The 2012 Chianti Classico Anteprima was once again held in Florence's Stazione Leopolda, and once again featured a day of sit-down tastings followed by a day of talking to the winemakers. Both of which were quite nice, and entirely too brief considering the number of wines being presented: 292 between Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva, and (at the tasting booths) a variety of IGT wines as well.
Faced with this many wines in this little time one picks and chooses, and that is what I did. As you might expect, I picked names I was familiar with or had heard good things about, and as a result the scores taken as a group are likely higher than they would have been had I simply tasted in sequence.
Before we get to the wines, a couple of things:
The most important news of the event was Antinori's decision to rejoin the Consorzio, one that I cannot help but view with favor. Antinori is one of the most important central Tuscan wineries, and their not being in the Chianti Classico Consorzio did strike an odd note.
Next, a couple of thoughts on the vintages:This year there were Chianti Classico wines from the 2010, 2009, 2008 and 2007 vintages, and Chianti Classico Riserva from the 2009, 2008, 2007, and 2006 vintages; as a general rule winemakers presenting the 2010 Chianti Classico presented the 2009 Riserva, while those presenting the 2009 Chianti Classico presented the 2008 or older Riserva.
I instead began with the Riserve and worked forward, and though I did get to the 2009 Chianti Classico I didn't taste many 2010 wines, because there were many barrel samples, which are interesting but not really finished wines yet.
The 2006 vintage is by now a known quantity: Powerful, rather brooding, and quite intense, wines that have great potential but need time to develop.
The 2007 Chianti Classico Riserva impressed me less: the vintage wines were brash, and skittish -- nervous even -- and while I liked that in the young fresh wines, it doesn't work as well in the Riserve, which seem more strident and less graceful, rather like a tomboy who continues to act like a tomboy when she has reached adulthood. There are of course some good 2007 Chianti Classico Riserve, but you should select with care because they're not sure bets.
The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva and Chianti Classico D'Annata impressed me quite favorably, with nice freshness and richness of fruit; it is I think a better vintage than 2007.
The 2009 Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico D'Annata? Neither made a tremendous impression on me one way or the other. I will have to taste more before I say something.
The wines, in the order in which I tasted the first wine listed:Castello di AmaCastello di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with slightly candied cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents and some dusky graphite shaving bitterness. It's a bit more brooding than some years, with a touch more alcohol and slight mentholated accents as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite deft, with fairly bright slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly long cedar laced finish with hints of hazelnut. Graceful, and beautifully controlled; it's a wine that will also age quite nicely for a decade at least. Nice balance too. With respect to other years it's a little less rich in terms of fruit, and a bit more linear, though this is also youth.
2 stars
Castello di Monsanto
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008 Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable mentholated berry fruit supported by alcohol and cedar shavings, and some underlying vegetal notes, and as it opens spicy barnyard tang.. On the palate it's deft, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and velvety, though they do display a deft slightly greenish burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with sour cherry underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will also age well for many years, rewarding those blessed with patience.
90-91
Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by some wood smoke and slight strawberry acidity with some greenish notes as well. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's deft, with bright slightly greenish cherry fruit supported by fairly bright vegetal acidity and by tannins that are dry and flow into a clean vegetal finish. It does reflect the nervous nature of the vintage, and will be pleasant with steaks, though I wouldn't drink it by the glass far from the table now. With time it may become ethereal, but there isn't that much fruit behind the tannins.
2 stars
Castello di Vicchiomaggio
Castello di Vicchiomaggio Vigna La Prima Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated berry fruit supported by greenish brambly accents and some spice, and also a fair amount of alcohol; it has a scrappy feel to it. On the palate it's bright, with slightly riper than expected cherry fruit that has slight candied sweetness, and is supported by greenish acidity and splintery tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish cedar laced finish with lasting warmth. Not for sipping, but will work very well with a steak or roast.
2 stars
Ruffino
Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with deft cedar laced cherry fruit supported by some mentholated accents and hardwood ash with warm spice as well, and hints of strawberry and peach. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with slightly less intense cherry fruit than I expected supported by smooth cedar laced tannins that have a slight graphite shavings burr and flow into a fairly long slightly bitter cedar laced finish. Elegant, in what is not a traditional style, but has a 1970s feel to it, especially in the wood, which is more pronounced and emerges rather strongly in the finish. A walk down memory lane, and if you liked that period you will enjoy it..
2 stars
Ruffino Santedame Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with a fair amount of alcohol supported by some red berry fruit with dusky balsamic accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, and medium bodied, with sour cherry fruit that's a little brighter than I expected supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish. It's brighter than one might expect from the nose, and I would give the nose a year to catch up; it has a pleasing liveliness to the fruit though there are also some balsamic accents. In terms of feel, it echoes the Riserva Ducale, and reminds me of the wines from when I was growing up.
2 stars
Ormanni
Ormanni Borro del Diavolo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky cherry fruit supported by smooth slightly greenish acidity and by some mentholated accents; it's nicely controlled and quite rich. On the palate it's rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish acidity and by tannins that have a clean slightly peppery burr, and flow into a long sour cherry finish. A beautiful wine with great elegance, and also essential, everything just where it should be, and it will age beautifully for many years. Impressive.
