Garantito IGP: Byodynamic Primitivo di Manduria -- Lisa Gilbee and the Defence of the Alberello Style

This time Luciano takes the stand:

Lisa Gilbee and Gaetano Morella came to biodynamics though love. First of all that that grew between a young Australian winemaker who came to Italy for a stage, and later for their children, who were enrolled in the Sternian school of Manduria, the only one of its kind in the South. Thus, from the need to raise their children well came the desire to leave the lands they bought in Manduria better than they found them.

To begin at the beginning, in conventional agriculture grass between the vines is the first sign of abandonment. In biodynamic agriculture it instead indicates healthy soils.

Gaetano has me get into his car and we slowly leave the cement of Manduria to enter, as if in a dream, in vineyards, them Mediterranean scrub forest, and finally among the Alberello, or bush-pruned vines that yield 20-25 quintals per hectare , except in 2011, when yields dipped below 20 for the first time.

Lisa and Gaetano settled upon bush pruning because it is only by concentrating on the biodiversity present in the vineyards that one can think of the future in the currant, ever smaller global wine market. The relationship between bush and espalier pruning is the same as that between stone and cement houses. In other words, since the 60s cement has become popular because it's more practical, less expensive, and often dominated by organized crime, and therefore has devastated the hearts of a great many historic cities and towns. In like manner, the Alberello system is being fought by the authorities, who finance those who rip it out and replant to the spalleira system.

It is obvious that the selection of the pruning system shouldn't be dictated by ideology, but just as obvious that it shouldn't be legislated. Rather, it should be dictated by the land, climate and wine that one wants to make.

Now, with their more than 14 hectares, which are almost all together in a single block, they have the largest vineyard area in Manduria. And to return to our architectural simile, their situation is that of a stone house surrounded by cement buildings in a city.

Gaetano, son and grandson of farmers, says that their goal is to return to the craft practiced by his grandfather, following the foray into chemistry of his father's generation. Organic and conventional are not that different in terms of mindset, because they both expect the plants to feed themselves regardless. Byodynamics instead give the vines the opportunity to do so, but don't force it.

From their land in rural Manduria Lisa and gaetano make Primitivo Old Vines, a wine of considerable energy that is quite long lived, evolving with time.

In 2008 it was declared a Slow Wine. We enjoyed the 2009, which was still aging in bottle, as its release is scheduled for this July.

Oak and fruit are well integrated, the nose is rich with heady ripe fruit, hints of Mediterranenan scrub forest, and carob. On the palate it displays terrific energy, freshness, and length; it's concentrated but not heavy, sweet but not cloying, and has a long pleasantly dry finish that makes it easily pairable with foods.

Lisa and Gaetano's new project, given how packed they are in their garage sized cellar, is to build something new in the heart of the vineyards, to give their Primitivo an even better opportunity to express itself in a manner that's not forced, but rather natural, direct, immediate, and clear.

Another story of the South, where the vineyards make the best of its drawbacks: stubbornness and individuality.


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Wandering Puglia: After Vinicola Savese, the Consorzio...

It was still raining when we departed Vinicola Savese, and drove to the Consorzio Produttori Vini Maestri in Primitivo (see also this page), Manduria's cooperative winery. A distinct change of pace; the structure is huge -- 400 growers confer grapes -- and as you enter, to the left you'll find the area dedicated to the sale of vini sfusi, bulk wines: People bring their own containers, which the staff behind the counter fill using pumps that rather resemble gas pumps. The wine is priced according to alcohol content -- the stronger wines are more expensive, and some of the clients tailor their purchase to their palates, asking that their containers be filled with so much of this and so much of that.

Business was brisk, and it was nice to see how many people came to buy wine while we were there.

Of course the Consorzio does much more than sell wine in bulk: They make many bottled wines, and also have a fascinating farm culture museum that is well worth a visit even for those who don't drink wine at all.

