Showing posts with label Sangiovese. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sangiovese. Show all posts

Friday, July 13, 2012

Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva il Poggio: A Vertical



The 1962 In the Glass


This year marks the 50th anniversary of Fabrizio Bianchi's decision to try something that at the time was a radical innovation for Chianti Classico: Making a wine from a single vineyard. It was Chianti Classico's first, and is from the vineyard that still yields the cuttings for all of Castello di Monsanto's other vineyards.

Not that one would necessarily recognize the Il Poggio vineyard if one were to go back in time: It was 2.8 hectares then (as opposed to the current 5), but more importantly it was a vigneto promiscuo, farmed according to the old tenant farmer tradition that dictated one plant other crops between the rows of vines, and olive and fruit trees too.

But the grapes were good, and Fabrizio therefore fermented them according to local custom, which dictated one throw the bunches, stems and all, into chestnut vats -- he admits to having had doubts, because his relatives in Piemonte did things differently, but did things the Tuscan way, with punch-downs and pumpovers, and also included the white grapes traditionally used. The aging was for 4 years in large (30 hectoliter) chestnut casks because that's what they had, and the results were good, good enough that he decided to continue, and one of the things he did was replant the vineayrd just to vine.

He also began to innovate; by 1968 he had stopped fermenting whole bunches with their stems, was fermenting (with punchdowns and pumpovers) in temperature controlled steel, and had also decided to work only with the red grapes of the blend, primarily Sangiovese, with about 10% Canaiolo and some Colorino. Aging was still for 4 years, in chestnut casks.

But he was thinking about that too, and by the time 1974 rolled around was just pumping over in the fermentation tanks, and had decided to age the wine in 50 hectoliter Slavonian oak casks, for a little less -- 3 1/2 years.

And so things continued through 1979, 1985, and 1988. More innovation with the 1995 vintage, however; 40% of the wine aged in barriques and the remainder in 50 hectoliter Slavonian oak casks, all for 18 months, and then spent another 6 months in cask after assembly.

Barriques made further headway in 1999, when the wine was entirely barrique aged, in a mixture of new and used barriques, and rested in steel for 3 months after assembly. Things stayed the same in 2001, while in the 2008 vintage we finished with, the wine was aged in a mixture of barriques and tonneaux.

The Wines, tasted June 30 2012 

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1962
Brownish garnet with Moroccan leather reflections and rim, which pales to orange. The bouquet is powerful, and though clearly mature has a pleasant rich freshness to it, with spice and leaf tobacco mingled with some leather and dried roses, and considerable underlying slightly balsamic sea salt, and as it opens some hints of lathered horse as well. Something one can meditate about. On the palate it's fresh, with bright sour prune fruit supported by sour prune acidity and some leathery accents, and silky tannins that gain direction from bright prune acidity that keeps the wine very much on its toes, and flows into a long tart finish. Very impressive, with acidity that is frankly scrappy -- it was made with white grapes, and the entire bunches went into the tini -- and of a sort that will guarantee many more years of life to the wine.  Beautiful, and a child of a different winemaking technique, one that was more approximate but could be sublime when everything fell into place, and that I miss.
93-4

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1968

Here they destemmed the grapes for the first time. Slightly duskier tawny garnet ruby with brownish reflections and Moroccan leather rim. The bouquet is more mature than the 62's with saddle leather and some spice with slight dried flowers, some savory notes, and fairly intense chestnut leaves as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by floral notes and pleasant savory accents, and flows into a long clean savory sour cherry finish with slight leathery underpinning. The tannins are quite smooth, and silkier than the 62's, and the wine as a while is more delicate than its older cousin, and this is because of the destemming, which removes a degree of scrappiness. The wine is very much alive, however. Just a touch more genteel.
93

Both the 62 and the 68 display terrific austerity.

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1974

Lively brownish almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is elegant, with dried flowers and some savory notes, and some minerality mingled with struck granite, and fairly intense saddle leather. It's not quite as fruity on the nose as the older vintages, especially the first. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that are smoother, and reveal the influence of oak as opposed to the chestnut of the first two vintages. It's extremely elegant, displaying great depth, and does have that acidic imprint, but is I think a bit more mature than the 68, and to a greater degree than the 62, because the acidity isn't as brash. Very pleasant, and a wine that has a great deal to say even now.
88-90

Beautiful continuity from vintage to vintage; they're very much cut from the same cloth.

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1979
Brownish almandine with deep black almandine reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is deft, with balsamic accents and spice mingled with berry fruit and some dried flowers, and some mineral spice and acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit that has a leathery underpinning and some vegetal notes, and flows into a long rich leather and balsam laced sour cherry finish. Very much alive, and graceful, in a slightly lighter key than some of the others. It has a lot to say and is quite engaging in a slightly tomboyish way, and this is not something one expects of a wine that is more than 30 years old. Terrific freshness.
90-92

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1985
Deep black almandine ruby with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with balsamic accents mingled with spice and leather, and supported by berry fruit and hints of shellac; it's tertiary but quite fresh and quite elegant. On the palate it's beautiful, with rich bright red cherry fruit supported by slight sweetness from hints of residual sugar that are a result of the length of the summer, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly sweet prune finish with some savory accents. Quite pleasant, and shows an influence of the vintage that other vintages don't, in the sweetness and the sugars, while the acidity, which is present, isn't quite as marked. Impressive in any case; with respect to the 79 it is more approachable, and the sort of wine that one could serve to a wine loving friend who drinks wines to enjoy them, not to ponder them. This said, even a wine geek will find things to enjoy.
90-92

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1988
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory red berry fruit supported by slight balsamic accents and some savory notes. It gives an impression of having been a warmer summer; there are also fresh prune accents, and some Moroccan leather. On the palate it's fresh, with elegant sour prune fruit supported by slightly leathery tannins and moderate acidity -- there's less than in the 85 -- that flow into a fairly long rather savory balsamic finish that has a dry tannic underpinning that brings chestnut leaves to mind though the wine is in oak, and also reveals some pencil shaving bitterness that is oak related. Rambling here. The wine is in any case pleasant, though the acidity is a little less marked than the previous vintages, and I find it to be somewhat lacking in this respect. Roundness and smoothness steps in for acidity.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1995

Deep black almandine with black almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leathery notes and some balsamic accents mingled with leaf tobacco, and some warm mineral spice mingled with savory notes. Pleasant in a more ethereal key, and this is in keeping with the vintage, which was cooler. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry prune fruit supported by considerable prune acidity that echoes the older wines, and this is because of the coolness of the vintage, while the tannins are smooth, but do have a slight burr, and flow into a long sour berry fruit finish. The acidity is back! And the wine is very enjoyable in a graceful scrappy key, an odd combination, but it works.
90-91

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1999
This is, Fabrizio says, destined to be the longest lived wine Monsanto has ever made. The wine marks a change of sorts, it's more towards ruby with slight hints of garnet in the rim, but less of the orange cast and reflections that the older wines displayed. The nose also changes, with rich red berry fruit supported by dusky leathery accents and brooding shadow, menthol, and woodsy herbs; a fellow taster says it reminds him of a Barolo, and he has a point. Very impressive, but different. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft slightly leathery acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a long rather tannic finish with some leathery accents and hints of Moroccan leather that echo the older wines. Beautiful and extremely fresh; it's still very young, and though one could open a bottle now if one had one, if one had more than a couple one would want to set most of them aside. Very fine, and has a long ways to go; a fellow taster says that it's the wine everyone will agree on and find something to enjoy. And he's right.
92-3

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim that has slight almandine accents. The bouquet is young, and intense, with berry fruit and spice mingled with savory notes and sea salt, and also slight shellac. It's not still coming together, but is still quite young. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a fairly rich oaky component and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant, and much more modern in style, with a richness and ripeness of fruit and a smoothness that the older wines don't display as much, while there is also a more pronounced alcoholic warmth. It's welcoming, and elegant now, but how it will be when it's the age of the older wines is something to confirm. It's more modern in style, and this is in part the vintage, but may also be changes in winemaking.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim paling to white. Fresh, and very young on the nose,with ith lively cherry fruit supported by some dusky black cherry sweetness, and by moderate acidity. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's quite pleasant, but again quite young, with beight cherry and forest berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that lay a dusty burr over the tongue and flow into a bright fairly tart finish. The acidity is there, hearkening back to some of the older vintages, and it has a pleasing vibrancy to it that I didn't note as much in the 01 or the 99; it's very young, and very fresh, and displays great potential. A fellow taster says it's a return to the past, and in some ways it is, though we'll have to taste several vintages before we can say this.
90

After more than an hour, the 62 is even fresher than it was at the beginning… And this is something worrisome, because it leads me to wonder if the more recent wines, made with oak as opposed to chestnut, and, more importantly, fruit that was likely riper (in 1962 winemaking was quite empiric) will hold up as well as it has. Quibbles, truth be told, because if I had a bottle of the 1988 I wouldn't sit on it for another 26 years to find out.