90-91
Ormanni Chianti Classico DOCG 2009 Ormanni Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to orange pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by pleasant floral accents and fairly intense spice, with a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a greenish berry fruit finish. Zesty, and a wine that will drink easily with foods, in a rather brash up front key. In your face, even, and you have to like this style. If you do you will drink it by the bucket.
2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Pale cherry ruby with cherry rim The bouquet is delicate, with wild strawberries supported by some menthol and slight bitterness, also slight spice, towards cumin. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by slight greenish accents that flow into a clean rather splintery finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and will work well with grilled meats or stews. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and pleasantly greenish, with cut green (unripe) peaches mingled with some leaf tobacco and pleasant spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are peppery, dry, and glancing, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Zesty and up front, it's a wine that will drink well with zesty foods, for example grilled sausages or succulent stews.
2 stars
Vignamaggio
Vignamaggio Monna Lisa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit that has slight mentholated jammy accents supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some underlying cedar. Rather dusky. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a clean splintery finish that's a little drier than I might have liked. It's a wine that will work nicely with succulent meats, but that I wouldn't drink by the glass, at least not within 5 years.
2 stars
Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly greenish with vegetal notes and spice supporting some berry fruit, though what really comes through is the greenness, and as it opens graphite shavings.. On the palate it's rather dusky, with greenish berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a bitter finish. I'd have liked more verve and life; it's a little flat.
1 star
Borgo Scopeto
Borgo Scopeto Misciano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is brooding, with moderate berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and cedar-laced spice with some sea salt and some hardwood ash. On the palate it's a bit brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit that's overcome by tannins that have a slightly bitter cedary burr and continue at length, into a dry tannic finish with some berry fruit acidity. A little too much wood, for my tastes, which has dried out the wine.
1 star
Castello di Bossi
Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep almandine ruby with hints of brown towards the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and deft slightly smoky acidity that rises up to tingle the nose, and shift with time towards strawberry, and some dried flowers as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory spice and by tannins that have a distinctly cedary burr and flow into a fairly long dry cedar laced finish with a dusky brooding note to it, and echoes of the floral accents on the nose. It's pleasant in a heavily oaked style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; because of the tannic dryness it will would be a good bet with succulent meats, even if you're not a tremendous fan of the style.
2 stars
Monteraponi
Monteraponi Baron Ugo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Lively ruby with almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish vegetal laced berry fruit supported by hints of tar and brambly acidity, and by some greenish accents too, also some leaf tobacco and slight leather, and as it opens nice sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, flowing into a long slightly greenish berry fruit finish. Very pleasant in a traditional key, and will also age beautifully. If you have more than a couple of bottles, set most of them aside for at least 3-5 years.
88-90
Monteraponi Il Campitello Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009Barrel sample
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with warmth and some sweetish balsamic accents with pleasant spice as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and bright deft berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean slightly herbal berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a deft key, and will very nice in a traditional key in 2-5 years. Needs time.
Torraccia di Presura
Torraccia di Presura Il Tarocco Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with sea salt and some spice, and supported by some dusky underbrush and slight barnyard tang. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly dry, and flow into a long rather sour cherry finish. It's heavily oaked, and you have to like the style, but if you do you will enjoy it, though you should drink it with foods -- it's not a wine to drink by the glass.
2 stars
Castello della Paneretta
Castello della Paneretta Torre a Destra Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some chalk and pleasant dried flowers with some savory accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with moderately rich -- it does display the slight leanness typical of 2007 -- cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity with some red berry fruit accents, and by clean bright slightly greenish tannins with a peppery burr, and it flows into a clean long sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and they have changed considerably since I last tasted them, shifting towards a more traditional style. If you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars
Castello della Paneretta Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit laced with raspberry acidity and some jammy accents, while there is also something brooding to it that brings purple to mind. On the palate it's bright and fresh with lively slightly greenish plum laced berry fruit supported by smooth spicy tannins that flow into a clean greenish fruit laced finish. Zesty, and a wine to drink now with pasta dishes or simple grilled meats; you will likely want a second bottle.
2 stars
Villa di Geggiano
Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2007Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some strawberry, and also some dried flowers, with pleasant savory accents as well. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate greenish acidity and tannins that are dusky and rather bitter, with a cedar underpinning and quite a bit of alcohol. It's a child of the vintage, and more nervous and less rich than I had hoped it to be.
2 stars
Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still muted, though swishing brings up some spice and as it opens berry fruit with some mentholated accents, and some greenish accents as well. Deft. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant bright cherry fruit supported by deft slightly splintery tannins and clean minerality, which flow into a fairly long, fairly bright berry fruit finish with splintery underpinning. It's quite young, but promises nicely and will drink well with foods. A wine one could easily drink by the bucket.
2 stars
Villa di Geggiano Bandinello Toscana IGT 2010
This is 60% Sangiovese, 20% Syrah and 20% Ciliegiolo, and spends 3 months in large wood to clear its head, say Andrea and Alessandro. It's lively almandine with bright almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh with cheery berry fruit supported by peppery spice, underbrush, and some sweet berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and light sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish. Quite pleasant in a fresh lively key, a classic cookout or picnic wine for the summer months -- easy to drink, non-aggressive, and lots of fruit. Expect it to go very fast.
