Thursday, June 28, 2012

Garantito IGP: I Balmetti di Borgofranco




This time I take the Stand:

If you drive north from Torino towards the Valle D'Aosta, you'll find yourself following the valley now occupied by the Dora Baltea. It wasn't carved by the river, however -- it's glacial in origin, and shortly after Ivrea you'll come to something unique, so far as I know: Borgofranco D'Ivrea's Balmetti.

Balmetti are houses with cellars built into the glacial moraine along the line where the mountains jut up from the flat valley floor, and what makes them unique are ore (singular ora), fissures in the moraines that emit steady streams of cold air. And I do mean cold; they're 8 degrees C (45 F) in summer, and a little more in winter. In short, the people of the town have naturally refrigerated cellers, and they're fascinating, as is the story behind them.

Borgofranco has existed at least since the 1200s, and the town proper is located a ways out on the valley floor. People must have known about the cold air issuing from the fissures along the valley wall, but don't appear to have thought about putting it to use until the 1600s, when the first balmetti were built, and used primarily to store wine.

It wasn't until the early 1800s, however, that the townspeople decided to exploit the resource in earnest, building an uninterrupted street of balmetti along the valley wall (if you walk down the street, you see a row of low houses built back into the mountain), and it would appear that the decision stemmed at least in part from changing customs:

Historically, an organization called the Badia had handled popular festivals and fairs (especially Carnevale) in Borgofranco. However, it declined in popularity in the mid-1800s, during which time two things were happening: First, the breath of cultural fresh air associated with the brief establishment of the Napoleonic government had led to new ideas about how to celebrate Carnival and otherwise make merry; Second, the Church, reacting to the innovations, had clamped down. Put simply, those who wanted to have a good time decided to do so out of town, where churchly-inspired moralists would neither see nor comment, and built the Balmetti as a sort of party row, as it were. Even the street names reflect the area's destination: Via del Buonamore, Via di Bacco, and Via della Coppa, respectively the Street of Good Love, Bacchus's Way, and The Cup's Way.

Of course once the balmetti were built, they were also put to other uses, including storage -- primarily grapes and wine -- and industry, though one that fits perfectly with the purpose of the street: In about 1900 the Degiacomini family, brewmasters from Sondrio, built a brewery, using the cool air from the ore to regulate fermentation temperatures. It has since gone out of business (there is talk of readapting the structure), but you can visit the balmetti -- there are about 200 of them, kept cool by close to 300 vents, and the local tourist office has set up a small museum in one of the nicest ones, while its offices are in the second story of the building.

The old brewery
In addition to the concentration of balmetti on these streets there are several individual balmetti built into the valley wall just a little further up the valley. When should you think about visiting? The balmetti are central to three celebrations: Carnevale, in February (when you could stop during a ski trip), in June, when there's the Andoma ai Balmit (Let's go the the Balmetti) festival, a very convivial open house, and in September, at the harvest. Italy has many unusual treats, and this is one of them.

Getting there: Borgofranco is just north of Ivrea. Exit the A 5 highway at Quincinetto, and turn right towards Settimo Vittone. The balmetti are in a hamlet called Quinto. For further information, contact the Pro Loco, through the town's site.


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Friday, June 22, 2012

La Bruciata: Moscato & More




A couple of years ago Oscar Bosio, who is best known for his Moscato, contacted me via Facebook and asked me to stop at his stand at Vinitaly. I did, for what I thought would be a quick stop, only to discover he makes all sorts of wines, all worth thinking about. This year I didn't make it to his stand, and he kindly sent samples to me.

La Bruciata Langhe Arneis DOC 2011
Lot AR04.12
Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with pleasant citrus, a mixture of citron and tangerine, mingled with some minerality and underlying slightly mentholated heather, all supported by sea salt. On the palate it's bright, with lively mineral laced brambly citrus that reveals heathery vegetal accents as it flows into the finish, which is long. It's quite refreshing, with considerable backbone, and will work very well with summer foods, including fried fish or meats, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 2-3 years; while its freshness now is nice if I had a case I'd set a couple of bottles aside, because they could provide a pleasant surprise.
90-91

La Bruciata Langhe Chardonnay DOC 2011
Lot CH 04.12
Pale brassy green with brilliant greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rather lemony, with some underlying sea salt and slight crisp green apple, and an underpinning of heather from a cut field in summer. On the palate it's softer than the Arneis, with rather languid lemony pineapple laced fruit supported by bright acidity and slight minerality that flows into a fairly long tart finish that gradually releases fairly acidic Delicious apple notes. It's a wine that will work nicely as an aperitif or with more delicate dishes -- I wouldn't serve it with fried meats or fish -- and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

La Bruciata Aivè Vino Bianco
Lot 2.10
An aivé is the opposite of a Sorì, in other words a north-facing slope, and this is a Moscato from north-facing slopes, bottled still. Because it's still -- the rules governing the appellations don't foresee a still dry Moscato -- it's a table wine, and therefore doesn't have a vintage, but from the lot number we can deduce that it's a 2010. Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights; white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sugary Moscato notes mingled with menthol and heather, and rather voluptuous yellow peach, while there's also a slight counterpoint of sweaty blonde that adds complexity and depth. Particular. On the palate it's  crisp and bright, with considerable minerality supported by mineral acidity that has slight heather notes as well, and flows into a long mineral finish. It's quite tight, and much brasher than the Chardonnay, and to my way of thinking better defined, but you have to like tarter defter wines to enjoy it. If you do you will, and it is quite distinct from the more common International varietal wines..
88-90

La Bruciata Moscato D'Asti DOCG 2011
Lot MO 10 11
Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine abundant perlage, quite a bit for a Moscato. The bouquet is rich, but not overly sweet, with some honeydew melon  and slight heather supported by the sweetness that honeydew melon  can have. Quick to write but harmonious. On the palate it's full and sweet, with elegant honeydew melon  fruit that has enough acidity to keep from being cloying, and creamy fullness from the sparkle, which is quite soft, and it all flows into a fairly long honeydew melon  laced finish. Quite pleasant, and will be perfect at poolside on a hot day, or with frieds outside as the sky darkens and the stars come out. A good Moscato can be a great delight, and this one is.
90-91

La Bruciata Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2011
Lot DO 04.12
Lively slightly purple cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is classic Dolcetto, with a mixture of red berry fruit and bitter almonds supported by some greenish brambly accents. Zesty. On the palate it's light-medium bodied, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and quite a bit of sea salt, while the tannins are dusky and bitter, and have a nice bite to them. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it will work very well with simple grilled meats, for example burgers or ribs or chicken (the latter seasoned with herbs, not sweet sauces). It's one of those wines that will go very fast in the proper setting, and you will need a second bottle.
2 stars


La Bruciata Barbera D'Alba DOC 2010
Lot BA 04.11
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is warm, and fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by brambly strawberry acidity and by some mineral notes that have a touch of struck granite to them, and that gain in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's medium bodied, with decidedly brambly fruit supported by considerable sea salt and some balsamic savory accents, coupled with fairly bright mineral acidity and tannins that have a slight burr to them. It's rather old style, especially in the balsamic cast, and if you are looking for ripe red fruit, and smooth softness, it's not going to work for you. If you instead like scrappier wines with a bit of bite to them, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and go quickly.
2 stars


For more information, check La Bruciata's Site.

