Friday, February 26, 2010

A Couple of Wines from Alvio Pestarino

Alvio Pestarino makes Gavi, in the town of Capriata D'Orba (Alessandria), and recently called to ask if I would be interested in tasting the Passito he makes form Cortese, the grape also used tom make Gavi. I said yes, and he sent a bottle, together with a bottle of the 2008 Gavi I tasted this summer. The Gavi has matured some since then, becoming more languid, and was very pleasant.

Alvio Pestarino Gavi 2008 DOCG
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with bitter almond blossoms supported by some honeysuckle and clean underlying spice; it has an airy feel to it. On the palate it's rich, and languid, with pleasant slightly savory minerality laced with hints of pineapple and honeydew melon, and supported by clean honeydew melon acidity with a slight greenish burr flows into a fairly long mineral finish. It's graceful, in a ripe key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif,or with boiled or steamed fish (including Oriental dishes), and will also be nice with delicate white meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Alvio Pestarino Passito Vino Da Tavola
This is made from the Cortese grape, and since the regulations governing Gavi don't contemplate the possibility of making it in a passito form, is bottled as a Vino Da Tavola:
Tawny apricot with amber reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable sugar supported by green apricot bitterness and acidity, and by dried fruit, a combination of figs and nuts mingled with apricot. Quite a bit going on, and as it opens some greenish accents also emerge. Interesting! On the palate it's full, soft, and sweet, with elegant brown sugar sweetness mingled with some walnut skin bitterness and moderate acidity; there isn't as much fruit as I might have expected -- some dried apricot -- and the interplay is mostly between the sweetness and the bitterness, while the acidity is enough to provide steerage but not enough to really take charge. This might sound negative, but the overall impression is one of delicate harmony, and even though I generally prefer more acidity in sweet wines I found myself rather enjoying it.
88-90

Contacting Alvio: He doesn't so far as I can tell, have a web site. But he does have a phone: 338 622 4134.

Campriano: This Year's Wines From Ranuccio Neri

While there are advantages to being disorganized -- A.A. Milne once said, "One of the advantages of being disorganized is that one is always having surprising discoveries" -- There are also disadvantages, and one for me is not tasting wines as soon as I should. Ranuccio Neri's Chianti Colli Senesi is a case in point, and I apologize to both Ranuccio and my readership for having gotten to these as slowly as I did. This year I will be quicker.

Campriano Rosato Toscana IGT 2008

Pale rose with white rim. The bouquet is bright, with roses and floral accents mingled with lively brambly raspberry acidity and bright spice from grapes, and also some alcohol. On the palate it's equally bright, with rich cherry raspberry fruit supported by spice and brambly acidity, and also by light tannins that flow into a clean bright bitter berry fruit finish. Graceful and quite pleasant, a wine that will drink very well as an aperitif or with simple grilled meats, pasta dishes, and also soups. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and brooding, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish balsamic accents with slight sea salt and slight balsamic acidity. Quite a bit going on, but it blends together nicely. On the palate it's ample, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by soft sweet tannins and by moderate balsamic acidity, which flow into a clean bitter finish. It's a wine that plays more with finesse and elegance than power, and if you like the style, which is far from the blockbuster style of winemaking you will find that it works very well with grilled meats or light stews, and also will age well for another 5 years at least, becoming lacy with time. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
88-90

Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG 2007
Lively deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and some barnyard tang, stable straw in particular. Harmonious, and also invigorating. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by slively sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a clean bright greenish berry fruit finish. A light, zesty wine that will drink very well with grilled meats, light stews, and also with fried meats and vegetables. It's what a basic Chianti should be, a wine to set on the table and enjoy.
2 stars

Campriano Vinsanto del Chianti DOC 2003
Tawny amber with brownish reflections and slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is powerful, with dark brown sugar mingled with acidity, spice, and walnut skins. Quite rich, with a lot going on, and harmonious too; it has a power that comes from a hot vintage to it. On the palate it's rich, and very sweet, with elegant creamy brown sugar sweetness laced with slight bitterness, and it all flows into a long sweet finish. It s a child of a hot vintage, clearly, because there isn't much acidity and the sweetness carries it. This said, it is quite pleasant, and if you like this style of Vinsanto, which brings Montepulciano and its sweetness to mind, you will enjoy it.
2 stars


Want to know more about Campriano? Check Ranuccio's Site.

Palazzetto Ardi: Entusiasmo!

Some winemakers are shy,and others less so: Carlo Sitizia contacted me in the course of Vinitaly a few years ago and asked me if I would like to come visit his agriturismo and taste his wines.

During Vinitaly wasn't practical, but I drove over towards Vicenza and was very pleased I did. He and his wife, Michela, have taken over a 14th century farm complex that had become a granary/warehouse, and transformed it into Palazzetto Ardi, a beautiful and dynamic farm. They are completely biodynamic, and Michela somehow found time to become an accomplished chef while tending to crops and critters of all kinds. I have posted a number of her recipes on About.Com, and am very pleased to say that they recently held tastings and a dinner in New York, at the Yale Club.

But the object of this post is of course to talk about their wines.

Entusiasmo di Palazzetto Ardi Rosso IGT Veneto 2006
This is a Cabernet; it's pale ruby with white rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively brambly acidity mingled with greenish vegetal accents and savory notes, and underlain by chewy berry fruit. On the palate it's delicate, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth berry fruit acidity,a nd by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish that becomes bfambly as the fruit, cranberry mingled with cherry, fades. It's an extremely welcoming wine, one that you will set out, and people will drink. At which point you'll need another. What more can I say, other than that it will be perfect with simple grilled meats or light stews? Worth seeking out.
88

Entusiasmo di Palazzetto Ardi Rosso IGT Veneto 2007
This is a Cabernet Franc; it's deeper ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with brambly bitterness and some vegetal accents, which gain depth from brisk acidity and sea salt. Quite harmonious, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bitter vegetal accents and some minerality more than fruit; there's also brambly acidity and the tannins are deft and vigorous. In short, scrappy, and though it won't work for you if you look for the fruit driven smoothness of ripe New World wines, if you prefer a more aggressive style it will drink very well with foods, and go very quickly. A particular wine that's not for everyone, but if you like the style you will like it very much.
88-90

Note: Palazzetto Ardi is imported to the US by Green Grape

Wines from Giorgio Carnevale, Winemaker in Cerro Tanaro

Time was, the farmers of the hills around Alba who grew the grapes used to make Piemonte's renowned wines would tend their vineyards, and at harvest time bring the grapes down to Alba's main square, where the mediatori, or wine merchants, waited to buy the grapes and make the wine. Since then the farmers have become vintners, stars of the agricultural firmament, while most of the merchants are gone.

Most; the town of Cerro Tanaro still boasts the Azienda Giorgio Carnevale, founded by Giorgio's grandfather more than a century ago. Back in those days, the commerce centered around the sale of vino sfuso, wine in bulk, and the units of measurement were primarily the barrel and the demijohn. Giorgio, who got his degree in enology in 1946, was one of the first in the area to realize that it was more important to produce quality than quantity (among other things, this led to bottling the wines). All the Piemontese producers whose names are now household words in the wine industry came to see what he was doing, and his Barolo so impressed the commission charged with drawing up the Barolo DOC regulations in the early 60s that it decreed the wine be produced either within the 5 Comuni where the vineyards are planted -- or at Cerro Tanaro.

"The 60s and 70s were golden decades, but in the 80s conditions changed," said Giorgio's son Alessandro, who now directs the family business. "Many of our suppliers turned their vineyards over to their children, people who had studied enology. They invested heavily to increase quality, struck out on their own, and many have become leading figures." The loss of these long-term suppliers has forced the company to adjust and develop new sources of grapes, which is an on-going process. "We do have some advantages over producers who own their vineyards," he continued. Many landowners, especially those who have inherited the land but have other jobs, are quite happy to sell grapes and have someone else worry about production and wine sales; Alessandro has thus been able to select choice parcels of land throughout the area. "The relationship is based on friendship and trust," he says, observing that quality must be recognized and paid for. In return he asks for careful cultivation, minimal use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and low yields. Come harvest time, the grapes are brought to the company headquarters at Cerro Tanaro, fermented, aged, and bottled.

The production is quite traditional, in the sense that though Alessandro likes Cabernet and Merlot, he is against blending them with the local grapes, either to produce table wines or to add an "international" dimension to Piemontese wines. He feels that doing so introduces an element of distortion: The wines may be good, but are no longer uniquely Piemontese, and are therefore not what he is interested in.

I stopped by the winery on my way home from Piemonte last summer, picked up some samples, and though great fault of my own, and none of Alessandro's, am posting the notes now.

