Tasted at Vinitaly: Commendator Burlotto

As I have noted before, I usually finish Vinitaly with a visit to Commndator Burlotto, and I did so once again this year, finding Fabio and Marina still talking, though they were thinking about beginning to pack up -- this year the final day of Vinitaly finished at 6, and things were still hopping at 5:30.

So I began to taste and chat, and by the time we were finished the announcers had stopped telling everyone that the Fair was over, and to come back again next year :-/


Commendator Burlotto Elatis Vino Rosato 2011
E112
Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh with fairly bright forest berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and some greenish vegetal accents with a fair amount of heather. Refreshing; a fellow taster also finds sweetish ginger root. On the palate it's bright, fresh, and fairly sweet, with delicate flinty tannins that flow into a fairly rich slightly greenish finish. Pleasant in a more voluptuous key than usual, and will be a pleasant summer wine.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Viridis langhe Sauvignon 2011
Lot VLS112
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is quite varietal, with rich gooseberry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice with some chalk dust as well. Quite fresh and still coming together. On the palate it's rich, with bright gooseberry fruit supported by warm sour gooseberry/tart loquat acidity and a slight peppery tang that flow into a warm greenish finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with grilled or roasted fish, and be pleasant with fried fish or meats too.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Dives Langhe Sauvignon 2010
Lot LDLS111
Brassy white with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish notes and some spice mingled with gooseberry and sweaty blonde, which is a consistent marker for this wine. Pleasant, though it does bring to mind a certain Springsteen song (though he was talking about redheads). On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly powerful loquat fruit supported by loquat acidity laced with slight lemon, and supported by the burr that loquats can have, flowing into a long tart finish. Pleasant to drink and will work well with fish or white meats, including fried fish.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2010
Lot VP 211
Pale ruby with black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights. The bouquet is intense and spicy with wild flowers mingled with sandalwood and red berry fruit, and savory accents and slight cedar, with mace and nutmeg as well. An explosion in a spice shop! And absolutely typical of the varietal. On the palate it's mg, with lively spicy berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a smooth spicy burr and flow into a warm savory berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and will be very nice in the summer months, and also into fall.
88-90

Commendator Burlotto Dolcetto D'Alba 2010
Lot DA111
Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by almond blossoms and warm peppery notes, and by hints of underbrush and underlying spice. On the palate it's bright, with fresh moderately intense berry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and tannins that are a little darker and more splintery than they have been in some years; it's a bit more brooding. It will work quite well with grilled meats or light roasts.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Barbera D'Alba 2010
Lot BA 111
Deep lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with tart berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and some bitter accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour strawberry raspberry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and slightly flinty notes, while the tannins are smooth and it flows into a fairly long tart strawberry finish. It's a little firmer than other vintages have been, but is quite pleasant and will work very well with rich foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Aves barbera D'Alba 2010
Lot LBAA 111
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by spicy notes and some cedar, and by some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some flinty minerality, and by tannins that are warm and have a slight dusky cedary overlay, and flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Powerful, and a nice expression of a harder vintage; it's not as bright as some but will work quite well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Mores Langhe DOC 2009
Lot ML111
This is a 50-50 blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera that ferment together. It's lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. and pink rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by some cedar and slight rosa canina, and by a greenish underpinning; it's quite fresh and displays considerable verve. And is also young. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and tightly woven, flowing into a bright fairly tannic finish. A nice balance between the varietals, and though it does need a year to meld, it will be quite nice with red meats. Something to set aside (briefly) and enjoy.
90

