Chianti Rufina and Cool Climate Pinot Noir from Ontario

This year the folks at the Chianti Rufina Consorzio once again asked Ian D'Agata to present their wines, and he once again proved himself to be a fine speaker with an excellent understanding of the appellation.

Chianti Rufina is a small area with a small number of wineries, and therefore is fairly uniform, much more so than the other Chianti areas, including Chianti Classico. With respect to the other Chianti zones it's the highest, with lively acidities, and, Ian says, a lighter textural feel in the mouth. I'm not sure that's universal, but taken as a group the Chianti Rufina wines do tend to revolve around finesse and elegance, with structures that are, yes, steely, but delicate rather than massive.

The comparison with Burgundy they held last year was a great success, so this year they thought to pair Chianti Rufina with another Pinot Noir, and suggested a selection of wines from Oregon; while Ian agreed that they were good he felt and Oregon's wines to be nice but not equivalent, rather with more fruit and more alcohol than Rufina. In terms of an equivalent, he suggested Pinot Noir from Ontario.

Ontario, towards the shore of Lake Ontario, is well suited to cool weather varietals such as Pinot Noir and Riesling, and Ian grew up tasting them; he said the first clones planted were so-so, and remembers the wines from the 70s as "hideous," but since then better clones have been planted and things have improved considerably. There are four appellations in Ontario: Niagara, Prince Edward County (where vines were first planted more than a century ago), Pelee Island, and Lake Eerie North Shore. The best, are Prince Edward County and Niagara, where they are now working to identify subappellations.

My impression of the comparison was the same I had last year, and I will quote it:

How do Rufina and Pinot Nero compare? Not particularly well. Pinot Noir revolves primarily around finesse; it's an essential wine that would be too much were one to add a jot, and not enough were one to remove one. In other words, it's a balancing act, suspended high above the ground. Sangiovese and its allies in Rufina work in a different direction, displaying finesse, but also power, and playing off a balance between fruit, acidity and tannin that is very different from what Pinot does, but not necessarily inferior. If one were to borrow from the musical world, Burgundy grabs an instrument and plays a solo (for some reason the clarinet comes to mind), whereas Rufina gathers a group of instruments and plays a concerto. Very different expressions, but both can be sublime.

We tasted Rufina wines from 2008, and Ontario wines from 2009. Two similar vintages, both cooler, and with more elegance than usual. 09 was a very good vintage for Ontario.

To begin, six Rufina wines from the 2008 vintage

Casa Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Deep cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, and spicy, with a fair amount of alcohol, cherry fruit, graphite shavings, bitterness, and dusky notes; there's nice depth, freshness and finesse. Young. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Considerable finesse, which predominates over power, and elegance. Quite pleasant to drink and will also age nicely for 8-10 years at least. Something to seek out if you like the style, which is not lush, nor overly polished and smooth. Despite the presence of 8% Cabernet Sauvignon it has a more traditional feel, with brambles in the tannins.
90-91

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Deep black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with cherry fruit supported by some bitterness, spice, slight greenish acidity, hints of dried mushroom, underbrush and sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied, and deft, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth slightly mineral acidity and polished smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish that's quite long, with some greenish vegetal accents. The Italian word that comes to mind is ruffiano, which means ingratiating -- it's very approachable, quite pleasant to drink, and if you are unfamiliar with Chianti Rufina and are coming from an international perspective provides a good introduction to it.
90

Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Lively almandine rim with almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, and brambly, with some berry fruit but more bramble, some heather, acidity that brings to mind a hot summer day, some spice, and as it opens hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and nicely combines smoothness with finesse, more polished than the Le Coste and as a result slightly more approachable.
90-91.

Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and dusky, with graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, some alcohol, and minerality more than fruit. Elegant in cool weather key, and as it opens some iodine emerges. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by bitter graphite shaving minerality and some spice, and by a fair amount of alcohol and sea salt. Nice balance in a more mineral key, and suggests cooler temperatures. Indeed, we were told it is from a higher part of the appellation. I liked it, though some tasters found it more mature than they wanted it to be.
2 stars

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intensely oaky, with cedary oaky sweetness mingled with spice and some berry fruit, though cedar overshadows all, allowing also some balsamic notes and some gum Arabic with underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderate fruit overshadowed by cedar in the tannins, and supported by minerality and duskiness more than acidity, flowing into a long cedar laced finish with underlying bitterness oak colors all and directs the wine. Not my style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

This vintage was difficult for them -- quite damp to begin with and the peronospora mold struck. Then temperatures jumped in Aug-September, and led to a degree of ripening that surprised them. Pale almandine ruby with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with berry fruit supported by sea salt and some savory notes, also by bramble and slight lathered horse and some balsamic notes. Pleasant in a rather distant, slightly rustic very traditional key,. On the palate it's deft, with bright berry fruit supported by some jammy accents I didn't expect, moderate acidity, and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish with some jammy notes from fruit. It's past the coming together phase but is very young, and is still tentative; with age it will be quite elegant in a lacy ethereal key, but it needs a few years to get there.
88-90

Six Canadian Wines from the 2009 Vintage

Malivoire Mottiar Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2009

Pale pinkish ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by minerality and sea salt with some underlying spice, and savory notes with hints of cumin. Quite graceful, though it does have a something about it -- not quite simplicity -- that suggests vine youth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky burr and savory notes, and slight greenish accents, and flows into a bright tannic sour berry fruit finish Quite elegant and a very fine expression of pinot noir. Very young vines, planted in 2005 and this is the second vintage.
88-90

Cave Spring Cellars Estate Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2009

Pale ruby, almost a dark rosé, and in this quite classic, with white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with cool savory berry fruit supported by dusky citric acidity and by brambly greenness with mint and balsam, some graphite shavings too. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by bitterness and sour brambly accents, and flow into a clean brambly finish Quite pleasant, and extremely elegant; it has a lot to say and will be much more interesting in a few years than it is now.
90-92

Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Twenty Mile Bench Pinot Noir 2009

Pale translucent brick ruby with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather wild, with bramble and sea salt supporting some fruit and citric acidity with strong underlying greenish accents and petroleum. Interesting, in a more demanding key, and more distant than the others. On the palate it's smoother than expected, with bitter petroleum laced berry fruit supported by tannins that have gunflint bitterness and flow into a bitter mineral finish with petroleum and fruit that lasts and lasts. We're not in Kansas any more, said Dorothy, and we're not in Rufina either. A world apart.
92

Flat Rock Cellars Bench Pinot Noir Reserve 2009

This is a selection of the barrels, the remainder goes into Gravity. Translucent brick ruby that's slightly darker than the other Flat Rock wine. The bouquet is deft, and more mineral, with spice and greenish accents supporting spice and some greenish vegetal acidity. Nice depth and elegance, a touch more restrained than the base wine, as if it were gathering its strength. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by considerable savory bitterness and spice, and by tannins that are smooth and have a rather bitter finish. It's more graceful than Gravity, and also has more spine, and with time may do more interesting things, but I found myself preferring Gravity's brash zestiness in some ways. It's a toss up, and which you will prefer depends upon your stylistic preference. Both are quite good, and it is very interesting to taste between them. The Reserve is more graceful, and displays more finesse.
93

Norman Hardie Prince Edward County Pinot Noir 2009

Pale translucent ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and red berry fruit supported by savory notes and some bitterness; it's a bit less acidic (though still acidic) than the Niagara wines but displays considerable grace. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by clean tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Very pleasant, showing considerable finesse, though you have to like high acidity wines to enjoy it.
90

Norman Hardie L Pinot Noir 2009

This is a blend of several Niagara and prince Edward fruit, made in the best years. A combination of the finesse of Prince Edward County and the richness of Niagara. Pale pink ruby with dusky black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory berry fruit supported by some balsamic notes, dusky acidity, some menthol, and some savory acidity as well laced with hints of cumin and wet bark. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish burr and slight splinter, and by pleasant greenish acidity that flows into a clean bright savory finish with brambly bitterness. Enjoyable, with considerable finesse, and will drink quite well with foods. Versatile too.
93-4

One thing to note about the Canadian wines is that they are all about 12% alcohol. The Italian wines tend to have more, and it would be nice to see them return to this level.

