Tuesday, June 14, 2011

The 2010 Bardolino


Bardolino is one of the finest quaffing wines there is: welcoming ruby that brings life to the table, and (ideally) bright fruit supported by lively acidity and deft light tannins, a combination that makes for an extremely refreshing wine well suited to hearty soups or pasta dishes, quickly grilled or fried meats, light stews, and casseroles and the like. In short, versatile, and a fine choice for day-to-day drinking.

Like its more substantial cousin produced in the highlands of the Valpolicella, Bardolino is a blend, made primarily from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Unlike its cousin it's released young, just a few months after the harvest, and this year we have the 2010 vintage, which was relatively cool and wet, making for lively acidities and in many cases rather brambly fruit. Good food wines that will support what they are served with, but not demand center stage.

The wines, tasted on March 6 2011, in the order listed in the Banco D'Assaggio Catalog:

Aldo Adami

Aldo Adami Bardolino 2010
Lively pale ruby with slight hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with sour cherries and raspberries mingled with floral accents and slight bramble. Cheeky. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly bitter finish with tannic underpinning and some dusky bitterness. A pleasant food wine that will go very fast.
2 stars

Fulvio Benazzoli

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some brambly accents and underlying be supported by a fair amount of brambly acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish brambly acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have a burr to them, and flow into a clean slightly greenish sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a scrappy key and will work very well with foods, including the fried meats and vegetables that are nice on a hot day.
2 stars

Bergamini

Bergamini Bardolino 2010

Barrel sample
Lively pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pungent in a rustic key, with wet stable straw and earthiness overlaying some spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense decidedly vegetal fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr, while the earthy barnyard notes present in the nose reemerge in the finish, where the tannins also scrape out over the tongue. It's a more rustic interpretation of Bardolino, and if you like the style you will like it. But you have to like the style.

Bolla

Bolla Bardolino Classico 2010

Slightly deeper cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is brambly, with some red berry fruit and greenish savory spice -- sea salt in spades. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that leave a warm greenish burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean greenish berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a rather scrappy key, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light roasts, and also has the wherewithal to work with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Vinicio Bronzo

Vinicio Bronzo Bardolino 2010

Pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by hot iron and greenish accents; it's still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright lively acidity and moderate berry fruit, supported by some minerality and tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight greenish burr,, while there are also slight sweetish accents that I found distracting, and that interfere some with the wine's definition.
1 star

Cà Bottura

Cà Bottura Bardolino Classico Cà Bottura 2010

Pale cherry ruby with a slight orange cast and brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly berry fruit mingled with licorice root and eucalyptus bitterness, and with savory minerality and slight stable straw as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory --salty even --sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly light, with a slight greenish burr that flows into a fairly long warm finish. Pleasant, in a light scrappy key and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also be a good bet at a cookout, There's not quite enough acidity for it to work really well with fried meats.
2 stars

Cà Dei Colli

Cà Dei Colli Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly sour, with some candied cherry accents as well and an underlying greenness. It's an aroma cast you will either like or not. On the palate it's bright, with intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a long sour finish with lasting warmth and some sea salt. It's quite aggressive, and if you like the style will work very well with fattier foods, for example grilled sausages (and the other rich fixings of a cookout) or fried meats and vegetables. If you prefer wines that show more polish and restraint it won't work for you.
1 star

Cantina di Custoza

Cantina di Custoza Bardolino 2010

Slightly deeper cherry ruby than some, with brilliant pigeon blood ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit duskier than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and minerality, but not so much the sourness displayed by most of the others; rather there are slight jammy accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich slightly greenish cherry plum fruit supported more by savory minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and soft, flowing into a slightly peppery dusky cherry plum finish. It's a bit softer than the norm, and if you like wines that have nice ripe but not excessively so savory fruit you will enjoy it, and indeed it will go quickly. If you're looking for something more aggressive it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Cantina di Custoza Bardolino Val di Molini 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with pigeon blood ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is richer than the base, with minerality and some jammy accents overshadowing some dusky accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are smooth, with a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly quick rather mineral finish. It's clearly made with care, but -- to my way of thinking -- the grapes ripened slightly overmuch, and as a result there is less acidity than I might have hoed for, and this makes it a little less lively and a little less interesting.
1 star

