sour savory underpinning. It's well muscled, but very light on its toes, rather like a gymnast, and is quite capable of making what would seem very difficult for others seam easy. Beautiful, and it will lend magic to a meal built around a porterhouse steak, though I would be tempted to set it aside, because it will improve markedly over the next 5-10 and perhaps even 15 years.
92

Isole e Olena Cepparello IGT Toscana 2005
Lot 3.08
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate cherry fruit supported by fairly intense cedar and some savory accents; there isn't much acidity, and wood is carrying the show. The palate reflects the nose; the wine is fairly rich, with pleasant moderately intense cherry fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fairly fresh cedar-laced finish. It's clearly from a weaker vintage, and relies much more on wood than wines from better vintages do. Wood that does a nice job, but for the wine to really work for you, you have to like wines that are oaked -- oaked well, but oaked.
2 stars

Isole e Olena Cepparello IGT Toscana 2006
Lot 10.08
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a rather haunting key, with clean rich berry fruit laced with sea salt and spice, and also some deft mineral acidity, and slight underbrush. Very pleasant, though still a babe; it's obviously at the beginning of a long journey. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft shadowy berry fruit acidity and by sweet tannins that have a slight youthful burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with a greenish tannic underpinning. Very pleasant, though it needs time; one could drink it now with a steak or leg of lamb, but to do so would be an infanticide. It will begin to be drinkable in 2-3 years, and age nicely at least through 2020.
90

Isole e Olena Syrah Collezione De Marchi IGT Toscana 2004
Lot 10.06
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with underbrush and deft mentholated spice. Quite elegant, and still very fresh, with a lot going on. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite rich, with deft, rather languid forest berry fruit, a mixture of blackberry and currant with underlying cherries, supported by moderate tobacco leaf acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats that aren't too fatty; roast beef cooked rare for example, or leg of lamb. It will also age nicely for at least another 5-10 years.
88-90

Isole e Olena Syrah Collezione De Marchi IGT Toscana 2006
An unlabeled sample from the bin where the bottled wines are aging.
Deep violet ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and rich, with considerable underbrush supported by spice, bell pepper, and underlying berry fruit; it's more varietal than the 2004 and though this is perhaps pertly youth, it's also a vintage variation. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich mineral berry fruit laced with leaf tobacco and supported by deft, almost lacy acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with an underpinning of underbrush. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats now, though I might be tempted to give it a few years, because it will also do interesting things with time. In short, a wine to buy several bottles of, and to follow.
90

Isole e Olena Cabernet Collezione De Marchi IGT Toscana 2001
Lot 22/4
This is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon, though there is just a little Cabernet Franc. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim, and has an elegant bouquet with rich, fairly tart berry fruit supported by clean vegetal accents, and deft bright acidity. I certainly wouldn't have guessed its age without seeing the label. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful bright cherry fruit supported by bright slightly vegetal cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a farly long slightly tart cherry finish. Very pleasant, and will bring magic to a meal featuring hearty red meats, from steak through stewed wild boar. Most impressive, and will age nicely for at least another decade, or perhaps more.
92-3

Isole e Olena Cabernet Collezione De Marchi IGT Toscana 2003
Lot 1.05
Paolo is just starting to sell this vintage -- after several years of bottle age. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with fairly rich jammy berry fruit supported by some greenish spice, slight vegetal accents, and by hints of prunes. Clearly from a hot vintage, though not cooked. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly sweet dusky cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity -- enough to provide direction, but not much more -- and by clean sweet tannins that have some dusky cedar accents, and flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish with peppery spice that does have some bell pepper accents. It's pleasant, in a rather voluptuous fruit driven key that is dictated more by the vintage than by stylistic concerns of the winery; it's also a wine that will drink nicely with flavorful, not too fatty roasts or stews. It's further along than the 2001, but this is because of the vintage.
2 stars

Isole e Olena Vinsanto Del Chianti Classico DOCG 2001
Lot not apparent.
Tawny amber with brilliant dried apricot reflections. The bouquet is mind-bendingly rich, with sweet dried apricots mingled with brown sugar and hints of oatmeal, and rich green walnut skin, and warmth, and a fair amount of alcohol, and polished wood, and… new things keep emerging. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful dried apricot fruit supported by deft apricot acidity and walnut bitterness that gradually give way to apricot laced sugary warmth, while the walnut skins carry on, slowly emerging with time. A beautiful vinsanto, of the kind that one can sip today and remember (vividly) next year, and if one is blessed with a memory for wines, for much, much longer.
92-3

Proprietà Sperino

Proprietà Sperino is an estate in Northern Piemonte that has been in the De Marchi family for a while, and Paolo has long dreamed of making wines there. Now he is, with his son Luca, who also signs the labels, overseeing things Day to Day.