Two Older Wines

Castello del Trebbio Chianti Rufina Riserva 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks younger than 8. The bouquet is elegant, with berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and spice, some cherries, some alcohol, and slight sweetness as well. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky graphite shaving burr and flow into a clean fairly long bitter finish. Quite impressive, and graceful, with a great deal going on, though it is just entering maturity and has a long route ahead of it, is already very pleasant to drink. Extremely enjoyable.
92-3

Cave Spring Cellars Estate Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2002

Pale brick ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine paling to white in the rim. The bouquet is interesting, with a rich of white truffle and spice with some cheesy accents that bring formaggio di fossa to mind, mingled with savory notes and some spice; with time graphite shaving minerality also emerges. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by red currant acidity and some spice, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with some fossa notes. Pleasant, and after taking a sip the fruit becomes more apparent on the nose; it's graceful but a bit reserved, with less acidity than the younger wines and I don't think this is just greater age at work, but rather development of winemaking technique as well. Very nice however, and impressive, a wine one can converse with.
90-91

The Next Morning, November 12, We Returned to Taste Chianti Rufina

The wines are in the order the vintage wines (2010) were poured in.


Azienda Agricola Frascole

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is rich, with fresh cherry fruit, brambles, dusky bitterness, graphite shavings, some violets, and black pepper spice; it's quite fresh with nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish accents and fairly rich brambly acidity that flows into a clean spicy bitter tannic finish. Freshness and finesse in a glass, and worth seeking out.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense and quote mineral, with spicy minerality supporting rather dusky cherry fruit that has slight sweetish jammy accents, and a degree of alcohol that also contributes sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright strawberry laced berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and though it is still coming together, especially on the nose, it will go places, and display considerable finesse when it has arrived.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Il Prato

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some bramble and moderate berry fruit mingled with some greenish accents, slight green leather spice, and with time the bramble gains in intensity. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate berry fruit that has some sweetish accents, perhaps related to alcohol, and flows into a fairly sweet bramble laced finish. It has an oddly dilute feel to it, and some of the fullness may be alcohol. I'd have liked more fruit.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky graphite shaving bitterness and minerality more than fruit at present. On the palate it's light for a Riserva, with dusky moderately intense fairly savory berry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery burr that flows into lasting savory warmth. I'd have liked more depth and verve.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Travignoli

Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets mingled with dusky bitterness, some cherry fruit, slight jammy accents, and some wet paint. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather splintery, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly long warm splintery finish. It needs another year for the tannins to fold in, but is pleasant in a rather slender key, and made me think. I like that in a wine.
2 stars

Villa Travignoli Tegolaia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy plum cherry fruit supported by some iodine and graphite shaving bitterness, also some wood smoke. On the palate it's ample with moderate fruit supported by minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity, flowing into a fairly quick finish that settles into splintery tannins. It's fairly direct, and gives an impression of trying hard but I found the fruit to be somewhat lacking; in its defense it is very young and still coming together; it may do interesting things with time because there is a certain finesse to it. We shall see.
2 stars

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with camphor and cherry fruit supported by some gunflint bitterness, some acidity, and minerality. Brooding, On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish. Direct, and up front.
1 star

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spicy cherry fruit supported by minerality, some black pepper, a fair amount of alcohol, some spice, and greenish accents. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that are moderately intense, and flow into a clean slightly greenish strawberry finish. My initial impression was so-so, but it grew on me, and though it isn't long on complexity I found it enjoyable because of its freshness. Personal preference.
2 stars

Cantina Sociale VI.C.A.S

Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with prune cherry fruit supported by some metallic brambly accents and some spice. Wet tree bark too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with dusky bitter cherry fruit with sour cherry-red currant acidity, while the tannins are light and rather glancing. Pleasant in a lighter key, and a nice fresh food wine of the sort one can set out with the certainty that it won't fight the food; its acidity is enough for fried foods, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Cantine F.lli Bellini

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some berry fruit and moderate spice, but it's clearly still coming together. On the palate it's pleasant, in a light key, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by greenish brambly acidity and splintery tannins that flow into a warm splintery tannic finish. Expect it to go quickly. A Food Wine.
2 stars

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and iodine mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol, not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense with some cherry fruit supported by dusky sour cherry bitterness and a fair amount of alcohol, some sea salt, and tannins that are rather splintery. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more fruit to fill out the structure.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Dreolino

Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky with graphite shaving bitterness mingled with some cherry fruit and peppery spice. Displays some distance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately bright cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness and also by some brambly acidity, and flows into a dusky finish. Pleasant in a rather brooding mineral key.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Dreolino A Gino Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and some iodine supported by spice, sea salt and some berry fruit with a brambly underpinning. Scrappy. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by warmth and some dusky acidity, also tannins that are a touch blocky. I would have expected a little more; in its defense it is quite young and will with time become rather ethereal; it is more about finesse than power.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents, lactic acid, some red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly milky feel to them and moderate mineral acidity. It's still up on the air, needs time to come together and develop.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and smoky, with quite a bit of sea salt, some balsamic warmth, and slight lathered horse; it's more rustic than I have found wines from this winery to be in the past. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that is also rather balsamic, and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a clean balsam laced splintery finish. It's frankly traditional, something I hadn't encountered in Basciano before, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Fattoria di Grignano

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Lively cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight berry fruit -- still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively brambly cherry fruit supported by strawberry and red currant acidity, some spice, and by tannins that are rather splintery, with some savory accents, and flows into a splintery tannic finish. Scrappy, pleasant in lively aggressive key Will go quickly if you like style
2 stars

Fattoria Il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi

Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit, some cherries, spice, and graphite shavings. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour raspberry acidity with strawberry overtones, while the tannins are fairly light and smooth, with hints green leather, and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections paling in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cherry fruit supported bys some cedar and spice, and moderate sweetness that's also alcohol, with some underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and glancing, with some greenish brambly accents. Pleasant in a traditional key, and displays a degree of finesse that will likely increase with time. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Lago

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black almandine with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky berry fruit laced with graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, slight laundry soap, greenish notes, and hints sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by leathery accents and some underbrush; the acidity is warm and mineral, and there is some spice, while the tannins are dusky with some bitterness and some underbrush to them that brings wet bark to mind. Finish fairly long. Will develop ethereally.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Pale cherry with some orange in the rim; it's surprisingly light for a Riserva.. The bouquet I unusual, with paint thinner -- for want of a better descriptor -- mingled with cherry fruit. Odd. The palate is warm with greenish berry fruit that is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that become surprisingly green with candied accents. A fellow taster mutters about grape juice, and whatever one says, it's not what I expect from a Chianti Rufina Riserva; the aromas and the fruit are going in different directions.
No star

Fattoria Lavacchio

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish acidity and bouquet tannins that are fairly strong with a bright youthful burr; it's very young but has nice balance in a solid muscular key and will also age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar, nice depth and expression in a slightly dusky international key. On the palate it's full and oakier oaky, with berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and some spice that flows into a chocolate and cocoa laced finish. It's the oakiest of the wines presented, but with respect to past vintages shows some restraint, enough that the fruit emerges, and if you like the style, it will do interesting things in a frankly modern key with time. Give the oak a year or two to fold in, however.
2 stars

Marchesi Gondi - Tenuta Bossi

Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some greenish brambles, slight leaf tobacco and some minerality. Elegant in traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with bright strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly rich flowing into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well.
2 stars

Marchesi Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with violets and red berry fruit that are surprisingly fresh for a Riserva, supported by spice and some delicate slightly mentholated acidity. Interesting and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish with berry fruit underpinning. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will with time display considerable finesse and elegance -- it has the latter down already, though it will increase, and is working on the former.
88-90

Colognole

Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Elegant deep slightly orange cherry with some almandine in rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by green leather and spice, and also by considerable bramble; it's quite elegant in an austere key. On the palate it's full and smooth with dusky sour cherry fruit supported by considerable bitterness and sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that have a warm dusky burr with some cedar bitterness, and flow into considerable warmth. Very young but pleasant, and will do quite interesting things with time.
2 stars

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young but elegant in a fruit driven key. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly splintery sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and splintery and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish Quite pleasant, and though it needs another couple of years to come together, and will display considerable finesse when the various components have fully melded.
2 stars