We tasted through most of the Consorzio's wines, including those sold in bulk, and also tasted the wines kindly brought by a number of other producers. It was a very nice visit. The wines:

Sereno IGT salento Bianco 2009
This is a tank sample, to be bottled in 2 weeks. The wine is an 80-20 blend of Fiano and Verdeca. It's brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite fresh for a barrel sample, with pleasant floral accents and considerable sweetness; a fellow taster says confected, and it's quite approachable in a sweet key. On the palate it's rich and sweet with honeydew melon mingled with citric acidity and clean very green acidity that flow into a clean melony finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods; it seems sweeter than it is and this is in part a characteristic of the Fiano. A good wine to drink as an aperitif or by the glass, and if you like fairly sweet soft whites you will like it.
1 star

Amoroso IGT Salento Rosato 2009
This is a Negroamaro, and not yet bottled. It's pale pomegranate red and pink reflections. The bouquet is candied, with bubblegum and cherry fruit supported by some herbal accents. On the palate it's ample and moderately rich, with sour berry fruit supported by bubblegum sweetness that goes into a fairly ling finish with savory accents. Fresh, young and direct.

Gioviale: this is a 2009 Vino Sfuso, or bulk wine that's 15.5% alcohol; it's sold from November through December (1000 quintali, 10,000 cases) and people line up to buy it. It's deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and jammy with cherry plum fruit that's fairly sweet. Sweet on the palate too, with prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a sweet finish. A classic strong jug wine, and quite clean, will drink well with foods but is strong.

Primitivo Secco is their primary vino sfuso, of which they make 4,000 Quintali -- 40,000 cases -- and we tasted the 2008. It's deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim, and has a fairly bright bouquet with red berry fruit and some plum mingled with deft greenish accents. On the palate it's fairly light, with clean slightly bitter prune cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's a classic house wine, something one would expect to find by the carafe in a trattoria, and drinks quite well in a simple, direct upfront key.

Neama IGT Negroamaro 2008
Lively pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Direct, up front, and bright eyed; more swishing also reveals some sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a slight cedary feel from grapes, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Simple, direct, and clean, an unpretentious wine that will drink quite well with foods. Perfect with a burger and you will want a second bottle.
1 star

Memoria Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is 14% alcohol; it's deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim The bouquet is moderately intense, and has prune fruit supported by dusky acidity and some graphite shaving bitterness, also leafy underbrush, and some acidity. On the palate it's ample, soft and smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight burr and some acidity, which flow into a smooth rather bitter finish. No residual sugars here, and no overextraction; it's rather vinous and correct, and will drink well with foods.
2 stars

Lirica Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This spends a time in small wood. The wine is deep pyrope with pyrope that has slight almandine accents in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by slight cedar and hints of nutmeg, and also greenish acidity with hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense prune fruit supported by savory accents and spice. Nice balance; it's fairly direct and will do a fine job of supporting what it's served with -- simple grilled meats or light stews. Nothing cloying nor overextracted about it, and it is easy to drink.
1 star

Elegia Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is aged in barriques for a time. It's impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by slight sweetness and hints of licorice. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. Direct, and will drink well with foods; it's not overly rich and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Primitivo Amabile Sfuso 2008
Another wine the Consorzio sells in bulk. Deep pyrope with purple reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with plum fruit laced with slight licorice and a fair amount of sweetness. On the palate it's sweet, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a dusky cedary burr and flow into a fairly long bitter finish that keeps the wine from being cloying. They say it's what their parents drank, and again goes to show that sweet wines were once part of the tradition. One that should, I think, be revived.