Giuseppe Campagnola Giuseppe Campagnola Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010 Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. More charged than some. The bouquet is dusky, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by some graphite shavings and some alcohol as well; there isn't that much acidity but there are some vegetal accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm burr, sea salt, and warm sour cherry acidity that gradually emerges and carries at length in the finish, which has a dry tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, lively but not tremendously aggressive, and ripe, and will drink well with meat based pasta dishes including stuffed pasta, simple grilled meats, and also has the acidity to work well with fried foods. In short, versatile. It made me think.
2 stars

Campostrini

Campostini Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with brambly berry fruit supported by sour accents and some sea salt minerality; it's bright and rather scrappy. On the palate it's fairly light, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slightly greenish tannins, while there is sea salt and minerality to provide depth, and it flows into a rather dusky sour cherry finish with some butter underpinning. Pleasant in a zesty key, and will drink well with fattier grilled meats (or even a rich cheeseburger), hearty pasta dishes, and also fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Canella

Canella Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale slightly orange ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is dusky, with underbrush and wet bark mingled with some sour berry fruit and some minerality. It gives an impression of coming together yet. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity that displays slight hints of stable straw, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's a little lighter than some, and also more aggressive, with bright acidity, and if you like the style it will work very well with simple grilled meats, including fattier things such as lamb chops or sausages, and also with fried meats and vegetables. A good cookout wine too, and in the proper situation it will be perfect.
2 stars

Cantina Caorsa

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish balsamic accents mingled with stable straw and considerable sea salt; it's a bit more rustic than some. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by minerality and sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly green and flow into a clean dusky finish with tannic vegetal -- almost artichoke petal -- overtones. It's fairly aggressive, and will work well with grilled meats, including fatter things such as lamb chops, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Pleasant in a rather aggressive key, and if you like the style the bottle will go quickly.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Classico Vintage 2010

Pale slightly cloudy (do they filter?) cherry ruby with lively reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly brambly, with greenish accents and some minerality mingled with graphite bitterness, but not so much fruit -- some cherry, supported by minerality and sea salt, but it's not intense at this stage. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense rather dusky cherry fruit supported more by minerality and brambly tannins than acidity, and this makes a little flatter than it might have otherwise been, while the finish is decidedly green, and dry. Because of this it will work well with fattier foods that beg something tannic to clear the palate between bites.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Classico Cà Vegar 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy slightly greenish cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sweetness and slight minerality; there's not much acidity and the fruit has a slightly cooked feel to it. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense lour cherry raspberry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by peppery tannins that flow into a fairly long peppery finish with some berry fruit, but not much. I found it flatter than many, and found myself wishing for greater brightness.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Rubens 2010
Lively pale cherry ruby with bright reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly slightly greenish acidity and slight berry fruit, though not that much; there is also slight eucalyptus and licorice root, and some sea salt. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by glancing tannins and by considerable sour currant and berry fruit acidity that flows into a long warm finish. It's fairly bright, and approachable, and will work nicely with simple meat based pasta dishes or light stews, and also simple grilled meats. It a wine to set out with food, and you can expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Casaretti

Casaretti Bardolino Classico 2010

Barrel sample
Pale ruby with black reflections and ruby highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by some slightly greenish acidity and sea salt, and by some dusky balsamic notes, with hints of barnyard tang as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by cherry currant acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth and have a slight greenish burr, flowing into a fairly long savory finish. It's promising, and if it continues to develop this way will be quite pleasant in a light, bright key.

Natale Castellani

Natale Castellani Bardolino Cà Dei Rotti 2010

Fairly rich cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some brambly cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slight menthol and underlying tartness. It's still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by savory notes and warm sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and rather soft, flowing into a fairly long tart finish. It's quite pleasant, in a somewhat softer key; there is all the acidity to provide life and zest, while the tannins aren't as aggressive as they are in some of the wines. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with hearty pasta dishes, grilled meats including fatter cuts such as lamb chops or sausages, and also with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Cavalchina

Cavalchina Bardolino 2010

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather aggressive in a rustic key, with some wet stable straw mingled with dusky underbrush and graphite shavings, while there is also some slightly pungent acidity. On the palate it's fairly light, with scrappy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that flow into a warm brambly finish that's fairly long, settling into very dry tannins. It's cheeky in an old style, and if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive and has some rustic overtones, you will enjoy it. In terms of accompaniments, simple grilled meats, light stews, and hearty pasta dishes sound about right.
2 stars

