Franzoni: Botticino!

Lombardia has a number of so-called lesser appellations, and Botticino, a red from the Alpine foothills to the west of Brescia (mid-way between Brescia and Lake Garda), is one of them. To be honest, the major reason Botticino is obscure is the volume produced; were the appellation larger, and more wine available, it would be much better known.

The climate and topography of the Botticino appellation resemble those of Piemonte, but the winemakers have been wise enough not to tangle with Nebbiolo, which is extraordinarily picky regarding where it is planted, and instead work with a mixture of at least 30% Barbera, at least 20% Marzemino, at least 10% each Sangiovese and Schiava Gentile, and up to 10% other non-aromatic red varietals permitted by the Province of Brescia.

The wine must be fermented and bottled locally. Botticino D'Annata cannot be released until the June following the harvest, while Botticino Riserva must age for at least a year, and cannot be released until the second November after the harvest. Minimum Alcohol contents are 11% for the vino d'Annata and 12% for the Riserva.

This year the Azienda Franzoni sent me three wines to taste.

Franzoni Ronco del Gallo Botticino DOC 2007
Lot 0942, 13% alcohol
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous, with lively sour berry fruit -- cherry and some currants, with other dark wild fruit as well -- supported by bitter underbrush and some wet tree bark, with slight graphite shavings and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. Scrappy, and rather tomboyish. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry acidity that has some graphite laced bitterness to it, and some underlying minerality, with slight cedar as well, and tannins that have a savory burr and flow into a long rather sour finish. It's as brash on the palate as it was on the nose, and if you're coming from softer smoother international-style wines you'll think you have landed on a different planet. But it is welcoming, leaving the palate clean, and is the sort of wine that will work very well with mixed grilled meats or even fried meats and vegetables. F you're more traditionally minded and like this style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Franzoni La Foja Botticino DOC 2006
Lot 3201, 13.5% alcohol
Deep cherry ruby with black cherry reflections and rim paling to ruby. No real signs of almandine yet. The bouquet is elegant, and richer than the Ronco's, with more seductive berry fruit laced with slight hints of cedar, and a little less acidity -- where the Ronco was brash, this is slightly more curvy, the tomboy grown up as it were. Quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich slightly balsamic sour red berry fruit supported by moderate rather balsamic acidity and by tannins that have wet leafy underbrush accents and flow into a clean underbrush laced finish. It's more refined that the Ronco, but cut from the same cloth, with an interplay sourness and grape tannins that is much more traditional than international, and it will work nicely with grilled meats (less fatty cuts than the Ronco; I would think about a steak) or light stews that aren't too spicy. It is still quite young, and will age nicely for another 2-3 years, though its current freshness is also quite enjoyable.
90

Franzoni Foja d'Or Botticino Riserva DOC 2004
Lot 3271, 14% Alcohol
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim that has slight almandine accents; the wine is 8 years old and the colors are starting to shift. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by slight cedar with hints of almonds and some savory notes, and also slight nose tingling spice, with some alcohol as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich sour cherry fruit that has fairly bright raspberry acidity -- the Barbera in the blend -- supported by deft rather mineral acidity with some graphite shaving bitterness, and savory accents that flow into a long rather savory sour berry fruit finish. Very nice, with beautiful balance in a fairly traditional key; it again revolves around the interplay between fruit and acidity, while the tannins support and provide backbone without distracting cedar or other influences. Very pleasant, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much; it is ready now, but will also age nicely for another three to five years at least, assuming you have the patience. I'm not sure I would. In terms of accompaniments, succulent not too fatty red meats, either roasted or off the grill.
91-93

A last thing to note: for their more important wines, Botticino's wineries employ a bottle called a Deformata Piemonte, which resembles an Albeisa-style bottle, but has a twist in it that throws it off-center. Looks a bit odd, but fits the hand very well and is easy to pour from.

More about Botticino, from Roberto Giuliani's fantastic writeup of Italian appellations.

La Bruciata: Moscato & More

A couple of years ago Oscar Bosio, who is best known for his Moscato, contacted me via Facebook and asked me to stop at his stand at Vinitaly. I did, for what I thought would be a quick stop, only to discover he makes all sorts of wines, all worth thinking about. This year I didn't make it to his stand, and he kindly sent samples to me.

La Bruciata Langhe Arneis DOC 2011
Lot AR04.12
Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with pleasant citrus, a mixture of citron and tangerine, mingled with some minerality and underlying slightly mentholated heather, all supported by sea salt. On the palate it's bright, with lively mineral laced brambly citrus that reveals heathery vegetal accents as it flows into the finish, which is long. It's quite refreshing, with considerable backbone, and will work very well with summer foods, including fried fish or meats, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 2-3 years; while its freshness now is nice if I had a case I'd set a couple of bottles aside, because they could provide a pleasant surprise.
90-91

La Bruciata Langhe Chardonnay DOC 2011
Lot CH 04.12
Pale brassy green with brilliant greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rather lemony, with some underlying sea salt and slight crisp green apple, and an underpinning of heather from a cut field in summer. On the palate it's softer than the Arneis, with rather languid lemony pineapple laced fruit supported by bright acidity and slight minerality that flows into a fairly long tart finish that gradually releases fairly acidic Delicious apple notes. It's a wine that will work nicely as an aperitif or with more delicate dishes -- I wouldn't serve it with fried meats or fish -- and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

La Bruciata Aivè Vino Bianco
Lot 2.10
An aivé is the opposite of a Sorì, in other words a north-facing slope, and this is a Moscato from north-facing slopes, bottled still. Because it's still -- the rules governing the appellations don't foresee a still dry Moscato -- it's a table wine, and therefore doesn't have a vintage, but from the lot number we can deduce that it's a 2010. Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights; white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sugary Moscato notes mingled with menthol and heather, and rather voluptuous yellow peach, while there's also a slight counterpoint of sweaty blonde that adds complexity and depth. Particular. On the palate it's  crisp and bright, with considerable minerality supported by mineral acidity that has slight heather notes as well, and flows into a long mineral finish. It's quite tight, and much brasher than the Chardonnay, and to my way of thinking better defined, but you have to like tarter defter wines to enjoy it. If you do you will, and it is quite distinct from the more common International varietal wines..
88-90

