- Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)
- Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino
- Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon
- Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno
- Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)
- Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Yields? 100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.
Cellaring? As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.
Having said all this, the wines tasted at the Bolgheri DOCG presentation on May 29 2009. The order is that in which the Bolgheri Superiore was presented, because it was the wine I started with:
Ferrari Iris
Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pyrope with black reflections; poured dink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cassis fruit supported by some spice, some greenish accents, and quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful black currant fruit supported by alcohol, sweetness (derived in part from alcohol), and splintery tannins that have a slight cedar underpinning; there isn't much acidity to provide direction, and therefore the tannins step in, doing an adequate job for now. In the future they may do less well.
2 stars
Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful ripe, jammy cherry fruit supported by cassis and graphite shavings, with some spice and hints of vegetal accents. Nice balance and bright, in a rich fruit driven key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich slightly chalky cherry fruit supported by peppery spice with nutmeg overtones and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long cherry black currant finish. Elegant in a rather swank lusciously curvy style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer more austere wines it won't work as well for you, however. It's ready, but will also age nicely for a decade or more.
88-90
Campo al Noce
Campo al Noce Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice supported by green apricot acidity and savory notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bitter minerality supported by some spice, and by greenish vegetal accents that flow into a fairly long bitter vegetal finish. Direct, and will work well as an aperitif, or with simple fish dishes.
1 star
Campo al Noce Miterre Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep back pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes and spice, mingled with warmth and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's languid, with moderately intense plum black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. A bit soft.
1 star
Campo al Noce Assiolo IGT 2006
This is a blend of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable iodine, savory notes, and alcohol, but not much fruit. Some balsam. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and considerable bitterness that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found.
1 star
Campo al Noce Syrah IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright jammy black currant fruit supported by some greenish spice; nice balance and fair depth. On the palate it's bright, with rich plum currant fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins, and by bitter mineral acidity that provides direction and leads into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with mineral tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and still quite young; it needs a couple of years to get its bearings, but promises quite well in a distinctly international key.
2 stars
Campo al Noce Riverbero Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and fruit laced, an explosion in a violet shop with considerable black currant overlay laced with deft greenish freshly sliced bell pepper. Nice balance and fresh, in a voluptuous fruit driven key. On the palate it's full, with powerful black currant fruit supported by bright black currant acidity and very smooth tannins that have a slight bitter graphite underpinning and flow into a fairly long currant finish. Pleasant in a voluptuous fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much Because of its smooth fruitiness it will also work well by the glass far from the table.
88-90
Donna Olimpia 1868
Donna Olimpia 1868 Obizzo IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with pale rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and heather mingled with minerality and some peppery notes, also slight gooseberry. On the palate it's ample and direct with white berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and spice. Some savory accents in finish.
1 star
Donna Olimpia 1868 Agoghè Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with red berry fruit supported by deft mineral acidity. Nice balance in a slightly redder fruit-driven key than some. On the palate it's ample, with deft raspberry fruit supported by some citric accents, which flow into a clean bright citric finish with underlying red berry fruit accents. Nice wine that will be perfect at a picnic or cookout.
2 stars
Donna Olimpia Tageto IGT 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great rush of graphite shavings mingled with spice and some green bell pepper; also forest berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with fairly rich greenish bell pepper laced berry fruit supported by clean acidity and smooth tannins that have a glancing mineral overlay and flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a bright youthful key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or even fried foods.
2 stars
Donna Olimpia Millepassi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and black currant fruit supported by graphite shavings and cedar; it's a little duskier than I might have liked. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry and black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly disquieting underlying savory bitterness that brings wet leather to mind, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's missing something, perhaps a little richness of fruit.
1 star
Batzella
Batzella Mezzodì Bolgheri Bianco 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with white highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit, passion fruit to be precise, mingled with green apricot and some spice. Nice balance in a rather languid key. On the palate it's ample, in a rather languid key, though there is acidity to provide direction, with bright white berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by slightly greenish accents that flow into a clean greenish finish that's fairly long. It's pleasant, and will drink well with a wide variety of flavorful fish dishes, also with cheese-filled ravioli and similar.
2 stars
Batzella Pinksy Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with dusky reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by dusky mineral acidity and some spice; it's deft, and very much a rose. On the palate it's moderately intense, with bright lemony citric fruit that has some red berry fruit overtones, and flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish, while there are some tannins, but they are smooth and relatively light. Nice as an aperitif or with picnic foods.