Proprietà Sperino Uvaggio Coste della Sesia Rosso DOC 2006
Lot L3/08
This is a blend of Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Croatina -- the traditional blend of the region -- and is pale almandine ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh and tart, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish acidity and by barest hints of sandalwood; it's quite pleasant and very welcoming in a wide-eyed sort of way. On the palate it's rich, with bright sour cherry ft supported by lively berry fruit acidity -- a mix of red currant and sour cherry -- and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish sour cherry finish. Very pleasant, a bright eyed, bushy tailed wine that will work very well at a cookout or with meats off the grill, and is something I would drink sooner than later, because though ti will age nicely for a few years, its freshness is captivating. Expect it to go quickly, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Proprietà Sperino Lessona DOC 2005
Lot 7/08
This wine has both Paolo and his son Luca's signatures on the label; it's a Nebbiolo and is elegant almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, and still somewhat closed, though swishing brings up cherry and red berry fruit supported by some rosa canina and hints of underbrush, with delicate spice and acidity as well. It's clearly still getting its bearings, but promises quite nicely. On the palate it's full and rich, with brash sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a lively greenish burr and flow into a fairly long tart finish. A classic Nebbiolo of the Alto Piemonte, replete with lively aggressiveness, and will drink very well with succulent red meats, either from the oven or the stew pot, and if you prepare a rich platter of mixed grilled meats that's long on things such as ribs (well seasoned) you will find it works well with them too. Impressive, and even those who prefer the smoothness of the more international style will find things to think about; if you're a traditionalist you will enjoy it very much.
90

Proprietà Sperino L'Franc Bandit Vino Da Tavola
Lot CF04
This doesn't have a vintage because it's a table wine and they can't have vintages, but it's a 2004. As the name implies, it's a Cabernet Franc. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The nose is, well, varietal: a tremendous rush of grilled pepper with underlying vegetal accents, and quite pleasant, though still young, and less complex than it likely will be. On the palate it's rich, with lively bell pepper laced berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh rather bitter pepper-laced finish. It's a classic Cabernet Franc, and brashly satisfied at being what it is; if you like the varietal you will enjoy the wine. Considerably. If you're less of a Cabernet fan you may like it less, though chances are that you'll still find things to think about and appreciate in it. It will work quite well with grilled meats, hearty roasts, and also stews, including more exotic things such as goulash.
88-90

Want to know more about Isole e Olena? Check Paolo's site. And, if you want to find the wines, check Wineaccess or Snooth.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

Last year the Tedeschi Family held a vertical of La Fabriseria , which they had transformed into a Valpolicella Classico Superiore by eliminating the Cabernet that used to go into it, and which was (for me) one of the highpoints of Vinitaly. This year they were simply pouring their wines, and tasting them was a very pleasant hour. Like many producers of Valpolicella, they also have a few whites and we began with those:

Tedeschi Bianco di Custozza 2008
Lot L1
Pale brassy yellow with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and heather, mingled with tart white fruit, more pineapple than grapeft. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter minerality laced with heather that flows into a clean bitter finish. Quite direct, and will drink well with cheese or egg based dishes -- say an oniony quiche or frittata -- or with simple grilled fish or white meats. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Tedeschi Soave Classico 2008
Lot L1
Pale greenish white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with underripe honeydew melon. Nice balance and inviting in a youthful key. On the palate it's fairly full, with lively minerality and heather supported by tart almost peppery acidity that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant and will drink well as an aperitif, or with creamy fish dishes -- a fish risotto, for example.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2008
Lot 1B1
This was a vineyard selection, but is now a selection of the best grapes from their Soave vineyards. It's brassy yellow with brassy reflections, and white rim; the bouquet is bright and rich with heather supported by deft greenish acidity and spice from grapes; it displays nice balance and has a fair amount to say. On the palate it's full and rich, with heather and vegetal acidity with underlying minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish with underlying bitterness. Welcoming; it will be nice as an aperitif or with rich first courses, creamy pesto sauces come do mind, as do fish-based pasta dishes and risotti. It will also be apleasant aperitif.
2 stars