La Bruciata Moscato D'Asti DOCG 2011
Lot MO 10 11
Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine abundant perlage, quite a bit for a Moscato. The bouquet is rich, but not overly sweet, with some honeydew melon  and slight heather supported by the sweetness that honeydew melon  can have. Quick to write but harmonious. On the palate it's full and sweet, with elegant honeydew melon  fruit that has enough acidity to keep from being cloying, and creamy fullness from the sparkle, which is quite soft, and it all flows into a fairly long honeydew melon  laced finish. Quite pleasant, and will be perfect at poolside on a hot day, or with frieds outside as the sky darkens and the stars come out. A good Moscato can be a great delight, and this one is.
90-91

La Bruciata Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2011
Lot DO 04.12
Lively slightly purple cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is classic Dolcetto, with a mixture of red berry fruit and bitter almonds supported by some greenish brambly accents. Zesty. On the palate it's light-medium bodied, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and quite a bit of sea salt, while the tannins are dusky and bitter, and have a nice bite to them. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it will work very well with simple grilled meats, for example burgers or ribs or chicken (the latter seasoned with herbs, not sweet sauces). It's one of those wines that will go very fast in the proper setting, and you will need a second bottle.
2 stars


La Bruciata Barbera D'Alba DOC 2010
Lot BA 04.11
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is warm, and fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by brambly strawberry acidity and by some mineral notes that have a touch of struck granite to them, and that gain in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's medium bodied, with decidedly brambly fruit supported by considerable sea salt and some balsamic savory accents, coupled with fairly bright mineral acidity and tannins that have a slight burr to them. It's rather old style, especially in the balsamic cast, and if you are looking for ripe red fruit, and smooth softness, it's not going to work for you. If you instead like scrappier wines with a bit of bite to them, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and go quickly.
2 stars

For more information, check La Bruciata's Site.

Almost at Vinitaly: Cà Russin

I have known Bruna Ferro for a number of years -- in 2003 I was one of the journalists assigned to visit her at Carussin during Barbera Meeting. Her husband Luigi and I sweated through the vineyards on a vintage jeep, and when we got back to the winery discovered it was well over 100 F -- late in the afternoon, and (if I remember right) not yet June.

Following our meeting I made a point of visiting her every year at Vinitaly, and was rather upset to discover she wasn't present this year. But she wasn't far: She was in the Vicentino, at Vin nature, a presentation of natural wines held in an elegant villa in the Vicentino, Unfortunately, it was hot enough that the shuttle bus from Veronafiere was excruciating. So upon arriving, after downing a bottle of water I went looking for a beer, and that led me to Bruna, because her son makes several top quality craft beers. After slaking my thirst I turned to the wines, preferring to concentrate upon wines in bottle rather than cask samples.

Cà Russin La Tranquilla Barbera D'Asti 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is vinous, with jammy notes and some greenish accents supported by heather, spice and moderate acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, with deft sour cherry fruit supported by bright savory acidity and sea salt, while there is also moderately intense more mineral than fruit derived acidity that flows into a clean fresh sour cherry finish with some brandied accents. It feels like it was from a hot vintage, and will drink well with roasts or grilled meats.
2 stars

Cà Russin Ferro Carlo Barbera D'Asti Superiore Nizza 2007
This is named after Bruna's father, and ages in a 70-30 mix of barriques and botti. It's deep black cherry ruby with ruby rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with jammy berry fruit supported by bramble and cedar, and some greenish vegetal accents. Pleasant in a concentrated, well oaked key; it gives an impression of substantiality. On the palate it's full and polished with almost dusky berry fruit supported by cleans sour cherry acidity and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a clean cedar-laced finish. Pleasant in a rich rather dusky brooding key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts. Ponderous.
2 stars

Cà Russin Lia Vì 2010
This is a barrel sample; ruby with fresh fruit, violets and berry fruit laced with tartness and quite fresh. On the palate it's a lark of a wine, with bright fresh berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet light tannins. It will go very fast and be the ideal wine for a cookout

Cà Russin Asinoi Barbera d'Asti 2010
Another barrel sample; it's deep violet with violet rim and has a fresh bouquet with red berry fruit and some violets. On the palate it's bright with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and savory notes, which flow into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Another wine to drink by the bucket, but not as brash or as tart as Lia Vì. If you like light wines with a little more polish you will like it very much.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Oscar Bosio

Oscar Bosio is best known for his Moscato, and when he contacted me via Facebook, asking me to taste his wines at Vinitaly, I expected it to be a quick stop. Big mistake, because he makes more than I realized, and Maurizio Fava, who helps him sell his wines, wanted me to taste everything.

Here we go:

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Langhe Chardonnay 2010
Lot CH 4 11
Pale brassy green with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and fairly intense minerality mingled with sea salt and some apple fruit. On the palate it's bright, and fresh, with pleasant white berry fruit supported by fairly bright citric acidity that leads into a clean fairly bright finish with pleasant minerality. Not at all overripe (which makes sense considering the vintage) and pleasant.
2 stars

This had been just bottled, so Maurizio had me try:

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Langhe Chardonnay 2009
Lot CH 03 11
Elegant greenish brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is elegant with rich warm white fruit, pineapple supported by sunny acidity and some greenish vegetal accents. Beautiful bouquet, and it's in part the additional time in bottle, and in part the vintage. On the palate it's full and rich, with languid honeydew melon supported by savory accents and deft loquat acidity that flow into a clean bright savory white berry fruit finish with a loquat and honeydew melon underpinning. Very fine, in an elegant, richer key.
90-92

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Langhe Arneis 2010
Lot AR 04 11
This Arneis was Bruno Giacosa's; when dante Scaglione, who used to work with Mr. Giacosa, joined Oscar he brought the vineyard with him. The wine is pale brassy white with greenish reflections, and has a fairly intense bouquet with minerality and spice supported by heather and deft citric accents. Quite pleasant, and theminerlaity is quite refreshing. On the palate it's bright, and quite mineral with lemo9ny citric fruit supported by minerality and sea salt, and flow into a very long clean mineral finish with savory underpinning. Very nice, and will work well as either an aperitif or with fish.
90-91