Thursday, June 21, 2012

Garantito IGP - Ristorante Dopolavoro La Foce






This time Stefano Tasi takes the Stand

Light. Large windows. Old photos, almost all B&W. Brick bar. Benedetta Origo and her daughter Katia seem to have chosen a minimalist style for La Foce, the new restaurant of the historic Valdorcia estate. The one, so we know what we're talking about, with the famed winding cypress-lined road immortalized in all the guides to Tuscany, of the monumental formal gardens, and of the "Incontri in Terra di Siena" Festival (the program for 2012), a refined event that brings the world's most prestigious performers of chamber music to the Sienese hills. Thinking it over, however, the style is more warm and homey; it will inevitably bring back memories of the past to those who have lived in the country.

The restaurant is indeed located in a former rural dopolavoro, or social club where farmers met after work, a structure Benedetta's parents, Antonio and Iris Origo built for the tenant farmers within the framework of an illuminated design that, during the 20s and 30s, led the couple to transform a remote property into a model estate, surrounded by an extraordinary series of gardens designed by the English architect Cecil Pinsent, the man also behind the I Tatti, Florentine villa of Bernard Brenson. And where, during the war, refugees and the families of prisoners of war were welcomed, as Iris says in her narrative, "Guerra in Valdorcia"

Wars are no longer fought with cannons, but with economies, and though there are no longer bombs agriculture still suffers. And is saved, for now, by turism and the beautiful landscapes that attract visitors.

Hence the owner's decision to open a restaurant, which also provides an outlet for the estate's olive oil and the produce from the vegetable patch.

The challenge wasn't as easy as one might have thought.

Tuscany has hundreds of restaurants with traditional menus, including many specialized in "peasant food." Rhetoric lurks around the corner. And the quality of the ingredients is more of a starting point than the end-all for a top-notch restaurant whose prices reflect its position (the average cost is 50 Euros plus wines).

Another courageous decision, to put everything in the hands of a single chef like Paolo Anelli, a cook who has done many things in Rome /from Os Club to Gusto, from L'Antico Arco to the Michelin-starred Il Convivio di Troiani, with Chef Angelo Troiani), who here is called to measure himself with a clientele awaiting discovery whose expectations are not yet known.

Finally, our gastronomic experience was quite positive, thanks to a series of absolutely authentic flavorsand a manu that deftly weaves well known and loved dishes with some less orthodox ideas.

Very good, for example, the Crunchy Handkerchief of Pasta brick (how pasta brick is made) with fava beans, chicory, and leek cream, which is delicate and not overpowering. Good, though less original (at least for my tuscan palaye) is the chickpea zuppa with potatoes, crostini, and marjoram-laced olive oil. Excellent are the tagliolini with asparagus carbonara, and the close, a crumble with green apples, honey and vanilla sauce was also nice. Excellent, of course, the olive oil, cold cuts, and home-made bread.

I've saved the dish I liked the most and was perplexed the most by for last: crunchy meatballs from boiled beef, with green sauce and polenta crostini. Excellent, but that didn't convince me for philosophical reasons: meatballs of this sort, made from flavorful meats that are very lean and very dry, are the "logical" opposite of a dish based on leftovers such as meatballs, which generally employ trimmings and fat. And then there were fegatelli, absolutely traditional Tuscan fegatelli. Of which I can only say one thing: the best I've ever had (and this from someone who generally doesn't like liver). The one problem? They weren't on the menu.

The wine list has about a hundred wines, a mixture of renowned anmes and local treasures, with a clear Tuscan predominance in the reds, and as an aside craft beers from Cauilier.

Last thing: There's a path from the restaurant to the gardens of the villa, which can be visited upon request. If you're already there, it would be foolish not to see them.

Ristorante Dopolavoro La Foce
Strada della Vittoria 90, Località La Foce (SI)
Tel: 0578 754 025
http://www.dopolavorolafoce.it

Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Friday, June 15, 2012

Benvenuto Brunello 2007!







This year the folks in Montalcino presented the 2007 vintage of Brunello. It's an interesting vintage; in Chianti I enjoyed the vini d'annata, which were rather scrappy, but found the Riserve on the whole less convincing -- that lively scrappy brambly character of the young wines didn't carry over well into the more structured, refined character one expects of a Riserva -- and was therefore quite curious about the 2007 Brunello, especially considering the tremendous rather brooding potential of the 2006, which, at its presentation last year, was one of the least ready vintages I remember.

How would the 2007 Brunello present? Well, actually; it's not at the level of the 2006, but does display elegance and grace, and a certain richness, while the general cast that I noted in the 2007 Chianti Classico does come through -- the 2007 Bunelli have a certain suppleness to them, and while not thin are not really concentrated either, and also as a group have bitter accents that emerge in the finish. 

I also found them by comparison with the 2006 wines much readier to drink, and since there were a number that impressed me quite favorably, they will offer a pleasant option while we wait for the 2006 to come into its own, a task that could take a decade or more.

The tasting, like last year's was held in the cloisters of the town museum, a very nice setting that was quiet and easy to work in, while the winemaker's area was much more accessible than it was last year.

Before we get to the wines, a last thing: tastings of this kind are useful for everyone, and especially for wine writers who have to travel considerable distances to taste the wines, because when they arrive they (ideally) find everything in one place. Unfortunately there were a few gaps in the coverage. That Gianfranco Soldera should choose not to present Case Basse is not much of a surprise; it is after all a very particular cult wine, and one that people either absolutely love or find undrinkable -- there's very little middle ground -- and if one couples this with the character of the man, its presence would have been more of a surprise. I found the absence of Casanova di Neri, which is a consistent darling of a certain segment of the wine press, more vexing. They have enjoyed great success thanks to the coverage their wines have enjoyed, and unless something went drastically wrong in their cellars, should have been there.