Giorgio Carnevale Moscato d'Asti 2008
Pale greenish brassy yellow with intense perlage that fades to ring the glass. The bouquet is intense, with citrus fruit mingles with gooseberry and fair sweetness that gains depth from some bitter accents. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's full, sweet, and creamy, with elegant regina Claudia plum fruit supported by clean bright acidity, creamy sweetness, and sparkelt hat lends lsight peppery accents, while there is ample bright regina Claudia plum acidity that flows into a long clean finish. Quite nice, and will be perfect at the close of a meal, or with friends far from the table.
88-90

Giorgio Carnevale La Fleisa Vivace De La Rocchetta Freisa d'Asti Secco 2008
Elegant deep ruby with fine perlage that rises, and then things the glass as it settles. The bouquet is rich, with fresh floral accents mingled with dusky bitterness and raspberry. It brings to mind a crisp fall day, somehow, and is quite invigorating. On the palate it's bitter, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by leafy underbrush bitterness and sparkle, which flow into a clean bitter finish. Simple, direct, and a bit of a lark, it's an ideal wine for cold cuts, pizza, and other quickly prepared foods, for example grilled hamburgers. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Giorgio Carnevale Barbera del Monferrato Frizzante DOC 2008
Deep ruby with fine perlage that settles quickly. The bouquet is fresh, and bitter, with some underbrush and dusky berry fruit with savory accents; as it opens delicate floral accents emerge as well. On the palate it's direct, and quite up front, with moderately rich sour berry fruit supported by sparkle and fairly light tannins, while there is moderate acidity as well. It's direct, a simple food wine of the sort one sets out on the table and quickly has to replace, because it will go very well with foods, supporting rather than distracting, and people will drink it. What foods? Quickly grilled meats, simple stews (with polenta) and also pizza or even fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Giorgio Carnevale Grignolino D'Asti DOC 2008
Pale pinkish brick with onionskin fading to white rim, the classic color for Grignolino. The bouquet is brambly, with considerable acidity and some leafy underbrush mingled with tart berry fruit and savory spice. Seems tannic, and this is again typical of Grignolino. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour raspberry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are a tad rough, with a clean warm burr that leads into a long tart finish. It's particular, and Grignolino is; if you like tart wines with high acidities you will enjoy it very much, and it will be perfect with fried meats and vegetables, or grilled meats, especially rich fare such as sausage or chicken with the skin. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Giorgio Carnevale Barbera D'Asti DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by some dusky underbrush and spice from grapes, with hints of graphite shavings and bitterness. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit sipported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins. It's a touch lax, and I'd have liked a little more force to the acidity, which is pronounced, the way one wants in a young unoaked Barbera,but not quite forceful enough. This in a tasting situation; it will drink quite well with foods, however, supporting what it's served with without demanding the limelight.
1 star

Giorgio Carnevale Il Crottino Barbera D'Asti DOC 2000
This is obviously not the most recent vintage, but Alessandro still has some and asked me to try it. Since older Barberas are relatively rare, I was happy to say yes. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit supported by hints of caramel and spice, with underlying cedar too. Nicely balanced,a nd though clearly mature it doesn't come across as old. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has a slight sweet underpinning, which is attributable to the heat that came in August 2000, supported by deft slightly savory balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a graceful bitter cherry finish with graphite shaving underpinnings. To be frank, it's a surprise; it has aged very well, and will be nice with leaner red meats, along the lines of thickly cut rare roast beef. It is particular, but if you like older wines you will enjoy it.
90

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Amarone Anteprima: The 2006 Vintage

There's 's no getting around it, Amarone is going places: The Valpolicella appellation was declared 2009's Winemaking Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast (beating out, among others, Champagne), while the world's counterfeiters recently paid it a backhanded complement of sorts, by trying to slip more than a million bottles of fake Amarone into the world markets. Considering that the total production of Amarone is under 10 million bottles, one has an idea of how highly the criminals valued Amarone.

Truth be told, the counterfeiters may have been trying to take advantage of Amarone's last year as a DOC wine, because the other big development for the Appellation was the attainment of DOCG status, for both Amarone and Recioto. In addition to being more prestigious, DOCG wines are more closely supervised than DOC wines, and bear a fascetta, or band, issued by the Government with codes identifying the winery, bottle size, and other information that would have presented a serious hurdle for people trying to slip a million bottles unnoticed into the markets.

Things are also moving for Amarone from a qualitative standpoint, and in (I think) the right direction. Last year the Appellation announced it would be substantially increasing the number of bottles of Amarone produced to meet heightened demand, and I wrote that this was a bad thing, because the vineyard area of the appellation is fixed, and I doubted it would be able to support an increase in Amarone production while maintaining quality levels.

This year, however, the producers were faced -- like everyone else -- with the economic crunch. A cellar with more of an expensive wine than importers feel they can afford is a winemaker's nightmare, and they moved with surprising speed to cut production, reducing the volume of grapes set aside to dry and become Amarone by 30%. Reducing the volume of dried grapes will reduce the volume of wine produced, avoiding a glut, and should also maintain if not increase quality, because the winemakers will be setting their best grapes aside.

In short, Amarone producers have reacted to the crisis with savvy determination, and I hope they will continue to follow this path when things improve, rather than jack up production with a probable decrease in quality.

So much for 2009. What of 2006, the vintage we were presented?

Let me begin by saying it is a distinct step up from the 2005 vintage presented last year, though it wasn't without its difficulties. The spring started late, and was both cool and damp, factors that delayed budbreak some. And then, during the flowering at the beginning of June, there were heavy rains that damaged the blossoms on some of the vines.

The weather then improved, and was hotter than usual through the rest of June and July, hot enough that the vines began to feel drought stress and ripening began to slow. Repeated August rains took care of this problem, and then the weather cleared and remained clear, with hot days, cool nights, and low humidities through September and October. The winemakers were therefore able to let the grapes ripen completely and harvest them at the optimal moment.

The drying phase, which is equally important for the production of Amarone, was also good, with sunny dry days and nights; drying was uneventful and did not require the use of dehumidifiers. The grapes that went into the tanks were quite high in sugar, with relatively low acidities, and had uniformly sweet ripe tannins. The resultant wines, taken as a group, are strong, with high alcohol contents, have good concentration of fruit and aromas, and are with respect to some other vintages more approachable and readier to drink, though they certainly will benefit from bottle age. The one shadowy note in this otherwise pretty picture is acidity, which is in many cases relatively low, and this is in part due to changes in the Disciplinare, which have allowed the exclusion of Molinara, the traditional third grape of the Valpolicella blend (the other two are Rondinella and Corvina), which was planted primarily because it was more certain to produce than the other two in off vintages, but also contributed -- I have been told -- a measure of acidity. However, the bottom line is that the 2006 Amarone is an interesting wine that will age well, and have quite a bit to say.

This year 65 winemakers presented their wines at the Anteprima, some are well established, well known names, and others are newcomers to the field, but taken as a whole they provided a nice panorama. But not a complete one; a number of the best known producers, including Allegrini, Tommaso Bussola, Quintarelli, and Dal Forno chose not to participate. A pity, because had they participated the picture provided by the Anteprima would have been richer and more faceted.

Before we get to the wines, a few words on the tasting:
The Disciplinare governing the production of Amarone states that the wine must be aged for at least two years before bottling, and in the case of a wine harvested in 2006 this means that those who want to can bottle at the beginning of 2009. And some do. But most prefer to give the wine more time, and some are still waiting. Therefore, we were presented with a mixture of wines, some of which have been in bottle for quite a while (and are on the market), some of which for just a couple of months (and will be released soon), and some that are still in cask, vat, or barrel (and will be released in 2011).

It is very difficult to compare bottled wines and barrel samples, because barrel samples are to a degree like lumps of clay: They can display great, even tremendous potential. But they are not complete, because a great many aspects, especially of the bouquet, develop in the bottle. For this reason I generally do not score barrel samples. However, I am making a partial exception in this case, scoring the barrel samples that showed well, because what is showing well now will presumably continue to show well in the future. As for the barrel samples that are not showing well, I prefer to simply talk about them and wait, because they could improve dramatically (as could the wines that have just a couple of months of bottle age). In other words, though I do give scores, in this case I think the notes and general impressions give a much more accurate picture of the wines.

The Wines, Tasted January 30 2010

Sartori Reius Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is not quite as clean as it might be; there's a hint of mustiness to it mingled with greenish accents and some sour berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by graphite shaving bitterness, while the tannins are ample and soft, and flow into a clean soft bitter finish. I'd have liked a little more definition and backbone to it; it has a languor to it that I would have been happier to find in an older wine. Kids (and these are kids) are supposed to be on their toes.
1 star

F.lli Fabiano Nicola Fabiano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brandied cherries underlain by greenish accents and some penetrating alcohol, with an underlying coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit -- less than I expected from the nose -- supported by dusky tannins that are quite smooth, and have a cedary overlay to them, flowing into a fairly long clean rather soft finish. It's up in the air, and needs to come together, because at present the tannins have a muddying influence on it. When they smooth it could be interesting, but it's too soon to say.

