Vernaccia di San Gimignano: The 2010 Vintage, Mostly

Tuscany is primarily known for red wines, and justly so. However, the town of San Gimignano has always been known for its white wines, and in particular a white made from a grape called Vernaccia, whose origins are shrouded in the mists of time; some say it was brought by the Etruscans, and by the Renaissance it was firing the imaginations of poets and kings. And it was because of this historical renown that it was the first Italian wine to receive DOC status when the appellation system was set up in the early 1960s.

Unfortunately, as Riccardo Falchini once said to me, in the centuries after the Renaissance warfare and turmoil swept away most of the region's enological traditions. Thus, most of the modern (as of 1966) white wines of San Gimignano bore little resemblance to their ancestor; in short order Vernaccia acquired a reputation of being light and spritzy that has still not been dispelled today, despite tremendous improvements in quality, especially on the part of the leading vintners.

Part of the problem is that Vernaccia grape is not noble, and therefore requires careful cultivation to low yields and superb technique to give good results; even today there are considerable differences in quality and much is still spritzy. Why do vintners persevere with it rather than plant Chardonnay? Because it's distinctive and unique, and the best is excellent: Powerful and full-bodied, with a rich, heady bouquet and a crisp clean taste that lingers long on the palate, a golden-hued wine that both warms and inspires. As Montenidoli's Elisabetta Fagiuoli observes, "it is really a red wine made from white grapes."

The Vernaccia appellation is fairly small, about 850 hectares of vineyards, planted on Pliocene hilly terrains of an average altitude of 280 M ASL around the town of San Gimignano; the soil types are primarily argille sabbiose (sandy clays) and sabbie gialle (yellow sands). The predominant varietal is, as one might expect, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, though the DOCG regulations allow a maximum of 15% non-aromatic white, or 10% aromatic, e.g. Sauvignon, varietals to be added. While I did find a couple of wines with Sauvignon, the most popular blending varietal is Chardonnay, which is not as popular as it was in the past. In other words, people are concentrating more on their Vernaccia.

The vineyards are primarily trained to the Guyot system, with a minimum planting density of 3000 vines per hectare, which many producers exceed by a considerable margin. The total allowable yield per hectare is 90 quintals, and many harvest much less.

The harvest generally falls between September and October 15, and is followed by temperature controlled fermentation; some producers ferment everything in steel or cement vats, while others barrel ferment some of their wines. The minimum alcohol level for Vernaccia di San Gimignano tout court is 11%, and the wine can be released in the spring following the harvest. There is also a Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, which must be at least 11.5% alcohol, and must be aged for a year, at least four months of which in bottle,, prior to release. As general notes, most Vernaccia di San Gimignano is more than 11% alcohol, sometimes considerably more, and though some producers do make the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, it is not as popular.

A few words on the vintage: 2010 was difficult in Tuscany. June and July were quite cool, and wet too, which means that the growing cycle was somewhat behind schedule. August was instead quite hot, searingly so, and the vines, which had become accustomed to the cooler temperatures of the early part of the season, did not react well; acidities dropped, and consequently many of the vintage wines revolve more around minerality than acidity.

The picture changes with the 2010 vintage selections, which were made with the best grapes: here acidities are livelier and duet with minerality, making for wines that are on average considerably more interesting.

In addition to the vintage selections I tasted the 2008 Riserva, which was more of a mixed bag. Some of the wines are quite elegant, whereas others came across as trying too hard and as a result coming up short.

I also tasted a number of white IGT wines; with these the winemakers are free from the strictures of the Appellation, and can consequently do as they will. Though there were a couple of notable exceptions, these wines are clearly intensed to be approachable and easy to drink. Not quite quaffing wines, but very nice in the hotter summer months.

And finally, San Gimignano, lime many other parts of Italy, is showing renewed interest in Rosati. Some are made from grapes grown specifically to become rosato, whereas others are the result of the salasso technique, in which the winemaker draws off some of the must from the tanks that will yield red wine to increase the concentration of what remains; this must is pale pink and when fermented becomes rosato. Again, perfect wines for the summer months, and I enjoyed some of them considerably.

Winding down, I am much indebted to Elisabetta Borgonovi of the Consorzio della Vernaccia di San Gimignano, who gathered samples from close to 40 wineries for me. I tasted them blind at the Consorzio in late June 2011, and they appear in the order in which the Vernaccia Base was poured.

Castellaccia

Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy gold with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with some bitter floral accents and some bitter almond with savory notes as well. On the palate it's light, and quite mineral with savory notes and some underlying hazelnut minerality, flowing into a dusky savory finish. It's a little direct, and has a hint of oxidation to it; it's not a wine to set aside but will work well now with simple foods.
1 star

Castellaccia Murice Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Pale brassy greenish white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with chopped Granny Smith apples mingled with some shellac and some spice. A bit unusual and not as fresh as I might have expected from the appearance; the second bottle has less apple and a touch more shellac. On the palate it's bright and decidedly savory, and also has a rather tired feel too it, flowing into a quick savory finish. Not working too well for me.
1 star

Castellaccia Astrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and fairly mineral, with spice from grape and some greenish accents mingled with bitter almond blossoms and some mineral acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with more minerality and less fruit than I expected, though there is some citric warmth that provides direction, coupled with slight greenish acidity. It has an oddly empty feel to it, like a structure whose foundations and walls are solid, but that doesn't have much between them
1 star