There were other gaps, some significant -- Pian Dell'Orino, whose recent vintages have attracted considerable attention from traditionalists, was absent -- and others less so. And one that took me completely by surprise: Marchesi de'Frescobaldi. Castelgiocondo is one of the more widely distributed Brunellos enjoying considerable popularity abroad too, and in the recent past the estate had also presented Brunello Luce, again to great acclaim from certain sectors of the wine press. This year neither was poured, and their absence seemed odd.

The final absence is sadder: Poggio Di Sotto's Piero Palmucci was one of the first winemakers I visited in Montalcino, in the course of a jaunt with an American wine-importing friend many years ago, and his wines made a terrific impression upon me, one that was confirmed every subsequent time I tasted them. Alas, he has sold the winery, for personal reasons I was told. I wish him well. 

The 2007 Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG, in the order I tasted the wines on February 24 and 25 2012


Donna Olga 
Sant'Antimo, blocking the stars

Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with languid slightly leathery red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and considerable minerality. On the palate it's ample, with fairly fright sour cherry fruit supported by warm rather bitter tannins that flow into a fairly long greenish berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and quite young, and muscular too; it will age nicely for many years, becoming more ethereal with time.
2 stars

Donna Olga Favorito Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with savory spice and some red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents; it's still coming together. On the palate it's full with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tarter berry fruit acidity than the base, and by tannins that are ample and have a slight splintery burr, flowing into a rather bitter slightly greenish finish. It needs time, but will be graceful.
2 stars

Argiano 

Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively brambly cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of vegetal acidity and some pungent notes with underlying cedar. On the palate it's full and harmonious, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are ample and smooth, working towards silk. It's quite young, and the fruit is a touch dusky, but it promises nicely, and will become graceful with age.
2 stars

Argiano L'Orciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; slightly darker than the Base. The bouquet is deft, with elegant dried roses mingled with berry fruit and some spice, and underlying hints of leaf tobacco. Pleasant to sniff, with quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and though one could drink it now it will also age nicely for a decade or more, and reward those with patience.
88-90

Banfi

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by some dusky cedar and pleasing underlying spice; and as it opens some spicy greenish accents. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit and cherry supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky cedary burr and flow into a rather tannic finish with some underlying greenish acidity. It's fairly direct, in a softer key, with some hints of old wood to the tannins, and needs another year for the tannins to fold in and smooth.
2 stars

Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deeper black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite young, with dusky greenish accents mingled with leaf tobacco and some berry fruit; there's also some pencil shavings and fairly intense bitterness.. Quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's full, with languid cherry fruit supported by slightly savory minerality more than acidity with some savory notes, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's pleasant in a slightly brooding key, and though it does drink nicely I found myself wishing for a little more acidity. If you like brasher wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Banfi Poggio all'Oro Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by warm slightly greenish acidity and warmth, with hints of cypress that bring to mind  the sacristy of a church out in the Tuscan countryside, and some pleasant spice. On the palate it's bright, with ripe cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a dry fairly splintery finish. It's pleasant, but very young, and needs time, 3-5 years, for the tannins to smooth and fold in. At which point it will be graceful and elegant.
2 stars

Barbi

Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by some leathery accents and sea salt, with slight berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's full, with sour cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly silky, though they have some blockiness to them. It's direct for a Brunello, but clean, and will drink nicely with foods.
1 star

Brunelli

Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with brooding jammy berry fruit supported by some greenish spice and warm berry fruit and wild strawberry acidity; it's fairly graceful but needs time to develop further. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tart strawberry acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and lead into a bright sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Very much alive, and while one could drink it with a steak now, it will age nicely and be much more interesting in 3-5 years.
2 stars

Canalicchio di Sopra 

Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some underlying peppery spice. Pleasant in a zesty key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are rather blocky, with a fair amount of cedar, and need time to fold in. Time it will be well worth giving them; the wine is quite pleasant and will drink very well with red meats when it has come together.
2 stars

Capanne Ricci  

Capanne Ricci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deeper black almandine than some. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by petroleum and some greenish accents, and underlying spice. Dusky. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some mineral acidity, and by blocky tannins that flow into a fairly long bitter tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness and richness to the fruit, which is at present overcome by the tannins.
1 star

Caparzo  

Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with spice and some dried flowers, and as it opens strawberry notes and warmth, with some underlying berry fruit.. Elegant, and as it opened it grew upon me. On the palate it's full, with ripe cherry fruit supported by lively strawberry acidity and by tannins that are warm and have slight peppery accents, and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with bright sour cherry and strawberry accents. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will age nicely, becoming velvety with time. A nice interpretation of the vintage.
2 stars
.
Castiglion del Bosco 

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with fresh strawberry and red berry fruit supported by some greenish savory accents and as it opens some hints of plum too; there's a lot going on and it's pleasantly harmonious. On the palate it's quite smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedar underpinning and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, though it needs a couple of years to come together and for the tannins to fold in. Time it richly deserves.
88-90

Castiglion del Bosco Campo del Drago Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with deft strawberry cherry fruit supported by some dusky notes and pleasant spice, with some alcohol as well. It's not quite a work in progress, but is towards that end of the spectrum; it needs more time. On the palate it's full with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity laced with some green leather and supported by tannins that are quite warm, and flow into a warm berry fruit finish with strong tannic underpinning. It has more potential than the base, but isn't as far along; it's a wine to set aside for 3-5 years, and will bring pleasure for a great many years thereafter.
2 stars

Campogiovanni


Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and rather vegetal, with sour balsamic accents and some berry fruit, with hints of lathered horse as well. It stands out with respect to the others. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with slightly jammy cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense cherry plum acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, though they do have a youthful burr, and flow into a fairly long plum cherry finish with dusky greenish underpinning. It's quite international in style, with richer riper fruit snd quite smooth, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably. If you prefer more aggressive interpretations of Brunello (which are more typical for this vintage) you will like it less.
2 stars

Castello di Velona

Castello di Velona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes mingled with some pepper and moderate berry fruit; it's a bit behind with respect to some of the others, and the fruit isn't emerging as well in this phase. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by cherry strawberry acidity, and by leathery tannins that are fairly spicy, with a cedar-laced burr that flows into fairly long bitter notes. It's fairly international in key, with ripe rich fruit and tannins that at present reveal a fair amount of oak, and needs a couple of years to absorb the wood and fold in.
1 star

Castello Romitorio

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Black almandine with black reflections and  almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with berry fruit supported by delicate spice and some camphor with savory notes and pleasant strawberry acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly bright rather splintery tannic finish. With respect to some of the others it's lighter, and this is exacerbated by the youthful splinteriness of the tannins. It needs time, a couple of years at least, and will be fairly graceful when it comes together.
2 stars

