Tasted at Vinitaly: Cà Lojera

I met Cà Lojera's Ambra Tiraboschi, who looks rather like Maria Callas in the photo she puts up in her stand at Vinitaly, many years ago at Bordeaux's Vinexpo: It was the end of a very long day, my feet wished they belonged to someone else, and I had stopped to say hi to Paolo Abbona of Marchesi di Barolo. Sat down too, and found myself sipping a rather nice sparkling wine that turned out to be a Lugana from the southern shores of Lake Garda.

When I asked whose it was, Ambra raised her hand and smiled. Much has happened since then; they've redone their cellars and added a restaurant, which is open for dinner during the summer months, and Ambra's daughter Alessandra has had two delightful children. I make a point of stopping by her stand at Vinitaly every year. This year her husband Franco, who dislikes the limelight, was not there, but there was another surprise: she had redone her labels, with drawings by Angelo Peretti, friend and colleague who is also Director of the Consorzio del Bardolino.

Cà Lojera Lugana 2011
Lot TF 02 12
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright loquat laced with loquat acidity and some honeydew melon and underlying vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet loquat fruit supported by some flinty bitterness and fairly bright acidity that opens with loquat and then becomes mineral in the finish, which is fairly long. Pleasant, in a rather languid key, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with fish, especially lake fish.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore 2009
Lot LS.TF.11 Ferments in large wood.
This is a prerelease sample; they are still selling the 2008. It's brilliant brassy white with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch and minerality supported by some dusky bitterness and moderate mineral acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rich loquat fruit laced with some honeydew melon  and slight sweetness, and supported by moderately intense mineral acidity with a loquat underpinning that carries into a fresh fairly long loquat finish with slight butterscotch accents. Pleasant, with considerable depth,and will drink nicely with grilled or roasted fish or white meats, and will also age nicely for several years.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana del Lupo 2009
Lot TF.11.09
This is a Vendemmia Tardiva; it's then fermented in steel. And is a slightly more charged brassy yellow with brilliant greenish brassy reflections and highlights. The bouquet is intense, with brambly heather and some greenish vegetal acidity laced with gunflint and struck granite; it's more mineral than fruit driven on the nose. On the palate it's rich, with elegant loquat fruit supported by honeydew melon  acidity and by slightly flintiness, and flows into a long rather deft loquat finish that gradually fades into loquat tartness. Quite elegant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with grilled or roasted fish. Something to seek out.
90-91

Cà Lojera Belle Metodo Classico 2008
This is a pas dosée that spent 36 months on the lees; it's pale brassy gold with brilliant greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish minerality mingled with breadcrumbs and some savory notes. It's deft and rather crisp in a vegetal key. On the palate it's full, with powerful tart lemony loquat fruit supported by peppery notes from the sparkle and minerality, and by minerality that emerges in the finish, which is quite long. It's a bit exuberant, with the sparkle bursting forth strongly on the tongue, making for a sensation that is more peppery than creamy. If you like softer sparkling wines it wont work as well for you, but it does display a pleasing brashness.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Monte della Guardia Chardonnay 2009
This is a Vino da tavola because they put the varietal on the label and that's not accepted in what it would qualify as. Brassy gold with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is intense, with tropical fruit, passion fruit mingled with some golden delicious apple and slight mentholated accents with underlying sweetness. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense lemony fruit supported by lemony acidity that has slight apple accents and flows into a fairly long slightly savory mineral finish with some citric accents. It's a bit more direct than the Lugana, and will drink well as an aperitif or with simple white fish or white meats. Refreshing.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Rosato Monte Della Guardia
Lot TF 80 11
This is a Vino da Tavola because the local appellations don't forsee making a rosé from Merlot and cabernet; as such it doesn't have a vintage on the label, though the lot indicates 2011. Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with ras mingled with some wild strawberry and some ripe underlying forest berry fruit that's moderately sweet. Welcoming On the palate it's is smooth and fairly rich, with bright strawberry ras fruit supported by moderate acidity and slight tannins that flow into a finish that has slight gunflint accents to balance the sweet smoothness of the fruit. It's a deft, smooth fairly soft Rosato that will drink nicely on a hot day, either among friends or at a picnic. Not quite enough acidity (for me) for it to work as a cookout wine.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Merlot della Guardia 2009
Lot TF ME 09
This is again a Vino da tavola. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright mentholated forest berry fruit supported by some peppery spice and deft berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite round, with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, but do displays some graphite shaving bitterness that carries into a fairly long warm graphite shaving laced finish. It will drink quite well with simple not too fatty grilled meats or ight stews or roasts.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Cabernet della Guardia 2009
Lot TF.01.09
Again, a VDT. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite varietal, with rich bel pepper laced with vegetal notes and some coffee, and also fairly intense spice and underlying forest berry fruit fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a savory vegetal burr, and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with greenish vegetal notes. A classic deft Cabernet, quick on it toes and quite fresh, and if you like the varietal you will enjoy the wine.
2 stars