Castellaccia Ciriole Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Lively pale salmon ruby with onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with delicate red berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and slight spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively raspberry fruit supported by peppery acidity and tannins that are light and slightly greenish, and it flows into a clean rather savory peppery finish with sour berry fruit underpinning. Direct, up front, and will work nicely with simple summer foods, or as an aperitif. It's a little too bitter to be drunk by the glass, though that flinty bitterness will work nicely with foods.
1 star

Macinatico

Macinatico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with white rim. The bouquet is delicate with floral accents and some savory honeydew melon; it's rather graceful. On the palate it's bright, with bitter minerality and sea salt supported by mineral acidity and slight vegetal notes that flows into a rather peppery finish. Pleasant and will work well as an aperitif or with grilled or roasted fish, also with creamy white meats, and the tannic structure, which is supported by peppery accents, will make it a nice bet with sushi and similar. 2 stars

Macinatico IGT Toscana 2010
Pale white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and slight floral accents with some heather as well, and as it opens hints of honeydew melon that gain in intensity with time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory honeydew melon supported by loquat acidity and some savory slightly tannic notes, and slow into a fairly long tart savory finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct key, and will work well as an aperitif or with white meats or fish.
2 stars

San Benedetto

San Benedetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy yellow with slight greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some ripe sour lemon fruit and underlying vegetal bitterness, and also some greenish accents and slight bitter almond. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with mineral-laced white berry fruit supported by savory accents and slight acidity; it's more the minerality carrying the show, and it flows into a fresh mineral finish with some loquat accents. Fairly direct, and will drink nicely with simple fish or vegetable based dishes.
1 star

San Benedetto Vermentino IGT Toscana 2010
Quite pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm tropical fruit supported by slight savory accents and some greenish notes as well. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich tropical fruit supported by moderate acidity and some sweetness, which makes it considerably more approachable; it's not quite crooking a finger in a "come hither" gesture but headed in that direction, and will work well as an aperitif or with simple summer foods, and will also be nice by the glass when you want a wine but don't want to meditate over it.
2 stars

La Lastra

La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with some greenish notes in the reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some brambly heather and minerality with slight sour lemon too. On the palate it's full, and quite mineral, with some brambly tannins and underlying lemony acidity that gradually emerges, then fades to bitter, almost flinty minerality. It's straight forward, and one of those wines that will support what it's served with -- soups, simple vegetarian dishes, mildly flavored fish or white meats -- without demanding attention.
2 stars

La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009
Pale brassy white with slight greenish reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with loquat and some heather mingled with some pineapple and other ripe tropical fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich tropical fruit supported by mineral acidity and savory minerality that brings struck granite to mind, and flows into a long tart mineral finish with lasting underlying bitterness. Pleasant and approachable in a powerful key, and will work well with rich grilled or roasted fish -- salmon, even, and also with white meats, while one could also press it into service with white meats, or mixed fried meats and vegetables, and, given its body, Chinese including dishes from the more flavorful schools, such as Hunan.
2 stars

Il Palagione

Il Palagione Hydra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is savory with some hops -- the kind used to make beer at home, and I don't remember enough from my home brewing days to be able to say which -- with some sea salt as well, and some heather too. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality and some vegetal-laced bitterness that is also supported by flinty tannins from grapes, and flows into a bitter mineral finish. Fairly direct, and will drink nicely with grilled or roasted fish; it's a wine that will work well with what it's served with, supporting but not demanding attention.
2 stars

Palagione Enif IGT Toscana 2010
Pale greenish white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up sea salt and heather mingled with bright sunny accents. Quite up front in a tomboyish sort of way. On the palate it's savory, with lemony fruit and acidity that flows into a savory finish; it's again quite up front, and will work well as an aperitif if you like this sort of tartness, though I would perhaps think to serve it with fried fish or fried meats, and fried vegetables. Expect it to go quickly in the proper setting, and that would include cookouts.
1 star

Fontaleoni

Fontaleoni Notte di Luna Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is mineral with some vegetal accents, heather, bitter almonds and sea salt. On the palate it's fairly rich, with minerality and some lemony mineral acidity, and also a slight languidity that flows into a savory finish with some mineral accents and acidity. Pleasant, and will work well with grilled ro roasted fish, and also with simple white meats.
2 stars

Fontaleoni Etichetta Verde Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy greenish yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is brambly, with savory almond blossom and almond fuzz supported by greenish vegetal accents and bitter minerality. On the palate it's quite mineral, with gunflint bitterness and savory accents supported by some savory minerality, and it flows into a decidedly mineral finish with lasting bitterness. Pleasant in a mineral key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it considerably. If you prefer whites with more fruit you may initially be perplexed, but then find it has something to say.
2 stars

Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with butterscotch and some citrus mingled with greenish accents and slight lactic acid and some mentholated notes. On the palate it's ample, and rather soft, with moderately intense sour lemon fruit supported by languidity and some greenish accents, with tannins that are greenish and have a flinty burr. It's a bit less lively than some, revolving more around minerality than acidity, and brings to mind someone who is muscular but not really tight.
1 star

Fontaleoni Casanuova Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Brilliant brassy gold with pale greenish highlights and brassy reflections. the bouquet is moderately intense, with gunflint bitterness mingled with some vegetal notes as well, and some mineral acidity. On the palate it's rather languid, with moderately intense loquat fruit supported by minerality and loquat-lemon acidity, while there is also a savory underpinning that flows into a rather savory finish with underlying slightly bitter minerality. It's a touch laxer than some, but harmonious, and will drink well with somewhat simpler fish or white meats.
2 stars

