Nobile di Montepulciano: The 2008 Vintage, Mostly

The folks at Montepulciano presented the 2008 vintage of Il Vino Nobile this year. It was pleasant, perhaps somewhat superior to the 2007, though as has been the case in the past few years, what is really important is the style of the winemaker, more than the vintage -- of the three major Tuscan red appellations Nobile di Montepulciano continues to display the greatest variability overall, with some wineries favoring extraction and considerable small new oak, and others being much more sober, with wines that are more austere and are based more on the interplay of tannin, fruit and acidity.

The appellation is also expanding, as are the winemakers; in the talk before pouring began we were told that there are currently 1400 hectares of Vino Nobile vineyards, while the number of estates that bottle has climbed to 75; 35 of these which are small estates, 10 are organic, and a number have taken the steps to become biodynamic.

Total Vino Nobile production is 65,000 hectoliters, which is well under the maximum volume the Disciplinare would allow (100,000 hectoliters), while this year's bottle sales totaled 8 million Vino Nobile, 2 million Rosso di Montepulciano (this year the Consorzio voted to allow the use of non-cork stoppers for Rosso, a development that I think is quite positive as it eliminates the problem of cork taint), and "a few thousand" bottles of vinsanto.

More winemakers are entering the fold, and the overall prospects for the appellation look good.

The wines, tasted February 2011 We began with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008 To begin, an observation: There were many barrel samples, and while this is justified by the time period in which the presentation took place, it is limiting, because a barrel sample has yet to even think about the evolution it will undergo while in bottle. Because of this I consider barrel samples to be unfinished wines, works in progress if you will, and generally prefer not to score them.

Tenuta La Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and fairly vegetal, with cherry fruit supported by deft greenish accents. Nice richness for a barrel sample. On the palate it's pleasant, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are fairly intense and have a greenish burr, and flow into a long warm tart finish. It will be quite pleasant and drink very well with grilled meats or light roasts, and will also age well for 5-8 years. Fairly traditional in feel, with lively acidity and brash tannins.

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and a fair amount of spice. Quite opulent, and though not quite Valeria Marini in a glass (Google her images) headed in that direction. The palate reflects the nose, but it's not lax; there's rich plum fruit with prune and slight brown sugar sweetness supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary overlay, and by moderate prune-mineral acidity that is sufficient to provide direction, and it flows into a fairly long cherry prune finish. It's an opulent wine, and if you like this rich fruit driven style you will enjoy it.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by clean mineral-laced spice and by some acidity; it's obviously still developing but on a pleasant track. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by savory tannins that have slight balsamic accents, and by berry fruit acidity that has a fair amount of warmth, and flows into a clean fairly tart finish. Graceful, in a rather essential fairly direct key; it's a wine that will work very well with hearty pasta dishes, simple grilled or roasted meats, and will also work nicely with fried meats -- rabbit or chicken or lamb chops -- in an elegant setting.
2 stars

Tenuta di Poggio Uliveto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with cherry plum fruit supported by pleasant spice and by some berry grape jam accents. Accents that are reflected on the palate; it's smooth and though not really sweet does have rich ripe prune fruit with the sweetness of ripe prunes, and is supported by tannins that are rather dusky, with graphite shaving bitterness and a slight blockiness that is youth, and flow into a fairly long prune finish that gradually fades into tannins that are present but neither dry nor splintery. It's still getting its legs about it, in a fairly rich, rather opulent ripe fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer livelier, more aggressive red fruit and acidity it won't work as well for you. Because of its richness it will -- if you like the style -- work quite well with drier roasts, including white meats, and because of the softness might be a bet with mildly spiced oriental meats.
2 stars

Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly pungent alcohol and a fair amount of cedar, but not much else. On the palate it's ample in a ripe key with greenish bell pepper-laced berry plum fruit supported by tannins that are splintery now, and cedar laced, and flow into a cedar-laced finish. It needs time to come together, and will be fairly international in style when it is ready.