Ambra always brings a few older wines to Vinitaly:

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore 2001
Lot 07.03
Time does show; it's a considerably deeper brassy gold than the current vintage, with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch and some spice supported by gunflint and citric acidity with some underlying clover honey too. On the palate it's deft, with bright citrc fruit supported by mineral citric acidity and slightl not too sweet honey, with hint sof butterscotch, and slows into a long rather mineral citric finish. Quite pleasant, and proof, as if any were needed, that Lugana is a wine that profits from additional time in bottle. Perfectly fresh.
88-90

Cà Lojera Vigna Silva Lugana 1999
Lot 5 9 00
Charged greenish gold with brilliant golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with dried white pear mingled with minerality and some rather bitter honey, and also some minerality. On the palate it's bright, with lively loquat fruit supported by brisk loquat acidity and slight minerality, and whiule this is quick to write its beautifully woven, with a tight freshness that the more recent, somewhat hotter vintages with sweeter grapes struggle to achieve. A beautiful wine one would certainly not guess is entering its teen years.
91-2

Cà Lojera Monte della Guardia Rosso 2001
Lot 12.07
Almandine with black reflections and briwnish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite tertiary, with leaf tobacco and dried savory mushrooms mingled with spice and sea salt, and some underlying greenish vegetal notes; there's also underbrush and some forest berry fruit fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with pleasant forest berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have a warm slightly earthy feel to them, and flow into a clean rather savory tannic finish. It's pleasant, but has aged considerably more than the whites, and something I would serve with a roast to a wine loving friend of the sort who likes to converse with the wine than to just anyone.
2 stars

Carmignano: The 2010, 2009 and 2008 Vintages - and More!

The Carmignano Appellation has just presented the new releases of Carmignano, a red wine that is similar to Chianti in that it is primarily Sangiovese, the classic Tuscan red varietal, and different because the Appellation requires 10-20% Cabernet, a nod to Cosimo III de'Medici, who planted and experimented uva Franciosa, as it was called, in his Carmignano vineyards in the early 1700s.

Though the Cabernet has had time to become acclimatized and adapt to its Tuscan surroundings, 10-20% is quite enough to have a powerful influence upon the wine, and with respect to other Central Tuscan wines that lack it Carmignano tends to be more vegetal, with notes of hay or green vegetables, in particular bell pepper, on the nose, and earthy Cabernet-derived accents to the fruit, while the tannic structure also reveals Cabernet facets.

In short, Carmignano stands out from the other Central Tuscan appellations, especially now that those in Chianti are turning away from the international varietals that were all the rage 10-15 years ago, and as such it offers a pleasant change of pace. For a considerably more detailed discussion of the appellation, see my introduction to the 2009 presentation.

This year's presentation was once again held at Capezzana, which is by far the most important estate in the Carmignano appellation.

The vintages presented ranged from 2011 for some of the whites and the Vin Ruspo, Carmignano's Rosato, to 2010 for the Barco Reale, Carmignano's ligher red, 2010 for most the Carmignano vintage wine, and on to 2009-2008 for the Riserva wines, while some of the IGT wines and Vinsanti were from older vintages.

Taken as a group the 2010 vintage Carmignano displays considerable cabernet, which overshadows Sangiovese, presenting as vegetal accents and with a certain warmth. The 2009 and 2008 wines tend to be brighter, with the fruit shifted more towards red berry fruit and less towards plum, and are also markedly less vegetal.