2 stars
Batzella Digià Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2008
Digià means already, and is clearly a reference to the youth of the wine. Lively black cherry ri black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, with bright forest berry fruit supported by some bitter accents and greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright currant acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr with quite a bit of alcohol underpinning it all. Pleasant, in a bright fresh key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars
Batzella Pean Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with pungent notes and brambly spice; there's not much fruit but there are dry vegetal notes that bring artichokes to mind. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with fairly intense savory berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth splintery tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and though I wouldn't drink it far from the table it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars
Batzella Bliss IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is very young, with greenish accents mingled with some berry fruit and spice; the greenish accents are carrying the show at present. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that have a sweet cedar overlay and flow into a fairly long greenish cedary finish. It's settled, not to say spread out, and I'd have expected more tightness and depth from a young wine
1 star
Batzella Tàm Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black pyrope ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some plum currant fruit; the impression is brooding, and somewhat closed, but also gives an impression of trying very hard. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich currant fruit supported by savory accents and moderate acidity, while the tannins are a touch splintery and bitter, with distinct cedar underpinning. It's more of a food wine than a wine to be sipped now, and will work well with hearty roasts or stews, including game.
2 stars
La Cipriana
La Cipriana Paguro Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some butterscotch and bitterness mingled with greenish accents and very ripe tropical fruit that has an overripe pungency to it; there's also some heather. On the palate it's ample, with bright honeydew melon laced with some apricot acidity, and by slight greenish accents that flow into a clean bright fairly green finish. Direct, and will drink well as an aperitif or with simple fish.
1 star
La Cipriana Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and gum Arabic mingled with savory accents and alcoholic warmth, though there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by deft almost sugary spice, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean spicy finish. It's a bit one-dimensional; what you see is what there is, and not much in the way of complexity.
1 star
La Cipriana San Martino Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory slightly balsamic accents mingled with some leather and the pungency of cut flower stems, as well as peppery spice and graphite shavings; underlying it all is prune and black currant fruit. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright currant fruit supported by bright black currant acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have dusky bitter overtones, and flow into a clean cassis-laced finish. Pleasant, in a slightly scrappy key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats, especially things such as steak I found it growing upon me, and would expect it to age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out
2 stars
Greppi Cupi
Greppi Cupi Greppi Cupi Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with strawberry acidity and vegetal accents, and deft spicy underpinning. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean bright mineral and berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm glancing burr, and flow into a clean bright fairly mineral finish with lasting warmth and a fair amount of alcohol. Deft, in a rather scrappy tomboyish key, and will drink nicely with succulent frilled meats or light stews. If you like the style, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Greppi Cupi Rubino dei Greppi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is intense, with mineral notes mingled with graphite bitterness and some cedar; the combination is graceful and somehow lacy. On the palate it's bright, with clean rich berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit spice and by tannins that have an appealing graphite-cedar bitterness and flow into a clean rather bitter black currant finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with succulent red meats. Expect it to age well for a decade too.
88-90
Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi
Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Ocra Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry black currant fruit supported by spice and some vegetal accents and greenish berry fruit jam. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour black current fruit supported by bright strawberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright slightly greenish finish. Pleasant, in a rather scrappy key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Vignarè Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and bright, with black currant fruit supported by lively strawberry acidity and some vegetal notes that develop into grilled pepper as the wine opens. Nice balance, in a muscular, youthful key. On the palate it's full and rich in a direct up front manner, with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by dusky tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a long toasted coffee ground finish -- lots of char in the oak barrels, and it transferred to the wine. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like strongly oaked wines.
1 star
I Greppi
I Greppi Greppicante Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with hints of band-aid mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate fruit supported by splintery greenish tannins that flow into a greenish finish.
1 star
I Greppi Greppicaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with spice mingled with some gum Arabic, but not much in the way of fruit, at least not at the outset. Bitterness, but not fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cassis fruit supported by mineral bitterness and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish that reveals some coffee ground bitterness as it fades. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit; it gives an impression of having been sapped some by oak.
