The 2007 Barolo: Wines from La Morra and Monforte

This year Nebbiolo Prima began with the 2008 Roero, followed by the 2008 Barbaresco and the 2007 Barolo; there were also a few Barbaresco Riservas, and on the last day a number of 2005 Barolo Riserva wines. The afternoons were structured somewhat differently, with Monday afternoon dedicated to the 2001 vintage, a retrospective if you will, Tuesday and Thursday dedicated to winery visits and tastings, Wednesday free (and I did take advantage of that), and Friday an optional visit to Diano and Dogliani to taste Dolcetto di Diano and Dolcetto di Dogliani/Dogliani.

A full week, but both pleasant and profitable, and I learned quite a bit during the afternoon sessions, while the mornings were profitable as always.

To begin, a couple of words on the vintage.

With Barolo we had the 2007 vintage, which is more approachable than the 2006 we tasted last year, with many of the wines richer, more opulent, and readier to drink. This said, as vintages go it's not as good as the 2006, and though the bottles will work better in the short term (3-5 years and perhaps a little longer) the 2006 has, I think, much better potential for long-term ageing. This is not a bad thing; I found many 2007 wines that will be quite pleasant with foods (not as much in the way of meditation wines), and vintages that mature sooner are necessary, because they give us something to enjoy while we await the vintages that need time.

Looking specifically at La Morra and Monforte, overall I found the wines from La Morra to be better balanced and display greater elegance than those of Monforte, though as is always the case there is considerable variation and the style of the winemaker also comes into play.

A final practical point: I took a terrific volume of notes in the course of the five days of Nebbiolo Prima. To put everything up at once would be unthinkable, and putting up all of the Barolo notes together would be awkward. So I will be posting Roero, Barbaresco, and then Barolo by Comune, in the space of several posts. The wines are listed in the order they were poured, which within the Communes is by vineyard. Therefore if a winery has more than one vineyard, its wines will be separate.

Wines From La Morra Francone Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is bright, with lively vegetal accents and greenish spice supporting brambly sour berry fruit. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly rich and flow into a smooth slightly bitter tannic finish. Pleasant in a rich bracing key, with considerable power and considerable youth; it's drinkable but will also age very well.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso Ciabot Manzoni Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with a fair amount of cedar supported by greenish bitter accents and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has a dusky cast, and by tannins that are cedar laced and flow into a fairly dry tannic finish. Pleasant in an international key, and very young; it needs another year for the nose to develop and the tannins to fold in; I would expect it to age well for a decade or more thereafter.
2 stars

I Bastioni I Bastioni Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich floral accents, violets and rosa canina with some leaf tobacco and slight sea salt, and underlying berry fruit. Nice balance and rather graceful. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky leathery component, and flow into a dusky finish with berry fruit and alcohol laced with cedar. Pleasant in a young muscular key, and quite young; I would give the wine a couple of years for the tannins to fall into place.
2 stars

Tenuta L'Illuminata Tebavio Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit supported by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity and some leather, with slight cedary accents. Quite fresh, and a lot going on. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly rich berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Very young, and with the brashness of youth, but will clean up nicely in the space of a couple of years, and age well for a decade or more thereafter.
2 stars

Rambaldi Vladimiro Il Lauro Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense and greenish, with pronounced vegetal accents and supported by violets, spice, nutmeg in particular, and sour cherry fruit. Quite young, but displays pleasingly bracing vigor. On the palate it's a bit soften than I expected from the nose, with ample bright sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and somewhat blocky, with a youthful cedary burr (new large wood?) and flow into a long sour berry fruit finish. It's a bit behind, and needs a year for the tannins to smooth and fold in, at which point it will be pleasant in a middle of the road key.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is extreme, with balsamic acidity and savoriness that brings bouillon to mind supported by some sour berry fruit and some sea salt. On the palate it's languid, with tobacco laced sour cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long balsam-laced sour berry fruit finish. It's particular, in a very traditional but not rustic key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. But you have to like the style; if you're of more modern persuasions it simply won't work for you. It speaks across time, and if you want to talk it's interesting.
2 stars