Valentina Cubi Morar Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a youthful key, with slightly brandied cherry fruit supported by red berries and greenish accents, with some underlying spice. Enticing. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet, with elegant brandied cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that though smooth do have a slight greenish burr, and moderate acidity, which flow into a clean plum finish that has some brown sugar and oatmeal accents. Pleasant, in a cheeky sort of way, and though it is very young one could drink it with a rich stew even now. But those who have patience will be rewarded, because it has a ways to go yet. If you like this fairly sweet style of Amarone you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Monteci Costa delle Corone Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable greenish accents interwoven with cedar and some peppery spice; there's not much fruit, though there are hints of leather. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, bitterness from soft tannins, that flow into a cool plum laced finish with underlying tannic bitterness that has a slightly metallic tang. It's a bit settled, and young to be in this state.
1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi Calcarole Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with brandied red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and pleasing dusky spice that has a degree of coolness to it, and, as it opens, wet leaves. It's quite young, and in mid stride, but going in a nice direction. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity -- enough to keep it going and by tannins that have a greenish graphite shaving bitterness to them, and flow into a fairly long plum finish that gains definition and contrast from the graphite. Pleasant in a sweeter key, and it needs time -- another couple of years -- to come together; if you like this rather curvy voluptuous style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tezza Brolo delle Giare Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Dusky deep almandine with black reflections and garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and sweet, with dried prunes mingled with brown sugar and hints of oatmeal, and underlying spice with hints of cedar, supported by alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with less fruit than I expected; what is present is quite ripe, into plum and prune, and supported more by dusky graphite shaving bitterness than acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. I would have liked greater acidity, because it's a bit flat.
1 star

Bixio Produttori Amarone Bixio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a greenish rhubarb key, with dusky berry fruit as well; it's fairly one-dimensional at present and this is youth. On the palate it's ample, with moderate red berry fruit supported by more acidity than I expected from the nose, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It is direct, and this is youth, but it may go places that are interesting with time. In other words, I would wait on it, because it's in swaddling clothes now; with respect to many of the other Amaroni it has more acidity and this makes it more refreshing, and lithe. But it needs time.


Aldegheri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great lot of bitter greenish cedar and slight hints of animal tang. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, moderately sweet, and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and moderate berry fruit acidity that flow into a fairly bitter finish. It's quite young, and really not happy about being poured; if you can give it a year or two it will do interesting things, I think. But it needs time.
2 stars

Aldrighetti Luigi, Angelo, Nicola Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine tending towards orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal and rhubarb accents supported by cedar and brambly acidity more than fruit, though there are some tart currants. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry currant fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and by tannins that are smooth and bitter, with slight hints of graphite, and flow into a brandied cherry finish with underlying bitterness. It's quite young, but shows promise, and is a wine I would wait for, because it is on its toes, and a young wine should be.
2 stars

Le Marognole Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and fairly sweet, with rhubarb and cherry mingled with duskiness and slight gum Arabic, and also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by bitter cedar and graphite shavings, and moderate acidity that flow into a dusky slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's going in more than one direction now, and needs to pull together. Which it will, becoming delicate and rather lacy with time. In short, it has potential, and if you like a less exuberant style you will enjoy it. It also has the potential to age well for 10 years at least. It made me think.
2 stars

Manara Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with bell pepper jelly mingled with cedar and brambles with hints of rhubarb and slight hardwood ash that gains barnyard tang as it opens; there's something haunting to it. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, though not as bright as I had expected; the fruit is red berry with some currants, and there is acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, flowing into a clean rather bitter finish. With more acidity it would have been brighter; in its defense it is very young and the pieces are still coming together. In short, it needs time.
1 star

Marchesi Fumanelli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with bitter graphite and brown sugar; there are hints of red berry fruit and brandied cherries, but they are in the background now. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich dusky berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness with pleasant savory accents and some brambly acidity that flow into a clean savory finish. It's deft, in an ample alcoholic key, and though it is quite young, it promises well, and will age nicely. I found it growing upon me, and think it will age nicely, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Vigneti Villabella Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with brambles and greenish accents mingled with spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality more than fruit, dusky graphite supported by moderate mineral acidity and bitter tannins that flow into a dry fairly bitter finish. It's ready, though it will age nicely for another 5-10 years at least, becoming quite tertiary (with leather and leaf tobacco) with time. It's not a fruit driven wine, but it does have potential for the future.
1 star

Zenato Azienda Vitivinicola Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of greenish petroleum/cedar overlying brambles and some wood smoke, but not much fruit, though there is an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's ample, and sweeter than the nose suggested, with spicy plum fruit supported by warmth and slight menthol, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather dusky slightly bitter finish. It's a bit disjointed and this is youth; with respect to many it has more acidity, and is therefore fresher. I would give it a year at least, and think it will show better in 2-4, aging nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Buglioni Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated cedar and savory accents mingled with some underbrush. Pleasant, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry fruit that has some sweet plum overtones supported by dusky tannic bitterness and savory notes that flow into a distinctly brooding bitter tannic finish. Were it a person it would be under a cloud, but it does display a degree of grace and lacy elegance, and will also age nicely. You do have to like wines that are more brooding, however; if you like brighter sunnier wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Gnirega Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with plum and plum marmalade mingled with brown sugar and some spice. Also hints of oatmeal. On the palate it's drier than I expected from the nose, with ample rather dry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a bitter cedar underlay and flow into a sour plum laced bitter finish; there's not much acidity, and it therefore settles, not to say sags.
1 star

Monte Zovo Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish cedar and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense mentholated cherry and plum fruit supported by spicy tannins that have a greenish overlay to them, and by fairly bright mineral acidity that leads into a clean, dusky bitter finish with some earthy petroleum accents. It's very young, and needs a couple of years to get its bearings, after which it will age well for a decade or more. Brighter acidity would have been nice, but it will be lacy with time.
2 stars

Nicolis Angelo e Figli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Looks fresher than many. The bouquet is ample, with berry fruit supported by strawberry jam and some menthol and hints of underbrush, a combination that brings a bouquet that has been sitting in a vase for a few days to mind. On the palate it's bright, with fairly lively cherry plum fruit supported by brambly acidity, and by tannins that are a little thinner than I expected, with greenish dusky bitterness, and flow into a clean brambly finish with underlying sour bitterness. It's up in the air, but has a suppleness to it that many of the other Amaroni lack, thanks to its acidity, and will age nicely; I would expect the pieces to come into place in the space of a couple of years, and for the wine to work well with roasts or stews for at least a decade thereafter. One important thing to add is that it's more supple than massive.
2 stars

I Scriani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable greenish cedar mingled with some animal tang -- lathered horse -- and spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich soft cherry fruit supported by cheeky berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are gritty, with a splintery greenish burr, and flow into a rather dusky bitter finish. It's in mid-stride, with the nose behind the palate, and needs at least a year to come together, though 2 will be better. Judging it now is like judging a babe in swaddling clothes.

Latium Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy slightly cooked prunes mingled with some brown sugar, alcohol, and spice. It gives an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with bitter prune fruit supported more by savory minerality than acidity, and by amble slightly greenish bitter tannins that flow into a clean green berry fruit finish. It isn't as bright as I might have liked, and though I found the fruit enjoyable in a Recioto-based direction, I found myself wishing for more acidity. Bitter tannins are much less interesting.
1 star

San Rustico Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and cedar mingled with shellac (from oak, I think) and alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's richer than I expected, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by delicate acidity and fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright finish, with tannins and some raspberry acidity. The palate is well ahead of the nose, and if the nose follows its lead the wine will be pleasant, and also age nicely. But it needs time, at least 2 years.
2 stars

Terre di Leone Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with sweet prunes mingled with wet earth and some mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with rich prune fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness, moderate acidity -- enough to keep it firmly on its toes -- and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet prune finish with -- again -- a brown sugar underpinning, which is balanced by tannic bitterness. It's ample, and fairly rich, but the bitterness is strong enough to give it a brooding cast despite the acidity, which in the end surrenders to it. In short, it's under a cloud. But, if you like the style, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Boscaini Carlo San Giorgio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with sweetish accents mingled with bell pepper greenness and intriguing savory floral notes; there is also red berry fruit underlying it all. Invigorating, somehow. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with savory minerality laced with cedar more than fruit, which I found growing upon me, supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. It's not fruit driven, but is nicely balanced, and invites a second sip after the first. It is also ready now, though it will continue to age nicely for many years. A little more richness of fruit would have been nice, but it does drink well.
2 stars

Cav. G. B. Bertaini Villa Arvedi Amarone Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC 2006
Deep black garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The nose is eye opening, with an initial rush of barnyard tang -- wet stable straw -- mingled with sea salt and some brambly notes, also hints of cedar. On the palate it's ample, and savory, with moderately intense mineral-laced berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a savory finish. It's a big wine, and very traditional bordering on rustic, especially on the nose, and also needs another couple of years to get its bearings at which point it will age well for a decade or (probably) more. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's not for everyone.
2 stars