Gerardo Cesari

Gerardo Cesari Bardolino Classico 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby; it's one of the darkest of the day, with pigeon blood ruby reflections and cherry rim fading to pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by plum jam and some berry fruit acidity, and some underlying vegetal accents. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by tannins that are smooth enough, though they display a slight graphite burr, and by warm sour cherry acidity that continues into the finish as warmth, after the fruit and tannins have faded. It's a more powerful expression of Bardolino, and also a smoother one, with life from the acidity, while the tannins are not as brambly as they are in many, though they do have a dry burr. Because of their dryness it's a wine to drink with food that begs something to clear the palate between bites, e.g. a creamy meaty risotto or grilled lamb chops, and if you like the style, which is bright but not overly aggressive, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Renato Corradini

Renato Corradini Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by savory notes that bring bouillon cubes to mind, and by some alcohol. It's still coming together. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively -- more than I expected -- sour cherry fruit supported by red current acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish brambly burr and flow into a warm rather bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning that has slight hints of licorice root. It's pleasant in a fairly aggressive greenish key, and I would give the nose until summer to catch up with the palate; if you like the style it will work well with fattier grilled meats, or with fried meats and vegetables, or, if you'd rather, you could push it into service with fried fish. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Corte Fornello

Corte Fornello Bardolino Chiaretto 2010

Lively black cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and bitterness mingled with slight barnyard tang and some savory accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky brambly tannins that have balsamic overtones, and by moderately intense more mineral than fruit driven acidity, which flow into a sour rather brambly cherry finish. It's smoother and softer, or perhaps I should say not as brash ass some, and pleasant in a fairly rich fruit driven key; the nose needs a few months to come together, but if it follows the palate it will be quite pleasant in a middle of the road key.
2 stars

Corte Gardoni

Corte Gardoni Bardolino Le Fontane 2010

Pale orange ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though with more some berry fruit and some brambly accents emerge, supported by greenish vegetal notes and slight hints of balsamic barnyard tang. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and is supported by savory accents and tannins that are slightly greenish, and flow into a long warm savory tannic finish with bright sour berry fruit acidity. Quite pleasant in a bright zesty key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Corte Gioliare

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010

Fairly dark almandine ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy berry fruit mingled with cut flowers and hints of sweetness; it comes across as riper than some and as it opens some greenish accents also emerge. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky graphite bitterness and smooth sweet tannins, while there is some acidity, but not enough to make it stand up as mush as I'd have liked, and it flows into a moderately intense sour plum cherry finish.
1 star

Costadoro

Costadoro Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively slightly orange cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit laced with hints of orange and nutmeg spice, and with slight underbrush as well, and delicate sour berry fruit acidity. Pleasant though it is still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively cherry and currant acidity, and by tannins that have a slight greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean rather sour cherry finish with brambly underpinning. Graceful, and will drink very well with grilled meats, from burgers though lamb chops and sausages, and the rest of the fixings for a cookout, and will also be nice with fried foods. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Liviana Falconi

Liviana Falconi Bardolino 2010

Deep almandine ruby; it's a touch browner and oranger than some, with bright ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and unusual, with berry fruit mingled with savory notes and wet leather that I do9n't associate with Bardolino, and also with some greenish spice. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather flat, with frankly generic berry fruit supported by some mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, flowing into a greenish peppery finish; I'd have liked more depth and verve than I found.
1 star

F.lli Marchesini

F.lli Marchesini Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit laced with graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are rather brambly, with a burr that flows into a sour berry fruit finish with some greenish underpinnings.. The nose needs a few months to catch up with the palate ,at which point the wine will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and also with fired meats and vegetables. In other words, it will be versatile, and if you like bright zesty wines you will enjoy it.
2 stars

F.lli Zeni

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Vigne Alte 2010

Lively cherry ruby with bright ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal-laced red berry fruit supported by dusky graphite bitterness and some minerality, though what comes out more is the graphite, and by moderate alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents and by lively sour cherry acidity that again has bitter accents, and it flows into a fairly long warm spicy finish with underlying sour berry fruit. Pleasant in a zesty key, and will drink very well with foods, from succulent frilled ribs (seasoned with salt, sage and rosemary) though lamb chops, and fried meats as well.
2 stars