1 star
I Luoghi
I Luoghi Podere Ritorti Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections, Fairly direct nose, with berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and spice, also greenish accents and some balsamic notes. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright slightly balsamic cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars
I Luoghi Campo al Fico Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cassis and black cherry fruit supported by sliced bell pepper and considerable graphite shaving bitterness; it's quite young, and gives an impression of being in mid stride yet. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cassis fruit supported by some dusky acidity, and very smooth tannins laced with graphite bitterness that flow into a pleasant graphite laced finish. Pleasant in a rather graceful willowy key, and will also age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars
Fornacelle
Fornacelle Zizzolo Vermentino IGT 2008
Brassy gold with brassy highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some gooseberry mingled with spice and savory heather. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright white berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and some spice that flows into a fairly bitter greenish finish.
1 star
Fornacelle Bianco IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with yellow berry fruit supported by some gooseberry and greenish accents, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense bitter minerality mingled with some acidity, which flows into a fairly greenish finish. Direct, and up front.
1 star
Fornacelle Zizzolo Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bell pepper accents and savory spice mingled with forest berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean savory spice and greenish vegetal accents, while the tannins are cedar laced, and flow into a warm cedar laced finish.
1 star
Fornacelle Guardaboschi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with cedar-laced grilled bell pepper; classic Cabernet and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with clean sour berry fruit laced with bell pepper acidity and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm vegetal finish. Quite nice, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it will drink well now with succulent red meats, in particular hearty roasts along the lines of leg of lamb, or stews -- wild boar with an abundance of juniper berries would be perfect. It also has the wherewithal to age nicely for a decade or more.
89-91
Collemassari Grattamacco
Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2007
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some honeydew melon and minerality mingled with greenish spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with underlying bitterness and minerality that flow into a clean mineral finish with underlying greenish bitterness. Fairly direct, but pleasant to drink, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with simple pasta or white meat dishes.
1 star
Collemassari Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and cedary spice mingled with some tart berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tart cherry and wild strawberry finish with lasting warmth. Quite pleasant, more on the palate than the nose, and I would give the wine a year to develop, expecting it to do nice things in the fairly short term, and age well for 5-8 years. It will work well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried foods. Pleasant in a more traditional key (especially for Bolgheri), and is worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
Collemassari Grattamacco Grattamacco Rosso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some green leather and milkweed sap, mingled with bitterness, and underlying plum cassis fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense, with warm rather lax decidedly savory fruit that flows into a savory finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked more brightness to it, and richer fruit, than I found.
1 star
Collemassari Grattamacco L'Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and considerable cassis mingled with peppery spice and graphite shavings. Pleasant, in a bright rather sexy key. On the palate it's rich, with lively black currant fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by cedar laced tannins that have graphite shaving underpinning, and flow into a clean bright bitter mineral finish that's fairly long. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews; it is very young, and if I had a few bottles I would drink one now with a steak, and set the others aside for 5-8 years. Grew on me.
2 stars
Argentiera
Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and a touch rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with savory spice and a fair amount of alcohol; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with, again, less fruit than I might have expected; what there is is cassis plum and lax, supported by ample smooth rather soft tannins. I'd have liked more depth, tightness, and brilliance.
1 star
Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with sour bell pepper that brings peperonata, the classic Italian stewed peppers, to mind, mingled with hints of tomato leaves. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have peppery accents and considerable graphite bitterness that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant in a very international key, though also a touch dry; I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which seems to have suffered some from the oak. In its defense it is quite young, and will likely clean up well, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars
Castello di Bolgheri
Castello di Bolgheri Varvara Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced greenish berry fruit supported by spice and hardwood ash, with a certain alcoholic pungency as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by greenish graphite shaving bitterness and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean alcohol laced finish with lasting bitterness. Direct, and up front.
1 star
Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is up in the air; a fellow taster talks about coffee, while I find wet cloth at the outset, and as it airs it reveals iodine and bell pepper with some graphite shavings. In mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with dusky berry fruit laced with bell peppers and supported by dusky tannins that have considerable bitter bell pepper warmth, and flow into a fruit laced finish with underlying warm savory bitterness. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose but in mid stride here too; it needs at least a year and perhaps two to get its bearings, and will (I think) become interesting with time, in a fairly rich international key. But we're not there yet.