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Vigneto Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending overtones orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit mingled with greenish spice and some hints of paint thinner, and also a dusky cedary underpinning. On the palate it's ample, with warm sour cherry fruit that has some greenish acidity and is supported by tannins with a greenish cedary overlay, and flow into a fairly long clean rather green finish with lasting warmth. It needs a couple of years to come together, and it will be worth waiting for, in a rather ingratiating key when it arrives. The style is fairly international, though it does also have the acidity and tannic structure typical of Rufina.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by sea salt, sour berry fruit, and some rather cheeky warmth; it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with deft strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and a fair amount of warmth, while there is also alcohol that confers some sweetness, and flows into a long warm strawberry finish. It needs time, a couple of years at least, because it's still coming together now, and will be something to think about if you like the style, which is fairly traditional.
2 stars

Fattoria I Veroni

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with brambly berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, and also by mentholated acidity; it's deft and rather graceful. On the palate it's fairly rich, with strawberry cherry fruit supported by mentholated acidity and tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean bright slight greenish strawberry cherry finish. Bright, and pleasant, in an unassuming direct key.
1 star

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Cherry almandine with black reflections and some almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with berry fruit supported by leather, some spice, alcohol and slight iodine; the effect is brooding. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh strawberry laced berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean strawberry laced finish with some underlying bitterness. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere il Pozzo

Podere il Pozzo Vigna Vecchia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with floral accents mingled with vanilla and supported by ripe berry fruit and some peppery spice; nice depth and elegance in a fairly modern key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and slight sweetish jammy accents and slight greenish notes, while the tannins are warm and still quite young, with a blockiness that will fade with time as the wine ages and the tannins smooth. I'd give it 3-5 years and expect it to age well for at least 10 years, perhaps more.
2 stars

Sangiovese Incontra Sangiovese: A meeting of Sangiovese Toscano and Sangiovese di Romagna

Mention Sangiovese and most wine lovers will think of Tuscany -- Sangiovese is after all the backbone of Tuscany's best known wines, including Chianti in its many guises, Brunello di Montalcino and Nobile di Montepulciano, as well as a host of lesser known (but not necessarily inferior) Tuscan wines including Carmignano, Morellino di Scansano, and Montecucco.

There is however another side to Sangiovese, and that is Sangiovese di Romagna: the wine is made grape in the valleys of the Appennini from eastern border of the Province of Bologna all the way to Rimini, where the vineyards overlook the sea. A great many wine lovers tend to look down their noses at this Sangiovese because they associate it with cooperatives that in the past were much, much more interested in cranking out quantity than quality, but what they don't know is that while the cooperatives were cranking out their volume, others were farming to considerably smaller yields, and their Sangiovese di Romagna was being selected for state banquets -- both Ronald Regan and Bill Clinton enjoyed it.

In short, quality Sangiovese di Romagna has a long history.

And Sangiovese di Romagna is associated with Tuscany in another way too: following the devastation brought by the phylloxera bug more than a century ago Angelo Sansoni, a Romagnan innestatore (grafter) known as Esciop, the gun, because of the quickness of his hands, replanted vineyard after vineyard in Romagna, and also worked extensively in both Chianti Rufina and Chianti Classico, planting cartload after cartload of Sangiovese vines he brought with him from Romagna.

This was of course several generations ago and by now has faded from memory. However, if the vines gave good results they, or cuttings propagated from them, are still there. In short, the pedigree of some of the finest Tuscan Sangiovese vines may not be as Tuscan as we think it is. Not that this means much; Sangiovese as a varietal is extremely sensitive to terroir, giving very different results in different settings, and what is growing well in Tuscany is doing justice to its terror.

We began with 6 Tuscan wines

Bibi Graetz Testamatta Rosso Toscana IGT 2007
From Fiesole
This is barrel fermented in upright barriques whose tops were removed. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and slight almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brash cherry fruit supported by some cedar and bright greenish accents, some graphite shavings bitterness, and as it opens licorice root On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and a fair amount of cedar, with some savory underpinning. Quite concentrated, and quite international in style. If you like the style you will enjoy it, considerably, but you have to like the international style. Very young yet.
2 stars

Savignola Paolina Chainti Classico DOCG Riserva 2007
From Greve in Chianti
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more brings up strawberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by some greenish heather and cut field in the summer, supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity some sourness with as it opens old leather. . On the palate it's bright, and deft, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are slightly brambly, and have a slight burr, flowing into a clean slightly bitter cedar laced finish. Pleasant, in a bright traditional key, and a very fine food wine that will work wonders with a steak or roast. It will age nicely 3-6 years.
2 stars