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Classico Zeni 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and warmth, and deft sour cherry and raspberry acidity. It's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight burr. It falters by comparison with the selezione, and I found it less interesting.
1 star

Frezza

Frezza Bardolino 2010
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections; it's darker than the norm. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetish vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and some squash rind. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderately intense sour cherry plum acidity that flows into a clean sour plum finish. It's a bit more settled than some of the others, and won't be as zesty, though if you prefer fairly direct fruit driven wines that are neither too ripe nor too aggressive, you will enjoy it.

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with floral accents -- roses -- mingled with red berry fruit and warm spice, and also with some greenish brambly accents and hints of squash rind. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. Freshness in a glass, and will drink very well with grilled meats and the o9ther fixings of a cookout, or with fried meats and vegetables, or even fried fish. Worth seeking out if you like this rather cheeky style, and it will go quickly.
2 stars

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with bright ruby reflections. The bouquet is pungent, with some wet stable straw mingled with pungent spice and graphite shavings with underlying alcohol; there's not as much fruit as in some. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with brighter than expected sour cherry fruit supported primarily by berry fruit acidity, thought here are some greenish tannins -- not too many -- and it flows into a warm greenish tannic finish. It's a bit wild, and the Italian word that comes to mind is acerbo, which means sour, and also underdeveloped (the word is often applied to girls who will be beautiful women in a few years). Because of its aggressive acidity it will work well with fattier foods, but it's a wine you should only choose if you like this character.
1 star

Girasole

Girasole Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly green -- not quite artichoke petals, but in that direction -- with brambles and some minerality and peppery spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by minerality and slight hints of sweetness more than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have a greenish cast, though not much of a burr. It's more settled than I might have liked, and relatively soft, with a lack of acidity.
1 star

Gruppo Italiano Vini

Santi Cà Bordenis Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is bright and rather green, with lively sour cherry acidity and squash rind mingled with slightly peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively minerality more than fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a warm peppery tannic finish. It's not quite as fruity as some, but does have pleasing minerality and if you like this in a wine it will work well with grilled meats and stews, and also do a nice job at a cookout. It's more particular than some and you have to like the style.
1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico Tacchetto 2010

Lively slightly orange cherry ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up vegetal accents and some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with considerable minerality and some peppery spice supporting moderate cherry plum fruit that gians roundness from very slight sweetness, and tannins that are brambly and lay a peppery burr over the tongue, flowing into a fairly long peppery finish. It's an angry young man, but promises nicely in a rather light skittish key, and will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews. I would expect it to begin to come into its own in fall 2011.
2 stars

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a tad rustic, with greenish balsamic accents and warmth mingled with some spice and peppery notes, but not much fruit. It comes across as feisty. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by balsamic warmth and tannins that have warm greenish accents, and flow into a rather sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a fairly aggressive traditional key and will drink well with grilled or fried meats. You have to like the style to enjoy it; if you like wines with richer fruit it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Il Pignetto

Il Pignetto Bardolino 2010

Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy greenish cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some vegetal accents, also slight bramble and peppery spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by moderate bitterness and peppery spice, and moderate acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and flow into a peppery finish. It's a bit lax, but this can happen in a barrel sample, and it may clean up nicely.

La Cà

La Cà Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy rather vegetal berry fruit supported by some tobacco and underbrush, while there are also metallic accents, in the direction of hot iron. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are soft and smooth, and have slight leathery accents, and flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish with lasting sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and, as the acidity fades, dry tannins. It's a trifle lax, but pleasant enough, and will drink well with grilled or fired meats
1 star

La Rocca

La Rocca Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by some wet stable straw, and also by some sea salt. On the palate it's brighter than I had expected, with lively lour cherry fruit supported by cherry and red cranberry acidity, while the tannins are light and fairly smooth, flowing into a clean sour cherry finish with lasting warmth and dusky underlying bitterness. It's fairly aggressive, in a greenish key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, especially fattier cuts, or fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Le Fraghe

