A few weeks ago I talked with Filippo Bartolotta, who mentioned that he was organizing a visit to Chianti for a group of New York wine writers, and asked if I wanted to join in. I was unable to, but did accept his invitation to taste a selection of Chainti Colli Senesi in the Enoteca Italiana, which is located in the Fortezza Medicea overlooking Siena.
Chianti was once a geographic term for the region between Florence and Siena, and also to the wine made in the area. The geographic term still holds, but thanks to savvy marketers of the early 1900s, who realized the word "Chianti" helped sell wines and therefore slapped it on anything made in (roughly) central Tuscany, the wine term has, shall we say, expanded, gaining nuanced flavors with time.
What was once simply called Chianti is now called Chianti Classico to indicate it comes from (roughly) the original Chianti area. Everything else over a vast area that extends from the Colline Pisane to below Montalcino (far south of Siena), to Arezzo, and to north of Florence was simply called Chianti. However the area is too big to be manageable, and as a result a number of Chianti subzones have been established, to allow the winemakers of the respective areas to tie their best wines more closely to their land, while (if they want) labeling their base wines Chianti, which is now something of a catchall.
As one might guess, Chianti Colli Senesi is the Sienese subzone of the Chianti appellation, though calling it a subzone is not quite correct. The Province of Siena, like most of Tuscany, is geologically complex, and there are broad swaths of territory that do quite well as grain fields but are not particularly suitable for vineyards. Therefore the Chianti Colli Senesi zone is actually three fairly large islands (for want of a better term) of viticulturally suitable land separated by the swaths of grain.
One of these islands is north of Siena, bordering the Chianti Classico zone and extending via Monteriggioni and Poggibonsi to San Gimignano. The other two are south, one in the western part of the Provice, from Murlo to Montalcino, and the other in the eastern part, from Sinalunga and Trequanda past Montepulciano and all the way to the border with Umbria.
Given the extent of the appellation, one cannot really expect continuity of terroir, and indeed differences in terroir do result in differences in the wines. In addition, as is the case with the other Chianti appellations, winemakers have a fairly free hand when it comes to the grapes they use: The Disciplinare says the wine must be made from at least 75% Sangiovese (it can be up to 100% Sangiovese), and can contain up to 25% uva complimentari, which can also include the traditional white grapes now prohibited in Chianti Classico, and also international varietals, with a provision that Cabernet (Franc, Sauvignon or both together) not exceed 10%. Winemakers are free to age the Vino D'annata, which is released the year following the harvest, as they prefer. The Riserva, released 2 years after the harvest, must instead spend at least 8 months in wood (small barrels, large casks, or a combination of the two as the winemaker prefers) and 4 months in bottle.
Having said this, I did not a certain stylistic similarity in the 30-odd Chianti Colli Senesi wines Filippo assembled. Taken as a group, they are slightly lighter than the equivalent Chianti Classicos (Vini d'annata and Riserve) might be, and while not necessarily more agile, less demanding. This is especially true of the Riserve. In other words they're wines to set out and drink with the meal, and since that's what I think wine drinking should be about I found many of them eminently successful, and much enjoyed them. Would have enjoyed them more with a plate of pasta al sugo (with meat sauce), but one can't have everything in a tasting :-/
The Wines, in the Order Tasted
Casale Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 1999
Deep brick ruby with some almandine accents. The bouquet is vinous with warm balsamic accents and some leaf tobacco mingled with wet leaves and sour berry fruit, also balsamic acidity with decidedly leafy undertones. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth silky tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a silky finish. Impressive, and proof that Chianti doesn't really end at the borders of the Chianti Classico region. The sort of wine one doesn't pour out at a tasting.
92
La Vigna Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2006
Deep brick ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly candied cherry fruit supported by some bramble and underlying minerality with some herbal accents too. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brambly greenish accents and tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a clean rather bitter greenish finish with some leafy underpinnings that rather long. It's interesting, and pleasant to drink in a rather scrappy key; I generally expect more fullness in Riserve, and the tannins here are such that it's not a wine to drink far from the table, but it will drink quite well with grilled meats or hearty roasts.
2 stars
Montalpruno Il Canto del Leccio Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy brambly berry fruit supported by some menthol and slight metallic hints. Bright and fresh, revolving more around bramble than fruit. On the palate it's fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by some cedary accents and slight hazelnut warmth. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods -- it's scrappy enough that it won't drink well by itself, but will work very well with red meats.
