Tasted at Vinitaly: Carpenè Malvolti

I have always enjoyed Carpenè Malvolti's wines, and make a point of stopping at their stand during Vinitaly to taste both their Prosecco and their Arte della Spumantistica wines, wines made form other grapes (and from other regions) that are quite interesting and quite enjoyable.

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvée Brut Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore 2011
Residual sugar 11 g/liter
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is crisp, with bright green apple and green apple acidity bolstered by some sweetness. Fairly bright. On the palate it's it is bright, with lively fresh apple fruit supported by slightly bitter mineral accents that flow into a fairly mineral finish. It's quite approachable, fresh, and easy to drink.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvée Extra Dry Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco 2011
Residual sugar 15 g/liter
Brassy gold with white rim, and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with freshly cut Golden Delicious apple and some fresh savory notes, and also sour apple acidity that provides a counterpoint. On the palate it's ample and fresh, with fairly sweet fresh bright Delicious apple fruit supported by some apple acidity and underlying minerality. Quite approachable in a simple, direct key, and will be a fine summer wine.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Cartizze 2011
Dry, Residual sugar 21 g/liter
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and fairly sweet with Golden Delicious apples supported by sweetness and some creamy accents. Inviting in a fairly soft key. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with rich sweet Golden Delicious apple fruit supported by Golden Delicious acidity and by pleasant creaminess from the sparkle. Quite approachable, and will be very pleasant as a summer wine to drink with friends in the evening as the stars come out, or even at poolside.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Cuvée Oro DOCG 2011
Dry, Residual sugar 24 g/liter
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich and rather ripe, with ripe Golden Delicious apples mingled with some greenish accents and delicate sugars. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with pleasant Golden Delicious fruit supported by fairly bright Golden Delicious acidity and some mineral accents that flow into a fairly long mineral finish. Pleasant, in a bright, rich key; it's a little fuller and softer than the Cartizze, and which you prefer is up to you. I rather liked the definition of the Cartizze.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvée 1868 Vino Spumante Brut
This is a Metodo Charmat, and spent 9 months on the lees in tank. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, and rather savory, with crisp apple fruit that has some white pear accents and slight gunflint supported by moderate mineral acidity. On the palate it's deft and savory, with fairly bright dried apple fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by a clean, smooth, slightly peppery sparkle. It's quite fresh, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with fush.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti Kerner Brut 2011
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and brilliant brassy highlights, while the perlage is fine. The bouquet is elegant, with rich rather sweet loquat and apricot fruit supported by refreshing coolness and some savory notes. On the palate it's fresh, with lively minerality and dried apple/green apricot fruit supported by moderately intense minerality with some gunflint accents that flow into a sweet rather flinty finish in which savory notes accompany the fruit. It's a little riper and richer than some vintages of Kerner have been, and this is vintage variation at work.
90

Carpenè Malvolti Gevürztraminer Brut 2011
Pale greenish white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with strawberry and yellow peaches mingled with pleasant floral accents and some underlying minerality and sea salt. On the palate it's bright and creamy, with languid rose laced yellow fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity that flows into a long, fresh floral finish with underlying bitter accents. Quite refreshing and is a wine one could drink as an aperitif or serve with the meal. It's a little fresher than the Kerner.
90

Carpenè Malvolti Rosé Cuvée Brut 2011
This is Pinot Nero and Raboso, and is pale rose petal pink tending towards onionskin with white rim and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with raspberry and some forest berry fruit by cool refreshingly flinty minerality and some spice. On the palate it's deft, with delicate red berry fruit -- cassis with some blackberry -- supported by clean mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral laced finish with some savory accents. Deft, and will work very well as an aperitif or with the meal.
90-91

Carpenè Malvolti Millesimato Metodo Classico Brut 2007
This is Chardonnay and Pinot Nero grapes grown in Trentino, which spent 24 months on the lees. Brassy gold with brilliant greenish highlights and brassy reflections, while the perlage is fine and steady. Deft bouquet with fairly intense minerality laced with gunflint and warm citric notes, also some vegetal accents and some wet bread crumbs, peppery spice, and leesy notes. On the palate it's full, and quite mineral, with creaminess from the sparkle and delicate citric accents, while there is some peppery spice from the sparkle, and it flows into a clean mineral finish.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini's Wines: A Gift from Lake Iseo

Wine making regions tend to be pretty, and Franciacorta is prettier than most; it's at the mouth of Lago D'Iseo, an alpine finger lake at the foot of the Val Camonica that would likely drain away into the Pianura Padana were it not for several imposing crescent-shaped end moraines whose height and breadth give a good idea of just how large the ancient Alpine glaciers were.

Within this panorama the Bersi Serlini family, which began making wines in 1886, has been quite fortunate. They are located in the Commune of Provaglio d'Iseo, a short distance from the Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa (the land once belonged to the monks, who hosted travelers where the winery now stands). They have 34 hectares of vineyards that extend down to the lakefront, and while one might wonder at having vineyards along a shore line the effects are quite beneficial; the vineyards are laid out with rows perpendicular to the shore, and during the summer receive the cool nighttime breezes flowing down the Val Camonica, which eliminate the moisture that could cause mold or rot; Maddalena Bersi Serlini notes that because of these breezes they can limit treatments to just copper and sulfur in about half their vineyards.

The harvest in Franciacorta is timed differently than in most other appellations because good acidity levels are of paramount importance for making good sparkling wines. Since acidity decreases with increasing ripeness Franciacorta producers harvest at the beginning of August, and Maddalena says she is always one of the first, as a result her neighbors call her Lumicino, or signal light -- when they see her pickers in the vineyards they know it's time to get ready.

Once the grapes are picked they are soft-pressed and the resultant must descends by gravity feed into the tank hall, where the cellar masters keep it in steel holding tanks briefly, while cooling it, and then transfer it to fermentation tanks. Fermentation is by vineyard; since they are by now quite familiar with their vineyards they have tanks of the proper size for each vineyard. Almost all of their wine ferments in steel, though they do barrel ferment small amounts of wine for their top wines -- about 5% for the two Franciacorta Riserva wines, using year-old barrels purchased from a winemaker who ferments his white in new oak.

The varietal makeup in the vineyards is, as one might expect given Franciacorta, largely Chardonnay, though they do have a little Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero, in hillside vineyards. It is all fermented in white, and this brings up an important point. With the exception of a little red wine they make for local consumption, everything they make is white, and it all sparkles. "I decided, since we're in Franciacorta, that we should concentrate on Franciacorta," Maddalena says, adding that when she made the decision some of the sales reps, who were used to having Bersi Serlini their still wines too, objected.

To be honest, I think she made the correct decision, and expect that they have come around.

The wines, tasted September 18 2011

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta DOCG Brut

LOT 0111b
This is Non Vintage, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco that ages on lees for 21 months, and the vineyards are 15-20 years old. Maddalena says it's their traditional wine, first produced in 1970. Pale greenish straw with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is pleasant, with gunflint and heather supported by some sea salt and wet bread crumbs; pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory citric fruit supported by sparkle and some vegetal notes, and also the sour yeastiness of the lees; nice balance and quite approachable, and will drink quite well with foods, from elegant risotti through fish based pasta sauces, and also fish in general, including lake fish. It is eminently approachable, ripe but not too ripe, with acidity that keeps it on its toes. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta DOCG Brut

Lot 0411B
This is a distinct from the Basic Brut, with a different label, and Maddalena calls it Dedicato, or Dedicated, in that it is a wine bottled for a special event or occasion, in this case Franciacorta's 50th anniversary. They decided to mark the even with a special edition of their Brut -- 100% Chardonnay that spends more time on the lees -- as it is their best selling wine, with a label that reflects their older labels, which were all Liberty. Production is 50,000 bottles, and they view it as an important success, and a reflection of the fact that they believed in and have concentrated exclusively on Franciacorta. The wine is delicate straw yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with rich savory gunflint supported by some vegetal accents and clean fresh bread crumbs; and brings to mind hammer-struck granite. On the palate it's full, rich, and creamy, with deft mineral laced sour lemon fruit supported by creamy sparkle and fairly pronounced underlying bitterness that carries at length into the finish, Quite elegant, and is a wine that will work well with foods, though to be quite honest I would rather sip it as an aperitif, or with friends while talking far from the table, lest the food distract.
90