Madrigale Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is sweet, and is lively ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by licorice root and spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather licorice-laced prune finish with considerable sweetness. A pleasant dessert wine.
2 stars

Madrigale Oro Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry plum fruit supported by some gum Arabic and licorice root, and a fair amount of sugar that's not quite brown, but in that direction. With time the Gum Arabic surrenders to nutmeg and some spice. On the palate it's ample and sweet with fairly rich plum fruit supported by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a clean sweet prune finish with a distinctly greenish tannic underpinning. With respect to the straight Madrigale it's more charged, and I found it more aggressive and a little less well balanced.
1 star

After tasting the Consorzio Produttori Vini Maestri in Primitivo's wines, we tasted those of a number of other wineries, some that are well established, and others that are just getting started.

Tenuta Giuseppe Ciraci

This estate used to make table grapes, but decided to shift over to wine. This is their first vintage.

Tenuta Giuseppe Ciraci Primorosato IGT Salento
Non-vintage, but a 2009. This is their first wine. Lively salmon ruby with pomegranate accents, and brilliant electric pink highlights. It's a Negroamaro, and the bouquet is intriguing, and very young, with vegetal accents mingled with heather and menthol, also some sweetness. On the palate it's fresh and young, with sour berry fruit that has some bitter orange accents, and slight milky overtones. Very young, and needs another few months. It will drink nicely this summer.
1 star

Tenuta Giuseppe Ciraci Primorosso IGT Salento
Non-vintage, but a 2009. The wine is deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with lively very sweet cherry fruit supported by jammy mentholated accents. It gives an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's ample, with moderate sour berry fruit -- it's not as sweet as the nose suggests -- supported by clean rather bitter tannins that flow into a bitter finish. It's a bit rough around the edges, but will drink well with succulent meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Felline

Felline Rufiano Salento Bianco IGT 2008
This is a Fiano Minutolo; they call it Rufiano because Puglia doesn't allow people to use Fiano for Fiano Minutolo. This is the first vintage, from 3-year old vines. It's brilliant brassy yellow with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with candied citron with some underlying minerality. Intriguing On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich lemony fruit that has some orange accents, and flows into a long citric finish with slightly greenish tannic underpinning. It's not as tight as I might have liked, but does display a certain grace, and because of its lively acidity it will drink well with rich foods such as fried fish or grilled fish.
2 stars

Felline Sinfarosa Zinfandel 2006 Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This has some Zinfandel, cuttings of which the winemaker brought from the US in his suitcase and planted a dozen years ago. It's deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with spicy savory accents and some nutmeg mingled with prune fruit and some cedar-laced spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet oaky tannins that have a dusky burr, and by moderate acidity that lead into a fairly aggressive tart peppery finish. Pleasant, aggressive, and quite young; it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Zicari

Tenuta Zicari Patruale Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim with purple overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents and succulent red berry fruit with slight dusky accents. Fresh. On the palate it's ample, and quite young, with fairly rich prune cherry fruit supported by some sugars and by tannins that have a peppery sparkle, and by moderate graphite shaving bitterness that becomes savory with time. Pleasant in a youthful key and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Zicari Pezza Pedrosa IGT Puglia Rosso 2006
This is 85-15 Primitivo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep black almandine with brich rim and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by prune and some bitter underbrush. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by deft prune acidity and by some sugars, but not so many that it's cloying, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet dusky berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and though the Cabernet Sauvignon isn't invasive it does contribute, and the wine is quite approachable in a fairly international key.
2 stars

Azienda Mille Una

Azienda Mille Una Capitolo Laureto Negroamaro IGT 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit and warmth mingled with some vanilla and cedar. Nice balance and fairly rich in a very young key. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by slight sweetness and by tannins that are warm and cedar laced, and flow into a warm smooth finish with some jammy strawberry accents that carry at length. Quite fresh, and quite young, and will drink well with roasts or stews, though it will also age well for a number of years.
2 stars