Cesani

Cesani Vincenzo Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and slight vegetal accents with sea salt and hints of bitter almond. On the palate it's bright and savory, with lemony acidity supported by minerality that brings granite to mind, and flows into a fairly bright savory finish with lemony underpinning. Pleasant and bright, and will work well with fish, white meats, and also has just enough verve to work with fried fish or meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Cesani Vincenzo Sanice Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with greenish highlights and brilliant brassy golden reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeysuckle and butterscotch mingled with slight greenish notes and some gunflint; there's also some mineral acidity, and underlying mentholated accents that add depth. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by gunflint bitterness and spice, and by warm savory accents that flow into a fairly long savory gunflint laced finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with both fish and white meats.
2 stars

Cesani Serarosa Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pale salmon orange with onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some raspberry fruit and some acidity, and some heather as well. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity and to a greater degree by gunflint minerality, while the tannins though light do have a slight burr, and flow into a savory finish. A simple, direct cookout or picnic wine.
1 star

Rocca delle Macie

Rocca delle Macie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with slight greenish reflections. The bouquet is greenish, with almond blossoms and fuzz supported by gunflint bitterness and some savory accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory minerality supported by lemony acidity and bitter almonds, which flow into a warm tart bitter almond finish with a bright savory underpinning and slight tannins with hints of greenish minerality. Pleasant, and will work nicely with grilled or roasted fish, simple white meats, and also be a good with cheese or vegetable based pasta or risotto.
2 stars

Casa alle Vacche

Casa alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale greenish brassy gold. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish minerality and sea salt supported by some peppery bitterness. On the palate it's ample and languid, with pleasant savory bitterness supported by sea salt and some peppery accents that flow into a clean savory finish. It's ample and rather languid, and will work well with grilled or roasted fish, and also with simple vegetable based pasta and risotto dishes.
1 star

Casa alle Vacche Crocus Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009
Pale brassy yellow with slight greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with floral notes and sea salt, and also some savory accents. On the palate it's bright, with brambly sour lemon fruit supported by considerable savory minerality tan by light brambly tannins that hayve a warm burr and flow into a fairly long savory sour citric finish. It's young, and rather charged, and will work well with flavorful fish or white meats, and also has the capacity to age nicely for several years.
2 stars

Casa alle Vacche Macchioni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is riper than some, with loquat fruit supported by acidity and greenish bitter almond accents, with some savory spice as well, and some underlying bitterness. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with warm flinty lemony fruit supported by lemony acidity and savory gunflint bitterness, and it flows into a warm citric laced savory finish with bitter accents. It's big boned, with considerable flesh to it that isn't as tightly defined as some; were it a teen I'd say it still had its baby fat. Pleasant to drink, but not as tight and interesting as some.
2 stars

Casa alle Vacche Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Lively pink with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit laced with some greenish acidity and spice, and also some savory accents, and greenish spice. On the palate it's deft, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by savory notes and moderate sour berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are light and dusky, and flow into a tart sour berry fruit finish with greenish vegetal underpinning. Powerful, and will work better with foods than by the glass.
1 star

Società Agricola Rubicini

Società Agricola Rubicini Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with white rim. The bouquet is decidedly mineral with greenish vegetal accents and sea salt, and has some deft greenish mineral acidity -- not quite gunflint -- as well. On the palate it's bright, and mineral, with gunflint bitterness and sea salt that work nicely together and flow into a clean rather bitter mineral finish with lasting savory accents. It's direct and up front, and will work well with foods, in particular lighter summer dishes or fish or white meats.
2 stars

Società Agricola Rubicini Etherea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, and decidedly greenish with a great rush of bitter almonds mingled with minerality and vegetal notes that bring artichoke stems to mind, mingled with slight honey sweetness and some honeysuckle. Quite a bit going on in a charged key; it stands out. On the palate it's again powerful, with bright sour gunflint supported by sea salt and flinty peppery notes, and by slight bitter butterscotch, which flows into a dusky savory finish with lasting gunflint bitterness. It's pleasant in a muscular charged key -- though there are some subtle aspects to the wine that emerge if one thinks about them, it's not a subtle wine by any means -- and will drink well with flavorful fish, ranging from fried fish to hearty fish stews, and also work well with creamy white meats.
2 stars

San Quirico San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Deep brassy white with some hints of green in the reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather mineral, with some sea salt as well, and greenish vegetal accents and some spi8ce from grapes. On the palate it's more languid than I expected, with savory minerality supported by some mineral acidity, but not the strong savory accents I expected; and flows into a decidedly savory rather mineral finish. Pleasant in a savory mineral key, and will work well with simple foods or be a nice aperitif. Not quite bracing enough for things such as fried fish or meats.
2 stars

San Quirico I Campi Santi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2005
Pale brassy green with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and slight butterscotch with some spice as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright mineral laced sour lemon fruit supported by tannins that have a flinty burr and flow into a clean rather mineral finish with lasting citric acidity and savory accents. I'd expected a little more from the nose, but the palate is quite in keeping with the cool wet weather of the 2005 summer, and the wine will work quite well with foods.
2 stars

San Quirico Isabella Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2005
Pale brassy gold with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour lemon fruit supported by the pungent notes white develop with time, and by fairly bright acidity, with some gunflint as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory lemon fruit supported by savory minerality and tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a long savory finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, and will work well with foods, though it's a little too lax to drink by the glass and sit thinking about now.
2 stars