Bersi Serlini Brut Cuvee N°4 2006

Lot 1210 CV
This is from their four oldest vineyards, all Chardonnay, and a small percentage is fermented in wood. Rest in steel. They consider it to be their most representative wine, and make it in all formats. Since it is a vintage wine it rests longer on lees. Pale straw yellow with greenish reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is deft, with considerable gunflint laced minerality supported by slight hints of citrus and breadcrumbs with slight vanilla accents as well; quite elegant. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean soft sour lemon fruit supported by sparkle and gunflint laced bitterness with an underpinning of butterscotch and some wet bread crumb yeasty accents, which flow into a clean savory finish with lasting gunflint bitterness. Pleasant, and quite welcoming, displaying pleasing deftness and grace; it's a wine that will work with foods, though like the Dedicated Brut it's perhaps better suited to being sipped with friends far from the table. It's the sort of wine one can hold a conversation with.
90-92

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Satèn

Lot 0210 S; it's Non Vintage.
Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with fine steady perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with herbal notes and gunflint mingled with some sea salt and heather. Quite welcoming. On the palate it's ample, approachable, and soft, with moderately intense savory sour lemon fruit supported by sparkle that's not as creamy as the Cuvee 4° though one really cannot expect that, it has a little more backbone and the vegetal accents emerge a little more strongly, making it better suited to accompanying foods; it will be quite versatile at table and go very fast. Easy to drink (though not simple; if you want there is much to think about) and expect people to want more.
88-90

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Extra Brut Riserva 2003

Lot 0611EB
They started making this in 1971, when the only thing one could call it was Extra Brut, and they have kept the name rather than adopt Pas Dosé or Dosage Zero -- they consider it to be their heart & soul, because they don't think Franciacorta requires liqueur or sugars. Well kept vineyards, and that's enough, says Maddalena, adding that of her wines it's what comes closes to what she looks for in Franciacorta . Deeper gold with slight greenish reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with rich green sour lemon supported by savory accents and bread crumbs, and by some gunflint as well. Quite elegant and very enjoyable. On the palate it's deft, with rich sour lemon fruit that has some greenish accents and is supported by sparkle and savory minerality supported by some mineral bitterness that flows into a long bitter finish with slight peppery accents from the sparkle. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif; one could also press it into service with foods but it doesn't need the distraction. A friend occasionally says wines are "lovely," and I think he would say so here.
92-3

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut Vintage Riserva 2003

Lot 0610RT
This is a vineyard wine, from their oldest vineyard -- 46 years old -- and is a Chardonnay, and spent 7 years on lees. It's pale straw gold with slight greenish highlights, and has fine intense perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with gunflint and hammer-struck granite mingled with bitterness and bread crumbs, and with some smoky accents and slight sour lemon. Nice balance and enticing; it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full and creamy, with fullness coming from both bitter minerality and fine sparkle, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quick to write but quite impressive, with minerality playing very well with sparkle and the acidity, which -- thanks to harvesting at the proper time -- is quite sufficient to hold its own despite the heat of the 2003 summer. A delightful sipping wine, and beautiful minerality.
93-4

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Rosé Rosa Rosae Brut

Lot 1210 R
Salmon with some onionskin in the rime, and fine perlage. 30% pn, 24 months on lees. The bouquet is deft, with savory minerality mingled with some gunflint and sea salt, and slight wet bread crumbs. Pleasant in a savory zesty key. On the palate it's bright, with lively minerality and sour berry fruit laced with barest hints of raspberry and supported by mineral acidity and sparkle that flow into a clean rather mineral finish with some peppery notes from the sparkle. It's quite approachable in a fairly muscular, powerful key, and will drink very well with foods; and because it has a bit more body and fullness, will also work well with delicate white meats, for example Spiedo Bresciano, the slow-cooked spitted birds traditionally enjoyed for the winter holidays in Brescia, Expect it to go quickly, and it is versatile too.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta DOCG Nuvola Demi Sec

This is their Demisec, which they have been making for a while -- since 1980. Few wineries make it, but it gives an opportunity to those who want to finish the meal with something less dry. Chardonnay and Pb, on lees for 21 months, and 20-25 g liter of sugar that makes it more balanced. It's pale straw yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some bread crumbs and slight yellow fruit mingled with citric accents and some gunflint; it has nice depth and there are hints of sugar though it's not obviously sweet. On the palate it's elegant, with deft citric accents mingled with gunflint minerality and sweetness that adds body and fullness, and complements the sparkle, flowing into a clean sweet gunflint laced finish that in some ways brings sweet licorice root tio mind -- there's a lot to say, and it is enjoyable and the licorice in the finish carries at length. A fine wine for after a meal, or perhaps with cheeses. Very pleasant.
88-90

An Alternative dessert made with this Demi Sec by clubs in Cesena, a coastal area of Romagna also known for its fruit trees: Slice very ripe peaches cut use the slices to line a balloon glass. Let them rest in the glass for an hour, then add Demi Sec and serve.

As we closed Maddalena said she is much more interested in acidity than alcohol, and firmly believes in low sugar levels for her bubbly. I certainly can't object.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Carpenè Malvolti

I have always enjoyed Carpenè Malvolti's wines, and make a point of stopping at their stand during Vinitaly to taste both their Prosecco (their fist wines, and still the bulk of their wines) and their Arte della Spumantistica wines, wines made primarily from other grapes (and from other regions).

Their Prosecco is a solid interpretation of the varietal, which is consistent from vintage to vintage and quite pleasant to drink, especially if you find the higher acidities that generally are associated with Champagne or some of the other more "serious" sparkling wines a bit much, while the latter are quite interesting and quite enjoyable.


Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Brut 2010
Pale papery white with fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with savory notes and some fresh floral accents, and hints of apple as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively apple fruit supported by fairly bright apple acidity and by the sparkle, which confers a lively fullness. Quite approachable, and will drink nicely either as an aperitif or throughout a meal built around cheeses (risotti and such), fish, or white meats.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Storica 2010
This is their classic Prosecco; it's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with apples and slight crisp sweetness that gives the apples a granny smith cast, and some acidity as well. Nice balance and inviting. On the palate it's bright, and moderately sweet, with fairly rich apple fruit that gains creaminess from the sparkle, and support from deft granny smith apple acidity, and flows into a clean fresh apple finish with underlying sweetish minerality. Quite approachable, and will work very well as an aperitif. It's a little more languid than the cuvee brut, and a touch sweeter, and as a result is perhaps less suited to the table. 2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Oro Prosecco Dry 2010
Brassy white with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with delicious apples and some mentholated spice, supported by some sugars. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with delicious apples supported by sparkle, which confers creaminess, and apple acidity that flows into a fairly long clean apple laced finish. Its quite approachable in a sweeter key -- that's what Dry is -- and will work well as an aperitif if you prefer somewhat sweeter wines, or with friends at poolside or in the evening as the stars come out. It's not, to my way of thinking, as well suited to being drunk with a meal.
1 star