The tasting ended with much animated conversation; for logistical reasons the Bianchis divided us into Italian and non-Italian speakers, and I went with the Italians, most of whom (me included) were bowled over by the freshness of the 1962, and also much impressed by the 99, which is cut from the same cloth but in a more modern key. The non-Italian speakers, I was told, were perhaps more impressed by the 99. It was in any case a most impressive tasting; the standard was universally high, and allowing for improvements in agronomic and winemaking technique, the wines displayed a degree of continuity from vintage to vintage that isn't anywhere near as common as one might expect.

Wines to think about, remember, and perchance dream about.

A few more pictures from the tasting.

Monday, May 07, 2012

The 2012 Chianti Classico Anteprima




The 2012 Chianti Classico Anteprima was once again held in Florence's Stazione Leopolda, and once again featured a day of sit-down tastings followed by a day of talking to the winemakers. Both of which were quite nice, and entirely too brief considering the number of wines being presented: 292 between Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, and (at the tasting booths) a variety of IGT wines as well.

Faced with this many wines in this little time one picks and chooses, and that is what I did. As you might expect, I picked names I was familiar with or had heard good things about, and as a result the scores taken as a group are likely higher than they would have been had I simply tasted in sequence.

Before we get to the wines, a couple of things:

The most important news of the event was Antinori's decision to rejoin the Consorzio, one that I cannot help but view with favor. Antinori is one of the most important central Tuscan wineries, and their not being in the Chianti Classico Consorzio did strike an odd note.

Next, a couple of thoughts on the vintages:This year there were Chianti Classico wines from the 2010, 2009, 2008 and 2007 vintages, and Chianti Classico Riserva from the 2009, 2008, 2007, and 2006 vintages; as a general rule winemakers presenting the 2010 Chianti Classico presented the 2009 Riserva, while those presenting the 2009 Chianti Classico presented the 2008 or older Riserva.

I instead began with the Riserve and worked forward, and though I did get to the 2009 Chianti Classico I didn't taste many 2010 wines, because there were many barrel samples, which are interesting but not really finished wines yet.

The 2006 vintage is by now a known quantity: Powerful, rather brooding, and quite intense, wines that have great potential but need time to develop.

The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva impressed me less: the vintage wines were brash, and skittish -- nervous even -- and while I liked that in the young fresh wines, it doesn't work as well in the Riserve, which seem more strident and less graceful, rather like a tomboy who continues to act like a tomboy when she has reached adulthood. There are of course some good 2007 Chianti Classico Riserve, but you should select with care because they're not sure bets.

The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico D'Annata impressed me quite favorably, with nice freshness and richness of fruit; it is I think a better vintage than 2007.

The 2009 Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico D'Annata? Neither made a tremendous impression on me one way or the other. I will have to taste more before I say something.

The wines, in the order in which I tasted the first wine listed:Castello di Ama

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with slightly candied cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents and some dusky graphite shaving bitterness. It's a bit more brooding than some years, with a touch more alcohol and slight mentholated accents as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite deft, with fairly bright slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly long cedar laced finish with hints of hazelnut. Graceful, and beautifully controlled; it's a wine that will also age quite nicely for a decade at least. Nice balance too. With respect to other years it's a little less rich in terms of fruit, and a bit more linear, though this is also youth.
2 stars

Castello di Monsanto 

Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable mentholated berry fruit supported by alcohol and cedar shavings, and some underlying vegetal notes, and as it opens spicy barnyard tang.. On the palate it's deft, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and velvety, though they do display a deft slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with sour cherry underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will also age well for many years, rewarding those blessed with patience.
90-91

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by some wood smoke and slight strawberry acidity with some greenish notes as well. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's deft, with bright slightly greenish cherry fruit supported by fairly bright vegetal acidity and by tannins that are dry and flow into a clean vegetal finish. It does reflect the nervous nature of the vintage, and will be pleasant with steaks, though I wouldn't drink it by the glass far from the table now. With time it may become ethereal, but there isn't that much fruit behind the tannins.
2 stars

Castello di Vicchiomaggio 

Castello di Vicchiomaggio Vigna La Prima Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated berry fruit supported by greenish brambly accents and some spice, and also a fair amount of alcohol; it has a scrappy feel to it. On the palate it's bright, with slightly riper than expected cherry fruit that has slight candied sweetness, and is supported by greenish acidity and splintery tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish cedar laced finish with lasting warmth. Not for sipping, but will work very well with a steak or roast.
2 stars

Ruffino

Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cedar laced cherry fruit supported by some mentholated accents and hardwood ash with warm spice as well, and hints of strawberry and peach. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with slightly less intense cherry fruit than I expected supported by smooth cedar laced tannins that have a slight graphite shavings burr and flow into a fairly long slightly bitter cedar laced finish. Elegant, in what is not a traditional style, but has a 1970s feel to it, especially in the wood, which is more pronounced and emerges rather strongly in the finish. A walk down memory lane, and if you liked that period you will enjoy it..
2 stars

Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with a fair amount of alcohol supported by some red berry fruit with dusky balsamic accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, and medium bodied, with sour cherry fruit that's a little brighter than I expected supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish. It's brighter than one might expect from the nose, and I would give the nose a year to catch up; it has a pleasing liveliness to the fruit though there are also some balsamic accents. In terms of feel, it echoes the Riserva Ducale, and reminds me of the wines from when I was growing up.
2 stars

Ormanni  

Ormanni Borro del Diavolo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky cherry fruit supported by smooth slightly greenish acidity and by some mentholated accents; it's nicely controlled and quite rich. On the palate it's rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish acidity and by tannins that have a clean slightly peppery burr, and flow into a long sour cherry finish. A beautiful wine with great elegance, and also essential, everything just where it should be, and it will age beautifully for many years. Impressive.
90-91

Ormanni Chianti Classico DOCG 2009 Ormanni Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by pleasant floral accents and fairly intense spice, with a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a greenish berry fruit finish. Zesty, and a wine that will drink easily with foods, in a rather brash up front key. In your face, even, and you have to like this style. If you do you will drink it by the bucket.
2 stars

Tenuta di Lilliano
 

Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Pale cherry ruby with cherry rim The bouquet is delicate, with wild strawberries supported by some menthol and slight bitterness, also slight spice, towards cumin. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by slight greenish accents that flow into a clean rather splintery finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and will work well with grilled meats or stews. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and pleasantly greenish, with cut green (unripe) peaches mingled with some leaf tobacco and pleasant spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are peppery, dry, and glancing, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Zesty and up front, it's a wine that will drink well with zesty foods, for example grilled sausages or succulent stews.
2 stars

Vignamaggio 

Vignamaggio Monna Lisa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit that has slight mentholated jammy accents supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some underlying cedar. Rather dusky. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a clean splintery finish that's a little drier than I might have liked. It's a wine that will work nicely with succulent meats, but that I wouldn't drink by the glass, at least not within 5 years.
2 stars

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly greenish with vegetal notes and spice supporting some berry fruit, though what really comes through is the greenness, and as it opens graphite shavings.. On the palate it's rather dusky, with greenish berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a bitter finish.  I'd have liked more verve and life; it's a little flat.
1 star

Borgo Scopeto

Borgo Scopeto Misciano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is brooding, with moderate berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and cedar-laced spice with some sea salt and some hardwood ash. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit that's overcome by tannins that have a slightly bitter cedary burr and continue at length, into a dry tannic finish with some berry fruit acidity. A little too much wood, for my tastes, which has dried out the wine.
1 star

Castello di Bossi  

Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep almandine ruby with hints of brown towards the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and deft slightly smoky acidity that rises up to tingle the nose, and shift with time towards strawberry, and some dried flowers as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory spice and by tannins that have a distinctly cedary burr and flow into a fairly long dry cedar laced finish with a dusky brooding note to it, and echoes of the floral accents on the nose. It's pleasant in a heavily oaked style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; because of the tannic dryness it will would be a good bet with succulent meats, even if you're not a tremendous fan of the style.
2 stars

Monteraponi 

Monteraponi Baron Ugo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Lively ruby with almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal laced berry fruit supported by hints of tar and brambly acidity, and by some greenish accents too, also some leaf tobacco and slight leather, and as it opens nice sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, flowing into a long slightly greenish berry fruit finish. Very pleasant in a traditional key, and will also age beautifully. If you have more than a couple of bottles, set most of them aside for at least 3-5 years.
88-90

Monteraponi Il Campitello Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009Barrel sample
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with warmth and some sweetish balsamic accents with pleasant spice as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and bright deft berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean slightly herbal berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a deft key, and will very nice in a traditional key in 2-5 years. Needs time.