The wines, Tasted February 18 2012

Podere Allocco

Podere Allocco Trebbiano IGT Toscana 2010

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich floral accents mingled with straw, some brambly acidity vegetal underpinning. Zesty. On the palate it's fairly rich, in an ample key with strong slightly overripe white berry fruit supported by greenish bitter accents that carry into a fairly long finish with greenish accents and some butterscotch as well It's a little more charged than I might have liked on the palate, and heavy rather than agile, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. A wine that will work well with more substantial offerings that will profit from its power. Not much minerality; the fullness is more glycerin and alcohol.
1 star

Podere Allocco Bacano IGT Toscana 2010

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent minerality and some butterscotch supported by dusky shadowy notes and some overripe pear, and brambly acidity as well. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant slightly bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish. Deft, in a decidedly mineral key, with more minerality than fruit acidity, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cocoa, slight sandalwood, and berry fruit mingled with some greenish vegetal accents, the combination somehow brings a hostess cupcake to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather smoky greenish vegetal notes supported by spice and menthol more than fruit, and it flows into a rather blocky peppery finish with spicy underpinning. It's a touch more vegetal than I might have liked.
1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with smoky red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a cedary underpinning and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with greenish tannic underpinning and fairly intense vegetal accents. Quite approachable in a young key, and will drink well with red meats.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though some greenish accents emerge, mingled with acidity and hints of balsam. Promising but not really developed yet. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents, sour minerality and tannins that are smooth and quite powerful, flowing into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning, Quite promising, and if the nose follows the palate's lead will be something to look out for.

Tenuta Capezzana

Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2008

Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections. the bouquet is deft, and elegant, with mineral laced butterscotch supported by deft spice and some pleasing greenish vegetal accents. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with butterscotch laced minerality supported by mineral acidity and slight tannins that have a slightly brambly feel to them and flow into a clean dry butterscotch laced finish with some caramel overtones. Quite pleasant in a rich international key, and is one of the finer expressions of this wine that I have tasted; by comparison with other vintages more fruit and more minerality from grapes emerges, making it more interesting.
88-90

Tenuta Capezzana Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Slightly duskier pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky red berry fruit supported by some bramble and savory notes, and moderate red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense raspberry cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a warm rather sour mineral laced finish with bitter underpinning. A fairly direct wine in a simple up front key.
1 star

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale DOCG 2009

Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with a great gout of greenish violets mingled with spice and leather; with a rush of sea breeze as well. Unusual. On the palate it's bright, with richer than expected cherry black currant fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some vegetal accents, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and lead into a clean bitter finish. Fresh, and still a bit in the air; it will work well with simple grilled meats, for example thick burgers, and in the proper context will be perfect. But it does need until summer for the nose to come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2010

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violet laced plume cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents that bring gum Arabic to mind, and some spice as well. Quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's ample in a ripe key, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by moderate savory acidity and quite a bit of sea salt, and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay with some sweetness from wood as well, and flow into a clean savory vanilla laced finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and if you like the style is quite approachable and a wine you will enjoy considerably.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents, chalk dust, and some peppery spice, also some berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents, peppery spice and tannins that have a warm peppery and belle pepper burr, flow into a sandalwood laced finish that's quite dry. It needs another year to come together, and will be quite different when it has.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with sandalwood and some balsam, and with some vegetal accents as it opens. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that have warm slightly balsamic savory accents, and flow into a clean savory berry fruit finish. It needs another year to fold in, but is pleasant in a ripe key; while the fruit has shifted into prunes and plums there is still red fruit acidity, and this confers a degree of verve.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is savory; with some greenish accents that -- at first swish -- brought a bean pot to mind, and then opened to reveal vegetal notes more than fruit. It gives an impression of being in mod stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm balsamic burr and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. Needs another couple of years to come together and smooth, at which point it should be fairly traditional (and quite improved), though that's for the future, and not today.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2006

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Impenetrable black cherry with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some minerality mingled with cherry fruit and some forest berry fruit, and also slight vegetal accents. Graceful in a lacy sort of way. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and though well polished not retiring, and flow into a clean fairly bright tannic finish with hints of balsam and more evident savory berry fruit accents. Quite pleasant, though young, and will also age nicely for many years.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Sessanta IGT Toscana 2007

