Chianti Rufina Presentation: 2008 Vino D'Annata and 2007 Chianti Rufina Riserva

The introduction I wrote last year still holds, and I will therefore reprint it:.

Of the various "lesser" Chianti appellations that came into being in the 1930s, when legislators provided legal recognition for what was a common practice among wine merchants -- adding the word "Chianti" to any wine from Central Tuscany to associate it with the already renowned wines from the Chianti Classico region, and therefore increase its marketability -- Chianti Rufina is the one that probably least needed the assistance, and in an odd way has been most hindered by the association.

Because the excellence of the Rufina area has long been known: It was one of the four Tuscan wine-making regions singled out by Grand Duke Cosimo III De'Medici in 1716 (he called it Pomino, which is now a distinct appellation; the other three are what is now Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and an area of the Upper Valdarno towards Arezzo whose wine-making significance has since paled).

And also because, of the various "lesser Chiantis" it is the most distinct from Chianti Classico: unlike the others, Chianti Rufina shares no borders with Chianti Classico, and Chianti Rufina is also geographically quite distinct from Chianti Classico. The region is topographically wilder, with the vineyards planted along the flanks of several valleys that extend into the Apennines, and are surrounded by much higher mountains whose cool night breezes guarantee significant day-night temperature excursions that in turn favor the accumulation of aroma-producing compounds in the grapes.

All this leads to Chianti Rufina's wines tending to have distinctive, very well developed bouquets, and also tending to be very long lived, thanks to the relatively cooler temperatures in the vineyards; these cooler temperatures result in higher acidities, and acidity in a wine in turn provides aging potential.

And now to the specifics of the wines presented, the 2008 Chianti Rufina and the 2007 Chianti Rufina Riserva. Both are good, though not truly exceptional vintages - I have the impression that 2007 is slightly superior to 2008, though I am still thinking about this - and both yielded fine wines in a variety of styles.

One thing I did note was, in some producers, a greater emphasis on ripeness and concentration, and relatively lower acidities coupled with high alcohol contents. These characteristics come about when the winemaker uses the criterion of polyphenolic ripeness (the ripeness and maturity of tannins) rather than sugar content to decide when to begin to harvest, and are due to the fact that polyphenolic ripeness lags behind sugar content; by the time it is reached the sugar levels have climbed enough to produce wines with 14 or more percent alcohol, while grape acidities, which decline with increasing ripeness, are down. To be quite honest, I am not a fan of polyphenolic ripeness, and have explained why here.


And Now, The Wines:

Azienda Agricola Colognole

Azienda Agricola Colognole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violet laced cherry fruit that has some slightly jammy undertones and is supported by delicate acidity. Youthful and pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by brisk mineral acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a bright finish. It's scrappy, and if you like this style, which is far removed from studied, smooth, polished wines, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also be nice with fried meats and vegetables. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a nice balance between cedar and berry fruit, and some slightly brambly balsamic acidity as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich red berry fruit supported by smooth dusky tannins that have an underlying cedar dust bitterness, and by moderately intense almost citric acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but will be going places, and will work quite well with succulent meats or hearty stews. Expect it to age well for a decade or more
2 stars


Azienda Agricola Frascole

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is quite fresh, with jammy red berry fruit that does have a greenish vegetal underpinning and some red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a deft decidedly bitter burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, though I might have liked a little more acidity to it -- it's not flat, but the tannins carry as much as the acidity, and I'm not sure what its prospects are for aging. In short, a wine to drink within 2-3 years, I think.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Frascole Riserva Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart berry fruit laced with balsamic cedar and some wet stable straw. Nice balance and has quite a bit to say, in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, with rich rather dusky berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet savory tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Again, quick to write, but very nice balance, and will drink quite well with roasts or stews in the near term, while also blessed with the capacity to age for a decade and perhaps more. Quite nice in a traditional key, and worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Il Prato

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry with black cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up moderate berry fruit and some spicy accents with underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by soft sweet tannins that lay a warm burr over the tongue and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. It is, for me, overly smooth and overly soft; though there is sufficient acidity to keep it from settling completely it is lacking in definition, and I would expect more from a Riserva.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Travignoli

Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and paler rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and red berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and hints of stable straw; nice balance is a slightly rutting key. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright slightly bitter berry fruit supported by fairly rich acidity and moderately intense tannins that drag a warm bitter burr over the tongue and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant; it will drink quite well with meat-sauced pasta dishes, stews, and also roasts, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Villa Travignoli Tegolaia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy plum fruit supported by cedar and hints of gum Arabic. Distinctly international in feel. On the palate it's ample and rich in a languid sort of way, with cherry plum fruit that takes direction more from graphite bitterness than from acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet graphite laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish with tannic underpinning and some acidity. Some acidity, and this is important because the wine is not completely settled, and the acidity does contribute some, but I would have liked more of it, because the overall impression is one of soft not quite overabundance. I would have preferred a little less ripeness coupled with more tightness and definition. If you like the style it will drink well with rare, fairly lean meats, along the lines of roast beef.
1 star