Torraccia di Presura

Torraccia di Presura Il Tarocco Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with sea salt and some spice, and supported by some dusky underbrush and slight barnyard tang. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly dry, and flow into a long rather sour cherry finish. It's heavily oaked, and you have to like the style, but if you do you will enjoy it, though you should drink it with foods -- it's not a wine to drink by the glass.
2 stars

Castello della Paneretta

Castello della Paneretta Torre a Destra Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some chalk and pleasant dried flowers with some savory accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with moderately rich -- it does display the slight leanness typical of 2007 -- cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity with some red berry fruit accents, and by clean bright slightly greenish tannins with a peppery burr, and it flows into a clean long sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and they have changed considerably since I last tasted them, shifting towards a more traditional style. If you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Castello della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit laced with raspberry acidity and some jammy accents, while there is also something brooding to it that brings purple to mind. On the palate it's bright and fresh with lively slightly greenish plum laced berry fruit supported by smooth spicy tannins that flow into a clean greenish fruit laced finish. Zesty, and a wine to drink now with pasta dishes or simple grilled meats; you will likely want a second bottle.
2 stars

Villa di Geggiano

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some strawberry, and also some dried flowers, with pleasant savory accents as well. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate greenish acidity and tannins that are dusky and rather bitter, with a cedar underpinning and quite a bit of alcohol. It's a child of the vintage, and more nervous and less rich than I had hoped it to be.
2 stars

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still muted, though swishing brings up some spice and as it opens berry fruit with some mentholated accents, and some greenish accents as well. Deft. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant bright cherry fruit supported by deft slightly splintery tannins and clean minerality, which flow into a fairly long, fairly bright berry fruit finish with splintery underpinning. It's quite young, but promises nicely and will drink well with foods. A wine one could easily drink by the bucket.
2 stars

Villa di Geggiano Bandinello Toscana IGT 2010
This is 60% Sangiovese, 20% Syrah and 20% Ciliegiolo, and spends 3 months in large wood to clear its head, say Andrea and Alessandro. It's lively almandine with bright almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh with cheery berry fruit supported by peppery spice, underbrush, and some sweet berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and light sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish. Quite pleasant in a fresh lively key, a classic cookout or picnic wine for the summer months -- easy to drink, non-aggressive, and lots of fruit. Expect it to go very fast.
2 stars

Castello di Cacchiano 

Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006


Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and also fairly mature, with berry fruit supported by some leaf tobacco and leather, and by slight bramble as well, with underlying grassy notes more than vegetal, and some dried flowers and cypress -- mobile di sacristia, the aroma of a sacristy out in the country. On the palate it's medium bodied, though a touch thin in terms of the fruit; it's dusky cherry with some candied notes, and is supported by mentholated berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth and glancing, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish that becomes rather dry. The tannins are a touch more powerful than the fruit needs, and end up carrying in the finish; I found the nose to be more interesting and more graceful than the palate.
2 stars

Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2007

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsam laced red berry fruit supported by some sour currant acidity and hints of cassis mingled with some leafy underbrush and slight pungency. On the palate it's graceful, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by slight black currant fruit that confers roundness, and by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but do display a dusky cedar laced burr, and flow into a clean slightly sour cherry finish. Graceful, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews; it's fairly traditional in feel and if you like that style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Badia a Coltibuono Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with bright sour berry fruit supported by considerable sea salt and some balsamic accents with some brambles and savory spice as well. On the palate it's full, smooth, and quite bright with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a youthful tannic burr in the finish. Quite pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will work very well with red meats. One doesn't normally set out and drink a Riserva, but it could happen here.
2 stars

They ran out by the time I had worked up to 2010, and I had to taste this with Emanuela the next day:

Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2010

Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasant berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some graphite shaving, with underlying vinous notes. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and light smooth slightly savory tannins with a warm butt. Very pleasant and is one of those wines that can be drunk a secchiate, by the bucket. You will want more bottles.

Caparsa 

Carparsa Caparsino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the nobody home variety, though with swishing some floral accents and berry fruit emerge. On the palate it's bright, with rich, lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slightly splintery, youth at work, and flow into a rather peppery finish. It's quite pleasant but woefully young, and needs another 3-5 years to be more presentable. A wine for the future, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will very much enjoy it, though in a while.
2 stars

Caparsa Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shit tight, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight spice, and also some strawberry fruit as well. Needs time. On the palate it's still coming together, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by spice and quite intense finely woven tannins that are at present rather dry, and flow into a dry tannic finish with lasting savory accents and hints of dried flowers. It's further behind than the Caparsino, but perhaps has more potential, and when the tannins have folded in, in 2-3 years' time, will be very nice.
2 stars

Castello di Querceto 

Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's darker than some. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by some strawberry acidity and delicate mentholated cedar and some spice; it's middle of the road but not really tight. On the palate it's ample, at the outset, with moderately rich slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a warm fairly savory finish with a long tannic underpinning. It's a touch tired, with the fruit surrendering a little more space to the tannins than I might have liked.
1 star

Castello di Verrazzano 
 

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slight rusticity, a dash of barnyard tang that is supported by savory notes and some berry fruit with slight graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and flow into a clean savory tannic finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with foods, though it's not ready now to be drink far from the table.
2 stars

Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly green with powerful vegetal accents, approaching artichoke stems, supported by deft greenish acidity and some bitter almond accents as well, with, as it opens, slight barnyard tang. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate fruit supported by dry tannins; I'd have liked richer brighter fruit than I found.
1 star

Castello di Volpaia

Castello di Volpaia Coltassala Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some cumin seed mingled with some sea salt; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by delicate strawberry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly soft; the fruit is a little leaner than I might have liked, though it does have a pleasing sour cherry base to it. The palate is a little further along than the nose, and I would give the nose time to develop. This said, I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit, considering that this is a Riserva.
1 star

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with mineral accents mingled with lemon, mint and savory spice; the combination brings a mohito to mind. Unusual, and to be honest, were one to give it to me in a black opaque glass and ask what it is by smell alone I'm not sure what I would say. On the palate it's clearly wine, with fairly bright greenish cherry fruit supported by spicy berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are clean and have a fresh slightly greenish burr, while the finish has red berry fruit and aromas that echo the nose. It's unusual, and will work well with simple grilled meats through hearty stews, but you have to be prepared for something that isn't quite in the norm.
1 star

Fattoria La Ripa 
 

Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice, and by some leaf tobacco as well, also some dried flowers. Pleasant in a fairly traditional but ripe key. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity that also has some wild strawberry accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean sour berry fruit finish with some sweetness that is also alcohol. Quite pleasant though still very young, and while one could drink it now with succulent meats, it will reward those who have the patience to give it time. Something to think about if you're more traditionally minded.
2 stars

Fattoria la Ripa Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly cooked berry fruit supported by unusual mentholated accents and as it opens pleasant berry fruit. On the palate it's pleasant, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity with strawberry accents and clean spicy tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Pleasant in a light zesty key, and though fairly direct will go very well with foods, a wine that one could drink quite a bit of.
2 stars

Fontodi

Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008


Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with a great dela of cedar and some greenish accents with underlying berry fruit that is sufficient to (barely) emerge, with moderate acidity as well. Very international in style. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that are ample and cedar laced, flowing into a warm savory cedar laced finish with fairly tart underpinning. A fellow taster might have liked more acidity, but I found it to be well balanced, with acidity and fruit working well together; what it needs is time because the nose is at least a year behind the palate. If you are not really traditionally minded you will enjoy it, however.
2 stars

Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Lively cherry ruby with bright reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with strawberry and berry fruit supported by pleasant strawberry acidity and some cedar with a smattering of cumin seed and some mentholated accents. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite deft, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry strawberry acidity and tannins that have a youthful peppery burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's graceful in a fairly international key and will drink very well with foods, and will also age well for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
88-90

Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 2008


Lively almandine with almandine reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is pleasant though young, with berry fruit supported by some vegetal notes, leather, and spice; it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and powerful, with cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that have a warm peppery burr.. Impressive, but a work in progress, and though one could drink it now it will be much more interesting in 3-5 years, and will age for a decade or more. In short, give it time. The score reflects today.
2 stars