Commendator Burlotto Freisa Langhe DOC 2010
Lot FL 111
Lively cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich berry fruit laced with rosa canina and some cumin seed spice, and also slight peppery accents, and some gunflint with a fair amount of alcohol as well. More charged and firm than some vintages. On the palate it's fresh, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm spicy slightly greenish burr with licorice root accents, and flow into a fairly long licorice and berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a powerful zesty key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews. Welcoming on the palate!
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Langhe Nebbiolo 2010
Lot LN 111
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina supported by red berry fruit and some cherry strawberry acidity, and by clean spice. Pleasant to sniff, in a slightly less expansive key than in some vintages. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit accents and acidity that has some orange to it, and flows into a clean bright tannic finish that has some youthful splinteriness to it. Pleasant in a light zesty key and will be very nice with roasts and grilled meats, and if you wanted to be extravagant a burger with good beef and a great cheese would be perfect. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Barolo 2008
Lot L.BR111
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant rosa canina and floral accents mingled with spice and berry fruit; it's classic young Barolo, and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with powerful elegant cherry fruit supported by rosa canina and delicate strawberry orange acidity that flows into a long clean bright spicy finish with a deft tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, though very young, and needs another 2-3 years to come together. One could drink it now but it will reward those with patience.
90

Commendator Burlotto Acclivi Barolo 2008
Lot BRA 111
Lively almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with powerful slightly peppery fruit supported by considerable spice and pleasant underlying rosa canina. Quite young, but promises very well. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with bright fresh cherry fruit supported by moderate strawberry acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly peppery burr. Pleasant, and though it is quite young one could drink it, one would be forcing things to do so. I'd give it 3-5 years and then enjoy it with a hearty stew.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Monvigliero Barolo 2008
Lot BRM 111
Almandine with brilliant almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rich rosa canina laced with nutmeg and spice, and moderate berry fruit that is still working through what it wants to be when it grows up. Quite elegant, and welcoming, but also quite clearly in mid stride,. On the palate it's full and very smooth with ripe rich fruit supported by spicy tannins that have that nutmeg imprint, and by sour berry fruit acidity that has some hints of orange to it and flows into a long spicy berry fruit finish. Beautiful but a toddler; it's a wine that needs 3-5 years and will be worth waiting for.
90-91

Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi Barolo 2008
Lot BRC 111
Lively almandine with brilliant almandine ruby reflections and bright almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by nutmeg laced spice and some peppery accents, and by slight vegetal notes. Pleasant, and rich, but doesn't have the grace of the Monvigliero at present, and may be somewhat broader shouldered in the future. It is now. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with brilliant berry fruit supported by tannins that have some nutmeg and mace spice, and hints of rosa canina to them, and by bright rather mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral tannc finish. It's very young, younger even than the Monvigliero, and to say which will do what in the future is a bit of a crapshoot; the Cannubi is more muscular, whereas the Monvigliero is more graceful, and we will see what happens in the future. Because both wines need time.
90

Verduno: Perlaverga and More

Verduno is a town in the Barolo appellation, and as one might expect, they make Barolo. Very fine Barolo that I find to revolve more around elegance and finesse, as opposed to the power one finds in Serralunga.

But they also have something else, Pelaverga, which is one of the more interesting lesser Piemontese varietals -- a fairly light, sassy, intensely aromatic red with rich spicy aromas that are absolutely unmistakable and invite no quarter. It's a wine that people either like or abhor, and the feelings it engenders are so strong that they even extend to winemakers, who are usually more accommodating of varietal quirks -- especially those of their varietals -- than most: Nick Belfrage says one of the Verduno winemakers he talked to when researching "Barolo Valpolicella" to confessed to not caring for Pelaverga, though he did of course make it.

After the retrospective on the first day of the 2011 Nebbiolo Prima, the afternoons featured various things and one day Commendator Burlotto, Castello di Verduno, and Fratelli Alessandria invited us to Verduno to taste Pelaverga and Barolo on the town common. A beautiful afternoon on the grass with a nice view over the vineyards, and we started with Pelaverga:

Commendator Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga DOC 2010

Pale ruby with pink rim; the bouquet is rich and powerful, with sandalwood spice mingled with red berry fruit, dark flower floral accents, and some dusky underbrush and graphite shavings. Rich, and very nice. On the palate it's full and rich, with bright sandalwood laced red berry fruit supported by sweetish accents and smooth soft tannins, and flows into a long rich spicy berry fruit finish. Very ripe fruit, and extremely pleasant to drink, with complexity to ponder and spice to enjoy. Quite versatile, and will work well with things that are difficult to pair -- I once had a Pelaverga with a bell pepper flan, and it was perfect.
90-92