Oscar Bosio Aivé Vino Bianco
Lot 2.09
This is a Vino da Tavola and therefore doesn't have an official vintage, though the 09 in the lot number does tell its age. An aivé is the opposite of a Sorì, in other words a north-facing slope, and this is a Moscato from north-facing slopes, bottled still. It's pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and has a rich bouquet with classic Moscato aromas of honeysuckle, honey and white berry fruit mingled with very ripe yellow peach and honeydew melon. Very fine. The palate is full and rich, with bright slightly sweet lemony fruit supported by tangerine and honeydew melon , and by savory accents that flow into a clean bright finish with savory honeydew melon acidity that gradually settles into minerality. Quite pleasant and offers an excellent alternative to the more usual aromatic dry white wines (e.g. Sauvignon); it's well worth seeking out if you like richly aromatic whites, and will also work well with aromatic or spicy foods, including curries either Indian or Thai.
88-90

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Moscato D'Asti 2010
Lot MO 12 11
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections, greenish highlights, and fine white perlage, The bouquet is rich, with honeysuckle, sugars, and some savory notes, and though this may sound one dimensional, it's remarkably harmonious. On the palate it's quite elegant, with rich honeysuckle and fleshy yellow peaches supported by peach acidity and sweetness, and flows into a long sweet finish. Great finesse on the palate, and this is because it's less sweet tan the average Moscato, and as a result is fresher and more pleasant to drink. It will work very well with creamy or dry desserts, and will also be a fine wine to sip on a summer evening.
90-91

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Ermengildo
This is a Vendemmia Tardiva da Uva Autoctone di Langa, in other words "from late-harvested indigenous grapes;" the grapes in question are Moscato, cut and left to dry in the vineyards for an additional 3-4 weeks after the regular harvest. Due to the concentration of the grapes, fermentation times are quite long. The wine is named after Oscar's father, and is am elegant gold with brilliant gold reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite intense, with honeysuckle and vegetal accents laced with orange and lemon blossoms, and supported by tangerine acidity. Beautiful nose. On the palate it's full, with rich, powerful sweet Muscat fruit -- It's like Moscato raisins with bitterness to balance the fruit, while there's not quite so much acidity and it flows into a clean sweet sugar-laced finish. I'd have expected a little more acidity on the palate given the nose, but minerality steps in and does so well, and it flows into a long, reather bittersweet finish. Very pleasant and will work well with flavorful cheeses, for example Stilton.
88-90

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Il MosChin
Lot 80Q309
This is aromatized with quinine and a mixture of 42 herbs and spices; it's white with brilliant brassy reflections and some greenish highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with rich quinine and elegant spice, nutmeg, cloves and more, supported by deft sweetness that confers considerable complexity. A great lot going on. On the palate it's rich and full, with powerful quinine and other aromas supported by sweetness and greenish bitter spice that flow into a long sweet spicy finish.
91-2

Note: Maurizio says this is a progenitor of Vermouth, which was made with Moscato until the big industrial winemakers decided Moscato was too expensive to put to this use. Serve it very cold as an aperitif, or slightly warmer at the end of the meal.

We closed with a red:

Oscar Bosio La Bruciata Barbera D'Alba DOC 2008
Lot BA 03 10
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright with lively red berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that's just as lively, clean spice, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's light and fresh, with zesty sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry citric acidity and by slight tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish, Classic Barbera and a wine you will set out and drink with grilled or fried mats and vegetables. A perfect summer wine.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi: Nebbiolo and More from Grinzane Cavour

The last day of Nebbiolo Prima, I paid a visit to Bruna Grimaldi, who has a small winery in Grinzane Cavour, with vineyards in Serralunga, Diano D'Alba and Cornegliano as well. It was a very nice way to finish up an extremely busy week.