From a Magnum
This is a Merlot. Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with underbrush and red berry fruit supporting some sour berry fruit and pleasant greenish accents; there's something voluptuous to it. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smoky accents and tannins that are warm and rather balsamic, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with balsamic underpinning. Quite young but also quite pleasant with deft grace, and will drink very well with foods, and also age nicely for a decade or more.
88-90

Tenuta di Capezzana Capezzana 804 IGT Toscana 2004

From a Magnum
This is a Syrah. Deep pyrope ruby with some purple in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some underbrush and savory accents with underlying cherry plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich in a decidedly savory balsamic key with plum cherry fruit supported by warm savory tannins and sour balsamic acidity that flow into a fairly long savory tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs time to come together -- I had the impression of looking in on a nursery school with it. A bit too young to score, because it could go in any of several directions. All good, but I want to see where it goes first.

Tenuta Capezzana Vinsanto 2006

Tawny amber with brilliant orange reflections and slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is powerful and sweet, with dried fruit, dates and figs, supported by some caramel and brown sugar, and warm nose tingling acidity with some almonds and walnuts skins as well. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich date and fig fruit supported by bright date acidity and sweetness that is brown sugar with hints of maple, and the sugar is intense enough to leave a granular trail across the tongue, flowing into a fairly long finish that has some walnuts, and then fades into sweetness. Quite pleasant in a very sweet key, and if you like this sweeter style of vinsanto, which brings the wines of Montepulciano to mind, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Castelvecchio

Castelvecchio Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Pale pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is fresh and bright, with lively raspberry fruit and raspberry acidity supported by some red blossoms and slight jammy accents with hints of vegetal underpinning. Voluptuous, and the jam increases the curves. On the palate it's bright, with lively raspberry fruit that is supported by acidity and slight brambly tannins, and gains fullness from slight sweetness, which again accentuates the curves. Pleasant, and will be quite refreshing in the summer months, an ideal picnic wine.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some mentholated notes, also some dusky black pepper and slight sandalwood. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary graphite shaving bitterness, and by warm sandalwood laced acidity, which flow into a clean rather vegetal finish with underlying grilled pepper and pencil shaving bitterness. Pleasant, in a fairly bright key.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with powerful vegetal and bell pepper accents mingled with berry fruit and chalk dust, and some mentholated notes as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly bright, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish almost balsamic tannins and warm greenish acidity that flows into a warm balsam laced finish that's rather blocky. I'd have liked more depth and verve.
1 star

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with polished leather and some spice mingled with cumin seeds and savory accents. Not much fruit, though as it opens some savory barnyard tang with greenish balsamic accents emerges On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean savory finish. It's a bit behind, the nose especially, and needs a year to come together and develop. It will with time become ethereal, in a traditional key, but has a little less fruit than I might have liked.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Vinsanto 2007

Pale amber with brilliant apricot reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly sweet, with greenish vegetal accents and green apricot mingled with some almonds and hints of dates and figs that as they gain in intensity replace the vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with sweet dried fruit, dates in particular, and date sweetness, which gives way to walnut skins as it flows into the finish, which is walnutty. It's a bit more direct than I like, and the finish is rather abrupt, with the fruit dropping off to give way to the walnuts.
1 star

Artimino

Artimino Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Lively raspberry pink with brilliant electric pink reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with slight bell pepper and sour berry fruit with hints of bell pepper jam as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish sour berry fruit supported by bell pepper bitterness and by some savory notes, while there are also light slightly splintery tannins. Quite fresh, though a touch coarser than the Castelvecchio -- and this will make it better suited to accompanying fried white meats or fish, a summer favorite -- while it will be a nice picnic or cookout wine too.
2 stars

Artimino Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by dusky spice more than acidity, and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with slight graphite shavings. On the palate it's brighter than expected from the nose, though in a brooding key, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an abundance of bitter graphite shavings and flow into a slightly smoky sour bitter finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, in a decidedly vegetal key, and it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2010