2 stars
Castello di Cacchiano
Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and also fairly mature, with berry fruit supported by some leaf tobacco and leather, and by slight bramble as well, with underlying grassy notes more than vegetal, and some dried flowers and cypress -- mobile di sacristia, the aroma of a sacristy out in the country. On the palate it's medium bodied, though a touch thin in terms of the fruit; it's dusky cherry with some candied notes, and is supported by mentholated berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth and glancing, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish that becomes rather dry. The tannins are a touch more powerful than the fruit needs, and end up carrying in the finish; I found the nose to be more interesting and more graceful than the palate.
2 stars
Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsam laced red berry fruit supported by some sour currant acidity and hints of cassis mingled with some leafy underbrush and slight pungency. On the palate it's graceful, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by slight black currant fruit that confers roundness, and by deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but do display a dusky cedar laced burr, and flow into a clean slightly sour cherry finish. Graceful, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews; it's fairly traditional in feel and if you like that style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars
Badia a Coltibuono
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with bright sour berry fruit supported by considerable sea salt and some balsamic accents with some brambles and savory spice as well. On the palate it's full, smooth, and quite bright with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a youthful tannic burr in the finish. Quite pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will work very well with red meats. One doesn't normally set out and drink a Riserva, but it could happen here.
2 stars
They ran out by the time I had worked up to 2010, and I had to taste this with Emanuela the next day:
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasant berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some graphite shaving, with underlying vinous notes. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and light smooth slightly savory tannins with a warm butt. Very pleasant and is one of those wines that can be drunk a secchiate, by the bucket. You will want more bottles.
Caparsa
Carparsa Caparsino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the nobody home variety, though with swishing some floral accents and berry fruit emerge. On the palate it's bright, with rich, lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slightly splintery, youth at work, and flow into a rather peppery finish. It's quite pleasant but woefully young, and needs another 3-5 years to be more presentable. A wine for the future, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will very much enjoy it, though in a while.
2 stars
Caparsa Doccio a Matteo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shit tight, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight spice, and also some strawberry fruit as well. Needs time. On the palate it's still coming together, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by spice and quite intense finely woven tannins that are at present rather dry, and flow into a dry tannic finish with lasting savory accents and hints of dried flowers. It's further behind than the Caparsino, but perhaps has more potential, and when the tannins have folded in, in 2-3 years' time, will be very nice.
2 stars
Castello di Querceto
Castello di Querceto Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's darker than some. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by some strawberry acidity and delicate mentholated cedar and some spice; it's middle of the road but not really tight. On the palate it's ample, at the outset, with moderately rich slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a warm fairly savory finish with a long tannic underpinning. It's a touch tired, with the fruit surrendering a little more space to the tannins than I might have liked.
1 star
Castello di Verrazzano
Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slight rusticity, a dash of barnyard tang that is supported by savory notes and some berry fruit with slight graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and flow into a clean savory tannic finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with foods, though it's not ready now to be drink far from the table.
2 stars
Castello di Verrazzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly green with powerful vegetal accents, approaching artichoke stems, supported by deft greenish acidity and some bitter almond accents as well, with, as it opens, slight barnyard tang. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate fruit supported by dry tannins; I'd have liked richer brighter fruit than I found.
1 star
Castello di Volpaia
Castello di Volpaia Coltassala Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some cumin seed mingled with some sea salt; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately rich sour cherry fruit supported by delicate strawberry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly soft; the fruit is a little leaner than I might have liked, though it does have a pleasing sour cherry base to it. The palate is a little further along than the nose, and I would give the nose time to develop. This said, I'd have liked a little more richness of fruit, considering that this is a Riserva.
1 star
Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with mineral accents mingled with lemon, mint and savory spice; the combination brings a mohito to mind. Unusual, and to be honest, were one to give it to me in a black opaque glass and ask what it is by smell alone I'm not sure what I would say. On the palate it's clearly wine, with fairly bright greenish cherry fruit supported by spicy berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are clean and have a fresh slightly greenish burr, while the finish has red berry fruit and aromas that echo the nose. It's unusual, and will work well with simple grilled meats through hearty stews, but you have to be prepared for something that isn't quite in the norm.
1 star
Fattoria La Ripa
Fattoria La Ripa Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice, and by some leaf tobacco as well, also some dried flowers. Pleasant in a fairly traditional but ripe key. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity that also has some wild strawberry accents, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean sour berry fruit finish with some sweetness that is also alcohol. Quite pleasant though still very young, and while one could drink it now with succulent meats, it will reward those who have the patience to give it time. Something to think about if you're more traditionally minded.
2 stars
Fattoria la Ripa Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly cooked berry fruit supported by unusual mentholated accents and as it opens pleasant berry fruit. On the palate it's pleasant, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity with strawberry accents and clean spicy tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish. Pleasant in a light zesty key, and though fairly direct will go very well with foods, a wine that one could drink quite a bit of.