Ciabot Berton Ciabot Berton Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with green leather and spice supporting leaf tobacco and berry fruit, and some dusky bitter accents and slight animal tang that adds depth, while there is also some black pepper. On the palate it's ample and smooth with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are rather blocky and a bit drier than I expected, laying a veneer over the tongue and flowing into a fairly dry tannic finish. It's a little flatter than I expected, with the fruit not quite as rich, while the tannins are still out of whack; it needs at least a year for them to settle in.
2 stars

Vigneti Luigi Oddero e Figli Barolo DOCG 2007

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to leathery orange. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with spice and wet green leather mingled with greenish accents and spice, and also sea salt, while there is also some berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and languid, with moderately intense fairly generic plum berry fruit that has some sweetness related likely to alcohol, and is supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a fairly bitter tannic finish with mineral underpinning. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit, which is a bit flat, while the tannins are at present strident. It needs at least a year for the tannins to fold in, but the fruit will never gain brightness nor acidity.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Mario Marengo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and savory accents with some alcohol; not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests on the outset, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that gamely battles past cedar laced tannins to express itself, and though the tannins do manage to draw it back the acidity remains, and flows into a warm cedar-laced tannic finish with a sour berry fruit underpinning. It's pleasant though something of a work in progress, and will be nice in an international key when it has absorbed the tannins, in a year or two. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but give it time because at present it's unfinished.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Crissante Alessandria Galina Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum-laced berry fruit supported by spice and vegetal notes that have some hints of Sichuan preserved vegetable to them, with a fair amount of alcohol and some mineral acidity. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit laced with leaf tobacco and mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and supported by tannins that have a dry splintery burr and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's heavily oaked, perhaps too heavily for the fruit, though time will tell; I would give it a couple of years for the tannins to fold in and smooth, because at present they're simply too strong.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Mario Gagliasso Torriglione Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to leathery orange. The bouquet is rich, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal notes and fairly intense alcohol, and also some leaf tobacco and slight rosa canina. On the palate it's fairly bright, with rich rather dusky cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and some bitterness, and by tannins that are warm and have a greenish tinge to them, combined with alcoholic warmth and sweetness that carries into the finish, which also ahs slight cedar accents. It's powerful, and very young, a muscular wine that needs another couple of years to come together. If you're looking for finesse it's not here now, though what it does bring to the table will work very well with a steak.
2 stars

San Biagio Rocchettevino Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is languid, with sweet mentholated plum fruit supported by greenish accents and wet leather with some Sichuan preserved vegetable as well. Enticing. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by alcoholic sweetness and moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins are broad and quite smooth, with slight savory accents, and flow into a clean savory finish with spicy savory more than tannic underpinning. It's riper than I expected, and also a bit flatter; more acidity would have been nice because its lack translates into a settled feel.
1 star

Eraldo Viberti Rocchettevino Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and fairly orange rim. Looks older than 2007. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory notes and slightly jammy berry fruit supported by nutmeg and some rosa canina, with slight hints of jam as well. On the palate it's fairly rich on the outset, with bright slightly mineral sour cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and massive, with some leaf tobacco and cedar overtones, and gradually eclipse the fruit, leading into a tannic finish with mineral acidity and some sweetness from alcohol. The nose was promising but I'd have liked more verve and depth from the palate, where the tannins run the show.
1 star

Renato Ratti Conca Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a mixture of greenish herbals accents notes and chalk that brings to mind the finger paints I had as a child, and peppery spice with savory overtones; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and surprisingly minty with some other herbs as well -- a touch of oregano -- mingled with berry fruit and supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's a bit unusual, but also quite young; the tannins need another year at least to smooth and come together.
2 stars