Citille di Sopra

Citille di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
 
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by some cedar and slight cypress, and by fairly intense savory accents. On the palate it's moderately intense, with berry fruit that is supported by minerality more than acidity, though there is some of that too, and by tannins that are ample and rather blocky, and flow into a fairly savory finish. I'd have liked greater brightness of fruit, though it may come as the tannins fold in over the next couple of years.
1 star

Col D'Orcia 

Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with dusky greenish accents mingled with some berry fruit and some cypress, and also some balsamic accents. Nut much fruit to it, however, and it is more pungent than fruit driven. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderate fruit -- generic red fruit with some plum sweetness -- and mineral more than fruit driven acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and uit fades into a fairly mineral finish. I'd have liked more richness and depth.
1 star

Cupano  

Cupano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's darker than most. The bouquet is intense and distinctive, with sour berry fruit laced with sour strawberries, and by considerable spicy cedar as well, with aromas that bring to mind bouillon too. A lot of oak, and very different from most of the others. On the palate it's quite ripe, with plum fruit supported by savory accents and mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long sweet plum finish. The differences apparent on the nose are also apparent on the palate; it makes a stylistic break towards a softer riper more international style, If you like the style you'll enjoy it.
1 star

Sassodisole

Sassodisole Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy greenish vegetal laced berry fruit supported by rather pungent spicy accents and some sea salt. On the palate it's ample, with petroleum laced berry fruit supported by sour acidity and tannins that are quite peppery with considerable cedar, and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. There's a lot of oak, and it needs at least a year, perhaps two, to absorb it. This said, I found the fruit a little riper and more towards plum than I might have liked.
1 star

Sesta di Sopra

Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some red berry fruit supported by peppery accents and spice, and by some underlying greenish vegetal notes mingled with some cedar, though not too much, and pleasant freshness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly fresh cherry fruit supported by warm wild strawberry acidity and by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery, and flow into a long warm savory cherry finish. Bright, and it's fairly alcoholic, with tannins that do have some greenish accents.
2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini 

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly pungent, with dusky cedar and mineral spice supported by some savory accents, supported by nose tingling acidity; there's not much fruit, while there are leathery aromas that a fellow taster associates with tanning. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour fruit that flows into a rather bitter tannic finish with aromas that echo those of the nose.
1 star

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite oaky, one of the oakiest tasted today, with a great rush of cedar supported by bitter accents and some leather, with underlying greenish notes and mineral acidity with some graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's ample with moderate fruit largely overshadowed by savory oak, and by savory accents, which flow into a long rather bitter oaky finish. Too much oak, and it covers all.
1 star

Fanti

Fanti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by certain pungency and savory notes as well; it's brooding and rather shadowy. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm sour strawberry acidity and tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a savory finish with hints of hazelnuts. There's something slightly off about it, in terms of fruit and acidity, and a fellow taster had the same impression.
1 star

Villa a Tolli

Villa a Tolli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's quite dark. The bouquet is intense, with alcohol and wet leather mingled with some smoky spice and moderate fruit; with some bitter accents. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with cherry fruit supported by rather splintery leather laced tannins that flow into a rather splintery finish. It's a little riper and more pungent than I might have liked, and I would have liked more intensity of fruit..
1 star

Siro Pacenti

Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent berry fruit laced with cedar and some leafy minerality, and also a fair amount of alcohol; it's a brooding wine. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, and flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish with a bitter tannic underpinning. It's a fairly dusky wine and I found myself wishing it were brighter.
1 star

Talenti

Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit laced with strawberry acidity and pleasant dried flowers, while there is also pleasant spice. Graceful. On the palate it's ample, with ripe cherry fruit that has some plum accents supported by strawberry acidity and a certain savory minerality, while the tannins are ample and smooth. The nose is a little richer than the palate, which is a touch less fruit driven than I expected, though the overall impression is pleasant, with nice depth and grace in a slightly riper than expected key.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini

Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a more rustic key, with strong balsamic accents mingled with savory notes and some rather bitter cedar; there are also hints of tanning leather. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense slightly bitter sour cherry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness and richness than I found; while it's not really settled it doesn't have the youthful brightness I would expect of a young Brunello either.
1 star

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi - Ruffino

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich -- it's still coming together -- with savory notes and some alcohol supporting some berry fruit and slight artichoke vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderately bright berry fruit supported by some mineral more than fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a rather pale cedary burr, and flow into a warm cedar laced finish. The fruit is a little overripe, and the wine lacks verve; there isn't really enough acidity to brighten it and bring it to its toes.
1 star

Tenuta la Fuga

Tenuta La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep cherry almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and spicier than most, with red berry fruit supported by mentholated floral accents, while there is also some Sapone di Marsiglia, the classic Italian laundry soap and some warmth. Zesty. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by pleasant sandalwood laced plum acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and deft, and flow into a fairly long plum cherry finish with slight sandalwood underpinning, It's quite international in style, and also quite approachable, though it does need time -- a year -- for things to fold into place, and it will then age nicely for a decade or more. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Potazzine

Tenuta Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and fairly bright spice, with alcohol as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly ripe, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit and strawberry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and rather leathery, and flow into a warm mineral finish. I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit, which hides behind the tannins and the minerality, and will I fear fade fairly quickly, as it is already retiring now. I would expect more from a Brunello.
1 star

Tenuta Oliveto 

Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ripe, with rather exotic greenish notes mingled with plum fruit and some sweetness, also a fair amount of spice. On the palate it's bright, with ripe cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol that confers considerable
warmth, and by tannins that are warm and slightly greenish, while there is also moderately bright greenish acidity. It's not as sweet or as ripe as Tenuta Oliveto generally is, but is more alcoholic, one of the most alcoholic wines tasted, and because of this is something particular in a different direction, which you will like if you like the style.
1 star

Tenute Silvio Nardi

Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled with hints of shellac and rather dusky cherry fruit supported by some wet leather and slightly pungent spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh cherry fruit supported by wild strawberry acidity and some sour cherry notes, and by tannins that are smooth and rather brash, with peppery accents and some splinters. The nose is a bit behind the palate; when it catches up, in a year's time it will be pleasant in a fairly bright brash slightly greenish key, and will age nicely for 8-10 years thereafter. If you like the more traditional style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tiezzi

Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly fruit laced with some shellac and some underlying dusky bitterness. Quite young, and more brambly than fruit driven. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by wild strawberry acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery, and flow into a fairly long tart finish with a splintery tannic underpinning that has some balsamic accents. It's fairly light, and brings to mind the Italian acerbo, which means unripe but is also used to describe slender, muscular feminine beauty. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and I found the palate growing upon me.
2 stars

Uccelliera

Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly brambly berry fruit supported by alcohol and some cedar, with slight candied accents as well, and with more swishing some greenish vegetal notes. It's a bit disjointed, and feels slightly heat struck, with quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's warm, with moderate rather sour fruit supported by dusky acidity and by tannins that are quite wood laced, and flow into a fairly long cedary finish. Lots of oak, and the tannins are quite angry.
1 star

Vasco Sassetti

Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky notes mingled with greenish vegetal accents; it's fairly aggressive and there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and riper than I expected, with smooth soft cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral laced plum acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth, with slight bitter accents, and flow into a fairly long rather bitter mineral finish with mineral acidity and tannic underpinning with strong graphite shaving bitterness. It's quite ripe, and has a fairly international feel in the softness of the tannins and the ripeness of the fruit.
1 star

Aglieta Roberto

Aglieta Roberto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's close to poured ink, and one of the darker wines I tasted. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some warm savory almost lemony acidity and slight spice with a fair amount of alcoholic warmth; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and tart with strongly mineral fruit supported by warmth and by tannins that have graphite laced bitterness and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. I'd have liked more richness and definition to the fruit, which hangs back some, surrendering to rather greenish tannins and minerality.
1 star

Camigliano

Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with dried flowers and spice mingled with some graphite shaving and rather leathery fruit that is supported by some bitter accents, and as it opens pleasant greenish artichoke stems and similar vegetal notes. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with ripe plum fruit supported by languid plum acidity and tannins that have a slight splintery mineral burr and flow into a rather bitter mineral finish. The palate is riper than I expected, more into plum, while the acidity is fairly mineral, and it's a wine that will work for you only if you like the style. If you prefer brasher brighter wines it won't float your boat.
2 stars

Agostina Pieri

Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with ripe plum fruit supported by considerable greenish artichoke laced cedar and some warmth. It gives an impression of being heavily oaked. On the palate it's ample, with soft plum cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and moderate mineral acidity, while the tannins have a sweet vanilla overlay to them and flow into a fairly tannic finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked greater richness of fruit than it displays.
1 star

Armilla

Armilla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with fairly intense vegetal accents mingled with hydrocarbons and spice more than fruit; there is also some shellac and wet leather. On the palate it's ample, soft, and fairly sweet, with moderate fruit supported by some acidity, which develops into mineral warmth in the finish, while the tannins are rather peppery. The fruit has an oddly empty feel to it, and it surrenders to warmth and acidity on the one hand and to tannins on the other. I'd have liked more fruit, and more persistence of the fruit in the finish, where it fades rather quickly.
1 star

Belpoggio

Belpoggio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with some berry fruit, and a fair amount of greenish cedar. On the palate it's rather languid, with rather languid red berry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that are fairly light, with splintery accents, and flow into a fairly ling warm berry fruit finish. It's not quite as tight as I might have liked, though the fruit does have a pleasant brightness to it; I'd have liked more depth to the tannins, which are rather splintery. If they smooth properly it will display a certain grace.
2 stars

Capanna

Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's one of the darker wines poured. The bouquet is powerful and smoky, with berry fruit supported by peppery vegetal spice and some cypress mingled with cedar and inky graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense slightly vegetal acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly smooth, though they do display a slight peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long warm rather tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It needs at least a year and perhaps two to come together; because of the ripeness of the fruit it's a wine you won't like as much if you prefer brighter fruit driven acidities and red as opposed to purple fruit.
1 star

Caprili

Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with leathery minerality and some -- not much -- berry fruit supported by dried flowers and savory spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour cherry and strawberry acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a fresh fairly bright finish with dusky tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; it will profit from another year of bottle age, and will age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Collelceto

Collelceto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and on the greenish side, with vegetal accents and spice mingled with some shellac and dusky bitterness; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's rather languid, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by a mixture of mineral acidity and sweetish cola accents that are a wood-fruit interaction, and by smooth well polished tannins that flow into a warm savory finish. It's fairly direct, one of those wines that is quite up front, and I found myself wishing for a little more complexity. It may come with time.
1 star

Ferrero
 

Ferrero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant balsamic accents mingled with peppery spice and pleasant berry fruit with some leather and leaf tobacco; it's quite young and fresh, and promises nicely. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral laced plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins with some savory accents that flow into a clean rather sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a rather ripe key, though the acidity is more red fruit than mineral, and it will also age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars

Fuligni

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with an initial rush of graphite shavings mingled with some spice and underlying bitterness. On the palate it's ample and fairly ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate cherry strawberry acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly smooth, though they do display a warm savory burr, and flow into a fairly long savory finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key as far as mouthfeel goes, though there is the graphite shaving bitterness overtones the nose. A nice expression of a difficult vintage.
2 stars

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto

Gianni Brunelli - Le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by warmth and some greenish vegetal accents with slight bitterness that emerges as it opens, and brings shadows to mind. On the palate it's ample and oddly empty, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit that fades fairly quickly into mineral acidity, while the tannins carry on all alone in a fairly splintery way. It's unusual, and a fellow taster had the same impression.
1 star

Il Marroneto

Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by some cedar and pleasant sour berry fruit acidity, and also some graphite shavings bitterness. Nice depth and elegance, in a young key. On the palate it's full, with bright ripe cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that are ample and smooth, with slight vegetal accents, and flow into a long warm finish in which some ripe plums join the berry fruit, and all is nicely defined by mineral acidity. Graceful, with considerable verve, and will drink well now with a steak, or also age well for a decade or more.
88-90

Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some cedar and slight menthol, also some alcohol. By comparison with the vintage wine it's a little behind, but is graceful. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright slightly cedar laced acidity and tannins that have a warm rather dusky finish, flowing into a clean bright slightly tannic finish. It's young, but pleasant, and will also age nicely; a fine expression of the vintage, and though the tannins are slightly green it's quite harmonious. With time I would expect it to surpass the vintage wine.
2 stars

Il Paradiso di Manfredi  

Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and elegant, with dried flowers mingled with deft berry fruit and some dried roses, also delicate leather and hints of cypress wood (what one finds furniture made from in sacristies out in the country in Italy), and pleasant spice. Quite a bit going on, and invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by bright structure acidity and by tannins that flow into a clean bright long berry fruit finish that gradually reveals some plum accents in addition to the redder fruit. Quite elegant, and has a lot to say, it will also age nicely for a number of years, and is worth seeking out. A fellow taster handed me a glass of it the next day, and I recognized it.
90-91

Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by dusky shadowy notes and some saddle leather with underlying leaf tobacco and dried flowers. Quite a bit going on, and still quite young. On the palate it's graceful, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth strawberry acidity that supported without distracting, and by pleasant savory notes, while the tannins are ample and quite smooth. Very pleasant and displays great finesse; it's traditional in style but even if you are a modernist you will find things to appreciate. Impressive, and it will also age beautifully for many years. Give it 3-5 years before opening it.
92-3

Il Poggione

Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter greenish accents and some animal notes; it's not as clean as I might have expected, and other tasters had the same impression. On the palate it's bright, though the brightness is more acidity and tannin than fruit, while the fruit is fairly moderate berry fruit and the acidity is greenish and fairly mineral. I had expected more. Not sure how else to put it.
1 star

La Togata

La Togata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some slightly leathery berry fruit supported by some alcohol and slight greenish accents with some bitter chocolate and mint. Closed. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm rather greenish burr. The fruit is a little thin, and draws up a bit short, leaving the tannins and the acidity to carry the show. I'd have liked a little more depth and fullness, though it may become ethereal with time.
1 star

Lambardi

Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ample, with deft berry fruit supported by dried roses and pleasing spice with slight cedar, and some alcohol, and greenish mentholated accents, also hints of rosemary. Quite harmonious though still developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit and strawberry acidity, and by tannins that have a slight splinteriness to them, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink very well with succulent stews or roasts, and also has the capacity to age for a number of years. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
90-91

Le Chiuse

Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit unusual, with berry fruit mingled with scalded milk and mentholated spice, with some dusky accents as well. In mid stride. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit that gains plum accents as it progresses, and is supported by acidity that starts with fruit and becomes more mineral, flowing into a fairly soft finish with plum accents. It's a bit unsettled, changing gears in mid stride as it were, and is still in a very angry phase, especially in the finish, which does display angry peppery notes. Not sure what is happening or how it will evolve.

Pian delle Vigne  

Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather blocky, with mentholated red fruit supported by some cedar and hints of cypress, and by some leathery accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately ripe red berry fruit that has some greenish twinges, and is supported by slightly vegetal acidity and tannins that are warm and rather glancing. It's neither really vegetal nor really thin, but I would have liked more depth and richness to it than I found.
1 star

Le 7 Camicie

Le 7 Camicie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with peppery spice mingled with scalded milk and some greenish accents, and also a fair amount of alcohol; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with moderate fruit that's rather sweet supported by tannins that are warm and blocky, and by moderate rather mineral acidity that flows into a fairly soft sweetish finish. I'd have liked more verve; while it's not settled it's not bright either.
1 star

Lisini

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart berry fruit supported by greenish herbal accents, in particular rosemary and hints of sage, some sea salt, and some warmth., Quite elegant, and also quite young. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity with hints of rosemary, anf by ample smooth tannins that flow into a warm sour berry fruit finish that's quite long. Elegant, and will also age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars

Lisini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant dried roses mingled with spice and slight balsamic accents supported by slight sage and by savory notes and warm cherry plum fruit. It's a little riper than some, but very much alive, with deft acidity to support the fruit. On the palate it's bright, with lively rather balsamic cherry plum fruit supported by balsamic acidity with some dusky bitterness, and by tannins that are warm and savory, and flow into a warm savory balsamic finish. Pleasatn in a traditional key, and will age nicely for a great many years; it's at the start of a long climb.
88-90

Lisini Ugolaia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim; it's a little brighter than the Riserva. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by spice and slight candied accents, and by hints of shellac; it's a bit behind with respect to the Riserva, and also a bit riper. On the palate it's ample, with ripe cherry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a slightly milky feel to them, and flow into a clean rather splintery berry fruit finish. It's less interesting than the Riserva, with tannins that are softer and somewhat less acidity, and while it is good, I found myself preferring the straight Riserva.
2 stars

Salvioni

Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
This ran out in the tasting area, forcing me to go to their table in the producer's room. Almandine with black almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with dried roses mingled with sour berry fruit and warm balsamic accents, and underlying sea salt, spice and alcohol. A lot going on. On the palate it's bright, with rather lacy tart red berry fruit supported by deft strawberry acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, though they do have a slight youthful burr, and they flow into a long warm strawberry laced berry fruit finish. Graceful in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very, very much.
90-91

Fattoi

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich and quite vegetal, with greenish accents mingled with cherry fruit and some spice; there's also some cedar, and slight scalded milk, and as it opens peppery notes emerge to take the place of the milk. On the palate it's warm, and fairly ample, with moderately intense berry sour berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and a bit splintery, and flow into a dry almost brambly finish. It's a bit thinner than I expected, and I would have liked more richness to the fruit.
1 star

Fattoi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006 Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, while more swishing brings up some red berry fruit supported  by dusky shadowy bitterness and some minerality, with underlying greenish cedar and a fair amount of sea salt, with some smoky warmth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderate rather leathery sour cherry fruit supported by savory berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are still very young, and flow into a long warm tannic burr with some savory accents. It needs a lot of time, but shows promise, and will be pleasant in a middle of the road key, though I would give it 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Il Poggiolo

Il Poggiolo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with berry fruit and some dusky greenish notes. Penetrating and quite young. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry anf strawberry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and rather spicy, and flow into a fairly long warm sour berry fruit finish with peppery tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more traditional than middle of the road key, and will already drink well with foods, though it also has the capacity to age nicely for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars

Il Poggiolo Terra Rossa Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable greenish spice and quite a bit of cedar, which overshadows the fruit, and has smoky bitter accents as well. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with soft sour cherry fruit supported by smoky acidity that has slight balsamic accents, and by tannins that have a cedary cast and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. It is more laden than the base wine, and though the fruit is there it's not quite up to carrying the load.
1 star

Il Poggiolo Beato Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006 Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky bitterness mingled with red berry fruit and supported by some leaf tobacco and slight heather, with a little sage as well, and some wet leather. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm splintery butt, and lead into a fairly long savory sour berry fruit finish. It's very young, and rather single track, following a fairly direct line; it may develop complexity with time, or it may hold this course. I had expected a little more.
1 star

Il Poggiolo Il Mio Brunello Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, with savory accents that bring salted capers to mind, and then display some smoke, supporting some berry fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a greeninsh slightly balsamic peppery burr that goes on at length. It has a tired feel to it, and I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit, especially considering that it's an 06.
1 star

