Tasted at Vinitaly: Michele Castellani

There are many ways to meet people at Vinitaly. One is to run into someone you know, and be introduced to who he is talking with, and that's what happened here: I had just left a stand when I met up with Lorenzo Begali, who was talking with a gentleman he introduced as Michele Castellani, and suggested I taste the wines. I had another appointment, and when I got back he was gone, so his daughter poured.

 It was the last day and I was too rushed to converse, but they are located in Marano della Valpolicella, where they have 40 hectares of vineyards planted to the three classic varietals of the Valpolicella, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

Castellani Campo del Biotto  Calpolicella Classioc 2011
Lot 12/53
Lively cherry ruby with violet reflections and cherry rum. The bouquet is fresh, with a slight pungency that is due to recent bottling and will fade, while there is also berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and slight sandalwood. Fresh. On the palate it's ample and fresh, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warm smooth light tannins and moderate acidity that has a slight greenish overlay and flows into a warm slightly peppery finish with slight tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a slightly softer key, and this is attributable to the heat in August and September. It will drink quite well with foods, supporting rather than taking center stage, and you may need a second bottle.
2 stars

Castellani Valpolicella Classico Superore Ripasso 2010
 Lot 12/16
This ages in large wood for about 18 months. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite young, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some balsamic notes, and also sea salt and some deft jammy notes. Pleasant, and still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh wild cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight flinty bitterness, and by deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean berry plum finish supported by lasting acidity. Pleasant, and very fresh; it needs another year for the nose to come together, and will be quite versatile, working well with a wide variety of red meats and also roasts; I might be tempted to serve it with stuffed turkey too.
2 stars

Castellani Campo Casalin Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2008
Lot 12/41
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable cedar that at present blankets the fruit, which manages to peek out from underneath its coating, revealing some red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit supported by moderate peppery acidity and tannins that are very smooth and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. It's quite international in style, and well made in this style though very young, and needs at least a couple of years to digest the oak. I wouldn't think of opening it before 2016. If you like the international style you will enjoy it, but do be patient.
2 stars (barely)

Castellani Cinque Stelle Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
Lot 12/41
This is from vineyards at higher elevations, and is aged in a mix of large and small wood. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar that is quite apparent but not completely predominant, and by sandalwood and some underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's ample, with powerful spicy cherry fruit laced with sandalwood and supported by some sweetness, and by tannins that have a dusky cedar laced burr, and flow into a fairly long dusky finish with berry fruit and some sweetness, and underlying savory cocoa accents, and sandalwood laced sweetness as the other things fade. It's more approachable that the Campo Casalin, and also more graceful, a powerful wine in a fairly international key that has the fruit and intensity necessary to stand up to the wood, and will with time be quite pleasant. If you are not an absolute traditionalist you will enjoy it.
88-90

Castellani Monte Fasenara Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2008
Lot 11/328
Deep pyrope with pyrope rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense and fairly sweet, with prune cherry fruit supported by some cedar and fairly bright spice, and also some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's full, sweet, and quite smooth, with elegant prune cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and slight bitter accents, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long soft finish with some underlying bitter accents. It's fairly modern in style, and very smooth, with relatively less acidity than some, and is as a result a little simpler; I would sip it far from the table with friends.
1 star

Enjoyable in a middle-of-the-road to modern key, and if you would like more information, check their site.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

You may or may not have heard about the earthquakes that shook the Pianura Padana this winter, but I was in Tedeschi's offices talking with Sabrina when the floor began to ripple, and we sat quietly watching the floor lamps sway for a few seconds. It's not something I'm used to. Fortunately that was it, and when we finished talking I headed into Verona for the Amarone Anteprima.

They, like the others in the Famiglie dell'Amarone, chose not to participate, also because their wines were not yet in bottle, and I therefore was quite happy to stop at their stand at Vinitaly and taste everything.

Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2011

Lot L2
Brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, paling to white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with a great deal of gunflint supported by minerality and spice, and by clean greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and quite mineral, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint and a certain stoniness that brings struck granite to mind, and flow s into a fairly long slightly bitter gunflint laced finish with underlying lemony grapefruit acidity. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 162
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with deft slightly greenish berry fruit -- cherry mostly, though there is also some raspberry, and supported by bright greenish vegetal acidity that has that classic Valpolicella tang to it, and pleasing fresh floral accents as well. Extremely inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a slight dusky greenish burr, and flow into a long greenish sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with foods, ranging from fried meats and vegetables through quickly grilled meats. A perfect cookout wine too, one that one could drink by the bucket.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2010

Lot 161
The label says, "Appassimento," which means drying -- the grapes are allowed to dry some before pressing. The wine is deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by some sweetish accents and pleasant greenish vegetal notes mingled with wood smoke and peppery accents, and some sea salt and cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate minerality and slight dusky accents more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth with some dusky accents that flow into a clean rather dusky savory finish. It's not as bright as it has been in some other vintages, but displays pleasing depth; it's quite approachable and will drink nicely with grilled meats and light stews.
2 stars

Tedeschi Corasco Rosso delle Venezie IGT 2009

Lot not apparent
This is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco (75%, 5% and 20%), traditional varietals of the Veneto, and is deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal laced prune fruit supported by spice and sandalwood with greenish accents as well. Pleasant complexity and very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly smoky prune fruit supported by deft prune and berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long savory prune finish. It's more direct than the Valpolicella wines, and also eminently approachable, a wine that one can drink without thinking overmuch and will be perfect with roasts or stews. The imprint of the Corvina is quite apparent, and it leads the way, though the other two contribute nicely. The Italian word would be ruffiano, which is ingratiating, and that it is.
2 stars

Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009

Lot 553
Deep black cherry almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by sandalwood and pleasant greenish spice with underlying sea salt and hints of nutmeg and brown sugar, it's quite harmonious and very enjoyable to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively prune cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, with licorice root accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with sour prune accents and deft tannic support and warmth that continue at length. Quite pleasant, with considerable complexity and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts, and also with substantial strew, and is also quite young; it will drink nicely now but will reward you if you decide to give it a few years.
88-90

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008

Lot 141
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and rather exotic, with sandalwood spice mingled with smoke and slight nose tingling acidity, and with warm sour notes that bring grilled peppers to mind though are not quite that. Harmonious, and quite interesting to sniff. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by bright prune acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a slight dusky burr, and flow into a sandalwood laced prune finish that lasts and lasts, gradually revealing peppery accents as the fruit fades. Very pleasant, and is a wine that will drink very well wit roasts or stews; one could press it into service today, but it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
90-91

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Lot 354
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is quite young, with prune fruit supported by sandalwood and sour berry fruit acidity with underlying greenish notes and alcohol, and also a fair amount of licorice root. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and carry at length into a fairly long bright finish. It is drinkable, but will reward those who are willing to give it time. I would think about opening it in 1018 or so. Expect it to age well for at least 10 years thereafter.
88-90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sample
Lot 1t2
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with berry fruit supported by licorice root and greenish accents that are supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. It's woefully young and really didn't deserve to be opened for tasting yet. On the palate it's ample and powerful, with rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice, while the tannins are ample with a bright peppery cast, and the real question that comes to mind is why anyone would want to open this wine in this decade. It's like a toddler, good natured but still a toddler, and it needs at least 5-7 years to get its bearings and begin to be drinkable. One could now if one had no other choice, but it is a pity. Expect it to age well for 15 years at least. The score reflects the present.
90


Tedeschi La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pigeon blood ruby rim. The bouquet is elegant, with prune fr supported by sandalwood and spice with underlying sweetish accents and warmth, and deft spice and slight acidity. Quite young, but already pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, and moderately sweet, with cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate rather mineral acidity; it's quite harmonious, and though the tannins dry the finish -- an effect of its considerable youth -- is already pleasant enough. It will be much nicer in the future, but if you felt you had to you could drink it now. I wouldn't, and would hold onto it for at least 5 years before I even thought about opening it. Because the potential is there.
90-91

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2006

Lot L2
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim with some almandine reflections in the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by prune acidity and brown sugar sweetness with some pleasant slightly greenish sandalwood accents. Quite pleasant to sniff in a ripe sweet key, and as it opens some licorice root also emerges. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a lasting slightly tannic fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly voluptuous key, and will drink very well with cheeses, especially more piquant cheese and softer well herbed cheeses, or far form the table.
88-90

Tasted at Vinitaly: Lorenzo Begali

Lorenzo Begali is an old friend of Elisabetta Fagiuoli's, and I was fortunate enough to meet him and his family many years ago when he invited Elisabetta and Sergio to dinner the last night of Vinitaly, and I tagged along. It was a memorable meal, and at the end of it I found myself jotting down recipes, which you will find listed here.