Speri Viticoltori Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chalky greenish mentholated accents mingled with ripe cherry plum fruit and some underlying cedar; there are also hints of sapone di Marsiglia, the traditional Italian laundry soap. On the palate it's ample, with dusky plum fruit supported by warm bitterness that flows into a cedar-laced bitter finish. Note he word flow, the wine gives an impression of thickness, and I think this is due to its concentration, coupled with a reliance on tannins more than acidity to carry the show.
1 star

Giuseppe Campagnola Vigneti Vallata di Marano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with cedar and some spice. Not much fruit, though swishing dos bring up some plums and prunes. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cherry plum fruit that I hadn't completely expected from the nose, supported by fairly bright mineral plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich plum finish with tannic underpinning. The nose is behind the palate, which is pleasant in a rather cheeky way, and I would give the wine at least a year to come together and develop. It has the potential to age well for a decade or more, but needs the time to get there. A sleeper that grew upon me.
2 stars

CĂ  La Bionda Vigneti di Ravazzoi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and frankly chemical, with shellac and cedar mingled with something that brings to mind airplane glue. Lots of wood, which the wine has yet to digest. On the palate it's ample, with soft plum fruit supported by dusky cedar laced tannins whose cedar component gains strength as it flows into the finish, which is decidedly bitter. A tremendous amount of oak, which overshadows all, and though it is actually quite drinkable -- it's good oak -- you should only consider it if you like heavily oaked wines.
1 star

Zeni F.lli s.a.s. Vigne Alte Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with prune and cherry fruit laced with sweetness and brown sugar, and supported by spice and alcohol; the overall impression is rather haunting. On the palate it's fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a prune laced rather bitter finish with savory undercurrents. It's ample, smooth, and soft, and given its youth this sort of profile is not good, because it won't perk up with time. In short, I don't think it will be long lived, and Amarone should be.

Cantina Sociale della Valpantena Torre del Falasco Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with greenish accents and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by dusky cedar laced tannins and some mineral acidity, which flow into a clean rather dusky prune finish with some brown sugar sweetness, balanced by dusky tannic bitterness. The nose is behind the palate, which is fairly pleasant, though it too needs time, at least a year and perhaps 2. It's a wine I would set aside, because I think it will do interesting things in the next 8-10 years.
2 stars

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine Terre di Cariano - Cecilia Beretta Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar mingled with airiness and some greenish accents, also slight barnyard tang. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright plum laced finish with slight tannic underpinning. It's a babe tightly wrapped in swaddling clothes, and whose bouquet is way behind the palate. It needs at least a year and more likely 2 to be grudgingly approachable, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly international key, with nice fruit and nice acidity. In short, we're looking at a partially painted canvas now, one that is simply too young to score. But that will be nice.

Novaia Selezione Corte Vaona Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up cedar laced with spice (including ground cumin), graphite shavings and some sea salt. Precious little fruit. On the palate it's ample and very bitter, with sea salt that gives way to tongue curling bitterness that lasts and lasts. And lasts. It's like sucking on a barrel slat.
1 star

Santi Proemio Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bitter accents mingled with cedar and some spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense fairly sweet prune fruit laced with brown sugar and hints of oatmeal, supported by very bitter dusty tannins that flow into an almost searing bitter finish. It's quite young, and the searing qualities will fade some with time, but it's set, with more tannin than acidity carrying it, and I'm not sure how well it will age.
1 star

Antolini Pierpaolo e Stefano Moròpio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum fruit supported by brown sugar and some oatmeal, and by cedar-laced sweetish spice. Pleasant, in a slightly subdued key. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with dusky plum prune fruit supported by savory minerality and spice more than acidity, and by smooth bitter tannins that flow into a brooding, slightly bitter prune finish with some greenish accents. Pleasant, though you have to like this brooding style. If you prefer brighter wines, I won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Bolla Le Origini Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with wet stable straw mingled with bramble and wet leaves; there isn't much fruit to it, though as it opens leather also emerges. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively savory cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright savory acidity, and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have a savory burr, and flow into a warm savory finish with tart fruit underpinning and some bitterness. It's pleasant in a traditional key, and much more agile than many of the other Amaroni presented; if you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will also age nicely for many years, becoming lacy and lathery with time. In short, worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Corte Campagnola Gli Archi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets (something odd for a wine this old) mingled with plum cherry fruit and spice; it is obviously developing and in mid stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sweet plum fruit supported by moderate greenish acidity and tannins that have a dusky cedar burr, and flow into a fairly long bitter greenish finish. It's fairly direct, and though this is in part youth it is also in part character.
2 stars

Vogadori F.lli F.ll Vogadori Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim that has brownish accents. It looks older than it is. The bouquet is unusual, with candied grape and plum aromas laced with sweetness and some vegetal accents, and with more swishing wet dark brown sugar. Almost molasses. On the palate it's ample, and much less sweet than I expected; there's moderate sour berry fruit supported by cedar-laced greenish tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a bitter finish that simply fades, with no fruit. It is in mid-stride, and to be honest I'm not sure where it is going. We will have to see.

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Domini Veneti Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is greenish, with a fair amount of cedar and underlying bitterness shot with animal tang. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate plum fruit supported by spice and bitterness more than acidity, and it flows into a savory bitter finish. It's fairly settled, and unfortunately the relative lack of acidity means that it isn't really going to perk up.
1 star

Albino Armani Cusianus Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and some greenish vegetal accents. Nice balance, and it gives an impression of lightness. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite young, with bright brambly berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a clean vegetal finish. It's pleasant in a brambly tomboyish key, and though quite young will drink well with grilled meats or stews now, and also has the capacity o age well for a decade or more. I would give it some time, because it will I think do interesting things.
2 stars

Tenuta Sant'Antonio Campo dei Gigli Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is up in the air, with spice mingled with lactic acid and an airiness that brings latex to mind. Not much else at present. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate plum fruit that is overshadowed by savory notes and tannic bitterness, which flow into more of the same in the finish. It's settled, and this isn't going to change as it ages.
1 star

Castellani Michele e Figli Campo Casalin I Castei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is chemical, with aromas of rubber cement and cedar that are, I think, extreme youth. It's up in the air. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory bitterness more than acidity, and it flows into a decidedly bitter finish. The nose is behind the palate, but the palate is going in a direction -- more bitterness than acidity -- that will lead to a brooding, not particularly happy wine.
1 star

Gamba Campedei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with considerable cedar and some berry fruit, but cedar more than anything else. On the palate it's fairly intense, with dusky red berry fruit supported by slight berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a clean cedar-laced finish that's fairly bright. It needs another year to get its bearings, but is pleasant, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tinazzi CĂ  dei Rocchi - La Bastia Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by greenish accents, quite a bit of alcohol, and penetrating cedar. On the palate it's brighter, than I expected, with cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by milky tannic bitterness that has cedar underpinning, and flow into a rather bitter cedar laced finish. It's a bit settled, and will never be really bright, alas. But it will drink nicely with succulent roasts or stews.
1 star

Recchia F.lli CĂ  Betoldi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit rustic, with some wet stable straw mingled with wet leaves and some underbrush and a certain airiness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It's woefully young, but pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style it will drink well with grilled meats or stews, though it will be much better 2-3 years from now that it is today, and will age well for a decade longer.
2 stars

Accordini Stefano Acinatico Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with wet stable straw mingled with underbrush and wet leaves. It has a ripe pungency to it. On the palate it's ample, with dusky fairly sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish bitter burr to them and by moderate mineral more than fruit driven acidity, flowing into a spicy bitter tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed, and this is youth, but it is also a bit more settled than I might have liked. I would age it for a year or two, but wouldn't expect it to age for long.
1 star

Arduini Luciano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and rhubarb; there's a pleasant haunting quality o it. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with bright berry fruit supported by moderate bitterness and moderate rather lactic acidity that flows into a clean bitter plum finish with sandalwood underpinning. It's quite young, and is still in the air, between here and there. I'm not sure which direction it will fall, because the acidity isn't quite as marked as I would like it to have been in a young wine.
1 star

Benedetti Soc. Agr Corte Antica Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and penetrating, with wood smoke mingled with alcohol and spice more than fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by slightly sour acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright cedar-laced finish. It's a child in the woods, and has a ways to go before it comes together completely. But it is pleasant, and will drink well with foods now, though if you can give it time it will reward you. I would expect it to age well for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars

CĂ  Rugate Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cedar mingled with lactic acid and a fair amount of penetrating acidity. On the palate it's brighter than one might have expected, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by sour plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum laced finish supported by deft acidity. It's pleasant, with the nose behind the palate, and will develop nicely over then next couple of years; it will age very well too, for a decade or more. It's fairly traditional, but not rustic, and is worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Roccolo Grassi Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with menthol and considerable cedar. On the palate it's ample, with soft plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and considerable cedar laced bitterness that flows into a cedar-laced finish. Quite a bit of wood, over soft fruit, and though the wine will perhaps ultimately digest the wood, it will remain soft and with relatively little acidity.
1 star

Rubinelli Vajol Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with interlaced animal tang -- wet stable straw -- and some spice. Eye opening. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean fairly soft finish. It's quite drinkable, but I would have liked more depth and power to it.
1 star