2 stars
Fontodi
Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with a great dela of cedar and some greenish accents with underlying berry fruit that is sufficient to (barely) emerge, with moderate acidity as well. Very international in style. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that are ample and cedar laced, flowing into a warm savory cedar laced finish with fairly tart underpinning. A fellow taster might have liked more acidity, but I found it to be well balanced, with acidity and fruit working well together; what it needs is time because the nose is at least a year behind the palate. If you are not really traditionally minded you will enjoy it, however.
2 stars
Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with bright reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with strawberry and berry fruit supported by pleasant strawberry acidity and some cedar with a smattering of cumin seed and some mentholated accents. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite deft, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry strawberry acidity and tannins that have a youthful peppery burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's graceful in a fairly international key and will drink very well with foods, and will also age well for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
88-90
Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 2008
Lively almandine with almandine reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is pleasant though young, with berry fruit supported by some vegetal notes, leather, and spice; it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and powerful, with cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that have a warm peppery burr.. Impressive, but a work in progress, and though one could drink it now it will be much more interesting in 3-5 years, and will age for a decade or more. In short, give it time. The score reflects today.
2 stars
Fattoria Nittardi
Fattoria Nittardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and some cedar underpinning it, together with some lathered horse. On the palate it's ample and fairly bitter, with moderately intense ripe cherry plum fruit supported more by warmth than by acidity, and by tannins that are warm and peppery with an oaky overlay that flows into a warm peppery finish. There's a lot of oak and the wine is still working on digesting it; it's quite international in key, and something to consider only if you like this heavily oaked style.
1 star
Lamole di Lamole
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry fruit with nice floral accents, violets in particular, supported by graphite shavings and some vegetal notes, while there is also jammy slightly vegetal sweetness. On the palate it's quite ripe, with intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly clean fresh berry fruit finish with slight peppery accents. It's approachable in a ripe fruit driven key and quite drinkable, though the tannins will profit from another year. If you prefer tighter more acidic wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably
2 stars
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Pale black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by yellow peach and some greenish dusky accents and some bramble, with slight bitterness as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean greenish accents and deft greenish berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly sweet. Considerable finesse, and quite pleasant to drink in a rather brash style; it will work very well with foods, and you will likely want a second bottle.
2 stars
Barone Ricasoli
Barone Ricasoli Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is quite young, and also quite fresh, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and spice, also some sea salt. Quite promising in a model of the road key though it needs another year. On the palate it's further along, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by moderate rather brambly acidity and by tannins that are silky, with some brambly pencil shaving accents, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It is already drinkable, but will give more of itself in a year or two, and will age nicely for 3-5 .
2 stars
Barone Ricasoli Rocca Guicciardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
The bouquet is fairly rich, with some berry fruit supported by savory accents and underbrush, and also by some wet earth, also slight vegetal notes and hardwood ash. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, with some brambly accents and some wet leafy notes, and by tannins that are slightly toasted, and flow into a clean savory finish with some wood toast. Pleasant though I found the tannins, which have a touch of vegetal to them, a little less pleasant than those of the Brolio. A personal preference, and the wine will in any case work well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars
Barone Ricasoli Colledilà Chianti Classico DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is pleasant, with wild cherry fruit supported by dusky accents and clean spice, also some India ink bitterness and hints of quinine, some spice, slight cedar. On the palate it's quite elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by sour slightly brambly greenish accents, and by bright savory acidity, and tannins that are smooth and fairly silky with some brambly underpinning, and flow into a long rather bright sour cherry finish. Quite elegant, and deft, a young finely muscled athlete -- dancer, almost, and will also age nicely for a number of years. If you like the style you could drink it by the glass, but it will really give its best with red meats. Quite pleasant, and something to think about seeking out for now and for the relatively near -- 5-10 years -- future. Great finesse.
90-92
Barone Ricasoli Castello di Brolio Chianti Classico DOCG 2008
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is still quite young, with cherry fruit supported by deft cedar and some spice; it needs a couple of years to come together but is quite promising. At present a bit one track, and this is youth. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by tannins that are clean and cedar laced, with warm savory balsamic accents, and flows into a long rather balsamic finish that goes on and on. Beautiful, and a distinct step up from the other wines, it will work very well with red meats and would be hard to beat beside a porterhouse cut. Quite impressive, and though one could drink it now it will also age very well for 10 years at least, and if you have patience it will reward you.
92-4
PoggerinoPoggerino Bugialla Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008 Dusky almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intnes, with warm sour berry fruit laced with rather blocky acidity and hints of bown sugar and oatmeal, which is unusual in a red and likely wood fruit interaction, and as it opens further fairly marked savory accents. Quite a bit of wood. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warmth and by tannins that have a warm savory cedar laced burr, which fades into cedary bitterness in the finish. It's heavily oaked, and in the clear evidence of the oak feels like a wine from a few years ago, but has a certain grace and nice fruit, while the tannins from the grapes are elegant. If you like the style you, you will enjoy it.
2 stars
San Felice
San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by deft slightly dusky cedar and some savory spice, also slight peppery accents and a certain airiness from alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity that has some leatheriness to it, and by warm rather balsamic tannins that flow into a fairly long balsam laced finish. It has a tired feel to it, and I would have liked more depth and richness to the fruit.