Fornacelle Fornacelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some mineral notes and slight wet paper; one has the impression that it hasn't recovered from filtration yet. On the palate it's savory, with some minerality and some acidity, and overall fairly direct, flowing into a clean mineral finish. Some loquat.
1 star

Vagnoni Vagnoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy green with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is savory, with some languid sea salt and hints of hops (the kind used to make beer) mingled with some greenish vegetal notes and bitter languid, with savory minerality and sea salt mingled with slight loquat. On the palate it's savory, with some sour loquat fruit and fairly intense minerality that flow into a clean mineral finish with sour slight bitter underpinning. It's fairly direct, but pleasant to drink, and will work well with fish or white meats; they say that Vernaccia is a red wine in white clothes and this matches that description.
2 stars

Vagnoni Mocali Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some butterscotch and languid tropical fruit mingled with some savory notes. A bit more butterscotch than the others. )On the palate it's ample and languid, with lemony fruit laced with butterscotch that carries into a fairly long lemony finish with some hints of butterscotch and sea salt. It's fairly international in style, and if you like the style well made. If you prefer Vernaccia that's more traditional it will work less well for you.
1 star

Vagnoni Mocali Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and some gunflint supported by slight greenish accents and some bitter almond, while there is also citric fruit and acidity, and some menthol. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by deft mineral laced citric acidity and by tannins that have a slight peppery burr, and flow into a long mineral finish with citric underpinning. Deft, with considerable power and studied elegance; it will work well now with hearty fish or creamy white meat dishes, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars

Vagnoni Fontabuccio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Brassy gold with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and more savory than some, with deft minerality supported by fairly rich bitterness. Harmonious. On the palate it's quite mineral, with warm minerality supported by mineral acidity that has slight hints of citrus to it, though there is also struck granite, and a savory underpinning that coupled with warmth flows into a fairly long finish that has a flinty bitterness to it too. Pleasant, and will drink well with flavorful grilled or roasted fish, and also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Vagnoni Pancolino Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pale salmon pink with white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish floral accents mingled with some red berry fruit and spice. Quite fresh and nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour forest berry fruit and raspberry fruit supported by a mixture of sour cherry raspberry acidity and tannins that are light and have some peppery accents, and slow into a clean peppery finish with a savory sour berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant and will drink nicely as an aperitif if you want a rosè, or with picnic or cookout foods.
2 stars

Fattoria San Donato Fattoria San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is savory, with some minerality and lemony acidity mingled with some loquat and supported by slight greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by savory acidity and minerality that gives a nice underpinning, and it all flows into a clean savory finish with loquat fruit that adds depth. Pleasant, in a bright key, and will work well as an aperitif or with flavorful fish or white meats (creamy), and also has the verve necessary to work well with fried fish or meats and vegetables; I would also be tempted to serve it with sushi, In short, versatile.
2 stars

Fattoria San Donato Benedetta Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some butterscotch and some spice, supported by slight smoky accents and some gunflint bitterness. On the palate it's ample and languid, with moderately intense savory minerality supported by mineral acidity and slight gunflint greenish accents, which flow into a clean fairly bright greenish finish. It's ample and rather languid, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer wines that are tighter and more together it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Fattoria San Donato Angelica Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Deep brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with lemony fruit laced with citric acidity and some bitter almonds, and supported by butterscotch and some savory minerality laced with gunflint, Quite a bit going on, in a fairly modern key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality and citric acidity more than fruit, and also a fairly rich gunflint bitterness, while the tannins are slight and have peppery accents, flowing into a clean peppery finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will work quite well with foods, though there is an aggressiveness to the gunflint that will make it not perfect for everyone by the glass.
2 stars

Poderi del Paradiso

Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Deep brassy gold with some greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with lemony fruit mingled with scalded milk and some spice, and also some greenish vegetal accents. With time the scalded milk gives way to hints of cedar and savory hops. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with sea salt and lemony fruit supported by some bitterness and slight acidity, and it flows into a fairly long rather bitter mineral finish. It's ample, and rather soft, though there is quite enough acidity to provide direction.. It's a wine that will work well with simple foods and won't be overly demanding at table, and there is very much a place for these wines in the world. A second bottle would be nice.
1 star

Poderi del Paradiso Lo Cha IGT Toscana 2010
Pale greenish white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense,with ith greenish accents and bitter almond mingled with floral notes and some heather. Graceful in a fairly direct key. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly intense loquat fruit that has some green apricot overtones, and is supported by bright green apricot acidity that has slight peppery accents, and flows into a fairly long loquat-green apricot finish with considerable peppery bitterness. It's quite up front, with a brashness that brings a teen giving a "who me" sort of look to mind, and will work well with grilled or fried fish or meats, and also be a nice cookout wine.
2 stars

Guidi

Guidi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with almond fuzz and bitterness mingled with some citric acidity and slight loquat, and also savory notes and minerality On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with considerable sea salt and some lemony acidity that flow into a clean fairly bright mineral citric finish. It's ample and fairly direct, and will drink well with simple foods; I might have liked a bit more tightness, but it is well balanced and at peace with itself, so my desires are merely quibbling.
1 star

Guidi Chardonnay Vino Bianco IGT Toscana 2010
Pale brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents mingled with minerality and slight hints of honey, and some savory heather as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour loquat and lemon acidity supported by considerable black pepper and some spice, which flow into a fairly long sour loquat finish with some hints of green apricot. It will work nicely as an aperitif or with simple summer dishes, and be quite versatile too.
2 stars

Cecchi

Cecchi Montauto Montauto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Greenish brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is unusual, and much more aromatic than most, with gooseberry and floral accents mingled with sea salt and mineral acidity; to be frank it brings a Sauvignon to mind. On the palate it's ample, and bright, with lively gooseberry sour lemon acidity supported by languid notes and slight sea salt, and it flows into a clean lemony gooseberry finish that ends with savory bitterness. It's quite distinct from the other wines poured at the tasting, but also lively, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer the minerality and bitterness that are more Vernaccia's stock in trade, especially in this vintage, it won't work as well for you. Were I to judge on typicity alone I would have scored it lower.
2 stars

Panizzi

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with minerality and some mineral acidity, and also some vegetal notes and heather from a Tuscan field in summer. On the palate it's bright, with lively minerality supported by lemony acidity and some peppery spice that flow into a clean savory mineral finish with underlying lemony fruit. Pleasant in a fresh rich key, with slight hints of languidity, though they are just hints, and it will work quite well with flavorful fish or white meats, and also has the acidity to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Or fish.
2 stars

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep greenish brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tropical fruit laced with some balsamic accents and warmth, and also sea salt. On the palate it's ample, with rich languid lemony fruit supported by fairly intense acidity and by tannins that have a peppery flinty burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish that resolves into savory accents. Bright, with nice depth, and will drink well with foods, though it's a touch course to be drink by the glass.
2 stars

Panizzi Vigna Santa Margherita Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated gunflint and some savory notes with underlying hints of butterscotch (from grape) and slight balsamic accents, also greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit that has some underlying honey suckle sweetness to it, and warm flinty acidity that has a flinty burr, and flows into an ample savory gunflint finish. It's harmonious in a softer more mineral key, and if you like this style, which is a touch laxer because there's less acidity to keep it taut, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Panizzi Ceraso Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Deeper almost brick pink; no salmon here and almost a light red as opposed to a rosé. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit and slight acidity, and with time yellow peaches. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry and raspberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity that has some mineral accents, and by light tannins that flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. It's closer to a red in some ways, though remaining very much a rosé. I'd have liked a little more verve to the nose, which isn't quite up to the palate, though as it opens it does come closer.
1 star

Mattia Barzaghi

Mattia Barzaghi Impronta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is mineral, with some savory bitterness and heather; there are also hints of bitter almond mingled into the minerality. On the palate it's bright and mineral with lively mineral acidity and some loquat fruit supported by peppery spice and some savory notes that flow into a clean savory mineral finish with slight loquat underpinning. Bracing, and will work quite well with foods, ranging from grilled or roasted fish through white meats, and also rich risotti or vegetable or fish based pasta dishes. Quite a bit going on in a fairly powerful key, and it's still coming together.
2 stars

Mattia Barzaghi Cassandra Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009
Pale brassy green with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with butterscotch mingled with berry fruit and tropical fruit, and supported by some loquat acidity. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with bright sour lemon loquat fruit supported by minerality and sour lemon acidity, and by tannins that have a slight mineral burr and flow into a fairly bright greenish mineral laced finish that's quite long, fading into bitter savory accents. It will be versatile, working well with a variety of flavorful fish and creamy white meats, and also with fish or vegetable based pasta dishes and risotti. Also some oriental, sushi and moderately spiced Chinese.
2 stars

Mattia Barzaghi Zeta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy whitish gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly more vegetal than most, with brambly gunflint as well that brings to mind hammer-struck granite, and some savory notes and acidity; it's still coming together in a fairly powerful key. On the palate it's fairly rich, with more languid than expected sour lemon fruit supported by mineral warmth and slight scalded milk, while there arte also savory accents and it flows into a mineral finish with citric underpinning and savory bitter notes. It's somewhat more languid than some, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Mattia Barzaghi Sorriso Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with sour berry fruit supported by spice and slight greenish accents, and hints of sandalwood spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, and savory, with bright sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slight peppery burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Deft, with nice finesse, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods. Expect it to go quickly, and to want more.
2 stars

Guicciardini Strozzi

Guicciardini Strozzi Titolare Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy green si brassy reflections and pale greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, and more floral than most, with a degree of sweetness as well and slight spice supported by bitter almond fuzz; it's almost giving a come-hither look. On the palate it's ample, with savory minerality and white berry fruit laced with hints of butterscotch and bitter almond that flow into a fairly bitter finish with some savory underpinning and hints of butterscotch and smoke. It's a bit more opulent than some, and also breaks from the field with respect to the flavor cast and a certain opulence; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's not standard Vernaccia.
1 star

Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some citric acidity and slight brambles laced with butterscotch. Niced epth and balance, though it gives an impression of youth. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by clean mienrlaity and some peppery spice, and flows into a bright citric finish with some peppery accents. Pleasant, and will work quite well with foods; it displays pleasing verve and liveliness in a bright muscular key.
2 stars

Guicciardini Strozzi 33 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with loquat fruit laced with slight honeydew melon and some honeysuckle, also slight clover honey, and some greenish honeysuckle accents. Not much acidity, however, and it gives an impression of roundness. On the palate it's brighter than I expected with lively loquat fruit supported by gunflint minerality and considerable flinty sea salt that also has some peppery accents, and flows into a fairly bright long savory finish with underlying tart lemony loquat acidity. It's a big wine, with a nice balance between acidity, fruit and minerality in a slightly more languid key than some, and will work well with fish or white meats, while I would also be tempted to serve it with Chinese dishes, both meat and fish based, and also with raw fish.
2 stars