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Petit Manseng Brut 2010
Ale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and some savory notes mingled with slight savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich bitter minerality supported by some honeysuckle and slight orange peel with hints of candied orange bitterness, and it flows into a clean savory finish. Approachable, in a fairly delicate key, and will be a pleasant aperitif, while it will also work well with delicately flavored dishes throughout a meal.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Viognier Brut 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate citrus laced acidity -- oranges and hints tangerine -- supported by airiness and some herbal accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, and though brut not bone dry; there's moderately intense lemony fruit supported by warmth and minerality, and creaminess form sparkle, which flow into a fairly long orange and tangerine finish witl underlying minerality. It will be nice as an aperitif or with the meal, working well with fish and also delicate white meats.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cerszegy Brut 2010
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with elegant lemony fruit supporte dby peppery notes and a certain airiness that is also the sparkle, and by some floral accents as well. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with clean bright mienrlaity and some candied orange peel with the bitterness that comes from the caramelization of the sugars, and pleasant savory underpinning that carries through into the finish, which is fairly loing and rather peppery. Quite enjoyable, and will work well as an aperitif or with grilled fish, inclusing fattier fish such as salmon.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Kerner Brut 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents and white berry fruit supported by deft white berry fruit acidity and some sweet notes; it's quite pleasant and very fresh. On the palate it's rich, with powerful apple fruit laced with some loquat acidity and supported by clean minerality, while the sparkle confers a pleasant fullness, and it flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish with slight peppery notes from the sparkle and sea salt that leaves one wanting another sip. Quite pleasant and will work beautifully as an aperitif or throughout the meal. Quite enjoyable.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Rosato Brut 2010
Pale pink with salmon reflections, white rim and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with some red berry fruit and moderate mineral acidity; it's quick to write but quite harmonious and pleasant. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with fresh raspberry fruit supported by pleasant mineral acidity and by sparkle, which confers fullness, while the finish is long and mineral, leaving the palate quite clean. It's quite approachable and will work very well as an aperitif, and also throughout the meal; expect people to like it and ask for more.
90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cuvée 1868 Brut 2010
This is a special wine developed for Italy's 150th anniversary, from Prosecco, Verdiso, Boschera, Pinot Bianco and Incrocio Manzoni. It's brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense and complex, with citrus -- orange -- and apple fruit mingled with spice and some minerality, and some greenish vegetal accents as well. Nice depth and pleasingly complex in a young key. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral laced apple fruit that gains direction from some sour lemon acidity and is supported by creamy pepperiness form sparkle, and flows into a clean bright sour aplle finish with underlying peppery notes and sea salt. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with the meal; it's not quite as bright as some of the others but displays a little more depth.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Gewürztraminer Brut 2010
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with fairly rich floral accents supported by slight sea salt and deft acidity. Quite refreshing. On the palate it's fairly full, with delicate lemony fruit supported by pleasant minerality and some greenish accents that flow into a fairly long lemony finish with greenish mineral underpinning. It's quite approachable, and very much alive thanks to its acidity, and will drink nicely as an apritif or with flavorful fish, including salmon, or also creamy dishes, and if you wanted to do something decidedly adventurous you moght serve it with fried fish and vegetables.
90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cartizze 2010
Cartizze is the finest hill in Prosecco, and it is in a way surprising that Carpenè Malvolti waited so long to bring out their wine from the hillside's vineyards. It's pale papery yellow with brassy reflections and very fine very intense perlage, and has an elegant bouquet with apples laced with some crisp notes and slight apple acidity; the overall impression is one of considerable harmony. On the palate it's rich, with powerful apple fruit supported by mineral acidity that has some granny smith overtones and slight sweetness, not so much as to make it cloying -- by a long shot -- and it flows into along clean granny smith apple finish with slight sweetness. Quite nice, and will work very well as an aperitif, or with the meal; it's a wine that will drink very well with the meal and that will also be nice with friends far from the table, say when the stars are coming out as the sky darkens in summer.
90-91

Another Quick Look At Carpenè Malvolti

I have always enjoyed Carpenè Malvolti's wines, and make a point of stopping at their stand during Vinitaly to taste both their Prosecco and their Arte della Spumantistica wines, wines made primarily from other grapes (and from other regions).

Their Prosecco is a solid interpretation of the varietal, which is consistent from vintage to vintage and quite pleasant to drink, especially if you find the higher acidities that generally are associated with Champagne or some of the other more "serious" sparkling wines a bit much, while the latter are quite interesting and quite enjoyable.

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Brut 2010
Pale papery white with fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with savory notes and some fresh floral accents, and hints of apple as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively apple fruit supported by fairly bright apple acidity and by the sparkle, which confers a lively fullness. Quite approachable, and will drink nicely either as an aperitif or throughout a meal built around cheeses (risotti and such), fish, or white meats.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Storica 2010
This is their classic Prosecco; it's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with apples and slight crisp sweetness that gives the apples a granny smith cast, and some acidity as well. Nice balance and inviting. On the palate it's bright, and moderately sweet, with fairly rich apple fruit that gains creaminess from the sparkle, and support from deft granny smith apple acidity, and flows into a clean fresh apple finish with underlying sweetish minerality. Quite approachable, and will work very well as an aperitif. It's a little more languid than the cuvee brut, and a touch sweeter, and as a result is perhaps less suited to the table.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Cuvee Oro Prosecco Dry 2010
Brassy white with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with delicious apples and some mentholated spice, supported by some sugars. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with delicious apples supported by sparkle, which confers creaminess, and apple acidity that flows into a fairly long clean apple laced finish. Its quite approachable in a sweeter key -- that's what Dry is -- and will work well as an aperitif if you prefer somewhat sweeter wines, or with friends at poolside or in the evening as the stars come out. It's not, to my way of thinking, as well suited to being drunk with a meal.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Petit Manseng Brut 2010
Ale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and some savory notes mingled with slight savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich bitter minerality supported by some honeysuckle and slight orange peel with hints of candied orange bitterness, and it flows into a clean savory finish. Approachable, in a fairly delicate key, and will be a pleasant aperitif, while it will also work well with delicately flavored dishes throughout a meal.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Viognier Brut 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate citrus laced acidity -- oranges and hints tangerine -- supported by airiness and some herbal accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, and though brut not bone dry; there's moderately intense lemony fruit supported by warmth and minerality, and creaminess form sparkle, which flow into a fairly long orange and tangerine finish witl underlying minerality. It will be nice as an aperitif or with the meal, working well with fish and also delicate white meats.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cerszegi Brut 2010
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with elegant lemony fruit supporte dby peppery notes and a certain airiness that is also the sparkle, and by some floral accents as well. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with clean bright mienrlaity and some candied orange peel with the bitterness that comes from the caramelization of the sugars, and pleasant savory underpinning that carries through into the finish, which is fairly loing and rather peppery. Quite enjoyable, and will work well as an aperitif or with grilled fish, inclusing fattier fish such as salmon.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Kerner Brut 2010
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents and white berry fruit supported by deft white berry fruit acidity and some sweet notes; it's quite pleasant and very fresh. On the palate it's rich, with powerful apple fruit laced with some loquat acidity and supported by clean minerality, while the sparkle confers a pleasant fullness, and it flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish with slight peppery notes from the sparkle and sea salt that leaves one wanting another sip. Quite pleasant and will work beautifully as an aperitif or throughout the meal. Quite enjoyable.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Rosato Brut 2010
Pale pink with salmon reflections, white rim and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with some red berry fruit and moderate mineral acidity; it's quick to write but quite harmonious and pleasant. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with fresh raspberry fruit supported by pleasant mineral acidity and by sparkle, which confers fullness, while the finish is long and mineral, leaving the palate quite clean. It's quite approachable and will work very well as an aperitif, and also throughout the meal; expect people to like it and ask for more.
90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cuvée 1868 Brut 2010
This is a special wine developed for Italy's 150th anniversary, from Prosecco, Verdiso, Boschera, Pinot Bianco and Incrocio Manzoni. It's brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense and complex, with citrus -- orange -- and apple fruit mingled with spice and some minerality, and some greenish vegetal accents as well. Nice depth and pleasingly complex in a young key. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral laced apple fruit that gains direction from some sour lemon acidity and is supported by creamy pepperiness form sparkle, and flows into a clean bright sour aplle finish with underlying peppery notes and sea salt. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with the meal; it's not quite as bright as some of the others but displays a little more depth.
88-90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Gewürztraminer Brut 2010
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with fairly rich floral accents supported by slight sea salt and deft acidity. Quite refreshing. On the palate it's fairly full, with delicate lemony fruit supported by pleasant minerality and some greenish accents that flow into a fairly long lemony finish with greenish mineral underpinning. It's quite approachable, and very much alive thanks to its acidity, and will drink nicely as an apritif or with flavorful fish, including salmon, or also creamy dishes, and if you wanted to do something decidedly adventurous you moght serve it with fried fish and vegetables.
90

Carpenè Malvolti L'Arte Spumantistica Cartizze 2010
Cartizze is the finest hill in Prosecco, and it is in a way surprising that Carpenè Malvolti waited so long to bring out their wine from the hillside's vineyards. It's pale papery yellow with brassy reflections and very fine very intense perlage, and has an elegant bouquet with apples laced with some crisp notes and slight apple acidity; the overall impression is one of considerable harmony. On the palate it's rich, with powerful apple fruit supported by mineral acidity that has some granny smith overtones and slight sweetness, not so much as to make it cloying -- by a long shot -- and it flows into along clean granny smith apple finish with slight sweetness. Quite nice, and will work very well as an aperitif, or with the meal; it's a wine that will drink very well with the meal and that will also be nice with friends far from the table, say when the stars are coming out as the sky darkens in summer.
90-91

Angiuli Donato: Eye-Opening Wines from Gioa Del Colle and the Val D'Itria, Revisited

Donato Angiuli is a small winemaker located in Gioia del Colle that Enzo Scivetti introduced me to last year at Vinitaly. The wines were a revelation then and continue to be one now. Truth be told, Enzo took me to see him because of a white, rather than the reds that are the mainstay of production, and I returned as much for it this year as for the reds.