La Fiorita

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of oak supported by rather aggressive acidity and greenish accents, while there is also some red berry fruit that peeks out from under it all. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm rather mineral aicidyt and by tannins that are very smooth and flow into a fairly long finish with slight savory cedar laced accents. It's quite international in style, and the nose is behind the palate; I would give it a year at least  to develop, and expect it to age well for a decade at least
2 stars

La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable greenish cedar mingled with minerality and petroleum intense enough that is begins to smell animal, like raw beef that's been out too long; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite mineral, with minerality more than fruit supported by smooth slightly peppery tannins that flow into a fairly long tannic finish with underlying bitterness. I would have expected considerably more fruit than it displays.
1 star

La Fortuna

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some oak mingled with graphite shaving minerality and some spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with warm sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather greenish, and flow into a clean spicy warm sour berry fruit finish. The nose is behind the palate, which is somewhat lacking in fruit; I would have liked a little more richness to it.
1 star

La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by delicate graphite shavings and some green apple skins, which are unusual in a Brunello but present at this phase. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by bright strawberry acidity and by splintery tannins that draw considerably from oak, and need at least another 2-3 years to fold in. Quite oaky, oakier than I remember this winery-s wines being in other vintages, and too oaky for my personal taste..
1 star
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La Gerla

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite spicy, with berry fruit supported by cola and some coffee grounds, and also graphite shaving bitterness and some vegetal spice. Quite international, and very young. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, with delicate cedary accents, and flow into a fairly long rather mineral cedar laced finish. It's as international on the palate as it is on the nose, and if you like the style, which is quite approachable ins a softer riper key, you will enjoy it. I f you're a traditionalist you won't.
2 stars

La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chocolate and coffee grounds supporting jammy prune fruit and a fair amount of warmth. Concentrated. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit laced with cocoa and some slightly greenish vegetal accents, and supported by tannins that are splintery -- youth -- and flow into a cocoa laced finish with hints of Sichuan preserved vegetable. It's a bit disconcerting.
1 star

Mastrojanni

Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky berry fruit supported by some graphite shavings and underlying bitterness, and also warm peppery spice. Fairly traditional in feel. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly rich sour cherry and strawberry acidity, and by tannins that flow into a warm savory berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, with considerable substance, and if you like the style you will enjoy ti. If you prefer softer riper wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Mastrojanni Vigna Loreto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky with leathery berry fruit laced with leaf tobacco and some warm spice; it's pleasant in a rather haunting traditional key. On the palate it's full and smooth, with rich slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by deft balsamic acidity that has some strawberry accents and slight rosemary herbal notes, and by tannins that are warm and savory, and flow into a clean tannic finish. Elegant in a traditional key, and needs another couple of years to come together and will age nicely for 8-10 years at least. By comparison with the vintage wine the tannins are a little more pronounced, making the wine seem drier; with time they will fold in, but I found the vintage wine to be slightly richer than the wine from a single vineyard.
2 stars
.
Mocali

Mocali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense with cherry plum fruit laced with cedar and some spice, with some chocolate and cocoa mixed in, and hints of marzipan as well. On the palate it's ample and quote smooth, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet cedar laced tannins that flow into a long finish with cedar and some black coffee bitterness that fades into some sea salt with sweetish wood accents. Quite international, in a riper key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

La Mannella

La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by sage and some savory rosemary, and by a fair amount of alcohol: powerful and quite young. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and sweet tannins that have a youthful burr, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will drink nicely for a number of years; I would give it a couple of years to come together and develop before I opened it.
2
stars

La Mannella I Poggiarelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet us fairly intense, with dried roses mingled with warmth and berry fruit, and some fairly bright herbal notes of rosemary and hints of sage. On the palate it's bright, though not as bright as the Brunello Base, with fruit that's red berry but riper, with some sweetness, and also less acidic, while the tannins are brambly, with a greenish peppery burr that flows into a fairly ling rather tannic finish. It's a bit heavier than the vino base, and not as deft; it's obvious that the wine aims to be more Important, but I found it drawing up a bit short, and this is because of the nature of the vintage.
1 star

La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim paling to Moroccan leather. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and herbal notes, in particular sage with a touch of rosemary, and some underlying leather. Not much fruit yet, but it's clearly developing. On the palate it's bright, with languid berry fruit supported by fairly bright wild strawberry acidity, and by tightly woven tannins that flow into a fairly long bright strawberry laced finish with a bitter tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, or rather will be pleasant in a middle of the road key in a few years; at present it's much too young to drink. I would give it 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for 10-15.
2 stars

Pacenti Franco - Canalicchio

Pacenti Franco Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dried roses and some leather mingled with slight leaf tobacco and some savory spice, with a fair amount of underlying alcohol. It's still coming together. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory slightly bitter warmth coupled with fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a warm slightly bitter finish. It's quite young, and needs a couple of years for the tannins to smooth in, at which point it will be approachable, in a rather brash key; the Italian word that comes to mind is Acerbo, which is also used to describe lithe feminine beauty. I don't think it will be tremendously long lived, but it does display pleasing grace.
2 stars

Poggio Antico

Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with a fair amount of oak and some leathery accents, supported by slight sea salt and savory note, and by some berry fruit with underlying graphite shavings. It's still coming together, but gives an impression of being fairly heavily oaked. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense strawberry acidity, and by tannins that flow into a fairly bright sour berry fruit finish that's fairly long, It's more interesting on the palate than nose now, and while not overripe does have a certain ripe sweetish languidity to the fruit, and is pleasant in a middle of the road key, though it does suffer the vintage some. It will age nicely for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars

Poggio Antico Altero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and some berry fruit.. It's still coming together, and is further behind than the vintage wine. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft cherry strawberry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and slightly splintery, flowing into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish. The palate it a bit richer than the base's and I found it more interesting, though it needs at least a couple of years for the nose o come together and flesh out.
2 stars

Collemattoni

Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strawberry fruit supported by delicate floral accents and some roses, with slight scalded milk as well, and some nose tingling spice. On the palate it's pleasant in a middle of the road key, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that has slight jammy sweetness to it, supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery finish. It's middle of the road in key, and pleasant enough though I would have preferred more fruit than mineral acidity.
2 stars

Loacker - Corte Pavone 

Loacker - Corte Pavone Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep slightly purple cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of savory spice. On the palate it's ripe, with prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and by moderate slightly chalky acidity that flow into a very tannic finish with some prune jam sweetness, and as the sweetness fades savory notes that induce salivation step in. It's heavily oaked and the fruit hasn't begun to digest the oak yet. I wonder if it ever will.
1 star