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and white at the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a very ripe key, with warm cedar balanced by spice and plum berry fruit; it has a rather settled feel to it. On the palate it's fairly full, with rather generic berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a strong cedar overlay whose warmth makes it seem somewhat balsamic. To be honest, in sipping it I felt rather like a peeping Tom; it's going in several directions at once, and I would rather give it a little longer, until it has an inkling of where it wants to go, before scoring it. It simply needs time

Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a rush of bell peppers and graphite shavings supported by some spice, but not much in the way of red fruit. On the palate it's ripe, with plum cherry fruit that has some bell pepper overtones and is fairly sweet; the sweetness confers roundness and a certain voluptuousness to it, and though it's not sweet enough to be cloying the sweetness helps define the wine, while there is some mineral acidity to give definition, and the tannins are smooth and fairly light, though they do have some graphite shaving bitterness to them that carries into the finish. It's ample and soft, and if you like the style, which is decidedly unaggressive, it will work well with drier roasts such as pork loin or turkey breast. If you prefer brighter more acidic wines it won't work for you.
1 star

Terra Antica Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with cedary accents and some quite ripe prune plum fruit, but it's still coming together and lacks definition. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by cedar laced tannins whose cedary accents, interacting with the fruit, bring sweet oatmeal to mind, something I associate more with other wines than Nobile, while there is some mineral acidity, and the tannins are decidedly cedar laced. It's heavily oaked, and hasn't yet digested the oak; while it may the oak will always color the wine, and you should only consider it if you prefer wines that have a very ripe fruit cast. If you prefer sourer fruit, it won't work for you.
1 star

Fassati Passiteo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy plum fruit supported by fairly rich spice and some underlying cedar; it's harmonious in an opulent ripe key, and rich for a barrel sample. On the palate it's rich, with powerful jammy prune fruit that gains roundness and richness from sweetness, while the tannins are ample, smooth, and have a clean oaky cast to them, leading into a rich plum finish. It's a (very) curvy starlet in a glass, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer red fruit and lively acidity it simply won't work for you.

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with leafy underbrush and some balsamic accents and some sea salt; though it began dusky, it became brighter as it opened and red berry fruit emerged. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's fairly direct in a middle of the road key, and pleasant though it will profit from another year of bottle age; it will work well with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats and light stews, and will age nicely 3-5 years. It grew on me.
2 stars

Poggio Golo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some prune plum fruit. On the palate it's further along, with brighter than expected plum cherry fruit supported by fairly rich mineral acidity and by ample tannins that have some hazelnut accents now, and flow into a warm finish with tannins and some hot milk. It's all over the map at present, but should come together in a modern middle of the road key.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some brambly notes, while there is also a jammy sweetness that suggests ripe roundness. On the palate it's ample, with rich prune fruit supported by mineral acidity that does a good job of providing direction, and by tannins that are ample, soft, and smooth, and flow into a fairly long plum finish with some cherry notes, which gains definition from a fairly bright savory underpinning. It's pleasant in a decidedly ripe key, and if you like ample fruit driven wines you will enjoy it. If you instead prefer wines that are tighter and more defined, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope -- poured ink -- with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample and quite ripe, with powerful prune fruit supported by cocoa and cedar shavings; it's very ripe and heavily oaked at present. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich plum fruit that has slight caramel accents, which are due to wood, and is supported by a combination of mineral acidity that provides nice direction, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart mineral plum acidity finish. It's a big wine, but does have enough acidity to provide good direction, and as such brings to mind a fat person who dances well -- unlike me.

Casa Vinicola Triacca Santavenere Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Almost impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly vegetal, with greenish berry fruit supported by bell pepper and graphite shavings that confer a degree of bitterness, and by hints of scalded milk and sea salt, while there is also some prune-plum acidity. On the palate it's not as opulent as I expected; there's fairly graceful cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are slightly mineral, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit plum finish. It's quite promising in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and will also stand up to spicier fare such as bbq, I think. I would give it a year to pull together, and expect it to age well for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Tenuta il Faggeto Pietra del Diavolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some prune fruit and some cedar, but it's still under wraps for the most part. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that are cedar laced, and by moderate acidity, which flow into a tannic finish with underlying bitterness. I'd have liked a bit more acidity than I found, because it's not directionless, but not as purposeful as I might have wanted either.

Fanetti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ink with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some cedar and some ripe fruit, but not much of either. It is under wraps. On the palate it's ample, with prune fruit supported by tannins that are broad and though they start out smooth become quite blocky and cover all in the finish. It's a classic barrel sample, with all the limitations of its kind, and not ready to be judged.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and white rim; it's a little paler than some. The bouquet is fresh and young, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by jammy accents and some greenish brambles with underlying acidity. On the palate it's fresh, with bright sour cherry fruit that has slight jammy sweetness to it, and is supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and smooth, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish. It's pleasant, in a cheeky fruit driven key, and will work quite well with simple pasta dishes, grilled meats, or light stews -- Chicken Pot Pie comes to mind -- and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. A fellow taster suggests bbq and he's right. In any case, expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Vecchia Cantina Poggio Stella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and jammy, with cherry blackberry jam supported by some sweet vegetal accents and by spice; it's riep but not overripe, and decidedly jammy, what a friend of French extraction calls confetture. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry black berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are drier than I expected, flowing into a dry tannic finish. The fruit starts out well but draws up short, and while it will lengthen as the tannins smooth, I had expected more. It will in any case drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Il Cavalierino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is out of sorts, with a fair amount of wood supported by shellac and sweetness, while there is also cherry plum fruit. It's like an octopus, stretching in every direction. On the palate it's disjointed, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderate oddly mineral acidity that has hints of balsam. It's way too young to say anything constructive about, because the pieces are still orbiting each other warily.

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant in a ripe key, with plum fruit supported by jammy fruit accents and some acidity, while there is also some spice and an underpinning of graphite shavings. On the palate it's ripe, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by lively sour plum acidity and by tannins that are still too young, with an oaky component that hasn't yet melded with the grape component. It's promising, but very much a barrel sample, and won't be ready to be drunk for another year at least. Something to wait for in a ripe but not overripe key, and with nice acidity that provides direction.

Montemercurio Messaggero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though there is a fair amount of bitter cocoa that drifts up -- not much else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense prune plum fruit supported by tannins that are rather blocky, and by mineral acidity that is enough to keep it from settling, though the tannins interrupt it as it tries to direct, and flow into a very tannic finish. The tannins will smooth with time, and there is some mineral -- not fruit -- acidity but I don't think I can say much more now.

Croce di Febo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy prune fruit supported by bell pepper and vegetal accents, and by some wood smoke spice as well. Rich in a ripe key, and nice for a barrel sample. On the palate it's rich, with cherry prune fruit that gains direction from warm sour cherry acidity that has slight greenish accents, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's big, and quite ripe, but does have a pleasant direction to it, and if you like the style will work well with hearty stews, including spicier fare such as goulash, or with red meats that aren't really rare. A steak cooked medium, for example.

Tenuta di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some alcohol and hints of hazelnut shells mingled with, as it opens, some spice and acidity, and prune fruit underlying it all. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense prune plum fruit that lacks acidity and as a result direction, while the tannins are ample and smooth. I'd have liked more acidity, because it wavers, and while the tannins will smooth in with time the acidity won't emerge if it's not there now.
1 star

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with cherry prune fruit supported by some greenish accents, and by some spice. It suggests the wine is decidedly rich, and rather opulent in key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune fruit supported by some greenish acidity and by tannins that are seriously blocky, coating the tongue and flowing into a warm prune finish. It's promising in an opulent, very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer scrappier wines with more acidity it won't work as well for you. In short, not for everyone.

Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by jammy accents and some bell peppers, and by spice as well. Quick to write, but harmonious at the outset, though stronger greenish notes emerge with more swishing. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and slightly green; it's pleasant but a bit understated, lacking in oomph on the part of the fruit, which does take the center palate but doesn't manage to fill it completely. Because of this I wouldn't drink it by the glass, though I would consider drinking it with simple grilled meats or light stews that will profit from the tannins; it does in any case need a year to come together, and by March 2012 will be much better than it is now.
1 star

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some sealing wax emerges with energetic sniffing. Barrel samples can be out of sorts and this is. On the palate it's round and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are rather blocky and do provide warmth, though they don't go much further than that. It's like a lost toddler, wandering about looking for a familiar face.