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with cedar and some graphite shavings supporting some red berry fruit that has slightly jammy accents. On the palate it's quite direct, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have slight brambly cedar accents and flow into a warm tannic finish. The nose is behind the palate at this point; it's not a wine of tremendous complexity or depth, but is pleasant and will support what it's served with (meat based pasta dishes, light stews, simple grilled meats) quite well. When the nose catches up to the palate it will be a nice day-to-day wine.
2 stars

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Grati Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is rich and jammy, with cherries and to a greater degree prunes supported by some cedar and hints of cinnamon stick. Opulent, rather like a buxom starlet in a glass. On the palate it's ample and soft, but not without direction; there's moderately rich cherry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, broadly woven, and greenish. I'd have liked more tightness to it -- it spreads every which way -- but the acidity does keep a degree of interest, and it going, perhaps stolidly, but is going, in a chosen direction. It will work well with drier roasts or light stews.
1 star

Cantina Sociale Vicas Tel: +39 055 831 4020

Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with brambly acidity and hints of stable straw mingled with some balsamic notes and sea salt. Not much fruit, and stylistically it's a bit more rustic than some. But pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity that has some balsamic overtones, and by tannins that are fairly aggressive, laying a warm burr over the tongue and flowing into a decidedly tannic finish with warm acidic underpinning. Pleasant if you like the style, which is to the rustic end of the scale, and it will drink well with simple stews or grilled meats, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Given its acidity it will also age well for 5-10 years and perhaps more.
2 stars

Cantine F.lli Bellini

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with tart berry fruit supported by some acidity and brambly accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth brambly tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Up front, and a food wine that will do a good job of supporting what it's served with -- hearty soups, meat based pasta dishes, quickly cooked meats and so on. In short, one of those wines one sets a bottle of out at the table, and quickly has to set out another because people drink it while they eat.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Dreolino

Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly red berry fruit supported by savory accents and some vegetal notes; there are also hints of airy berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's a little smoother than some, and rather graceful in a light key; it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and I found myself thinking about lamb chops scottadito as I sipped it. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit mingled with petroleum and greenish acidity; with more swishing the petroleum fades to reveal brambly berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean tannins that are fairly loose, but are clean, and flow into a clean rather tart finish. It's more direct than I would expect a Riserva to be, but I found myself rather enjoying it. It's not a sipping wine, unless you like fairly tart acidity, but it will work nicely with simple roasts or stews.
2 stars

Scopetani s.r.l

Scopetani Risasso Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by cedar and savory accents; it's fairly direct. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly tart finish. A pleasant food wine that will support what it is served with, helping it to shine, and though it's not long on depth nor complexity it will drink well with foods, and that is what wine is all about.
1 star

Scopetani Vigna Macereto Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is very fresh for a Riserva, with jammy violets mingled with cinnamon and nutmeg spice; it brings to mind Jayne Mansfield stuffed into a glass. On the palate it's ample, soft, and jammy, though there is some underlying acidity to provide direction. I also found it a bit short -- the voluptuousness suddenly stops, leaving try tannins, and to get more of it one must take a second sip. Because of its softness it will work best with drier meats, but to be quite honest I would like more definition and backbone in a Riserva.
1 star

Fattoria Di Basciano Tel: +39 055 839 7034

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with lively cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by hints of graphite shavings and jammy accents. It is a sunny wine. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported more by graphite bitterness than acidity, and this comes as a bit of a surprise; it feels as if they let the grapes ripen very much -- the jam and hints of plum in the berries -- and as a result acidity fell off, and tannins, including oak tannins step forward. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but I prefer a greater role for acidity, especially in Chianti Rufina.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar that has almost milky accents supporting some bitterness and hints of berry fruit, which are largely overshadowed. Very young in a heavily oaked key. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by savory oak-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish. It is frankly too young, and needs another year to digest the oak that it contains. At which point it will still be oaky, but nice if you like the style

Fattoria di Grignano

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright brambly berry fruit supported by greenish accents and hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by rather thin brambly tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter tannic finish. It's fairly aggressive, and up front, a food wine that will do a nice job of accompanying red sauced pasta dishes, lasagna, and also quickly grilled meats or light stews. If you prefer smoother softer reds it won't work for you -- as a sipping wine -- but it may surprise you at table, because it really will work well with foods.
2 stars