Le Fraghe Bardolino Le Fraghe 2010

Fairly deep cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with scalded milk mingling with berry fruit and peppery spice, and some greenish licorice root as well. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by bitterness and graphite shavings more than acidity, and by rather blocky tannins that flow into a tongue curling dry tannic finish. Too much tannin, for me, and not enough brightness, nor fruit.
1 star

Le Ginestre

Le Ginestre Bardolino Classico Mondragon 2010

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with orange accents and brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and slightly unusual, with rich berry fruit and sandalwood spice laced with sweetness that brings to mind a Moscato di Scanzo; and with more swishing some peppery spice as well. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. It's atypical, with a degree of roundness that the others lack and sandalwood notes that I associate more with Valpolicella than Bardolino, while there is also a slight degree of sweetness, just enough to confer additional roundness. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's a bit particular in terms of Bardolino.


Le Muraglie

Le Muraglie Bardolino Vicentini 2010

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and violets mingling with some greenish spice and jammy berry fruit, with hints of licorice root as well. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with soft plum cherry fruit that gains richness from some sandalwood, and is supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish with sweet notes that have hints of candied orange peel to them, while the finish, before the fruit fades, brings to mind bubble gum in its sweetness. It's particular, and considerably less aggressive than the majority of the wines presented. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. It is not what I would consider to be a classic Bardolino.
1 star

Le Tende

Le Tende Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wet leaves and spice with slight animal tang -- it needs a few more months to come together. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm red currant acidity that isn't particularly biting, and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a warm rather green finish. It's have liked a little more verve to it, because it comes across as rather settled, and lacking in brightness.
1 star

Le Vigne di San Pietro

Le Vigne di San Pietro Bardolino 2010

Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with slight ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some wet pepper -- an effect of recent bottling -- and slight scalded milk. It's still out of sorts. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that are quite blocky and flow into a decidedly bitter tannic finish. It's lacking in life and verve, and wants acidity too.


Lenotti

Lenotti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Barrel sample
Pale orange ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is muted, with some peppery spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do reveal a splintery burr in the finish. Promising, and will drink nicely with grilled meats, light stews, and also pasta dishes and risotti, while it has sufficient acidity to work well with fried foods too.

Marcello Marchesini

Marcello Marchesini Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with berry fruit supported by some licorice root and hints of sweetness, while there are also some jammy accents and the heather from a cut field. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a rather quick greenish tannic finish. It's still coming together on the palate too, and will pe rather delicate in a sour fruit key in a few months' time, though we're not there yet. Something to think about if you like tart fruit but don't want a really aggressive wine, and it will drink well with simple pasta dishes or light stews.
1 star

Meneghello

Meneghello Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010

Pale ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by squash rind greenness, and by some spice, while there are also some mentholated accents and hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by moderately intense tannins that flow into a rather sweet moderately tart cherry finish with candied cherry overtones and some bitterness. It's still coming together, and will be riper and rounder than some; if you like the style, which is soft and fairly ripe, it will work well with red meats, but if you prefer zestier wines with more verve you will find it lacking.
1 star

Monte dei Roari

Bardolino Monte dei Roari 2010

Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with forest berry fruit supported by brambly berry fruit acidity and by some greenish slightly mentholated accents, and slight wood smoke too. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by delicate sour berry fruit acidity and by a certain minerality, while the tannins are moderately intense, and have a fairly splintery burr, glowing into a bright finish. It's fairly delicate, and the fruit is pleasant, so I would have hopes for it, though it does need some time.

Monte del Frà

Monte del Frà Bardolino 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, while there are also hints of sweetness and some sandalwood. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit that starts out sweet, and is then joined by lively sour cherry raspberry acidity that carries into a fairly ling bright finish, while the tannins are smooth and fairly soft. It's pleasant, in a smooth cheeky way that brings a teen to mind, and will drink well with hearty pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews. Chicken pot pie comes to mind for some reason.
2 stars

Monte Oliveto

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively greenish cherry fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and sea salt, with a fair amount of warmth as well. It seems peppy. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by deft light tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It's lively, with nice verve, but not tremendously aggressive, and as it ages over the next few months it will also, I think, become rather graceful in a light bright key. It will be quite nice with meaty risotti, hearty pasta dishes, legumes, and light stews or grilled meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Monte Zovo