I have since made a point of keeping an eye out for his wines, and am quite glad that I stopped at his stand to taste this year.

Lorenzo Begali Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 20 131
Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright berry fruit supported by peppery spice and greenish acidity that mingle with slight animal accents and fairly bright acidity. Zesty. On the palate it's light and deft, with bright light cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, fairly bright strawberry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a warm slightly greenish strawberry laced finish. A simple lark of a wine that you will need a second bottle of because the first will just go.
2 stars

Lorenzo Begali La Cengia Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2010

Lot 20 130
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense,with ith berry fruit supported by sandalwood and some vegetal accents, and by pleasing mentholated spice with hints of licorice root as well; it has a zesty electric feel to it and is very much on its toes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and clearly display the substance they drew from the Amarone marks, while the zest notes on the nose is present but not excessive, A finely balanced wine that will go very well with roasts or stews. A second bottle will come in handy.
88-90

Lorenzo Begali Tigiolo Rosso Veornese IGT 2008

Lot 10 721
This is a blend of Corvina and Cabernet, with considerably lesser amounts of Rondinella and Merlot, set to dry until November and then pressed. It's deep slightly purple ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with some chalk and peppery spice, and moderate mentholated accents. There's less fruit to it, and more minerality, and this is the international half of the blend coming to the fore. On the palate it's brighter, with ripe prune cherry fruit supported by dusky slightly vegetal accents and by tannins that are warm and peppery, and flo9w into a smooth sweet slightly vegetal finish. By comparison with the ripassa there's considerably less acidity, and while it is pleasant I found it less interesting.
2 stars

Lorenzo Begali Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2008

Lot 10 721
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still very young, with prune cherry fruit supported by pleasant greenish vegetal accents and underlying spice. A lot going on, and very young. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by deft greenish vegetal accents and some sandalwood, and also slight leaf tobacco, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they still need time to settle and smooth. It's quite pleasant in an unfinished way, and if you happen upon one or more bottles you should exercise patience, because while you could drink and enjoy it now, you will enjoy it considerably more in 5-10 years. In short, a babe that needs to grow.
2 stars

Lorenzo Begali Ca Bianca Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

111 28
They changed the labels in 2003 because people confused the Cà Bianca with their Amarone base. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and a head above the base, with sweetish prune fruit laced with sandalwood and licorice root, and with pleasing spice as well; it's very young yet, and though it shows the promise a gifted child might, it's quite obvious that it has a ways to go. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by deft licorice root laced spice and tannins that will be smooth, but now have a splintery licorice root laced burr, and flow into a long licorice root laced finish. It's a toddler, and a pleasant one -- no tantrums here -- but still of that age, and while you could drink the wine now, it will richly reward you if you give it the time it needs to grow up. I would figure a decade or more.
88-90

Lorenzo Begali Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2009

Lot 11 031
Pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense and sweet, with rich prune fruit supported by slight sandalwood and pleasant greenish accents with underlying greenish warmth and some pleasant spice. A lot going on, and frankly voluptuous. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by warmth and prune acidity, and also by sweet slightly greenish tannins that have some sandalwood accents, and flow into a long warm prune laced finish with bright prune acidity to hold it up, and pleasing sweetness for balance. A beautiful Recioto that will add magic to a selection of cheeses, or be perfect to sip far from the table with friends (while waiting for the Amarone to mature).
92

The Photo of the Week: Amarone in the Making, Revisited, and the Wines of Le Bignale

The last photo of the week showed Amarone as it was being pumped over the cap in the fermentation tank.

It takes Amarone much longer than most wines to reach that stage, however: The grapes are first dried (without heating, by cool dry air) to raisins, a process that takes several months, during which the sugars are concentrated and a variety of chemical changes that give Amarone its characteristic bouquet and palate take place.

I took this shot at the end of January, at the Azienda Agricola Aldrighetti - Le Bignele in Marano di Valpolicella. They still use the traditional blend, including Molinara, which is the redder bunch. Perfect grapes almost ready to be pressed. And the wines? I tasted them with Luigi and his daughter Silvia

Before we get to them, a brief introduction.

The Aldrighetti family has long made wine, but Angelo and Luigi, who are brothers, only decided to bottle it themselves in 2005 -- I can easily imagine the people they sold to's being rather unhappy with their decision -- and the winery building has an almost-finished look about it; the essentials are all there, but the landscaping will wait. And this is as it should be.

Their vineyards are directly below the winery, and what I looked at was -- if I understood correctly -- east sloping. The vines are trained high, in the Pergola style, which goes counter to the current preferences for Guyot training that one sees in much of the Valpolicella (and most everywhere else, for that matter), and Luigi told me that they prefer the pergola because the ground contains a great deal of moisture, enough that hot dry summers are not a problem for them, and because of this having the bunches further separated from the ground significantly reduces problems with rot and mold.

Their total production is currently about 30,000 bottles. They still sell some of their wine to help pay the bills, but plan to reduce bulk sales and purchase more vineyards, thus increasing their total production to 80,000 bottles.

The wines, tasted at the end of January 2011:

Le Bignele Sulà Rosso Veronese IGT 2009
This is 35% Rondinella, 60-65% Corvina and Corvinone, and a little Molinara. It differs from Valpolicella in that it ferments and is bottled without the year of aging that the Valpolicella undergoes. Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fresh, with sour cherries mingled with greenish vegetal accents and pleasing violets. Quite fresh, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's light, and fruity, with lively sour cherry fruit that gains depth from some greenish accents, and is supported by tannins that have a slight greenish burr to them, and flow into a fairly long bright tart finish. Very pleasant in a lighter key, and will drink beautifully with simple grilled meats or light stews. In short, a perfect cookout wine. Expect it to go quickly. Nice acidity and quite sunny.
2 stars

Le Bignele Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2004
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and some iodine too, with pleasant savory accents as well, and it opens nicely, showing considerable finesse. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry acidity and sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are slightly greenish and have a bite to them though they are not coarse, and flow into a bright sour cherry finish. If you like smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you far from the table, but with grilled meats or light roasts it will be quite nice -- fried things such as lamb chops too-- and if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive, you will enjoy it very much.
88-90

Le Bignele Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC 2003
Lively black cherry ruby with brilliant ruby highlights and black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with berry fruit that's fairly rich but not as tart as the 04, and that's because of the vintage, which resulted in large grapes because of the moisture in the soil, and also produced quite a bit of noble rot in the vineyards, something that they hadn't experience with previously. Pleasant, however, and on the palate it's rich, with fairly lively cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr, which is in part the ripasso. With respect to many 2003 wines it's nowhere near as overripe, displaying acidity that the others lack, and freshness too. It's not at the level of the 04, but is very pleasant to drink.
2 stars

Le Bignele Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2004
Deep garnet ruby with black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up deft berry fruit supported by some cedar and sandalwood, with slight underlying sweetness. Beautiful harmony and elegance, in a wine that is still very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly bitter, and still very young; flowing into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite pleasant, and still very young; one could drink it now with a roast -- leg of lamb comes to mind -- but if you have the patience to give it another 3-5 years it will richly reward you. If you can wait longer, better yet.
88-90 (Now)

Le Bignele Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2005
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and black highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit whose sourness is more marked than the 04's and with some sandalwood notes as well. It has cleaned up nicely sine it was presented a couple of years ago, but is less fresh than the 04. On the palate it's full, with considerable alcohol and berry fruit that's lighter and less round, while the tannins are a bit more strident, and have a much more pronounced burr that carries into the finish. The 05 was disjointed as a vintage, with high heat and rainfall, and the combination makes for unbalance and disequilibrium. This said, the wine is quite good, and a superb expression of the vintage.
2 stars

Le Bignele Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, though still young, with berry fruit that has some prune accents and also a fair amount of sweetness, though it is fresher and brighter than many of the 07 Amaroni. Nice balance and very young. On the palate it's fairly rich, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit -- it's sweeter than the older vintages -- while the tannins have a slightly greener feel to them, and flow into a clean burr that carries into the finish. It's pleasant though very, very young, and will need another 3-5 years to begin to show its best.
2 stars