2 stars
Giovanni Chiappini
Giovanni Chiappini Le Grottine Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Brassy yellow with greenish accents and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some vegetal notes mingled with minerality and deft aromas of a Tuscan field in summer. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with savory minerality supported by clean bright mineral acidity that flows into a deft fairly mineral finish with some tart underpinnings, and is fairly long. Quite approachable, in a direct key, and will drink well with simple antipasti or light fish dishes.
2 stars
Giovanni Chiappini Felciano Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm brambly notes mingled with saddle leather and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by brambly accents and green leather, flow into a fairly tart bitter finish. Direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews,.
1 star
Giovanni Chiappini Lienà IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum laced cedar supported by underlying greenish bitterness, also from oak. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with moderate fruit supported by clean bitter accents that flow into a bitter cassis laced finish. A lot of oak, and I'm not sure the wine will ever absorb it completely.
1 star
Giovanni Chiappini Guado De' Gemoli Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and dark cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright chalky berry fruit supported by cedar laced spice and some leather, with underlying warm savory balsamic notes and jammy accents. Very much in mid stride. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and black currant fruit supported by warm grilled pepper acidity and considerable cedar from the tannins, which are warm and savory, and flow into a warm bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and still coming together; I would give it a year to get its bearings, but am not sure how complex it will ultimately become.
1 star
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Achenio Bolgheri Bianco 2008
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal notes and heather supported by sour tropical fruit and some greenish notes, also heather and heathery acidity. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich languid mineral laced tropical fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by some savory accents. The palate is laxer than I might have liked, and falls flat towards the finish; I'd have preferred more tightness and acidity to it. This said, if you like ample soft white wines, it will work nicely as an aperitif.
1 star
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arioso IGT 2008
Pale greenish white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is intense with considerable gooseberry laced with sweaty blonde; the word Sauvignon comes insistently to mind. On the palate it's bright, with tart minerality laced with some savory accents that (again) bring a sweaty blonde to mind, and though this descriptor might revolt some, the wine is pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish or egg based dishes, also with creamy risotti and such.
2 stars
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Adeo Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky shadow and cedar with some grilled bell pepper vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by warm vegetal notes and cedar, with quite a bit of alcohol, and also cedar laced acidity. Charged, and the alcohol is intense, but it will work well with flavorful stews (boar comes to mind) or hearty, flavorful roasts. If you like the style it is enjoyable.
2 stars
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arnione Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with pyrope reflections and some violet in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with considerable cassis supported by graphite shavings, and while it's quick to write, it's also harmonious in a fairly direct key. On the palate it's full, with rich cassis fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth graphite laced tannins that flow into a fairly long cassis finish with a fair underpinning of alcohol and bitterness. It's pleasant in an up front, direct way; what you see is what you get. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's one of those wines that doesn't demand attention, but will contribute considerably to the meal it's served with..
2 stars
Tenuta San Guido
San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit unusual, with cut squash -- Italian zucca gialla, which is a cross between small pumpkin and butternut -- supported by warmth and alcohol, and as it opens some mint emerges as well too, mingled with green leather. In mid stride? On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample black currant plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by very smooth tannins that have bitter graphite accents, and flow into a rather peppery cassis laced finish with smooth tannic underpinning with lasting warmth. Pleasant in a direct key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews in the short term; it does display elegance and will increase in complexity with time, and age well for a decade or more. Needs time to develop.
2 stars
Guado al Tasso
Guado al Tasso Vermentino Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Brassy white with slightly greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and white flowers supported by mineral acidity and some greenish notes, supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's deft, with moderately intense mineral acidity supported by some citric accents and smooth slightly peppery spice that flows into a clean green apricot finish. It will work well as an aperitif, or with simple fish dishes.
1 star
Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale rosy pink with pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is inviting, with bright berry fruit supported by heather and some honeydew melon and also by pleasant acidity with underlying tartness. Nice balance On the palate it's light, with deft white berry fruit acidity supported by some raspberry notes, and by considerable warmth that flows into clean tart finish. A pleasant aperitif that will also work nicely with foods, especially in a picnic scenario.
2 stars
Guado al Tasso Bruciato Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some pungent spice and hints of balsam mingled with vegetal accents and some iodine. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit, primarily cassis, supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate mineral acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, though fairly direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, though I'm not sure I would drink it by the glass.