Guicciardini Strozzi Arabesque Vermentino IGT Toscana 2010
Brassy yellow with brilliant straw yellow reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and savory, bringing hops to mind, and supported by some floral accents as well and slight greenish notes. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fullness coming more from glycerin and minerality than fruit or fruit 8or even mineral) driven acidity; it isn't empty, but not as full as I had expected wither, and the wine revolves more around minerality and bitterness than acidity, which I find to be more interesting.
1 star

Fattoria Pietrafitta

Fattoria Pietrafitta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and brilliant brassy highlights. The bouquet is muted, though some minerality and slight heather emerge, supported by some sea salt. On the palate it's ample and languid, with moderately intense acidity and some minerality, which provides the fullness, and flows into a languid mineral finish. It's a big wine, and approachable, but not really tight, nor with verve; it will work well with foods however and won't hog the limelight.
1 star

Pietrafitta La Costa Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009
Pale greenish white with white rim. One of the palest and coolest looking wines; there's almost no yellow to it. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mentholated accents and some pine pitch mingled with spice and slight butterscotch that develops into hints of Sapone di Marsiglia. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright savory lemon fruit supported by peppery accents and fairly rich loquat acidity that flow into a clean fairly tart finish with some hints of butterscotch that provide softness in the finish. It's brash, with the pepperyness in the mouthfeel contributing to this, and will work well with foods now; it has the acidity to age well for a number of years, but I would drink it sooner to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

Fattoria Pietrafitta Borghetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with greenish brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with loquat fruit supported by some honeysuckle and some mineral acidity, while there is also some heather and hints of honey. On the palate it's bright, with lively brambly mineral laced savory citric supported by some gunflint and by slight tannins from grapes that have a flinty feel to them, which flow into a fairly long mineral finish with a flinty citric underpinning. It's pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods -- it has the power to work with fried fish or meats, and the elegance to work with grilled or roasted fish, and also elegant white meats -- and also the wherewithal to age well for at least 5 years.
2 stars

Cappella Sant'Andrea

Cappella Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale bassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bitter almonds and some minerality mingled with some greenish accents and spice, and very slight gooseberry. Fairly direct, in an up front key. On the palate it's ample and languid, with minerality more than acidity carrying the show, and flows into an ample mineral finish. The minerality does carry the show nicely, but I'd have liked a touch more acidity to provide brightness.
1 star

Cappella Sant'Anndrea Rialto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, and decidedly brambly with greenish vegetal accents supported by mentholated spice and the heather from a field cut in the summer months, and also some almost balsamic acidity. Quite charged, and very intense. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by balsamic accents and warmth, coupled with citric acidity and tannins that have a slight flinty burr and flow into a long mineral finish with gunflint bitterness and some vegetal notes. Pleasant, in a more powerful key that demands to be noted -- if you like more delicate wines it won't work as well for you -- and will work well with flavorful foods, ranging from fried fish or meats and vegetables through flavorful grilled fish -- fish steaks topped with a tomatoey sauce that also has capers and onions comes to mind. It will do a fine job of supporting richly flavored foods and will also age nicely for several years.
2 stars

Cappella Sant'Andrea Tramontano Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pale salmon with onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by lactic acidity and some greenish vegetal accents and slight peppery spice. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense raspberry cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some minerality with hints of gunflint that flow into a fairly long bitter finsh. Direct, and will work well as a picnic or cookout wine, or with simple summer dishes.
1 star

Colombaio Santa Chiara

Colombaio Santa Chiara Selvabianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy gold with brilliant greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with marked vegetal notes mingled with spice and some heather, and also very slight honey sweetness. On the palate it's ample, with savory lemony fruit supported by some bitter accents and fairly bright minerality that flow into a clean savory citric finish. It's an ample, rather languid wine that will work well with foods, ranging from fish or vegetable risotti through green pasta sauces and flavorful, not too fatty fish or white meats.
2 stars

Colombaio Santa Chiara L'Albereta Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2009
Brassy gold with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and butterscotch mingled with some sea salt and some underbrush, also spice. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with white berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that have a hint of butterscotch to them, and flow into a warm fairly long butterscotch laced finish. It has digested -- successfully -- a little more oak than I might have liked. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but I found it a touch too disciplined.
1 star

Le Rote

Le Rote Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some heather and slight greenish notes as well, and some sea salt and slight hops. On the palate it's fairly rich, with peppery spice and bitter minerality supported by hints of gunflint and lemony acidity that flow into a fairly long mineral finish with a slight peppery tannic underpinning and hoppy bitterness.
2 stars

Melini - GIV

Melini - GIV Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with pale greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, with hints of minerality and some wet paper that's the filtration, and will fade, while there is also some greenish notes and heather from a cut field. On the palate it's ample and languid, with sea salt and minerality supported by some citric acidity, though what carries more is the minerality, and it flows into a clean savory finish. It is ample and rather languid, with minerality and bitterness that give it depth, in a substantial key, well thewed and solid.
1 star