Tenuta Galtarossa Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy spicy mentholated accents. Not much fruit, but instead alcohol and an abundance of cedar. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish that gains depth from dusky bitterness. It's very young, with the nose behind the palate, but displays considerable depth and elegance, and will drink nicely with roasts and stews even now, though it will also richly reward those with the patience to give it a few years. Expect it to age well for 10-15.
2 stars

Tommasi Viticoltori Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with candied red berry fruit supported by brandied accents and some cedar. Pleasant. On the palate it's ample and quite sweet, with clean bright plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum fruit finish. An elegant, fairly sweet expression of Amarone, and will drink very well with succulent stews or roasts. Pleasant, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Cantina di Soave Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar mingled with some greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense minerality more than fruit supported by mineral acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean mineral finish. There's less fruit than one might have liked or expected form an Amarone.
1 star

Cesari Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly greenish, with cedar and some wood smoke mingled with considerable graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly savory finish. It's quite drinkable, but I would have liked greater brightness and depth to the fruit than I found. In particular, the finish fades into cedary bitterness that is a bit settled.
1 star

Corte Sant'Alda Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense, and cedar laced, with greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, but not that much in the way of fruit. Some plum, but not much else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by savory acidity and by smooth sweet cedar laced tannins. It's more along on the nose than the palate, and pleasant, though in a slightly dusky, shadowy key. I would give it a couple of years to come together, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Dal Bosco Giulietta Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with cedar and some greenish accents more than fruit. On the palate it's sweeter than one might have expected from the nose, with fairly rich sweet plum fruit laced with lactic acid and milky acidity, while the tannins are soft and cedary, and flow into a clean rather bitter lactic finish. It's almost milky, and this is a factor of youth and development. I hesitate to score it, because it's a babe well wrapped in swaddling clothes. But I do expect it to be fairly soft, in a ripe plum laced key.

Monte Dall'Ora Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum fruit supported by alcohol and dusky berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by fairly bright plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have savory accents and slow into a savory plum finish. It's fairly direct, and is already quite ripe; the acidity isn't such that I would expect it to age for long.
1 star

F.lli Tedeschi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim that has slight brownish highlights. On the palate it's distinctly vegetal, with greenish bell pepper mingled with some bell pepper jam and greenish spice, also some artichoke. In short, green. On the palate it's greenish too, with savory bell pepper supported by cedar and moderate minerality more than spice, which flow into a fairly quick cedar laced finish. It's very much up in the air, and needs more time to come together and develop.

Monte del FrĂ  Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with cedar and some wood smoke, also a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and sooth, with richer than expected plum fruit supported by lively plum acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum laced finish. Pleasant in a ripe key, and will drink well with drier roasts or stews. It also needs time; though one could drink it now it will do better in 2-4 years, and age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Fraccaroli Domenico Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe plum fruit supported by slight greenish accents and some bell pepper jelly with hints of artichoke greenness as well. In short, ripe and fairly vegetal. On the palate it's ample, with moderately sweet plum fruit supported by greenish accents that flow into a clean bright cedar laced finish; there's not as much acidity as I might have liked, but it will be pleasant enough in the short term. Not enough acidity for long aging.
2 stars

Musella Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is very young, with cedar and some chemical accents; it smells like it's fresh out of the barrel and has a ways to go in terms of development. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by cedar-laced bitterness more than acidity, and by ample cedar laced tannins that have again bitterness, this time more graphite, and flow into a fairly sweet prune finish that has a decidedly bitter tannic underpinning. There isn't as much acidity as I might have hoped for; the wine is settled now, and will not perk up with time.
1 star

Trabucchi Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice; the impression is of considerable youth. On the palate it's ample, with greenish plum fruit supported by dusky greenish acidity and tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart greenish savory finish. A distinctly vegetal wine -- and this is at least in part youth -- but pleasant and nicely balanced, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is also fairly traditional.
2 stars

F.lli Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish accents and some wet stable straw mingled with brambly notes. Fairly rustic. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit overshadowed by cedar laced acidity and by rather evanescent cedary tannins that flow into a direct cherry plum finish. It's a bit hulking, and gives an impression of being firmly in place.
1 star

Venturini Massimo e Figli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar mingled with some barnyard tang and moderate spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with fairly intense plum fruit supported by savory accents and bitterness more than acidity, and it all flow into a clean rather bitter finish. I'd have liked more acidity, than I found.
1 star

Zecchini Amarone Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather green, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled menthol and some spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported more by dusky bitterness than acidity, though some hints of acidity to emerge in the finish, of the mineral variety. Pleasant enough though very young, and needs a year or two to begin to get its bearings; because of the plum laced fruit cast and the relative weakenss of the acidity I a not sure how much beyond 5 years it will age.
2 stars

Le Tobele Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and spice. Quite young. On the palate it's ample, with bright green berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by pleasant smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish that has some dusky sweet plum undertones. Pleasant, and though it will drink now with stews or roasts, will also age nicely for a number of years, and will reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Winding Down, Trabucchi
The second day of the Anteprima was dedicated to winery visits. Since a serious snowstorm was forecast, and indeed the morning sky was an eerie white, I decided to limit my visits to Trabucchi, which is in Illasi, a town on the easternmost border of the Valpolicella production zone, overlooking the valley containing the town of Soave. Raffaella and Giuseppe Trabucchi have a beautiful home, with an extremely impressive, very new cellar, and make a number of fine wines, which we tasted in the course of an elegant, traditional Veronese lunch.

Trabucchi Valpolicella Superiore Terre di San Colombano DOC 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. Elegant nose, with deft cherry fruit that has slight jammy accents -- the grapes were lightly dried, and it shows -- and elegant spice, hints of cumin and menthol from the grapes, and very fresh. Beautifully clean. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by the greenish spice typical of Valpolicella, as well as acidity and tannins that have warm sandalwood accents, another thing I associate with Valpolicella. It all flows into a clean slightly bitter greenish berry fruit finish. Beautiful depth and elegance, and very pleasant to drink. We had it with pasta e fagioli, and it was perfect, or you could drink it with meat-based pasta dishes or simple grilled meats.
91-2

Trabucchi Valpolicella Superiore Terre del Cereolo DOC 2004
Here the grapes were dried for 20-25 days, and there is more oak. The wine is deep garnet ruby with almandine rim -- more mature than the San Colombano, and given its greater age this makes sense. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly candied berry fruit supported by delicate spice and cedar. Quite harmonious, though not as bright as the San Colombano, and this is a combination of more wood and greater age, as the grapes are the same. On the palate it's full and rich, with warm berry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean fresh finish. The oak colors it slightly with respect to the San Colombano, which I found to be more delicate and to display greater finesse. Terre del Cereolo is instead more bulked up and powerful, and I found it to be mid-way between Valpolicella and Amarone in some ways. Which you prefer is a question of stylistic preference.
2 stars

Trabucchi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly jammy berry fruit supported by clean spice, slight greenish vegetal accents typical of Valpolicella, and pleasing spice. Beautiful character. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean bright peppery tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly sweet tannic finish that lasts and lasts. Very nice, and though it is quite young it will drink beautifully with steaks or roasts now, or with mixed boiled meats and sauces of the sort we enjoyed it with. A beautiful Amarone.
92-3

Trabucchi Trabucchi D'Illasi Amarone Riserva DOC 2003
This is made only when the vintage warrants it; there is a 2004 coming, but no 2005. Deep black garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and jammy, with deft red berry fruit supported by cedar-laced spice and warmth. It's a bit blockier than the 2004 and this is the vintage. On the palate it's ample, soft, and cedar-laced with moderately rich berry fruit. Not heatstruck, but also not of the quality of the 2004, and flows into a warm dry berry fruit finish.
2 stars

Trabucchi Recioto Della Valpolicella 2005
Inky pyrope with black cherry rim. Rich nose with languid red berry fruit supported by greenish plums, sweetness, hints of oatmeal, spice, smoke, and some cedar. Quite elegant, though the cedar is somewhat distracting. On the palate it's ample, rich, sweet, and very smooth, with shadowy plum fruit supported by moderate acidity -- some of the acidity has been polished out of it -- and by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a languidly voluptuous finish whose texture brings to mind creamy, really good hot chocolate, while the fruit flows into prune. And it lasts, and slasts. Beautiful in a fairly modern key, and a fine, fine Recioto.
88-91

That's It! Thanks as always to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella for organizing the event, and best wishes to the Consorzio's Director, Emilio Fasoletti, who says he is retiring this year. Valpolicella won't seem quite the same without him at the helm.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

The 2010 Vernaccia di San Gimignano Anteprima

The producers of San Gimignano continue to march to a different drummer with respect to the producers of Tuscan reds: They have a day, and rather than spend it on the current vintage (2009 in this case), go on thought-provoking tangents. The first time, they scrounged old bottles hidden in the corners of the cellars, and assembled a vertical that went all the way back to 1974, a time when nobody in Italy even considered the possibility of making an age-worthy non-fortified white wine.

