A Tasting Of Chianti Colli Fiorentini

Chianti is, first of all, a well defined region between Florence and Siena, centered upon the territories of Radda, Gaiole, and Castellina in Chianti, three Florentine Communes that Florence combined into a single entity in 1384, calling it the Lega del Chianti, and charging it with the task of settling disputes with the City of Siena, by diplomatic means if possible, and by arms if necessary.

That the area also produced fine wines was merely a happy accident. But it did, and they were so good that Chianti is one of the four regions Grand Duke Cosimo III recognized in 1716, in an Edict that is the first formal recognition (anywhere) of winemaking areas, and as such marks the first establishment of appellations (the other three areas are Pomino -- what is now Chianti Rufina -- Carmignano, and an area of the Upper Valdarno towards Arezzo whose wine-making significance has since paled).

What Cosimo III recognized as Chianti is essentially what is now Chianti Classico, and when the people living in the area began to bottle their wines, they naturally put the word Chianti on the labels. This was long before labeling laws, however, and as a result there was nothing to keep those whose lands fell outside the region specified by Cosimo from putting the word Chianti, which did help sales, on their labels too. So they did.

In 1924, however, a group of 33 producers within the area Cosimo III specified banded together and established the Consorzio del Gallo Nero, whose symbol was a black rooster: Only those whose vineyards fell within the area could join, and only if they met rigorous standards (first of which, the wine had to be red). Members of the Consorzio del Gallo Nero (now Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico) were allowed to call their wines Chianti Classico, while the word Chianti came to mean everything else, and was represented by a Consorzio called Chianti Putto, which was established in 1927.

Chianti Putto was huge, and with time a number of subzones were established: Chianti Colli Fiorentini is, as one might expect, the subzone surrounding Florence. It's fairly large, resembling an upside-down horseshoe, and also quite variable, with parts bordering Chianti Classico, and others either extending into the Val D'Arno or up into the mountains behind Fiesole.

In terms of composition and production, the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Disciplinare allows producers considerable latitude: the wine must be at least 75% Sangiovese. They can use more Sangiovese, up to 100% if they want, but can also add autochthonous red varietals such as Colorino or Canaiolo (max 10% of the latter), up to 10% white varietals such as Trebbiano or Malvasia Bianca (this is a break with Chianti Classico, which has banned them), and up to 20% of the international varietals such as Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah (max 10% of a given varietal).

Wood use is also up to the producer and varies considerably; some use small wood, others large, and still others cement vats or steel tanks.

One important difference between Chianti tout court and Chianti Colli Fiorentini is the release date: whereas Chianti can be released on the first day of March, just a few months after the harvest, Chianti Colli Fiorentini must be held until September 1 (by comparison, Chianti Classico is released on October 1). The additional aging brings considerably greater maturity and complexity to the wines.

The Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentini held a tasting this fall that I was, alas, unable to attend. However, Patrizia Cantini very kindly had samples of the wines poured gathered, and I tasted them blind this January.

It was an enjoyable experience; as one might expect given the variability of terroir, composition, and wood use there were considerable variations in the wines, but I did find a number well worth seeking out. Also some that are frankly not worth seeking, and this brings up an important point. Though the producers of Chianti Colli Fiorentini are working hard to improve quality, they are years (decades, even) behind Chianti Classico. As a result, the enological landscape is much more varied; there are fine peaks, some rivaling anything else to be found in Tuscany, but also deep valleys and some topographical features that can only be termed sinkholes.

What this means is that one must select with care: Good Chianti Colli Fiorentini (the volume of which increases yearly) is quite nice. It also represents an excellent value for money because, as a general rule, Chianti Colli Fiorentini is less expensive than some of the other better known central Tuscan appellations.

The Wines, Tasted January 18 And 19 2009:

Fattoria La Colombaia
La Colombaia Terre delle Fornaci Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot not apparent
Pretty black label; the wine is deep cherry ruby with cherry rim fading to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, and bright, with lively brambly sour berry fruit with slight savory balsamic undertones. Invigorating. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity and fairly light tannins that have slight greenish undertones and flow into a bright brambly finish. Quite traditional, in a rather aggressive frame; it will work quite well with rich meat based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats including sausages and spare ribs, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style you will enjoy it, though if you prefer the smoother softer international style it won't work as well.
2 stars

Malechini
Malechini Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 04/08
Cherry ruby with rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly jammy red berry fruit supported by some bitter vegetal accents that bring artichokes to mind, and by moderate sea salt with hints of iodine. On the palate it's medium bodied, with tart red berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes or simple red meats, especially off the grill.
1 star

Torre a Cona
Torre a Cona Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 108
Lively ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with brambly red berry fruit that has greenish vegetal overtones, and is supported by sour berry fruit acidity. Bracing, and zesty. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour berry fruit that has some black currant overtones, and is supported by zesty sour fruit acidity and by moderately intense fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. A pleasant, rather scrappy food wine that will drink well with hearty thick winter soups, meat based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats (it will be nice at a cookout, where it will also work well with things like potato salad), and also with fried meats and vegetables. With respect to some other scrappy wines the fruit has a touch more roundness, which will make it more approachable for those who like smoother fruit driven wines. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will go quickly.
2 stars