Bruna Grimaldi Valscura Langhe Chardonnay 2009
This is fermented in steel and then spends a brief time in steel, with battonage. Pale brassy green with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with lively citric fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of berry fruit acidity. Quite fresh, and as it opens savory notes also emerge. On the palate it's rich, with powerful honeydew melon and loquat fruit supported by some sweetness and fairly brisk acidity that flow into a clean bright loquat and honeydew melon finish with honeydew melon sweetness that is fairly long. Pleasant, and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif, or with cheeses and with cheese based dishes, including spicier herbal cheeses along the lines of gorgonzola, perhaps more in a dish (penne al gorgonzola) than by itself.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi San Martino Dolcetto D'Alba 2008
This is bottled in July, after several months in a mixture of steel and cement. With the 2009 the malolactic fermentation took off immediately. The 2008 wasn't quite as quick, but was early, and spontaneous. The wine is lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fresh, with rich cherry fruit laced with floral accents and deft almond blossoms mingled with bitter almond acidity. Quite fresh, and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh prune finish that's fairly sweet with almond accents. Quite pleasant, a lark of a wine that will drink very well with cold cuts or simple grilled meats, and also be nice with simple meat based pasta dishes, or even with pizza. It's a bit softer than some -- less biting tannins -- and as a result comes across as a bit sweeter; this is something to keep in mind if you prefer a more tannic Dolcetto, but it is quite pleasant and the sweetness is frankly seductive.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi Scassa Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2007
This spent 14 months in a mixture of large botti and older tonneaux. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is closed at the outset, though swishing brings up lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by brisk dusky acidity and clean greenish accents; it's quite pleasant, and though Bruna told me that it was oaked it's not as oaky as many oaked Barbere are. In other words, next to a wine in steel one will note a difference, but oak supports rather than take center stage. On the palate it's ample and smooth with rich cherry fruit supported by clean smooth tannins and by clean bright acidity; the oak is more apparent on the palate, in the sense of a softness and a polish that one doesn't find in unoaked Barbera, but is quite pleasant. It will drink very well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for 4-5 years.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi Briccola Nebbiolo d'Alba 2008
Recently bottled; the vineyards are in Diano D'alba, and it spent 14 months in tonneaux (not new) followed by a couple of months in tank. It's elegant almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is elegant, with rich floral accents mingled with rosa canina and bright cherry acidity supported by cherry fruit and some greenish accents and some brambles. It's quite young, but pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and bright acidity, and by sweet tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean bright cherry finish with slight underlying sweetness (the wine is dry). Very pleasant, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also with roasts; because of the sweetness in the finish it will also work well with more highly spiced dishes that might choke at a wine without the sweetness. A goulash, for example, or ribs in bbq sauce. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi Barolo Camilla DOCG 2006
This is from Grinzane Cavour, and is from a vineyard that's 8 years old. The wine is named indirectly after Camilla, one of Cavour's sisters -- he had several poderi and named each after a sister. It was bottled in November, and is deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fresh, and quite young, with greenish accents and cedar mingled with rosa canina and some berry fruit. It's deft, but -- having been told -- does reveal a certain youth of the vineyard, which will have more to offer in the future. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by deft berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean slightly sour, slightly greenish berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and though quite young displays considerable depth; it will drink well now with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for a number of years, though I don't think it will be tremendously long-lived -- the vineyard contributes what maturity it can but can only go so far. But I did enjoy it.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi Badarina Barolo DOCG 2006
Bottled in August. It's deeper black almandine ruby with black reflections and more charged rim than the Camilla; it's from an older vineyard at the end of the Serralunga area whose elevation ranges from 370 to 420 m ASL. The bouquet is intense, with dusky berry fruit supported by a fair amount of spice and some greenish accents laced with cedar, and also some graphite shaving bitterness. Very young, and needs time. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly bright berry fruit acidity, while the tannins flow onto a clean berry fruit finish with some sacalded milk bitterness that is due to the youth of the wine. It's quite pleasant but needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings and will age nicely for a decade or more. Expect it to do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Bruna Grimaldi Badarina Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine nail; by comparison with the 2006 it's similar, but the nail is more pronounced. The bouquet is powerful, and still very young, with berry fruit laced with leaf tobacco and some hints of white truffle, and also savory spice. It gives an impression of austere distance coupled with power. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by sweet berry fruit acidity and by mentholated tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean savory berry fruit finish that has some pleasant greenish notes, and reveals hints of plums as the acidity fades. Pleasant and still in mid stride; one could open it now but doing so is close to committing an infanticide; it give much more of itself in the future if you have the patience to wait. 10 or even 15 years.
88-90

Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa: Fine Nebbiolos, and Other Wines Too

As I have said before, the folks at Nebbiolo Prima organized afternoon meetings with the winemakers, and on the third day I decided to visit the Antica Casa Vinicola Scarpa, which is a bit further than some -- in Nizza Monferrato.

Despite their location in the heart of the Astigiano they make both Barolo and Barbaresco, because they always have -- the winery was founded 150 years ago by a winemaker from the Veneto, Antonio Scarpa, and more recently was directed by the late Mario Pesce, one of the great winemakers of the Astigiano, who passed the scepter on to Maria Piera Zola and her family -- and since they were already making Barolo and Barbaresco when the Disciplinare governing the Appellations was drawn up, they were given permission to continue making it. In terms of provenance, their Barbaresco is from Neive, their Barolo is from La Morra, and their Nebbiolo from Montu Roero.

In addition to making Barolo and Barbaresco, they make two Crus of Barbera: Bugliona, which is from a vineyard whose soils are more calcareous and have a gypsum vein, and I Bricchi, from a vineyard whose soils are redder. And they make a number of other interesting wines, including a Ruchè that they label Monferrato Rosso DOC because the vineyard is outside the Ruchè di Castiglione Monferrato DOCG production area, and a wine from Albarossa, which is a Nebbiolo-Barbera cross developed in 1939 by Professor Dalmasso.

As benefits a winery located in Monferrato, I started with Barbera:

Scarpa I Bricchi Barbera D'Asti 2006
Recently bottled, and they want to underline that. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by lively greenish spice from grapes and bracing sour berry fruit acidity too. Quite pleasant to sniff, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's rich, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by brisk, lively acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that add a cool counterpoint to the warmth of the acidity, and flows into a bright tart berry fruit finish. A beautiful expression of Barbera, and though it is a tad young, they're right, it has a great deal to say and is very pleasant to sniff. It will be perfect with succulent grilled meats, ranging from lamb chops through steak, and will also age nicely for at least 5-8 years. Worth seeking out.
90-91

Scarpa La Bogliona Barbera D'Asti 2005
Deep cherry ruby that's slightly more intense than the 2006 Bricchi, and black reflections paling to orange. The bouquet is rich, with powerful sour berry fruit supported by minerality and some greenish accents, and also a fair amount of alcohol and some savory sea salt. It is a distinct step up from the Bricchi, in part because of the difference in terrains, but also thanks to a year more in bottle. Beautiful, and very fresh; displaying terrific elegance and depth; one could sniff and sniff again and again. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by deft sweet tannins; the wine is more graceful than the Bricchi, and the acidity more willowy, and this is also its greater age. Very impressive and one could drink it with a rich meal, or enjoy it by itself with like minded friends -- it is a Barbera, with the lively acidity of the varietal, and if you're going to sip it you will have to make certain everyone expects it.
92-3

Scarpa Selvarossa Vino Da Tavola Rosso
This is an Albarossa, a varietal developed by Professor Dalmasso in 1939: a Barbera da Nebbiolo made from a cross between a Barbera and a Nebbiolo that turned out to be a bit rustic. The bunches have tiny berries -- good for extraction, leaves that resemble Barbera, and stems with striations like one finds in Nebbiolo. This is a 2004, the first vintage from an experimental vineyard planted in 2000 (the 2006 vintage, which is aging in bottle, is a Monferrato Rosso DOC). It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks interesting. The bouquet is intense, with leathery accents and some brambles, and underlying berry fruit as well, and pleasant spice, a mixture of nutmeg and mace with some coffee grounds, while there is also fairly bright acidity that hearkens to Barbera. On the palate it's quite interesting, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by lively raspberry citric acidity that flow into a clean warm finish. Very drinkable, and quite pleasant; it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light roasts, and will go quickly. A cheeky, fun wine with a lively smile. Something to keep an eye out for.
90-91