Cascina Ballarin Bricco Rocca Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense and vinous, with rich cherry fruit supported by balsam-laced spice and acidity that tingles the nose. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by savory cherry fruit acidity and tannins that are ample and have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's a touch light, though this is also youth, because the tannins have yet to integrate and support convincingly; but pleasant in a rather cheeky fruit driven key. I'd give it a year to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for 10-15 years thereafter.
2 stars

Ciabot Berton Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum berry fruit supported by rosa canina and wet leather, and pleasant savory spice with a warm balsamic underpinning as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright ripe cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight savory burr, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key; it's quite young, and needs at least a year to develop and for the tannins to smooth, but will be worth waiting for, I think, and will also continue to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Casetta F.lli Vigna Case Nere Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, in a rather balsamic key; it opens with a whiff of hazelnut that resolves into balsam-laced berry fruit with a savory underpinning that also has some cumin to it and a fair amount of spice, and as it opens further some mentholated accents. On the palate it's ample and riper than I expected, with plum cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a rather sweet plum laced finish. Pleasant in a riper key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Stroppiana Oreste Azienda Agricola Vigna san Giacomo Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and greenish, with quite a bit of alcohol supporting menthol and savory notes mingled with shellac and almost artichoke stems. Angry, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some plum accents, and is supported by tannins that are ample and rather blocky, flowing into a cedar laced finish with fairly long savory warmth and some plum accents. It's up in the air, and needs time; in terms of style it's quite ripe and quite international; it's also quite young, and needs at least a year -- two would be better for the tannins to fold in and meld with the fruit.
2 stars

Eugenio Bocchino La Serra Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and leathery orange rim. The bouquet is powerful and fairly sweet, with jammy fruit laced with hints of rock candy and peppery spice with an herbal underpinning. On the palate it's ample and ripe, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that are sweet and have a slight cedar overlay to them, and flow into a warm plum laced tannic finish. Quite pleasant in an international key; it needs a year to get its bearings, but will then drink nicely with drier meats, ranging from roast beef cooked medium rare through roast rabbit stuffed with prunes. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Bosco Agostino La Serra Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by spice and slight milky notes, and an underpinning of cedar and dusky accents that brings dappled shade do mind. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are heading towards smoothness though they're not there yet -- a distinctly youthful burr flows into a fairly long bright finish savory. Pleasant, but needs time, a year at least -- two would be better -- and will age beautifully for many more thereafter.
2 stars

Massimo Penna Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leathery berry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol and some underlying leaf tobacco and peppery spice. Nice depth, though very young. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by moderate spicy mineral acidity and by tannins that are warm and greenish, with a slight burr. It's middle of the road in key, though leaning to the international side of the aisle.
2 stars

Marcarini La Serra Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with leather and raw beef that's been left in the sun at the outset, and quickly gives way to wood smoke with sweet peppery vegetal accents that almost bring relish to mind, and cumin-cardamom spice as well. Unusual. On the palate it's more noremal, with sour red berry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a long warm tannic finish with sour berry fruit underpinning. The nose is like a person who is having "one of those days," and will likely clean up over the next year, at which point it will be elegant in a middle of the road key.
2 stars

Voerzio Alberto La Serra Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and spicy, with wet green leather supported by sea salt and peppery spice with some savory notes as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are ample and have a cedary underpinning, flowing into a rather dry cedary finish. I'd have liked more depth and richness to the fruit, which is retiring with respect to the tannins and lets them carry the show.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Silvio Grasso Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. One of the darkest wines of the week. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and greenish spice with slight sweetish notes and black pepper that adds a certain zestiness. On the palate it's full and quite smooth in a very international style, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly long bright tannic finish with lively fairly sweet fruit underpinning and a degree of alcoholic warmth as well. It's elegant in a rich international key and very young; one could drink it now with a steak, but it will reward those who have the patience to give it a few more years.
2 stars

Cascina del Monastero Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and spicy, with a strong greenish vegetal tang and quite a bit of alcohol; there's also some tartness but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and somewhat sweet, with the sweetness deriving from alcohol, and with greenish plum cherry fruit that's rather ripe, and also rather short, dispensing with the assistance of acidity and settling quickly into a solid tannic finish. I'd have liked more length, though this may come with time. At present it's quite young.
1 star