Fattoria Nittardi 

Fattoria Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and some cedar underpinning it, together with some lathered horse. On the palate it's ample and fairly bitter, with moderately intense ripe cherry plum fruit supported more by warmth than by acidity, and by tannins that are warm and peppery with an oaky overlay that flows into a warm peppery finish. There's a lot of oak and the wine is still working on digesting it; it's quite international in key, and something to consider only if you like this heavily oaked style.
1 star

Lamole di Lamole 

Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry fruit with nice floral accents, violets in particular, supported by graphite shavings and some vegetal notes, while there is also jammy slightly vegetal sweetness. On the palate it's quite ripe, with intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly clean fresh berry fruit finish with slight peppery accents. It's approachable in a ripe fruit driven key and quite drinkable, though the tannins will profit from another year. If you prefer tighter more acidic wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably
2 stars

Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Pale black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by yellow peach and some greenish dusky accents and some bramble, with slight bitterness as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean greenish accents and deft greenish berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly sweet. Considerable finesse, and quite pleasant to drink in a rather brash style; it will work very well with foods, and you will likely want a second bottle.
2 stars

Barone Ricasoli

Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2009 


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is quite young, and also quite fresh, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and spice, also some sea salt. Quite promising in a model of the road key though it needs another year. On the palate it's further along, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by moderate rather brambly acidity and by tannins that are silky, with some brambly pencil shaving accents, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It is already drinkable, but will give more of itself in a year or two, and will age nicely for 3-5 .
2 stars

Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

The bouquet is fairly rich, with some berry fruit supported by savory accents and underbrush, and also by some wet earth, also slight vegetal notes and hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, with some brambly accents and some wet leafy notes, and by tannins that are slightly toasted, and flow into a clean savory finish with some wood toast. Pleasant though I found the tannins, which have a touch of vegetal to them, a little less pleasant than those of the Brolio. A personal preference, and the wine will in any case work well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Barone Ricasoli ColledilĂ  Chianti Classico DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is pleasant, with wild cherry fruit supported by dusky accents and clean spice, also some India ink bitterness and hints of quinine, some spice, slight cedar. On the palate it's quite elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by sour slightly brambly greenish accents, and by bright savory acidity, and tannins that are smooth and fairly silky with some brambly underpinning, and flow into a long rather bright sour cherry finish. Quite elegant, and deft, a young finely muscled athlete -- dancer, almost, and will also age nicely for a number of years. If you like the style you could drink it by the glass, but it will really give its best with red meats. Quite pleasant, and something to think about seeking out for now and for the relatively near -- 5-10 years -- future. Great finesse.
90-92

Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is still quite young, with cherry fruit supported by deft cedar and some spice; it needs a couple of years to come together but is quite promising. At present a bit one track, and this is youth. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by tannins that are clean and cedar laced, with warm savory balsamic accents, and flows into a long rather balsamic finish that goes on and on. Beautiful, and a distinct step up from the other wines, it will work very well with red meats and would be hard to beat beside a porterhouse cut. Quite impressive, and though one could drink it now it will also age very well for 10 years at least, and if you have patience it will reward you.
92-4


Poggerino

Poggerino Bugialla Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008 Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intnes, with warm sour berry fruit laced with rather blocky acidity and hints of bown sugar and oatmeal, which is unusual in a red and likely wood fruit interaction, and as it opens further fairly marked savory accents. Quite a bit of wood. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warmth and by tannins that have a warm savory cedar laced burr, which fades into cedary bitterness in the finish. It's heavily oaked, and in the clear evidence of the oak feels like a wine from a few years ago, but has a certain grace and nice fruit, while the tannins from the grapes are elegant. If you like the style you, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

San Felice

San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008


Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by deft slightly dusky cedar and some savory spice, also slight peppery accents and a certain airiness from alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity that has some leatheriness to it, and by warm rather balsamic tannins that flow into a fairly long balsam laced finish. It has a tired feel to it, and I would have liked more depth and richness to the fruit.
1 star

San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by yellow peach and greenish accents with some cedar as well, and  some spice. On the palate it displays pleasant fruit on the outset, but draws up quickly, with the tannins taking over and flowing into a very quick tannic finish. It's short, and dries out on the palate too.
1 star

Casa Sola

Casa Sola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009


Barrel sample
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some berry fruit emerges, with some cedar as well and hints of hazelnut. On the palate it's warm and fairly rich on the outset, with moderately intense berry fruit that gets diverted by angry peppery spicy tannins that flow into a spicy fairly alcoholic finish. An angry baby, and it's too soon to say what it will do.

Castello di Monastero

Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite bitter, with graphite shavings and some iodine mingled with spice and alcohol, and underlying cedar with some underbrush; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly fresh cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and warmth from alcohol, and by tannins that have an angry peppery burr and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish with peppery tannic underpinning.
1 star

FĂ©lsina 

Félsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar and cypress -- it bring to mind a sacristy out in the country -- and some cedar-laced acidity, while there is also a brooding duskiness to it. Very young but showing polish. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable warmth and sour berry fruit acidity laced with cedar from the tannins, which are young and rather bitter, flowing into a cocoa laced warm tannic finish. It's quite young, but promises nicely in a fairly modern key, and will do interesting things with time. Give it 3-5 years to get its bearing and come together.
2 stars

La Porta di Vertine

La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with mentholated berry fruit supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance and very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a spicy peppery burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish supported by some ripe berry fruit and warmth. It's a rather zesty wine, and if you like the style you will enjoy it
2 stars

Podere Castellinuzza

Podere Castellinuzza Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009


Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with a lot of alcohol mingled with graphite shavings and greenish cedar, and also some leaf tobacco, with an underpinning of iodine. Not much fruit. On the palate it's powerful, with moderately intense berry fruit that is largely overshadowed by oak, while the acidity is rather mineral with brambly accents, and it flows into a rather brambly finish. If you like this sort of greenishness you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star

Villa Calcinaia

Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with slight greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some splintery notes; it has a deft feel to it. On the palate it's bright, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by greenish wild strawberry acidity and by tannins that are dry and have a greenish cast and flow into a clean fairly bright finish. Pleasant, in a graceful key, and will drink very well with roasts and hearty stews.
2 stars

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate berry fruit supported by floral accents and some mentholated spice; nice depth and it gives an impression of verve. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sour berry fruit acidity with some raspberry accents, and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's pleasant in a simple direct key, and will drink well with foods, supporting rather than getting in the way. Expect a second bottle to be necessary.
2 stars

Tasted the Next Day:

Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

From 2 vineyards, one planted on clays, the only clayey vineyard they have, and the other facing west. Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with brambly cherry fruit supported by deft slightly vegetal acidity and by pleasing bitter accents, with slight cedar as well. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by slightly dusky berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have a certain peppery tang of youth, and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a graceful key, and though it does need another year to get its bearings will age quite nicely, and be very nice with red meats.
2 stars

And More!

I have often enjoyed Villa Calcinaia's Chianti Classico, and when I saw that Sebastiano had some non-Chianti bottles, I did feel curious. Turns out he's experimenting with a number of older varietals that were growing in the vineyards, harvesting them separately and microvinifying them in barrels, than aging them in caratelli, wich are small barrels, because of the low volumes produced. For now these wines, which are in a line called Microlinee, are not for general sale, though one can buy them in Villa Calcinaia's shop on the way into Greve.

Villa Calcinaia Mammolo Le Microlinee IGT Toscana 2009

In addition to being a varietal name the word Mammolo means Violet, and the wines from Mammolo tend to be low in tannin content and high in acidity. Dusky almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with strawberry and spice supported by some acidity and slightly greenish notes, also some cedar. Intriguing, with slight peppery accents as it opens. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth rather slight tannins that flow into a warm finish that echoes the wild strawberry from the nose. Quite pleasant, a lark of a wine that will be perfect in the summer months.
2 stars

Villa Calcinaia Sanforte Le Microlinee IGT Toscana 2009

Sanforte is an indigenous varietal that ripens a little sooner than Sangiovese, developing higher sugar contents, and was called Sanforte by the farmers because it gave higher alcohol contents. Wild boar love it. Lively ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky greenish accents supported by underbrush and fairly intense spice. Quite different from Sangiovese. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with languid cherry fruit supported by equally languid cherry acidity and tannins that are quite smooth, with a softness that brings a baby's bottom to mind -- not to say something more voluptuous -- and flows into a fairly long cherry strawberry finish with some vegetal accents but not much in the way of tannins. Quite interesting and will work very well in wine bars and similar places, because it is very easy to drink.
2 stars