And yes, by God, the '74 was old, but it was still alive, and this caused all sorts of raised eyebrows. So then they began inviting producers from renowned French white wine appellations, showing a willingness to stand next to the stars of the Enological Firmament that few producers of reds have matched: A couple of years ago they showcased Thomas Jefferson's favorite, Hermitage, and this year was the turn of Pouilly Fuissé, a Burgundy made with Chardonnay in the southernmost section of the Burgundy production zone, just a few miles north of the Beaujolais Appellation.

The white varietal of choice in this region is Chardonnay, often planted to very high densities (8000 or more vines per hectare) and, since the climate is fairly cool, the flavor balance is decidedly mineral, with lemony fruit rather than the tropical fruit one gets from Chardonnay in hotter climates. Fermentation and aging are primarily in small oak barrels, which contribute butterscotch accents that are not cloying, thanks to the acidity of the wines.

They did things slightly differently this year, first featuring two vintages each from three French producers, and then six vintages from different Vernaccia producers.

The Wines:

Pouilly-Fuissé Chateau des Rontets Les Birbettes 2007
Pale brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is intense, and quite mineral, with a fair amount of greenish gunflint that brings artichoke stems to mind. Considerable depth, and there are hints of bitter honey as well. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with full rich lemony fruit supported by ample butterscotch laced acidity that flows into a clean vegetal vanish with bitterness and savory butterscotch underpinning. Appealing; there's nice depth, though it's still very young, and the oak it was fermented in still stands out some. It will drink very nicely in the ne3xt 3-5 years, and will be worth waiting for.
2 stars

Pouilly-Fuissé Chateau des Rontets Les Birbettes 2002
Brassy gold with brassy gold reflections. The bouquet is intense, and clearly mature, with petroleum laced picked lemon peel and a fair amount of sea salt. Quite harmonious and with more swishing the mineral elements emerge nicely, as do hints of honey derived from slight Noble Rot that came with the summer rains. On the palate it's ample, with rich bitter minerality supported by lemony fruit and acidity that flow into a clean citric lemony finish. Quite pleasant, with the rich acidity and structure that come from a cool vintage (no chance of overripeness), and it's quite pleasant to drink. Ample, and will work very well with white meats or hearty fish, and won't be at all bad with cheeses wither.
88-90

Viré-Clessé Domaine Valette 2003
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and hreenish highlights. The bouquet is very different, with clean spicy vegetal accents with menthol and powdery green apple bitterness that adds tantalizing depth. Intriguing. On the palate it's powerful, with fairly rich, fairly sweet dried apple fruit supported by bitter minerality more than acidity, which flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It is a hot vintage wine, one in which the acidity was knocked back by a great lot of sun. This said, it's quite pleasant in a hot weather key, and if you like the style, which is riper and less acidic, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style. Note: It does develop considerably in the glass, especially on the palate, where intriguing iodine bitter accents emerge. Because of its development, several tasters found it to be the best of the French wines; while I agree with them about the development, it was a little softer and sweeter than I liked and that didn't change.
2 stars

Pouilly Fuissé Domaine Valette 1999
Brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is decidedly mineral, with some hints of petroleum, and a fair amount of bitter minerality laced with underbrush and wet leaves. Mature, and pleasant, revealing considerable sea salt as it opens, and also intriguing honey accents, while the petroleum fades, and it becomes quite fresh. On the palate it's deft, and more about finesse than power, with clean minerality and deft savory bitterness that flows into a clean mineral finish. Quite pleasant, and nicely balanced, with harmony between mineral acidity and bitterness that flow into a clean savory finish that gains fullness form wood tannins that support but do not distract. Very nice, and very fresh; it has a vibrant and timeless beauty to it.
90

Pouilly Fuissé Domaine Guffens-Heynen 1996
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. One wouldn't guess it is 14 years old. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable bitterness that is mingled with overripe blossoms and bitter black pear accents; as it opens the overripeness gives way to butterscotch. Nice balance and quite a bit of depth. On the palate it's ample, with rich fairly sweet savory minerality and mineral acidity, supported by vanilla-laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet mineral finish with bitter vegetal underpinning and vanilla-laced tannins from the oak. Pleasant, and graceful in a full lacy sort of way, and though it is quite ready to drink, it also has the potential to age well for another 5-10 years.
2 stars

Pouilly Fuissé Domaine Guffens-Heynen 1993
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and gold highlights. The bouquet is elegant, with slight pickled lemon acidity supported by petroleum and clean savory accents. Very pleasant to sniff, and with considerable depth. Lots to discover here. On the palate it's ample, with rich savory pickled lemony fruit supported by tannins from oak, and flows into a clean savory oak-laced citric finish. Very pleasant, with haunting distance that confers depth, and has a great deal to say. A wine one can converse with.
90

The Vernaccia:

Cappella Sant'Andrea
Vernaccia di San Gimignano Cappella Sant'Andrea Rialto 2007
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with considerable greenish bitter almond blossoms mingled with minerality and some butterscotch. Quite young. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with fairly intense minerality supported by bitterness and some butterscotch underpinning that flows into a bitter savory finish. It's quite young, and zesty, with a peppery underpinning that is a bit of a surprise, while there is also an aromatic languid richness that's from the Chardonnay the wine also includes -- yes, there is 10% and it has a considerable impact. Quite approachable and quite drinkable.
2 stars

Tenuta le Calcinaie
Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tenuta Le Calcinaie Riserva Vigna ai Sassi 2006
Brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted with respect to the 2007, with deft bitter almond blossoms mingled with minerality and some citric acidity. Lesser key, somehow. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by some mineral acidity that flows into a clean finish that has hints of butterscotch to it, and also some mineral citric accents. Pleasant, and quite young; it brings to mind a teen who still has some baby fat to her. Nice, but still developing and needs to tighten some.
2 stars

Fontaleoni
Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fontaleoni Vigna Casanuova 2005
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with bitter minerality mingled with greenish accents and hints of bitter honey and lemony minerality with underlying gunflint bitterness. Nice, and has quite a bit to say; it's a cooler vintage wine and there is more acidity to it. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony minerality supported by languid hints of sweetness and minerality, with underlying peppery accents that flow into a clean bitter peppery finish. Quite pleasant, and very fresh; it's a wine that will drink well with white meats or hearty fish now, and also has the legs to age well for many more years. A fine expression of the vintage.
90

San Quirico
Vernaccia di San gimignano San Quirico Riserva Isabella 2004
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly bitter butterscotch mingled with hints of petroleum and minerality. It's less acidic than the 2005, and this is an effect of the vintage, which was warmer and drier. On the palate it's ample and fairly mineral, with bitter citric accents supported by some tannins with slight vanilla accents that flow into a clean rather savory finish with pleasant warmth that reflects the warmth of the summer. It's not as complex as cooler vintage are, but does have a sunny minerality to it that is quite pleasant. It grew upon me.
88-90

Poggio Alloro
Vernaccia di San Gimignano Poggio Alloro Le Mandorle 2003
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rich, and herbal, with a mixture of rosemary and oregano mingled with clover honey and spice. Quite rich, and somehow nebulous. On the palate it's ample, with rich herbal minerality that flows into a warm clean fairly savory finish with bitter underpinning. Pleasant, and a good expression of a very hot vintage -- it's not overripe, and there is acidity, though the tannins have a cedary accent to them, and have more of an influence than they would in a less hot year. Pleasant in any case, and a fine expression of hot vintage Vernaccia. This is their only barrique-aged Vernaccia.
2 stars

Panizzi
Vernaccia di San Gimignano Panizzi Riserva 2002
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. Looks quite young. The bouquet is powerful, with slightly pickled lemony acidity supported by greenish vegetal accents and mentholated spice. Quite pleasant, and quite rich; it has a lot to say and is very fresh. On the palate it's full, and more languid than I expected, with ample bitter lemony fruit that has some butterscotch overtones mingled with gunflint, which carry into a decidedly bitter slightly greenish finish. Nice balance and depth, with wood contributing considerably to the wine, but finding enough sour fruit and acidity -- 2002 was one of the coldest and wettest vintages in memory -- to balance well and work. It has quite a bit to say, and will also age nicely for another decade or more.
88-90

General impression: Two very fine flights; the French wines reveal cooler temperatures and as a result have more of an interplay of minerality and acidity than the Vernaccia, which is -- with the exception of 2005 and 2002 -- a child of a hotter climate that results in greater ripeness and as a result richer fruit and less acidity. Both are quite successful, however, and offer a great deal to think about and ponder. In short, different terroirs, and different climates.

Quality?
There's no denying it; the French do have a head start, and very few 1993 Vernaccias could hope to match the 1993 Pouilly Fuissé Domaine Guffens-Heynen. But things are changing with Vernaccia, and now the gap is much narrower -- if it still exists, and to reach this conclusion one would have to taste more wines from both Appellations. In short, Vernaccia is striding forward, and the wines are displaying a capacity to age that few would have expected from an Italian white.

And that is, alas, unappreciated by Italian consumers, and to a greater degree by Italian restaurant owners: Giovanni Panizzi said he is now having a terrible time interesting buyers in his 2008 Vernaccia, which is just barely beginning to enter its adolescence, because they all want the 2009. What for, one wonders, considering how much more depth the older vintages display, especially the 2005 and 2002.

In other words, if you come across a well stored bottle of Vernaccia from years gone by, especially cooler summers (in this decade, 2005 and 2002). Take a chance. It will likely make you very happy!

Last thing: I will taste through the current vintage in June, when the wines have a few months of bottle age.

Tuesday, February 09, 2010

Franciacorta: Fine Bollicine

Valentine's Day is rapidly approaching, and it is tradition to celebrate with sparkling wines. The most obvious Italian choice is Franciacorta, a superb sparkling wine produced between the city of Brescia and lake Iseo. I have written extensively on the region in the past (read the article here), and the wines being made have not changed since then.

The vintages have, however.

As is the case in some other sparkling wine appellations, Franciacorta producers are not required to state the vintage on their bottles. A non-vintage wine is not necessarily inferior; producers often blend more than one vintage to obtain a sum whose whole is greater than its component parts. Because of this blending, non-vintage wines tend to be more consistent year-to-year. Vintage wines are instead made with the wine from a given vintage, and since each vintage is different are less consistent, or, if you will, more individual. And like individuals can be better or worse than the average.

This year most of the vintage wines presented were 2005 and 2004, which are very different. 2005 was wet and cool, and therefore difficult; there were problems with ripening and many Italian 2005 wines, reds especially, are strident and brambly with thin sour fruit, and the problem also carried over to still whites, many of which were distinctly acidic. Acidity is much less of a problem in sparkling wines, however, as it serve to provide a backbone for the sparkle to build upon, and therefore 2005 was a good vintage for Franciacorta, with wines that are lively, bracing, and quite nice to drink.

From a general standpoint the 2004 vintage was much better than the 2005, and it did result in Franciacorta that is quite different: Richer, curvier wines that are more powerful and more structured, though (fortunately) neither overripe nor soft.

There were also a few older wines, in particular a couple of 2003s whose richness did echo the heat of the 2003 vintage, and a couple of 2002s, one of which was bright, brash, and spellbinding, with all the acidity one would expect from one of the wettest and coolest vintages in recent memory.


Having spoken of the vintages, a couple of words about the tasting. It was beautifully organized. Unfortunately, due to other commitments I was not able to spend as much time there as I would have liked, and was forced to taste a selection of wineries rather than everyone.

The Wines, In The Order Tasted:

Azienda Agricola Villa
Villa Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. Rich nose with moist bread crumbs mingled with savory accents and minerality; it also gives an impression of softness. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's rich and elegantly mineral supported by gunflint bitterness and slight pepper from the sparkle, which is creamy, and flows into a bright savory finish. Considerable depth and more complex than many Satèns. A nice aperitif and a good, nay, excellent introduction to the wine if you have never tried it. There's a touch more acidity than in some other vintages, and this is because it was cooler.
88-91

Villa Cuvette Franciacorta Brut 2004
Pale brassy greenish white with fine perlage. Elegant bouquet; it's vinous with gunflint and breadcrumbs, and pleasant underlying savory bitterness. Great depth and considerable richness. On the palate it's full, and rich, with enticing creaminess from the sparkle, mingled with lemon laced bitter minerality that flows into a long clean bitter mineral finish. Quite nice, beautifully refreshing, and is one of those wines one can converse with.
91-2

Villa Diamant Franciacorta Pas Dosè 2004
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with mineral accents mingled with some gunflint and savory notes, and underlying lemony citrus. Very nice. On the palate it's rich, with bright mineral-laced lemon fruit that gains depth from deft bitterness and a bracingly creamy feel from the sparkle, which flows into a clean bitter finish. Great depth and elegance, with lively mineral acidity, and will drink very well as an aperitif or at table.
92

Uberti
Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut (Non Vintage)
Brassy yellow with fine perlage. Intense bouquet with considerable gunflint -- like a hammer striking granite -- and some minerality mingled with wet breadcrumbs, some spice, and hints of caramel. On the palate it's full and a touch laxer than I had expected, with moderate bitterness and savory accents that flow into a very bitter finish.
2 stars

Uberti Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy gold with golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish floral and vegetal accents supported by deft acidity; it gives an impression of softness, though some gunflint provides depth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich white berry fruit supported by creamy sparkle, while the finish is clean and bitter, with mineral acidity providing direction. A distinct step up from the Extra Erut, an appealing, eminently approachable wine.
90

Ricci Curbastro
Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Gualberto Dosaggio Zero 2003
A magnum. Pale brassy greenish yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and toasted breadcrumbs supported by bitterness and gunflint. Nice balance. On the palate it's bracingly dry, with rich savory minerality supported by sparkle that flows into a clean savory finish. Pleasant and with quite a bit to say; it's drier and more toned (like an athlete) than I might have expected a 2003 to be -- none of the overripeness that plagues the vintage.
2 stars

Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with brassy greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents and some minerality. Direct but pleasant. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate sparkle and nice creaminess supported by savory accents and some citric acidity. A classic Satèn, and very approachable.
2 stars

Monte Rossa
Monte Rossa P.R. Brut (Non Vintage)
A magnum. Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and greenish floral accents supported by wet breadcrumbs and some lemony acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright citric fruit supported by sparkle and some bitterness that flows into a clean savory finish with bitter underpinning. It's pleasant and versatile -- good for both aperitif and throughout the meal -- but I found it a bit direct, and if you look for more complex wines this isn't quite it.
2 stars

Lo Sparviere
Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Brut 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine persistent perlage. Elegant, fairly intense bouquet with gunflint and bitterness laced with wet breadcrumbs, On the palate it's full, and rich, and creamy, with bright bitter minerality supported by sparkle and mineral acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. Quite approachable, and displays a pleasing easy elegance.
88-90

Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Brut Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. Elegant bouquet with citrus and vegetal accents mingled with some caramel and underlying gunflint that gives depth. On the palate it's full and soft, with a rich creamy feel, and mineral-laced with some sea salt, hints of lemon, and underlying bitter almonds. Quite approachable, and also displays considerable complexity.
90

Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Rosè (Non Vintage)
Elegant onion skin with fine perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with brambly minerality supported by hints of red berry fruit and some gunflint, with underlying wet toast and barest raspberry. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, rich, and deft; it's not bone dry, and this contributes to making it approachable and pleasing, while red fruit and mineral acidity keep it on its toes, flowing into a clean mineral finish with underlying red berries. Quite approachable, in a wide-eyed smiling sort of way, and will drink very well with foods, or in the course of a romantic occasion.
90

Il Mosnel
Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is clean, with fresh minerality and some gunflint as well as sea salt. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly bright, with clean savory accents that flow into a fairly bitter finish which isn't quite as dry as I might have expected. It's quite approachable, and a fine base wine.
2 stars

Il Mosnel Franciacorta Rosè Pas Dosèe 2005
Pale onionskin with brownish reflections and fine perlage; quite delicate and a far cry from brash pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with clean bitter minerality and breadcrumbs mingled with some sea salt and gunflint, with citric acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with ample savory gunflint and considerable bitterness with some minerality. Beautiful balance, and flows into a clean bright mineral finish that gains creaminess from the sparkle. It combines approachability and depth, and is quite pleasant.
90-91

Il Mosnel Franciacorta EBB Brut 2005
Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with butterscotch and white blossoms mingled with gunflint acidity and wet toast Nice balance. On the palate it's it's rich and creamy, with bright lemony fruit supported by considerable acidity and clean sparkle that flow into a clean bright citric finish. Quite elegant, and will drink very well with foods or as an aperitif, though (if your guests are wine lovers) it may monopolize the conversation.
91-2

La Ferghettina
La Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with breadcrumbs and some apple -- not much gunflint nor bitterness, and it's rather direct. On the palate it's fairly rich, and though savory is sweet for a brut, with clean bright bitterness and some minerality that flow into a bitter finish. Quite direct, and while this is fine in a vino base, I might have expected a little more complexity. It will in any case work nicely with foods at table.
2 stars

La Ferghettina Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with bitter almonds and some minerality, and graceful in a curvy sort of way. On the palate it's ample and soft, with minerality that gains creaminess from the sparkle, and flows into a clean mineral finish with hints of gunflint and some bitter almonds. Quite pleasant and eminently approachable, though not as complex as some. In short, perfect for an occasion in which the wine will contribute, but is not the star.
2 stars