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet open with a rush of chocolate, milk chocolate, with hints of Kailua liqueur. Wood that is at present overshadowing the fruit, and this can happen in a barrel sample. On the palate it's moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by spice from wood and slight vegetal notes, and also fairly bright berry fruit acidity that has some spur prune accents, and flows into a fairly bright tannic finish. The palate is promising, and if it casts off the wood in the nose it will be interesting in a middle of the road key.

Nottola Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is savory, with a fair amount of wood, and underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's direct, with warm berry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary overlay and some sea salt, and by moderate savory acidity. It's a bit flatter than some, and though the tannins will smooth the acidity we have is the acidity we work with.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still up in the air, with plum and forest berry fruit on the one hand, and slightly balsamic acidity and some scalded milk on the other, and some spice too. On the palate it's again disjointed, with sour cherry plum fruit supported by unusual candied sweet notes that bring cola gummy bears to mind, and peppery spice that flows into a peppery finish with candied overtones. It's in mid stride and needs to take at least a few more steps before it will be judgeable.

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Almost impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is still coming together, with cedar laced with musty dried orange peel and some spice, but not as much fruit as it might have; it's also not as clean as I would have liked. On the palate it's dusky, with fairly rich cherry ruby fruit supported by some acidity, more mineral than fruit but it is there, and by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's still very young, and I would give it a year for the palate to come together and the nose to develop. I liked the palate better than the nose.
1 star

Gattavecchi Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with prune and plum fruit supported by some cedar and jammy accents. On the palate it's full, with rich smooth plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, enough to provide some direction, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and have a cedary overlay to them. It's ample, and will smooth nicely, and if you like big soft ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it.

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rather languid sweet plum fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some cedar. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with plum fruit supported by sour plum acidity that manages to make an appearance before it's cut off by angry bitter tannins that carry into a bitter tannic finish. It's quite far behind, and the tannins will need at least a year to smooth. An angry young man.

Tenimentio Angelini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is murky, with wet earth and some dried orange peel supported by balsamic warmth and hints of stable straw; it gives an impression of being uncertain about where it's going. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and fairly balsamic, and do have an angry burr, while the acidity is warm and a bit greenish, and there are also savory notes. It's a bit tired, though this may be the impression it gives in youth; it needs at least a year to come togethe3r and be presentable, and two wouldn't hurt.


Nobile di Montepulciano 2008 Selezione
These are vineyard selections. Some are quite good, while others, alas, give the impression of trying too hard to be Wines with a capital W.

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vigna L'Alfiero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections, it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of greenish cedar that covers most everything. The palate is just as eye-opaning, with rip berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and tannins that are cedar laced with hints of sandalwood and spice. A great lot of oak, and though the fruit may emerge to lead in the future I'm not sure that it will.

Gattavecchi Parceto Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Poured pyrope ink with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with prune fruit supported by chalk and some spice; it's still coming together. On the palate it's ample, with prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a blocky burr and flow into a dry tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It's badly disjointed and needs at least a year to start thinking about what it wants to be, though I would guess heavily oaked in a ripe international key. It's a bit soon to say much else.

Vecchia Cantina Cantina del Redi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is quite ripe, and spicy, with prune fruit supported by peppery nutmeg spice and some jammy accents; as it opens warm hints of leather and leaf tobacco also emerge. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with rich smooth plum fruit that gains definition from brighter than expected berry fruit acidity, a mix of currants and raspberry, and by tannins that are smooth with bitter graphite underpinning, and flow into a fairly long warm tannic finish that again has dusky graphite bitterness to it. It's big, and ripe, but does have acidity to give direction; this said, it seems to be trying to keep a foot on either side of the ripeness/overripeness fence, and I'm not sure how well it's succeeding. It's a wine that will work more with rich slow-cooked braised meats (including spicier things such as goulash or a peposo than by the glass.
2 stars

Fassati Gersemi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ink with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is still out to sea, with a rush of bitter grilled pepper with some underlying berry fruit jam and some graphite shavings. To be quite honest, if someone were to put a glass under my nose and say, "Guess," I would say, "Cabernet. Perhaps not pure, but it's there." On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm plum laced finish. It's actually fairly ready on the palate, in a very ripe fruit driven key, but also has enough acidity to keep things from drifting, and that's a good thing. If you like the style you will enjoy it.