A word of explanation: Though the winery is located in Gioa Del Colle, they also have some vineyards in the Valle D'Itria, home to some of Puglia's finest white wines, and in addition to making a Verdeca, are reviving an almost forgotten grape called Maruggio, which they are producing in a sparkling version that is -- so far as I know -- unique.

It's sparkling, and though the sparkle is obtained through bottle fermentation it's not obtained by the Metodo Classico. Rather, they ferment the wine almost to completion in tank, and then bottle it, thus capturing the last of the gasses produced by the primary fermentation, and producing the sparkle. The bottles are then disgorged, topped off, and recorked, and that's it.

Sounds odd, but Donato says it's how the farmers of the area used to make a little sparkling wine, and when the university people who are studying Maruggio suggested he make it sparkle, he decided to use the old technique.
Angiuli Donato Spumante Binaco Brut
This is from Maruggio and is bottle fermented (look up last year) Pale milky yellowish white with fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fresh and savory with considerable sea salt and some yeasty notes that almost bring whey to mind, and also some citric accents. On the palate it's full, with the fullness coming from both wine and sparkle, and decidedly savory, with underlying minerality and slight citric accents that fade as the finish come forth, giving way to the mineral acidity that continues throughout, mineral accents, and slight sea salt. It's a very, very different sparkling wine and one that isn't for everyone, but if you like deft savory sparkle supported by mineral acidity you will enjoy it. It stands out, and is worth seeking out if you like this kind of wine.
2 stars

This year, something new:

Angiuli Donato Spumante Rosato Brut
This is made from Malvasia Nera and Montepulciano, with indigenous yeasts as is the case with the Bianco. It's pale slightly cloudy pink with fine white perlage, and has a bright bouquet with savory notes mingled with raspberries and some vegetal accents. Bracing. On the palate it's dry, with mineral laced sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and savory accents, with some underlying bitterness, that carry into the finish. It's not quite as full as the Bianco because the sparkle isn't quite as powerful, but does have considerable character, and if you like this sort of thing you will enjoy it. It's not for all, but will hit the spot perfectly for some and be a nice apritif
2 stars

Angiuli Donato Maccone Moscato Bianco Puglia IGT 2010 This is dry, to go well with crustaceans and other things along those lines. The wine is brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly greenish honeysuckle supported by clover honey and some dried apricot with underlying savory accents. It's quite pleasant to sniff, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample, and dry (as dry as a Moscato can be), with rich loquat and dried apricot fruit supported by deft apricot acidity that gains depth and complexity from considerable savory notes, and flows into a clean savory loquat laced finish with some minerality as well. Very nice, and will work well with crustaceans, and also be a nice wine for antipsti, especially fish or cheese based, and I could see it working well with a frittata on a hot summer's day.
90-92

Maccone Rosso Vino Da Tavola
This is a 2008, obtained from red grapes (Primitivo) trained in the Alberello, or bush style. 17 gradi, 17% alcohol. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim, and has an elegant bouquet with prunes and cherry fruit supported by deft sandalwood and spice with some hints of bramble as well. Quite harmonious. On the palate it's full, and rich, with sweet plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly dry finish with underlying tannic bitterness and more sweetness that is a consequence of alcohol; it's absolutely classic and very pleasant, and if you like this sort of extreme Primitivo (which isn't for everyone) you will enjoy it very much.
88-90

Maccone Primitivo Dolce Puglia IGT 2007
This is again from vines trained in the Alberello style. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim, and has a powerful, sweet bouquet with iodine laced jammy plum fruit and some savory balsamic accents, also slight seas alt. Quite a lot to say. On the palate it's full and sweet, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have some sandalwood accents, and as the richness of the fruit fades some warmth that continues at great length, while the fruit works from underneath to provide a sweet counterpart. It's very fine, and a superb expression of Primitivo Dolce, which I would rank among the finest sweet wines in the world, bar none.
92-3

The 2010 Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante

During the summer months one of the nicest simple wines to break out is Bardolino Chiaretto, an eminently drinkable rosè made from the same varietals -- Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara -- also used to make Bardolino, which is red.

Some of the region's winemakers also make a sparkling version of Bardolino Chiaretto, Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante. Which can be even nicer.

The 2010 vintage was relatively cool and wet, which makes for lively acidities, and the 2010 Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante, lightly chilled, will be quite nice at cookouts or picnics, and also be a pleasant vino a tutto pasto, (to be drunk throughout the meal) that will work quite well with lighter summer dishes, including pasta salads, stuffed vegetables, and meat dishes served cool.

The wines, tasted on March 5 2011, in the order listed in the Banco D'Assaggio Catalog:

Fulvio Benazzoli

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Brut 2010
Pale salmon pink with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with wild strawberries and some minty herbal notes laced with sweetness of strawberry jam. Quite fresh. On the palate it's lively, with bright mineral strawberry fruit supported by both sparkle and by some mineral acidity, and flows into a long peppery finish with some pungency from the sparkle. Quite pleasant in a fresh lively key and will work very well with simple pasta dishes or risotti -- vegetable based, with fish -- and will also be nice wi5th creamy main courses, while one could push it into service with pizza too. In short, versatile, and one could also drink it lightly chilled far from the table. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cà Bottura

Spumante Cà Bottura 2010
Pale rose with brilliant pink reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly fresh, and rather mineral, with some berry fruit and some bitterness with slight sweetish accents and hints of bramble. On the palate it's fairly bright, with bitter brambly berry fruit supported by minerality and sparkle that flow into a clean rather bitter brambly finish. It's fairly direct, and more of a food wine than a wine to drink far from the table.
1 star

Cantina Caorsa

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale onionskin salmon with fine white perlage that's quite persistent. The bouquet is fairly bright, with brambly sparkle and some minerality laced with slight pungency and hints of wet bread. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich bh fruit that has slight blackberry accents and is supported by both sparkle and berry fruit acidity, and flows into a fresh sour finish that gains depth from peppery sparkle. The nose is a little behind at present, but it's pleasant in a sunny sort of way and will work nicely as an aperitif, or with creamy first course dishes, and could also be pleasant at table with creamy main course dishes. Friendly, and this is what Chiaretto is all about. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale rose pink with fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and strawberry fruit supported by slight sweetness and slight menthol. Fresh. On the palate it revolves more around minerality and savoriness than fruit, with considerable sea salt and underlying bitter accents that flow into a long bitter finish that gains brightness from sparkle. It's up front, will work nicely as an aperitif and will also work well with creamy dishes, both first course and main, and will go quickly.
1 star

Bergamini

Bergamini Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale rose pink with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky cherry and sour raspberry fruit supported by some leafy underbrush pungency and brambly minerality. On the palate it's quite mineral, with savory brambly accents and peppery sparkle supporting it, and it flows into a clean mineral finish that gains depth from peppery sparkle notes. It's pleasant in a direct key, and will work well as an aperitif or with simple creamy dishes; expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Casaretti

Casaretti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale salmon pink with fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly bright, with jammy berry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and some sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with greenish mineral cherry fruit supported by savory notes and sparkle, and flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. It will work nicely as an aperitif, and also has enough force in a fairly direct key, to work well with lake fish or similar. It will go quickly.
1 star

Natale Castellani

Natale Castellani Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante
This is a Metodo Classico.
Pale onionskin with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with jammy cherry raspberry fruit that has some blackberry sweetness and slight savory acidity that adds grace. Pleasant to sniff., and as it opens there are also savory greenish accents. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and by pepperiness from the sparkle, which flows into a clean bright raspberry finish with some underlying bitter mineral accents. Graceful, and distinct from the rest of the field; it's a wine that will work quite nicely as an aperitif, or with richer creamier dishes, or lake fish, and will also be nice with friends far from the table.
88-90