1 star
San Felice Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by yellow peach and greenish accents with some cedar as well, and some spice. On the palate it displays pleasant fruit on the outset, but draws up quickly, with the tannins taking over and flowing into a very quick tannic finish. It's short, and dries out on the palate too.
1 star
Casa Sola
Casa Sola Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Barrel sample
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some berry fruit emerges, with some cedar as well and hints of hazelnut. On the palate it's warm and fairly rich on the outset, with moderately intense berry fruit that gets diverted by angry peppery spicy tannins that flow into a spicy fairly alcoholic finish. An angry baby, and it's too soon to say what it will do.
Castello di Monastero
Castello di Monastero Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite bitter, with graphite shavings and some iodine mingled with spice and alcohol, and underlying cedar with some underbrush; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly fresh cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and warmth from alcohol, and by tannins that have an angry peppery burr and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish with peppery tannic underpinning.
1 star
Félsina
Félsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar and cypress -- it bring to mind a sacristy out in the country -- and some cedar-laced acidity, while there is also a brooding duskiness to it. Very young but showing polish. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by considerable warmth and sour berry fruit acidity laced with cedar from the tannins, which are young and rather bitter, flowing into a cocoa laced warm tannic finish. It's quite young, but promises nicely in a fairly modern key, and will do interesting things with time. Give it 3-5 years to get its bearing and come together.
2 stars
La Porta di Vertine
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with mentholated berry fruit supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance and very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a spicy peppery burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish supported by some ripe berry fruit and warmth. It's a rather zesty wine, and if you like the style you will enjoy it
2 stars
Podere Castellinuzza
Podere Castellinuzza Paolo Coccia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with a lot of alcohol mingled with graphite shavings and greenish cedar, and also some leaf tobacco, with an underpinning of iodine. Not much fruit. On the palate it's powerful, with moderately intense berry fruit that is largely overshadowed by oak, while the acidity is rather mineral with brambly accents, and it flows into a rather brambly finish. If you like this sort of greenishness you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Villa Calcinaia
Villa Calcinaia Vigna Bastignano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with slight greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some splintery notes; it has a deft feel to it. On the palate it's bright, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by greenish wild strawberry acidity and by tannins that are dry and have a greenish cast and flow into a clean fairly bright finish. Pleasant, in a graceful key, and will drink very well with roasts and hearty stews.
2 stars
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate berry fruit supported by floral accents and some mentholated spice; nice depth and it gives an impression of verve. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sour berry fruit acidity with some raspberry accents, and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's pleasant in a simple direct key, and will drink well with foods, supporting rather than getting in the way. Expect a second bottle to be necessary.
2 stars
Tasted the Next Day:
Villa Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
From 2 vineyards, one planted on clays, the only clayey vineyard they have, and the other facing west. Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with brambly cherry fruit supported by deft slightly vegetal acidity and by pleasing bitter accents, with slight cedar as well. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by slightly dusky berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have a certain peppery tang of youth, and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a graceful key, and though it does need another year to get its bearings will age quite nicely, and be very nice with red meats.
2 stars
And More!
I have often enjoyed Villa Calcinaia's Chianti Classico, and when I saw that Sebastiano had some non-Chianti bottles, I did feel curious. Turns out he's experimenting with a number of older varietals that were growing in the vineyards, harvesting them separately and microvinifying them in barrels, than aging them in caratelli, wich are small barrels, because of the low volumes produced. For now these wines, which are in a line called Microlinee, are not for general sale, though one can buy them in Villa Calcinaia's shop on the way into Greve.
Villa Calcinaia Mammolo Le Microlinee IGT Toscana 2009
In addition to being a varietal name the word Mammolo means Violet, and the wines from Mammolo tend to be low in tannin content and high in acidity. Dusky almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with strawberry and spice supported by some acidity and slightly greenish notes, also some cedar. Intriguing, with slight peppery accents as it opens. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth rather slight tannins that flow into a warm finish that echoes the wild strawberry from the nose. Quite pleasant, a lark of a wine that will be perfect in the summer months.
2 stars
Villa Calcinaia Sanforte Le Microlinee IGT Toscana 2009
Sanforte is an indigenous varietal that ripens a little sooner than Sangiovese, developing higher sugar contents, and was called Sanforte by the farmers because it gave higher alcohol contents. Wild boar love it. Lively ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky greenish accents supported by underbrush and fairly intense spice. Quite different from Sangiovese. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with languid cherry fruit supported by equally languid cherry acidity and tannins that are quite smooth, with a softness that brings a baby's bottom to mind -- not to say something more voluptuous -- and flows into a fairly long cherry strawberry finish with some vegetal accents but not much in the way of tannins. Quite interesting and will work very well in wine bars and similar places, because it is very easy to drink.