Fratelli Alessandria Spezziale Verduno Pelaverga 2010

Fairly rich ruby with paler rim, and a more charged nose than the Commendator Burlotto's with more spicy sandalwood power but less finesse, and fewer floral accents. Pleasant, however. On the palate it's full and rich, with berry fruit that powerful, but a touch less intense than Commendator Burlotto's and a touch of brighter greenish acidity, while the tannins have a more savory cast.
2 stars

Castello di Verduno Basadone Verduno DOC 2009

This is from Pelaverga Piccolo grapes, and is pale ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh and elegant, with sandalwood supported by some sour berry fruit and deft acidity; with respect to the 2010 it is less floral and this is a combination of greater age and vintage variation -- it does have some floral notes as it opens. On the palate it's full and smooth, with sweet berry fruit supported by some sandalwood spice and slight savory accents, and flows into a fairly long savory finish. The overall impression is languid and graceful, and it will be quite versatile too.
88-90

After the Pelaverga, came the Barolo

Castello di Verduno Barolo Vigna Monvigliero DOC 1989

Almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. the bouquet is rich, with sour berry fruit supported by balsamic notes and sea salt with dried flowers and, as it opens, savory accents, leaf tobacco, and leathery minerality. A lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant savory berry fruit laced with sea salt and supported by powerful peppery spice and tannins that are ample and savory, flowing into a clean warm savory finish. Beautiful deapth and elegance, and a lot to say.
90-92

Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Monvigliero DOC 1988

From a Magnum
This wine is fermented traditionally, stems and all, and the grapes are pressed by foot to keep from damaging the stems; the fermentation takes place in an open top conical tank, with submerged cap, and maceration is 70 days. In other words, extreme. Almandine with brownish black reflections and pale almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich leather and some rosa canina mingled with leaf tobacco and dried flowers, with pleasing spice as well, and as it opens some truffles also emerge. Terrific complexity, and its being from a magnum certainly helps. The stuff of dreams. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant savory berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and deft slightly mentholated acidity, and by smooth velvety tannins that flow into a long tobacco laced finish with some savory notes. Beautiful, and a great delight to drink.
95-6

Fratelli Alessandria Barolo Monvigliero DOC 1985

Brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to leathery orange. The bouquet is powerful and smoky, with intense savory accents and leaf tobacco supported by some leathery acidity; it's much more tertiary in a chaged way than the other two wines, and as it opens sour notes, dried mushrooms, and raw beef also emerge. On the palate it's ample and very smooth with leathery minerality laced with brown sugar with slight oatmeal accents and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long sweet savory finish with savory balsamic accents. Quite impressive, more on the palate than the nose, which is more charged and -- picking nits here -- a touch coarser. It's very much alive in a leathery, tobaccoey mature key.
90-92

Of the three Baroli, Castello di Verduno comes across at first glance as brighter and younger, primarily because of its acidity, while its tannins are somewhat less velvety. Of the three, it is the wine I would choose to eat with a thick steak, cooked properly rare. The other two are more for meditation, ideally with friends who aren't too talkative.

And the Verduno Pelaverga? A delightful, versatile, easy to drink wine in a particular style, something to seek out, and if you like the style, enjoy considerably.

Commendator Burlotto: Piemontese Tradition and Innovation

I first met Marina Burlotto and her son, Fabio Alessandria, in the hall of the hotel we share at Verona each year during Vinitaly. If I remember right -- it has been many years -- Fabio and I had a discussion on the merits of very long maceration times for Barolo, of the sort that were once common but have now vanished almost completely, and suggested I stop by their stand in the Piemonte pavilion. I did, and was Impressed, and now Commendator Burlotto is usually my last stop at the end of Vinitaly, during which I taste the wines while they take the stand apart and prepare for the long drive home.
This time I was even later than usual, and Marina was happy to have me sitting there while Fabio and his Dad were ferrying stuff to the car, because there was a loud drunk who had finished going through the empty bottles in the stand facing theirs, and was hopefully eyeing the bottles they had not yet packed away.