2 stars
Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with graphite shavings and some chalk dust, and underlying savory vegetal notes. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with a rich cassis fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth graphite laced tannins that flow into a finish with lasting bitterness and savory accents. Nice balance, and elegant, though very young, and still has a ways to go. It will work very well with foods -- the bitterness of the tannins is such that I wouldn't be tempted to drink it by the glass. But with succulent meats… A different story.
2 stars
Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia
Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with wood smoke and some bell pepper vegetal accents, also pungent spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh rather bitter finish. Nice balance, and will drink quite well with foods, from grilled meats through light stews. Expect it to age nicely for 3-6 years at least.
2 stars
Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm berry fruit laced with leather and eucalyptus, with underlying cedar and roasted bell pepper and considerable leather. Very young. On the palate it's ample, with rich cassis fruit supported by tannins that are deft, and have a splintery greenish butt and flow into a clean bright fruit laced tannic finish. Very young, and needs at least 3-5 years to come into its own. Will also age quite nicely for a decade or perhaps two, but really isn't ready yet. Great potential, but for the future. To drink it now would be an infanticide.
2 stars
Sapaio
Sapaio Volpolo Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky, with some barnyard tang mingled with warmth and balsamic acidity On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by warmth, and berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay and flow into a slightly greenish warm tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs another year at least to get its bearings and come together.
2 stars
Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory accents mingled with graphite shavings and some balsamic notes; there are also underlying grilled pepper accents. On the palate it's full, with warm bell pepper laced savory berry fruit supported by slightly splintery savory tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. It's lumbering now, but also has yet to get its bearings; I would give it a year or two because at present it's trying very hard, but not quite there. It will in any case drink quite well with succulent to fatty grilled or roasted meats.
2 stars
Michele Satta
Michele Satta Bolgheri Bianco 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tropical fruit and some spice mingled with citric acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright citric fruit and deft acidity that flows into a clean fairly bright citric finish with some bitter undertones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well as an aperitif or with fish, or white meats.
2 stars
Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with onion skin highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with heather and some bitterness mingled with sage and raspberry fruit. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with deft berry fruit supported by clean raspberry fruit acidity and by moderately intense tannins that flow into a clean rather sour finish. Pleasant as an aperitif, and will also drink nicely with a variety of pasta dishes, quickly cooked meats, and even pizza.
2 stars
Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit -- mostly cassis -- laced with iodine and some balsamic notes, also savory accents and spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich black currant fruit that gains direction from savory berry fruit acidity and is supported by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh black currant finish. Pleasant in an international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars
Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and very young, with red berry fruit supported by India ink and tart gum Arabic, with spice and underlying alcohol. On the palate it's fairly direct, with ample soft plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean savory tannic finish. I'd have liked greater depth and richness than I found.
1 star
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Lively salmon with salmon reflections and onion skin rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with alcohol and some spice, also greenish accents and heather. On the palate it's ample and bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean fresh berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a tart finish. Pleasant and will work well as an aperitif, or at picnics, or with first course dishes-- pasta seasoned with white sauces and such.
2 stars
Antonino Triangali-Casanuova Patrimonio Tringali Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is intense, with iodine and spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with sweet currant fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and well polished tannins that flow into a clean slightly black currant fruit finish. It's ample and very soft.
1 star
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova Renzo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory notes mingled with balsam and some sea salt, also alcohol. Surprisingly tertiary, but it is a 2005; there are also cheese rinds as it opens. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit and ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly soft finish. It seems dilute, and one also has the feeling that the grapes had a hard time ripening.
1 star
Aia Vecchia
Aia Vecchia Lagone IGT 2007
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with iodine and black currant fruit supported by some sour accents, bell peppers, and underlying graphite. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich black current fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a fairly direct up front key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age well for 3-5 years.
2 stars
Aia Vecchia Sor Ugo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bell pepper laced with spice and cedar with some gum Arabic overtones. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit and considerable savory warmth that is supported by sour savory acidity, and by smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm finish. A child of the vintage.
1 star
Caccia al Piano
Caccia al Piano Ruith Hora Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up alcohol and hints of black currant fruit supported by some gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample and soft, with black currant fruit and moderate rather mineral acidity coupled with, glancing tannins.