Impenetrable purple ruby ink with purple ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with belle pepper and vegetal accents, and supported by some savory notes as well, and by some metallic smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with plum cherry fruit supported by dusky minerality and graphite shaving bitterness more than acidity, and flows into a rather dusky finish. Despite the ripeness of the fruit it's a brooding wine, and while I would have liked a little more verve out of personal preference it is quite harmonious, with everything precisely where it should be.
2 stars

Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and somewhat greenish, with savory accents more than berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with greenish sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that have a splintery greenish burr and flow into a fairly long savory finish. I found the palate more interesting than the nose, though it is a touch thinner than I might have liked.
1 star

Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with India ink bitterness mingled with spice and iodine,a nd some plum cherry fruit as well. Coming together. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by considerable vegetal laced graphite shavings bitterness and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. Promising, in a rather austere key, with more minerality and more vegetal accents than some, and will also age nicely.

Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite mineral with some nose tingling acidity and spice, also some greenish wet leather. Dusky, bringing dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's pleasant, in a fairly mineral key, with savory red berry fruit supported by warm rather balsamic acidity and by smooth balsam-laced tannins that flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though one could drink it now it will have more to say in a few years, and will be reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Artimino Vinsanto Occhio di Pernice 2006

Tawny amber with brilliant orange reflections and greenish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and sweet, with orange and slight quinine notes mingled with minerality and some almonds, bit none of the brown sugar or walnuts one often finds in a vinsanto. It's going in a slightly different direction, and interesting. The palate reflects the nose; it's fairly sweet, with hints of orange and quinine bitterness that provides definition, and also some acidity, though its' more the quinine that carries the show, and it flows into a fairly bright bitter finish. Unusual; this is the first time I've encountered quinine in a vinsanto, and I'm not sure what to think of it.
1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete

Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with mineral laced greenish bell pepper fruit supported by chalk and artichoke stem as well, and also some cedar. Shadowy. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately bright decidedly vegetal fruit supported by tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a rather bitter savory finish. Smoky, and will work well with succulent meats.
2 stars


Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale DOCG 2009

Moderately deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by sweetish accents and slight dusky graphite, with hints of underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich, ripe, fairly sweet forest berry fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity and by tannins that are ample and have a slightly splintery burr that gives texture to their underlying smoothness. It's fairly voluptuous, in a rich ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable savory greenish vegetal accents and some peppery spice, but less red fruit that I might have expected. The French varietals seem to be covering a lot. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by minerality and tannins that have a clean bright mineral burr to them, and flow into a vegetal laced finish with black currant fruit underpinning that fades to savory notes. Pleasant in a fairly ripe key, and needs another year to come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by savory accents, some black pepper, slight greenish notes, and hints of petroleum. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit laced with black currant fruit and supported by sour mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and slightly glancing, flowing into a savory mineral finish with underlying tannic burr. Pleasant in a young key, the tannins are still coming together. Will age well.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vegetal accents, some cedar, savory notes and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather languid, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory spice and tannins that have a warm slightly splintery burr, flow into a clean savory finish with cherry plum underpinning

Podere il Sassolo

Podere il Sassolo Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Pale cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with zesty greenish vegetal accents supported by acidity and moderate red berry fruit. It's still coming together. On the palate it's fairly light, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity with some fruit overtones and by tannins that are light and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. A pleasant lark of a wine that will work quite well with meat based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, including fattier cuts such as lamb chops, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. It doesn't try to be more than a Barco should be.
2 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is a bit up in the air, with airiness that brings paper to mind supported by chalk and some greenish accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with dusky rather bitter fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr; it revolves more around bitterness than fruit, and will most likely continue on this path with time.
1 star

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by some yellow peach, and by greenish accents as well, with some spice too. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and by tannins that are warm and rather balsamic, flowing into a warm slightly balsamic sour berry fruit finish pleasant in a more traditional key, and though it needs time will already work well with steaks or other hearty grilled meats.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina in Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up bramble and minerality with dried artichoke stem greenness and some spice too. Not much fruit On the palate it's bright, and quite vegetal, with artichoke more than bell pepper greenness, and smooth dusky greenish tannins with some balsamic accents, and it flow into a warm fairly greenish finish. It's still very young, and needs at least a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections anc cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, swishing brings up savory notes, slight balsam, and spice more than fruit. On the palate it's ample with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and quite forward, laying a spicy veneer over the tongue. Very young, and needs time. I would have however liked more fruit.