Lanciola
Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot not apparent
Brilliant black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mentholated red berry fruit that has some greenish spicy accents and the heather of a Tuscan field early in the morning during the summer months. On the palate it's medium bodied, with decidedly tart sour cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are moderately intense and have greenish brambly bitterness, while leaving a trail of dust over the tongue as they flow into a bitter finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats (including tose at a cookout) or light stews; if you like this rather scrappy aggressive style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.
1 star

Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2003
Lot CFR03 (? Hard to read)
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some gum Arabic with hints of petroleum and cedar as well, and an underpinning of sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied with rather tart sour berry fruit that feels tired, supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and greenish cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish. I'm not sure what has happened here --perhaps large wood that's a little too old, though I'm not sure, but it comes across as trying too hard, and rather winded. Because of the tart bitterness that emerges in the finish it will drink well with fattier roasts or stews, and might be a nice bet with something like stewed venison or wild boar.
1 star

La Querce
La Querce La Torretta Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 20601
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry violet rim; it's darker than many of the other vini d'annata. The bouquet is intense, and quite fresh, with violets mingled with red berry fruit and underlying cedar that confers slight bitterness. The overall effect is airy and brings to mind a crisp fall day. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and gain depth from cedar laced bitterness that carries though into the finish, with is fruit driven. Pleasant, in a more international fruit driven style than some of the others, and is a wine that will drink well with light stews or roasts, and is also a wine one could drink by the glass with friends when the wine is to provide support rather than be the centerpiece of the occasion. I found it growing upon me, if you prefer fairly concentrated fruit driven wines you will enjoy it, and even if you are more traditional in tastes there are things to enjoy.
2 stars

San Michele a Torri
San Michele A Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 82421
Pale ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and refreshingly cool, with brambly berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some spice. Direct. On the palate it's equally direct, with tart sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and moderately intense slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish. A simple, direct wine that will do a fine job of accompanying grilled meats, ranging from ribs and sausages though chicken with the skin on, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. In the proper setting it will hit the spot, though you do have to like this frankly aggressive style. If you do, the bottle will go quickly.
1 star

San Michele a Torri San Giovanni 97 Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2005
Lot 39651
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though not quite as clean as I might have hoped; there's red berry fruit supported by spice and hints of underbrush and balsam, with slight savory barnyard tang as well. Just a touch rustic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly light, and flow into a sour berry fruit finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose and it's quite drinkable, but doesn't display as much depth as I'd expect from a Riserva. This said, it will work well with hearty pasta dishes, thick legume-based soups, and also with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Azienda Agraria Petreto
Via di Rosano, 196/a
50065 Pontassieve (FI)
Tel: 055/6519021

Petreto Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 2/08
Lively ruby with black reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by savory accents that at the outset bring Sichuan preserved vegetable to mind, and gradually resolve into savory spice. Interesting and not at all unpleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by delicate sour cherry acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish whose acidity carries at length. Pleasant in a light, fairly lively key, and though it's not a wine to drink by the glass far from the table it will work well with foods, ranging from hearty vegetable soups through simple grilled meats and light stews. In the proper setting it will go quite quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tenuta il Corno
Tenuta il Corno Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot CF06/0908
Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets and forest berry fruit supported by bitterness and chalk dust at first swish, which resolve into more intense forest berry fruit, in particular black currants, with more swishing, while savory vegetal underpinning emerges. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense forest berry fruit, a mixture of black currant and cherry supported by more tart cherry acidity than I might have expected, and by light tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. The bouquet is a little unusual, while the wine is fruit driven in a light fairly acidic key; if you like the combination it will drink well with fattier grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. In the proper setting it will go quickly.
1 star

Tenuta il Corno San Camillo Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2005
Lot CF1/00
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice. Tart, and invigorating. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich tart cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by clean slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a fairly light (for a Riserva) very traditional key, and will drink well with foods, though I wouldn't be tempted to drink it by the glass far from the table. What foods? Hearty roasts, stews, and also fried meats and vegetables, which are usually something I associate more with a vino d'annata than a Riserva. But it is pleasant in a scrappy traditional key, not attempting to be an Important Wine, and also has sufficient acidity to age nicely for 5-8 years, and I expect that it will become lacy with time. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Le Torri
Le Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 1091
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is eye opening in a rustic sort of way, with considerable animal tang -- wet stable straw with hints of lathered horse and leather -- and fairly intense underlying acidity. On the palate it's fairly full in a languid key, with ample cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish in which acidity emerges more than fruit, and carries at length. It's particular, and you have to like the style. If you do, it will drink well with succulent roasts or stews, and you will find that the bottle goes quickly.
1 star

Le Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2004
Lot 15063
Cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents, and by airy savory notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slightly greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean bitter berry fruit laced finish. Pleasant in a deft traditional key, though not quite as rich as some Riserve are; it will drink quite well with foods, ranging from hearty pasta dishes through succulent red meats, and if you like the style it will go quickly.
2 stars