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a youthful key, with red berry fruit overshadowed by cedar and spice. In its defense it is very young, and the nose is obviously still coming together. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by bitterness and savory notes, which predominate over the fruit. Too much oak, for me.
1 star

Fattoria Il Capitano - Azienda Agricola BalbiTel. +39 055 831 5600

Fattoria il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and some dusky balsamic notes mingled with stable straw and red berry fruit; it's fairly old style. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with sour berry fruit supported rather flighty tannins that flow into a fairly dry tart tannic finish. Quite direct, and more simple than I might have hoped; I'd also have liked greater richness of fruit.
1 star

Fattoria il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by spice, cedar, and some heather. Fairly traditional in feel. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a brambly burr and flow into a clean rather brambly finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, and is a food wine of the sort you can set out with pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, or light stews, in the certainty that the bottle will go quickly. Not long on depth nor complexity, but quite drinkable.
2 stars

Fattoria il Lago

Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by dusky notes and tart berry fruit acidity with underlying savory accents. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have yet to integrate into the wine; rather, they are rather dry and work from the outside as it were. The effect is rather disjointed.
1 star

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with cedar mingled with cherry plum fruit and some almost sandalwood spice. One has the impression, also from the color, that the grapes ripened considerably before they were picked. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with plum fruit supported by alcohol and dusky tannic graphite bitterness, while there is also some acidity, but not very much, and it flows into a graphite-laced bitter finish. I found it excessively smooth and soft, with acidity wanting; bitterness carries it but bitterness is less interesting.
1 star

Fattoria I Veroni

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Barrel sample
Black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable wet stable straw and some spice, mingled with lathered horse. In short, animal. On the palate it's pleasant, though a touch softer than I might have wanted, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that also contribute dusky bitterness, but only moderate acidity; the tannins and bitterness do more to carry the wine than the acidity, and though they do a good job more acidity would have been better.

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is disjointed, with much oak -- greenish cedar accents, in particular -- combining with cherry plum fruit; it's obviously developing. On the palate it's its ample, soft, and brooding, with powerful plum fruit supported by tannic bitterness that has smoky accents, and slightest of acidities that flow into a plum laced finish. Very big, very soft, and very ripe, with a fair amount of oak too; if you like the style you will like it. If you prefer the scrappier more traditional style you will not.

Fattoria Lavacchio

Fattoria Lavacchio Il Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a languid sort of way, with plum cherry fruit supported by some graphite shavings and sweetness; one has the impression that the grapes were very ripe when picked, and not particularly acidic. With further swishing some greenish accents also emerge, but the basic cast remains. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bitter berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by warm acidity that though not too pronounced is more than I expected to encounter from the nose; the finish is decidedly bitter and cedar laced. It's a bit up the air yet, and needs a few more months to come together. I would have, however, preferred more acidity and less bitterness; I think it will settle quickly.
1 star

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, and rather luscious, with plum cherry fruit supported by spice and cedary accents. Decidedly voluptuous. On the palate it's less rich than I had expected, with considerable cedar-laced bitterness but not much fruit. I would have expected more.
1 star

Fattoria Selvapiana

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, which can happen in a barrel sample, though swishing brings up brambly berry fruit and some sour berry fruit acidity. Promising. On the palate it's bright, with rich berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tart berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's quick to write, but harmonious, and though it is not really together yet -- it brings to mind a puzzle whose pieces are in their respective positions but spread out -- will come together quite nicely, and bring joy to a meal. In short, a wine to wait for, because it will be worth the wait.

Fattoria Selvapiana Vigneto Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed - this can happen with a barrel sample -- but reveals bright berry fruit and berry fruit jam, with nice underlying acidity. Still very much up in the air. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a sweetish cast to them and flow into a clean dry tannic finish. Promising, and will go places, though it will need at least a couple of years form when it is bottled to come into its own.

Fattorie Galiga e Vetrice

Fattoria Galiga e Vetrice Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is fresh and very young, with lively red berry fruit with some jammy sweet accents and hints of violets and -- one writes what one smells -- bubblegum. Direct and up front. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have some graphite bitterness, and flow into a bitter almost mineral finish. It's ample, soft, and with fruit that's a bit riper than I might have liked -- more plum than berry, and the acidity doesn't have a firm hand on the tiller.
1 star

Fattoria Galiga e Vetrice Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, surprisingly so for a Riserva, with jammy berry fruit mingled with candied peaches. This can happen with a barrel sample. On the palate it's moderately intense, with rather thin sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and moderately full tannins that have some mineral accents and flow into a rather sour finish. There's not as much depth as I would expect from a Riserva, but it will drink well with foods.