Màtè

Màtè Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and smoky, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable greenish cedar mingled with some hydrocarbons and some spice. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with prune fruit supported by greenish petroleum laced acidity, and by tannins that are smooth, with a slightly chemical cedary overlay, and flow into a brighter than expected tannic prune finish. It's quite international in style, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it. If you are more traditionally minded it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Piancornello

Piancornello Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with yellow peaches mingled with greenish herbal accents and some hydrocarbons. Not much fruit, though as it opens some banana does emerge. On the palate it's ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and some berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and rather soft, and flow into a soft plum fruit. It's international in key and quite ripe, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I found it wanting in terms of verve.
1 star

Pian delle Querci

Pian delle Querci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish mentholated accents that have hints of artichoke to them, some shellac, and by fairly intense alcohol with underlying sweetish accents. On the palate it's sweet, with fairly rich ripe plum fruit with some jammy prune overtones, and supported by dusky greenish acidity and tannins that are ample and sweet, flowing into a fairly ripe prune finish. It's overripe in a fairly fruity red berry with hints of prune key, and also quite alcoholic. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star

Podere Brizio

Podere Brizio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some shellac and moderate spice. It needs time. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry strawberry acidity and by tannins that are quite splintery and flow into a long bright quite tannic finish with sour berry fruit. It needs a couple of years to come together, though I rather suspect the tannins will always be somewhat splintery. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will work well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Podere le Ripi

Podere Le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and quite oaky, with cedar and some yellow peach, in this case a wood-fruit interaction, and also dusky greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, coupled with some cumin spice. On the palate it's ample and rather sweet, with plum prune fruit supported by peppery notes and tannins that are warm and have a splintery cedar underpinning. I'd have liked more verve and zest than I found.
1 star

Poggio dell'Aquila

Poggio dell'Aquila Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and jammy, with red berry fruit supported by some sweetness and prune jam coupled with greenish spice and some peppery accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate cherry fruit supported by sweet berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth. It's fairly soft, in a ripe but not overripe key, and could do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Querce Bettina 

Querce Bettina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pungent, with some greenish accents and warm spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright strawberry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and slightly greenish, with splintery accents that flow into lasting warmth. It's more pleasant on the palate than I expected from the nose, which leads me to say that it needs a couple of years for the nose to develop and come together; it will then age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars

Querce Bettina Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by delicate spice and hints of dried roses, and by some shellac, with underlying alcohol. Still very young, and coming together in a fairly graceful key. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft strawberry-raspberry acidity and by tannins that are still rather blocky, and flow into a bright sour berry fruit finish with splintery tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, though still very young, and needs a couple of years at least to begin to come together; it will be graceful in a fairly traditional key, and will age well for a very long time.
2 stars

San Giacomo

San Giacomo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm berry fruit supported by a fair amount of spice and some greenish mentholated accents. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense slightly leathery berry fruit supported by moderate more mineral than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are ample and quite smooth, flowing into a smooth rather tannic finish. It's lacking in verve, and the tannins at present overshadow the fruit; while they will fold in with time there's not that much acidity to forge ahead.
1 star

Renieri

Renieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky accents and spice mingled with greenish mentholated notes and ripe cherry fruit with some dusky plum notes. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly sweet plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that have sweetish cedary accents and flow into a fairly long rather bitter cedar laced finish with lasting bitterness that gradually gives way to minerality. It's lacking in verve, and as the tannins loose their splinteriness they will become brooding and dark.
1 star

San Polino

San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with greenish accents and some bitter graphite shavings, and fairly bright alcohol. On the palate it's quite riep, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that have a splintery greenish cedary burr and flow into a quite tannic finish. When the burr fades it will be big, quite ripe, and rather sweet, and is a wine you should only consider if you like this style. If you prefer tighter wines with redder fruit and more acidity it won't work for you.
1 star

San Polo 

San Polo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warmth and some cedar mingled with yellow peach and moderate alcohol; it's fairly direct. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense ripe cherry plum fruit supported by sea salt and some spicy accents, while the tannins are warm and fairly splintery. I'd have liked more verve and acidity to keep it up; it settles some, and will settle further with time.
1 star

Santa Giulia

Santa Giulia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant dried flowers mingled with some herbs, hints of sage in particular, and some underlying berry fruit with pleasant warmth. On the palate it's pleasant in a rather ripe key, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet. It's a touch overripe into plum, but not too sweet, and there is moderate plum peach acidity that keeps it up. I don't think it will age for too long, but if you like the style, which is large and fairly international, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

La Poderina 

La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with warm berry fruit supported by pleasant strawberry accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright strawberry finish. It's not really tight, but does display pleasing grace and will drink well with foods. Give it a couple of years to come together, however.
2 stars

La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG 2006Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite herbal, with dill and some caraway seed mingled with berry fruit and some peppery accents; there's quite a bit going on in a youthful, rather graceful key. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that gradually emerged, flowing into a fairly long warm finish, while the tannins are smooth and sweet. I'd have expected a bit more verve and a bit more acidity. It could surprise me, becoming lacily ethereal, but I expected more power out of 2006.
2 stars

Le Macioche 

Le Macioche Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by sweaty red head, something I associate more with certain Sauvignon Blancs than with red wines, but it's there, and quite intense. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and pleasant greenish accents, and flows into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish with underlying mentholated spice. It's fairly international in feel though the fruit is red rather than ovveripe, especially in the hydrocarbons notes that emerge towards the finish. It will work well with red meats, and age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars

Pinino 

Pinino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some dusky accents. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit with some plum accents supported by fairly bright strawberry acidity, and by tannins that have pronounced cedary accents and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. Needs another 3-5 years to come together and will be pleasant in a fairly international key.
2 stars

Poggio Rubino

Poggio Rubino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strawberry acidity and red berry fruit laced with some hydrocarbons and pleasant underlying greenish accents. Fresh., On the palate it's bright, with rather languid cherry plum fruit supported by deft slightly greenish berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and have a greenish burr, and flow into a  fairly fresh slightly greenish finish. Pleasant in a fairly international key.
2 stars

Canneta  

Canneta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2007Deep black almandine; deeper than many, with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy with some menthol and moderately intense berry fruit; it's still coming together. On the palate it's rich, with bright ripe cherry fruit supported by plum overtones and fairly ripe berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and have a greenish cast, and flow into a warm slightly greenish plum finish. Pleasant in a quite ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars