Almost at Vinitaly: Cà Russin

I have known Bruna Ferro for a number of years -- in 2003 I was one of the journalists assigned to visit her at Carussin during Barbera Meeting. Her husband Luigi and I sweated through the vineyards on a vintage jeep, and when we got back to the winery discovered it was well over 100 F -- late in the afternoon, and (if I remember right) not yet June.

Following our meeting I made a point of visiting her every year at Vinitaly, and was rather upset to discover she wasn't present this year. But she wasn't far: She was in the Vicentino, at Vin nature, a presentation of natural wines held in an elegant villa in the Vicentino, Unfortunately, it was hot enough that the shuttle bus from Veronafiere was excruciating. So upon arriving, after downing a bottle of water I went looking for a beer, and that led me to Bruna, because her son makes several top quality craft beers. After slaking my thirst I turned to the wines, preferring to concentrate upon wines in bottle rather than cask samples.

Cà Russin La Tranquilla Barbera D'Asti 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is vinous, with jammy notes and some greenish accents supported by heather, spice and moderate acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, with deft sour cherry fruit supported by bright savory acidity and sea salt, while there is also moderately intense more mineral than fruit derived acidity that flows into a clean fresh sour cherry finish with some brandied accents. It feels like it was from a hot vintage, and will drink well with roasts or grilled meats.
2 stars

Cà Russin Ferro Carlo Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2007
This is named after Bruna's father, and ages in a 70-30 mix of barriques and botti. It's deep black cherry ruby with ruby rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with jammy berry fruit supported by bramble and cedar, and some greenish vegetal accents. Pleasant in a concentrated, well oaked key; it gives an impression of substantiality. On the palate it's full and polished with almost dusky berry fruit supported by cleans sour cherry acidity and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a clean cedar-laced finish. Pleasant in a rich rather dusky brooding key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts. Ponderous.
2 stars

Cà Russin Lia Vì 2010
This is a barrel sample; ruby with fresh fruit, violets and berry fruit laced with tartness and quite fresh. On the palate it's a lark of a wine, with bright fresh berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet light tannins. It will go very fast and be the ideal wine for a cookout

Cà Russin Asinoi Barbera d'Asti 2010
Another barrel sample; it's deep violet with violet rim and has a fresh bouquet with red berry fruit and some violets. On the palate it's bright with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and savory notes, which flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Another wine to drink by the bucket, but not as brash or as tart as Lia Vì. If you like light wines with a little more polish you will like it very much.