Costadoro

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale salmon pink with brassy salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lively wild strawberries supported by some vegetal notes and slight savoriness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour strawberry raspberry fruit with lively peppery accents from the sparkle, with provides considerable fullness, and by lively berry fruit acidity with some savory minerality that flows into a clean bright finish that has some mineral accents and fades into sea salt. Quite pleasant, and quite versatile; it will work well from aperitif though creamy second course dishes. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

F.lli Zeni

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Brut 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich in a direct key, with berry fruit supported by some pungency and slight jammy accents; there's not much acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich jammy fruit supported by slight sweetness and moderate mineral acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's up front, and quite direct, and will work nicely with an aperitif or with creamy dishes.
1 star

Le Tende

Le Tende Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante Brut 2010
Salmon pink with brilliant salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with intense slightly greenish minerality supported by some berry fruit and cut flowers with some underlying dusky bitterness. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively savory raspberry cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with sour berry fruit underpinning and peppery notes from the sparkle. It will be quite versatile, and though rather direct will go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Monte Oliveto

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale almost onionskin pink with fine white perlage and brilliant onionskin reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly minerality and a degree of pungent cut flours with some savory accents as well. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderately intense berry fruit that has some sweetish accents and is supported by sparkle and bitter undertones that flow into a fairly long bitter finish It's pleasant in a fairly direct key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with creamy dishes.
1 star

Roeno

Roeno Bardolino Chiaretto Matì Rosè 2010
Pale onionskin pink with brilliant reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly mineral with some brambly accents and slight brambly fruit that is supported by some mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by scrappy brambly accents and bitter minerality that flows into a fairly bitter finish that gains depth from minerality. It's pleasant in a rather mineral key, and will be quite versatile at the table.
2 stars

La Prebenda

La Prebenda Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale salmon pink with brilliant salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly more vegetal and brambly than many, with some red berry fruit and sea salt as well. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some bitterness, while there is also some sour berry fruit acidity, and it flows into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with some peppery notes. It's fairly direct, but has a scrappy liveliness to it, and will be quite nice with rich foods, including fried fish. It grew on me.
2 stars

Enzo Righetti

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich in a direct key, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish pungent accents and hints of mentholated sweetness. On the palate it's decidedly sweet by comparison with the rest of the field, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit minerality that gains depth from the sparkle, and flows into a fairly long rather sweet finish with some bitter underpinning as well. It's more direct than some, and there is the sweetness, which will make it more of a wine to drink as an aperitif than with the meal, I think.
1 star

San Zeno

San Zeno Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale salmon pink with salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with cut flowers and fairly intense minerality mingled with some savory notes as well. On the palate it's fairly direct, with powerful mineral laced sour cherry fruit supported by bitter accents and sparkle, which flow into a fairly long savory finish with lasting bitterness and sparkle. Pleasant in a direct key and will be versatile, working well with a variety of foods, from antipasti through fried fish or fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Tre Colline

Tre Colline Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bitter accents, mingled with minerality and spice. On the palate it's moderately sweet and quite mineral with some underlying savory accents that carry into a fairly mineral finish that gains depth from savory sparkle.
1 star

Valletti

Valletti Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale onionskin pink with brilliant almost brassy reflections and fine white perlage. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some bitter pungency that brings wet leaves to mind. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant sour berry fruit supported by minerality and berry fruit acidity, and by peppery accents from the sparkle, which flow into a clean bright mineral finish with cherry raspberry underpinning with slight sweetness that provides a bit of roundness. It's graceful in a bright key, and will be quite versatile at table, and because of the sweetness that underpins it. Will also be nice with friends far from the table when you want a wine to open and drink without making it the center of attention.
2 stars

Vigneti Villabella

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Chiaretto Spumante 2010
Pale pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is pungent, with slightly bitter brambly accents that are clearly youth, and as they blow away jammy berry fruit with fairly bright berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bright mineral laced sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity that carries into a long mineral finish that gains depth from the sparkle, and slight underlying bitterness. It's pleasant in a scrappy tomboyish key, and because of its acidity will work well with a variety of dishes, including the fried meats or fish that are so nice on a hot day. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Garantito IGP: Lambrusco Mon Amour!

This time Carlo Macchi takes the stage:

This isn't an article, but an act of love. The object of my desires is sparkling, lively, redolent of youth and freshness. Some consider the way it presents itself to others simple, and obvious, but instead there's depth, complexity, and harmony. My problem, as an old man with wants, is that it's not just young, but also male, at least from the standpoint of the Italian language. Before anyone says I'm crazy, or perhaps worse, let me state the object of my desires: Lambrusco.

A few days ago I took an in-depth look at Lambrusco with several friends from Winesurf: Sorbara, Grasparossa, Reggiano, Emilia IGT, dry, and sweet, for a total of more than 60 wines. You'll find the technical notes on Winesurf, but here I want to give space to a passion kept bridled for years, which now wants to reassert itself.

"Agnosco veteris vestigia flammae," says Virgil, referring to Dido, who confesses the passion awoken by Aeneas to her sister Ann. I, a new decidedly masculinized and aged Dido, confessed to Giovanni Dorelli, who in no way resembles the sister of the unfortunate queen, the reawakening of my love not for Aeneas (Thank God!) but for Lambrusco. This while our tasting led us from the austere Sorbara to the sanguine Grasparossa, via the opulent Reggiani and the enticing IGT Emilia.

When was my passion born? In 2003, when I was directing a wine guide that was quite innovative for the Italian wine scene of the time. Among the few wines to receive the maximum score was a Lambrusco Grasparossa of absolute goodness. That Lambrusco made me thing long and hard about the concept of quality in wine, which then firmly revolved around all-powerful oak, austere tannins, rigidity on the nose, and agings that were often improbable but beyond discussion. Then there was this Lambrusco, costing a pittance, that wrapped you in a blanket of blackberry and strawberry aromas, drawing you in with elegant full creaminess, and satisfying you with a long, fresh, solid palate. For the experts of the time it suffered however from an insurmountable defect: like the proverbial crickets it lasted just one summer, couldn't age, and therefore couldn't increase in complexity, and so on. Even so, everyone who tasted it was bowled over, not giving a whit about its non-ageworthyness, also because there was no way it could last, given the fact that if you opened a bottle you'd drink it in the bat of an eye.

Since then my relationship with Lambrusco, well, I won't say it cooled, but it became like that of the man who marries a fantastic woman, and then, since he sees her from dawn to dusk, no longer appreciates her the way he should. Every now and again I'd drink one, thinking of the bolt from the blue that struck me on the road from Scandino to Canossa, and carry on.

Last week I heard the calls of the sirens loud and clear, even though the place I tasted (the Enoteca Regionale dell'Emilia Romagna in Dozza) is far from their island. Fortunately their call didn't lead me to drown myself in a sea of Lambrusco, but to taste with steadily increasing attention, finding first in the Sorbara floral and cherry accents, and then in the Grasparossa and the Reggiano that torrent of red and black fruit that, together with the creamy freshness and the pungent harmony of the sparkle, had pierced my heart.

But let's set these golden visions aside and get serious. I hadn't expected to find, among the more than 60 Lambruschi of various kinds we tasted, that many good and even excellent wines. Our average scores (upcoming on Winesurf) were high, and, more importantly, only a few wines displayed serious problems on the nose.

Someone will surely note (and if you don't I will for you) that this is the first IGP post I have dedicated to wine. Why? Because to break this fast I needed a special wine, an almost non-wine for those used to rubbing shoulders with Burgundy, the wines of the Langhe, Bordeaux, and Supertuscans. This "non-wine" has every right to take its place among the great wines of the world, and needs only a little more self confidence to grow further, leaving by the wayside a few stylistic imperfections due more to the countryside than the cellars.

Whether one talks of fermentation in tank or in bottle, now there are many Lambruschi on the market that, for less than 10 Euros, will make you hear the siren's call. Try and you'll see, but do lash yourself to the nearest mast before you do...