Monte Zovo Bardolino 2010

Pale ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather green, with cherry fruit supported by jammy sweetness and some sandalwood, and also by pleasing spice. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant fairly rich cherry and strawberry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity and some sea salt, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with lasting cherry strawberry acidity supported by some vegetal accents. It's rather graceful in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Lorenzo Morando

Lorenzo Morando Bardolino 2010

Lively orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is bright, with sandalwood laced sour cherry fruit supported by spice and some alcohol, and by sea salt as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight greenish burr, and by moderately intense acidity that flows into a warm sour cherry finish. Quick to write, but pleasant in a rather graceful middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with first course dishes or meats and vegetables, and be quite versatile. A second bottle will likely come in handy.
2 stars

Albino Piona

Albino Piona Bardolino Chiaretto 2010

Lively pale orange ruby with bright ruby reflections. The bouquet is intense, and a bit wilder than many, with berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and some stable straw, while there are also sea salt and some pungent undertones, and as it opens, scalded milk. On the palate it's sweeter and smoother than I expected, with fairly rich, fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by warm savory balsamic acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a spicy greenish finish with underlying fruit; there is moderate acidity, which carries through and becomes more apparent in the finish, but I found it a little lax. If you like smoother softer wines that are ripe but not overripe, and do have some acidity you will like it, but if you prefer the more old-style, more aggressive Bardolino it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Giorgio Poggi

Giorgio Poggi Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale slightly orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with some shellac and sandalwood with peppery spice and moderately intense our berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by some mineral acidity and some sea salt, and by tannins that are still rather blocky, flowing into a blocky tannic finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will be pleasantly versatile, working well with fist course dishes form legume based soups, pasta, and risotto though simple grilled meats and light stews, and also has (barely) enough acidity to work with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Raval

Raval Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with lively sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents with slight sandalwood as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by slight peppery spice, fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that flow into a clean fresh greenish cherry finish with some underlying sandalwood spice. Nice balance and pleasant in a rather zesty key, and will drink nicely with hearty first course soups, pasta dishes and risotti, and will also work well with simple grilled meats or fried meats, and with fairly rich stews. In short, versatile, and you will likely want a second bottle.
2 stars

Dante Righetti

Dante Righetti Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by some sandalwood and warm peppery spice with slight greenish accents as well, and some sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich decidedly greenish cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and some sea salt, and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a warm rather green finish with tannic underpinning. I'd have liked a little more verve and life to the fruit, which isn't settled but doesn't display tremendous drive either.
1 star

Enzo Righetti

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Classico 2010

Deep cherry ruby with muted ruby reflections (was it filtered?) and pink rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly jammy, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by fairly intense sweetness and some greenish vegetal and sandalwood accents, and slight chalk as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively ripe cherry fruit supported by a degree of sweetness and fairly intense peppery spice, while there is also moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that are smooth and fairly bitter, and lead into a fairly bright berry fruit finish with some berry fruit acidity to provide direction. It's pleasant in a zesty, riper key than many, with bright fruit and bright acidity that stand up to the slight sweetness that comes with ripeness, and if you like the style, which is rather luscious, it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary for fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Ronca

Ronca Bardolino Erre 2010

Pale orange ruby with bright cherry ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and hints of petroleum that are rather unusual, and by some dusky greenish spice with hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported more by bitterness than by berry fruit acidity, though there is some of that too, and it flows into a rather bitter finish with moderately intense berry fruit acidity and a brambly tannic burr. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, with nicely balanced acidity that is present but not really aggressive, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

San Zeno

San Zeno Bardolino Classico 2010

Lively orange ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents mingled with some pungent notes and moderately intense, fairly ripe berry fruit; there are also slight sandalwood accents and it's clearly still quite young. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe though not overripe, with moderately intense cherry forest berry fruit that starts out smooth and fairly sweet, and gradually displays warm berry fruit acidity with considerable sea salt that supports with the assistance of smooth tannins, and flows into a fairly long tart berry fruit finish. It's rather graceful in a ripe fruit driven key, and will work well with simple grilled meats (and the other fixings of a cookout), light stews, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Sartori