Fattoria Ambra Elzana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky savory notes and balsamic accents mingled with cocoa and some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly irpe with plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidty, and by tannins that are cedar laced and flow into a cedar laced finish with underlying bitterness. I's have liked more depth and verve; it's a little flatter than I might have wanted.

Pratesi

Pratesi Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly fresh, with dusky violets supported by sea salt and bell peppers with some artichoke greenness as well, and by underlying forest berry fruit. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry black currant fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary underpinning and are still quite dry, need time to fold in. Promising however, and will do interesting things with time, I think. It grew on me.
2 stars

Pratesi Locorosso Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite green, with artichoke stems more than peppers and some tobacco, with slight savory notes as well. On the palate it's brighter than expected, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some bell pepper accents, and by tannins that are warm and slightly cedar laced with hints vanilla and sandalwood, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with some vegetal accents. Pleasant though young, and will do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Pratesi Circo Rosso Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsam laced prune cherry fruit supported by savory notes and hardwood ash with some greenish vegetal acidity. On the palate it's pleasant at the outset, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity that surrenders to cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long, quite powerful cedar laced finish. At present the tannins are overly dry and bring the fruit to its knees; we will have to wait to see how they fold in with time.

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2006

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some plum cherry fruit supported by delicate vegetal accents mingled with some cut squash and hints of shellac. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by balsamic accents, and by tannins that are warm and balsamic, and at present gradually emerge, predominating. A little too much oak for me now, and I doubt the fruit will ever really throw it off.
1 star

Piaggia

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly sharp, with penetrating greenish accents and acidity supporting prune plum fruit, and some vegetal notes as well with a savory underpinning. On the palate it's riper than I expected, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish cedary overlay and by moderate minerality more than fruit driven acidity, which flows into a fairly long greenish finish that has hints of sweetness, which are likely alcohol. Approachable in a ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But do give it a couple of years to get its bearings.
2 stars

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2009

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim that has hints almandine. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and sea salt supported by some vegetal notes, more grass and Sichuan preserved vegetable than bell peppers. On the palate it's rich and languid in a quite ripe key, with rich plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that have a slight vegetal burr, and flow into a fairly long, fairly sweet prune finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and if you like rich ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it; the palate is ahead of the nose and I would give the nose another year to come together.
2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and fresh for a Riserva, with violets mingled with spice and sandalwood with some nose tingling vegetal acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with rich plum cherry fruit that's fairly sweet supported by tannins that have fairly intense barrel sample bitterness to them, and some mineral acidity that flows into a dusky plum fruit laced mineral finish. Opulent, and as the tannins smooth and fold in it will be even more opulent.

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory smoky sea salt and spice, and is also rather penetrating. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, ans sweeter than I expected, with vegetal notes that carry more than the plum prune fruit present, and mineral acidity, while the tannins are warm and splintery, flowing into a clean rather mineral finish with some underlying plum fruit. It needs time, a year or two, and is a little riper than I might have liked, Personal preference.
2 stars

Piaggia Poggio De'Colli IGT Toscana 2009

This is a Cabernet Franc. Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and underbrush mingled with deft red berry fruit and some acidity; nice depth and harmony, and as it opens there are hints of yellow peach as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by peppery spice and tannins that have a warm savory burr, and flow into a clean savory finish with hints of cocoa and underlying berry fruit. A different varietal? Perhaps; it revolves more around finesse than power, though there is that too, and it has nice aging potential as well.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite vegetal, with greenish berry fruit accents mingled with sandalwood and spice that almost brings incense to mind, On the palate it's ample and quite ripe with cherry and back currant-cassis fruit supported by tannins that have an inky graphite shaving overlay, and by minerality more than acidity, which flows into a clean rather mineral tannic finish. It's not quite lush enough to be a sexpot wine, but is pleasingly fruit driven and headed in that direction. If you prefer tighter wines with more acidity and more aggressive tannins it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2009