A note: I don't usually add to IGP posts, but thought you might be interested in my recent writup of Moro Rinaldini, of a very traditional Lambrusco producer who also bottle-ferments some of her wines.


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.


We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Tasted at Vinitaly: Villa

Villa's Alessandro Bianchi was one of the first to believe in the Franciacorta region's potential for making great sparkling wines, and the estate continues to be a leader, both in terms of the quality of the wines, and in terms of promotion -- one of the major problems besetting sparkling wines in Italy is the perception that they are either suited to toasts, if dry, or to desserts, if sweeter. You will also encounter them as aperitifs, but are much less likely to be served one between the beginning and the end of the meal.

A pity, because a good sparkling wine can work wonders with all sorts of dishes, from risotti and pasta dishes through fish and meats, and to draw attention to this fact the Bianchi family has organized several editions of a program called Sparkling Menu, in which they ask chefs of top restaurants throughout Italy (and beyond) to build menus around one of their Franciacorta wines; the participants at the dinners rate the recipes (and the wine-food pairings), and the chefs who did the top-rated recipes in the various categories (antipasti, firsts, seconds and so on) are invited to Monticelli Brusati for a final dinner, at the end of which the most successful dish and pairing receive an award.

It's an excellent idea others should pick up on, and a few years ago I was enthralled by a delicately roasted bird prepared by one of the chefs for the finale -- a pigeon perhaps -- that was superb with bubbly. Wouldn't have thought it, but it was.

This year Roberta and Paolo (Alessandro's daughter and son-in-law) presented a couple of new wines, one of which would have gone perfectly with the above mentioned pigeon.

Villa Franciacorta Satèn 2007
100% Chardonnay, 30 months on the lees. Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is rich, with mineral accents supported by sour lemon and some delicate breadcrumbs. Quite welcoming. On the palate it's smooth and rich, with fairly intense lemony fruit supported by acidity and peppery accents from the sparkle, and by sea salt that flows into a fairly long soft savory finish. Quite pleasant and very approachable; it will work well as an aperitif or with simple fish or white meats, and also with vegetable based risotti. It's a little too soft for fattier risotti along the lines of cheese & truffles.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Brut 2007
This is 85% Chardonnay, 5 % Pinot Bianco and 10% Pinot Nero; it spends 30 months on the lees. It's pale brassy yellow with fine steady perlage. The bouquet is pleasant, with elegant lemony citrus fruit supported by minerality and some breadcrumbs, and by slight gunflint as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with the sparkle conferring a pleasant peppery fullness, while the wine is fairly rich, with savory sour lemon fruit supported by mineral accents that flow into a clean fresh savory finish. Quite pleasant in an approachable key -- it's a brut but is not tremendously acidic -- and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif, and will also be a nice wine to drink with a meal built around cheese (say an elegant cheesy risotto), fish, or white meats.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Extra Blu Extra Brut 2006
A new entry, this is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Nero; some of the base wine spends 3 months in wood, and then it spends 48 months on the lees. The name, Extra Blu, is a reference to the marine origins of the sediments in the vineyard, and in terms of positioning it's mid-way between the Brut and the Pas Dosé. It's pale brassy yellow with fine intense perlage, and has an elegant bouquet with bread crumbs and gunflint supporting savory minerality and some sea salt; there's also slight sour lemon fruit that provides depth. On the palate it's ample, and dry, with bright minerality and gunflint that gains support and airiness from the sparkle, and flows into a clean fresh gunflint laced finish with underlying minerality and sparkle, which continues at length. Quite pleasant, and though one could happily drink it as an aperitif, it will also drink nicely with foods, ranging from elegant first course dishes (white fish-based risotto comes to mind), cheese dishes, and also fish or white meats. It's versatile, and very pleasant to drink.
90-91

Villa Diamant Franciacorta 2005 Pas Dosé
85% Chardonnay 15% Pinot Nero. Some of the base wine ages in wood for 6 months, and then it spends 48 months on the lees. Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections, greenish highlights, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with gunflint and minerality supported by wet bread crumbs and slight hints of butterscotch and sea salt; it's quite harmonious and pleasant to sniff in a bracing sort of way. On the palate it's full, with some of the fullness coming from the sparkle, and quite bracing, with powerful minerality and mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish. It has zing, of the sort I look for in a quality sparkling wine. It's not as approachable as some of the other wines -- rather it demands one's attention -- but it has a great deal to say, and the cooler wetter weather of the 2005 summer only helps matters by increasing acidity and minerality. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
92-3

Villa Cuvette Franciacorta Brut 2005
85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir; some spends time in oak, and then it spends 42 months on the lees. Brassy gold with brilliant greenish gold reflections. The bouquet is powerful and rich, with sour lemony fruit supported by considerable gunflint and savory accents, with underlying wet bread crumbs. By comparison with the Pas Dosé it's a little more harmonious, and also has slightly more gunflint. On the palate it's ample, rich, and creamy, with fairly intense bitter gunflint supported by creamy sparkle and bitter mineral acidity that flows into a clean warm rather mineral finish. Very pleasant, with considerable character and harmony, and also extremely approachable; the Pas Dosé is a bit more demanding, whereas this is more welcoming. It's a question of degrees, and which you will prefer will depend upon your taste.
90

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2004
80 Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero, the base then spends 6 months in wood and 60 months on the lees. It's pale brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy reflections, while the perlage is very fine and persistent. The bouquet is elegant, with savory mineral accents laced with sour lemon acidity and slight wet bread crumbs; great harmony and finesse., and quite pleasant to swish and sniff. On the palate it's, well, the word "good" comes to mind; by comparison with the 2005 wines it's a little less acidic, but displays beautiful gunflint minerality and savory notes supported by creamy sparkle and some bitter accents that flow into a clean fresh finish with underlying savory lemon and gunflint bitterness. Quite deft, and very elegant; it will drink nicely as an aperitif and it will be perfect for roasting or drinking with friends far from the table, or, if you want to be extravagant, you could drink it with crustaceans or even oysters.
92

Note -- this was the last wine of the second day at Vinitaly.

Villa Franciacorta Brut Rosé 2007
They have increased the pinot noir to above 40% and the wine spends 30 months on the lees. Pretty onionskin with brilliant brassy reflections and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and slight hints of forest berry fruit supported by gunflint, breadcrumbs, and savory accents. On the palate it's full, with the fullness coming from both sparkle and minerality, and quite refreshing, with bright minerality and acidity that flow into a clean dry finish. Very pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with foods, and in terms of pairings I might think of delicate white meats, while a fellow taster liked it with spicy foods. The first wine of the day, and it's an auspicious beginning.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Demisec
This isn't a vintage wine, because the Disciplinare says no vintages should be applied to sweeter bubbly, a policy one can agree with or not, but that must be followed. The wine is all 2007 however. Pale onionskin with fine insistent perlage. The bouquet is bright and rich, with sweetness mingled with some raspberry fruit and slight savory notes that add depth and freshness. Inviting. On the palate it's full and rich with dusky raspberry fruit supported by minerality and acidity, while the sparkle also confers fullness, and it flows into a clean bright fairly mineral finish. Quite pleasant, and is a wine that will work well with piquant cheeses, or with wild berry fruit and other fresh desserts. It's also a wine one could open on a summer evening while watching the stars come out.
90

Campei Sebino IGT 2010
Tank sample
This is a Chardonnay; it's brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections, and has an elegant bouquet with greenish vegetal accents mingled with heather and slight tart fruit, which is between citrus and slightly towards apple. Refreshing, and there is also underlying minerality. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant mineral laced heather and citrus that is quite smooth and flows into a ling delicate citrus with slightly greenish mineral underpinning. Quite pleasant, and promises very well. With respect to the last vintage, it's a little tighter and not quite as beckoning (the Italian word would be ruffiano, which -- in this context -- would be a girl giving a boy a come-hither look)

Pian della Villa Curtefranca DOC 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant minerality and hints of butterscotch supported by some gunflint and underlying white fruit, which is towards apple. On the palate it's graceful, and quite mineral, with minerality and mineral acidity that are quite harmonious, and flow into a clean mineral finish. Pleasant, in a delicate key, and will drink nicely with fish, and also be a nice aperitif.
2 stars