Melini - GIV Le Grillaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy greenish white with slight greenish accents and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with bitter almonds and some greenish mineral accents mingled with gunflint bitterness and some citric spice. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with pleasant bitter minerality mingled with citric acidity and some greenish brambly accents that provide depth, while the finish is quite savory. Pleasant in a slightly softer middle of the road key, and will work well as an aperitif or with white meats or fish.
2 stars

Melini - GIV Poggio a Rosi Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pale pink with rosy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by hints of roses and some citric acidity, which adds depth. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some greenish accents, and by tannins that are smooth and sweet and light, flowing into a bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with picnic foods.
2 stars

Cà del Vispo

Cà del Vispo Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and spice, and some gunflint as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory minerality supported by lemony acidity and sea salt, which flow into a bright savory finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich key, and will work very well with foods.
2 stars

Cà del Vispo Vigna in Fiore Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Brassy gold with white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with butterscotch and spice supported by slight scalded milk and some acidity, and by some spicy mentholated accents, and as it opens nice honeysuckle too. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by slight honeysuckle sweetness, savory tannins and some bitter notes that flow into a fairly long tart savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with elegant fish dishes.
2 stars

Cà del Vispo Segumo IGT Toscana 2008
Pale brassy straw yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with haunting greenish vegetal accents with some gooseberry notes supported by heather and warm savory gunflint and gunflint acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish white berry fruit supported by tart lemony acidity and by warm savory accents that flow into a decidedly savory finish with dome flinty minerality that's quite long. It's charged, a wine that will work well with foods as opposed to by the glass (unless you really like these kinds of savory accents), and in terms of accompaniments will be good with flavorful things such as fish stew.
2 stars

Fattoria Poggio Alloro

Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and heather mingled with minerality and slight gunflint; deft with nice balance though quite young. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich lemony mineral fruit supported by mineral acidity and some spice, and also savory notes that flow into a fairly long savory finish with some hints of loquat and bitter almond. Pleasant in an ample rather languid key, and will do a nice job of supporting simple summer dishes without demanding center stage.
2 stars

Fattoria Poggio Alloro Le Mandorle Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Deep greenish gold with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with butterscotch and some sweetness mingled with slight wood smoke and slight butterscotch-laced acidity. Fairly international in style. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense lemony fruit supported by gunflint minerality and a smooth richness that derives from oak, which tamed the acidity considerably, and it flows into a clean butterscotch laced mineral citric finish. Pleasant in a modern key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Fattoria Poggio Alloro IGT Toscana 2009
Pale brassy green with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and slight hints of banana peel with a slight greenish underpinning. On the palate it's direct, and mineral, with some mineral acidity and slight floral accents, and flows into a fairly direct mineral finish. I'd have liked more acidity and verve; it's rather settled.
1 star

Mormoraia

Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and sea salt supported by some smoke and hints of stable straw; it's a bit more rustic than some but does have something to say. On the palate it's ample and languid, with loquat fruit supported by bitterness and minerality ,and some loquat acidity that flows into a fairly long savory finish with lasting mineral warmth. It's a bit more particular than some, and is a wine you will like if you like the style.
1 star

Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Pale brassy greenish gold with white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some butterscotch supported by greenish notes and some sea salt, but not much fruit nor acidity. On the palate it's a bit brighter than expected, with sour lemon fruit supported by greenish notes and some spice, and it all flows into a clean rather mineral finish. A bit more depth and elegance might have been nice; it's a touch settled.
1 star

Casale Falchini

Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and brassy rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality. It's not really ready yet, and needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid lemony fruit supported by herbal accents and bitter almond bitterness, while there are tannins that have slight bitter savory notes to them, and flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish. It's pleasant, and when the nose catches up with the palate, in a year, it will be rather nice in a well thewed key. It needs time.
2 stars

Casale Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with honeysuckle mingled with butterscotch and clover honey, and there are also hints of sweet dried apricots. Intense in a ripe key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with gunflint laced minerality and some citric fruit supported by slight tannins that have peppery accents and flow into a clean savory finish with lasting warmth and underlying minerality. Pleasant, and will drink well either with foods or as an aperitif, and in a few years' time it will be nice by the glass too.
2 stars

Fattoria Abbazia Monteoliveto

Fattoria Abbazia Monteoliveto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with the heather of a Tuscan field in summer mingled with minerality and some bitterness. Nice balance and graceful though also young. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by bitter minerality and sea salt that flow into a fairly long savory finish with a deft mineral underpinning that has some gunflint bitterness to it. Quite pleasant in a mineral key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Fattoria Abbazia di Monteoliveto Gentilesca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeysuckle laced loquat that gains depth from brambly accents and some bitter almond bitterness, while there are also hints of graphite shavings and greenish almost artichoke stem-laced savory accents. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with ample loquat fruit that is supported by peppery spice and some loquat laced acidity, and flows into a rather languid loquat fruit finish with savory mineral underpinning and lasting warmth. It's a little bigger than some, and a touch laxer too.
1 star

Il Lebbio

Il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with loquat and bitter gunflint mingled with greenish accents and some heather. On the palate it's savory, with some minerality and slight hops mingled with sea salt and citric acidity that flows into a savory fairly citric finish. It's ample and fairly direct, and revolves more around minerality than acidity, though there is quite enough of the latter to keep it on its toes and moving along. It will work well with foods, and be quite versatile at table, though you shouldn't expect something crisp and linear.
2 stars