Tedeschi Lucchini Valpolicella Classico 2008
Lot b1R
This wine is still made with some Molinara -- about 10% -- and is from their only flat-lying vineyard. It's also what Sabrina Tedeschi likes to drink day to day: Lively ruby with cherry reflections and has a fresh, bright berry fruit bouquet laced with hints of sandalwood and some vegetal accents. Quite refreshing, and inviting, rather like a pretty teen with a challenging stare. On the palate it's fresh, and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and tannins that are warm, with a clean burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. An absolutely classic food wine that will drink well with all sorts of things, from quickly grilled meats through red-sauced pastas and fried meats and vegetables. It will also be nice at a cookout, and will go fast.
1 star

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
Lot L1
This is their basic Valpolicella Superiore, and is a lively cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine at the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasant sandalwood laced with red berry fruit, spice, and some cedar; there's nice depth and it's quite elegant in a rather vibrant key. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively tart berry fruit supported by warm rather splintery tannins that flow into a warm fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and though it's a touch too tart to be drunk by the glass, it will work quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel di Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006
Lot 3b2
The back label says "appassimento breve," in other words the grapes were dried briefly before they were pressed. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich cherry laced with deft slightly greenish sandalwood spice and some hints of licorice root and sugar. Quite elegant in a slightly exotic key, and also quite young. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful greenish sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean rich smooth tannins. Very nice, and the palate confirms the youth of the nose; it will give much now but richly reward those who can give it 3-5 years. In short, a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity, with the acidity slightly to the fore, and this will make for a long life.
88-90

I also tasted a barrel sample of the 2007. It's quite elegant, and brasher, with more acidity (even taking into account its greater youth), and seems a little more nervous. Promises very well, and should age well too.

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2006
Lot L6B4
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with warm red berry fruit laced with sandalwood and alcohol, with hints of licorice root and slight balsamic overtones. Very pleasant and one could sniff it at length; there's something sassy to it. On the palate it's full and rich with lively berry fruit supported by bright mineral and sour cherry acidity, and it all flows into a a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Nice balance between fruit and acidity, with the acidity evident but not overwhelming, and though one could drink it now with succulent red meats it will richly reward those who can give it time. Worth seeking out if you're traditionally minded, and also if you're not.
89-91

I also tasted a barrel sample of the 2007; it's not as dry, and is pleasant, with rich fruit, and I found it a bit more approachable than the 2006. But perhaps less interesting, and less long lived.

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006
Lot 1b1
Lively pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean underbrush. Quite bright and very pleasant to sniff; the Italian word that comes to mind is schietto, which means lively and energetic. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity laced with hints of sandalwood and sweetness, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It's like a well-muscled dancer who's light on her toes and can do things with ease that the rest of us (me, at least) can only dream of. Most impressive and will work very well with roasts (red meats) or stews, and will also age well for a decade at least. Impressive
90-92

The 2007 barrel sample is bright, with richer, more intense berry fruit and less acidity, and is also smoother and rounder. In other words, a bit more approachable, and less bright, though it does promise well. The difference isn't quite as evident as it is in the two vintages of San Rocco, but it is there.

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Lot 1b2
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with berry fruit alced with sandalwood and alcohol, and bright acidity well supported by greenish accents. It's very young, and coming together, and though it's at the start of a long journey, it is nice. On the palate it's full, rich, and young, with lively underbrush and berry fruit supported by zesty greenish tannins that display a considerable peppery burr and flow into a clean warm finish with peppery overtones. It's a toddler at nursery school, and though one could drink it, it won't begin to show its potential for a few more years, say about 2012.
90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella 2005
Lot 1b3
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is very, very young, and vegetal, with considerable red currant acidity and abundant red berry fruit. It's a toddler who's not happy about being disturbed, and wants to go back to play. But quite elegant in its youth, and promises well. On the palate it's rich, with powerful bright berry fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that display a lively burr and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It displays great elegance, but is behind with respect to the basic Amarone, and though this is to be expected it also means that if you must drink a 2005 Tedeschi Amarone now, this isn't the one. It will be spectacular when it gets a ways into its journey but that will take a few years. Expect it to age for 10-15 and perhaps more.
2 stars (now)

Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Lot L1B1
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, with prune and forest berry fruit laced with vegetal accents, berry fruit jam, and clean fresh sweetness. Great depth, and a delight to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with deft date-prune fruit supported by deft sweetness and powerful, smooth soft tannins that have pleasant greenish overtones and flow into a smooth greenish sweet finish that continues at length. Graceful, and very pleasant to drink; the Romans made Recioto, and as we taste this one we understand while it still has its devotees today.
90-92

For more information about Tedeschi, visit their site.