Marchese Gondi

Marchese Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Looks quite young, and is also inky. The bouquet is eye opening, with jammy berry fruit supported by nutmeg and candied fruit; I have the impression that the grapes were extremely ripe when they were harvested, and I'm not finding any of the brambly accents nor zestiness I associate with Rufina. The palate is not completely flat, but does have jammy fruit supported by cedary accents with some hazelnut notes as well, and hints of cold coffee. It's a bit disquieting, rather like when one steps into a hole in the dark -- this is not what I expect of Marchesi Gondi, and while the second sip reveals some berry fruit acidity, and underlying tannins, I find myself hoping that what we see is the vintage, and not a change in technique (a new emphasis on polyphenolic ripeness) on the part of the winery. I miss the tight zesty acidity and bracing tannins of vintages past; rich ripe fruit is a poor substitute.
1 star

Marchese Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy cherry fruit laced with prunes and underlying sweetness; there is also cedar and some vegetal accents. Frankly voluptuous, and fairly international in style. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a cedary underpinning. The palate is much more traditional than the nose, which is (I hope) in a phase. In short, the wine is up in the air and won't really know what it wants to be before it comes back down to ground, and that will take a couple of years. If it follows the palate it will be interesting, and will also have nice aging potential. But only time will tell.

Podere il Pozzo

Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, in a rather rustic key, with cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and some animal notes, in particular wet straw, and some underlying graphite as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brisk cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a tart tannic finish with some sour cherry accents. Pleasant in a direct way, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats or vegetables.
2 stars

Podere il Pozzo VignaVecchia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a rustic key, with balsamic notes and stable straw mingled with brambly acidity; there's also some sour berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth, nicely balanced cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish. It needs another year or perhaps two to come together, but promises well, and will work nicely with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars

Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense in an old school way, with warm rather tart red berry fruit supported by hints of leather and some cedar. Fairly direct, but pleasant; it brings back memories. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by tannins that have greenish notes, and by moderate acidity; it's frankly old style, and makes me think of the bottles we used to have when we went out to restaurants in the 70s -- someone not fogged by nostalgia will likely say that the fruit isn't rich enough, and that the tannins, which are rather dry, overshadow, but the wine will drink nicely with foods and is one of those things that -- in my experience -- can go very fast. Not, perhaps, with the "refined" wine drinker, but very much with people for whom wine is a part of the table setting. In short, if you like this style you will enjoy it. But it's not for everyone.
1 star

Castllo di Nipozzano - Marchesi de'Frescobaldi

Castello di Nipozzano - Marchesi de'Frescobaldi Nipozzano Riserva Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and gives an impression of developing; there's cedar with deft spice and some red berry fruit, and it has a pondered feel to it, but has yet to come together. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a cedary underpinning from small oak that gradually emerges, and predominates in the finish, accompanied by some savory accents. It's not quite a work in progress, but does need another year at least to come together, at which point it will be pleasant in a deftly oaked fruit driven international style. Expect it to age well for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars

Castello di Nipozzano - Marchesi de'Frescobaldi Vigneto Montesoldi Riserva Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope ruby black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with deft cherry fruit supported by equally deft cedar and spice; it's nicely balanced in a very young international key, and with respect to the other Chanti Rufinas (this is also true of the other Frescobaldi wine) is quite distinct. Nice balance, and elegant, in an international key, and has quite a bit to say too. On the palate it's full, with deft cherry plum fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and warm rather brambly cedar acidity that flow into a clean cedar laced finish. Elegant though very young; the oak is more apparent than it will be: it needs another couple of years to come together, and will age well for a decade or more. If you like powerful fruit driven wines in the international style you will enjoy it very much, and those with more traditional tastes will also find things to enjoy. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio

Castello del Trebbio Chianti 2008
Black almandine with garnet reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some spice and slight vegetal accents. Nice balance in a very young key. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and moderately intense slightly splintery tannins that flow into a clean splintery sour cherry finish. Pleasant enough in a youthful direct key, and will drink well with simple pasta dishes, quickly grilled meats, or light stews, and also has enough acidity to work well with fried meats and vegetables. It's scrappy, and will work well with foods.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is muted -- the wine is very young -- though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by cedar and some spice. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported more by savory bitterness than by acidity, and it flows into a rather soft bitter finish. It's trying terribly hard, but I found it to be lacking in acidity, and fear that with time it will fade and fall flat. Acidity provides the backbone of the wine, as well as its longevity, and here there isn't as much as I would have liked.
1 star

Wandering Puglia: Gioia del Colle DOC

My trip to Puglia, continued: It was late afternoon, and cold and windy by the time we arrived at the Distilleria Cassano in Gioia del Colle. Not to taste distillates -- the Cassano family ceased operations years ago and donated the structure, which is quite beautiful, to the town, which is now transforming it into an exhibition area -- but rather the wines of the Gioia del Colle Appellation, and more specifically Primitivo.