Scarpa Freisa Monferrato DOC 2006
Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim paling to barest orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly red berry fruit supported by unusual, and interesting mentholated accents and some herbal notes that bring heather from a cut field to mind, Interesting, and demands attention. On the palate it's ample, with rich slightly sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by dusky raspberry acidity that has shadowy bitter undertones, and is supported by brambly tannins that have dusky bitter notes and flow into a clean bright bitter finish. Quite pleasant, combining power with a certain brambly carefree feel, and will drink well with succulent meals from bollito misto though fried meats and vegetables. An ideal food for richer fatty winter fare, and will also be very nice with succulent grilled meats, e.g. sausages. Beautiful acidity.
2 stars

Scarpa Barbaresco Tettineive DOCG 2006
Rich slightly orange almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and elegant, with powerful strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by deft greenish accents and pleasant nutmeg spice. It's quick to write, and very young, but also very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich with powerful berry fruit laced with yellow peach sweetness and supported by deft sour strawberry acidity, while the tannins are quite young, with a slight burr and very smooth, and flow into a long clean warm finish. Very pleasant, and though it's a sin to drink it this young one could do so with a hearty roast and be very happy. But it will reward those blessed with patience. Expect it to age well for at least 15 years, likely more.
90-92

Scarpa Barolo Tettimorra DOCG 2004
Rich almandine with lively ruby reflections and black highlights, and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit that is beginning to reveal rosa canina as well, and clean savory spice from grapes; there's a vibrant youthfulness to it that is extremely pleasant, with some cut tobacco as well that adds depth and complexity. A great lot going on, and one of those wines one could sniff and sniff again. Hints yellow peach too in the berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, rich, and smooth, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish bitter accents, and flow into a clean bright finish. Very pleasant, and has a lot to say, though drinking it is a bit of a sin now because it really needs another 3-5 years to begin to show its best. It's a child, and a nice one, but has a ways to go.
90

Scarpa Briccorosa Rouchet Monferrato Rosso DOC 2007
Elegant, lively ruby with brilliant reflections and black highlights, cherry rim paling to orange. The bouquet is absolutely classic, with rich floral accents supported by sandalwood spice and jammy berry fruit with some underlying yellow peach jam, and hints of menthol as well; it's a moving target and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by sandalwood spice and clean rich berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright spicy berry fruit finish with rich floral accents. Very pleasant and will drink quite well with cheeses and cheese dishes, also with friends far from the table.
88-90

They also poured a bottle of the 1996, which was bottled as a vino da tavola. With respect to the 2007 it's a duskier black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is interesting, with rich mentholated spice supported by some sandalwood, dried orange peel, and hints of cloves, but what really comes out is the menthol. Very interesting. On the palate it's full, with rich slightly smoky berry fruit supported by menthol spice and some rather dusty sandalwood and also fairly bright cedary acidity that is the grape and not wood. Quite interesting, and though it doesn't have the freshness of the 2007 it is very much alive, and impressively so. I enjoyed it, and it does show that top quality Ruchè can age.

Scarpa la Selva di Moirano Vino Rosso
This is a Brachetto Secco 2007, though they couldn't indicate the vintage on the label because it's a Vino da Tavola. Elegant ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim paling towards pink. The bouquet is rich, with powerful fairly sweet raspberry fruit supported by rich, very ripe strawberries and by strawberry acidity and clean rich greenish accents and spice as it opens. Very pleasant to sniff, and something one could spend considerable time on. On the palate it's rich, with powerful strawberry raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity and a fair amount of warmth, and also enough sweetness to confer a voluptuous cast, though it's not really sweet. Were it bone dry it would seem much thinner than it is. Very pleasant, and an ideal wine to drink with friends in the evening as the stars come out, or with cheeses including blue cheeses. Impressive and a wine that will bring considerable joy.
88-90

It was my good fortune that they also opened a bottle of their 1999 Brachetto.
It's slightly more almandine in terms of color, with pale orange nail, and has -- as did the Ruché -- a much spicier nose, with considerable menthol mingled with sandalwood and some green leather, also leaf tobacco. Very interesting, and though it's clearly not young it is still quite fresh. On the palate it's rich, with lively berry fruit supported by considerable mentholated spice, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with bright spicy accents. Very interesting, and quite impressive. Wonderful personality.

It was a wonderful way to finish a fine day of tasting!

Commendator Burlotto: Piemontese Tradition and Innovation

I first met Marina Burlotto and her son, Fabio Alessandria, in the hall of the hotel we share at Verona each year during Vinitaly. If I remember right -- it has been many years -- Fabio and I had a discussion on the merits of very long maceration times for Barolo, of the sort that were once common but have now vanished almost completely, and suggested I stop by their stand in the Piemonte pavilion. I did, and was Impressed, and now Commendator Burlotto is usually my last stop at the end of Vinitaly, during which I taste the wines while they take the stand apart and prepare for the long drive home.
This time I was even later than usual, and Marina was happy to have me sitting there while Fabio and his Dad were ferrying stuff to the car, because there was a loud drunk who had finished going through the empty bottles in the stand facing theirs, and was hopefully eyeing the bottles they had not yet packed away.

As I said, Commendator Burrlotto combines innovation and tradition. Innovation in the newer wines, for example Elatis, a rosé that they're forced to bottle as table wine because none of the appellations applicable to the Langhe region contemplate rosé wines. Their whites are also innovative -- they're made from Sauvignon -- as is some of their Barbera, if one can call still call a Barbera aged in small oak innovative. Other wines of the line are instead quite traditional, and range from light and easy to drink -- Dolcetto & Freisa -- through richly aromatic and versatile -- Pelaverga -- and on to profound and extraordinarily complex -- Barolo.