Villa Calcinaia Occhio Rosso Le Microlinee IGT Toscana 2009

Occhio Rosso, Red Eye, is a varietal from the town of Lamole, a few miles from Greve, which gets its name from the fact that the bunches develop red spots that look like eyes during the Vernissage, when they change color. The wine is almandine with white rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with spice and underbrush which mingle, as it opens, with some leaf tobacco and hints of raw beef that becomes ashy as it opens, and some greenish accents also emerge. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by some leathery greenish accents and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a spicy peppery burr. Pleasant in a more direct key, and with a little more tannic bite, which will make it more of a food wine. Of the three, it is perhaps the weakest, at least in this vintage. I'll be curious to try another vintage!
1 star

Castello di Fonterutoli 

Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2008


Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and powerful spice, nutmeg in particular, and also by some delicate floral accents. Quite a bit going on in a decidedly international key. On the palate it's full, with bright red cherry fruit supported by warmth and acidity, and by tannins that are smooth with a clean savory cedar overlay that gradually fades into bitterness in the finish. Quite pleasant in a very international key, with ripeness but not overripe, and if you are of more international tastes you will enjoy it very much; even a traditionalist will find things to ponder.
2 stars

Cecchi

Cecchi Riserva di Famiglia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit that has slight candied -- almost gummy bear -- accents, and some pleasing vegetal accents with some underlying graphite shavings. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a dry rather bitter finish that becomes splintery as the tannins emerge. It's pleasant, if you like this style, and will work well with grilled meats. But you have to like the style. 
2 stars

Castell'in Villa

Castell'in Villa Poggio delle Rose Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008


Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some bitterness and moderately intense balsamic accents as well. On the palate it's more interesting than the nose at the outset, with berry fruit that's initially fairly rich, but then clamps down considerably, with the tannins flowing over all and dictating their law. The fruit is pleasant, but it needs time to emerge from the tannic blanket that has been thrown over it, and to be honest I'm not sure if it will be completely successful. The jury is out.

Borgo Casa al Vento

Borgo Casa al Vento Aria Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice, and by some strawberry acidity, with slight greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly long berry fruit finish with dusky tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and quite fresh, it will drink very well with foods, and also will age nicely for many years..
2 stars

Castellinuzza e Piuca

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit supported by deft greenish vegetal accents and some savory spice, also some sea salt and hints of Marseilles soap, which sounds odd but works well. On the palate it's medium bodied with considerable mentholated plum cherry fruit supported by moderately intense greenish acidity and by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. Pleasant in a light ripe fruit driven key, and will work well with foods. To drink now.
2 stars

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some greenish graphite shavings and slight vegetal notes. Quite fresh, and very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish vegetal notes and by clean spice, while the tannins are smooth and flow into a fairly long sweet berry fruit finish with tanninc underpinning that has slight peppery accents. Graceful in a ripe fruit driven key, and while it won't work if you prefer more aggressive wines, it does have a pleasant lushness to it. If you like the style it will go quite fast.
2 stars

Castello D'Albola

Castello D'Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by some acidity and by pleasant mentholated accents. Zesty and inviting. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and much more welcoming and interesting than the last vintage of this wine I tasted, a few years ago -- it's not enormously complex, but is enjoyable and easy to drink, the sort of wine people will demand more of.
2 stars

Riecine

Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mineral accents and some berry fruit supported by brooding shadow and pleasing dried flowers, also by some spice and underlying prune fruit. Elegant but still very young. On the palate it's rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by smooth deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are pleasingly zesty and peppery, flowing into a long warm berry fruit finish. It's quite pleasant, on the palate especially, and I would give the nose a year to catch up. Impressive.
2 stars

Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some greenish vegetal accents and some spice mingled with scalded milk, which is I think in this case an unready manifestation of fr-wood interaction. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with cherry fruit supported by pleasant mineral acidity and tannins that have a peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright finish. It displays considerable promise and will be worth seeking out.

Bindi Sergardi

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly rich spice and pleasing jammy accents that are supported by deft berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a bright zesty key, and will work well with fattier foods.
2 stars

Montesecondo

Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2010


Barrel sample
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour brambly berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal notes and pleasant mentholated spice. Nice definition and quite pleasant for a barrel sample. On the palate it's rich and quite smooth, though still clearly somewhat out of sorts, with fairly intense sour berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and tannins that are very smooth on the outset though they become blockier in the finish, while there are also hints of hazelnut with some greenish accents too. It's a bit of a work in progress, and still somewhat up in the air. 

Concadoro

Concadoro Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and blocky, with moderate berry fruit supported by cedar and some balsamic notes, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit, overall. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that has some brown sugar/cola sweetness, and is supported by tannins that have a decidedly peppery burr and flow into a rather tannic finish. It's have liked more depth and richness, and also a bit more tightness.
1 star

Rignana

Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some leather and dusky greenish brambly accents that are supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and hints of strawberry acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are bright and slightly greenish, flow into a long clean slightly greenish finish. Pleasant and very much alive.
2 stars

I Fabbri

I Fabbri Terre di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and a fair amount of spice, also considerable alcohol. Zesty and rather charged. On the palate it's bright with greenish cherry fruit supported by clean spicy tannins and dusky rather vegetal acidity, and flows into a fairly bitter tannic finish with berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant, and is a wine that made me think -- something I like in a wine..
2 stars

Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano

Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010


Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some strawberry and slight greenish accents, also some bramble. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft strawberry acidity. Quite pleasant in a fairly graceful key, and promises nicely.

Fattoria di San Giusto a Rentennano Le Baròncole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is a work in progress, with some fruit supported by greenish vegetal notes and some spice; it's clearly very much up in the air. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and splintery, and by acidity that is fairly bright, It's still out to sea, though it does display considerable promise, and will come together nicely in time. I would expect it to be fairly long lived.

Villa del Cigliano

Villa del Cigliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010


Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with mentholated accents and red berry fruit supported by some spice; nice depth to it. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite promising, and will be something to keep an eye out for.

Villa Trasqua

Villa Trasqua Evoluto Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some iodine and bitter graphite shavings supported by some spice and alcohol; it's pleasant but still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky greenish underpinning and flow into a fairly long greenish finish. It needs another year to come together, but is pleasant and will work quite well with foods.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini
 
Tenimenti Angelini - San Leonino Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Deep black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by some cedary accents and slight spice. On the palate it's fresh, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink nicely with succulent red meat or light stews.
2 stars

Terra di Seta  

Terra di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents supported by some leaf tobacco and leather, and also some fairly intense balsamic notes, with underlying spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sweet peppery spice and by tannins that are smooth and soft, and flow into a ripe berry fruit finish. It's quite ripe and still coming together; if you like softer fruit forward wines you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star


Isole e Olena

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2010


Barrel sample
Cherry ruby with pale ruby rim. Fresh bouquet with cherry fruit supported by slight greenish accents, delicate spice, and deft floral notes. On the palate it's equally fresh, with bright berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish tannins that have a peppery burr, and flow into a long vinous finish. Quite promising, and will be a wine to seek out.

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Cherry ruby with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with pleasant vegetal accents and cherry fruit supported by spice, in particular cumin, and savory notes; were the cumin stronger it would be animal, but it instead complements the rest of the b. On the palate it's bright, with deft cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly bitter cherry finish. Quite nice, and will be inspiring with a steak.
2 stars

Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2008

Lively rather almandine ruby with brilliant reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright wild cherries supported by spice and pleasant vegetal accents supported by some greenish artichoke notes, leaf tobacco, and some alcohol. Very young, but interesting. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are silky and flow into a long, rich cherry laced finish. Beautiful, and though one could drink it now, it will also age beautifully for many years.
90-92


Antinori

Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2010


Barrel sample
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with candied jammy berry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol, some gunflint bitterness and pleasant spice. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant ripe cherry plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins. Quite approachable in a ripe fruit driven key; it will drink very well and will be worth seeking out if you like the style.

Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright berry fruit supported by dusky slightly greenish acidity and clean spice, with some underbrush and some cedar mingled with hints of chalk dust. Quite young but there's quite a bit going on; it's much more complex than Peppoli and more traditional in feel. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft vegetal-laced berry fruit acidity and pleasing savory accents, while the tannins are fairly smooth, though they do have a youthful Sangiovese burr and flow into a long fresh finish that combines berry fruit with savory accents and a tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a more traditional key and will drink quite well with red meats, especially off the grill.
2 stars

Marchesi Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with delicate floral accents and red blossoms supported by deft cherry and forest berry fruit, some underbrush, and pleasant spice. Graceful and though very young has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample and quite fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft ripe cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do display a slight youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh finish. It's quick to write but vibrantly graceful, and has a great deal of potential for the future. One could drink it now but there's no rush (on its part).
88-90

CandialleCandialle Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and some vegetal accents, with underbrush and some slightly medicinal spice as well. On the palate it's full and bright, with ripe smooth sweet cherry fruit supported by rather languid acidity and by tannins that have a young peppery burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish with sweet fruit underpinning. Quite fresh, and pleasant in a fruit driven key; it revolves more around ripeness of fruit than acidity and is a wine that will also age nicely for 3-5 years, while the tannic structure will make it work well with foods. By comparison with many there is more extraction of fruit, and this is in part the pruning style, Alberello or bush, and in part a long maceration on the skins -- 50 days.
2 stars

Candialle Ciclope IGT Toscana 2009 Candialle

This is 50% Merlot, 40% Sangiovese, and the remainder Cabernet, Syrah, and Petit Verdot; it's named after their dog, who had a run-in with a porcupine while they were harvesting the first vintage -- then it was just Sangiovese; the other varietals were added subsequently -- in 2002, and lost an eye. The fermentation is in upright wooden casks, followed by aging in barriques, and the wine is lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and elegant, with red berry fruit supported by delicate sandalwood spice, floral accents, and slight vegetal notes. Quite harmonious, and very fresh. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish. It's a little softer than the Chianti Classico, and this is because of the Merlot; the Sangiovese does confer abundant acidity, and also the slight burr the tannins display, while the Petit Verdot contributes vegetal accents.
2 stars

Le Fonti

Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2009

Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and quite ripe, with strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by pleasant vegetal accents and some spice, with underlying peppery notes; as it opens some yellow peaches also emerge. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish with some sweetness from alcohol. It will work very well with foods.
2 stars

Le Fonti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, with hints of sandalwood as well. Nice balance and quite rich. On the palate it's full, bright, and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by nice berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a youthful peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright rather tannic finish. It will work very well with grilled meats, steaks especially, and go quickly.
2 stars

Le Fonti Fontissimo Alta Valle della Greve IGT 2007

This is a Taglio Bordolese, 50% Cabernet, and 25-25 Merlot and Sangiovese. Lively cherry ruby with slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm vegetal accents mingled with spice and alcohol, and supported by rather dusky underbrush. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by abundant tart acidity and tannins that are warm and smooth, and flow into a warm savory finish whose warmth is again in part due to alcohol. It's pleasant but has that skittish alcoholic feel common to Tuscan 2007 wines.
2 stars

Monte Bernardi Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Retromarcia DOCG 2009

Retormarcia means reverse gear. This said, the wine, which is from a flat area at an elevation of 400 m in Panzano's Conca D'Oro, is 95% Sangiovese, 3% Merlot and 2% Canaiolo; it is fermented in steel and cement tanks and spends some time in year-old barriques. It's lively cherry ruby with cherry rim, and has a bright bouquet with pleasing greenish accents and fairly rich berry fruit supported by some underbrush and some spice with savory vegetal accents. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are peppery (black pepper), and flow into a clean fresh peppery finish. Quite pleasant and will work very well with foods.
2 stars

Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

This is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo, from a vineyard that's lower than the Retromarcia vineyard, and also more steeply sloping. Fermentation is in steel and large casks. Pale almandine ruby with almandine reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and greenish, with slight balsamic accents and warmth mingled with deft spice, and held together by sour berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and sweet tannins that flow into a pleasant cherry finish. Quite nice, and will be an excellent food wine.
2 stars

Monte Bernardi Sa' Etta Chianti Classico Riserva Old Vines DOCG 2008

This is from a steeply sloping vineyard planted over sandstone, across the street from the Monte Bernardi vineyard, which is instead slaty. 200% Sangiovese fermented in large wood. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and be spice; the effect is rather haunting and the wine is still quite young. On the palate it's full, and fresh, with brilliant sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tightly woven tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Very pleasant, displaying graceful finesse, and was a nice discovery.
90-91

Monte Bernardi Tzingana Colli Toscana Centrale IGT 3008
45% Merlot, 20 Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 Cabernet Franc, and 15 Petit Verdot; the vines were top grafted onto older vines in the 1990s. Lively ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with vegetal notes and black peppery spice, and fairly intense underbrush. On the palate it's smootha nd quite ample, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sweet berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a long warm tannic finish. Graceful and quite approachable in a more international an (to me) less interesting key than the Chianti. It's more up front, with less to discover.
2 stars

La Camporena

La Camporena Chianti Classico DOCG 2009


Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich and decidedly vegetal, with clean spice and greenish berry fruit, some artichoke stems, floral notes, and quite a bit of mentholated acidity. Fresh and brash. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather bitter finish. Pleasant in a more aggressive, rather vegetal key, and if you like the style you will like it. if you prefer softer fruit it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

La Camporena Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008

Lively almandine with brilliant almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some underbrush with cedar as well. On the palate it's smooth, with fresh bright berry fruit supported by savory accents and tannins that are smooth, but do display some cedary notes and flow into a lastingly bitter finish. The nose is a bit behind the palate, and it needs until 2013 at least to come together, but promises nicely.
2 stars

Querciavalle

Querciavalle's Sangiovese was one of those studied by the Consorzio when they were developing the new Sangiovese clones in the late 1990s.

Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2010

Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright cherry fruit supported by some spice, heather, some balsamic accents, and some menthol. Pleasant but very young. On the palate it's medium bodied with pleasant cherry plum fruit supported by sweet plum acidity and tannins that have a greenish youthful burr, and flow into a clean savory finish that has slight sweetness from alcohol. It's pleasant in a ripe but not overripe fruit forward key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.

Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009

Barrel sample, from large oak.
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Deep cherry ruby with almandine reflections. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and considerable warmth, with leather and spice, and bright acidity to provide direction. On the palate it's bright, with fresh lively cherry fruit supported by considerable warmth and some berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are still coming together, and it flows into a clean black peppery finish. Quite promising though it is very much a barrel sample, and needs 2-3 years at least. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.

Querciavalle Millennium Chianti Classico Riserva 2007

This is Sangiovese with Canaiolo and Malvasia nera. Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brooding berry fruit supported by alcohol and greenish brambly vegetal accents. Rather angry, and this is youth too. On the palate it's full and fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft acidity -- forest berry fruit with some strawberry accents -- and smooth bright tannins that with a warm burr that flow into a long rather peppery sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. Quite pleasant, and a very fine expression of the vintage, lively and bright with considerable brashness, but also grace. Worth seeking out.
90

Monday, March 19, 2012

Carmignano: The 2010, 2009 and 2008 Vintages - and More!

The Carmignano Appellation has just presented the new releases of Carmignano, a red wine that is similar to Chianti in that it is primarily Sangiovese, the classic Tuscan red varietal, and different because the Appellation requires 10-20% Cabernet, a nod to Cosimo III de'Medici, who planted and experimented uva Franciosa, as it was called, in his Carmignano vineyards in the early 1700s.

Though the Cabernet has had time to become acclimatized and adapt to its Tuscan surroundings, 10-20% is quite enough to have a powerful influence upon the wine, and with respect to other Central Tuscan wines that lack it Carmignano tends to be more vegetal, with notes of hay or green vegetables, in particular bell pepper, on the nose, and earthy Cabernet-derived accents to the fruit, while the tannic structure also reveals Cabernet facets.

In short, Carmignano stands out from the other Central Tuscan appellations, especially now that those in Chianti are turning away from the international varietals that were all the rage 10-15 years ago, and as such it offers a pleasant change of pace. For a considerably more detailed discussion of the appellation, see my introduction to the 2009 presentation.

This year's presentation was once again held at Capezzana, which is by far the most important estate in the Carmignano appellation.

The vintages presented ranged from 2011 for some of the whites and the Vin Ruspo, Carmignano's Rosato, to 2010 for the Barco Reale, Carmignano's ligher red, 2010 for most the Carmignano vintage wine, and on to 2009-2008 for the Riserva wines, while some of the IGT wines and Vinsanti were from older vintages.

Taken as a group the 2010 vintage Carmignano displays considerable cabernet, which overshadows Sangiovese, presenting as vegetal accents and with a certain warmth. The 2009 and 2008 wines tend to be brighter, with the fruit shifted more towards red berry fruit and less towards plum, and are also markedly less vegetal.


