Tasted at Vinitaly: A couple of Dolcetti from Batasiolo

With the arrival of summer in the Northern hemisphere it’s time to think about lighter, defter wines that have bracing acidity and will work well with the stock in trade of hot weather – grilled foods, fried foods, and other things that can either be cooked quickly indoors, s as to avoid heating the kitchen, or cooked outside where the heat simply rises. Dolcetto is perfect in these situations, and here are a couple of wines from Batasiolo.

Batasiolo Bricco di Vergne Dolcetto D’Alba 2004
This is a Dolcetto d’annata from high altitude vineyards, and is lively ruby and has a powerful bouquet with n abundance of forest berry fruit and bitter almond mingled with acidity and alcohol. On the palate it’s rich and direct, with bright cherry fruit supported by considerable acidity and warmth that flow into a long sour cherry finish. It’s scrappy with body, and will drink well with grilled meats, served with fairly fatty side dishes along the lines of potato or pasta salad. In short, a perfect cookout wine.
2 stars

Batasiolo Arsigà Dolcetto D’Alba 2003
This is intended to be a more important Dolcetto than the above, and also spends three months in barriques. It’s deep almandine ruby and has a powerful jammy bouquet mingled with spice; it has nice depth but is more restrained than the Bricco Vergne. On the palate it is full and smooth, with powerful red berry fruit, but reveals the influence of the hot 2003 summer in the form of reduced acidity that makes it heavier and less agile; it will drink well with rich, fairly lean meats or light stews.
1 star