The wines:

Commedator Burlotto Elatis Vino Rosato
55 % Nebbiolo, 35% Pelaverga and 10% Barbera
Pale rose with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by some greenish aromatic accents and hints of sandalwood with pleasant underbrush and some spice from the rgapes. On the palate it's rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by bright sour raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet light tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well as an aperitif or with cookout foods. Versatile, fresh, and an ideal summer wine. Worth seeking out. For the summer months.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Viridis Langhe DOC 2009
This is a Sauvignon Blanc; it's pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite intense, with, well, one writes what one smells, and here there's the seductive odor of a sweaty strawberry blonde. And since I'm male I don't object at all; a woman might find other aromas. As it opens there's airiness and a degree of gooseberry as well, but the aroma is what it is, and it's much more interesting than cat pee. On the palate it's ample, with rich sour gooseberry fruit supported by warmth and greenish acidity that flow into a clean rich gooseberry finish whose aromas bring the blonde to mind again. It's a wine that takes no quarter; if you like Sauvignon you will like it very much, but if you don't it simply won't work for you. Assuming you like it, it would be nice with grilled fish or fried meats and fish, and would also be something to think about serving at a cookout in the summer months. Quite nice in its freshness.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Dives Langhe DOC 2008
Again, a Sauvignon Blanc. Pale greenish brassy gold with brilliant greenish brassy reflections. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents mingled with gooseberry and green lemon acidity; nice depth and quite fresh. On the palate it's rich, with full bright lemony fruit supported by dusky bitter accents that reveal hints of balsamic sea salt and eucalyptus, and flow into a clean bright rather greenish finish. Pleasant, in a much more substantial key than the Viridis; it will work well with hearty fish dishes, and also creamy white meats; I likely wouldn't think to serve it at a cookout, and it also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. If I had several bottles I would set a few aside.
88

Commedator Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga DOC 2009
Elegant pale ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense for a just-bottled wine, with sandalwood and berry fruit mingled with some greenish accents and pleasant spice. A lot going on and very young. On the palate it's ample and rich, with greenish spicy -- sandalwood and some greenish accents, mingled with nutmeg and hints of cardamom -- berry fruit supported by clean bright greenish tannins that flow into a clean rather green tannic berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and quite fresh, and will be perfect with red meats of the sort that are difficult to pair, for example giblets and other organ meats, or with simple grilled meats in the summer months. Pelaverga is particular, it has a spicy richness that you will either like or not, but of you do you will enjoy it very much, and this is quite nice.
88

Commedator Burlotto Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is powerful, with bitter almond blossoms mingled with red berry fruit and some sweetish accents; quite pleasant to sniff and rich too. Considerable depth, and nice fruit laced with alcohol. On the palate it's rich, with clean lively berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by tannins that have a slightly bitter burr and flow into a clean bright bitter berry fruit finish. Considerable depth and quite nice, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also work well with hearty pasta dishes or similar. Quite nice, and what a Dolcetto is all about.
88-90

Commedator Burlotto Barbera D'Alba 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and lively cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively bright berry fruit supported by spice and fairly bright berry fruit acidity; it's quite typical of Barbera and you may find yourself swishing and sniffing repeatedly. On the palate it's rich, with lively berry fruit supported by slightly sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with underlying tartness. It's quick to write but very nice and an ideal food wine with grilled or roasted meats, and will also be nice with stews. You could also -- and Marina Burlotto shudders at this -- use it to season meat ravioli, as they do in the Alessandrino. Well worth seeking out.
90-92

Commedator Burlotto Aves Barbera D'Alba 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and purple rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with berry fruit laced with cedar and some spice, and also a fair amount of warmth. On the palate it's ample and quite soft, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by spicy tannins and fairly bright dusky acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's very young, and needs to come together yet, while the fruit is elegant but does suffer the influence of the wood, and it flows into a rather bitter finish. Pleasant in a more international key, and to be frank I found myself longing for the freshness of the Barnera D'Alba. This is like a person with a blanket thrown over him. Hidden.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Mores Langhe DOC 2007
This is a bland of Barbera and Nebbiolo. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents from Nebbiolo mingled with berry fruit and spice, and also a pleasant airiness. Quite a bit to sniff and pleasant, with intriguing spicy accents, in particular nutmeg that is from grapes. A lot to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright slightly greenish berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with roasts or stews now, though it also has the capacity to age nicely for 5-8 years
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Langhe Freisa DOC 2007
They have come to the understanding that Freisa needs some bottle age, and hence have kept it a little longer in bottle. Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart berry fruit supported by airy acidity and clean greenish accents with hints of rosa canina and peppery spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's quite fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish dusky burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant in a scrappy key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats -- lesser cuts more than a steak, though one could even do that, and also with stewed or braised red meats more than white. As such, it's a nice wine for a cookout or fall when it's not too cold to fire up the grill.
2 stars

Commedator Burlotto Nebbiolo D'Alba 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich slightly lemony berry fruit supported by clean spice and slight greenish vegetal accents that many people don't associate with Nebbiolo, but that are instead integral to the grape. Nice depth and balance, and considerable freshness. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright almost citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh rather tannic finish with tart berry fruit underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with a stew or a roast, and will also be nice at a cookout with succulent grilled meats; it has quite enough tannin and acidity to stand up to a porterhouse cut cooked rare.
90

Commedator Burlotto Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with rosa canina and deft berry fruit supported by pleasant spice; it's very young but displays considerable depth and has a lot going for it, and is obviously at the beginning of a long climb,. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a lively brambly youth to them and by deft leathery mineral acidity that flows into a dry berry fruit tannic finish. It's very young, and though one could drink it now with a steak it needs time, a couple of years, at least, and will do very impressive things in a decade or more. A wine that will be impressive if you give it time, in a fairly traditional style.
88

Commedator Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by nutmeg laced spice from grape and delicate berry fruit; it's quite harmonious and very young; there are obviously many things yet to develop in the nose. It's not quite like looking at a half-finished canvas, but almost. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with deft tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, though again very young and now it's a toddler wandering the schoolyard. It needs at least a couple of years to get it bearings and decide where it will go. It will be worth waiting for too.
90

