Chianti Rufina: The Appellation, A Vertical, And The Vintage

Of the various "lesser" Chianti appellations that came into being in the 1930s, when legislators provided legal recognition for what was a common practice among wine merchants -- adding the word Chianti to any wine from Central Tuscany to associate it with the already renowned wines from the Chianti Classico region and therefore increase its marketability -- Chianti Rufina is the one that probably least needed the assistance, and in an odd way has been most hindered by the association.

Because the excellence of the Rufina area has long been known: It was one of the four Tuscan wine-making regions singled out by Grand Duke Cosimo III De'Medici in 1716 (he called it Pomino, which is now a distinct appellation; the other three are what is now Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and an area of the Upper Valdarno towards Arezzo whose wine-making significance has since paled), and as such can be considered one of the oldest appellations in the world.

And also because, of the various "lesser Chiantis" it is the most distinct from Chianti Classico: unlike the others, Chianti Rufina shares no borders with Chianti Classico, and Chianti Rufina is also geographically quite distinct from Chianti Classico. The region is topographically wilder, with the vineyards planted along the flanks of several valleys that extend into the Apennines. The cool night breezes from the surrounding mountains guarantee significant day-night temperature excursions that in turn favor the accumulation of aroma-producing compounds in the grapes, while the greater altitude of the vineyards results in cooler temperatures that in turn result in higher acidities.

All this leads to Chianti Rufina's wines tending to have distinctive, very well developed bouquets. And it leads to their being long-lived; a few years ago Federico Giuntini of Selvapiana organized a vertical that began with a 1958 riserva:

Extremely dark ruby with hints of brown on the rim; one wouldn't guess it's more than 40 years old. The bouquet is equally interesting, and quite fresh though obviously belonging to an elderly wine, with delicate Sichuan preserved vegetable, mingled with berry fruit and greenish spice; it's extremely harmonious. On the palate it's quite fresh, with berry fruit supported by smooth sweet satiny tannins that lead into a clean cherry fruit and acidity-laced finish; it's obviously not young but remains quite fresh, and is again a testament to what Rufina can age to. Extraordinary!

Granted, Selvapiana's Riserva was made from old vineyards, which were planted to much higher densities than the "Fiat vineyards" planted with mechanization in mind during the 1960s, but it clearly shows both why Cosimo III singled out the Rufina zone, and why the area's wines are improving now that the emphasis has shifted back to quality, rather than ease of cultivation. Put simply, Chianti Rufina has potential.

And, I think, it should change its name to plain Rufina. The word Chianti may provide a much-needed crutch to some of the other non-Chianti Classico appellations in central Tuscany, but Chianti Rufina has character and quality to spare, and is perfectly capable of going it alone. I asked several producers about this in the course of the vintage presentation this fall, and was told that though some would like to drop the word Chianti, the major players in the area think that it helps their sales. To these major players I would say, Rufina has a much longer wine-making history than either Bolgheri or Scansano, but they -- as distinct from Chianti/Chainti Classico -- have garnered much more attention from the wine press and consumers in the recent past than Chianti Rufina, which is seen as just another Chianti, rather than the distinct gem it is. If Rufina stands on its own two feet, it will go places it will never reach with a crutch.

And Now, To The Wines
The appellation is fairly small -- there are 23 producers in all -- and as a way of introducing it to those not familiar with it, the Consorzio decided to begin this year's vintage presentation with a retrospective that again clearly revealed Rufina's capacity to age. The tasting was commented by the producers, and began with:

Fattoria Lavacchio Chianti Rufina Riserva 1999
This is 85% Sangiovese, with 10% Merlot and 5% Colorino
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and the barest hints of almandine in the nail. One wouldn't guess it's going on 10 years old. The bouquet is rich, with brambly black cherry fruit supported by clean fresh acidity and some hints of cut tobacco with an underpinning of green leather, slight balsamic notes, and hints of gunpowder. Quite elegant, in a vibrant, zesty key that brings to mind a trim, well muscled athlete. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by clean very bitter tannins with a distinct burr that have an underpinning of wet leaves and graphite shavings, and provide a pleasant counterpoint to the acidity and the fruit, while the finish is long with bitter accents and a pleasing austerity that balances the fruit. Quite impressive, and still quite young; while it will work well succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts. Considerable backbone, and the vibrancy of the tannins is likened to a nervous horse -- said admiringly - by a fellow taster. I would expect it to age well for at least another 10-15 years.
90-91

Fattoria di Grignano Poggio Gualtieri Chianti Rufina Riserva 1998
The Poggio Gualtieri vineyard is more than 50 years old, and is planted to a proprietary clone of Sangiovese, though there is also 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine is deep slightly cloudy cherry ruby with almandine rim that pales to orange at the nail. The bouquet is much more mature than the Lavacchio 99's, with green leather and underbrush supported by savory balsamic accents and sea salt mingled with cut leaf tobacco, and with time candied fruit. And hints of dried porcini and India ink. Moderate fruit -- stewed red berry -- though more tertiary aromas predominate. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich savory prune-cherry fruit that is supported by clean very smooth slightly balsamic tannins that gain direction from warm balsamic acidity and dusty cedar that carry into a dusty prune and brandied plum finish. Quite interesting, and shows how a somewhat less favorable vintage can evolve; it is mature and I would likely drink it now rather than age it for much longer.
2 stars

Villa Bossi Chianti Rufina Riserva 1997
The Gondi family has owned this estate since 1300. It covers more than 200 hectares, but only a small area is planted to vine -- what they consider to be the best -- specifically Sangiovese and Colorino. Vinification is quite traditional, with cement fermentation tanks followed by large wood, barriques and bottle. The wine is deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is somewhat muted on the outset, though swishing brings all sorts of things as it opens, starting with bitter iodine accents mingled with quinine and coffee grounds, and red berry fruit -- chewy cherry and forest berry fruit -- supported by some cut leather and savory accents. On the palate it's austere on the outset, with rich slightly sour red berry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are silky, with a bitter dusty overlay that is a bit dry, and flows into a clean fairly bitter savory finish. Quite fresh, and still very much a child, though in a much more austere key than some of the other wines are.
88-90

Marchesi De' Frescobaldi Nipozzano Montesodi Chianti Rufina 1991
Almandine with slightly brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is mature, with cut leaf tobacco and savory accents mingled with some leather and a fair amount of menthol as well, with underlying savory accents, and a fellow taster finds prune, dried mushroom, and chestnut. It's clearly not from a great vintage -- 1990 blazed a path difficult to follow -- but does have a pleasing bit to say. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter prune fruit supported by alcohol and slightly balsamic acidity, and tart bitter dusty accents as well. Pleasant, and though it is aged it clearly reveals the potential of the appellation, because there aren't many Tuscan 1991s that can do as well as this one has.
1 star

Villa Bossi Chianti Rufina Riserva 1990
This was one of the vintages of the century, and the 1990 Selvapiana was rated one of the top 10 wines in the world by Wine Spectator, a rating that helped to put Rufina on the international enological map. Villa Bossi's Riserva is deep ruby with an almandine cast, and almandine on the rim. The bouquet is closed on the outset, though swishing brings up dried roses -- not quite canina, and a fellow taster mentions roses in spirits -- mingled with savory accents and dried leather, and as it opens further carob and rhubarb mingled with savory accents and considerable India ink and iodine. It's quite austere, but has a lot to say, and is like a person who is interesting but speaks quietly. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful very young cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slightly splintery feel to them, and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Beautiful wine, tremendously eye-opening in an austere - the Italian word might be spigoloso, which means angular/spiky in this context - key, and it provides eloquent confirmation of the Rufina appellation's potential.
92

Fattoria di Selvapiana Chianti Rufina Riserva 1985
At the time this was made, the Disciplinare said that there should be white grapes in the wine. However, Francesco Giuntini wanted to make the best possible, so he decided to omit the white grapes (even though he was required to plant 4 hectares) and make his Riserva with just reds. This was fermented in cement, and aged in old chestnut barrels. Deep slightly dusky almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling almost to onion skin on the nail. The bouquet is very nice, with rich savory leaf tobacco mingled with balsamic accents and savory spice, dried mushrooms, prune jam, and licorice root, and though this is quick to write, there are all sorts of facets, and it invites sniff after sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean cool -- there's something of dappled shade to it -- slightly sour cherry fruit that gains depth from deft berry fruit acidity and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean, elegant tobacco-laced balsamic finish. It is even more impressive than the Villa Bossi 1990, and all the more so because the wine making technique at the time was much more empirical than it is today. A beautiful wine that's a delight to sip.
95

Travignoli Chianti Rufina Riserva 1983
This estate originally belonged to the Church, and is first mentioned in 1074, if I heard right. The Busi family bought it in the 1800s, and sold the wine by the demijohn until that no longer worked -- 1982 was the first year they bottled and sold. This vintage is almandine with pale almandine rim, and has a slight brownish cast to it. This is the last year that they followed the rules set by the Disciplinare and put Trebbiano into the wine; the bouquet is pleasant, in a decidedly mature key, with saddle leather and leaf tobacco mingled with dried mushrooms and some (top quality) beef jerky, with the sweetness it can display, and spice. Pleasant, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's richer than I might have expected, with ample rather languid, fairly sweet prune-berry fruit that has some sweet oatmeal overtones, and gains direction from languid balsamic acidity and from tannins that have an unusual smoky cast to them that brings to mind tarry Lapsang Souchong tea, and flow into a clean warm finish with some balsamic accents mingled with spice -- cinnamon, in particular and cedar. Very interesting, and if you like older wines you will enjoy it very much, though I would say to sip it far from the table rather than with foods. In short, a bottle to break out with like-minded wine-loving friends.
88-90

Spalletti Poggio Reale Chianti Rufina Riserva Banda Rossa 1981
This is from Colognole, and is one of the higher parts of the appellation; the Banda Rossa was only made in the best vintages, and with only red grapes. It's brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed on the outset, revealing leather and pencil shavings (with some gum Arabic -- it brings to mind a closed chest or armoire) mingled with wet leather and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth, some toasted hazelnuts, spice, and savory notes. Impressive, and as it opens it becomes steadily more expressive. On the palate it's very much alive, with fairly rich cherry prune fruit that gains depth from sotto spirito accents and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a core of velvet to them -- it was aged in chestnut and oak casks -- and gains direction from lively acidity that flows into a clean fairly tart finish. One would never guess it's well into adulthood, and it is one of those wines one can converse with. Beautiful, and though it may not be still climbing it's also far from beginning the decline that comes to wine with time, and evolves beautifully in the glass. I found myself wondering if wines made with more modern technique will acquit themselves as well over time..
88-90

There we have it, a most impressive series, and it's worth noting that these wines are pouring much better than many better-known Supertuscans of like age.

The actual vintage presentation was the next day, and took place in the seat of the Consorzio del Chianti Rufina. It was nicely organized, but (alas) not blind I began with the 2007 Vini D'Annata, and then tasted the Riserve. The wineries are presented in the order I tasted the Vini D'Annata.

Azienda Agricola Colognole
Colognole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Dusky brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and young with violets and irises mingled with ripe, almost chewy cherry fruit. Very fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense brambly acidity and tannins that have a slightly bitter youthful burr, and flow into a clean slightly sour tannic berry fruit finish. Young, fresh, and deft, and will drink well with hearty pasta dishes -- we're in the land of sugo, meat sauce made with ground meat -- and also with simple grilled meats, while there is sufficient acidity and tannic bite to make it a good bet with fried meats and vegetables too.
2 stars

Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections paling to the rim. The bouquet is fresh, and bright, with lively rather greenish berry fruit supported by clean spice and some cedar. On the palate it's full, with bright red berry fruit supported by nicely balanced acidity and bitter minerality, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a clean bitter finish. Quite nice in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with stews or roasts, though I would give it at least a year and probably more; I would expect it to be fairly long lived.
2 stars


Azienda Agricola Frascole
Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and a little more mature than some younger wines are, with brambly green leather mingled with some rather sour berry fruit; there's nice balance and definition, and with swishing hints of menthol and vegetal notes also emerge. On the palate it's fairly full, and very smooth, with an oddly jammy sweet feel to the fruit, which is cherry and forest berry supported by moderate acidity and tannins that though quite soft on the initial attack leave a bitter dusty trail over the tongue as they flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a bit unusual, with a languid feel to it that I wouldn't expect in a very young Chianti Rufina -- there's less acidity than I had expected -- , and I wonder if they let the grapes overripen somewhat this year. Because of its relatively low acidity and languidity of the tannins I would be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced oriental dishes in addition to the more standard simple grilled meats and hearty pasta dishes or soups -- it will be just about perfect with ribollita or a kale farinata (link to). Bottom line: Pleasant, but not as fresh as I might have hoped.
1 star

Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit laced with cedar and sea salt, and some underlying balsamic notes. It needs time. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and sour undertones, while the tannins are quite smooth, and also rich. It's cut from the same cloth as the annata, but much more successful, because the added richness of the fruit keeps it from feeling settled. Pleasant, and if you like the style it will work very well with stews or roasts. Quick to write, but I liked it.
87-9

Azienda Agricola Il Prato
Il Prato Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep brick ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with bitterness and some green leather, and underlying brambly berry fruit with some hints of stable straw. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, and quite fresh, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by bright raspberry acidity and by tannins that are light, and deft, and flow into a clean rather tart finish. Cheeky, like a teen batting her eyes, and will drink quite well with simple pasta dishes, cold cuts, and grilled meats. In short, a nice wine to set out at the table day to day, which will also be perfect for cookouts or picnics. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Il Prato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents -- artichokes -- and clean acidity; while it is clearly developing it also shows nice promise. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by lively cherry raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite nice, and though still a child will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and has the wherewithal to age nicely for many years, becoming lacy with time. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Travignoli
Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep brick ruby with lively reflections (the sun has come out) and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright jammy red berry fruit with some greenish accents and spice. Quite fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and by smooth slightly bitter tannins that flow into a clean cherry finish with bitter underpinning. It's a bit more reserved than some, like a person standing behind a corner, and this is in part its youth. I would give it a year, and drink it with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit laced with spice and hints of petroleum -- it's a work in progress. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderately intense berry fruit supported clean bitter tannins, while the acidity that provides direction is cherry laced, and somewhat vegetal. It's fairly direct, and up front -- what you see is what you get, and it's still digesting its oak -- but also a nice food wine that will drink well with grilled meats, or with succulent stews, and I think it could do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste
Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep brick ruby with cherry rim and white nail. The bouquet is muted, with moderately rich brandied plum fruit supported by cool airiness that brings to mind dappled shade, and a fair amount of alcohol; the overall impression is in any case one of freshness. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderately intense rather sour berry fruit that's fairly generic, supported by greenish tannins that have a slight burr, and by moderate acidity that flows into a dry tannic finish. It's a bit tired, and feels as if it may have been somewhat overcropped -- there's not as much concentration of fruit as I might have expected. This said, it's a perfectly adequate food wine of the sort that will go very fast at the table, providing support for what's served without trying to upstage it. In short, it will work well in the proper setting.
1 star

Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with cocoa aromas emerging at the first swish, followed by a certain airiness and some brandied fruit -- more the alcohol than the fruit, truth be told, and as I closed my eyes I found myself thinking about chocolates filled with grappa. There's a lot of oak here, and it covers just about everything. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense rather bitter fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by tannins that are fairly splintery, but not stiff, and it all flows into a bitter finish. It's trying too hard, I think.
1 star

Cantina Sociale VI.CA.S
Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Brick ruby with brick rim that has slight hints of almandine to it. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vegetal accents and hints of dried porcini mushrooms mingling with chopped meat and savory sea salt. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with moderately intense slightly sour red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's direct and up front - no subtlety to it -- and will drink well with simple foods. In short, a wine to set out and drink, and there is a place for this sort of thing in the Wine Pantheon.
1 star

Cantine F.lli Bellini
Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with back reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit laced with cedar and some balsamic accents. Nice balance in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tart cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly greenish underpinning, and flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, but this is also youth, and if you like the more traditional style it is pleasant, and will drink well with succulent red meats or stews, while it also has the capacity to age well for many years, and will become lacy with time.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Dreolino
Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, and as it opens reveals brambly bitterness with underlying forest berry fruit. Quite fresh. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense fairly acidic red berry fruit -- forest berry more than cherry, and tart -- supported by warm splintery tannins that flow into a clean rather sour tannic finish. It's scrappy, and decidedly traditional, a wine that will drink quite well with simple grilled meats, or fried meats, and will also age nicely for a few years thanks to its acidity. If you like the scrappy traditional style you will enjoy it. If you instead prefer smoother, softer, more fruit driven wines it won't work for you at all.
2 stars

Dreolino Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with lively berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and cedar, and by some graphite shaving bitterness as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather graceful, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from pleasant slightly mineral berry fruit acidity, and is supported by clean rather brambly tannins that flow into a clean bright brambly finish with lasting bitterness. Scrappy, and light on its toes, rather like a tomboy who's mostly elbows and knees, but display charm; it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or stews, and will age nicely, becoming rather ethereal and lacy with time. If you like this distinctly traditional style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer smoother, softer, more fruit driven wines there are other options.
2 stars

Scopetani S.R.L.
Scopetani Riasso Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a chemical key, with shellac and some herbal accents but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather languid cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean cherry finish. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose, and given its considerable youth it could be that the nose is simply deep in the stupid phase that can follow bottling. Assuming this is the case, it will be a direct food wine when it gets its bearings, in 6-8 months (fall 2009).
1 star

Scopetani Vigna Macereto Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim; it's practically poured ink. The bouquet is ample and quite ripe, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by mentholated greenish spice and some cedar; it has a distinctly overripe feel to it. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense frankly generic cherry plum fruit supported by bitter tartness and by tannins that have a balsamic cast to them, and flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with savory dried prune overtones. It's sagging, and considering that it's also fresh out of the blocks, it's too soon for this to be happening.
1 star

Scopetani 913 Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with red berry fruit supported by some brambly acidity and by some wet straw as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have an ample slightly greenish burr to them, and flow into a clean dry slightly sour finish. It's fairly direct, but does display pleasant depth and body, and will drink well with roasts or stews. A distinct improvement with respect to Vigna Macereto.
2 stars

Scopetani Stellario Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though energetic swishing does bring forth some cedar. Very young, and hiding. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth; it's direct, and up front, and -- though I hate to say this -- rather plain. There are plain people, and there are plain wines, and this is an example of the latter. Nothing wrong with it, and it will work well with foods, supporting rather than demanding the limelight, but it won't go further.
1 star

Castello di Nipozzano Marchesi de'Frescobaldi
Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and forest berry fruit laced with cocoa and cedar shavings; there's quite a bit of fruit but also quite a bit of wood and they have yet to decide which will predominate. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that again owe quite a bit to wood, and have distinctly dry cedary undertones that separate from everything else. It's like looking at a kid in diapers; one can guess from the older siblings that it will come out well, but it's frankly too soon to judge this particular wine. But I do think it's promising, and will likely be quite nice when it gets its bearings, in 2-3 years.

Vigneto Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black cherry rim; more poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and eye opening; there's even more wood than in the Nipozzano, and though some rather deft cherry fruit does manage to peep out from under the oaky tarp, it's almost completely hidden from view at present. On the palate it's richer than the Nipozzano, with more powerful fruit that manages to emerge despite the bitter accents that come from the wood, which also provides very smooth tannins, and some smoky notes in the finish. It's going to be quite good, in a decidedly international key, but needs a few years to get there. As with the Nipozzano, it's really too young to judge at present.

Castello del Trebbio

They brought several vintages of Lastricato, their Riserva:

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with dusky cherry fruit laced with some leaf tobacco and spice, and underlying cedar, with some hints of prune as well. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with clean slightly bitter cherry fruit that gains direction from deft greenish berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that have an undercurrent of steel to them, and a slight burr as well. Quite nice, and clearly climbing; it's a wine I was happy to taste, though the bottle would have had much more to say in a few years. In other words, a wine to set aside, and (eventually) enjoy with a sumptuous steak or roast.
88-90

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2005
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is airy, with quite a bit of cedar, and a moderate underpinning of fruit; there's less substance than in the 2004. On the palate it's full, with moderately rich red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have ample bitter accents and end up carrying the show, flowing into a long decidedly bitter graphite finish. I have often said that 2004 is much superior to 2005 in Tuscany, and this wine provides dramatic proof, because it's a head below its older sibling, and will never match it.
1 star

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite young, with red berry fruit supported by cedar, and some gum Arabic; it needs time to further develop. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bracing cherry acidity and by tannins that have a youthful splintery burr to them, but promise well, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's a work in progress, but a nice work in progress, and will contribute mightily to a meal built around a hearty roast or stew, and also age nicely for quite some time, decades even. Worth seeking out, but do give it time - 3-5 years at least.
88

Fattoria di Basciano
Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with purpling rim. Close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit that's soft and rather sweet supported by jammy accents. Quite ripe, and harmonious. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported more by bitter accents from the tannins that by acidity, and indeed the direction also comes from the bitterness. This is a clear stylistic decision; the winemakers aimed for maximum ripeness and concentration and then worked with it; one of the consequences of this decision is a relative lack of acidity, and this means that if you look for scrappy acidity in your wine this won't work for you. If you instead like concentrated, quite ripe fruit driven wines, it will, and will drink well with drier meats, for example pot roasts or roast beef cooked medium.
2 stars

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic accents mingled with cedar and savory notes, including some sea salt; the cedar is foremost at present. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with fairly rich plum-prune fruit supported by just enough acidity to provide direction, and by smooth sweet tannins that have an undercurrent of graphite-cedar bitterness, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. A great load of oak and very ripe fruit, and the combination is overblown for me; the wine feels settled, and a young Riserva shouldn't.
1 star

Fattoria di Grignano
Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with brick ruby in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and rather brambly, with forest berry fruit and greenish accents as well. Quite young. On the palate it's medium bodied, and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean bright cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm youthful burr, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. The nose needs a few more months as of this writing (Nov. 2008), but it's a lark of a wine that will drink very well with foods, bringing life and a smile to hearty pasta dishes, simple stews, and grilled or fried meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar mingled with red berry fruit and some spice, and the overall impression is fairly austere -- also because it's clearly in mid stride and has a ways to go. On the palate it's quite nice, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that still display youthful cedary overtones, and flow into a warm berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's very young, but rather like a partially finished painting, does reveal enough to show it will be worth waiting for. I'd give it 2-3 years to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for many more. If you like the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it considerably, and even if you're a fan of smoother softer fruit driven wiens you'll find things to think about and enjoy.
88

Fattoria Il Capitano
Via del Capitano 11, Pontassieve (FI) 50065
Tel.: 0558315600

Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Lively cherry ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is a bit brambly with some medicinal accents and eucalyptus, and underlying vegetal notes. Not much fruit at first swish, nor with more swishing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean bright rather brambly finish. It's quite direct, and if the nose catches up with the palate over the next few months (say by June 2009) will be rather cheeky and drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, while there is sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats and vegetables as well. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Fattoria Il Lago
Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Lively ruby with brilliant reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fresh, with greenish floral accents and warm slightly balsamic spice, mingled with hints of green leather. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a slightly chalky brambly feel to them, and flow into a sour greenish tannic finish. It's a little more direct than I would have liked, with the fruit delegating some of its task of carrying the wine to the tannins, which do an adequate job but aren't quite the same thing. This said, I prefer this to a wine that is overripe and settled, and because of its astringency and tannic backbone it will drink well with fattier frilled meats, light stews, and also do a nice job accompanying fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The nose is shut tight -- nobody home, and if they are they're not answering the knock -- though swishing does bring up some carob fruit mingled with slight balsam and spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. It's like a kid who has a fair amount of baby fat; as the pudge disappears all sorts of interesting aesthetic qualities can emerge, but they take time. Bottom line: As it stands it's pleasant in a one directional key, but it could do very interesting things with time.
2 stars

Fattoria I Veroni
I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Lively cherry ruby with white nail. The bouquet is bright, with unusual very fresh floral accents, more chrysanthemum and cut flower than the violet one would usually expect -- it's like ducking into a flower shop, with acidity that increases as it opens. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit that's overlain by floral accents that resemble those of the nose, and add a counterpoint of bitterness, while the finish is fairly long and vegetal. This is the first time I've encountered a wine like this -- I associate this sort of floral accent more with whites than reds -- and to be honest I have no idea how it will develop. In short, particular, and atypical; a fellow taster with a more technical grounding talks about malolactic fermentation in bottle.
1 star

I Veroni Vendemmia Duemilasei Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is smoky, with considerable cedar, pungent balsamic undertones, savory accents that stretch into wet stable straw, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with rather languid cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a decidedly cedar-laced burr and flow into a cedary finish. It's trying, and fresher than the 2007 Vino D'annata, but still falls short for me, primarily on the nose, which isn't as clean as I might have liked.
1 star

Fattoria Lavacchio
Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by greenish leaf tobacco and spice; though it's very young and in mid stride it promises nicely. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate graphite laced acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though there is a burr, and again bitter. It's quite young, but promises well, and when the pieces have fallen into place (Summer 2009) will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also hold nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with deep cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though not that defined, with cherry prune fruit mingling with spice and jammy overtones; it's a work in progress and clearly still sorting itself out. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains direction from bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by moderately intense tannins that have a distinctly greenish cedary burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's very young, and very much in the formative stage; at present it lacks the deftness displayed by the 2007 Vino D'Annata displays, but this is also a factor of youth. Expect it to age nicely, and within 2-3 years it will begin to drink well with red meats, ranging from succulent roasts and grilled meats through stews.
2 stars

Fattoria Selvapiana
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted -- youth at work -- though swishing brings up red berry fruit laced with hints of violets and some spice, with hints of gum Arabic as well. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit fruit, a combination of cherry and wild berry, supported by deft acidity and by tannins that have a haunting smoothness coupled with bitter graphite underlay, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and though it does need a year for the pieces to come together (Fall 2009) it will be well worth waiting for, and drink well with succulent roasts or stews. I would also expect it to age well for a number of years. Worth seeking out.
90

Fattoria Selvapiana Vigneto Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some delicate berry fruit and deft cherry acidity, with hints of spice as well. It's like looking at something through a screen, which allows one to see just enough to know that the subject it interesting, but no fine details. On the palate it's much further long, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by brooding acidity, and by tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness to them, flowing into a clean bitter finish. Of course "much further" is a relative term; in the grand scheme of things the wine remains woefully young, and though I will tell you to buy it - in bulk, even -- I will also tell you to set it aside for at least 3-5 years, and expect it to show at its best subsequently, say within 10. In short, impressive, but for the future.
88

Fattorie Galiga e Vetrice
Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a frankly rustic, with animal notes, specifically wet stable straw and cool balsamic underpinning; a fellow taster talks about chicken coops, and there are also medicinal accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich sour berry fruit that has a slight peppery spice feel to it, and is supported by a combination of acidity and splintery dry tannins that flow into a rather soft cherry plum finish. The rusticity that one finds on the nose carries through into the palate, and if you like this style you will like the wine. But only if.
1 star

Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cherry plum accents mingled with spice and hints of cedar. On the palate it's ample, and rather disjointed, with fairly intense sour berry fruit that goes in one direction, while bitter smoky tannins are going in another, and the finish is bitter and rather tart. Will the two directions ever come together?
1 star

Marchesi Gondi Tenuta Bossi
Marchesi Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim; poured ink. The bouquet is rich, and quite fresh, with violets and lively cherry fruit supported by moderate raspberry acidity and an undercurrent of jammy sweetness. It's up in the air, but pleasant. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a dusty burr, and flow into a clean right berry fruit finish. It needs another few months to get its bearings -- say by June 2009 -- but will drink very well with succulent roasts or stews, and is well worth seeking out if you prefer the more traditional style. Even if you like smoother, softer fruit driven wines you'll find things to like.
88-90

Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by some jammy prune fruit, and by deft spice with some underlying acidity and hints of cedar; it's still clearly a work in progress. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly bitter berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that will be smooth, but now have a slight dry burr to them and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish. It's promising, in a rather flinty way -- a friend would say something "about hard as nails" -- and needs a few years for everything to settle into place. It will be worth the wait, and when it is ready it will age well for a decade and likely much more. In short, something to set aside and wait for.
2 stars

Podere il Pozzo
Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and moderate berry fruit. It's like a person curled into a ball, who Wants To Be Left Alone. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by unusual peppery spice that almost has a petilliant feel to it, and by slightly greenish tannins that flow into a tart finish. At tastings of this sort one often feels as if one were examining kindergarteners, but this child is even younger. Too young to judge, really.

Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar supporting some red berry fruit that has prune accents. On the palate it's ample, with rather nondescript berry fruit, a mix of plum and cherry, supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a decidedly bitter oaky cast to them, and flow into a rather cedar-laced finish. It needs another couple of years to get its legs under it, but only will go so far.
1 star

Want To Know More? The Chianti Rufina Site