2 stars
Montenidoli Il Garrulo Chianti Colli Senesi 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is brambly with cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice. Zesty and nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that do have a slight burr, and by greenish acidity that flows into a warm sour cherry finish with brambly vegetal underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods. A wine that will drink very well with foods, and you will want more of.
88-90
Casa alle Vacche Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2008
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with bright floral accents that are a little more than I would have expected from a 2008, but pleasant, and supported by spice and deft oak as well. Pleasant in an international key, and opulent. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a distinct cedary underpinning, and flows into a warm cedar laced finish. It's still a little young, but pleasant in a soft seductive key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. If you prefer wines with less oak, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim -- it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry and slight candied cherry accents mingled with some menthol and slight gum Arabic as well. A bit blocky, and gives an impression of more power than definition. On the palate it's bright, with fresh warm cherry fruit supported by more acidity than I expected from the nose, and by tannins that are smooth and soft, with a slight burr that provides definition. The nose needs a little time to catch up with the palate, but it does display pleasing grace, and will work very well with food. It surprised me.
2 stars
Il Poggiolo Federico Bonfio Chianti Colli Senesi 2004
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly notes, some greenish accents and Mediterranean scrub forest, mingled with peppery spice and deft cherry fruit. Austere, and takes its distance from us, but has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are brambly and slightly greenish, and supported by pleasant brambly acidity that flows into a long tart finish. It's pleasant in a rather scrappy key, and will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts; it's quiet approachable in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy overtones. A pleasant surprise for me.
88-90
Tenuta Bichi Borghesi Coppiòle Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is a bit musty, with berry fruit mingled with some wet leaves and some camphor with yellow peaches, which can occur in red wines too. It's not quite as clean as I might have hoped. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright cherry fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr, and flow into a rather dry tannic finish with lasting bitterness. I'd have liked a little more definition and richness to the fruit.
1 star
Poggio Orlando Il Ciliegio Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly brambly with greenish accents and some grilled more friarelli than bell pepper and some wet paper. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by brambly greenish tannins that have a pronounced rather dry burr, and flow into a long decidedly tannic finish. It's quite dry, and is a wine that will work well with foods, if you like this style. If you like smoother fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Cercignano Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly notes and some vegetal accents and some spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by alcohol and warmth, and by bright acidity and tannins that have a greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean bright finish with lasting sour cherry and raspberry acidity. Zesty and will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and will age well for a number of years; the nose needs another year to come together.
2 stars
La Castellaccia Il Fosco Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2008
Almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some sandalwood, and by some vegetal accents. Quite pleasant in a spicy modern key. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by greenish tannins that have a cedary underpinning that flows into lasting bitterness. I'd have liked a little more definition and richness to the fruit, which is more brambly than really ripe.
1 star
Borgo Santinovo Tardivo Chianti Colli Senesi 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and spice, in particular cumin and sea salt Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by lemony acidity and tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly tart sour berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a slightly scrappy fairly traditional key, and will work quite well with foods, in particular, grilled meats or roasts. It would be perfect with a grigliata mista, mixed grilled meats.
2 stars
Terre di Nano Chianti Colli Senesi 2007
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is light, with brambly accents and some vegetal notes, supported by spice and alcohol. Not much fruit, but there is sea salt and pepper. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that are slightly greenish and have a bright burr, and flow into a rather tannic finish with bitter underpinning.. A scrappy food wine that will support what it's served with, without demanding center stage.
1 star
Consorzio Agrario Siena Chianti Colli Senesi 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit mingled with some minerality and some graphite shavings with hints of white mushrooms as well, and some spice. On the palate it's light and fairly direct, with tart berry fruit supported by tannins that are rather light, smooth, and bitter, and flow into a clean bitter finish. Direct and up front, it's a food wine that will support what it's served with, without hogging the limelight.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Allegretti Chianti Colli Senesi 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and clean greenish spice, in particular cumin and hints of mace, and also some menthol Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight burr and bright sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rather tannic finish with dry peppery accents. Quite drinkable, and will work well with foods.
2 stars
Monte Chiaro Chianti Colli Senesi 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and fairly vegetal, with spice and some graphite shaving mingled with savory notes and underlying red berry fruit, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate fairly mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, and flow into a rather mineral finish. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit.
1 star
Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by bramble and spice with some greenish vegetal accents and some underlying sea salt and warmth, also some alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish brambly tannins and bright mineral acidity that flow into a fairly long bitter finish with a rough peppery burr. The Italian would be Ruvido, or Scrappy, and it will drink very well with grilled meats or fried foods, also with pasta dishes. In short, Versatile.