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is intense and rather vegetal, with red berry fruit supported by cut squash greenness mingled with chalk and a certain acidic sweetness. On the palate it's full, quite riep,a nd fairly sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness as much as acidity and by greenish accents that flow into a clean fairly soft plum finish The ripest, sweetest wine tasted so far, something of a starlet in a glass, and if you like the style, which revolves more around alcohol and sweet ripeness of fruit than tannins or acidity, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is frankly atypical for Carmignano.
1 star


Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite green, with cut squash greenness supported by some sour berry fruit and spice; there's something heady to it. On the palate it's full and quite riep, with greenish cherry plum fruit that whose vegetal accents echo the cut squash on the nose, and flow into a greenish berry fruit finish with savory underpinning that becomes quite splintery. It's rich and a bot overripe, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings; I'd have liked a little more aicifty because as the tannins smooth it will I think become rather brooding.
2 stars

Tenuta la Borriana

Tenuta la Borriana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cassis fruit and some sweetish jammy accents mingled with slight vegetal accents and spice. On the palate it's ample and ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample, with a slight burr, and flow into a slightly splintery fairly sweet fruit laced finish. It's up in the air, but if it comes down right will be pleasant in a ripe soft key.

Tenuta di Capezzana - Some Older Vintages, Tasted at Vinitaly

One of the nicest things about Vinitaly is that some wineries, especially older ones with historic traditions, bring some of their older vintages for visitors to explore. This time Capezzana, whose archives stretch back to the 30s, brought a fascinating set of wines from the more recent past.

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1974

70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo and 10% other traditional varietals, aged 24 months in large (25 hl) casks. Brick with orange rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leather and some Moroccan leather acidity supported by underbrush and some medicinal notes, with underlying eucalyptus and leaf tobacco. Graceful in a fully mature key, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's it's bright, with fairly rich sour prune fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and some leathery accents, while the tannins are quite smooth and have some leafy accents to them. It's graceful, with considerable bright acidity that has provided backbone and both allowed it to reach this age, and given it good potential for the future. A very enjoyable older vintage.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1983

70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo and 10% other traditional varietals, aged 24 months in large (25 hl) casks. Almandine with orangish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and dried flowers supported by clean berry fruit acidity and savory accents with Moroccan leather from old book bindings. Elegant though not as rich as the 74. On the palate it's quite pleasant in a full mature key, with bright tart berry fruit acidity more than fruit, supported by smooth tannins that are silky and savory, and flow into a long tart finish with some tannic underpinning. Though mature it is still quite fresh, and bright, and is a testament to the importance of acidity in red wines because without said acidity it would have settled.
90-91

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1996

80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, aged 12 months in large (23 hl) casks and 12 months in bottle. Deep black almandine with black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory berry fruit supported by balsamic notes and Moroccan leather with some spice. It has quite a bit to say and is quite harmonious. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that are velvety though they do have steely accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with considerable peppery acidity. Quite pleasant, and unlike the older wines, which I would only drink far from the table, will go well with a steak.
88-90

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2000
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Beginning with Stefano Chioccioli's arrival in 1998, Capezzana carried out green harvests in all their vineyards, thus increasing the quality of their grapes to the point that there was little point in making both Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva. Deep brick ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some berry fruit and spice supported by sea salt, some sour berry fruit acidity, and slight leather, with underlying dried flowers. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a long warm finish. By comparison with the older vintages is suffers some and this is because the end of the summer was excruciatingly hot in Tuscany, hot enough that it interfered with ripening.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2006

80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory notes and red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and considerable austerity -- it really isn't at all happy about being on display in the glass. On the palate it's ample and smooth with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long spicy tannic finish. It's quite elegant but simply NOT ready, and needs time. If you have the patience to give it, it will reward you, and the score reflects the present.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2007

80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Bright cherry ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is brighter and readier than that of the 06, and also fresher, which makes sense since it's a year younger; there are red berry fruit and underbrush mingled with vegetal accents and fairly bright acidity, with some underlying goudron. On the palate it's full and rich with powerful red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that do display a slight burr and flow into a long warm fairly bitter finish. It's quite approachable, and at present superior to the 2006 (though its older sibling may pull ahead with time). Quite pleasant, a wine you will set out and drink, and though one usually doesn't say this about wines of this caliber, it applies here.
90-91

Palazzetto Ardi: Entusiasmo!

Some winemakers are shy,and others less so: Carlo Sitizia contacted me in the course of Vinitaly a few years ago and asked me if I would like to come visit his agriturismo and taste his wines.

During Vinitaly wasn't practical, but I drove over towards Vicenza and was very pleased I did. He and his wife, Michela, have taken over a 14th century farm complex that had become a granary/warehouse, and transformed it into Palazzetto Ardi, a beautiful and dynamic farm. They are completely biodynamic, and Michela somehow found time to become an accomplished chef while tending to crops and critters of all kinds. I have posted a number of her recipes on About.Com, and am very pleased to say that they recently held tastings and a dinner in New York, at the Yale Club.

But the object of this post is of course to talk about their wines.

Entusiasmo di Palazzetto Ardi Rosso IGT Veneto 2006
This is a Cabernet; it's pale ruby with white rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively brambly acidity mingled with greenish vegetal accents and savory notes, and underlain by chewy berry fruit. On the palate it's delicate, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth berry fruit acidity,a nd by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish that becomes bfambly as the fruit, cranberry mingled with cherry, fades. It's an extremely welcoming wine, one that you will set out, and people will drink. At which point you'll need another. What more can I say, other than that it will be perfect with simple grilled meats or light stews? Worth seeking out.
88

Entusiasmo di Palazzetto Ardi Rosso IGT Veneto 2007
This is a Cabernet Franc; it's deeper ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with brambly bitterness and some vegetal accents, which gain depth from brisk acidity and sea salt. Quite harmonious, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bitter vegetal accents and some minerality more than fruit; there's also brambly acidity and the tannins are deft and vigorous. In short, scrappy, and though it won't work for you if you look for the fruit driven smoothness of ripe New World wines, if you prefer a more aggressive style it will drink very well with foods, and go very quickly. A particular wine that's not for everyone, but if you like the style you will like it very much.
88-90

Note: Palazzetto Ardi is imported to the US by Green Grape

Palazzetto Ardi's Rosso: A Fine Organic Wine

About 15 years ago I visited an Organic Fair in Piemonte, where about half the booths featured wines. And didn't find one worth drinking: They all stank, and when I said so, the winemakers looked at me with horror in their eyes, and said "But they're Organic!" This quality was, as far as I could tell, the only reason to buy them.

Times have changed considerably, and now the only way you'll be able to tell many wines are organic is to read the fine print on the label. Or to visit the winemaker; Carlo Sitizia contacted me a couple of years ago and asked me if I could stop by Palazzetto Ardi, the place he and Michela Cairolaro had taken over.

I said yes, and after Vinitaly drove towards Vicenza, and then ventured out into the flatlands south of Gambellara following his directions. The road was about as wide as my desk, with a drainage ditch alongside, and I confess to wondering what I was getting into.

All doubts vanished when I turned onto their drive: Palazzetto Ardi is a beautifully restored 17th century farm complex with livestock, fields (Michela was picking asparagus when I arrived), and a small but impeccably kept vineyard. Which produces excellent wine:

Entusiasmo di Palazzetto Ardi Vicenza Doc Rosso 2006
Lot 1/2007
This is a Cabernet; it's delicate ruby with brilliant reflections, and has an elegant bouquet with forest berry fruit supported by cranberry acidity and delicate vegetal accents. Deft, and lithe. On the palate it's medium bodied, with brambley cranberry-forest berry fruit supported by clean scrappy tannins and sour berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fruit-laced finish with cranberry underpinning. Quite nice, in a scrappy tomboyish key, and it was a perfect match for the creamy radicchio risotto my Mother-in-Law was serving as a first ocurse, while it also had the body necessary to work well with the roast lamb that followed it.
Worth seeking out, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

A little more about Palazetto Ardi: Michela and Carlo both did other things before marrying and deciding to withdraw from the grind of city life. And like many people who have decided to follow this path, they have done so with considerable enthusiasm; Michela is an accomplished chef, and in addition to offering hospitality they hold classes for local school children, organize cycle tours, and do much more.

In short, if you're planning to visit the Veneto and are willing to drive or take the train (there's a station nearby) you should consider staying at Palazzetto Ardi.