Villa Curtefranca DOC Rosso 2007
This is the last vintage of Curtefranca Rosso -- they will be shifting to Sabino IGT because changes to the Disciplinare will further limit the amount of Barbera and Nebbiolo the wine can contain, something they don't want to do because on their lands Barbera and Nebbiolo grow well. The bouquet is bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and some underbrush. Quite fresh. On the palate it's light, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have slight brambly accents and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with deft savory tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and quite versatile, from red sauced pasta dishes through simple grilled meats and light stews. You will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Villa Curtefranca DOC Gradoni 2007
Deep cherry ruby with lively cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by brambly greenish accents and some vegetal notes. Nice depth and balance, and very fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite elegant, with rich red berry fruit, sour cherries in particular, though there are also black currants and hints of blueberry, supported by lively berry fruit acidity supported by very smooth sweet tannins; it's quite graceful and very young. One could drink it now with a steak and be very happy, or -- if one has a case -- keep it for 5-6 years, and then open a bottle a year for a number of years.
90-91

Villa Querqus 2007 Sebino IGT Merlot
Deep ruby with violet in the rim. The bouquet is unmistakably Merlot, with rich cassis supported by some graphite shavings and hints of underbrush, and also some alcohol. On the palate it's deft, and very smooth, with moderately intense cassis fruit supported by tannins so smooth they seem smaller than they are, and by deft mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long deft finish with some graphite shavings and deft fruit that continues at length. Quite pleasant but one-track; it's a Merlot and with respect to the Gradoni lacks the complexity that the other varietals confer. If you like Merlot you will like it very much, but if you are less of a devotee you may find more satisfaction with the Gradoni.
2 stars

For more information on Villa (they have a beautiful agriturismo too) see their site.

La Scolca: An Overview

La Scolca is one of Gavi's historic wineries, and on the international stage it is probably the best known Gavi producer. However, it does not belong to the Gavi Consorzio, and therefore, after tasting at the Consorzio last year, Carlo Macchi and I drove over to the estate in the afternoon, for what I thought would be a quick presentation. It turned out to be much more, several hours pleasantly spent conversing while we worked though many wines, including some truly impressive older vintages, and after we had finished taking notes (scroll down) we continued to sip and talk.

This year I stopped at their stand at Vinitaly -- as I do every year -- and they were mobbed, as always. Luisa Soldati asked me if I'd like to taste the wines at home, and I said yes, adding that I'd be happiest tasting them in the fall, after a few more months in bottle. They have come, and here they are:

The Sparkling Wines, First

La Scolca Rugré Vino Spumante Brut
Lot 2799
This is non-vintage, and the back label says "Realizzato con 100% Uve a Bacca Bianca," Made from 100% white grapes." It's brassy yellow with a very slight greenish cast, and very intense perlage. The bouquet is vinous with some breadcrumbs and hints of savory gunflint mingled with white blossoms, and some brambly white berry fruit as well. Welcoming in a direct key. On the palate it's light, with tart sour white berry fruit that again has a brambly vegetal feel to it, supported by mineral acidity and peppery spice from the sparkle, which also confers a certain creaminess, and it flows into a clean savory mineral finish with underlying bitter accents. Pleasant, in a light rather direct key, and will work well as an aperitif or with creamy antipasti; one could also enjoy it with a meal built around fish, white meats, or creamy dishes shuch as risotto. In short, a pleasant, versatile sparkling wine.
2 stars

La Scolca Soldati La Scolca Metodo Classico Brut 2006
Lot 0040
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy highlights and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is rich, with wet breadcrumbs mingled with the heather of a field in summer and deft gunflint supported by bitterness and some lemony citrus. Bracingly alive, and quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and creamy, with powerful minerality supported by bitterness and peppery spice, while the sparkle provides creaminess, and there is underlying citric lemon blossom acidity that gives definition, and it all flows into a fairly bitter savory finish. It's more delicate than the Rugré, and one would expect this; though I had expected a little more power in the body that I found, and because of its delicacy it is more a wine to serve as an aperitif or with which to toast than it is a wine to drink with foods.
2 stars

La Scolca Soldati La Scolca Gavi Metodo Classico Brut DOCG 2002
Lot 0550
Brassy gold with golden highlights and fine fairly intense perlage. The bouquet is intense, with savory gunflint minerality mingled with greenish citrus and heather, and though it's quick to write it's also quite harmonious. On the palate it's deft, with considerable savory minerality supported by a fairly delicate sparkle, which confers both peppery spice and a pleasant creaminess, and by slight cedary accents that are a development of time, and provide pleasant depth. Very pleasant, in a delicate, mature key, and if you like the style, which revolves more around finesse than power, you will enjoy it very much. If you like sparkling wines with more pronounced acidities -- here minerality takes the fore -- it won't work as well for you, but I found myself nodding as I sipped it.
88-90

La Scolca Soldati La Scolca Vino Spumante Rosato
Lot 1030
Non-vintage; it's onionskin with slight salmon pinkness, and intense perlage. The bouquet is fairly powerful, and rather bitter at first sniff, with heather and brambles supported by gunflint. Fairly riect, and bracing. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense citrus fruit that has raspberry overtones and is supported by slight raspberry acidity and the sparkle, which is creamier than I expected from the nose, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, in a direct key, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with creamy antipasti, and also work well with creamy dishes, ranging from risotto through creamy chicken or fish. In short, versatile, and this is what one wants of a wine of this kind. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

La Scolca Soldati La Scolca D'Antan Vino Spumate di Qualità Rosé 1998
Lot 0430; it was disgorged in the first quarter of 2010
Elegant salmon with intense, persistent perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with rather exotic spice, sandalwood with hints of cardamom, supporting deft minerality and slight savory notes; with underlying gunflint, hints of petroleum, and something that brings lace to mind. Quite harmonious. On the palate it's ample, with deft dusky minerality, seductive spice, and slight bitter red forest berry fruit supported pleasant savory notes, while the sparkle, which isn't too aggressive, provides a creamy, peppery counterpoint. It's as harmonious on the palate as it is on the nose, and frankly seductive in a delicate key that revolves more around finesse than power, and is one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
90-92

And Next, the Still Wines

La Scolca Cortegaia Vino da Tavola Bianco
Lot 237043
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is direct, and vinous, with some bitter minerality and slight savory notes. On the palate it's up front and direct, with lemony minerality supported by some gunflint bitterness and savory accents that flow into a clean slightly bitter mineral finish. A food wine that will work well with fish or vegetable based pasta dishes and risotti, and also with hearty vegetable soups.
1 star

La Scolca Villa Scolca Gavi 2009
Lot 049008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bitter, with heather and some sour lemon mingled with slight greenish accents and underlying savory notes. On the palate it's fairly direct, with bitter minerality supported by clean savory accents and some, though not too much, acidity; the wine revolves more around minerality than acidity, and the finish is mineral, with slight savory accents. Quite direct, in a rather up front key, and will work well with creamy fish or vegetable based pasta dishes or risotti, and simple fish.
1 star

La Scolca Gavi di Gavi Bianco Secco DOCG 2009
The white label; Lot 200027
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bitter greenish accents mingled with gunflint and supported by lemony acidity. Classic Cortese. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich lemony fruit supported by savory mineral acidity that has some bitter accents, and flows into a clean sour mineral finish with underlying bitterness. Bracing and will drink quite well with grilled or roasted fish, and also has the backbone to stand up to white meats. Expect it to go quickly, and you may want a second bottle. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

La Scolca La Scolca Gavi dei Gavi 2009
The black Label; Lot L159038
Lively brassy white with greenish highlights and white rim. Looks young. The bouquet is powerful, and quite elegant, with savory lemony accents supported by some gunflint and clean spice from grapes. Quite a bit going on, and very young too. On the palate it's rich, with powerful minerality supported by gunflint and fairly intense mineral-laced lemony acidity; as was the case with the palate it's quite young, but has a lot to say and flows into a clean savory lemon-laced finish with underlying bitter minerality. Very nice, and will work very well now with roast or grilled fish, and there is a slight lusciousness to it (more than in some other vintages) that will make it a good bet with Chinese dishes, in particular Cantonese, though it has the backbone necessary for more pronounced schools including Hunan and Sichuan. A wine to enjoy now, or set aside, though perhaps not for quite as long as some other vintages.
91