Sartori Bardolino Chiaretto 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and pink rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some fresh cherry fruit mingled with wild strawberries and some greenish sandalwood accents with pleasant spice as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with scrappier than expected berry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a sandalwood green burr and flow into a rather warm dry tannic finish with some bitter accents too. It's more aggressive than I had expected, and also drier on the palate; if you like the style, which is distinctly tannic, it will work well with grilled meats, light stews, and fried meats and vegetables. But you have to like the style.
1 star

Tamburino Sardo

Tamburino Sardo Bardolino Chiaretto 2010

Lively ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit supported by moderately intense spice and some greenish vegetal accents, with some sweetish accents as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly smooth, while there is also some sea salt that adds depth and brightness, while the finish is warm and fruit laced, with some tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a luscious fruit driven middle of the road key, and will be quite versatile; if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter wines with a little more acidic drive, it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Giovanna Tantini

Giovanna Tantini Bardolino 2009

Almandine ruby with ruby reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather exotic, with quinine and berry fruit that bring to mind a Barolo Chinato much more than a Bardolino; it's powerful and though there isn't the sweetness of the Barolo, there is the quinine. On the palate it's ample, with moderate sweetness and bitter quinine-laced berry fruit that is supported by slight berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly soft. It breaks with the field, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.
1 star

Tenuta La Presa

Tenuta La Presa Bardolino 2010

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry prune fruit supported by slight greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by some candied cherry sweetness, which carries on the one hand, conferring roundness, while on the other there is bright sour cherry acidity supported by tannins that have a brambly burr, and flow into a warm quite tart finish. It's fairly aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; in terms of accompaniments it will work well with grilled meats, including lamb chops or very rich burgers, and also with fried meats and vegetables. If you prefer smoother more polished wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Tenuta San Leone

Tenuta San Leone Bardolino Colle Morar 2010

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby -- one of the darkest -- with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fresh and floral with some chalky accents and a rush of ripe berries. Disjointed but promising in a ripe key. On the palate it's quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by sweet tannins that have a slight brambly burr, while there are also candied cherry accents that carry though from start into the finish. I'm not sure how they managed to get this much ripeness out of the cool, rainy 2010 summer but they did, and if you like this rich, ripe, fruit driven style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which was, for me, too ripe and too sweet.

Tinazzi

Tinazzi Bardolino Classico Cà dei Rocchi Pieve San Vito 2010

Deep almandine cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim - it looks older than the others. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sandalwood and pleasant spice. On the palate it's ample and rich, with jammy slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice that flow into a clean spicy finish. It feels bigger than a Bardolino, not quite as far as a Valpolicella, but somewhere in between, and also has balsamic notes and warmth that make it stand out. In terms of accompaniments it will work well with roasts or stews, but you have to be expecting something bigger than your average Bardolino.
2 stars

Tre Colline

Tre Colline Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rather mineral, with dusky graphite shavings mingled with some berry fruit and sea salt. It's still coming together, but promises well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry and red currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a deft berry fruit finish with slightly greenish sour cherry acidity underpinning. Graceful, and will drink quite nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style, which is bright but not brash, it's worth seeking out.
2 stars

Valletti

Valletti Bardolino Classico 2010

Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, in a brambly key with lively sour cherry acidity mingled with some greenish sandalwood vegetal accents and some peppery spice. On the palate it's bright, with fresh rather lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by lively rather savory berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and peppery and flow into a clean spicy finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct, lively key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Vigneti Villabella

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Classico Vigna Morlongo 2010

Lively orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich cherry fruit supported by some sandalwood accents and slight jammy sweetness, while there is also some heather from a cut field. Nice depth and balance. On the palate it's rich, with bright fruit that's riper and sweeter than I expected, though still very much cherry, and supported by bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fairly tart finish with some peppery accents. Pleasant, and will work very well with foods, ranging from hearty first course pasta dishes and risotti though simple grilled meats and light stews. Enjoyable, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

Zenato

Zenato Bardolino 2010

Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by jammy notes and some sandalwood. On the palate it's fairly rich,a nd fairly sweet, though not overripe, with rich cherry fruit supported by some jammy sweetness and by tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness tot hem, while the acidity is more mineral than fruit driven, and there is some sea salt that provides depth, while the fish is bright and cherry laced. It's quite approachable, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will work well with hearty pasta dishes. A solid wine, and you can expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

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