Le Bignele Recioto della Valpolicella DOC 2005
This Recioto ages in steel and was bottled for a year ago. It is deep black cherry ruby with violet reflections and white rim. The bouquet is somewhat tarter than many Recioti, with plum berry fruit supported by deft vegetal accents and pleasing sandalwood spice. Quite pleasant, and as it opens sweetness emerges. Very nice. On the palate it's full, rich, and very smooth, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and very smooth sweet tannins, while there is also some sandalwood, and it carries into a bright berry fruit finish. It's more acidic than many recioti, and this makes it brighter, a delightful experience. They served it with Gorgonzola piccante, and the combination is perfect.
90

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Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

This year Tedeschi did things a little differently, presenting, in addition to the current releases, a number of older vintages to underline the aging capacity of their wines. I began with them, and then worked through their more recent vintages. It was a very pleasant hour.

Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit laced with some underbrush and wet leaves, and also pleasing spice with some balsamic accents and leaf tobacco. Nice balance and considerable depth in a rather dusky key. On the palate it's full, round, and quite smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. One wouldn't guess it is close to 10 years old. A child, no longer a babe, with along future.
89-90

Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicolaò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with balsamic accents and some spice; it is clearly from a hotter vintage (August 2000 was as hot as 2003) but is nicely balanced and quite rich. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful jammy fruit supported by lively acidity than is brighter than I expected given the heat of august 2000, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and has a lot to say and share in a slightly more aggressive key, and this is an effect of the heat; while it is quite ready to drink it also has the legs to age well for another decade or more. It's more skittish than the 2001, because of the heat, which affected the ripening of the tannins, and because of this skittishness is a tad more interesting.
90-91

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 1995
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim; The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by some brown sugar sweetness, and by dusky leaf tobacco and spice. Quick to write, but quite harmonious and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit that has some jammy accents and considerable warmth, and is supported by a combination of deft berry fruit acidity and very smooth sweet tobacco laced tannins that flow into a long warm finish with balsamic berry fruit that has some brown sugar sweetness and tobacco mixed into it. Very nice, and beautiful proof of the aging capacity of the wines from Verona, as if there were any need.
92

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Rosso Vino da Tavola Veronese 1998
Deep almandine laced brownish ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Beginning to show its age. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by candied accents and brown sugar, and sweet balasamic notes as well, with some spice, in particular cracked black pepper, and alcohol too. Quite elegant, and has a great lot to say; it's one of those wines one can swish and sniff, and swish and sniff without feeling the need to sip. But tasters must, and on the palate it's ample, with rich dusky cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and sandalwood, and by tannins that are quite smooth and have warm balsamic accents and flow into a clean balsam laced finish that is quite long. Very pleasant, and will drink quite well with roasts or grilled meats, and also has a long ways left to age, though if you let it age further you should be a lover of aged, as opposed to young wines.
88-90

Tedeschi Rosso La Fabriseria Rosso del Veronese IGT 2001
This was made with a small percentage of Cabernet, hence the IGT designation (now the Cabernet is gone, and it's a Valpolicella Superiore). Deep pigeon blood ruby with some garnet accents and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful and spicy, with sandalwood and berry fruit mingled with cedar; the Cabernet adds to the richness but doesn't stand out. A great lot going on in a rich spicy, slightly exotic key, and quite interesting. On the palate it's ample and rich with spicy berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean spicy almost mentholated finish with lasting warmth. Elegant anf quite interesting; the tannins impart a slight dryness that would lead me to drink it with foods rather than far fdrom the table, and with a rich stew it would be about perfect.
2 stars

And Now The Current Wines:

Tedeschi Lucchine Valpolicella Classico 2009 DOC
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with lively floral accents and rich berry fruit supported by strawberry and sandalwood mingled with cherry fruit. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's rich and fresh, with lively berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. A light lark of a wine, which will work nicely with simple grilled meats, or light stews, and will also be a nice accompaniment to meat based pasta dishes or cookouts. In short, versatile, and it will go quite fast. What a basic Valpolicella should be. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Appassimento Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents and considerable white pepper spice. Pleasant in a very young key, and though it clearly will develop, it's inviting now. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by deft brambly acidity and tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a clean greenish berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and though it will develop with time I would almost be tempted to drink it now with a steak, overtones enjoy its freshness. Very nice.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC 2007
Elegant ruby with black reflections and black rim. The bouquet is still developing, but displays warmth and spice mingled with berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. It's coming together, but needs another year to get its bearings. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight Valpolicella greenish burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with bitter accents. It needs at least a year and would be happier with two or more; quite nice and worth seeking out, but do give it some time.
2 stars