Cordero di Montezemolo - Monfalletto Bricco Gattera Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather sweet, with berry fruit supported by cedar and some leaf tobacco with slight hints of shellac and sea salt as well. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by some minerality and quite a bit of alcohol, which confers sweetness, and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly long finish with alcohol and some plum. The fruit is a touch shorter than I might have liked, giving way to warmth and tannins; there's also a lot of alcohol, which makes it rather extreme.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Gianfranco Bovio Gattera Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is intense, with wet leather mingled with vegetal notes -- towards artichoke stems -- and sea salt, and some petroleum as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ripe, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are young and have a cedary burr, and flow into a fairly long plum laced tannic finish. The palate is further along than the nose, which is working though issues; assuming that when it does it follows the palate it will be pleasant in a fairly international and quite ripe key. But at present it's up in the air.

Michele Chiarlo Cerequio Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol and greenish spice mingled with berry fruit and some wet leather, cedar, and also slight scalded milk that is I think youthful wood-fruit interaction. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have an angry hot cedary burr and flow into a warm spicy finish with considerable black pepper. It's like someone who has bounced into the air and is flailing; it needs at least a year for the tannins to settle, and at that point will be towards the international side of the spectrum. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Mauro Veglio Vigneto Arborina Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to leathery orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish notes mingled with red berry fruit and some berry fruit acidity and some underlying spice with alcohol as well; it displays pleasing youthful vigor. On the palate it's bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and savory accents, and by tannins that are fairly smooth but do have a peppery burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish with peppery tannic underpinning. It's very young, and needs at least a year to come together and settle, but will be pleasant in a powerful middle of the road key.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Bovio Gianfranco Arborina Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and penetrating, with spicy notes and some wet leather; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit that displays hints of plum, and is supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are smooth and flow into a fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. The nose needs a year but the palate promises well, and it should turn out nicely in a rather powerful middle of the road key, a wine to drink with a roast rather than meditate over, at least in the short term, though the future may reserve surprises.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is powerful, and rather animal, with wet horse and some stable straw (mucked from the stable and sitting in the sun) laced with balsamic acidity and spice that has some savory accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean peppery finish with underlying sea salt and berry fruit acidity that's fairly long. The nose is particular, and you will like it or not; though it will develop (considerably) with time its character is I think set. If you like the style it's fairly rich, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Renato Ratti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky graphite shavings and some cedar with hints of gun Arabic, and slight sea salt and spice. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are ample, and flow into a plum laced cedary tannic finish. It's quite ripe, and rather soft, with the tannins carrying more than the acidity, and this will likely continue throughout the wine's life; I would have liked greater richness of fruit, which is eclipsed by the tannins.
1 star

Rocche Costamagna Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, and penetrating, with peppery spice and some scalded milk and oak. On the palate it's decidedly tannic, with moderate fruit that gives way to bitterness and blocky tannins that coat the tongue, and flow into a fairly bright tannic finish with some berry fruit acidity. Too much wood and it overshadows the fruit, at least now.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Andrea Oberto Vigneto Rocche Barolo DOCG 2007

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some plum fruit and a fair amount of cedar that has a greenish spicy overlay. On the palate it's full, with plum prune fruit that emerges at the outset, but is then overshadowed by the tannins, which are ample and cedar laced; direction comes from slight minerality, while there isn't much in the way of acidity, and this makes sense give the ripeness of the fruit. It needs at least a year to come together and develop, and will only work for you if you like big soft wines that are quite ripe, and low in acidity.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Mario Gagliasso Rocche dell'Annunziata Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some peppery spice and a fair amount of cedar. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by peppery tannins than considerable spice more than acidity, though there is some, and it flows into a fairly long peppery finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a ripe key though very young, and needs a year for the nose to develop and the tannins to settle; if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter wines with brighter acidities it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is smoky, with some penetrating spice and some sea salt. Not much fruit. On the palate it's a bit brighter than I expected, with moderately intense sour berry fruit that has some plum accents, and is supported by savory berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a warm rather long greenish tannic finish with some peppery accents. It's quite young, and needs a year to come together; this said, it's strongly oaked but not overripe, and may do interesting things; though it soon to say; at present it's really not interested in anyone else.

Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and decidedly green, with a fair amount of cedar and spice, with warmth, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that are ample and display a splintery burr and flow into a plum laced mineral tannic finish. It needs another couple of years to come together and for the tannins to smooth, at which point it will be quite ripe, though not that soft -- the tannins are powerful.
1 star

Damilano Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and penetrating, with greenish accents and slight acidity supported by delicate red berry fruit acidity and some gum Arabic. On the palate it's fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by dusky sweet (sweetness form alcohol) tannins and some minerality that flow into a fairly mineral finish with spicy underpinning. There isn't as much fruit as I might have liked; it bows out quickly to allow the tannins and spice to carry the show, and this penalizes the wine.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Andrea Oberto Vigneto Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with cedar and some, though not too much berry plum fruit. On the palate it's full, with plum fruit supported by some mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a plum laced finish. It's quite ripe, and still working through the tannins, that owe much of their essence to wood; this said it's not really soft, and if you like ample ripe wines you will enjoy it, though it does need another couple of years to get its bearings.
1 star

Wines from Monforte D'Alba Cascina Chicco Rocche di Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up slight cedar and greenish accents. Nobody home. On the palate it's fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a fairly bright fresh sour cherry finish. Pleasant, though it needs a couple of years to come together and get its feet under it; when it does it will be fairly traditional in feel, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Silvano Bolmida Vigna dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is powerful, and rather animal, with savory balsamic accents and lathered horse mingled with warmth and some wet stable straw. On the palate it's ample and languid, with balsam-laced savory berry fruit supported by moderately intense balsamic acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish balsamic burr, and flow into a fairly long spicy finish. It's quite traditional in a moderately powerful, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, especially if you prefer wines that tend towards finesse. If you prefer wines that are more modern in style it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Pecchenino San Giuseppe Barolo DOCG 2007

Pale almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is delicate with leather and rosa canina mingled with some leaf tobacco and spice; it's young, but promising and harmonious. On the palate it's ample, and more mineral than fruit driven, with dry minerality supported by tannins that are decidedly blocky and flow into a very tannic finish with savory spicy notes. A bit of a disappointment; I'd have liked more fruit and acidity, neither of which is really sufficient.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Marziano Abbona Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with menthol and some spice supporting greenish vegetal accents; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with a mineral attack that gives way to sour berry fruit and sour berry fruit acidity supported by tannins that are smooth and flow into a fairly long tannic finish with dusky butter underpinning. It's quite traditional, and if you prefer wines that are more fruit driven it won't work for you. However, if you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. the bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some sea salt and spice, but not much else. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are full and glancing, flowing into a warm tannic finish with slight cedar. It's very young and the nose needs at least a year to be presentable; as it stands it is wondering about having been bottled and gives an impression of a person curled up in a ball. If the nose follows the palate (and the palate calms down) it will be (quite) pleasant, but that's not today.

Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna D'La Roul Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black am with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some vegetable notes whose interaction brings yellow peaches to mind, and also slight chalk and cedar. On the palate it's full and rather bitter, with moderately intense berry-plum fruit supported by minerality, slight sweetness from alcohol, and tannins that are decidedly oaky, and flow into a cedar laced finish. A lot of oak, and this coupled with the soft ripeness of the fruit and a relative lack of acidity makes for a fairly flat wine.
1 star

Monti Duemilasette Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and fairly bright, with jammy berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spicy notes. Rich in a vibrantly youthful key. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a cedary sweetish cast and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish berry fruit finish. It's young, in a rather muscular key, and needs at least a year to come together and for the tannins to smooth; it will work well with red meats and such and perhaps be better suited to foods than meditation.
2 stars