Why Primitivo? Because the varietal is said to have first been identified in Gioia del Colle, towards the end of the 1700s, by Francesco Indellicati, a parish priest who went into a vineyard, selected a vine whose grapes ripened early, calling it Primativo because of this characteristic, and planted cuttings it at Liponti, a hamlet in the township of Gioia del Colle.

The farmers working with the varietal quickly realized that in addition to ripening early, Primitivo starts its vegetative cycle much later than most other varietals. Considering Goia del Colle's location, in the heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the high plains that form Puglia's backbone, which often suffer devastating late spring frosts), this characteristic was just as important as early ripening, as it meant that the vines were much less vulnerable than others. Primitivo rapidly spread throughout the highlands, becoming one of Puglia's most important grapes.

But what is Primitivo? Obviously, since Francesco Indellicati selected it from an extant vineyard, it had been growing there for a while, and some have gone so far as to suggest that its name, Primitivo, also refers to its being the original grape. This is of course an exaggeration, and now researchers from America (drawn to Primitivo because of its close resemblance to Zinfandel) and elsewhere have concluded that Primitivo (and Zinfandel) derive from an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski. Since Croatia boasts several close relatives to Crljenak Kaštelanski, whereas Puglia's Primitivo lacks close relatives, it is likely that someone, centuries ago, brought cuttings of Crljenak Kaštelanski to Puglia and planted them, discovering that they were much better suited to Puglia's climate and soils than they were to Croatia's.

And this brings us to the wines. As I said, Primitivo ripens early; the harvest is generally in early September, and the resultant wines tend to be powerful. Inky purple is a common color, while the fruit balance tends towards lush chewy ripe prune and dried prune, with underlying sweetness, and moderately intense smooth soft tannins. Acidities tend to be low, and one would expect this given the ripeness achieved by the grapes.

These are Puglian grapes that ripen under the fierce Puglian sun, and sugar contents -- and therefore alcohol levels -- tend to be high; 14-15% is quite normal, and those who aim for more concentration and greater ripeness can reach 18%. This in wines that are dry, and to be frank I found myself preferring the less alcoholic wines to the 18% crowd, which I found rather strident. Oak use varies from producer to producer; some use large wood and steel, and other small oak. I personally prefer steel and large oak because they have less impact upon both fruit and acidity. I find small oak to be more likely to overshadow the nuances of the grape, and to add polish that is really not necessary, especially if the grapes are harvested quite ripe, with lower initial acidities.

There is also something called Primitivo Dolce, which ferments to 18% alcohol, at which point the yeasts give up, but retains sufficient residual sugar to be semi-sweet to sweet. These can be quite nice, as sugar and (richer) fruit remain in play, balancing the alcohol. Sipping wines, something to be savored the way one might a Recioto or a Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, and something to look into, if you like this style. These sweeter wines also have the capacity to age quite well, for a decade or more.

The Wines, Tasted on November 30, 2009

Azienda Agricola Fatalone
Fatalone Bianco Spinomarino Puglia IGT Greco
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral with some hints of gunflint and tart slightly sour citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by some minerality and gunflint bitterness that flow into a long warm bitter tart finish that becomes more savory in the finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. If you like smoother more international wines it won't work as well for you, but I rather enjoyed it. Nice scrappy character.
2 stars

Fatalone Gioia del Colle DOC Primitivo 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and wood smoke mingled with slight balsamic notes and some cherry fruit. A bit rustic, but pleasant in this key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm spicy, almost petillant burr, and flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that becomes savory as it fades. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Vini Coppi
Coppi Siniscalco Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, more swishing brings up balsamic notes and some wet leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a rather green savory finish. It's a little tired, though not quite oxidized.
1 star

Cantine Lanzolla
Cantine Lanzolla Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by some cedar and a certain airiness that brings sweetness to mind. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have an angry smoky burr, and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. It's quite aggressive, but if you like the style, which is fairly rustic, will work very well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Patruno Perniola
Battaglio Primitivo Rosso Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with fruit that's overshadowed by oak to a considerable degree, said oak emerges as coffee laced with vanilla, and carries on at length. Too much oak on what was a good base, I think.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit laced with balsam and wood smoke, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a distinct smoky overlay and some acidity, and flow into a smoky finish. It's quite charged, and there is ample raw material, but it is to a degree masked by wood.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with not much fruit. The palate is pleasant in a rather wild key, with strong savory minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish with some hazelnut overtones. It's a touch over the top for me.
1 star

Cantine di Scj'o
Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with red name, 13.5% alcohol. Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful rather cheeky key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with white name, 14.5% alcohol. Impenetrable pyrope with purplish garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with some greenish accents and hints of marzipan; it comes across as being charged. On the palate it's, well, flabby: there's ample soft rather sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an angry smoky burr and flow into a smoky finish. Something odd happened and it is like a fat man who has slipped and is sitting in a puddle: Yes, it makes a splash, but something is off.
1 star

Cantine del Colle
Cantine del Colle Falco Grillaio Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of alcohol and some warmth, and spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite savory, with quite a bit of cedar as well, which overshadows most everything.