La Ferghettina Franciacorta Extra Brut 2002
Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with moineral acidity and breadcrums underlain by bitterness and some mnerlaity; nice balance. On the palate it's full, bright, and mineral, with clean fresh mineral acidity and creamy sparkle that flow into a clean bright finish. Displays considerably more depth than the younger wines form the estate.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi
Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 25
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, and mineral, with sea salt and wet breadcrumbs mingled with mineral acidity. On the palate it's fresh and quite approachable, with a fairly bright creamy feel supported by minerality and sparkle. Softer than some, and fresh; it's approachable in an up-front sort of way -- What you see is what there is, and there's not too much depth, but the overall impression is nice.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Rosè 2005
Pale salmon with rosyreflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with bitterness and some gunflint supported by more gunflint -- it's like hammer-struck granite. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful savory minerality supported by mineral acidity and sparkle, which confers a creamy feel and flows intoa clean fresh savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif or at table.
90

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2005
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is clean and fresh, with gunflint and brambly minerality supported by wet breadcrumbs and some almond skin, with underlying sea salt as well. Pleasing and complex, and fairly delicate too. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I had expected, with lemony fruit supported by creamy sparkle that flows into a clean lemony finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant, though a bit more direct than I would have expected from a vintage wine.
2 stars

Barone Pizzini
Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly bitterness and some savory accents mingled with wet breadcrumbs and a fair amount of minerality. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with savory minerality supported by bitterness and some greenish citric acidity, while the sparkle confers a pleasant creaminess. Quite nice for a vino base, and will work equally well as an aperitif or at table.
88-90

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish citric accents and some sea salt; it's pleasingly complex in a softer key. On the palate it's ample and soft with creamy lemony fruit that has bitter almond accents and flows into a clean bright citric finish. Quite approachable in a fairly soft key, though there is quite enough acidity for the wine to have backbone and direction. A good bet for a romantic occasion.
88-90

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Bagnadore Brut 2004
Pale greenish brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with greenish vegetal accents and gunflint mingled with wet breadcrumbs and some gunflint, with hints of honeysuckle too. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and deft, with lively lemony mineral-laced fruit supported by creamy sparkle and some bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish that gains depth and direction from mineral acidity. Quitr elegant, and with a great deal to say.
91-2

Bellavista
Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvèe Brut (Non Vintage)
From a magnum. Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, and savory, with sea salt and gunflint. Direct, but it does display nice depth. On the palate it's clean, and fresh, with pleasing minerality and creaminess from sparkle, which flows into a mineral finish with some gunflint and slight pepper from the sparkle. A welcoming wine that will work well with foods, and also be nice as an aperitif.
2 stars

Castelveder
Castelveder Franciacorta Brut 2004
Ple brassy yellow-gold with gold highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with almond skin and lemony accents mingled with some gunflint, and salty wet breadcrumbs. Nice depth. On the palate it's it's full and quite bitter, with a fair amount of alcohol as well, and bitter butterscotch supported by sparkle and gunflint that flow into a fresh bitter finish. It's not quite as tight as a cooler vintage would be, but is pleasant if you like bitterness as opposed to a more acid-driven style. In short, it's more particular than some, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
88

Castelveder Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale greenish yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense and gives an impression of softness with some bitter almond and hints of breadcrumbs. On the palate it's ample, with bitterness more than acidity and flows into a creamy bitter finish.
2 stars

CĂ  Del Bosco
Cà Del Bosco Brut Cuvèe Prestige (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet toast and breadcrumbs supported by gunflint and some minerality. On the palate it's fresh, and fairly full, with pleasant creaminess from the sparkle, minerality, and fairly intense almond bitterness that flows into a clean bitter mineral finish Quite direct, but also quite approachable, and will drink quickly.
2 stars

CĂ  Del Bosco Franciacorta Dosage Zero 2004
Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with lemony fruit supported by slightest tea leaf (good tea leaves) and breadcrumbs, with savory accents and hints -- just hints -- gunflint. Graceful. On the palate it's full and quite mineral, with fullness coming from both minerality and sparkle, while the wine gains direction from mineral citric acidity. Quite pleasant, and will be very nice to drink with friends or far from the table.
90-91

Cà Del Bosco Cuvèe Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta Brut 2002
Brassy golden green with fine perlage. Deft bouquet with gunflint and wet breadcrums supported by hints of cedar and slight bramble with deftly integrated bitter minerality. Considerable depth and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with lively acidity (2002 was cold and wet…) that's mineral, with brambles and hints of citrus supported by peppery mineral accents from the sparkle, which continue into a mineral finish. Very nice, and proves that sparkling wines do best in cooler wetter summers that confer greater acidity.
92-3


Contadi Castaldi
Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut Rosè 2005
Pale brassy pink with fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with sea salt and some gunflint supported by bramble and hints of red fruit. On the palate it's full, savory, and fairly direct, flowing into a clean bitter finish. Up front, and what you see is what there is.
1 star

Cornaleto
Cornaleto Franciacorta Satèn 2003
Pale brassy yellow with golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with bitter honey and slight minty caramel accents. -- obviously from a hot vintage, but nicely balanced and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full, rich and soft, with elegant creaminess supporting clean mint-laced bitterness and some white plum fruit. Nice balance, and has developed very well. It's not as tight as a cool vintage would be, but has much to say and will drink very well.
88-90

Cornaleto Franciacorta Brut Riserva 1999
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with bitter almonds, slightly pickled lemon accents, savory notes, and breadcrumbs -- a lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with deft creaminess, butterscotch-laced minerality, and slightly lemony mineral acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish. Commanding, and gives an impression of great distance -- or austerity, if you will -- and is one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting. Should you come across a bottle, buy all means enjoy it!
92

Gatti Enrico
Gatti Enrico Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is dry, with gunflint minerality and some spice mingled with some breadcrumbs. Not as seductive as some, rather shows more restraint. On the palate it's ample and creamy but aga8in drier, and more about the interplay between savory minerality and creaminess than fruit, and flows into a creamy savory bitter finish. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it does reflect the cooler, wetter 2005 summer.
2 stars

Gatti Enrico Franciacorta Brut 2004
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet bread crumbs mingled with gunflint and bitter honey, with underlying minerality. Nice depth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively mineral-laced bitterness supported by sparkle, which confers peppery creaminess and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant to drink, in a bracing way, and will also drink well with foods.
2 stars

Berlucchi Guido
Berlucchi Guido Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
This is an intentionally young wine; it's brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is young, fresh, and mineral, with wet toast, airy CO2, and some gunflint. On the palate it's bright, fresh, young, and lively, with clean bright lemony fruit supported by sparkle, and flows into a clean bright finish. Pleasant in a young zesty key, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods. A wine to set out and drink -- it's not long on complexity -- and in the proper setting will go quickly.
2 stars

Berlucchi Guido Palazzo Lana Franciacorta Satèn 2004
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with quite a bit of yeast, wet breadcrumbs, and some spice. On the palate it's ample, soft, and a bit settled, with bitterness and moderate acidity supported by sparkle.
1 star

Bersi Serlini
Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut Cuvèe 2004
Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with butterscotch and deft breadcrumbs mingled with hints of bitter almond and some anise -- just a touch that adds depth. On the palate it's ample and delicate with creamy lemon-laced minerality supported by a deft creamy sparkle and by some gunflint that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant in a more delicate, graceful key, and will work well as an aperitif.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Extra Brut 2002
Brassy yellowwi fine perlage. The bouquet is deft and mature, with slightly picked lemony fruit supported by petroleum and lemony acidity. On the palate it's ample, creamy, and rather bitter, flowing into a clean bitter finish. It promised well on the nose, but I found it more settled on the palate.
2 stars

Cantina Chiara Ziliani
Cantina Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Brassy lemony yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable minerality supported by bitterness and bitter almonds, with underlying spice and hints of bitter honey. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral-laced bitterness and bitter chinotto fruit supported by creaminess from the sparkle that flows into a clean savory finish with underlying bitterness. Quite lively, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Cantina Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense and mineral with some greenish accents and hints of bramble and gunflint - it seems underdone somehow. On the palate it's ample, soft and mineral, while there is mineral acidity for direction. It's not as successful as some.
1 star

Castello Bonomi Tenute in Franciacorta
Castello Bonomi Cru Perdu Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Brassy yellow with fine perlage. Elegant bouquet with brambly vegetal accents mingled with gunflint and some citric acid, and also minerality, sea salt, and wet breadcrumbs. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lemony minerality supported by creamy sparkle that flows into a clean bitter finish. Nice depth, and will drink well with foods or as an aperitif. It will go quickly.
88-90

Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra brut 2004
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is clean and rich, with fine gunflint and savory notes mingled with lemony acidity, wet breadcrumbs, and hints of sea salt, with underlying bitter almonds. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter lemony fruit supported by sparkle that confers creaminess, and by savory accents that flow into a clean bitter finish with citric underpinning. Quite pleasant and will work very well as an aperitif or at table; the acidity is delightfully deft.
91-2

Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and lemony with some wet breadcrumbs and underlying gunflint. Pleasant. On the palate it's soft, clean, and fresh, with elegant citrus fruit supported by bitterness that flows into a creamy finish. Quite seductive, and an ideal wine for a romantic occasion.
2 stars