Josetta Saffirio Persiera Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim; it's quite dark. The bouquet is somewhat out of sorts, with some ripe berry fruit supported by some cedar, and also9 by musty dried orange peel, and some savory spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fresh and fairly smooth, flowing into a greenish vegetal laced finish with tannic underpinning. It's middle of the road in key, tending slightly to ripeness, and needs another year at least for the tannins to smooth and come together.
2 stars

Mauro Veglio Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fresh and a bit disjointed, with ripe berry fruit supported by sweetish notes and cedar that combine to create something that brings crisp apples to mind. A bit unusual, and a feature of youth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense fruit supported by tannins that have a peppery spicy burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish. I'd have liked greater intensity of fruit and brighter acidity, because it's a bit settled.
1 star

Josetta Saffirio Francesco Millenovecentoquaranta Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some berry fruit supported by slight barnyard tang and some cedar and slight alcohol. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that are rather angry and lay a splintery burr over the tongue. And flow into a dry tannic finish. It needs a couple of years to come together, and will be middle of the road in key when it does.
1 star

Simone Scaletta Viticoltore Chirlet Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with alcohol and dried orange peel mingled with spice and some cedar, with spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm thoughtful burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish with sour berry fruit underpinning. The nose is behind the palate, which isn't that far along either; it needs another year or perhaps two to get its bearings and come together, at which point I would expect it to be more towards the traditional side of the scale, and age well for many years.
2 stars

Podere Ruggeri Corsini San Pietro Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and sweet, with dusky jammy berry fruit and some vegetal accents supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some cedar. On the palate it's ample and again fairly sweet -- more a touch of residual sugar than alcohol -- with jammy berry fruit supported by plum fruit sweetness and moderate plum acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do reveal a peppery burr, and flow into a fairly tannic finish with a greenish underpinning. It's young in an ample ripe but not overripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though it you prefer more tightly woven wines with brighter acidities you will find it a bit lax.
1 star

Diego Conterno Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and quite cedar-laced, with intense greenish cedary accents and very little else; it's like sniffing a barrel. On the palate it's full, with moderate minerality that fruit, which then gives way to terrific greenish cedar that carries through into a cedar laced finish. Lots of oak, and it covers most everything.
1 star

Pecchenino Le Coste Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with back reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly sweet, with jammy red berry and plum fruit supported by some mentholated accents and ripe squeezed yellow peaches, which can occur in young Nebbiolo, with slight underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with the softness coming from sweetness, with plum cherry fruit supported by bitter minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that flow into a fairly long rather bitter tannic finish. It's ample and ripe, but the tannins need another year to come together. If you like the style you will like it, but if you prefer tighter wines with richer acidities it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Manzone Giovanni Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweetness mingled with cedar and some berry fruit and slight shellac. It gives an impression of a fair amount of oak. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly soft finish; there isn't much acidity, and therefore the tannins end up carrying the show, and though they make a good go of it, acidity is much more interesting.
1 star

Alessandria Fratelli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish notes mingled with red berry fruit and some leaf tobacco, and some sea salt as well. It has a certain airiness to it. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity and tannins that have a peppery greenish burr and flow into a peppery tannic finish with a long greenish underpinning that gradually reveals sour berry fruit as well. It's fairly aggressive, thanks overtones the tannins, and needs another year to get its bearings; I would expect it to age nicely in a fairly direct middle of the road key,
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Oreste Stroppiana Gabutti Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly vegetal, with berry fruit and jammy accents mingled with hints of grilled sausage -- one writes what one perceives. On the palate it's fairly bright, with fresh cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some plum sweetness, and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It needs a year or two, and will drink well with roasts or stews. Direct in youth.
2 stars

Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with some red berry fruit and slight animal tang, and as it opens plum jam made with a piece of lemon rind. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and savory, and flow into a fairly long savory finish. A big wine that's ripe but not overripe, and does have some acidity to provide direction; if you like the style you will like it, but if you prefer tighter wines with richer acidities it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Podere Ruggeri Corsini Corsini Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, and markedly vegetal, with greenish notes and spice and some sea salt, but not much fruit. On the palate it's quite ripe, with a touch of sweetness that comes with this degree of ripeness, and plum fruit supported by some plum acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean fairly bright plum finish with tannic underpinning. It's big but not settled, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style; if you prefer tighter wines with richer acidities it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Franco Conterno Cascina Sciulun Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. Very dark. The bouquet is powerful and jammy with plum fruit supported by some acidity and some cedar; considerable concentration to it in a very ripe key. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with rich plum fruit supported by savory notes and minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and a touch drier than I expected, flowing into a long rather dusky plum finish. Very ripe, in a big soft key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter, brighter wines you won't.
1 star

Giacosa Fratelli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of greenish cedar mingled with some spice and slight sweetness; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with jammy plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, with some cedar to them. It's a big soft expression of Barolo and in this context is well made. If you prefer wines that are brighter and have more acidity and verve it won't work for you.
1 star

Poderi Colla Dardi le Rose Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish cedar mingled with herbal notes and some spice, and also some scalded milk that is wood-fruit interaction. Not much fruit, though there are hints of plum. On the palate it's ample, with savory plum fruit supported by considerable graphite shaving bitterness and tannins that have a dusky bitter cast to them, and flow into a bitter tannic finish. Ample power, and ripe fruit, without much acidity; the result is big and soft, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I found myself wanting less ripeness and more verve.
1 star

Silvano Bolmida Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and spicy, with berry fruit supported by greenish accents that somehow bring nettles to mind, and cedar and wood smoke as well. On the palate it's bright, with berry fruit that's much more sour than I expected, supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are tremendously oaky, and lay a veneer over the palate, thus leading into a long green finish. Too much oak for me, and while it will fold in with time I doubt it will ever fold in enough.
1 star

Barale Fratelli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and some cedar and slight savory notes, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr. The nose needs another year to come together, but it's pleasant in an ample fairly ripe key, with sufficient acidity to have direction, and fruit that is quite ripe but not overripe and soft. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful -- it emerges form the glass without swishing -- and cedary with some plum prune fruit that manages to escape from under the blanket of oak, but not much. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly sweet plum fruit supported by moderately intense acidity (that I didn't expect) and by smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm finish with some plum accents, and slight mineral acidity. It's big, very ripe, and very smooth, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you are more traditionally minded it won't work for you.
2 stars

Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007
Pyrope. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with rich prune cherry fruit laced with fresh cut ripe peaches and cedar, mingled with menthol as well. Tremendous concentration and one could cut it with a fork. On the palate it's full and powerful, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a very strong spicy burr and flow into a long spicy berry fruit finish. It's a big wine well polished and heavily oaked, and takes no quarter -- either you like the style or you don't. If you do, give the tannins a year to get their bearings, and drink it with drier meats.
2 stars

Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Quite charged. The bouquet is intense, with greenish berry fruit that doesn't quite manage yellow peaches but is in that direction, and a fair amount of underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample and smooth, but brighter than I expected on the outset, with cherry plum fruit that emerges blinking owlishly and is then snatched back by angry splintery cedar laced tannins that carry into a long warm cedar laced finish. A lot of new wood here, and it overshadows the grapes at present, and will likely continue to do so in the future.
1 star

Parusso Armando di Parusso F.lli Le Coste Mosconi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is interesting, with slight berry fruit supported by savory cedar in a combination that brings to mind wet stable straw at the first swish, and then opens further to reveal vegetal accents and peppery spice. Quite charged, and the other elements come to overshadow the fruit. On the palate it's brighter than one might have expected though still in the ripe to overripe category, with smoky cherry plum fruit that emerges briefly, and is supported by tannins that are powerfully cedar laced and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish with some plum fruit. Ample, with soft fruit and quite a bit of tannic support in large part from wood. If you like the style you will like it, but if you prefer tighter wines with richer acidities it won't work for you. It's a little too young to score.