As I said, Commendator Burrlotto combines innovation and tradition. Innovation in the newer wines, for example Elatis, a rosé that they're forced to bottle as table wine because none of the appellations applicable to the Langhe region contemplate rosé wines. Their whites are also innovative -- they're made from Sauvignon -- as is some of their Barbera, if one can call still call a Barbera aged in small oak innovative. Other wines of the line are instead quite traditional, and range from light and easy to drink -- Dolcetto & Freisa -- through richly aromatic and versatile -- Pelaverga -- and on to profound and extraordinarily complex -- Barolo.

The wines:

Commedator Burlotto Elatis Vino Rosato
55 % Nebbiolo, 35% Pelaverga and 10% Barbera
Pale rose with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by some greenish aromatic accents and hints of sandalwood with pleasant underbrush and some spice from the rgapes. On the palate it's rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by bright sour raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet light tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well as an aperitif or with cookout foods. Versatile, fresh, and an ideal summer wine. Worth seeking out. For the summer months.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Viridis Langhe DOC 2009
This is a Sauvignon Blanc; it's pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite intense, with, well, one writes what one smells, and here there's the seductive odor of a sweaty strawberry blonde. And since I'm male I don't object at all; a woman might find other aromas. As it opens there's airiness and a degree of gooseberry as well, but the aroma is what it is, and it's much more interesting than cat pee. On the palate it's ample, with rich sour gooseberry fruit supported by warmth and greenish acidity that flow into a clean rich gooseberry finish whose aromas bring the blonde to mind again. It's a wine that takes no quarter; if you like Sauvignon you will like it very much, but if you don't it simply won't work for you. Assuming you like it, it would be nice with grilled fish or fried meats and fish, and would also be something to think about serving at a cookout in the summer months. Quite nice in its freshness.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Dives Langhe DOC 2008
Again, a Sauvignon Blanc. Pale greenish brassy gold with brilliant greenish brassy reflections. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents mingled with gooseberry and green lemon acidity; nice depth and quite fresh. On the palate it's rich, with full bright lemony fruit supported by dusky bitter accents that reveal hints of balsamic sea salt and eucalyptus, and flow into a clean bright rather greenish finish. Pleasant, in a much more substantial key than the Viridis; it will work well with hearty fish dishes, and also creamy white meats; I likely wouldn't think to serve it at a cookout, and it also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. If I had several bottles I would set a few aside.
88

Commedator Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga DOC 2009
Elegant pale ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense for a just-bottled wine, with sandalwood and berry fruit mingled with some greenish accents and pleasant spice. A lot going on and very young. On the palate it's ample and rich, with greenish spicy -- sandalwood and some greenish accents, mingled with nutmeg and hints of cardamom -- berry fruit supported by clean bright greenish tannins that flow into a clean rather green tannic berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and quite fresh, and will be perfect with red meats of the sort that are difficult to pair, for example giblets and other organ meats, or with simple grilled meats in the summer months. Pelaverga is particular, it has a spicy richness that you will either like or not, but of you do you will enjoy it very much, and this is quite nice.
88

Commedator Burlotto Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is powerful, with bitter almond blossoms mingled with red berry fruit and some sweetish accents; quite pleasant to sniff and rich too. Considerable depth, and nice fruit laced with alcohol. On the palate it's rich, with clean lively berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by tannins that have a slightly bitter burr and flow into a clean bright bitter berry fruit finish. Considerable depth and quite nice, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also work well with hearty pasta dishes or similar. Quite nice, and what a Dolcetto is all about.
88-90