Azienda Mille Una Tetrarante Salento IGT Primitivo 2007
17% Alcohol. It's inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with very ripe prune fruit laced with cedar shavings and licorice root; it's a brooding presence in the room. Impressive, and as it opens prune jam emerges too. A great lot going on. On the palate it's full, with rich plum prune fruit supported by alcohol, which confers sweetness, and by some residual sugar that adds softness and jaminess, and by tannins that have a cedary feel to them that brings coffee and cola to mind, and flow into a long sweet prune finish. It's impressive in a very charged, concentrated key, a huge wine that will take no quarter: Either you will like it or you will find it over the top. A fellow taster says, "Lush is fine in certain circumstances."
2 stars

Vetrere

Vetrere Taranta Salento Rosato IGT 2008
This is a blend of Negramaro and Malvasia, and is dusky pink -- not quite red enough for pomegranate -- with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some licorice root, and by some underlying sweetness. On the palate it's softer than I might have expected, with bubble-gum laced red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some tannins that flow into a clean slightly green sweetish fruit laced finish.
1 star

Vetrere Cre Salento Fiano IGT 2008
This is a Fiano Minutolo. It's brassy gold with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite aromatic, with strong mentholated greenish spicy notes that bring Brylcreem to mind Interesting, and particular. On the palate it's soft and fairly sweet with mentholated lemon fruit supported by sweetness and moderate acidity that flow into a rather soft finish. I'd have liked more tightness to it.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Macchiarola

Az ag Macchiarola Uno di Noi Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
This is a new winery, and the vineyard (6 ha) is from 2005. This is their second vintage. In steel. Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm prune cherry fruit supported by leafy underbrush and some cedar-laced spice from grapes. Quite pleasant, in a youthful key, with pleasant complexity. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by peppery tannins from grape, that flow into a clean peppery fruit laced tannic finish. A nice expression of Primitivo, and though the vines are young it has quite a bit to say. Future vintages will be quite interesting, especially if they continue along this oakless path.
2 stars

Cantine Capuzzimati

Cantine Capuzzimati Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007
14.5% Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry prune fruit supported by dusky leafy underbrush and some cedar, and hints of licorice root. Quite young. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by dusky bitter graphite shavings and some spice, Deft, and young, and still developing, Nice depth, though it is a tad aggressive in its youth; this is in a tasting situation, and the aggressiveness will vanish by a steak. If you like wines that have a bitter cast you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Vigne e Vini

Vigne e Vini Schiaccianoci Negoramaro IGT 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by underbrush and dried leaves, which opens to reveal some greenish accents and hints of orange skin. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly cedar-laced finish. I found it a bit oaky, even though we were told it only spends a few months in oak.
1 star

Vigne e Vini Moi Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with dusky black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is powerful, and smoky, with considerable pungency and some cedar, but not that much fruit, and the oak is overshadowing everything. The palate reflects the nose; it's rich and fruit driven but has a lot of oak that somewhat blunts it.
1 star

Antiche Terre del Salento

Their vineyards are pruned in the Alberello, or shrub style, and are 60-70 years old. Until 2004 they were part of the Cantina Sociale, of which they were founding members.

Antiche Terre del Salento Feudo del Conte Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and purple cherry rim. This spends several months in wood, and has a bouquet with powerful smoky cedar and underlying prune fruit; the cedar covers the fruit at present, though there must be quite a bit for some to manage to emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by milky acidity and by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean prune finish. Pleasant though it's quite young, and needs another year or two, and -- for me -- the wood is rather invasive. If you like the style you will like it very much.
2 stars

Antiche Terre del Salento Cerva Regia Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine cherry rim. The bouquet is impressive, and quite rich, with cherry prune fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents with hints of licorice and rubber that are laced with jammy accents. On the palate it's full and smooth with bright prune fruit supported by deft prune acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight leafy underpinning and flow into a long warm finish. Quite pleasant, in a rather feisty key, and will work very well with red meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age nicely for 5-10 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cantine Soloperto
This was the first estate to bottle Primitivo di Manduria.

Cantine Soloporto Rubinum Primitivo di Manduria 2008
This is 17% alcohol, and is semi-secco, with 7 g/liter of sugar. It's impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by plums and hints of cumin and gum Arabic. Interesting and still very young. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by plum acidity and peppery tannins that flow into a peppery prune finish with some underlying sweetness, Pleasant, but needs another year or two; at present it's in mid stride, and despite the alcohol content and concentration it isn't there yet.
2 stars

Giovanni Soloperto Petrose N.1 Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
This is with indigenous yeasts, and they also put some stems in the tank because they liked them. This is the first vintage for this vineyard. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and impressive, with jammy plum fruit supported by clean vegetal accents and pleasant spice, laced with some licorice root and hints of cumin. Great depth. On the palate it's drier than one might have expected, with warm licorice laced prune fruit supported by warmth and sweet slight green tannins that have a youthful burr and flow into a clean frankly bitter finish. Impressive in an extreme key; it's very much a niche wine, and if you like the style -- it's very aggressive -- you will like it. But you have to like the style, and it takes no quarter.
2 stars

Cantine Attanasio

Attanasio Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some jammy prune fruit laced with bitter cocoa and some spice, and underlying sweetness. A fair amount going on in a warm spicy key. On the palate it's rich, with ample prune fruit supported by prune laced acidity and tannins that have a slight cedar laced burr and are fairly splintery and dry. The finish is fairly long, with plum accents and lasting warmth. Pleasant in a very rich style, though it will profit from another year or two. By comparison with many other Primitivi, this has enough concentration to stand up to the wood.
2 stars

Attanasio Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with prune fruit laced with licorice and some spice, and has some jammy accents. On the palate it's full and rich, with prune cherry fruit supported by clean sweet acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that clean fresh prune finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sip, with a great lot to say. Impressive.
88-90

Cantine Le Fabbriche

Le Fabbriche Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and some cedar overlaying prune fruit and some savory accents. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with prune cherry fruit supported by moderate bitter prune acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish. It's quite young, and I'd have liked a little more depth to it -- she said some of the vineyards are quite young, and this has an impact upon the wine, which comes across as thinner than it will in a few years, when the vineyards have more time under their belts.
1 star

Le Fabbriche Emmaus AP Aglianico Puglia IGT 2005
This is from a selection of Aglianico; it's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar-laced berry fruit and some underbrush that are supported by smoky notes. Lots of oak. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a warm tannic finish. Quite pleasant, but very young, and needs another 2-3 years to come together. Also, the vineyards are quite young, and it has great potential for the future. In short, a wine to keep an eye out for, and to look for future vintages of.
2 stars


Alessandro Carrozzo
They have 10 hectares, and started to bottle in 2001. Before then they sold the wine in bulk.

Alessandro Carrozzo Carminio Rosso IGT 2007
This is a Negroamaro, from 70 year-old vines trained in the Alberello style. Lively almandine ruby black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with lively sweet prune cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and some peppery spice with underlying minerality. Quite pleasant, On the palate it's full and rich, with vinous cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish licorice accents, and is supported by clean spicy tannins with warm peppery mineral accents and some underlying green licorice that flows into a clean mineral finish with tart berry fruit. Bracingly alive, and will drink very, very well with grilled meats or roasts, and will also be nice with game. It also has the capacity to age well for many years. Beautiful harmony and very pleasant to drink.
88-90

Alessandtro Carrozzo Krasi Primitivo del Salento IGT 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry violet rim. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with mineral laced prune fruit that has some jammy accents and prune jam, and hints of nutmeg as well. Great finesse. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet prune fruit supported by some sweetness, minerality, and dusky bitterness that provides direction and keeps it on its toes. Pleasant, and very nice; it will drink very well with drier meats, for example roast pork loin. A beautiful, rather languid expression of Primitivo, well worth seeking out.
2 stars

L'Astore Masseria

The Benegiamo family has owned the Masseria since 1930. They have 14 hectares of new vineyards around the Masseria, in addition to 6 hectares of vineyards trained in the Alberello style in other parts of the province of Lecce. They get their white grapes from growers in Alberobello.

L'Astore Masseria Filimei Negroamaro IGT Salento 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some brambly underbrush and delicate spice from grapes, also some alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a lively rather zesty key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews. Harmonious too, and a nice balance between fruit, acidity, and tannins. All the pieces are well in place. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

L'Astore Masseria Jèma Primitivo Salento IGT 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with prune fruit supported by delicate slightly bitter floral accents and some cedar from grapes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich bright prune cherry fruit supported by fairly rich acidity, and dusky tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a savory, peppery tannic finish. It's slightly lacking in fruit, and as a result the tannins step in a little more than I might have liked, doing a good job, but in an angry sort of way. This in a tasting situation; it is a food wine that must be served with foods, and in the face of a hearty venison stew the music would be different. But it is aggressive, a little too aggressive for me.
1 star

Wandering Puglia: Gioia del Colle DOC

My trip to Puglia, continued: It was late afternoon, and cold and windy by the time we arrived at the Distilleria Cassano in Gioia del Colle. Not to taste distillates -- the Cassano family ceased operations years ago and donated the structure, which is quite beautiful, to the town, which is now transforming it into an exhibition area -- but rather the wines of the Gioia del Colle Appellation, and more specifically Primitivo.

Why Primitivo? Because the varietal is said to have first been identified in Gioia del Colle, towards the end of the 1700s, by Francesco Indellicati, a parish priest who went into a vineyard, selected a vine whose grapes ripened early, calling it Primativo because of this characteristic, and planted cuttings it at Liponti, a hamlet in the township of Gioia del Colle.

The farmers working with the varietal quickly realized that in addition to ripening early, Primitivo starts its vegetative cycle much later than most other varietals. Considering Goia del Colle's location, in the heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the high plains that form Puglia's backbone, which often suffer devastating late spring frosts), this characteristic was just as important as early ripening, as it meant that the vines were much less vulnerable than others. Primitivo rapidly spread throughout the highlands, becoming one of Puglia's most important grapes.

But what is Primitivo? Obviously, since Francesco Indellicati selected it from an extant vineyard, it had been growing there for a while, and some have gone so far as to suggest that its name, Primitivo, also refers to its being the original grape. This is of course an exaggeration, and now researchers from America (drawn to Primitivo because of its close resemblance to Zinfandel) and elsewhere have concluded that Primitivo (and Zinfandel) derive from an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski. Since Croatia boasts several close relatives to Crljenak Kaštelanski, whereas Puglia's Primitivo lacks close relatives, it is likely that someone, centuries ago, brought cuttings of Crljenak Kaštelanski to Puglia and planted them, discovering that they were much better suited to Puglia's climate and soils than they were to Croatia's.

And this brings us to the wines. As I said, Primitivo ripens early; the harvest is generally in early September, and the resultant wines tend to be powerful. Inky purple is a common color, while the fruit balance tends towards lush chewy ripe prune and dried prune, with underlying sweetness, and moderately intense smooth soft tannins. Acidities tend to be low, and one would expect this given the ripeness achieved by the grapes.

These are Puglian grapes that ripen under the fierce Puglian sun, and sugar contents -- and therefore alcohol levels -- tend to be high; 14-15% is quite normal, and those who aim for more concentration and greater ripeness can reach 18%. This in wines that are dry, and to be frank I found myself preferring the less alcoholic wines to the 18% crowd, which I found rather strident. Oak use varies from producer to producer; some use large wood and steel, and other small oak. I personally prefer steel and large oak because they have less impact upon both fruit and acidity. I find small oak to be more likely to overshadow the nuances of the grape, and to add polish that is really not necessary, especially if the grapes are harvested quite ripe, with lower initial acidities.

There is also something called Primitivo Dolce, which ferments to 18% alcohol, at which point the yeasts give up, but retains sufficient residual sugar to be semi-sweet to sweet. These can be quite nice, as sugar and (richer) fruit remain in play, balancing the alcohol. Sipping wines, something to be savored the way one might a Recioto or a Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, and something to look into, if you like this style. These sweeter wines also have the capacity to age quite well, for a decade or more.

The Wines, Tasted on November 30, 2009

Azienda Agricola Fatalone
Fatalone Bianco Spinomarino Puglia IGT Greco
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral with some hints of gunflint and tart slightly sour citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by some minerality and gunflint bitterness that flow into a long warm bitter tart finish that becomes more savory in the finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. If you like smoother more international wines it won't work as well for you, but I rather enjoyed it. Nice scrappy character.
2 stars

Fatalone Gioia del Colle DOC Primitivo 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and wood smoke mingled with slight balsamic notes and some cherry fruit. A bit rustic, but pleasant in this key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm spicy, almost petillant burr, and flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that becomes savory as it fades. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Vini Coppi
Coppi Siniscalco Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, more swishing brings up balsamic notes and some wet leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a rather green savory finish. It's a little tired, though not quite oxidized.
1 star

Cantine Lanzolla
Cantine Lanzolla Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by some cedar and a certain airiness that brings sweetness to mind. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have an angry smoky burr, and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. It's quite aggressive, but if you like the style, which is fairly rustic, will work very well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Patruno Perniola
Battaglio Primitivo Rosso Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with fruit that's overshadowed by oak to a considerable degree, said oak emerges as coffee laced with vanilla, and carries on at length. Too much oak on what was a good base, I think.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit laced with balsam and wood smoke, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a distinct smoky overlay and some acidity, and flow into a smoky finish. It's quite charged, and there is ample raw material, but it is to a degree masked by wood.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with not much fruit. The palate is pleasant in a rather wild key, with strong savory minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish with some hazelnut overtones. It's a touch over the top for me.
1 star

Cantine di Scj'o
Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with red name, 13.5% alcohol. Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful rather cheeky key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with white name, 14.5% alcohol. Impenetrable pyrope with purplish garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with some greenish accents and hints of marzipan; it comes across as being charged. On the palate it's, well, flabby: there's ample soft rather sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an angry smoky burr and flow into a smoky finish. Something odd happened and it is like a fat man who has slipped and is sitting in a puddle: Yes, it makes a splash, but something is off.
1 star

Cantine del Colle
Cantine del Colle Falco Grillaio Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of alcohol and some warmth, and spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite savory, with quite a bit of cedar as well, which overshadows most everything.

Cantine del Colle Gioa del Colle Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable alcohol and moderate fruit supported by some minerality and wet leaves, and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcoholic warmth and with tannins that have a deft cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more rustic key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuliani Raffaele
Giuliani Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky spice and some graphite shavings; it has a brooding quality to it that I rather enjoy, and also hints of licorice root. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smoky tannins and wood smoke acidity that flow into a long balsamic finish with wood smoke and hints of animal hair blended into the fruit. Quite elegant, and will work very wellw ith succulent meats.
2 stars

Giuliani 1922 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
This is a sweet Pirmitivo; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance, and invites repeated sniffs; with more sniffs some vegetal accents and green peppers also emerge. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that combines sweetness with savory accents. Pleasant, though I found it to be a little short; it's a wine that will drink very well with cheeses or that one could simply sip with friends.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cannito
Cannito Scudo Sannita Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Pimitivo, Negroamaro and Montepulciano; it's poured pyrope ink with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cumin and spice, and some cedar as well. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rather dry berry fruit supported by smoky acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish that becomes decidedly savory as the fruit fades. Pleasant if you like the style, which is a bit rustic, and fresh; it will drink well with succulent meats or light stews.
2 stars

Cannito Drùmon Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black brick rim. The bouquet is alcoholic with a fair amount of wood smoke and a degree of cedar as well, mingled with wet leaves and some balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality but not much fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It comes across as trying very hard, but falls short. If it tried less hard I think it would be more successful.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Plantamura
Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and leafy underbrush mingled with plum fruit and some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that have a smooth sweet underpinning and flow into a clean fresh finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and alcohol mingled with wood smoke and slight menthol. It's not as fresh as the base. On the palate it's ample, and hot, with soft sweet plum berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a warm sweet plum berry fruit finish with underlying balsamic notes. I found it more tired than the 2007, and more settled too. It tries hard to be a big wine, and this is not a good thing.
1 star

Cantine Guttarolo
Guttarolo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intriguing, with leathery plum cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and hints of honeycomb mingled with warmth and spice. Pleasant, and invites another sniff. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet dusky tannins that flow into a clean sweet fruit laced peppery finish, and though it may sound strange overtones works well in a charged, very ripe key. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and I found it growing upon me. A quite successful extreme ripening, and a very interesting wine.
86-8**

Pietraventosa
Pietraventosa Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with brick rim that has some almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with mentholated spice and some wet green leather. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; it's harmonious and quite pleasant to drink, though given its power I would pair it with foods rather than drink it by itself. What foods? A hearty stew, or a succulent roast.
2 stars

Pietraventosa Ossimoro Murgia IGT 2005
This is a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and plum fruit supported by some menthol and hints of cumin seed, and also some hazelnut, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright warm sour berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with leathery accents. It0s interesting, and pleasant in a key far far removed from Merlot; it will drink well with roasts or stews and is worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars

Cantine Ferri Purpurius Primitivo Puglia IGT 2008
Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is pleasant for a tank sample, with delicate prune fruit laced with floral accents. Pleasant, and also sweet, with a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite sweet -- almost brings a recioto to mind in terms of sweetness, and with prune fruit to provide backing. It has yet to develop, and we shall see. If it continues as is, it's going to be off the chart, and very particular. Good too, and worth seeking out if you like the style.

Polvanera
Polvanera 16 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
This is strong, 16%, because that's what the sunlight brings. The wine is deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with spice and some mentholated accents, and hints of green leather as well. Also sweetness that is at least in part alcohol. On the palate it's ample and ricvh, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory overlay and flow into a long warm finish; there is also some balsamic acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. It's a massive wine, and as such particular -- a whole swath of people will find it too much -- but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it will do interesting things as it ages too.
2 stars

Polvanera 17 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
This is even stronger, 16.5%, and is from a different vineyard that gets even more sun. The wine is impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft prune fruit supported by hints of menthol and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with underlying jammy accents. Quite harmonious, and interesting to sniff. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some balsamic overtones and flow into a warm cherry balsamic finish with lasting warmth and cedar laced tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, in a massive and over the top key; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but -- as was the case with 16 -- you'll have to like charged sweet alcoholic wines to like it.
2 stars


Chiaromonte
Chiaromonte Muro Sant'Angelo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and alcohol mingled with slight minerality and wet leather, and, if one concentrates, some prune. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into lasting warmth. It comes across as trying too hard, and I found myself wishing it had more depth to the fruit, which is rather angry and, thanks to the tannins, hot.
1 star

Chiaromonte Primitovo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit laced with cumin and cedar, and supported by wood smoke and some leathery accents, with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity and alcohol. Alcohol of the mind-bending variety; the wine is 18% and dry. On the palate it's quite charged, and unbalanced, with moderate fruit that is overshadowed by angry cedary tannins and tremendous warmth that lasts and lasts. It's like something out of a circus sideshow: interesting, perhaps, but in a way that brings a shudder and is not pleasant to drink. At least for me; I found it to be too much.
1 star

Winding down, thanks again to the fine folks at Radici for organizing our trip, and the Comune of Gioia del Colle and the Gioia del Colle DOC Consozio for putting together the tasting, which I very much enjoyed, and learned much from.