Cantine del Colle Gioa del Colle Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable alcohol and moderate fruit supported by some minerality and wet leaves, and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcoholic warmth and with tannins that have a deft cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more rustic key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuliani Raffaele
Giuliani Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky spice and some graphite shavings; it has a brooding quality to it that I rather enjoy, and also hints of licorice root. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smoky tannins and wood smoke acidity that flow into a long balsamic finish with wood smoke and hints of animal hair blended into the fruit. Quite elegant, and will work very wellw ith succulent meats.
2 stars

Giuliani 1922 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
This is a sweet Pirmitivo; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance, and invites repeated sniffs; with more sniffs some vegetal accents and green peppers also emerge. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that combines sweetness with savory accents. Pleasant, though I found it to be a little short; it's a wine that will drink very well with cheeses or that one could simply sip with friends.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cannito
Cannito Scudo Sannita Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Pimitivo, Negroamaro and Montepulciano; it's poured pyrope ink with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cumin and spice, and some cedar as well. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rather dry berry fruit supported by smoky acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish that becomes decidedly savory as the fruit fades. Pleasant if you like the style, which is a bit rustic, and fresh; it will drink well with succulent meats or light stews.
2 stars

Cannito Drùmon Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black brick rim. The bouquet is alcoholic with a fair amount of wood smoke and a degree of cedar as well, mingled with wet leaves and some balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality but not much fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It comes across as trying very hard, but falls short. If it tried less hard I think it would be more successful.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Plantamura
Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and leafy underbrush mingled with plum fruit and some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that have a smooth sweet underpinning and flow into a clean fresh finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and alcohol mingled with wood smoke and slight menthol. It's not as fresh as the base. On the palate it's ample, and hot, with soft sweet plum berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a warm sweet plum berry fruit finish with underlying balsamic notes. I found it more tired than the 2007, and more settled too. It tries hard to be a big wine, and this is not a good thing.
1 star

Cantine Guttarolo
Guttarolo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intriguing, with leathery plum cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and hints of honeycomb mingled with warmth and spice. Pleasant, and invites another sniff. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet dusky tannins that flow into a clean sweet fruit laced peppery finish, and though it may sound strange overtones works well in a charged, very ripe key. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and I found it growing upon me. A quite successful extreme ripening, and a very interesting wine.
86-8**

Pietraventosa
Pietraventosa Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with brick rim that has some almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with mentholated spice and some wet green leather. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; it's harmonious and quite pleasant to drink, though given its power I would pair it with foods rather than drink it by itself. What foods? A hearty stew, or a succulent roast.
2 stars

Pietraventosa Ossimoro Murgia IGT 2005
This is a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and plum fruit supported by some menthol and hints of cumin seed, and also some hazelnut, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright warm sour berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with leathery accents. It0s interesting, and pleasant in a key far far removed from Merlot; it will drink well with roasts or stews and is worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars

Cantine Ferri Purpurius Primitivo Puglia IGT 2008
Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is pleasant for a tank sample, with delicate prune fruit laced with floral accents. Pleasant, and also sweet, with a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite sweet -- almost brings a recioto to mind in terms of sweetness, and with prune fruit to provide backing. It has yet to develop, and we shall see. If it continues as is, it's going to be off the chart, and very particular. Good too, and worth seeking out if you like the style.

Polvanera
Polvanera 16 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
This is strong, 16%, because that's what the sunlight brings. The wine is deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with spice and some mentholated accents, and hints of green leather as well. Also sweetness that is at least in part alcohol. On the palate it's ample and ricvh, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory overlay and flow into a long warm finish; there is also some balsamic acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. It's a massive wine, and as such particular -- a whole swath of people will find it too much -- but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it will do interesting things as it ages too.
2 stars

Polvanera 17 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
This is even stronger, 16.5%, and is from a different vineyard that gets even more sun. The wine is impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft prune fruit supported by hints of menthol and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with underlying jammy accents. Quite harmonious, and interesting to sniff. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some balsamic overtones and flow into a warm cherry balsamic finish with lasting warmth and cedar laced tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, in a massive and over the top key; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but -- as was the case with 16 -- you'll have to like charged sweet alcoholic wines to like it.
2 stars