The wines, Tasted February 18 2012

Podere Allocco

Podere Allocco Trebbiano IGT Toscana 2010

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich floral accents mingled with straw, some brambly acidity vegetal underpinning. Zesty. On the palate it's fairly rich, in an ample key with strong slightly overripe white berry fruit supported by greenish bitter accents that carry into a fairly long finish with greenish accents and some butterscotch as well It's a little more charged than I might have liked on the palate, and heavy rather than agile, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. A wine that will work well with more substantial offerings that will profit from its power. Not much minerality; the fullness is more glycerin and alcohol.
1 star

Podere Allocco Bacano IGT Toscana 2010

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent minerality and some butterscotch supported by dusky shadowy notes and some overripe pear, and brambly acidity as well. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant slightly bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish. Deft, in a decidedly mineral key, with more minerality than fruit acidity, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cocoa, slight sandalwood, and berry fruit mingled with some greenish vegetal accents, the combination somehow brings a hostess cupcake to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather smoky greenish vegetal notes supported by spice and menthol more than fruit, and it flows into a rather blocky peppery finish with spicy underpinning. It's a touch more vegetal than I might have liked.
1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with smoky red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a cedary underpinning and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with greenish tannic underpinning and fairly intense vegetal accents. Quite approachable in a young key, and will drink well with red meats.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though some greenish accents emerge, mingled with acidity and hints of balsam. Promising but not really developed yet. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents, sour minerality and tannins that are smooth and quite powerful, flowing into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning, Quite promising, and if the nose follows the palate's lead will be something to look out for.

Tenuta Capezzana

Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2008

Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections. the bouquet is deft, and elegant, with mineral laced butterscotch supported by deft spice and some pleasing greenish vegetal accents. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with butterscotch laced minerality supported by mineral acidity and slight tannins that have a slightly brambly feel to them and flow into a clean dry butterscotch laced finish with some caramel overtones. Quite pleasant in a rich international key, and is one of the finer expressions of this wine that I have tasted; by comparison with other vintages more fruit and more minerality from grapes emerges, making it more interesting.
88-90

Tenuta Capezzana Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Slightly duskier pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky red berry fruit supported by some bramble and savory notes, and moderate red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense raspberry cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a warm rather sour mineral laced finish with bitter underpinning. A fairly direct wine in a simple up front key.
1 star

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale DOCG 2009

Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with a great gout of greenish violets mingled with spice and leather; with a rush of sea breeze as well. Unusual. On the palate it's bright, with richer than expected cherry black currant fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some vegetal accents, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and lead into a clean bitter finish. Fresh, and still a bit in the air; it will work well with simple grilled meats, for example thick burgers, and in the proper context will be perfect. But it does need until summer for the nose to come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2010

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violet laced plume cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents that bring gum Arabic to mind, and some spice as well. Quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's ample in a ripe key, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by moderate savory acidity and quite a bit of sea salt, and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay with some sweetness from wood as well, and flow into a clean savory vanilla laced finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and if you like the style is quite approachable and a wine you will enjoy considerably.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents, chalk dust, and some peppery spice, also some berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents, peppery spice and tannins that have a warm peppery and belle pepper burr, flow into a sandalwood laced finish that's quite dry. It needs another year to come together, and will be quite different when it has.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with sandalwood and some balsam, and with some vegetal accents as it opens. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that have warm slightly balsamic savory accents, and flow into a clean savory berry fruit finish. It needs another year to fold in, but is pleasant in a ripe key; while the fruit has shifted into prunes and plums there is still red fruit acidity, and this confers a degree of verve.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is savory; with some greenish accents that -- at first swish -- brought a bean pot to mind, and then opened to reveal vegetal notes more than fruit. It gives an impression of being in mod stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm balsamic burr and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. Needs another couple of years to come together and smooth, at which point it should be fairly traditional (and quite improved), though that's for the future, and not today.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2006

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Impenetrable black cherry with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some minerality mingled with cherry fruit and some forest berry fruit, and also slight vegetal accents. Graceful in a lacy sort of way. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and though well polished not retiring, and flow into a clean fairly bright tannic finish with hints of balsam and more evident savory berry fruit accents. Quite pleasant, though young, and will also age nicely for many years.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Sessanta IGT Toscana 2007

From a Magnum
This is a Merlot. Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with underbrush and red berry fruit supporting some sour berry fruit and pleasant greenish accents; there's something voluptuous to it. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smoky accents and tannins that are warm and rather balsamic, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with balsamic underpinning. Quite young but also quite pleasant with deft grace, and will drink very well with foods, and also age nicely for a decade or more.
88-90

Tenuta di Capezzana Capezzana 804 IGT Toscana 2004

From a Magnum
This is a Syrah. Deep pyrope ruby with some purple in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some underbrush and savory accents with underlying cherry plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich in a decidedly savory balsamic key with plum cherry fruit supported by warm savory tannins and sour balsamic acidity that flow into a fairly long savory tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs time to come together -- I had the impression of looking in on a nursery school with it. A bit too young to score, because it could go in any of several directions. All good, but I want to see where it goes first.

Tenuta Capezzana Vinsanto 2006

Tawny amber with brilliant orange reflections and slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is powerful and sweet, with dried fruit, dates and figs, supported by some caramel and brown sugar, and warm nose tingling acidity with some almonds and walnuts skins as well. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich date and fig fruit supported by bright date acidity and sweetness that is brown sugar with hints of maple, and the sugar is intense enough to leave a granular trail across the tongue, flowing into a fairly long finish that has some walnuts, and then fades into sweetness. Quite pleasant in a very sweet key, and if you like this sweeter style of vinsanto, which brings the wines of Montepulciano to mind, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Castelvecchio

Castelvecchio Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Pale pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is fresh and bright, with lively raspberry fruit and raspberry acidity supported by some red blossoms and slight jammy accents with hints of vegetal underpinning. Voluptuous, and the jam increases the curves. On the palate it's bright, with lively raspberry fruit that is supported by acidity and slight brambly tannins, and gains fullness from slight sweetness, which again accentuates the curves. Pleasant, and will be quite refreshing in the summer months, an ideal picnic wine.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some mentholated notes, also some dusky black pepper and slight sandalwood. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary graphite shaving bitterness, and by warm sandalwood laced acidity, which flow into a clean rather vegetal finish with underlying grilled pepper and pencil shaving bitterness. Pleasant, in a fairly bright key.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with powerful vegetal and bell pepper accents mingled with berry fruit and chalk dust, and some mentholated notes as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly bright, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish almost balsamic tannins and warm greenish acidity that flows into a warm balsam laced finish that's rather blocky. I'd have liked more depth and verve.
1 star

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with polished leather and some spice mingled with cumin seeds and savory accents. Not much fruit, though as it opens some savory barnyard tang with greenish balsamic accents emerges On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean savory finish. It's a bit behind, the nose especially, and needs a year to come together and develop. It will with time become ethereal, in a traditional key, but has a little less fruit than I might have liked.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Vinsanto 2007

Pale amber with brilliant apricot reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly sweet, with greenish vegetal accents and green apricot mingled with some almonds and hints of dates and figs that as they gain in intensity replace the vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with sweet dried fruit, dates in particular, and date sweetness, which gives way to walnut skins as it flows into the finish, which is walnutty. It's a bit more direct than I like, and the finish is rather abrupt, with the fruit dropping off to give way to the walnuts.
1 star

Artimino

Artimino Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Lively raspberry pink with brilliant electric pink reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with slight bell pepper and sour berry fruit with hints of bell pepper jam as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish sour berry fruit supported by bell pepper bitterness and by some savory notes, while there are also light slightly splintery tannins. Quite fresh, though a touch coarser than the Castelvecchio -- and this will make it better suited to accompanying fried white meats or fish, a summer favorite -- while it will be a nice picnic or cookout wine too.
2 stars

Artimino Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by dusky spice more than acidity, and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with slight graphite shavings. On the palate it's brighter than expected from the nose, though in a brooding key, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an abundance of bitter graphite shavings and flow into a slightly smoky sour bitter finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, in a decidedly vegetal key, and it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2010

Impenetrable purple ruby ink with purple ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with belle pepper and vegetal accents, and supported by some savory notes as well, and by some metallic smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with plum cherry fruit supported by dusky minerality and graphite shaving bitterness more than acidity, and flows into a rather dusky finish. Despite the ripeness of the fruit it's a brooding wine, and while I would have liked a little more verve out of personal preference it is quite harmonious, with everything precisely where it should be.
2 stars

Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and somewhat greenish, with savory accents more than berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with greenish sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that have a splintery greenish burr and flow into a fairly long savory finish. I found the palate more interesting than the nose, though it is a touch thinner than I might have liked.
1 star

Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with India ink bitterness mingled with spice and iodine,a nd some plum cherry fruit as well. Coming together. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by considerable vegetal laced graphite shavings bitterness and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. Promising, in a rather austere key, with more minerality and more vegetal accents than some, and will also age nicely.

Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite mineral with some nose tingling acidity and spice, also some greenish wet leather. Dusky, bringing dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's pleasant, in a fairly mineral key, with savory red berry fruit supported by warm rather balsamic acidity and by smooth balsam-laced tannins that flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though one could drink it now it will have more to say in a few years, and will be reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Artimino Vinsanto Occhio di Pernice 2006

Tawny amber with brilliant orange reflections and greenish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and sweet, with orange and slight quinine notes mingled with minerality and some almonds, bit none of the brown sugar or walnuts one often finds in a vinsanto. It's going in a slightly different direction, and interesting. The palate reflects the nose; it's fairly sweet, with hints of orange and quinine bitterness that provides definition, and also some acidity, though its' more the quinine that carries the show, and it flows into a fairly bright bitter finish. Unusual; this is the first time I've encountered quinine in a vinsanto, and I'm not sure what to think of it.
1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete

Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with mineral laced greenish bell pepper fruit supported by chalk and artichoke stem as well, and also some cedar. Shadowy. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately bright decidedly vegetal fruit supported by tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a rather bitter savory finish. Smoky, and will work well with succulent meats.
2 stars


Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale DOCG 2009

Moderately deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by sweetish accents and slight dusky graphite, with hints of underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich, ripe, fairly sweet forest berry fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity and by tannins that are ample and have a slightly splintery burr that gives texture to their underlying smoothness. It's fairly voluptuous, in a rich ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable savory greenish vegetal accents and some peppery spice, but less red fruit that I might have expected. The French varietals seem to be covering a lot. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by minerality and tannins that have a clean bright mineral burr to them, and flow into a vegetal laced finish with black currant fruit underpinning that fades to savory notes. Pleasant in a fairly ripe key, and needs another year to come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by savory accents, some black pepper, slight greenish notes, and hints of petroleum. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit laced with black currant fruit and supported by sour mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and slightly glancing, flowing into a savory mineral finish with underlying tannic burr. Pleasant in a young key, the tannins are still coming together. Will age well.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vegetal accents, some cedar, savory notes and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather languid, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory spice and tannins that have a warm slightly splintery burr, flow into a clean savory finish with cherry plum underpinning

Podere il Sassolo

Podere il Sassolo Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Pale cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with zesty greenish vegetal accents supported by acidity and moderate red berry fruit. It's still coming together. On the palate it's fairly light, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity with some fruit overtones and by tannins that are light and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. A pleasant lark of a wine that will work quite well with meat based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, including fattier cuts such as lamb chops, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. It doesn't try to be more than a Barco should be.
2 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is a bit up in the air, with airiness that brings paper to mind supported by chalk and some greenish accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with dusky rather bitter fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr; it revolves more around bitterness than fruit, and will most likely continue on this path with time.
1 star

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by some yellow peach, and by greenish accents as well, with some spice too. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and by tannins that are warm and rather balsamic, flowing into a warm slightly balsamic sour berry fruit finish pleasant in a more traditional key, and though it needs time will already work well with steaks or other hearty grilled meats.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina in Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up bramble and minerality with dried artichoke stem greenness and some spice too. Not much fruit On the palate it's bright, and quite vegetal, with artichoke more than bell pepper greenness, and smooth dusky greenish tannins with some balsamic accents, and it flow into a warm fairly greenish finish. It's still very young, and needs at least a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections anc cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, swishing brings up savory notes, slight balsam, and spice more than fruit. On the palate it's ample with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and quite forward, laying a spicy veneer over the tongue. Very young, and needs time. I would have however liked more fruit.


Fattoria Ambra Elzana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky savory notes and balsamic accents mingled with cocoa and some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly irpe with plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidty, and by tannins that are cedar laced and flow into a cedar laced finish with underlying bitterness. I's have liked more depth and verve; it's a little flatter than I might have wanted.

Pratesi

Pratesi Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly fresh, with dusky violets supported by sea salt and bell peppers with some artichoke greenness as well, and by underlying forest berry fruit. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry black currant fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary underpinning and are still quite dry, need time to fold in. Promising however, and will do interesting things with time, I think. It grew on me.
2 stars

Pratesi Locorosso Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite green, with artichoke stems more than peppers and some tobacco, with slight savory notes as well. On the palate it's brighter than expected, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some bell pepper accents, and by tannins that are warm and slightly cedar laced with hints vanilla and sandalwood, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with some vegetal accents. Pleasant though young, and will do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Pratesi Circo Rosso Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsam laced prune cherry fruit supported by savory notes and hardwood ash with some greenish vegetal acidity. On the palate it's pleasant at the outset, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity that surrenders to cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long, quite powerful cedar laced finish. At present the tannins are overly dry and bring the fruit to its knees; we will have to wait to see how they fold in with time.

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2006

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some plum cherry fruit supported by delicate vegetal accents mingled with some cut squash and hints of shellac. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by balsamic accents, and by tannins that are warm and balsamic, and at present gradually emerge, predominating. A little too much oak for me now, and I doubt the fruit will ever really throw it off.
1 star

Piaggia

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly sharp, with penetrating greenish accents and acidity supporting prune plum fruit, and some vegetal notes as well with a savory underpinning. On the palate it's riper than I expected, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish cedary overlay and by moderate minerality more than fruit driven acidity, which flows into a fairly long greenish finish that has hints of sweetness, which are likely alcohol. Approachable in a ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But do give it a couple of years to get its bearings.
2 stars

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2009

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim that has hints almandine. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and sea salt supported by some vegetal notes, more grass and Sichuan preserved vegetable than bell peppers. On the palate it's rich and languid in a quite ripe key, with rich plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that have a slight vegetal burr, and flow into a fairly long, fairly sweet prune finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and if you like rich ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it; the palate is ahead of the nose and I would give the nose another year to come together.
2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and fresh for a Riserva, with violets mingled with spice and sandalwood with some nose tingling vegetal acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with rich plum cherry fruit that's fairly sweet supported by tannins that have fairly intense barrel sample bitterness to them, and some mineral acidity that flows into a dusky plum fruit laced mineral finish. Opulent, and as the tannins smooth and fold in it will be even more opulent.

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory smoky sea salt and spice, and is also rather penetrating. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, ans sweeter than I expected, with vegetal notes that carry more than the plum prune fruit present, and mineral acidity, while the tannins are warm and splintery, flowing into a clean rather mineral finish with some underlying plum fruit. It needs time, a year or two, and is a little riper than I might have liked, Personal preference.
2 stars

Piaggia Poggio De'Colli IGT Toscana 2009

This is a Cabernet Franc. Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and underbrush mingled with deft red berry fruit and some acidity; nice depth and harmony, and as it opens there are hints of yellow peach as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by peppery spice and tannins that have a warm savory burr, and flow into a clean savory finish with hints of cocoa and underlying berry fruit. A different varietal? Perhaps; it revolves more around finesse than power, though there is that too, and it has nice aging potential as well.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite vegetal, with greenish berry fruit accents mingled with sandalwood and spice that almost brings incense to mind, On the palate it's ample and quite ripe with cherry and back currant-cassis fruit supported by tannins that have an inky graphite shaving overlay, and by minerality more than acidity, which flows into a clean rather mineral tannic finish. It's not quite lush enough to be a sexpot wine, but is pleasingly fruit driven and headed in that direction. If you prefer tighter wines with more acidity and more aggressive tannins it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2009

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is intense and rather vegetal, with red berry fruit supported by cut squash greenness mingled with chalk and a certain acidic sweetness. On the palate it's full, quite riep,a nd fairly sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness as much as acidity and by greenish accents that flow into a clean fairly soft plum finish The ripest, sweetest wine tasted so far, something of a starlet in a glass, and if you like the style, which revolves more around alcohol and sweet ripeness of fruit than tannins or acidity, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is frankly atypical for Carmignano.
1 star


Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite green, with cut squash greenness supported by some sour berry fruit and spice; there's something heady to it. On the palate it's full and quite riep, with greenish cherry plum fruit that whose vegetal accents echo the cut squash on the nose, and flow into a greenish berry fruit finish with savory underpinning that becomes quite splintery. It's rich and a bot overripe, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings; I'd have liked a little more aicifty because as the tannins smooth it will I think become rather brooding.
2 stars

Tenuta la Borriana

Tenuta la Borriana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cassis fruit and some sweetish jammy accents mingled with slight vegetal accents and spice. On the palate it's ample and ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample, with a slight burr, and flow into a slightly splintery fairly sweet fruit laced finish. It's up in the air, but if it comes down right will be pleasant in a ripe soft key.