Tenuta La Cipressaia
Via Romita,38
50025 Montespertoli (FI)
Tel & Fax: 0571/670868

Tenuta La Cipressaia Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 06/06
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and hints of gum Arabic; with more swishing the fruit reveals some black currants too. On the palate it's light bodied, with bright forest berry fruit that has fairly strong black currant accents supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth slight greenish tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. A light, zesty food wine that will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to accompany fried meats and vegetables. Deft, and will be perfect in the proper setting, though you do have to like the style. If you prefer softer smoother wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Tenuta La Cipressaia Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2007
Lot 06/07
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly red berry fruit supported by brisk greenish acidity. Direct, but what it has to say is interesting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright rather green sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are clean and have a tart savory burr that flows into a bright sour berry fruit finish with bitter underpinning. It's quite traditional, and scrappy too; if you like smoother softer wines it won't work for you, but if you enjoy the more traditional style it will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes or risotti, and also with succulent grilled meats along the lines of sausages, ribs, burgers (swimming with cheese), and chicken with the skin; it will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. A step into the past, and a nice one.
2 stars

Il Castelvecchio
Il Castelvecchio Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 08/150
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with berry fruit mingled with underbrush and savory notes coupled with something bitter that brings cobwebs to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry fruit and by fairly light tannins that flow into a fairly bitter berry fruit finish. Direct, and will drink nicely with foods, supporting from behind the scenes rather than demanding center stage.
1 star

Castelvecchio Vigna La Quercia Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2004
Lot 0780
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit that has some mentholated balsamic notes and is supported by a mixture of acidity and wet green leather. A bit unusual. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich, frankly generic berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a tart finish that simply fades. It's oddly disjointed, and feels like a vino d'annata that has been pumped up rather than something that always had the makings of a Riserva. Difficult to explain, but I think I'd have preferred it in a smaller key.
1 star

Fattorie Giannozzi
Villa Marcialla
Località La Ceppa
50020 Marcialla
Barberino Val d'Elsa (FI)
Tel: 055/8076602

Villa Marcialla Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot 100408
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with lathered horse and wet stable straw mingled with fairly tart acidity and distinctly vegetal overtones. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have feel separate from the fruit somehow, and have a greenish burr that flows into a fairly sour finish. The rusticity of the nose carries into the palate, and it's a wine that you should only consider if you like this style. If you do, it will work well with succulent grilled meats, including fattier fare such as sausages or chicken with its skin, and also has sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Villa Marcialla Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2003
Lot 240408
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit -- but not much -- and herbal notes mingled with cedar, and sea salt underpinning. On the palate it's thin, with moderately intense rather sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are again light, and flow into a fairly direct sour berry fruit finish. I'd have expected greater depth and concentration from a Riserva, because the region is quite capable of providing it.
1 star

Fattoria di Fiano
Fattoria di Fiano Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot 4-08
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim fading to white. The bouquet is fresh, and rather tart, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and hints of berry fruit jam. Nice balance, and deft in a fairly scrappy key. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly vegetal cast to them, and flow into a clean fresh vegetal fruit finish. Pleasant in a young, light, scrappy sort of way, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the traditional style you will enjoy it, and the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria di Fiano Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2006
Lot 6-08
Impenetrable slightly violet pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and a pleasant underlay of spice with hints of cedar. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that have a clean bitter underpinning and flow into a bitter fruit laced finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and though it's not quite substantial enough for a fatty roast like leg of lamb, it will work quite well with hearty grilled meats (a porterhouse comes to mind), and will also be nice with stews, including flavorful meats such as boar or venison. Worth seeking out, and it will age nicely for at least another 5 years.
86-8

Fattoria di Bagnolo
Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot 071
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by some airy floral accents and by clean spice mingled with hints of truffle. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate slightly bitter acidity, and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean bitter fruit laced finish. It's fairly direct, and I'd have preferred better definition than it displays -- there isn't quite as much acidity as I had hoped for, and as a result it has a lax feeling to it. This said, it will work well with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews.
1 star

Fatoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2007
Lot 081
Deep slightly violet pigeon blood ruby with lively ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fresh, with forest berry fruit, a mixture of cherry and also quite a bit of black currant, that gains definition from hints of berry fruit acidity, slight floral accents, and underlying berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich forest berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and fairly light tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's deft in a smoother softer fruit driven key, and if you like this style (as opposed to the more aggressive traditional style) it will work quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and you may also want to drink it by the glass with friends.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2005
Lot 072
Deep slightly cloudy pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by warm cedar with hints of graphite that nicely balances the fruit; it's harmonious but not as complex as I might have hoped. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a smooth cedar overlay and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's direct, in a way that's simpler than I'd have expected from a Riserva, and is also lacking in intensity and concentration of fruit. A pity, because the region can do much more.
1 star

Note: It feels as if there has been a change of course between 2006 and 2007.