2 stars
Villa Calcinaia Occhio Rosso Le Microlinee IGT Toscana 2009
Occhio Rosso, Red Eye, is a varietal from the town of Lamole, a few miles from Greve, which gets its name from the fact that the bunches develop red spots that look like eyes during the Vernissage, when they change color. The wine is almandine with white rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with spice and underbrush which mingle, as it opens, with some leaf tobacco and hints of raw beef that becomes ashy as it opens, and some greenish accents also emerge. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by some leathery greenish accents and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a spicy peppery burr. Pleasant in a more direct key, and with a little more tannic bite, which will make it more of a food wine. Of the three, it is perhaps the weakest, at least in this vintage. I'll be curious to try another vintage!
1 star
Castello di Fonterutoli
Castello di Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and powerful spice, nutmeg in particular, and also by some delicate floral accents. Quite a bit going on in a decidedly international key. On the palate it's full, with bright red cherry fruit supported by warmth and acidity, and by tannins that are smooth with a clean savory cedar overlay that gradually fades into bitterness in the finish. Quite pleasant in a very international key, with ripeness but not overripe, and if you are of more international tastes you will enjoy it very much; even a traditionalist will find things to ponder.
2 stars
Cecchi
Cecchi Riserva di Famiglia Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit that has slight candied -- almost gummy bear -- accents, and some pleasing vegetal accents with some underlying graphite shavings. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a dry rather bitter finish that becomes splintery as the tannins emerge. It's pleasant, if you like this style, and will work well with grilled meats. But you have to like the style.
2 stars
Castell'in Villa
Castell'in Villa Poggio delle Rose Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some bitterness and moderately intense balsamic accents as well. On the palate it's more interesting than the nose at the outset, with berry fruit that's initially fairly rich, but then clamps down considerably, with the tannins flowing over all and dictating their law. The fruit is pleasant, but it needs time to emerge from the tannic blanket that has been thrown over it, and to be honest I'm not sure if it will be completely successful. The jury is out.
Borgo Casa al Vento
Borgo Casa al Vento Aria Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice, and by some strawberry acidity, with slight greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly long berry fruit finish with dusky tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and quite fresh, it will drink very well with foods, and also will age nicely for many years..
2 stars
Castellinuzza e Piuca
Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry fruit supported by deft greenish vegetal accents and some savory spice, also some sea salt and hints of Marseilles soap, which sounds odd but works well. On the palate it's medium bodied with considerable mentholated plum cherry fruit supported by moderately intense greenish acidity and by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. Pleasant in a light ripe fruit driven key, and will work well with foods. To drink now.
2 stars
Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some greenish graphite shavings and slight vegetal notes. Quite fresh, and very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish vegetal notes and by clean spice, while the tannins are smooth and flow into a fairly long sweet berry fruit finish with tanninc underpinning that has slight peppery accents. Graceful in a ripe fruit driven key, and while it won't work if you prefer more aggressive wines, it does have a pleasant lushness to it. If you like the style it will go quite fast.
2 stars
Castello D'Albola
Castello D'Albola Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish sour berry fruit supported by some acidity and by pleasant mentholated accents. Zesty and inviting. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and much more welcoming and interesting than the last vintage of this wine I tasted, a few years ago -- it's not enormously complex, but is enjoyable and easy to drink, the sort of wine people will demand more of.
2 stars
Riecine
Riecine Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mineral accents and some berry fruit supported by brooding shadow and pleasing dried flowers, also by some spice and underlying prune fruit. Elegant but still very young. On the palate it's rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by smooth deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are pleasingly zesty and peppery, flowing into a long warm berry fruit finish. It's quite pleasant, on the palate especially, and I would give the nose a year to catch up. Impressive.
2 stars
Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva 2009
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some greenish vegetal accents and some spice mingled with scalded milk, which is I think in this case an unready manifestation of fr-wood interaction. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with cherry fruit supported by pleasant mineral acidity and tannins that have a peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright finish. It displays considerable promise and will be worth seeking out.
Bindi Sergardi
Bindi Sergardi Chianti Classico DOCG 2008Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly rich spice and pleasing jammy accents that are supported by deft berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a bright zesty key, and will work well with fattier foods.
2 stars
Montesecondo
Montesecondo Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour brambly berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal notes and pleasant mentholated spice. Nice definition and quite pleasant for a barrel sample. On the palate it's rich and quite smooth, though still clearly somewhat out of sorts, with fairly intense sour berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and tannins that are very smooth on the outset though they become blockier in the finish, while there are also hints of hazelnut with some greenish accents too. It's a bit of a work in progress, and still somewhat up in the air.
Concadoro
Concadoro Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and blocky, with moderate berry fruit supported by cedar and some balsamic notes, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit, overall. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that has some brown sugar/cola sweetness, and is supported by tannins that have a decidedly peppery burr and flow into a rather tannic finish. It's have liked more depth and richness, and also a bit more tightness.
1 star
Rignana
Rignana Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some leather and dusky greenish brambly accents that are supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and hints of strawberry acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are bright and slightly greenish, flow into a long clean slightly greenish finish. Pleasant and very much alive.
2 stars
I Fabbri
I Fabbri Terre di Lamole Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents and a fair amount of spice, also considerable alcohol. Zesty and rather charged. On the palate it's bright with greenish cherry fruit supported by clean spicy tannins and dusky rather vegetal acidity, and flows into a fairly bitter tannic finish with berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant, and is a wine that made me think -- something I like in a wine..