Nobile di Montepulciano 2007

Villa Sant'Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and not clean; there's a mustiness mingled with dried orange peel that I associate with wood that's past its prime. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit that gains direction from fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a sour cherry finish with some savory underpinning. A pity about the nose, and I'd have liked tighter definition to the palate too.
74

Il Cavalierino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by hardwood ash and some peppery spice with a fair amount of alcohol and some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that's supported by moderately intense mineral acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with slight balsamic bitterness. I'd have liked a little more brightness to the acidity, which is more mineral than fruit driven. It's fairly traditional, in feel, and will work well with grilled or roasted meats.
2 stars

Montemercurio Messaggero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Poured pyrope ink with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and still coming together; it opens with a rush of greenish spice and something that brings to mind cleaning supplies -- something chemical. Not much fruit. On the palate it's quite ripe, with prune cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and by tannins that have graphite bitterness to them, and flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish with underlying peppery spice. It needs time, but I found myself wishing for more depth and definition.
1 star

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some spice and peppery accents. Not much fruit. The palate is brighter than I expected, with fairly lively cherry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a clean tannic finish with fairly bright sour cherry fruit. I would give the nose a year to catch up with the body, and then drink it with a steak or a roast; in terms of style it's middle of the road towards the traditional side of the spectrum.
1 star

Poggio Golo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with sea salt and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a bit lacking in verve, and I'd have liked greater richness and depth to the nose, which doesn't have as much fruit as I would have wanted.
1 star

La Ciarlana Vigna Scianello Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with almandine brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal-laced plum cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents. On the palate it's full and quite ripe, with prune fruit supported by tannins that have a smooth cedary overlay and flow into a fairly long finish with lasting bitterness. It's going to be rather opulent, in a rich fruit driven very ripe key.

Casa Vinicola Triacca Poderuccio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable bitter graphite shavings and some spice supported by slightly chalky accents; there are hints of berry fruit, but not much more than that. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with cherry and plum fruit supported by fairly lively mineral sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright sour fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's bit, and soft, but not as overripe as I had feared from the nose, and will work well with slowly cooked flavorful meats, or even a steak, if it's not absolutely rare. Something to think about if you like the style.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather balsamic, with warm balsamic acidity laced with sea salt and stable straw, and fairly bright acidity as well. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and by tannins that are glancing now, but that will smooth with time, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's very young in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or steaks in the short term, and also age well for 5-8 years or more. If you like fruit driven ripe wines it won't work for you, but if you like a rather rustic tart style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2007

Dei Riserva Bossona Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol and some cedar supporting some berry fruit, though what really comes out now is the alcohol. On the other hand, it's a barrel sample. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sweet cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are greenish and lay a veneer over the tongue. It's quite behind, and needs time before it will be ready for people to say much about it.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and some cedar. Fairly rich in a ripe rather opulent key. On the palate it's rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr of the sort one expects from a barrel sample. It's promising, in an opulent and ripe but not overripe key; if you like the style you will enjoy it.

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up prune fruit supported by some gum Arabic (rubber cement, even) and spice. It gives an impression of considerable opulent ripeness. On the palate it's quite ripe, with powerful sweet plum fruit supported by peppery spice and moderate acidity, while the tannins have a youthful peppery burr to them, and flow into a rather quick -- too quick -- peppery finish. It needs another year to come together, but will be quite ripe in a rather opulent key when it is ready. If the finish lengthens it will be nice in the style.
1 star

Croce di Febo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with petroleum and wood smoke mingled with ripe prune fruit and fairly intense greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are rather blocky, and flow into a fairly bright tannic finish. I'd have liked more richness and ripeness to the fruit, which is a little thinner than I hoped for.
1 star

Avignonesi Riserva Grandi Annate Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Lively almandine with brilliant reflections and almandine rim; it's a bit paler than some -- no ink. The bouquet is fairly rich though quite young, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice. Promising but needs time. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long slightly greenish finish with lasting sour cherry warmth. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though it will profit from another year at least in bottle, one could drink it now with a steak or hearty roast, along the lines of leg of lamb. Expect it to age well for up to 10 years.
86-8

Icario Riserva Vitaroccia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with quite ripe prune cherry fruit supported by some mineral acidity, though not so much as I would have liked, and by tannins that are quite bitter, with a cedar overlay, and flow into a tongue-bending tannic finish. It needs at least a year for the tannins to sort themselves out -- 2 would be better -- but I wouldn't keep it for much longer, because there isn't much acidity, and the fruit is already quite soft.

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine -- almost poured ink -- with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit more rustic than I expected from the color; there's balsamic acidity mingled with stable straw and greenish brambly accents but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with ample sour fruit that's fairly generic -- what really comes through is the sourness -- supported by minerality and warmth, while the tannins are decidedly greenish and flow into a long rather green warm tannic finish. It's a bit extreme, and you'll lonely like it if you like this powerful rather rustic style. If you prefer riper wines, or wines with softer riper tannins, it won't work for you. If you do like it, it will work well with succulent red meats, grilled, roasted, or stewed.
1 star

Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and some vegetal notes as well; there's also some sour berry fruit jam. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and fairly rich acidity that flow into a clean rather sour finish. It's a bit blocky, and though it will drink quite well with hearty stews or roasts, I found myself wishing for better definition to the fruit, which is a little lax, leaving more space to the peppery tannins than it might have.
1 star

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit of a surprise, with quite ripe cherry plum fruit supported by jammy accents and some vegetal notes, and fairly bright vegetal acidity. It gives an impression of lush opulence. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are angry in their youth and lay a peppery burr over the tongue, flowing into a fairly long peppery finish. It needs another year to come together, a which point it will be fairly opulent in a modern fruit driven key, but not soft, because the pepperiness of the tannins will fold in some but never disappear completely.
1 star

Nottola Riserva Il Fattore Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory plum fruit supported by jammy notes and spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite ripe, with prune fruit supported by fairly lively cherry-citric acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth. Pleasant in an ample ripe key, and work well with flavorful stews, including spicier stews such as goulash. Something to think about of you like the style. If you instead prefer wines that have tighter, brighter fruit it won't work as well for you.

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and also fairly pungent, with greenish vegetal accents and some spice, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that are big and blocky, and lay a veneer over the tongue and flow into a long tannic finish. It needs at least a year and perhaps two for the tannins to fold in. Problem is, there isn't that much acidity, and because of this I wouldn't age it for much longer than that. It wants to be bigger than it probably should be.
1 star

La Braccesca Riserva Santa Pia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Impenetrable pyrope ink with almandine cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with quite a bit of cedar and some spice, and as it opens some prune fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly intense plum cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral prune acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean smooth slightly bitter prune finish. It's fairly rich, and if you like ample smooth ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it; it will work well with rich stews and hearty, not too rare red meats. If you prefer more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you.
http://www.antinori.it
2 stars

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some warmth. On the palate it's rich, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long plum finish that gains direction from mineral acidity and some savory accents. Pleasant in a rich, ripe fruit driven key, and if you like the style it will work well with hearty slow-cooked stews, including dishes such as goulash, but you do have to like fairly opulent wines. If you prefer tighter, more acidic wines it won't work as well for you.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2006

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with same balsamic accents mingled with slight stable straw and dusky notes that bring dappled shad to mind, and also some greenish spice, with some alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderately intense dusky berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr, and flow into a clean rather warm tannic finish with our cherry and mineral accents that provide direction. It's pleasant, though a little laxer than I might have liked, or at least this is the impression it gives, and it's due at least in part to the tannins, which are still splintery and therefore don't present a unified front. They will smooth with time, while the tannic aggressiveness will make it a good bet with succulent grilled or roasted meats, and also with hearty stews. If you like the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it, and I would expect it to age well for a decade at least.
2 stars