Villa Vignamaggio Chianti Classico DOCG 2007
From Greve in Chianti
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with licorice root and spice, also some menthol, slight carob, and some licorice root. Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by deft slightly mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, though they do gain definition from a slight burr, and flow into a clean bright brambly finish with some greenish vegetal accents. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with foods; it is also fairly young, and will age well for at least 5-8 years.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Fabrizio Bianchi Sangiovese Rosso Toscana IGT 2006
From Barberino Val D'Elsa
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly notes and fairly intense savory accents, and also slight animal tang; it's interesting and pleasingly savory in a decidedly traditional slightly rustic key. Pleasant. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory notes and sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long slightly jammy sour cherry finish. Very pleasant, more on the palate than the nose, which is nice but a little less interesting. In its defense it is young, and this reticence is a characteristic of the vintage; it has great potential and if the nose follows the palate (as I expect it to) it will do great things, and age for 15-20 years.
90

Castello di Querceto La Corte Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT 2006
From Greve in Chianti
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some spice, and also bramble with slight animal tang and underlying balsamic accents. Interesting in a pleasingly traditional key, though there is also some cedar to it. On the palate it's powerful, with rich cherry fruit supported by savory tannins that have a cedar laced underpinning, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish with a fair amount of cedar. It's powerful, and displays more cedar than I expected on the palate; the wine is fairly strongly oaked and a bit astringent, and this is a characteristic of the 2006 vintage in some wines. It has potential but needs time, 3-5 years, for the tannins to fold in and absorb the oak.
2 stars

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG Riserva Bucerchiale 1996
From Rufina
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft and savory, with tamarind laced sour berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and some leaf tobacco, also brambles and warmth. Quite pleasant and beautifully mature. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by savory accents and sea salt, and tannins that have a slight balsamic burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with a pleasant mineral underpinning. Very nice, and stands apart from all the other wines thanks to its age; time has been very good to it and it's one of those wines one meets with occasionally, and treasures when one does.
93

Next, wines from Romagna:

Romandiola Sangiovese di Romagna DOC 2010
From Coriano
The only wine of the tasting from a cooperative. Cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with berry fruit and brambly accents, spice, some greenish notes, heather, some spice. Fresh. On the palate it's fairly bright, with graphite laced berry fruit supported by savory notes, some slightly cedary tannins, and a fairly savory finish with slight minerality. A classic food wine of the sort one sets out and drinks, and that will go quickly. Simple, direct, and up front. The sort of wine one can drink by the bucket. Distinct from all the others in terms of lively freshness and youth.
2 stars

Villa Venti Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Superiore Primo Segno 2008
From Roncofreddo
All in steel, no wood. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather balsamic with savory accents, spice, some sour berry fruit and some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with fairly bright rather languid cherry fruit supported by dusky graphite laced tannins that flo9w into a clean bright rather mineral finish. Quite pleasant, and graceful in a slightly brooding dusky key, and will also age nicely. More mineral than acidity supporting it, and it is impressive.
2 stars

Podere la Berta Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Riserva Olmatello 2008
From Brisighella
Podere la Berta has recently been purchased by the folks who also own Felsina, the Chianti estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, and is overseen by Bernabei, who bottled this wine, which was made by the previous owners. Deep black almandine with black reflections, the bouquet is powerful and quite international, with rich vanilla and spice supporting menthol and hints of vics vapo-rub (sp?), and some savory notes. A lot of oak. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory cedar laced tannins and some sour cherry acidity, which flows into a long cedar laced finish. It's well made and clean but heavily oaked, and you have to like the style or it won't work for you. very long finish, slowly fades to savory notes.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Gallegati Sangiovese di Romagna DOC Superiore Riserva Corallo Nero 2006
From Faenza
This is from clayey soils; it was fermented in steel, and then 14 spent months in wood. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky black cherry aromas mingled with some cedar and some savory graphite shaving minerality with a fair amount of menthol and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slightly greenish, with a pleasant burr and flow into a clean bright finish. Scrappy, and while it isn't a wine you will want to drink far from the table unless you are a lover of the style, it will work very well with foods, and in that context go surprisingly fast.
88-90