2 stars
Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano
Fattoria San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some strawberry and slight greenish accents, also some bramble. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft strawberry acidity. Quite pleasant in a fairly graceful key, and promises nicely.
Fattoria di San Giusto a Rentennano Le Baròncole Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling overtones orange. The bouquet is a work in progress, with some fruit supported by greenish vegetal notes and some spice; it's clearly very much up in the air. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and splintery, and by acidity that is fairly bright, It's still out to sea, though it does display considerable promise, and will come together nicely in time. I would expect it to be fairly long lived.
Villa del Cigliano
Villa del Cigliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with mentholated accents and red berry fruit supported by some spice; nice depth to it. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite promising, and will be something to keep an eye out for.
Villa Trasqua
Villa Trasqua Evoluto Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some iodine and bitter graphite shavings supported by some spice and alcohol; it's pleasant but still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky greenish underpinning and flow into a fairly long greenish finish. It needs another year to come together, but is pleasant and will work quite well with foods.
2 stars
Tenimenti Angelini
Tenimenti Angelini - San Leonino Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by some cedary accents and slight spice. On the palate it's fresh, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and will drink nicely with succulent red meat or light stews.
2 stars
Terra di Seta
Terra di Seta Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents supported by some leaf tobacco and leather, and also some fairly intense balsamic notes, with underlying spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sweet peppery spice and by tannins that are smooth and soft, and flow into a ripe berry fruit finish. It's quite ripe and still coming together; if you like softer fruit forward wines you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star
Isole e Olena
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sampleCherry ruby with pale ruby rim. Fresh bouquet with cherry fruit supported by slight greenish accents, delicate spice, and deft floral notes. On the palate it's equally fresh, with bright berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish tannins that have a peppery burr, and flow into a long vinous finish. Quite promising, and will be a wine to seek out.
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Cherry ruby with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with pleasant vegetal accents and cherry fruit supported by spice, in particular cumin, and savory notes; were the cumin stronger it would be animal, but it instead complements the rest of the b. On the palate it's bright, with deft cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly bitter cherry finish. Quite nice, and will be inspiring with a steak.
2 stars
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2008
Lively rather almandine ruby with brilliant reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright wild cherries supported by spice and pleasant vegetal accents supported by some greenish artichoke notes, leaf tobacco, and some alcohol. Very young, but interesting. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are silky and flow into a long, rich cherry laced finish. Beautiful, and though one could drink it now, it will also age beautifully for many years.
90-92
Antinori
Antinori Peppoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with candied jammy berry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol, some gunflint bitterness and pleasant spice. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant ripe cherry plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity and by ample smooth tannins. Quite approachable in a ripe fruit driven key; it will drink very well and will be worth seeking out if you like the style.
Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright berry fruit supported by dusky slightly greenish acidity and clean spice, with some underbrush and some cedar mingled with hints of chalk dust. Quite young but there's quite a bit going on; it's much more complex than Peppoli and more traditional in feel. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft vegetal-laced berry fruit acidity and pleasing savory accents, while the tannins are fairly smooth, though they do have a youthful Sangiovese burr and flow into a long fresh finish that combines berry fruit with savory accents and a tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a more traditional key and will drink quite well with red meats, especially off the grill.
2 stars
Marchesi Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with delicate floral accents and red blossoms supported by deft cherry and forest berry fruit, some underbrush, and pleasant spice. Graceful and though very young has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample and quite fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft ripe cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do display a slight youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh finish. It's quick to write but vibrantly graceful, and has a great deal of potential for the future. One could drink it now but there's no rush (on its part).
88-90
CandialleCandialle Chianti Classico DOCG 2009Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and some vegetal accents, with underbrush and some slightly medicinal spice as well. On the palate it's full and bright, with ripe smooth sweet cherry fruit supported by rather languid acidity and by tannins that have a young peppery burr and flow into a fairly long peppery finish with sweet fruit underpinning. Quite fresh, and pleasant in a fruit driven key; it revolves more around ripeness of fruit than acidity and is a wine that will also age nicely for 3-5 years, while the tannic structure will make it work well with foods. By comparison with many there is more extraction of fruit, and this is in part the pruning style, Alberello or bush, and in part a long maceration on the skins -- 50 days.
2 stars
Candialle Ciclope IGT Toscana 2009 Candialle
This is 50% Merlot, 40% Sangiovese, and the remainder Cabernet, Syrah, and Petit Verdot; it's named after their dog, who had a run-in with a porcupine while they were harvesting the first vintage -- then it was just Sangiovese; the other varietals were added subsequently -- in 2002, and lost an eye. The fermentation is in upright wooden casks, followed by aging in barriques, and the wine is lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and elegant, with red berry fruit supported by delicate sandalwood spice, floral accents, and slight vegetal notes. Quite harmonious, and very fresh. On the palate it's bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish. It's a little softer than the Chianti Classico, and this is because of the Merlot; the Sangiovese does confer abundant acidity, and also the slight burr the tannins display, while the Petit Verdot contributes vegetal accents.