Castello di Poppiano
Castello di Poppiano Il Cortile Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot illegible
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe fairly generic red fruit mingled with gum Arabic and hints of dried mushrooms. It's muted, but in an odd way that isn't really youthful bottle shock; the second bottle is the same and I wonder if it's a corkage issue. On the palate it feels rather dilute, with generic red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity coupled with savory bitterness, and by tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a savory finish. I'd have liked greater depth, brightness and concentration.
1 star

Castello di Poppiano Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2005
Lot 01 08 (? Hard to read)
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by cedar and savory spice and underlying berry fruit jam. Nice balance, and youthfully harmonious. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by cedar laced tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue, and flow into a distinctly bitter tannic finish. It's not quite as smooth as it might be in the finish -- the tannic splinteriness is quite marked -- but will drink well with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts, along the lines of medium rare roast beef cut thick, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

A note on the order: I tasted the wines blind (labels covered), starting with the Vini D'Annata, followed by the Riserve. The wineries are listed in the order that I tasted their Vini D'Annata.

Spumantia 2008: Fine Bubbly!

This year I returned to Spumantia, Viareggio's presentation of sparkling wines: It's an interesting event, because rather than focus on a particular kind of wine, there was everything from light, spritzy Prosecco through much more serious, well aged Franciacorta and Champagne. I had a great time, and here is a selection of wines, some of which will be perfect for Valentine's Day or other romantic occasions, while others will be nice with friends at table or while talking far from food.

The wineries are listed in the order tasted. Auguri!

Villa
Villa Franciacorta Rosé Demi-Sec
Pale onion-skin salmon with fine perlage, and a vinous bouquet with some red berry fruit and underlying wet breadcrumbs mingled with hints of sage and herbs. Nice depth. On the palate it's rich, full, and creamy, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some pungency, while the sweetness adds fullness, and the sparkle a pleasant creamy feel. It will be quite nice as an aperitif or far from the table, though I found it a little soft for most foods. Tortelli di zucca, squash tortelli, might be an idea.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Brut Millesimato 2004
Pale greenish gold with fine persistent perlage. Elegant bouquet with rich white berry fruit -- sour plums -- mingled with spice and hints of savory gunflint -- there's something bracing about it. On the palate it's bright, with clean crisp white berry fruit supported by smooth rich minerality and very fine sparkle that confers a slightly creamy feel to it and flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Very nice, combining pleasing finesse and considerable elegance, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods, either fish or light meats.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut Millesimato 2003
Pale brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, and more mature than the 04 Brut Millesimato, and also riper, with breadcrumbs and heather mingled with some gunflint. Great finesse in a slightly more opulent key, and this is the 03 vintage at work. On the palate it's full, soft, and ample, with clean minerality laced with butterscotch and creamy sparkle that flow into a clean rather bitter mineral finish. It's richer and softer than some vintages, and is therefore a bit more extreme -- one will like it or not. But if one does, it is very, very nice.
91

Villa Franciacorta Diamant pas Dosé Millesimato 2002
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with gunflint minerality and bitterness laced with breadcrumbs and underlying sea salt. Quite a bit going on, in a deft way. On the palate it's full, rich, and pleasingly savory with elegant minerality supported by peppery notes from the sparkle as well as savory acidity that flows into a clean bright finish with lasting gunflint bitterness. 2002 was a cooler, wetter year, and this translates into greater acidity in the wine, which becomes (at least for me) more interesting. Quite nice, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with white meats.
90

Villa Franciacorta Satèn Millesimato 2004
Pale brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some breadcrumbs, and has a creamy minty feel to it. On the palate it's full, and soft -- this is a hallmark of the Satèn style -- with pleasing minerality supported by smooth sparkle whose softness confers a creamy feel, and flows into a clean fresh slightly acidic finish buoyed by the sparkle. It's quite approachable and frankly seductive, and will be an excellent wine with which to introduce those unfamiliar with dry sparkling wines to the genre. It's also quite versatile, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods. Satèn has a reputation of being easier than other Franciacorta wines, but this one has facets a sparkling wine lover will enjoy. Worth seeking out.
88-91

Casale Falchini
Falchini Metodo Classico Millesimato Brut 2005
This is made from the grapes used to make Vernaccia di San Gimignano (check), and had just been disgorged at the time of tasting. Elegant brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is also elegant, with greenish vegetal accents laced with bread crumbs and some sea salt. Deft, with a fair amount to say. On the palate it's full, with a slightly more aggressive sparkle, and bright slightly greenish accents supported by bitter minerality that brings cider to mind somehow, and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods, though to be quite honest it's not as good as past vintages have been -- 2005 was difficult in Tuscany, and it shows here.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Borgo Antico
Azienda Agricola Borgo Antico Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Gran Cuvée 2007 DOC
Pale greenish white with fine perlage. Classic nose with rich, freshly cut and very crisp Granny Smith green apple aromas mingled with hints of mint that add complexity. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rich, with clean bracing green apple fruit supported by bright green apple acidity and clean peppery accents from the sparkle that flow into a clean deft apple finish. It's squeaky clean, and a great delight, capturing the concept of Prosecco perfectly. Defects? That it will go quickly.
88-91

Torre Dei Vescovi
This is a cooperative, with 1600 members who supply grapes.

Torre dei Vescovi Lessini Durello Brut
Non-vintage, poured from a Magnum. It's pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage, and has a moderately intense bouquet with minerality and some sparkle in the nose, and hints of bread crumbs -- it gives an impression of dryness. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant yellow plum fruit supported by savory minerality and some acidity, while the sparkle adds peppery accents. It has a pleasing, wide-eyed direct freshness to it, and is one of those wines that makes a nice impression and drinks well. Nice as an aperitif, with creamy soups, or simple fish.
2 stars

Terre Dei Vescove Le Macine Metodo Classico
Non-vintage; this is a blend of Pinot Nero and Chardonnay, and spends 36 months on the lees. It's greenish brassy gold with fine perlage, and has a powerful nose with abundant breadcrumbs mingled with gunflint minerality and spice. On the palate it's rich, and full, with bright clean mineral accents and white fruit, while the sparkle confers a creamy texture to the wine, which flows into a clean savory finish. Quite approachable, and though it doesn't have the deftness of a top Franciacorta it is pleasant to drink, and will work very well as an aperitif or with delicately flavored foods.
2 stars

Guido Berlucchi
Their wines are all metodo Classico.

Guido Berlucchi Cellarius Brut 2005
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet combines breadcrumbs and some gunflint, and displays nice depth. On the palate it's direct, with lively slightly savory sour white plum fruit supported by savory accents and acidity, while the sparkle adds peppery notes. Quite direct, up front even.
2 stars

Guido Berlucchi Cellarius Rosé 2004
Pale rose with fine white perlage, and a clean bouquet in which breadcrumbs mingle with some red berry fruit and are supported by hints of bramble. On the palate it's full, and slightly bitter, with sparkle contributing considerably to the sensation of fullness, and moderate acidity.
1 star

Guido Berlucchi Cuvée Imperiale Max Rosé
Non-vintage
Pale salmon with fine, intense perlage. The bouquet is intense, with savory accents and underlying minerality and some red berry fruit, in particular blackberries, with mentholated overtones. On the palate it's full, and rich, with moderately intense mineral-laced red berry fruit supported by clean sparkle and deft raspberry acidity that flows into a long clean raspberry finish. Much more interesting than the Cellarius, and provides food for thought; it will be nice as an aperitif or with fish or light meat dishes, and also has the wherewithal to work well with moderately spiced Chinese dishes. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Guido Berlucchi Cuvée Storica Franciacorta Brut
Non-vintage; Berlucchi is large enough that they buy grapes for most of their wines outside the Franciacorta zone. This is made from grapes within the zone, however, and is therefore a Franciacorta. It's brassy yellow with tawny reflections and fine perlage, and has an intense bouquet with breadcrumbs and greenish minerality laced with some sage. Inviting. On the palate it's fairly full, in a direct sort of way, with clean bright minerality supported by creamy accents from the sparkle and savory bitterness that provides depth. Pleasant in a direct way -- it's not as complex as some -- and will drink well as an aperitif or at table, going quickly.
2 stars

Carpené Malvolti
Carpené Malvolti Prosecco di Conegliano DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart apple -- delicious more than green -- supported by some airy foam and hints of almond. On the palate it's clean, and fresh, with bright fairly sweet apple fruit supported by bright apple acidity that flows into a clean slightly bitter apple finish. Direct and will drink well as an aperitif or with risotti, vegetable or fish based pasta dishes, and light fish or meats.
2 stars

Carpené Malvolti Rosé Cuvée Brut 2007
This is a blend of Pinot Nero and Raboso, racked off the skins after brief maceration. It's pale salmon pink with lively salmon reflections and white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and some mineral acidity. The palate is more interesting, with richer red berry fruit supported by crisp acidity and sparkle that adds fullness, and flows into a fairly long mineral finish. It will drink nicely as an aperitif, with cold cuts, egg or mild cheese based antipasti, and will also be pleasant with creamy dishes.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Kerner 2007
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense perlage. Elegant bouquet with pleasing floral accents mingled with citrus and honeysuckle with underlying minerality. Elegant, and quite inviting. On the palate full and rich with clean honeydew melon fruit that gains direction from deft citric acidity and slight bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory finish. Quite nice, with excellent depth and richness, an wine that will work very well as an aperitif or with foods. Drawbacks? The bottle will likely go too fast.
90-91

Carpenè Malvolti Voignier 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with gunflint minerality laced with some citric notes and savory accents On the palate it's rich and bracing, with lively citric fruit supported by clean citric acidity and nice sparkle that flow into a clean tart finish with peppery accents from sparkle. It's quick to write, but quite harmonious, in a sassier key than the Kerner: If the former is a beautiful woman in an evening gown, here she's dressed to go hiking eager to set out.
88-90

La Scolca
Soldati la Scolca Brut 2004
This is a Cortese, the grape that yields Gavi. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. Rich bouquet with breadcrumbs and greenish accents laced with minerality and some smoke. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's rich, with bright minerality supported by sparkle that confers a creamy feel, and by bright acidity that keeps the wine very much on its toes, and flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well as an aperitif or with creamy dishes, ranging from risotto through fish and white meats. It has a lot to say, and the conversation is interesting.
90-91