Tenuta Pertinello Colli di Romagna Centrale Sangiovese DOC Pertinello 2008
From Galeata
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some heather, also menthol and spice, and quite a bit of acidity that gives it considerable zest. On the palate it's ample, and quite smooth, with deft sour cherry fruit supported by clean bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth and though they do have a slight greenish burr, are nicely defined and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with some brambly accents. It's quite deft, displaying considerable finesse, and is very pleasant to drink.
90

Castelluccio Ronco dei Ciliegi Rosso Forlì IGT 2007
From Modigliana
Castelluccio was established in the late 70s by Gianvittorio Baldi, a Roman film director whose family was from Modigliana. He was blessed with the vision to want to do something unprecedented with Sangiovese di Romagna, and the genius to know he couldn't do it himself, and therefore hired Remigio Bordini to be his agronomist, and Vittorio Fiore, who has since purchased the property, to make the wines. Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and some cedar, with some mineral acidity and by some sour berry fruit acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by rather languid slightly bitter tannins that have wet leaf undertones, and by acidity that's more mineral than citric, and by moderate acidity, flowing into a rather bitter graphite shaving bitterness finish. Pleasant, in a rather different key -- it stands out from the others, in terms of minerality and wet leaves -- and will both age nicely and drink well in the short term with steaks or roasts. It's still climbing.
88-90

That's it. My impressions?

A number of colleagues remarked that the Romagnan wines showed quite well, and I wasn't surprised. By comparison with their Tuscan cousins they were for the most part lighter and slightly more agile, with acidities that were a little livelier. The Tuscan wines were instead more polished, with a touch more tannic structure, and a little bigger. They were all good.

It is important to note this was a partial tasting -- the Romagnan wines were carefully selected, and just a few parts of Tuscany were represented -- but it clearly showed that great wines can come from either region, and that wine lovers who are not familiar with the wines of Romagna have many exciting discoveries to make.

Brezza's Barolo Bricco Sarmassa: A Comparison Between Cork And Glass Stoppers

In much of the rest of the world non-cork closures for wine bottles have become quite normal, and are also used for top quality wines. In Italy there is pressure in this direction, but the Appellations and restaurants are less enthusiastic, as I noted in an IGP article I wrote after tasting Salcheto's Salcheto Evoluzione, their top wine, which was released this year as both Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, with a cork, and IGT, with a screw cap.

The wine spent four years in bottle prior to release, and in that case I preferred the screw cap to the cork.

At Brezza they are also experimenting with alternative closures, glass stoppers in which the seal is provided by a ring of inert silica, and Enzo was pouring three vintages during Nebbiolo Prima: the 2005, 2004, and 2003. Three very different vintages; 2005 was cool and wet, yielding wines that are greener and more acidic than is the norm, 2004 was very good, and 2003 was one of the hottest in living memory, yielding wines that are quite ripe and tend to be fairly soft.

To be honest, since I was struck by the freshness of the Salco Evoluzione with a screw cap, I expected to like the wine from bottles with glass stoppers better than that from bottles with corks, but it wasn't that easy. I tasted the wines, in pairs, blind.

2005

1: Brezza Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2005 -- Cork
Pale fairly bright almandine with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich green leather and leaf tobacco supporting somewhat greenish accents and some berry fruit. The bouquet is slightly better defined than that of number 2. On the palate it's bright, with rich fresh berry fruit supported by lively slightly greenish berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a pleasant warmth to them, and also some greenish spicy notes, and flow into a clean fresh fairly rich savory finish. Nice definition and depth, and quite upstanding; it has a bracing freshness to it, and also displays greater finesse than 2, with a crispness of focus that 2 doesn't quite manage.
90-91

2: Brezza Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2005 -- Glass
Slightly duskier almandine with a bit more brick to it, and almandine rim. A touch darker, and not as bright. The bouquet is not as rich as 1; it's a touch muted, and has delicate greenish accents mingled with spice and slight jammy notes. It's not quite as fresh as number 1, though the difference is slight. On the palate it's ample and rich, and a bit broader than 1, with fairly rich fruit that's supported by acidity that's not quite as bright, and by tannins that are smooth and do have a savory burr, and flow into a fairly long broad finish with marked savory underpinning. Very pleasant, and though still quite young is a wine one could drink now.
88-90