1 star
Caccia al Piano Levia Gravia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and alcohol mingling with graphite and some gum Arabic, also slight bell pepper. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins; the palate is richer than the nose and also more interesting, and though here is warmth and a cedary cast to the tannins the fruit has a pleasing delicacy, and leads into a warm fairly rich fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and a nice expression of a fairly difficult year; one could drink it now, though it has the legs to age well for 5-8 years.
2 stars
Terre del Marchesato
Terre del Marchesato Emilio Primo Vermentino IGT 2008
Screw cap. Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some herbs, mingled with minerality and some tart citric notes that provide direction and depth. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality supported by peppery spice and moderately intense bitterness that flows into a fairly bitter mineral finish.
1 star
Terre del Marchesato Papeo IGT 2007
Huge & heavy bottle. The wine is brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with very ripe white berry fruit supported by alcohol and some butterscotch; it seems to be casting about as if it were trying to find its way. Also alcohol and hints of dried mushrooms. On the palate it's ample, and savory, with powerful minerality more than fruit, supported by spice and underlying bitterness.
1 star
Terre del Marchesato Tarabuso IGT 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol mingled with iodine and some greenish spice, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cassis fruit overshadowed by cedary tannins with some minerality, which flow into a cedar laced splintery finish.
1 star
Terre del Marchesato Marchesale IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright slightly greenish cedar mingled with hardwood ash and spice, and some underlying black currant fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich black berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and some balsamic accents that flow into a fairly long greenish finish that's a little drier and more tannic than I'd have liked.
1 star
Terre del Marchesato Emilio Primo Rosso IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is very fresh, and very young, with powerful cassis fruit supported by some graphite shavings and some sweetness, also greenish accents and some concord grape; it ahs a luscious curviness about it that brings a starlet to mind. On the palate it's ample, with rich black currant fruit supported by some savory bitterness, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean black currant finish with warm savory notes that give depth. Pleasant in a very young key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, light stews, or simple roasts. Expect the bottle to go quickly
2 stars
Le Grascete
Le Grascete Grale Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with iodine and graphite shavings mingled with alcohol and some cassis fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with bright black currant fruit supported by brambly acidity and alcoholic warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich cassis laced finish. Pleasant in an up-front international key, with a fair amount of power, and will drink well with foods. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Le Grascete Antero IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with a rush of grilled bell pepper supported by warmth, alcohol, and some graphite shavings. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by graphite laced tannins and mineral acidity that flow into a clean bright mineral finish with graphite underpinning. Pleasant, in a light, rather scrappy key, and will drink very well with foods in the short term, while it also has the wherewithal to age well for a few years. Expect the bottle to go quickly.,
2 stars
Poggio al Tesoro
Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole IGT 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with strong gooseberry laced with some greenish accents, and underlying alcohol, though gooseberry is what stands out -- Sauvignon? On the palate it's ample, with bright white berry fruit supported by savory notes, mineral acidity and spice that flow into a clean savory tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well as an aperitif or with fish or white meats.
2 stars
Poggio al Tesoro Sondraia Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections,. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by cassis and some greenish notes. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean greenish acidity and considerable spicy warmth.
1 star
Poggio al Tesoro Dedicato a Walter IGT 2006
Impenetrable black pyrope with cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced black currant fruit supported by some greenish notes and a certain pungency that gain depth from spice. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample, and oaky, with moderately intense cassi laced berry fruit supported by dusky bitter tannins that flow into a clean decidedly bitter cedar laced finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found, and also a bit less oak.
1 star
Poggio al Tesoro Mediterra IGT 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with berry fruit laced with some bell pepper and pleasing spice, and underlying graphite shavings. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cassis laced with minerality and chalk, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh mineral laced cassis finish. A touch more brightness to the fruit might have been nice, but it is pleasant, and will drink well with succulent red meats. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars
Le Macchiole
Le Macchiole Paleo Bianco IGT 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with greenish accents and spice, and some tropical fruit, with underlying butterscotch and hints of cedar. On the palate it's ample and bright, with fairly rich clean mineral laced acidity supported by smooth sweet tannins from wood, and by clean bright acidity that flows into a deft finish. Pleasant, and the palate is at present more interesting than the nose - this is youth - it will drink nicely as an aperitif and will also age nicely for 3-5 years- In short, it has something to say.