La Scolca D'Antan Gavi 1995
Lot not apparent.
Yes, this is a 1995. And it's being released now. It's a deep brassy yellow with golden reflections tending almost towards tawny apricot. The bouquet is intense, with minerality and gunflint mingled with leaf tobacco and underbrush, shot through with butterscotch sweetness that is from grapes, not wood. Very particular, but if you like aged whites you will find it fascinating. The palate is bright, with graceful slightly sour lemon acidity supporting lemony fruit and warmth that flow into a long warm savory finish with thick-skinned lemon overtones that last and last. Beautiful, rather lacy soft definition, and if you like the style, it's a wine to hold a long conversation with. Quite long. Though one could serve it with fish or white meats, I would rather simply talk to it.
92

La Scolca D'Antan Gavi 2000
Lot 2449
The 2000 is brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections -- considerably younger looking than the 1995. The bouquet is intense, and quite mineral, with bitter freshly struck gunflint that brings a hammer-strike to granite to mind, supported by savory accents and slight citrus. There's something brooding to it, and it's very much alive, inviting swish and sniff after swish and sniff. On the palate it's powerful, with considerable minerality and underlying gunflint bitterness supporting lemony fruit that's not quite as acidic as in some vintages -- August 2000 was very hot, knocking back acidities -- and flows into a clean slightly brambly greenish citric finish with underlying gunflint that (again) lasts and lasts. Most impressive, and if you like older whites it's a wine you should definitely seek out.
93

La Scolca Rosachiara Vino Rosato
Lot 2390
Non vintage; the wine is pale salmon pink with brilliant salmon reflections. The bouquet is fresh and very young, with considerable strawberry fruit mingled with ripe yellow peaches and slight minty accents that keep it all from being cloying. It's summer fruit in a glass. On the palate, it's ample and smooth, with soft cherry raspberry fruit with slight peach sweetness and fruit notes that gains definition from peachy bitterness that resolves into peach nutmeats in the finish, which is fairly long. Not much acidity, and the direction comes primarily from the bitterness, which does a fine job. Quite simple, and quite direct, an ideal wine for a cookout, or lightly chilled with friends either on the patio or at poolside. Something to enjoy now, in a carefree occasion. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
1 star

La Scolca Pinot Nero del Monferrato DOC Rosso
Unlabeled, and (I think) an 08
Pale dusky brick ruby with black reflections and some brownish almandine in the rim. The bouquet is pleasant, and classic Pinot, with savory cherry and forest berry fruit supported by spice from the grapes, and some underlying savory minerality. Quite pleasant to sniff, in a fresh rather agile key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush bitterness and savory notes, while the tannins are quite smooth, though they do display a slightly leafy burr as the fruit fades, and the finish is long and underbrush-laced. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats, light stews, or even roast beef cooked rare and sliced thick, and though its freshness is nice it will also age well for 3-5 years. La Scolca's claim to fame is (justly) Gavi, but they have nailed their red too.
88-90

Tasted at Vinitaly:
La Scolca Pinot Nero Monferrato DOC Rosso 2007
The wine is a dusky almandine with white rim, and has a deft bouquet with tobacco mingled with savory accents and spice, and some, but not too much, nose-tingling cedar. On the palate it's deft, with clean bright mineral laced fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long leathery cherry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with risotti or stewed white meats; it has a deftness and delicacy that will make it more problematic with substantial red meats, though I might be tempted to try roast beef cooked rare and thickly sliced.
88-90

What can I say? The wines really do speak for themselves, leaving me with the task of thanking the Soldati Family for sending them. They are well worth seeking out.

Angiuli Donato: Eye-Opening Wines from Gioa Del Colle and the Val D'Itria

Donato Angiuli is a small winemaker located in Gioia del Colle that we missed in the course of our trip to Puglia this fall, because he doesn't like to present his wines at gatherings for the general public. Considering that many of these gatherings draw a great many people more interested in drinking than tasting, I can understand him.

However, I'm quite happy that Enzo Scivetti introduced him to me at Vinitaly, because the wines were a revelation. Truth be told, Enzo took me to see him because of a white, rather than the reds that are the mainstay of production: Though the winery is located in Gioa Del Colle, they also have some vineyards in the Valle D'Itria, home to some of Puglia's finest white wines, and in addition to making a Verdeca, are reviving an almost forgotten grape called Maruggio, which they are producing in a sparkling version that is -- so far as I know -- unique.

It's sparkling, and though the sparkle is obtained through bottle fermentation it's not obtained by the Metodo Classico. Rather, they ferment the wine almost to completion in tank, and then bottle it, thus capturing the last of the gasses produced by the primary fermentation, and producing the sparkle. The bottles are then disgorged, topped off, and recorked, and that's it.

Sounds odd, but Donato says it's how the farmers of the area used to make a little sparkling wine, and when the university people who are studying Maruggio suggested he make it sparkle, he decided to use the old technique.

Angiuli Donato Maccone Spumante Brut
The wine is pale brassy yellow with fine perlage, and has an interesting bouquet with scents of apple juice and dried apples mingled with savory notes and sea salt. Particular, and brings to mind some of the Pecorino-based sparkling wines of the Abruzzo to mind. On the palate it's full and creamy with considerable minerality and savory accents that flow into a savory finish with, again, oxidized apple. It's very particular and a bit rustic, and is one of those wines that curious wine lovers will greatly enjoy, but that a casual wine drinker who is expecting a conventional sparkling wine will wonder at.
2 stars

Angiuli Donato Verdeca Puglia IGT 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with citric accents and some aged cheesy notes - for want of a better descriptor -- mingled with sea salt and sage. Nice balance and harmony. On the palate it's full, with rather languid brambly white berry fruit supported by clean sour Regina Claudia plum acidity that flows into a clean fairly acidic mineral finish with greenish accents. Quite pleasant in a zesty key and will work well as an aperitif with rich antipasti and finger foods, or with succulent fish.
2 stars

Having tasted the whites, we moved on to the reds. They do make a Gioia del Colle DOC, but concentrate their energies on IGT and table wines, so I started directly with the IGT:

Angiuli Maccone Primitivo Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is intense, with chewy plum fruit and plum acidity supported by gum Arabic and balsam-laced spice. On the palate it's full, sweet, and quite soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins, with underlying moderate plum acidity. It's a touch drier than I expected from the nose, but displays considerable elegance, and is one of those wines I would drink by the glass far from the table rather than with foods. It's particular, and if you like the style, which is quite traditional, you will enjoy it very much, but you have to like the style. Per intenditori, for people familiar with Gioia del Colle's Primitivo.
88-90

Angiuli Donato Maccone Rosso Vino Da Tavola
"Ottenuto dalla vinificazione in rosso d'uve nere elevate ad Alberello. Vino non Filtrato," it says on the label, which translates to "Wine obtained by the fermentation in red of black grapes from vines trained in the Alberello (i.e. bush) style. Unfiltered." The wine is from an 80-year old vineyard that yields about a thousand bottles per year. Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with plum fruit supported by alcohol and greenish spice laced with hot iron and jammy sweet accents. I can almost hear Patricia Guy saying "the real deal." Impressive, and one could swish and sniff again and again. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful sweet plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warmth more than acidity, which flows into a long, long plum prune finish that gradually fades into lasting warmth. Very pleasant, and despite its strength /17% alcohol) is very smooth and eminently drinkable. A most impressive discovery.
92-3

Angiuli Maccone Primitivo Dolce Puglia IGT
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with plum fruit laced with blueberry jam and some alcohol, and also greenish accents, and menthol, mingled with sweetness and as it opens rich prune jam. Great depth. On the palate it's rich and quite sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness and smooth sweet tannins underlain by some warmth. Quite elegant and ahs a lot to say. If you like this sort of naturally sweet red wine -- the sugar content is high enough that fermentation stops before the yeasts can consume them all -- you will enjoy it very much. And if you think you don't like sweet red wines you should try it, because it has a great deal to say. Where to drink it? Either far from the table, or with dark chocolate, or with cheeses, especially moderately intense herbal cheeses.
90

Contacting the winery: They don't so far as I know, have a site. Their address is:

Via Principe Umberto 27
70010 Adelfia (BA)
Tel 080 459 7130