Commedator Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is young but quite impressive, with elegant spice -- nutmeg and hints of clove -- mingled with cherry prune and some rosa canina. Beautiful though very, very young. At the beginning of a very long climb. Impressive. On the palate it's rich and smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well with roasts or stews, though one would be a fool to open in before 3-5 years, because it's a wine that will age for decades, and to interrupt that path now would simply be wrong.
92

Commedator Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi Barolo 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with some rosa canina and deft berry fruit spice mingled with some greenish accents with hints of leaf tobacco and alcohol. Very young, and though it has spent several months in bottle it's really not ready yet. On the palate it's full and quite smooth with soft fresh berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. It's quite elegant, and very young, but doesn't have the depth of the Monvigliero, and I would give it time. Some fellow journalists have said it's readier than the other crus, but readier is a relative term. At least 5 years, before it will be ready to think about being drunk.
88-90

Commendator Burlotto's Site (they also have a nice Agriturismo)

Wines from Giorgio Carnevale, Winemaker in Cerro Tanaro

Time was, the farmers of the hills around Alba who grew the grapes used to make Piemonte's renowned wines would tend their vineyards, and at harvest time bring the grapes down to Alba's main square, where the mediatori, or wine merchants, waited to buy the grapes and make the wine. Since then the farmers have become vintners, stars of the agricultural firmament, while most of the merchants are gone.

Most; the town of Cerro Tanaro still boasts the Azienda Giorgio Carnevale, founded by Giorgio's grandfather more than a century ago. Back in those days, the commerce centered around the sale of vino sfuso, wine in bulk, and the units of measurement were primarily the barrel and the demijohn. Giorgio, who got his degree in enology in 1946, was one of the first in the area to realize that it was more important to produce quality than quantity (among other things, this led to bottling the wines). All the Piemontese producers whose names are now household words in the wine industry came to see what he was doing, and his Barolo so impressed the commission charged with drawing up the Barolo DOC regulations in the early 60s that it decreed the wine be produced either within the 5 Comuni where the vineyards are planted -- or at Cerro Tanaro.

"The 60s and 70s were golden decades, but in the 80s conditions changed," said Giorgio's son Alessandro, who now directs the family business. "Many of our suppliers turned their vineyards over to their children, people who had studied enology. They invested heavily to increase quality, struck out on their own, and many have become leading figures." The loss of these long-term suppliers has forced the company to adjust and develop new sources of grapes, which is an on-going process. "We do have some advantages over producers who own their vineyards," he continued. Many landowners, especially those who have inherited the land but have other jobs, are quite happy to sell grapes and have someone else worry about production and wine sales; Alessandro has thus been able to select choice parcels of land throughout the area. "The relationship is based on friendship and trust," he says, observing that quality must be recognized and paid for. In return he asks for careful cultivation, minimal use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and low yields. Come harvest time, the grapes are brought to the company headquarters at Cerro Tanaro, fermented, aged, and bottled.

The production is quite traditional, in the sense that though Alessandro likes Cabernet and Merlot, he is against blending them with the local grapes, either to produce table wines or to add an "international" dimension to Piemontese wines. He feels that doing so introduces an element of distortion: The wines may be good, but are no longer uniquely Piemontese, and are therefore not what he is interested in.

I stopped by the winery on my way home from Piemonte last summer, picked up some samples, and though great fault of my own, and none of Alessandro's, am posting the notes now.

Giorgio Carnevale Moscato d'Asti 2008
Pale greenish brassy yellow with intense perlage that fades to ring the glass. The bouquet is intense, with citrus fruit mingles with gooseberry and fair sweetness that gains depth from some bitter accents. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's full, sweet, and creamy, with elegant regina Claudia plum fruit supported by clean bright acidity, creamy sweetness, and sparkelt hat lends lsight peppery accents, while there is ample bright regina Claudia plum acidity that flows into a long clean finish. Quite nice, and will be perfect at the close of a meal, or with friends far from the table.
88-90

Giorgio Carnevale La Fleisa Vivace De La Rocchetta Freisa d'Asti Secco 2008
Elegant deep ruby with fine perlage that rises, and then things the glass as it settles. The bouquet is rich, with fresh floral accents mingled with dusky bitterness and raspberry. It brings to mind a crisp fall day, somehow, and is quite invigorating. On the palate it's bitter, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by leafy underbrush bitterness and sparkle, which flow into a clean bitter finish. Simple, direct, and a bit of a lark, it's an ideal wine for cold cuts, pizza, and other quickly prepared foods, for example grilled hamburgers. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Giorgio Carnevale Barbera del Monferrato Frizzante DOC 2008
Deep ruby with fine perlage that settles quickly. The bouquet is fresh, and bitter, with some underbrush and dusky berry fruit with savory accents; as it opens delicate floral accents emerge as well. On the palate it's direct, and quite up front, with moderately rich sour berry fruit supported by sparkle and fairly light tannins, while there is moderate acidity as well. It's direct, a simple food wine of the sort one sets out on the table and quickly has to replace, because it will go very well with foods, supporting rather than distracting, and people will drink it. What foods? Quickly grilled meats, simple stews (with polenta) and also pizza or even fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Giorgio Carnevale Grignolino D'Asti DOC 2008
Pale pinkish brick with onionskin fading to white rim, the classic color for Grignolino. The bouquet is brambly, with considerable acidity and some leafy underbrush mingled with tart berry fruit and savory spice. Seems tannic, and this is again typical of Grignolino. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour raspberry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are a tad rough, with a clean warm burr that leads into a long tart finish. It's particular, and Grignolino is; if you like tart wines with high acidities you will enjoy it very much, and it will be perfect with fried meats and vegetables, or grilled meats, especially rich fare such as sausage or chicken with the skin. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Giorgio Carnevale Barbera D'Asti DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by some dusky underbrush and spice from grapes, with hints of graphite shavings and bitterness. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit sipported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins. It's a touch lax, and I'd have liked a little more force to the acidity, which is pronounced, the way one wants in a young unoaked Barbera,but not quite forceful enough. This in a tasting situation; it will drink quite well with foods, however, supporting what it's served with without demanding the limelight.
1 star