Le Bertole
Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Brut DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with slight greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some green apple mingled with tartness. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderate crisp delicious apple fruit and some mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish. It's direct, and approachable, but doesn't display great depth. I found it a bit understated.
1 star

Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Cartizze Dry DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green apple fruit supported by moderate citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively crisp apple fruit that gins from the sparkle, which contributes peppery accents, and flows into a clean fresh finish. I found it growing upon me.
88-90

Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Extra Dry DOC 2007
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections; fine white perlage. The bouquet is crisp, with mineral acidity and hints of tart apple laced with some Granny Smith tartness. Nice, and fresh. On the palate it's full, with rich tart apple fruit supported by both sparkle and clean bright acidity that flows into a clean fresh finish. There's not as much depth as there was in the Cartizze, but it will be nice as an aperitif, and also fairly versatile at table.
2 stars

Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Dry Supreme DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with green highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart apples -- some green apple too -- mingled with apple acidity and hints of minerality. Nice depth and quite pleasant. On the palate it's fairly rich, with apple fruit supported by clean sparkle and by bright acidity, which flows into a clean graceful apple finish. And that's it; it's a graceful wine that will drink well as an aperitif or with antipasti, in particular cold cuts and mild cheeses, and will also work well with creamy dishes, for example risotti. It's not quite as tight as the Cartizze, but nice.
88

Casalini Andrea
Casalini Andrea Prosecco Valdobbiadene Brut DOC
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. Rich bouquet with clean Granny Smith apples supported by fresh tart apple acidity; it's quite inviting. On the palate it's fresh and zesty, with apple fruit backed up by mineral acidity and supported by the sparkle, which flows into a clean fresh bitter mineral finish. Quite approachable, and though a touch too bitter to be drunk by itself it will work very well with cold cuts or cheeses, and also be nice with creamy pasta dishes or risotti. Expect it to go quickly.
88

Casalini Andrea Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The nose is fairly rich, with clean fresh apple fruit and some minerality. Not as rich as the Brut, but inviting nonetheless. On the palate it's full, and fresh, with fairly intense apple fruit supported by clean crisp apple sparkle that flows into a crisp finish. Pleasant, and will drink well as an apaeritif or with creamy dishes.
2 stars

Casalini Andrea Prosecco Valdobbiadene Millesimato Dry 2006
Pale brassy white with greenish accents and brassy reflection; fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately rich, with apples laced with gunflint and slight hints of almonds; though it's not really young it has remained fresh. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant apple fruit supported by soft sparkle and moderate acidity. It's quite approachable, and ideal for those who find really dry sparkling wines too dry; it will work well as an aperitif or with delicate meats or fish. Worth seeking out if you like this more approachable style.
88-90

Astoria Vini
Astoria Vini Cuvée Fashion Victim Lounge Vino Spumante 2007
This is 90% Prosecco and 10% Chardonnay, and is pale brassy white with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with strong floral accents mingled with some tartness and underlying minerality - the Chardonnay makes itself felt, while the apples of Prosecco are masked. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense apple fruit supported by sparkle and moderate mineral acidity that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's quite approachable but fails to really excite - the combination of varietals muddies the waters, as it were, and I found the Chardonnay to be getting in the way.
1 star

Astoria Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Cartizze 2007
Pale greenish brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green apples mingled with dried delicious apples and moderate acidity. Fresh and inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively crisp apple fruit supported by clean bitter minerality that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant, and will frink very well as an aperitif or with crustaceans, also creamy risotti or pasta dishes.
88

Fratelli Berlucchi
These are the cousins of the late Guido Berlucchi; their vineyards are all within the Franciacorta production area.

Fratelli Berlucchi Brut 25 Franciacorta
This is an intentionally young Franciacorta; the 25 is a reference to the 25 months that must pass between harvest and release per the Franciacorta Disciplinare. The wine is pale greenish gold with lively greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich with gunflint minerality mingled with herbal accents and some toasted breadcrumbs. Quite a bit going on and fresh too. On the palate it's again fresh, with clean slightly mineral fruit laced with savory accents and supported by a very smooth sparkle whose fineness makes for a creamy feeling, and it flows into a clean savory finish. Quite pleasant and eminently approachable, in the manner of a Satèn but with greater depth. I found it growing upon me.
88-90 **

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Pas Dosé 2004
Lively greenish gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with powerful gunflint supported by wet breadcrumbs and herbal accents, as well as menthol and spice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with clean minerality supported by savory accents and deft mineral acidity, while the sparkle adds depth. Pleasant, in a slightly more solid key than some Franciacorta, and will drink well with creamy dishes, ranging from risotto through meats or fish, but is a little too charged to work well as an aperitif.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2004
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with clean minerality laced with herbal accents, some sage, and almonds and breadcrumbs. Defter than the Pas Dosé. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant yellow fruit supported by savory accents and wet crumb bitterness that lead into a clean sacory finish that gains depth from the sparkle. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with foods. Worth seeking out.
90

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Rosé 2004
This is 70% Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, and 30% Pinot Nero; it's pale salmon with lively salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bi si fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by pleasant herbal accents, and also hints of sweetness and wet breadcrumbs. On the palate it's full, with the fullness from both sparkle and red berry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity that flows into a clean raspberry-lemon finish. It will be pleasant as an aperitif, and also nice at the table.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Satèn 2004
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with gunflint minerality laced with some acidity and breadcrumbs, as well as spice and some savory accents. Pleasant and inviting. On the palate it's full, and soft, as Satèn is want to be, with clean rich white berry fruit supported by slightly lemony acidity and smooth sparkle, whose softness confers a creamy texture, and flows into a clean fresh savory finish. Quite approachable, and will drink well as an aperitif or at the table. One usually doesn't talk about wanting a second bottle of Franciacorta, but in this case one might worth seeking out.
88

La Colombara
La Colombara Prosecco Valdobbiadene Extra Dry
Pale papery white with fine perlage. Bright bouquet with fairly rich apple accents supported by tart apple acidity; nice crispness too. On the palate it's fresh, and light, with lively green apple fruit supported by crisp apple acidity and flows into a clean crisp finish. Quite approachable in a clean, direct key, and will be pleasant either as an aperitif or at table, especially with creamy dishes such as risotto.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Andreola Orsola
Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with crisp green apple mingled with some Delicious apple. On the palate it's light, with crisp green apple supported by sparkle and deft apple acidity. Quite drinkable and very approachable too.
2 stars

Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Vigneto Dirupo Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with moderately intense apple fruit supported by sparkle and airy sweetness, with some herbal accents as well. Deft. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly intense apple fruit supported by smooth soft sparkle. Quite deft, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with friends far from the table, say on a patio under the stars.
88

Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Millesimato Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is bright, and fresh, with rich apple fruit supported by deft apple acidity and dappled shade. Refreshing and inviting. On the palate it's full, with rich apple fruit supported by clean tart green apple acidity and peppery accents from sparkle that continue at length, fading into a long apple laced finish. Quite nice and very approachable; it will drink very well as an aperitif and will also be nice with foods, especially in a romantic setting. Worth seeking out.
90

Andreola Orsola Dirupo Valdobbiadene Prosecco Brut 2007
Pale brassy green with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and delicate, with apple fruit supported by sparkle and faint sweetness that adds depth. On the palate it's full, and a touch drier than I had expected, with crisp apple acidity more than apple fruit flowing into a clean fresh finish. Pleasant and approachable, and will be a nice aperitif or accompaniment to a meal.
2 stars

Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOC Superiore di Cartizze Spumante Dry 2007
Pale greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white perlage. Elegant bouquet with deft green apple fruit supported by tart apple acidity, and though it is quick to write there's considerable depth and a lot going on. On the palate it's rich and elegant, with powerful crisp green apple fruit that displays some hints of Delicious apple and is supported by tart apple acidity that flows into a clean tart apple laced finish with spicy notes from sparkle. Great depth and elegance, and a pleasure to drink.
92

Santa Margherita
Santa Margherita Kettmeir Brut Metodo Classico
Non-vintage; it's 50% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Nero
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense with gunflint minerality and savory accents mingled with bitterness and wet breadcrumbs. On the palate it's fairly rich in a savory key with greenish accents supported by sparkle that flows into a lasting bitter finish. It's a bit heavy on its paces, and I would have liked greater deftness.
1 star

Santa Margherita Kettmeir Gran Cuvée Alto Adige Brut
Non-vintage; this is a Pinot Bianco
Pale brassy green with brassy reflections. Deft bouquet, with minerality and some white pear mingled with slight breadcrumbs and savory accents. Nice depth. On the palate it's rich, with pleasing minerality supported by mineral acidity and sparkle that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Deft, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with delicately flavored fish or white meats. I found it growing upon me, and though it gives an initial impression of directness, complexities do emerge.
2 stars

Santa Margherita Kettmeir Metodo Classico Rosé
Non-vintage; this is a Pinot Nero
Pale rose pink with pink reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dry red currant and raspberry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with clean bracingly dry red berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and sparkle that adds a peppery tang to the fruit and the finish. It will drink nicely as an aperitif, and also with cold cuts and cheese or egg-based antipasti, as well as with creamy first course dishes, along the lines of risotto.
88

Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with slightly stewed apple fruit supported by acidity and gunflint. Not as clean as some. On the palate there's moderate apple and white fruit supported by moderate acidity that flows into a clean finish. I would have expected more from a Cartizze than I found.
1 star

Francesco Scanavino
Francesco Scanavino Diamant Plus Metodo Classico Millesimato 2004
They are in Langa (Piemonte), but buy Pinot Nero grapes from the Oltrepó Pavese, add 20% home-grown Chardonnay, and keep the wine for 40 months on the lees. It's pale brassy white with greenish reflections, and fine perlage. Pleasant bouquet with clean minerality and slight citrus accents. Deft, and gunflint also emerges with time. On the palate it's fresh, with clean minerality and sour lemon fruit supported by clean savory accents and deft minerality, with considerable fullness from fruit and acidity too. Pleasant, and I rather enjoyed it.
2 stars