2004

1: Brezza Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2004 -- Glass
Elegant ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, and elegant, with rather languid sour cherry fruit laced with rosa canina and leaf tobacco; it's richer and more complex than either of the 2005 wines, and also displays considerable and pleasing freshness, with some rather languid accents as well. A lot going on. On the palate it's bright, with rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slight splinteriness to them that is youth, but also a degree of steeliness and presage velvet. It's very young, but beginning to come into its own, though to really reach that point it needs a few more years. In a word, impressive.
91-2 glass

2: Brezza Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2004 -- Cork
Elegant ruby with deep black reflections; it's very similar to 1, but 1 has a touch more almandine in the nail. Fresh, bright nose with fairly intense herbal notes, sage, hints rosemary, and steelyness, also sour berry fruit, some black pepper, and as it opens rosa canina and sea salt with some underlying iodine bitterness too. Quite harmonious, and by comparison with number one is a little more intense and perhaps more linear, with greater definition. Number one is instead more dispersed, for want of a better descriptor -- going in more directions at once. On the palate this is a touch more linear than number 1, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are a little softer and smoother, and by pleasing savoryness as well, which flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish with a tannic savory underpinning. The two are very similar, but there is perhaps a touch more complexity to 1 -- an impression that may be just because it's not quite as tight, and therefore reveals more facets -- and a touch more finesse to 2.
91

2003

1: Brezza Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2003 -- Cork
Elegant almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit and wood smoke mingled with green leather and bitter accents that bring dusky shadows to mind. It has a brooding quality to it, and also reveals a degree of heat. It feels blocky, somehow. On the palate it's full and rich, with ripe rather soft sour cherry fruit that has slight jammy accents and warmth, but isn't at all cooked -- something that was a problem for many in 2003 -- and is supported by fairly deft berry fruit acidity -- less than the 04, but there is enough for good direction -- and smooth tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into an ample fairly soft tannic finish with a pleasant berry fruit underpinning
84

2: Barolo Bricco Sarmassa 2003 -- Glass
Elegant almandine with black reflections and some almandine in rim; by comparison number 1 has just a hint more orange. The bouquet is fresh, and very clean, with a degree of linearity to it, and clean berry fruit supported by spice and slight leaf tobacco; it displays a pleasing deftness and freshness to it, and doesn't have the shadowy bitterness that emerges from number 1. On the palate it's fll and rich, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense fairly bright greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a slight savory burr, and flow into a fairly long greenish sour berry fruit finish. By comparison with number 1 it is fresher and better defined, and also gives an impression of being cleaner. This is a question of degrees; I would have found number 1 impressive (considering the vintage) had I not also tasted number 2, which goes much, much further.
91-2

The bottom line is that, barring cork problems (of which see below) the differences between the wines with cork stoppers and those with glass stoppers are minimal, subtleties that one detects because one knows that the closures are different, and sets out to find them.

Were one pouring from both bottles in the course of a dinner, and drinking the wines with foods, rather than scrutinizing them while sitting at a table in a quiet room, one would likely not note the differences between the wines from the first two vintages (2005 and 2004), and this is a good thing, because as Enzo notes, the world's supply of good quality cooks is finite, and finding top quality corks is becoming steadily more expensive and more difficult.

The fact that alternative closures do give results as good as these after several years offers assurances for the future.

In the 2003 vintage there was a much more marked difference, because the cork hadn't held as well as it should have. Enzo, who drinks the wine often, said the one that had been closed with a cork was dead, and while I wasn't that drastic it did show poorly by comparison with the wine that had been in the bottle with the glass stopper.

The final analysis shows (once again) that alternative stoppers do offer a viable alternative to cork. They may not contribute the way top quality corks can to a top quality wine, but, at least short-medium term intervals they will do no harm, and this -- as I have said before -- makes them ideal for wines destined to be drunk soon after bottling, which are the vast majority of wines on the market. For longer term aging the jury is still out, but so far the results are promising.

Brezza is a very fine, very traditional -- while I was tasting Enzo's father was serving some clients, and when one of them asked if he had any barriqued wines, sputtered mightily -- winery in Barolo. In addition to making wine they have a hotel and restaurant, that would be a nice base for exploring this part of the Langhe.

For more information, check their site.