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
Elegant black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and very young, revealing berry fruit mingled with spice, in particular cumin seed that opens to reveal bell pepper vegetal accents, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not quite a work in progress, but close. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by greenish bell peppers and pepper acidity supported by dusky spice and acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, but needs time; it will likely become a meditation wine in years overtones come, but will work well in the near future with rich stews or roasts, and Verona's bollito misto also comes to mind..
88-90

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is intense and very young, with cherry fruit supported by licorice root and peppery spice with some sandalwood and also hints of scalded milk -- it's still coming together and needs time. On the palate it's full, and rich, and farly sweet, with lively sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by sweet jammy accents and peppery spice, while the tannins are peppery with some sandalwood and licorice root overtones, and flow into a long fairly sweet finish. Quite charged, and an abundance of power that is still working hard to figure out what to do with itself. It's very much in the air, but will clean up nicely in a fairly sweet (for an Amarone) key and work well with rich stews or roasts. In short, it has a ways to go, and I wouldn't think of opening it before 2013.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2005
Impenetrable black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by clean rather pungent underbrush and considerable sandalwood spice, and also by deft warmth; it's quick to write and very young but also very pleasant, and quite rich in a cooler vintage key in which the fruit is rich but not as ripe as it was in the 2006 vintage. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by clean fresh plum cherry acidity and by considerable peppery spice, while the tannins are sweet, but still quite young, and need another couple of years to develop, at which point they will be drinkable but at the beginning of a long climb. It will have a lot overtones say -- does already -- but really isn't ready yet, and I would give it 3-5 years to come together and expect it to age well for a decade or more. A very fine expression of a cooler vintage Amarone.
90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Just bottled
Deep pyrope ruby with purple reflections and cherry rim. It's younger looking in terms of color register than the 2005, and this is the vintage as much as the wine. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and berry fruit supported by sandalwood and a fair amount of alcohol; by comparison with the 05 there is more fruit and less spice, and Sabrina says this is the direction they are taking; I can't but agree. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich fairly sweet prune and berry plum fruit supported by sweetness and clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Quite pleasant, and I do like the return to more fruit and less spice, which is how I remember Tedeschi's wines in the past, though it needs time. 2-3 years at least, and 5 wouldn't be amiss; it will also age quite well for a decade or more beyond the current 5.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Reciolto della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with deep cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and quite sweet with jammy prune cherry fruit supported by pleasing sandalwood spice and dusky warmth; it's quite harmonious and one could write at length without getting much further than providing more descriptors. In short, it offers a lot to think about. On the palate it's ample with rich prune cherry fruit supported by deft greenish sandalwood acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean prune finish. A beautiful wine that will work very well with cheeses, though its true place is with like minded friends, far from the distractions of the table. Elisabetta Fagiuoli says an Amarone is a bad Recioto, and when faced with a wine like this one realizes she's right.
92-4

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Reciolto della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still developing, but reveals prune and cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish sandalwood spice and some tart accents. Very fine. On the palate it's richer and fresher than the 2005, with more languid cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft sandalwood acidity that flow into a long clean fresh finish that at present is a little dry thanks to the youth of the tannins. But it is promising, a beautiful wine that will have a great deal to say when it has come together.


Tedeschi La Fabriseria Vin De La Fabriseria Passito del Veronese IGT 2005
This is from white grapes and is elegant tawny apricot with brilliant apricot reflections and slight greenish highlights towards the rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite sweet, with greenish notes typical of Garganega and also with petroleum and spice, and bitter honey. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich white berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and by smooth sweetness and languid glycerin that flow into a clean fairly rich finish that carries a degree of acidity, and is thus very much alive.. Very nice, and will work beautifully at the close of the meal, when people have left the table and adjourned to the sitting room.
90

Going back a couple of Years: A Vertical of La Fabriseria

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