Agricola Caseo
Gioia Caseo Spumante Brut Metodo Classico
Non-vintage; it's 70-30 Chardonnay-Pinot Nero, and spends 24 monts on the lees. Deep gold with golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with breadcrumbs and butterscotch mingled with bitterness and gunflint. On the palate full and creamy, with ample butterscotch and white berry fruit supported by acidity, sparkle, and gunflint bitterness that flows into a clean fairly savory finish. It's pleasant, and will also be quite versatile at table.
2 stars

Agricola Caseo Rosé Caseo Brut
This is a Pinot Nero that macerates for 8 hours on the skins, and spends 36 months on the lees. Classic onionskin with apricot reflections and fine perlage. Rich bouquet, with clean dry red berry fruit supported by bramble and acidity, with underlying gunflint. Nice balance, and it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with clean minerality and some red berry fruit supported by peppery accents from the sparkle, and flows into a fairly long finish. It's not quite as rich on the palate as I would have expected from the nose, but is pleasant, and the gunflint bitterness that emerges in the finish is nice. It will be a pleasant aperitif, and drink nicely at table too.
2 stars

Agricola Caseo Caseo Blanc de Blancs
This is a Chardonnay, and is non-vintage.
Brilliant greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is quite powerful, with intense butterscotch mingled with breadcrumbs, almonds, and vegetal accents. On steroids. On the palate it's equally charged, with ample rich butterscotch supported by moderate acidity -- though the vintage isn't declared, the grapes are 2003, and were very ripe -- and by clean sparkle that flows into a clean butterscotch finish that's fairly long. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you do have to like barrel fermented sparkling wines. If you don't you will not like it.
2 stars

Caseo Grand Cuvée Pas Dosé Oltrepó Pavese 2001
This is 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Chardonnay, barrel fermented, and spends 60 months on the lees. It's golden with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch mingled with white pear and hardwood ash, while there is also underlying gunflint. Mature, and elegant in its maturity. On the palate it's ample and full, with powerful almond-laced minerality supported by deft acidity and clean sparkle that flow into a clean savory almost balsamic finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with creamy dishes, though I found it to be a bit too charged to serve as an aperitif.
88-90

Bellussi
Bellussi Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense with apple fruit mingled with some sugary accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright apple fruit supported by clean white berry fruit that gains depth from apple acidity and flows into a clean sour apple finish. Pleasant and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with friends on a patio. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Bellussi Belcanto Di Bellussi Cuvée Brut Vino Spumante
This is non-vintage; it's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with some apple fruit supported by sugary accents and some honeydew melon; the combination sounds odd but works well. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate white berry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity. It's not as bright nor as fresh as Prosecco, and though pleasant seems hindered, somehow.
1 star

Palazzetto Ardi's Rosso: A Fine Organic Wine

About 15 years ago I visited an Organic Fair in Piemonte, where about half the booths featured wines. And didn't find one worth drinking: They all stank, and when I said so, the winemakers looked at me with horror in their eyes, and said "But they're Organic!" This quality was, as far as I could tell, the only reason to buy them.

Times have changed considerably, and now the only way you'll be able to tell many wines are organic is to read the fine print on the label. Or to visit the winemaker; Carlo Sitizia contacted me a couple of years ago and asked me if I could stop by Palazzetto Ardi, the place he and Michela Cairolaro had taken over.

I said yes, and after Vinitaly drove towards Vicenza, and then ventured out into the flatlands south of Gambellara following his directions. The road was about as wide as my desk, with a drainage ditch alongside, and I confess to wondering what I was getting into.

All doubts vanished when I turned onto their drive: Palazzetto Ardi is a beautifully restored 17th century farm complex with livestock, fields (Michela was picking asparagus when I arrived), and a small but impeccably kept vineyard. Which produces excellent wine:

Entusiasmo di Palazzetto Ardi Vicenza Doc Rosso 2006
Lot 1/2007
This is a Cabernet; it's delicate ruby with brilliant reflections, and has an elegant bouquet with forest berry fruit supported by cranberry acidity and delicate vegetal accents. Deft, and lithe. On the palate it's medium bodied, with brambley cranberry-forest berry fruit supported by clean scrappy tannins and sour berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fruit-laced finish with cranberry underpinning. Quite nice, in a scrappy tomboyish key, and it was a perfect match for the creamy radicchio risotto my Mother-in-Law was serving as a first ocurse, while it also had the body necessary to work well with the roast lamb that followed it.
Worth seeking out, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

A little more about Palazetto Ardi: Michela and Carlo both did other things before marrying and deciding to withdraw from the grind of city life. And like many people who have decided to follow this path, they have done so with considerable enthusiasm; Michela is an accomplished chef, and in addition to offering hospitality they hold classes for local school children, organize cycle tours, and do much more.

In short, if you're planning to visit the Veneto and are willing to drive or take the train (there's a station nearby) you should consider staying at Palazzetto Ardi.