Commedator Burlotto Barbera D'Alba 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and lively cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively bright berry fruit supported by spice and fairly bright berry fruit acidity; it's quite typical of Barbera and you may find yourself swishing and sniffing repeatedly. On the palate it's rich, with lively berry fruit supported by slightly sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with underlying tartness. It's quick to write but very nice and an ideal food wine with grilled or roasted meats, and will also be nice with stews. You could also -- and Marina Burlotto shudders at this -- use it to season meat ravioli, as they do in the Alessandrino. Well worth seeking out.
90-92

Commedator Burlotto Aves Barbera D'Alba 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and purple rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with berry fruit laced with cedar and some spice, and also a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by spicy tannins and fairly bright dusky acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's very young, and needs to come together yet, while the fruit is elegant but does suffer the influence of the wood, and it flows into a rather bitter finish. Pleasant in a more international key, and to be frank I found myself longing for the freshness of the Barnera D'Alba. This is like a person with a blanket thrown over him. Hidden.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Mores Langhe DOC 2007
This is a bland of Barbera and Nebbiolo. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents from Nebbiolo mingled with berry fruit and spice, and also a pleasant airiness. Quite a bit to sniff and pleasant, with intriguing spicy accents, in particular nutmeg that is from grapes. A lot to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright slightly greenish berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with roasts or stews now, though it also has the capacity to age nicely for 5-8 years
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Langhe Freisa DOC 2007
They have come to the understanding that Freisa needs some bottle age, and hence have kept it a little longer in bottle. Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart berry fruit supported by airy acidity and clean greenish accents with hints of rosa canina and peppery spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's quite fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish dusky burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant in a scrappy key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats -- lesser cuts more than a steak, though one could even do that, and also with stewed or braised red meats more than white. As such, it's a nice wine for a cookout or fall when it's not too cold to fire up the grill.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Nebbiolo D'Alba 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich slightly lemony berry fruit supported by clean spice and slight greenish vegetal accents that many people don't associate with Nebbiolo, but that are instead integral to the grape. Nice depth and balance, and considerable freshness. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright almost citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh rather tannic finish with tart berry fruit underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with a stew or a roast, and will also be nice at a cookout with succulent grilled meats; it has quite enough tannin and acidity to stand up to a porterhouse cut cooked rare.
90

Commedator Burlotto Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with rosa canina and deft berry fruit supported by pleasant spice; it's very young but displays considerable depth and has a lot going for it, and is obviously at the beginning of a long climb,. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a lively brambly youth to them and by deft leathery mineral acidity that flows into a dry berry fruit tannic finish. It's very young, and though one could drink it now with a steak it needs time, a couple of years, at least, and will do very impressive things in a decade or more. A wine that will be impressive if you give it time, in a fairly traditional style.
88

Commedator Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by nutmeg laced spice from grape and delicate berry fruit; it's quite harmonious and very young; there are obviously many things yet to develop in the nose. It's not quite like looking at a half-finished canvas, but almost. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with deft tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, though again very young and now it's a toddler wandering the schoolyard. It needs at least a couple of years to get it bearings and decide where it will go. It will be worth waiting for too.
90

Commedator Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is young but quite impressive, with elegant spice -- nutmeg and hints of clove -- mingled with cherry prune and some rosa canina. Beautiful though very, very young. At the beginning of a very long climb. Impressive. On the palate it's rich and smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well with roasts or stews, though one would be a fool to open in before 3-5 years, because it's a wine that will age for decades, and to interrupt that path now would simply be wrong.
92

Commedator Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi Barolo 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with some rosa canina and deft berry fruit spice mingled with some greenish accents with hints of leaf tobacco and alcohol. Very young, and though it has spent several months in bottle it's really not ready yet. On the palate it's full and quite smooth with soft fresh berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. It's quite elegant, and very young, but doesn't have the depth of the Monvigliero, and I would give it time. Some fellow journalists have said it's readier than the other crus, but readier is a relative term. At least 5 years, before it will be ready to think about being drunk.
88-90

Commendator Burlotto's Site (they also have a nice Agriturismo)