2 stars
Le Fonti
Le Fonti Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and quite ripe, with strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by pleasant vegetal accents and some spice, with underlying peppery notes; as it opens some yellow peaches also emerge. Quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr, and flow into a clean fruit laced finish with some sweetness from alcohol. It will work very well with foods.
2 stars
Le Fonti Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, with hints of sandalwood as well. Nice balance and quite rich. On the palate it's full, bright, and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by nice berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a youthful peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright rather tannic finish. It will work very well with grilled meats, steaks especially, and go quickly.
2 stars
Le Fonti Fontissimo Alta Valle della Greve IGT 2007
This is a Taglio Bordolese, 50% Cabernet, and 25-25 Merlot and Sangiovese. Lively cherry ruby with slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm vegetal accents mingled with spice and alcohol, and supported by rather dusky underbrush. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by abundant tart acidity and tannins that are warm and smooth, and flow into a warm savory finish whose warmth is again in part due to alcohol. It's pleasant but has that skittish alcoholic feel common to Tuscan 2007 wines.
2 stars
Monte Bernardi
Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Retromarcia DOCG 2009Retormarcia means reverse gear. This said, the wine, which is from a flat area at an elevation of 400 m in Panzano's Conca D'Oro, is 95% Sangiovese, 3% Merlot and 2% Canaiolo; it is fermented in steel and cement tanks and spends some time in year-old barriques. It's lively cherry ruby with cherry rim, and has a bright bouquet with pleasing greenish accents and fairly rich berry fruit supported by some underbrush and some spice with savory vegetal accents. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are peppery (black pepper), and flow into a clean fresh peppery finish. Quite pleasant and will work very well with foods.
2 stars
Monte Bernardi Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
This is 95% Sangiovese and 5% Canaiolo, from a vineyard that's lower than the Retromarcia vineyard, and also more steeply sloping. Fermentation is in steel and large casks. Pale almandine ruby with almandine reflections. The bouquet is fresh, and greenish, with slight balsamic accents and warmth mingled with deft spice, and held together by sour berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and sweet tannins that flow into a pleasant cherry finish. Quite nice, and will be an excellent food wine.
2 stars
Monte Bernardi Sa' Etta Chianti Classico Riserva Old Vines DOCG 2008
This is from a steeply sloping vineyard planted over sandstone, across the street from the Monte Bernardi vineyard, which is instead slaty. 200% Sangiovese fermented in large wood. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and be spice; the effect is rather haunting and the wine is still quite young. On the palate it's full, and fresh, with brilliant sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tightly woven tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Very pleasant, displaying graceful finesse, and was a nice discovery.
90-91
Monte Bernardi Tzingana Colli Toscana Centrale IGT 3008
45% Merlot, 20 Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 Cabernet Franc, and 15 Petit Verdot; the vines were top grafted onto older vines in the 1990s. Lively ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit laced with vegetal notes and black peppery spice, and fairly intense underbrush. On the palate it's smootha nd quite ample, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sweet berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a long warm tannic finish. Graceful and quite approachable in a more international an (to me) less interesting key than the Chianti. It's more up front, with less to discover.
2 stars
La Camporena
La Camporena Chianti Classico DOCG 2009
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich and decidedly vegetal, with clean spice and greenish berry fruit, some artichoke stems, floral notes, and quite a bit of mentholated acidity. Fresh and brash. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather bitter finish. Pleasant in a more aggressive, rather vegetal key, and if you like the style you will like it. if you prefer softer fruit it won't work as well for you.
2 stars
La Camporena Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2008
Lively almandine with brilliant almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some underbrush with cedar as well. On the palate it's smooth, with fresh bright berry fruit supported by savory accents and tannins that are smooth, but do display some cedary notes and flow into a lastingly bitter finish. The nose is a bit behind the palate, and it needs until 2013 at least to come together, but promises nicely.
2 stars
Querciavalle
Querciavalle's Sangiovese was one of those studied by the Consorzio when they were developing the new Sangiovese clones in the late 1990s.
Querciavalle Chianti Classico DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright cherry fruit supported by some spice, heather, some balsamic accents, and some menthol. Pleasant but very young. On the palate it's medium bodied with pleasant cherry plum fruit supported by sweet plum acidity and tannins that have a greenish youthful burr, and flow into a clean savory finish that has slight sweetness from alcohol. It's pleasant in a ripe but not overripe fruit forward key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
Querciavalle Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2009
Barrel sample, from large oak.
95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo. Deep cherry ruby with almandine reflections. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and considerable warmth, with leather and spice, and bright acidity to provide direction. On the palate it's bright, with fresh lively cherry fruit supported by considerable warmth and some berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are still coming together, and it flows into a clean black peppery finish. Quite promising though it is very much a barrel sample, and needs 2-3 years at least. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.
Querciavalle Millennium Chianti Classico Riserva 2007
This is Sangiovese with Canaiolo and Malvasia nera. Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brooding berry fruit supported by alcohol and greenish brambly vegetal accents. Rather angry, and this is youth too. On the palate it's full and fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft acidity -- forest berry fruit with some strawberry accents -- and smooth bright tannins that with a warm burr that flow into a long rather peppery sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. Quite pleasant, and a very fine expression of the vintage, lively and bright with considerable brashness, but also grace. Worth seeking out.
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