Chiaromonte
Chiaromonte Muro Sant'Angelo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and alcohol mingled with slight minerality and wet leather, and, if one concentrates, some prune. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into lasting warmth. It comes across as trying too hard, and I found myself wishing it had more depth to the fruit, which is rather angry and, thanks to the tannins, hot.
1 star

Chiaromonte Primitovo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit laced with cumin and cedar, and supported by wood smoke and some leathery accents, with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity and alcohol. Alcohol of the mind-bending variety; the wine is 18% and dry. On the palate it's quite charged, and unbalanced, with moderate fruit that is overshadowed by angry cedary tannins and tremendous warmth that lasts and lasts. It's like something out of a circus sideshow: interesting, perhaps, but in a way that brings a shudder and is not pleasant to drink. At least for me; I found it to be too much.
1 star

Winding down, thanks again to the fine folks at Radici for organizing our trip, and the Comune of Gioia del Colle and the Gioia del Colle DOC Consozio for putting together the tasting, which I very much enjoyed, and learned much from.

A Brunello Vertical: 12 wines beginning with a 1982

Brunello di Montalcino has a certain mystique to it, and I was therefore quite flattered when Carlo Macchi called to ask if I wanted to come to a Brunello vertical he was organizing. Especially because Carlo was selecting the wines; and was going a ways back: The first wine was a 1982, and therefore predated much of the “innovation” that has swept though Montalcino and the rest of Italy since then. And what do I mean by “innovation?”

First of all, the use of barriques, the small (225 liter) French oak barrels that have a tremendous impact upon the wine they contain – in 1982 most everyone was still using botti, large oak casks that allow microxygenation through the pores in the staves, but have considerably less impact upon the wines. Second, the search for ripeness and concentration, the “gobs of fruit” one finds mentioned in glowing terms in certain publications that had (and have) a tremendous influence on winemakers, many of whom reworked their wines to make them more appealing to said publications.

None of that in 1982, as it was all in the future. Truth be told, there wasn't much of it by the early 1990s either (even in wineries that have changed greatly since then), and with the final wines (we finished with a 1999) Carlo selected producers less subject to the siren's call.

Bottom line, Carlo provided us with a beautiful look at Brunello as it used to be, and it was fascinating to see how the wines had developed. Because they did, very well, displaying a richness and depth that were in some cases simply extraordinary. And that more recent wines by the wineries that have since changed course, becoming softer, smoother and more approachable, simply lack.

The Wines

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino 1982
Pale brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly off, alas, though leather and warm acidity do emerge, supported by leafiness. It must have been quite acidic in its youth, because the acidity carries quite well even now. On the palate it's tart, and quite dry, with sour berry fruit supported by clean leathery tannins that flow into a rather tart savory finish. It's like looking across a divide; though the bottle is a little off it does express an otherwordly quality and a generational divide. Interesting, and a window into the past.

Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino 1983
Lively almandine with brownish rim and reflections. The bouquet is elegant, with sour berry fruit and a fair amount of acidity supported by clean leathery accents and hints of leaf tobacco. Great depth, and there are also hints of eucalyptus and dried leaves. Quite elegant, and has a lot to say, a wine one can converse with though it does most of the talking. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by slightly bitter tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish. Quite impressive,a nd displays a great deal of depth; it also has an otherworldly feel to it, and is one of those wines that will continue to mature indefinitely thanks to the acidity of its backbone. Goes on and on, and though it doesn't present unified front – a fellow taster says scomposto, which means disjointed – it has a great deal to say and is a wine that excites all the senses. Grandioso, and the imperfections make it even more so. With time continues to evolve, and does all sorts of interesting things, in particular intriguing hints of cumin emerge after a while, and it smooths very nicely on the palate. An eternal wine.
94

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1985
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly mature, with wet leather, underbrush, menthol, which increases with time, savory accents, alcohol, and some sour berry fruit. Quite nice in a powerful, mature key, and it shows considerable polish. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a velvety purr and flow into a clean bright cherry finish. Considerable grace and elegance in a considerably more polished key than the Soldera; a fellow taster says, and he's right, that it's very good but more obvious. And it is; there are fewer secrets to plumb. But very fine; it's like looking at a Caanova statue. Very pleasant on the palate too, and does increase in complexity with time.
92-3

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino La Casa 1986
Fairly rich garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with spice and slight greenish accents mingled with leather and bitterness, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Very fine, and there are also some animal notes. On the palate it's full, with rich sour berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet savory tannins that have a slightly leathery burr and flow into a clean bright sour finish with considerable underlying bitterness. Great elegance, and it is a wine that matches the Caparzo style, which has been remarkably consistent over the years, and takes many years to come out: The initial post-release impressions are usually not that good, but here we see what it can do given time. In short, Brunello begs patience, and the older styles of this kind even more. True to type, and impressive. It will age indefinitely.
93

Talenti Podere Pian di Conte Brunello di Montalcino 1987
Paler almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. It looks a little more mature than some of the other wines. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory sea salt and some dried flowers, mingled with leaf tobacco and very slight animal tang. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have pleasant savory accents and a slightly leather tongue-drying finish that will make it very nice with succulent red meats. Elegant, and very pleasant though a touch lower than the others, and this is in part the vintage, which wasn't quite as rich as, say, the 1985.
2 stars


Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 1988
Corked, alas. What manages to escape the corkage suggests that a good bottle would have been very nice, and quite solid.

Casanova di Neri Brunello Riserva 1990
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim, paling to onionskin at the top. The bouquet is intense, with green leather and cut leaf tobacco, which is stronger here than it was in some of the other wines; quite elegant in a mature key, and though it's not as multifaceted as some of the other older wines, there is a monolithic beauty to it. With time leather and leaf tobacco become more intense. Quite harmonious, and one could swish and sniff for a long, long time. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by brisk slightly bitter acidity, and by smooth sweet silky tannins that are a touch dry in the very finish, and flow into a clean rather dry finish with savory accents and some sour berry fruit acidity. It's quite pleasant, and very much approachable, a wine that will work quite well with foods and will make a huge impression if broken out at a festive meal, but I found it a little more direct than I might have wanted – it's statuesque and beautiful, bit lacking in depth, and I attribute this to a relative lack of acidity – there is acidity sufficient to provide direction, but it's not really bright. The Italian word that comes to mind is Mastodontico, which means hulking.
88-90

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 1993
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with hints of wood smoke and bitterness supported by leather and some leaf tobacco, also licorice root and with time mentholated and balsamic accents, while leather also increases. On the palate it's full, and bright, with clean sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have some leafy underbrush bitterness and flow into a clean rather bitter sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and I found myself preferring it to the Casanova di Neri 1990 Riserva, because it is brighter and much more nimble on its toes than the Riserva. Both of the Casanova di Neri wines display a degree of savoriness that the Casanova di Neri of today lacks. Much has changed at Casanova di Neri since these wines were made, and I discuss some of the changes in another vertical, here.
90-92

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino 1996
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is slightly off, and though others mutter about corks I find more menthol and cold coffee with some rather musty bitter orange peel and balsamic accents, and some savory accents too. On the palate it's fairly rich, though not too full, with sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rather sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and graceful in a lesser vintage key; it's not quite as bright as some of the vintages but has a willowy grace to it that is very nice. A beautiful wine, and one that has a great deal to say, for those who want to take the time to listen to it.
93

Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino 1997
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; by comparison with many of the other wines the almandine is much younger looking. The bouquet is quite different with respect to the others, with mentholated notes and some spice, mingled with toasted wood and hints of cat pee, which become sweaty with time; a fellow taster talks about the scent of a burnt steak bone atop coals. It engenders considerable discussion. On the palate it's sour, with leathery sour accents and fairly intense minerality supported by bitter fruit bitter tannins that flow into a savory bitter finish. I found it more interesting on the plaate, where there is more to plum and think about than on the nose. The palate is bright, and has a fair amount to say, in a bright key, and is quite approachable; it will work very well with succulent red meats or similar, though I might not want to sip it far from the table.
88-90

Tenuta Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1998
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit supported by sour berry acidity and leathery accents mingled with alcohol and some peppery spice with slight berry fruit acidity as well, and hints of spice. Great depth and considerable harmony too. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity that also has some red currant acidity, and is supported by smooth rather dry tannins that will do a fine job of supporting foods but are a bit too dry to work well sipping. A very fine wine that will drink well with foods, and still needs another few years to come into its own. Intriguing menthol on the nose that emerges with time. I was initially nonplussed by the 1998 vintage, but have begun to reevaluate it The 98s need time, and though not all are great many have improved considerably.
90

Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 1999
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a distinct change with respect to the other wines poured, with considerable mentholated spice mingled with berry fruit and cedar. It has a more international feel to it. On the palate it's ample, bright, and young, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very young, in a fairly international key, and is quite approachable; by comparison with some of the others it is much less faceted, and offers much less to think about. But it will drink well with foods, and is a wine I would be happy to serve to friends who are more likely to pour, drink, and enjoy a wine than to spend time thinking about what's in their glass. It's more polished, and more ammiccante – giving a come-hither look -- than some of the others, and a world apart from Case Basse and some of the other older wines. Here we see the arrival of the more international style, and a conscious desire to make wines that are more approachable and easier to drink. And it certainly was more approachable in 2003, upon its release, but is less interesting now, and with time it will separate further from the more traditional, Brunelli.
2 stars