2 stars
Azienda Agricola Cercignano Chianti Colli Senesi 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The nose is frankly rustic, with wet stable straw and balsamic nose supported by penetrating rather balsamic acidity and some metallic accents. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with bright sour berry fruit supported by considerable acidity and some hazelnut accents, and by tannins that have a peppery burr that continues at length. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like fairly rustic wines that have some bite to them.
1 star
Montalpruno Le Fontanelle Chianti Colli Senesi 2009 Lively black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with vegetal accents and alcohol mingled with some greenish notes and sea salt, and underlying red berry fruit. Bright, and gives an impression of lightness. On the palate it's bright, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by graphite bitterness and alcoholic warmth that flow into a fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. It's a classic food wine, one that one can set out and will go quickly, and pleasant in a direct up front sort of way. Brash.
1 star
Bindi Sergardi Chianti Colli Senesi 2009
Lively cherry ruby with bright reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal notes and brambles supported by red berry fruit and some spice, supported by a fair amount of alcohol as well. Fresh. On the palate it's bright, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and tannins that are smooth, though they do have a slight greenish burr that is both youthful and helps provide definition. Pleasant, in a bright fresh key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried foods. Will go quickly.
2 stars
Il Colombano San Cirino Chianti Colli Senesi 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with moderate berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some cedar, and by spice and alcohol as well. There may be fruit, but it's covered by the other elements. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that have a milky feel to them that is likely wood fruit interaction, and flow into a rather bitter finish with lasting acidic warmth.
1 star
San Giorgio a Lapi Chianti Colli Senesi 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with berry fruit supported by some greenish accents that bring to mind bean shells (from cannelloni beans) and some spice as well. Pleasant in a fresh lively key. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by acidity and considerable warmth, while the tannins are ample and smooth but not quite as well defined as I might have liked them to be. It's a bit soft.
1 star
Azienda Agricola Fornaci di Sotto Chianti Colli Senesi 2009
Deep slightly violet cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with nutmeg and ceda rmingled with some brambles and vegetal accents, also some incense and hints of beeswax. A bit unusual. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with moderately intense fruit supported by savory minerality that carries the wine, and flow sinto a savory rather peppery finish while the tannins contribute a lengthy burr to the mix. Quite direct, and will drink well with simple foods.
1 star
Terre alle Tolfe Il Castro di Tolfis Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit supported by pleasant greenish vegetal accents and spice, with some graphite shavings and pleasant brambly notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some dusky notes in the tannins, which flow into lasting warmth. Tart in a rather cheeky key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars
Rubicini Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with red berry fruit supported by brambly vegetal accents and spice, and by the heather of a Tuscan field in summer. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and peppery spice that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Quite direct, and will work well with simple foods. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star
Poggio Orlando Il Ciliegio Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit supported by some savory accents and slight berry fruit spice, with some alcoholic warmth as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, flowing into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a light scrappy key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats -- lamb chops come to mid -- or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to balance fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars
Geografico Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with chewy cherry fruit that has slight candied cherry overtones, and is supported by greenish vegetal accents and moderate spice, with some menthol too. Fresh, in a slightly riper key. On the palate it's smooth and quite soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains definition from moderate berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that are quite round and quite smooth. It's more approachable than some, and the sort of wine one could drink by the glass at a wine bar, but doesn't have as much of a tannic bite to it as many of the Chianti Colli Senesi wines tasted. If you like this softer smoother key you will enjoy it considerably, but if you prefer a little more backbone you may find it wanting. The Italian that comes to mind is ruffiano, ingratiating.
2 stars
Villa Poggio Salvi Caspagnolo Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Lively cherry ruby with violet accents and white rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with lively vegetal and mentholated accents mingled with berry fruit and heather. Quite approachable in a fresh young key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity that has some greenish accents, and by tannins that have a slight peppery burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant and quite approachable; it will work very well with foods, supporting without demanding attention, and will go quickly. Expect to want a second bottle.
2 stars
Tufo del Gruccione (a kind of bird, and the label has a stylized bird) Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with berry fruit and mentholated spice with some brambly accents. On the palate it's up front, with bright cherry fruit that is supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and slight tannins that flow into a finish that gains slightly cooked berry fruit overtones as the other elements fade. Quite simple, a wine that one puts out and drinks. The Italian descriptor would be Beverino, quaffing. A touch more tannic bitterness and a touch less fruit than the Geografico. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star
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