Giorgio Carnevale Il Crottino Barbera D'Asti DOC 2000
This is obviously not the most recent vintage, but Alessandro still has some and asked me to try it. Since older Barberas are relatively rare, I was happy to say yes. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is powerful, with red berry fruit supported by hints of caramel and spice, with underlying cedar too. Nicely balanced,a nd though clearly mature it doesn't come across as old. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has a slight sweet underpinning, which is attributable to the heat that came in August 2000, supported by deft slightly savory balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a graceful bitter cherry finish with graphite shaving underpinnings. To be frank, it's a surprise; it has aged very well, and will be nice with leaner red meats, along the lines of thickly cut rare roast beef. It is particular, but if you like older wines you will enjoy it.
90

Four Wines from Monte Delle Vigne

One of the nice things about working on the Web is that people can contact you, and a few weeks ago a package with four bottles appeared from Monte Delle Vigne, a winery located in Collecchio, not far from Parma.

I confess that I was unfamiliar with Monte Delle Vigne, but very much enjoyed the wines. In particular their Brut Rosé; while I am familiar with (and like) Barbera Vivace, this fully sparkling wine reveals a facet of the Barbera varietal I had never before encountered. Nabucco, an IGT Emilia Rosso, is also interesting, showing that Barbera blends as well with Merlot as it does with other North Italian varietals. In short, I thank them for allowing me to make a pleasant discovery.

The wines:

Callas Malvasia Emilia IGT 2007
Lot 50 08
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet has all the richness one expects of a Malvasia, with powerful honey-laced floral accents mingled with some heather and sage, and some underlying gooseberry as well, while definition comes from slightly brambly acidity. Quite nice. On the palate it's rich, with bright lemony fruit that gains direction from brisk acidity with tart loquat-tangerine accents, and flows into a long warm tart finish that continues at length. It's a powerful, direct wine that will drink quite well with foods, and I would in particular be tempted to serve it lightly chilled with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables, including artichokes, which clash with the tannins of a red wine. It will also work nicely with robust oriental dishes, including those that contain Sichuan pepper and like spices that again clash with reds. In short, enjoyable in a smiling sunny key, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Monte Delle Vigne Rubina Brut Rosé
Lot 08 08
As I said above, this is made from Barbera. It's pale salmon pink with fine, persistent slightly pink perlage. The bouquet is rich, with slightly brambly forest berry fruit laced with hints of wet breadcrumbs and some savory overtones. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with clean slightly bitter red berry fruit that gains direction from slightly bitter red currant acidity, and peppery fullness from the sparkle, while the finish is long and fruit laced with savory bitter overtones. It's different with respect to most rosés, with the fruit more towards currants and a hint of blackberry, but quite pleasant and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with cheese or egg based antipasti, and could also be nice with mildly flavored fish, or delicate risotti.
2 stars

Monte Delle Vigne Lambrusco Emilia IGT 2007
Lot 136 08
Rich, inky purple with an abundance of deep red perlage that gradually settles -- it look sumptuous. The bouquet is powerful, with sandalwood and brambly red berry fruit that bring the Grasparossa Lambrusco varietal to mind (though the varietal used is Lambrusco Maestri), laced with airy spice. Quite nice, and invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and peppery notes from the sparkle, while the tannins have some sandalwood accents to them, and it flows into a clean fresh sandalwood finish with blackberry overtones that keep it from settling. I would have expected a little more richness of fruit on the palate from the nose, but this is a stylistic observation, not a comment on the quality of the wine, which is quite nice, and will drink very well with cold cuts, hearty pasta dishes of the Emilian tradition (in particular meat-based stuffed pasta, perhaps with the drippings from a roast), and quickly grilled meats. It will go quickly with the proper foods.
2 stars

Monte Delle Vigne Nabucco IGT Emilia Rosso 2006
Lot 57 08
This is a blend of Barnbera and Merlot, and is Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim, and has a powerful, fruit driven vinous bouquet with elegant currant and forest berry fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and bright, slightly brambly acidity -- the different varietals work together well, contributing to make a sum greater than the parts. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with rich black currant fruit that gains support from bright, almost cheeky acidity, and is supported by ample smooth bitter tannins that run a trail of graphite dust down the tongue, and flow into a clean rather brooding bitter finish. It's elegant, in a broad shouldered, clean fruit driven key, and will drink quite well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, and while the classic example would be thickly sliced medium-rare roast beef, I'd also be tempted to serve this with leg of lamb, or perhaps even with a hearty stew made from lean meats. Red, again; I think it would overpower most white meats. Though I tend to prefer traditional wines and blends, I found myself enjoying it, and think that in the proper setting it will go very fast.
2 stars

Bottom Line: Interesting wines from Collecchio! For more information, check Monte delle Vigne's Site

Tasted at Vinitaly: Sobrero e Figli Barbera D'Alba Superiore 2004

Barbera is a bright wine with lively fruit and crisp acidity, but isn't particularly tannic nor structured. Or at least it wasn't until the late Giacomo Bologna, one of the pioneers of the Italian wine renaissance, decided to put his Barbera into small oak barrels. What emerged -- smooth, rich, with elegant tannins from the barrels and its aggressiveness considerably smoothed -- caused a tremendous sensation and soon everyone was oaking their Barbera. Even many people who use large wood for everything else.

Alas, oak is a tool, and it's up to the winemaker to decided how to use it; many are heavy handed, and what went into the wood as a bright zesty fruit driven wine emerges at a distinct plod, with the fruit smoothed over and softened considerably, and though there is more structure, there's precious little (if any) acidity to provide direction, and as a result these heavily oaked wines feel remarkably settled.

Mr. Sobrero's 2004 La Pichetera Barbera D'Alba Superiore is oaked, but has emerged very much alive: Deep cherry ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with a nice balance between red berry fruit and oak supported by deft raspberry acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit directed by lively cherry acidity that's more intense than I expected from the nose, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. It will drink quite nicely with succulent roasts or stews, and is quite refreshing.
2 stars