2 stars
Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is tremendously oaky, a great rush of bitter cedar with some alcohol that covers most everything, and is, to be frank, a bit offputting. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable oaky bitterness that flows into a decidedly bitter cedar laced finish. The wine brings to mind those geese who are nailed to the floor and force fed to fatten their livers, only here the feed is oak.
1 star
Casa di Terra
Casa di terra Vermentino IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights and bright brassy highlights. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents and cut flowers laced with sea salt and some tropical fruit, in particular, hints of pineapple and apricot. But greenish overall. On the palate it's ample, with bright tart mineral laced lemony fruit supported by bright lemony acidity and by peppery accents that lead into clean lemony finish with peppery spice. It's bracing, and will work quite well as an aperitif with egg or cheese based antipasti, or with fish at table. Especially succulent grilled fish along the lines of sea bass, or even salmon.
2 stars
Casa di Terra Allegra Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour raspberry fruit supported by lemony acidity and some greenish accents; nicely balanced and there is also heather and sage form a Tuscan field. On the palate it's bright, with considerable minerality supported by moderate red berry fruit and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a distinctly mineral finish. It will work well as an aperitif, and because of its minerality will contrast richer dishes better than some other rosés.
2 stars
Casa di Terra Maronea Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby; poured ink. The bouquet at the outset brings to mind a slim Jim, something Americans of my generation will identify with, but others may not -- it was a spicy meat snack sold at news-stands; as it opens savory accents and bell pepper emerge. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and spice, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have some savory accents, and flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish. Will drink well with succulent roast or light stews.
2 stars
Casa di Terra Mosaico Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black Almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some black pepper. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by slightly mineral black currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright black currant finish. Fairly direct, but pleasant, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will age nicely for 3-5 years or more.
2 stars
Casa di Terra Moreccio Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope. The bouquet is a bit funky, with berry fruit laced with some nail polish remover and wet green leather. Not as clean as it might be. On the palate it's ample, with moderate cherry cassis fruit supported by warm splintery tannins that have a bitter underpinning. Fairly direct, and up front, not much in the way of complexity.
1 star
Serni Fulvio Luigi
Serni Fulvio Luigi Campofitto IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some gooseberry laced with spice and some greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with savory accents and minerality supported by peppery spice that flows into a fairly bright savory finish. Direct, and fairly up front, what you see is what you get.
1 star
Serni Fulvio Luigi Arcanto Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pink, with electric pink reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by heather from a filed in the sun, and by slightly sour raspberry fruit. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour berry fruit supported by citric acidity and smooth, light tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. Pleasant, and will be nice either as an aperitif or with picnic foods, or even at a cookout, especially one that features fish on the grill.
2 stars
Serni Fulvio Luigi Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is young and fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit that has some bell pepper jam accents, and is supported by brisk vegetal acidity and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while direction comes from lively berry fruit acidity with greenish accents, and it all flows into a fairly long alcoholic finish with greenish fruit underpinning. Charged, but pleasant, and will drink well with flavorful grilled meats or stews, also with simple roasts. I found it growing upon me. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars
Campo al Mare
Campo al Mare Vermentino Campo al Mare Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Barry yellow with some greenish accents and pale brassy reflections. The bouquet is pungent, with sour white fruit supported by greenish acidity and overripe (?) flowers, while there are also savory almost balsamic accents as well. On the palate it's full, and quite savory, with moderately rich sour white berry fruit supported by savory acidity that flows into a fairly charged savory finish. In short, it's a wine that feels the influence of the sea. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with fish based antipasti, egg dishes, or grilled or roasted fish.
2 stars
Campo al Mare Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit and plums supported by spice, nutmeg in particular, and floral accents, with some alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit that has a black currant overlay, and gains direction from black currant acidity, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, and polished enough that they seem smaller than they are. Pleasant in an international key, and will drink quite well with foods: worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars
La Pineta
La Pineta Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with black currant fruit laced with berry fruit jam, wet leather and hints of iodine. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with fairly sweet black currant fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet graphite laced tannins that flow into a bright graphite finish with clean sweet cassis underpinning. Pleasant in a decidedly international fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Pianali Biserno
Pianali Biserno Coronato Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with barnyard tang mingled with balsamic notes, greenish acidity, and warmth; also some savory spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich languid cherry cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean ample cassis finish. A bit of a surprise, because I usually associate this sort of nose with tarter brighter fruit on the body, and here we have a degree of languid overripeness. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