Il Lebbio Tropie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Brassy yellow with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeysuckle and lemony acidity mingled with some greenish vegetal accents and a slight sea salt underpinning. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by deft citric acidity and some bitter accents, while the tannins have a slight flinty burr and flow into a clean flinty citric finish. Pleasant in a rather citric key, nicely balanced by gunflint, and will work well with hearty fish or white meat dishes, and also age well for several years. It has interesting things to say.
2 stars

Signano

Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is unusual, with pineapple fruit that's quite ripe, and some greenish vegetal accents supported by spice. On the palate it's more of the same, with pineapple fruit supported by minerality and sea salt, and by slight peppery accents that tingle the tongue, and flow into a fairly long mineral finish. It's not quite what I expect from Vernaccia -- tropical fruit isn't normal -- but does have a pleasing zestiness to it, and flows into a clean savory tropical fruit laced finish.
2 stars

Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with butterscotch mingled with yellow berry fruit and some greenish accents, also some savory notes. On the palate it's mineral, with moderate white berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, bringing to mind struck granite, and flows into a savory mineral finish. It's a touch settled, and a little more acidity would have helped it to perk up some.
1 star

Signano Poggiarelli Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale greenish brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. Looks cool, somehow. The bouquet is delicate, with honeysuckle laced citric acidity supported by some bitter almond blossoms and almond skins, and by slight gunflint. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich, fairly full lemony fruit supported by bitterness and slight tannins that have a flinty granitic feel to the, and flow into a fairly long citric finish with a savory flinty underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink well with fish or white meats, and could also be pressed into service with rich fish-based pasta sauces, including more powerful fish stews such as cacciucco.
2 stars

Signano Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pink with rose pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with floral accents and some forest berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity. On the palate it's fresh, and lively, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are light,a nd flow into a fairly long tart finish. It's a fine picnic or summer foods wine, and because of the brightness of the fruit and lightness of the tannins will perhaps be a good bet with oriental dishes too.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Calcinaie

Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy yellow with greenish golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and sea salt mingled with some citric fruit and slight tropical accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid tropical fruit and loquat supported by minerality and savory acidity that flow into a fairly long mineral finish.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vigna ai Sassi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some vegetal notes mingled with sea salt and some spice, and also some gunflint and hints of honey and cut apple. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright white berry fruit supported by savory accents and some spice, and flow into a fairly long savory finish. It's a touch soft, and is also quite ample; it's a wine that will work well with foods but I'd have preferred greater tightness and acidity to drink it by the glass. Personal preference, and yours may differ.
1 star

Poderi Arcangelo

Poderi Arcangelo Terra del Lago Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2010
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with delicate floral notes mingled with bitter almonds, sea salt, and some citric acidity. Nice depth and still young. On the palate it's ample and fairly languid, with pleasant minerality supported by gunflint bitterness and some mineral acidity, which flow into a fairly long clean bitter mineral finish with a pleasant savory underpinning. One can taste the ground of the vineyard, almost. It will work nicely as an aperitif, and with more delicately flavored fish or white meats, and I might also be tempted to serve it with sushi or a fish capraccio.
2 stars

Montenidoli

Montenidoli Tradizionale Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Deep brassy gold with golden highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is intense, with honeysuckle and butterscotch mingled with minerality and some spice, with considerable heather as well. On the palate it's mineral, with mineral acidity and some butterscotch laced warmth, and also fairly pronounced gunflint bitterness, which flow into a clean bitter savory finish. It's a touch more direct than some, and also revolves more around savory minerality and less around fruit driven acidity, though this doesn't mean it's not on its toes, because it very much is. If you like the style, which is quite muscular, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Montenidoli Fiore Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2009
Brassy yellowish gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some butterscotch and some savory notes mingled with slight spice and greenish accents coupled with heather. On the palate it's bright, with intense lemony citric supported by peppery spice and some bitterness, and also by savory accents that flow into a fairly long savory finish with minerality and some citric acidity. It's quite deft and will drink nicely with foods, and will also age well for many years.
2 stars

Montenidoli Carato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is deft, with delicate butterscotch supported by equally delicate citric accents and some greenish vegetal notes; there's great harmony and control and very nice finesse too. Impressive. On the palate it's rich and full, with terrific harmony between lemony fruit and deft gunflint minerality that provides support and direction without being overbearing and flows into a long savory lemon laced finish with just a hint of oak to provide direction and smoothness. A beautiful wine of the kind one hates to pour out at a tasting, and that at table will work very well with delicate fish or white meats -- you won't want an overlay brash dish lest it distract you from the wine, and in a few years you'll want to drink it with appreciative friends far from the table.
90-92

Montenidoli Il Tempalre IGT Toscana 2007
Fairly deep straw yellow with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with butterscotch supported by sea salt and savory notes, and by some underlying lemony fruit, though what really comes across at present is the oak, which also has savory bitter accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense lemony fruit laced with butterscotch and supported by savory notes that flow into a fairly long savory finish with a slight butterscotch underpinning and some gunflint minerality as well. It's pleasant, displaying considerable finesse in a savory slightly more oaked key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much even now, though I would give it time -- a couple of years at least to absorb the oak, because it has the potential to age well.
2 stars

Montenidoli Canaiuolo Rosato IGT Toscana 2010
Pale salmon with rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit, some sour and some cassis, supported by some vegetal notes and spice, and also by some sea salt. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by zesty acidity and some savory accents that flow into a clean savory fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and will work quite well with simple grilled meats, especially white meats, and also has the acidity necessary to work with fried meats and vegetables, or also fried fish. Versatile in a slightly aggressive key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars