The History of Sangiovese di Romagna In 7 Chapters and 26 Bottles

There's no question that Sangiovese ages well -- Traditional Brunello begins to show well after a decade or more, there are legendary bottles in Chianti Rufina, and it has been my good fortune to taste some extraordinary, and extraordinarily fresh Carmignano wines from the 30s.

These are all Tuscan. People tend to think less of ageworthiness in conjunction with the Sangiovese from Romagna, perhaps because the general image of Sangiovese di Romagna is as a lighter quaffing wine. This doesn't mean, however, that Sangiovese di Romagna cannot age well, and indeed in 1970 Mario Pezzi, of the Fattoria Paradiso, decided to try something new: A Sangiovese di Romagna aged in small oak the first wine of its kind in Romagna, and a wine that the late Luigi Veronelli thought was a great idea. So did others -- he was invited to supply it to the Palazzo del Quirinale, Residence of the President of Italy, and it quickly attracted both attention and imitators.

His daughter Graziella brought the last bottle to a retrospective of Sangiovese di Romagna organized by Giorgio Melandri on the occasion of the establishment of a Sangiovese di Romagna archive in the cellars under the main square in Bertinoro, a town in the heartland of Sangiovese di Romagna.

The retrospective featured 26 bottles, which Giorgio organized into 7 chapters (for want of a better term), each illustrating an aspect of winemaking in Romagna over the past 40 years.


The invention of the Riserva, and other Ways of Making Wine: the 70s

Fattoria Paradiso: Vigna Lepri 1970

Pale almandine with orange rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a thoroughly tertiary key, with dusky accents, alcohol, Moroccan leather, brandied prunes with some brandied raisins too, sweetness from alcohol, and some bramble, cool accents, slight balsam, hints of sherry and also some nougat. A lot going on, and it continues to evolve with great interest. On the palate it's dusky, with warm rather leathery sour cherry fruit with savory accents and some leaf tobacco as well, flowing into a long savory tobacco laced finish. Very nice, and though it is clearly quite old, has a story to tell and is a wine a wine lover will enjoy conversing with. This was the last bottle.

Fattoria Paradiso Vigna Lepri 1975

Pale almandine with orange rim. The bouquet is deft, though not as bright as the 70, with warm savory notes and sour berry fruit supported by considerable leaf tobacco and some greenish notes with considerable balsamic accents too. Pleasant, in a quite material key. On the palate it's tertiary, with leather and sour cherry fruit supported by deft tannins and some brandied fruit, also savory notes and flows into a long dry greenish tannic finish. It has a lot to say, and is perhaps a little more powerful and interesting on palate than the nose. It's not quite as bright as the 70, and this is in part the vintage, and in part the bottle.

Both wines were quite interesting and very much Sangiovese, with the acidity typical of Sangiovese of the period and scrappy tannins holding them up.

Spalletti Rocca di Ribano 1975

Deep almandine with some black reflections and almandine rim. Quite deep color, surprisingly so for a Sangiovese of that time. The bouquet is interesting, and a bit odd, with cut flowers and chrysanthemums, with a degree of sweetness as well; it's quite green, with aromas that are more typical of older southern wines -- Negroamaro and Primitivo -- than Sangiovese with some savory notes too. It's interesting. On the palate it's earthy, with savory notes and spice, sour berry fruit and some balsamic notes, with considerable leather as well. Unusual mouthfeel, with some carob and a certain leatheriness, and one again has the impression that there is also something else in the wine in addition to Sangiovese.

It is quite possible; winemaking was approximate at the time, and many did flesh out their wines with more powerful southern wines.

Giuseppe Nicolucci Sangiovese 1975

Pale almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with carob and leather mingled with some savory notes and balsamic brambly acidity. The palate is quite alive, with bright leathery savory notes supported by tannins that are brambly and leathery, and flow into a clean savory finish. Quite whole yet, and a lot going on with considerable depth and elegance. It's interesting, and though again quite old is graceful in a rather lacy key, and has quite a bit to say. Very impressive, and as is the case with the other 1970s wines shows that there was much more territoriality, taking the acidity the wine had and accepting it, without attempting to soften it or make it more appealing to an "international" taste, and this is part of the reason for its longevity.

Cesari Sangiovese Riserva 1979

Pale almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is, well, the Italian term would be scarico, which means unloaded or empty, with some balsam and slight mentholated accents, some alcohol. Slight dried leaves. And hints leather. On the palate it's bright, with slightly candied fruit supported by fairly bright brambly acidity and some sweetness from alcohol, and tannins that have a brambly burr and flow into a fairly long savory brambly finish with slight sweetish accents. Pleasant, and though some of the other tasters found it more commercial, I found it to display some of the same distance of the others -- perhaps not quite as much, but the distance is there.


These are wines of the pre-consulting winemaker era, when the winemakers in the wineries made the wine following tradition using what they had, some wood, all large, and tradition.

Consulting winemakers began to arrive in the early 1980s. Vittorio Fiore was one of the first and most important, settling in at the Azienda Castelluccio.

One can dream: The early 1980s

Castelluccio Ronco delle Ginestre 1982

Ruby with almandine rim; color has held more than the older wines. The bouquet is deft, with savory balsamic accents with warm sea salt and green leather, also Moroccan leather, and some deft mentholated accents with slight underbrush as well. Quite interesting. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by slight bitter accents, and by moderately intense rather scrappy tannins, and flow into a clean slightly leathery finish. Quite a bit going on, and quite impressive, a testimonial to the potential of the land. Castelluccio, which used barriques, was the first wine from Romagna to break out of the region and sell well outside of Romagna, commanding prices higher than those of Chianti Classico in places like Rome. Though it is now quite mature, it is quite obvious why it commanded the prices it did.

Giuseppe Nicolucci Sangiovese Superiore Dlà Pré 1981

Pale almandine with almandine reflections and orangeish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with unusual floral accents and savory notes, with some sea salt as well, and a slight balsamic underpinning with some herbal notes -- woodsy thyme with mentholated accents in particular -- the wine is not quite perfect, and this is the bottle. On the palate it's ample and mineral, with considerable savory accents and dusky balsam-laced berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a warm greenish burr, and flow into a warm savory finish. Impressive, and again clearly reveals the potential of the area. Which is considerable, though the vintage was weaker, and this wine is more tired.

The 80s and 90s: Ugly Ducklings

Innovation is a process of trial, experimentation, and reaction to the results of the trials and experiments, which are sometimes successful and sometimes less so. The 80s and 90s were a period of tremendous experimentation, with people trying new pruning techniques, new planting strategies, and new cellar techniques.

Poderi dal Nespoli Borgo Guidi 1983

Cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fresh, with hints of balsam and berry fruit that bring to mind nougat somehow, and some menthol and leaf tobacco, with some leather too, and pleasant spice. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's bright, with fairly lively warm sour cherry fruit supported by leathery accents and some spice, quite a bit of sea salt, and tannins that have a greenish burr, and flow into a warm savory finish. It's rich and smooth, and has a certain suppleness to the tannic structure that suggests it isn't completely Sangiovese.

La Berta Cà di La Berta 1999

This was by Stefano Chioccioli, a leading Tuscan consulting winemaker whose wines tend to be richly fruit forward in youth. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is ripe, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by some prune liqueur and candied accents, with some mineral notes, and some greenish vegetal accents with something fairly aromatic. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while the acidity is firmly in check and the finish is rather bitter, a reflection of the oak. It's much less alive than the other wines, and while it may have been seductive and fruit forward in youth the production technique has penalized it with time.

The 90s: Here Comes The Gang

Experimentation continued, spreading to those who had been hesitant at first, and people began to get a feel for what they wanted to do.

Fattoria Paradiso Vigna Lepri 1990

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bottle is less than perfect, a problem that can happen with older wines. It's spicy, with candied accents and some mint supporting berry fruit and slight balsam and some leather as well, also Moroccan leather and some alcohol. On the palate it's also a touch tired, and this is again the bottle; reading between the lines there is pleasant acidity and slightly balsamic tannic structure supporting sour berry fruit while the tannins are dusky with a silky underpinning, and the finish is savory with some prune plum fruit and some dried mushrooms as well. An imperfect bottle, but one that clearly reveals the potential of the vintage.

Drei Donà - La Palazza Pruno 1994

Fairly deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and some vegetal accents, balsamic acidity and spice and an underpinning of dried mushrooms. Pleasant but going in a different direction with respect to the earlier 70s wines. Much cedar too. All Sangiovese? On the palate it's ample, with cherry fruit supported by splintery accents, and moderate acidity; the acidity plays second fiddle to the tannins and flows into a bitter finish savory finish with some oaky accents. It revolves more around minerality and leafy notes than fruit, and this makes it more particular; my first impression was that it was less interesting, but fellow tasters rave about it and sipping it again makes me realize they have a point. It is in any case what one would call international in style.

Giovanna Madonia Ombroso 1997

Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable minerality and some iodine, and also hints of camphor and slight cedar. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that have greenish vegetal accents and a warm pencil shaving graphite laced burr, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Interesting, and though it doesn't have the acidity that the earlier wines have, does display pleasing personality. I wonder if it is all Sangiovese.

Fattoria Zerbina Marzeno 1998

Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory accents and warm berry fruit supported by sea salt, brings sweat socks to mind in a positive way. The palate is bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable minerality and graphite shaving bitterness that flows into a clean bright mineral finish. Interesting, with considerable personality, and it does have Cabernet in it, which however hues to Romagna. Quite interesting.

Romagna By Luck and By Chance

Further experimentation during the 1990s, some quite successful, and some slightly less so.

Calonga Michelangiolo 2000

Deep black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is warm and savory, brings well salted stewed tomatoes to mind, with savory notes and spice, and some berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with rich jammy cherry fruit supported by tannins that are quite mineral and decidedly dusky, flowing into a dusky mineral finish. It's charged, and quite distinctive, a wine that you will like or not. Powerful too, and though Giorgio says it has Merlot I don't note it in the tannins -- though there is some cassis on the nose.

Il Pratello Badia Raustignolo 1998

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is interesting, with candied accents and berry fruit supported by some leather and prunes, also savory notes and some caraway seed. Smoky notes too. On the palate it's fairly rich, with mineral laced berry fruit supported by greenish tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long rather bitter greenish finish. Unusual, and though I might have though there was something else, they say it's Sangiovese in purezza. Distinct with respect to the other wines.

Castelluccio Ronco Ginestre 1999

Claudio Fiore, Vittorio's son, was in Castelluccio for this, and oversaw bottling it. Cherry ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoly and balsamc, with some animal hair and stable straw. On the palate it's bright, with savory sour cherry fruit supported by minerality and spice, and flows into a rather tannic finish. It's much greener than the earlier Castelluccio wine, and it's more of a food wine -- it will work very well with stews or roasts, and is less of a wine to sip far from the table. Quite fresh.

Ferrucci Domus Caia 1999

Deep cherry ruby with cherry reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brandied plums and cherries with some quite a bit of mint as well, and some cedar too. On the palate it's ample, smooth with cherry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and some minerality while there is also acidity, though the tannins are carrying the show more than they did in the earlier vintages, where acidity played a greater role. The wine is particular, in that it's a late harvested wine, and the lower acidity comes out in this respect.

An Awareness of Terroir:

Following the period of intense experimentation in the 80s and 90s there has been a return to terroir, and an interest in making the wines reflect their vineyards. At the same time, however, vineyard technique has changed considerably, as have harvesting criteria and winemaking techniques. In particular, many winemakers aim for physiological ripeness, ripeness of the tannins, which comes later than sugar ripeness (that which will give a certain minimum alcohol content). The wines therefore tend to be more alcoholic and less acidic, though this is not a hard-and-fast rule.

Fattoria Zerbina Pietramora 2001

Deep cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with animal accents and minerality supported by acidity and spice with a fair amount of balsamic accents too. On the palate it's rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by minerality and slight acidity, and by tannins that are a fairly dusky mineral finish, with some greenish accents. It's fairly rich, but by now the acidity that was so distinctive in the early wines is gone. Much more tannins and structure, and much less acidity.
2 stars

Nicolucci - Casetto dei Mandorli Vigna del Generale 2001

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and moderate acidity, with some minerality as well. On the palate it's bright, and fresher than I expected, with lively cherry fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and some mineral acidity that flows into a clean rather bitter finish with dry tannic underpinning. Pleasant.
2 stars

Il Pratello Mantignano 2004

Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is a bit more balsamic than some, with animal notes and some lathered horse, and as it opens rather penetrating brambly accents and some sea salt. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright savory berry fruit supported by minerality and spice, and by tannins that have a warm savory notes and flow into a greenish mineral accents. It's fairly deft, with minerality that works well and gives nice depth, and will work well as a food wine.
2 stars

San Patrignano Avi 2005

From a magnum
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some berry fruit supported by greenish accents and slight burnt rubber, which sounds odd but is slight enough to just add depth, and some jammy cherry fruit accents too, with slight sweetness and moderate alcohol. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that have a warm burr, and some acidity; the fruit is more evanescent than I might have liked.
1 star

Gallegati Corallo Nero 2006

From a magnum
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe plum cherry fruit supported by floral notes and some sweetness, and by some savory accents. Quite concentrated and quite ripe. On the palate it's bright, and ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are warm and greenish with a mineral underpinning and flow into a clean mineral finish. Pleasant, in a fairly mineral key, and it has quite a bit to say; the fruit is ripe but not overripe.
2 stars

Graziella Pezzi Vigna Lepri 2006

Deep black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and some acidity, and also some savory accents with slight greenish notes. On the palate it's fairly direct, with savory accents and some spice, and tannins that are warm and splintery. It's not what I had expected given the earlier vintages -- it's neither as bright nor as lively, and lacks the pleasing deftness of its older siblings.
1 star

Villa Trentola Il Moro 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather animal, with lathered horse and some wet stable straw and greenish balsamic accents with underlying brambles. Not much fruit. On the palate it's pleasant in a rather savory key with moderate fruit supported by powerful greenish savory notes, and flow sinto a clean rather savory finish with greenish accents. It's powerful, and a wine that you will like if you like the style, but you have to like the style, which is a bit rustic. It will work quite well with grilled meats or roasts if you like the style.
2 stars

We closed with a couple of wines Giorgio says Look towards the Future:

Villa Venti Primo Segno 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and spice. Fairly direct. On the palate it's ample, with cherry fruit supported by moderate plum cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a fairly sweet cherry finish. Direct, and fairly p front in a light key, with a fair amount of sweetness that will make it more approachable to those who are not traditionally minded, though someone who expects more acidity and tannin may wonder about it.
2 stars

Balia di Zola Balitore 2009

Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with pleasant violets and floral accents supported by some berry fruit and underlying spice. Quite young. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that balance the acidity, and flow into a clean fresh cherry finish. Beautifully fresh, one of those wines one can drink by the bucket.
2 stars

A fascinating tasting that on the one hand showed the evolution of the wines, from the tarter much more aggressive (in their youth) Sangiovese of the 70s though the lusher riper wines of today, and also the introduction of new kinds of wood for aging -- and the struggles to learn to use them rather than be used by them, and on the other confirmed the aging potential of the older styles of Sangiovese. I am not sure that the newer riper style will prove as long-lived, but it will be interesting to see.

Chianti Colli Senesi, Tasted at the Enoteca Italiana

A few weeks ago I talked with Filippo Bartolotta, who mentioned that he was organizing a visit to Chianti for a group of New York wine writers, and asked if I wanted to join in. I was unable to, but did accept his invitation to taste a selection of Chainti Colli Senesi in the Enoteca Italiana, which is located in the Fortezza Medicea overlooking Siena.

Chianti was once a geographic term for the region between Florence and Siena, and also to the wine made in the area. The geographic term still holds, but thanks to savvy marketers of the early 1900s, who realized the word "Chianti" helped sell wines and therefore slapped it on anything made in (roughly) central Tuscany, the wine term has, shall we say, expanded, gaining nuanced flavors with time.

What was once simply called Chianti is now called Chianti Classico to indicate it comes from (roughly) the original Chianti area. Everything else over a vast area that extends from the Colline Pisane to below Montalcino (far south of Siena), to Arezzo, and to north of Florence was simply called Chianti. However the area is too big to be manageable, and as a result a number of Chianti subzones have been established, to allow the winemakers of the respective areas to tie their best wines more closely to their land, while (if they want) labeling their base wines Chianti, which is now something of a catchall.

As one might guess, Chianti Colli Senesi is the Sienese subzone of the Chianti appellation, though calling it a subzone is not quite correct. The Province of Siena, like most of Tuscany, is geologically complex, and there are broad swaths of territory that do quite well as grain fields but are not particularly suitable for vineyards. Therefore the Chianti Colli Senesi zone is actually three fairly large islands (for want of a better term) of viticulturally suitable land separated by the swaths of grain.

One of these islands is north of Siena, bordering the Chianti Classico zone and extending via Monteriggioni and Poggibonsi to San Gimignano. The other two are south, one in the western part of the Provice, from Murlo to Montalcino, and the other in the eastern part, from Sinalunga and Trequanda past Montepulciano and all the way to the border with Umbria.

Given the extent of the appellation, one cannot really expect continuity of terroir, and indeed differences in terroir do result in differences in the wines. In addition, as is the case with the other Chianti appellations, winemakers have a fairly free hand when it comes to the grapes they use: The Disciplinare says the wine must be made from at least 75% Sangiovese (it can be up to 100% Sangiovese), and can contain up to 25% uva complimentari, which can also include the traditional white grapes now prohibited in Chianti Classico, and also international varietals, with a provision that Cabernet (Franc, Sauvignon or both together) not exceed 10%. Winemakers are free to age the Vino D'annata, which is released the year following the harvest, as they prefer. The Riserva, released 2 years after the harvest, must instead spend at least 8 months in wood (small barrels, large casks, or a combination of the two as the winemaker prefers) and 4 months in bottle.

Having said this, I did not a certain stylistic similarity in the 30-odd Chianti Colli Senesi wines Filippo assembled. Taken as a group, they are slightly lighter than the equivalent Chianti Classicos (Vini d'annata and Riserve) might be, and while not necessarily more agile, less demanding. This is especially true of the Riserve. In other words they're wines to set out and drink with the meal, and since that's what I think wine drinking should be about I found many of them eminently successful, and much enjoyed them. Would have enjoyed them more with a plate of pasta al sugo (with meat sauce), but one can't have everything in a tasting :-/

The Wines, in the Order Tasted

Casale Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 1999

Deep brick ruby with some almandine accents. The bouquet is vinous with warm balsamic accents and some leaf tobacco mingled with wet leaves and sour berry fruit, also balsamic acidity with decidedly leafy undertones. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth silky tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a silky finish. Impressive, and proof that Chianti doesn't really end at the borders of the Chianti Classico region. The sort of wine one doesn't pour out at a tasting.
92

La Vigna Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2006

Deep brick ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly candied cherry fruit supported by some bramble and underlying minerality with some herbal accents too. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by brambly greenish accents and tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a clean rather bitter greenish finish with some leafy underpinnings that rather long. It's interesting, and pleasant to drink in a rather scrappy key; I generally expect more fullness in Riserve, and the tannins here are such that it's not a wine to drink far from the table, but it will drink quite well with grilled meats or hearty roasts.
2 stars

Montalpruno Il Canto del Leccio Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy brambly berry fruit supported by some menthol and slight metallic hints. Bright and fresh, revolving more around bramble than fruit. On the palate it's fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by some cedary accents and slight hazelnut warmth. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods -- it's scrappy enough that it won't drink well by itself, but will work very well with red meats.
2 stars

Montenidoli Il Garrulo Chianti Colli Senesi 2008

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is brambly with cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice. Zesty and nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that do have a slight burr, and by greenish acidity that flows into a warm sour cherry finish with brambly vegetal underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods. A wine that will drink very well with foods, and you will want more of.
88-90

Casa alle Vacche Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2008

Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with bright floral accents that are a little more than I would have expected from a 2008, but pleasant, and supported by spice and deft oak as well. Pleasant in an international key, and opulent. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a distinct cedary underpinning, and flows into a warm cedar laced finish. It's still a little young, but pleasant in a soft seductive key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. If you prefer wines with less oak, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Carpineta Fontalpino Chianti Colli Senesi 2010

Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim -- it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry and slight candied cherry accents mingled with some menthol and slight gum Arabic as well. A bit blocky, and gives an impression of more power than definition. On the palate it's bright, with fresh warm cherry fruit supported by more acidity than I expected from the nose, and by tannins that are smooth and soft, with a slight burr that provides definition. The nose needs a little time to catch up with the palate, but it does display pleasing grace, and will work very well with food. It surprised me.
2 stars

Il Poggiolo Federico Bonfio Chianti Colli Senesi 2004

Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly notes, some greenish accents and Mediterranean scrub forest, mingled with peppery spice and deft cherry fruit. Austere, and takes its distance from us, but has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are brambly and slightly greenish, and supported by pleasant brambly acidity that flows into a long tart finish. It's pleasant in a rather scrappy key, and will drink very well with grilled meats or roasts; it's quiet approachable in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy overtones. A pleasant surprise for me.
88-90

Tenuta Bichi Borghesi Coppiòle Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007

Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is a bit musty, with berry fruit mingled with some wet leaves and some camphor with yellow peaches, which can occur in red wines too. It's not quite as clean as I might have hoped. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright cherry fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr, and flow into a rather dry tannic finish with lasting bitterness. I'd have liked a little more definition and richness to the fruit.
1 star

Poggio Orlando Il Ciliegio Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly brambly with greenish accents and some grilled more friarelli than bell pepper and some wet paper. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by brambly greenish tannins that have a pronounced rather dry burr, and flow into a long decidedly tannic finish. It's quite dry, and is a wine that will work well with foods, if you like this style. If you like smoother fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Cercignano Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2007

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly notes and some vegetal accents and some spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by alcohol and warmth, and by bright acidity and tannins that have a greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean bright finish with lasting sour cherry and raspberry acidity. Zesty and will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and will age well for a number of years; the nose needs another year to come together.
2 stars

La Castellaccia Il Fosco Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2008

Almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some sandalwood, and by some vegetal accents. Quite pleasant in a spicy modern key. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by greenish tannins that have a cedary underpinning that flows into lasting bitterness. I'd have liked a little more definition and richness to the fruit, which is more brambly than really ripe.
1 star

Borgo Santinovo Tardivo Chianti Colli Senesi 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and spice, in particular cumin and sea salt Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by lemony acidity and tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly tart sour berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a slightly scrappy fairly traditional key, and will work quite well with foods, in particular, grilled meats or roasts. It would be perfect with a grigliata mista, mixed grilled meats.
2 stars

Terre di Nano Chianti Colli Senesi 2007

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is light, with brambly accents and some vegetal notes, supported by spice and alcohol. Not much fruit, but there is sea salt and pepper. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that are slightly greenish and have a bright burr, and flow into a rather tannic finish with bitter underpinning.. A scrappy food wine that will support what it's served with, without demanding center stage.
1 star

Consorzio Agrario Siena Chianti Colli Senesi 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit mingled with some minerality and some graphite shavings with hints of white mushrooms as well, and some spice. On the palate it's light and fairly direct, with tart berry fruit supported by tannins that are rather light, smooth, and bitter, and flow into a clean bitter finish. Direct and up front, it's a food wine that will support what it's served with, without hogging the limelight.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Allegretti Chianti Colli Senesi 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is bright, with lively berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and clean greenish spice, in particular cumin and hints of mace, and also some menthol Pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight burr and bright sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean rather tannic finish with dry peppery accents. Quite drinkable, and will work well with foods.
2 stars

Monte Chiaro Chianti Colli Senesi 2008

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and fairly vegetal, with spice and some graphite shaving mingled with savory notes and underlying red berry fruit, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate fairly mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, and flow into a rather mineral finish. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit.
1 star

Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by bramble and spice with some greenish vegetal accents and some underlying sea salt and warmth, also some alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish brambly tannins and bright mineral acidity that flow into a fairly long bitter finish with a rough peppery burr. The Italian would be Ruvido, or Scrappy, and it will drink very well with grilled meats or fried foods, also with pasta dishes. In short, Versatile.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cercignano Chianti Colli Senesi 2008

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The nose is frankly rustic, with wet stable straw and balsamic nose supported by penetrating rather balsamic acidity and some metallic accents. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with bright sour berry fruit supported by considerable acidity and some hazelnut accents, and by tannins that have a peppery burr that continues at length. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like fairly rustic wines that have some bite to them.
1 star

Montalpruno Le Fontanelle Chianti Colli Senesi 2009 Lively black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with vegetal accents and alcohol mingled with some greenish notes and sea salt, and underlying red berry fruit. Bright, and gives an impression of lightness. On the palate it's bright, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by graphite bitterness and alcoholic warmth that flow into a fairly bright sour berry fruit finish. It's a classic food wine, one that one can set out and will go quickly, and pleasant in a direct up front sort of way. Brash.
1 star

Bindi Sergardi Chianti Colli Senesi 2009

Lively cherry ruby with bright reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal notes and brambles supported by red berry fruit and some spice, supported by a fair amount of alcohol as well. Fresh. On the palate it's bright, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and tannins that are smooth, though they do have a slight greenish burr that is both youthful and helps provide definition. Pleasant, in a bright fresh key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried foods. Will go quickly.
2 stars

Il Colombano San Cirino Chianti Colli Senesi 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with moderate berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some cedar, and by spice and alcohol as well. There may be fruit, but it's covered by the other elements. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by tannins that have a milky feel to them that is likely wood fruit interaction, and flow into a rather bitter finish with lasting acidic warmth.
1 star

San Giorgio a Lapi Chianti Colli Senesi 2009

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with berry fruit supported by some greenish accents that bring to mind bean shells (from cannelloni beans) and some spice as well. Pleasant in a fresh lively key. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by acidity and considerable warmth, while the tannins are ample and smooth but not quite as well defined as I might have liked them to be. It's a bit soft.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Fornaci di Sotto Chianti Colli Senesi 2009

Deep slightly violet cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy, with nutmeg and ceda rmingled with some brambles and vegetal accents, also some incense and hints of beeswax. A bit unusual. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with moderately intense fruit supported by savory minerality that carries the wine, and flow sinto a savory rather peppery finish while the tannins contribute a lengthy burr to the mix. Quite direct, and will drink well with simple foods.
1 star

Terre alle Tolfe Il Castro di Tolfis Chianti Colli Senesi 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit supported by pleasant greenish vegetal accents and spice, with some graphite shavings and pleasant brambly notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some dusky notes in the tannins, which flow into lasting warmth. Tart in a rather cheeky key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Rubicini Chianti Colli Senesi 2010

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly aggressive, with red berry fruit supported by brambly vegetal accents and spice, and by the heather of a Tuscan field in summer. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and peppery spice that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Quite direct, and will work well with simple foods. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Poggio Orlando Il Ciliegio Chianti Colli Senesi 2010

Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry fruit supported by some savory accents and slight berry fruit spice, with some alcoholic warmth as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth bright berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, flowing into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a light scrappy key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats -- lamb chops come to mid -- or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to balance fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Geografico Chianti Colli Senesi 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with chewy cherry fruit that has slight candied cherry overtones, and is supported by greenish vegetal accents and moderate spice, with some menthol too. Fresh, in a slightly riper key. On the palate it's smooth and quite soft, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains definition from moderate berry fruit acidity, and is supported by tannins that are quite round and quite smooth. It's more approachable than some, and the sort of wine one could drink by the glass at a wine bar, but doesn't have as much of a tannic bite to it as many of the Chianti Colli Senesi wines tasted. If you like this softer smoother key you will enjoy it considerably, but if you prefer a little more backbone you may find it wanting. The Italian that comes to mind is ruffiano, ingratiating.
2 stars

Villa Poggio Salvi Caspagnolo Chianti Colli Senesi 2010

Lively cherry ruby with violet accents and white rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with lively vegetal and mentholated accents mingled with berry fruit and heather. Quite approachable in a fresh young key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity that has some greenish accents, and by tannins that have a slight peppery burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant and quite approachable; it will work very well with foods, supporting without demanding attention, and will go quickly. Expect to want a second bottle.
2 stars

Tufo del Gruccione (a kind of bird, and the label has a stylized bird) Chianti Colli Senesi 2010

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with berry fruit and mentholated spice with some brambly accents. On the palate it's up front, with bright cherry fruit that is supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and slight tannins that flow into a finish that gains slightly cooked berry fruit overtones as the other elements fade. Quite simple, a wine that one puts out and drinks. The Italian descriptor would be Beverino, quaffing. A touch more tannic bitterness and a touch less fruit than the Geografico. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Montecucco: The 2009, 2008 and 2007 Vintages, Mostly

Montecucco is a relatively obscure, and also rather large Tuscan appellation: It begins on the slopes of Monte Amiata (the volcano facing Montalcino) and extends almost all the way to the coast. As such one cannot really talk of a specific terroir, because there are many, nor can one talk of a specific set of climatic conditions, because what one finds on Monte Amiata is quite different from what is closer to the coast.

In terms of composition, Montecucco is much more open than Montalcino: Montecucco Rosso must be 60% Sangiovese, with the remainder non-aromatic red grapes allowed by the Province of Grosseto, which include foreign imports such as Cabernet or Merlot, and domestic varietals such as Colorino or Canaiolo. Montecucco Sangiovese must instead be at least 85% Sangiovese, with the remainder approved varietals, and in this respect its composition resembles that of Chianti Classico. And as is the case in Chianti, some of the producers use just Sangiovese.

As I noted when I wrote about it in 2007, it's a relatively new appellation; in the past production was strictly for local consumption, and since wine was an important source of calories for the farmers, who depended upon it to survive, the emphasis was much more on quantity than quality. Said emphasis is changing, however, and now producers are working to achieve quality. With success; many of the wines presented, especially the Rossi, were pleasant food wines of the sort one sets out on the table to enjoy with the meal, and I found them to be both refreshing and successful.

I tasted these wines in the Montecucco Consorzio's headquarters on October 9 2010, with Carlo Macchi and Pasquale Porcelli of Winesurf. The wineries are in the order the Rossi were poured in.

Il Boschtto

Il Boschetto Prime Luci Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, and young, with lively berry fruit supported by floral accents and some jammy vegetal notes. Pleasant in a young, zesty key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry strawberry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a clean strawberry finish that gains depth from bitter accents. Light zest in the glass, and will drink well with red-sauced pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews. A lark of a wine, which will go quickly, and will be perfect at a cookout too.
2 stars

Quercia Sola

Quercia Sola Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2009
Ruby with black reflections; it's not quote almandine but much more in that direction than the first. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cherry fruit that has dusky vegetal accents and spice, and some savory notes. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly sweet, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has some jammy accents, and flows into a fairly long fruit laced finish that resolves into bitterness with some underbrush accents; it's supported by moderate acidity, while the tannins are quite light and smooth. A simple wine for pasta dishes, hearty vegetable soups, and also pizza and similar.
1 star

Begnardi

Begnardi Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Dusky pale brick ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and floral notesmingling with red berry fruit and slight savory notes. Pleasant youth. On the palate it's fairly light, with lively fairly sweet cherry strawberry fruit supported by clean strawberry acidity and light smooth tannins that flow into a clean fresh strawberry laced finish that gains definition from slight bitterness. Pleasant, a lark of a wine that will work quite well at a cookout too, or with simple pasta dishes, vegetable-legume soups, or quickly cooked meats, and, because of it sweetness and lightness of tannin, will also be a good bet with oriental dishes.
2 stars

Begnardi Ceneo Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing berry fruit supported by some floral accents and slight hints of almond paste that may sound odd, but are pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh fairly sweet (for a dry wine) cherry plum finish with some tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, in a ripe fruit driven key, and will work well with drier meats, ranging from pork loin through turkey breast.
2 stars

Campinuovi

Campinuovi Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with violet rim. The bouquet is intense, with very ripe cherry plum fruit supported by powerful violets and other fresh floral accents, with some underlying sweetness and slight underbrush as well. A bit on the voluptuous side. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sweetish cherry plum fruit that gains definition from lively red plum acidity, and is supported by light sweet tannins that flow into a warm plum strawberry finish. Pleasant in a light direct voluptuous key, and will work well with quickly cooked meats, light pasta sauces, and also, because of the lightness of the tannins will be a nice bet with oriental dishes. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Campinuovi Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and brick cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite vegetal, with unusual spicy notes that bring Sichuan preserved vegetable to mind; as it opens they fade (in part), revealing some berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth; I had expected a little more verve from the nose, whereas the palate is more settled. Simple and direct.
1 star

Castello Collemassari

Castello Collemassari Rigoleto Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit more vinous than some, with berry fruit supported by some underbrush and acidity, with slight sweetish accents but less floral intensity, though with time some violets emerge, gaining in intensity as the wine airs. On the palate it's fairly light, with moderately intense dusty berry fruit supported by underbrush bitterness and tannins that are fairly smooth, with a bitter cast, and flow into a rather bitter finish. It's still quite light, but more brooding than some, and will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Castello Collemassari Rosso di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and savory, with cherry and forest berry fruit mingled with some jammy notes and slight vegetal accents, with some acidity as well. On the palate it's fresh, with lively berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft slight greenish acidity that flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a fairly graceful middle of the road key, and will be nice with grilled meats that aren't too fatty, or also with drier roasts, e.g. turkey with stuffing, gravy and everything else, I enjoyed the fruit.
2 stars

Castello Collemassari Lombrone Sangiovese di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2006
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with moderate berry fruit and some warmth supported by tart spice. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by acidity that's mineral more than fruit and lacking in intensity, and by tannins that are quite smooth and glancing.
1 star

Le Calle

Le Calle Campo Rombolo Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with strawberry fruit supported by acidity and slight underbrush, and by some violets. On the palate it's light, with fairly bright strawberry fruit that's supported by lively strawberry acidity -- it's not as sweet as some -- and by light smooth tannins that flow into a clean strawberry laced finish. It's fairly bright, and has more acidity than some of the others; this will make it a good cookout wine, and also pleasant with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Le Calle Poggio D'Oro Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black garnet with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with very intense savory bouillon cube -- in Italy it's also sold in granular form in cans, and it's like opening a can of the stuff and sniffing deeply. The palate is ample and fairly sweet at the outset, with cherry plum fruit that is supported by slight acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth; with time however the bouillon reemerges, with unusual oniony accents as well. Unusual

Le Calle Poggio D'Oro Riserva Sangiovese di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key, with balsamic cedary notes mingled with some stable straw and warmth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by warmth and moderate berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, but do have a dusky burr to them, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish. It's fairly traditional in feel, and slightly lacking in intensity of fruit; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
1 star

Le Querciole

Le Querciole Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with intense violets mingled with moderate berry fruit, though what really stands out is the flowers, and there is slight underlying sweetness as well. On the palate it's light, with ripe strawberry cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a slight dusky burr, and flow into a clean cherry-laced finish with some bitter accents. Pleasant, in a light key, though it does have slightly more body than some of the others, and will drink well with simple foods.
2 stars

Le Querciole Rosso dei Conti Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some underbrush and slight vegetal accents, and also by some spice and acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, while the tannins are moderately intense and flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, in a rather bright cheeky key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, including -- because of the acidity -- grilled lamb chops.
2 stars

Le Querciole Rosso dei Conti Riserva Rosso di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is mineral, with greenish accents and some vegetal notes supporting bitterness and berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a well polished cocoa overlay from oak, and flow into a fairly oaky finish. It's soft, and rather rich in a sort of opulent way, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I found it a but understated, with the fruit surrendering a little too quickly to the other elements.
1 star

Montesalario

Montesalario Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry-strawberry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and floral accents, violets, and also by slight dusky notes. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and moderately intense mineral acidity, while the tannins have a slight bitter burr, and flow into a clean dusky cherry fruit finish with dusky tannic underpinning and slight residual sweetness. It displays a little more depth than some, with more burr to the tannins, and this will make it be a pleasant cookout wine that will also work well with simple grilled meats, form ribs through chicken (not a steak).
2 stars

Montesalario Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly bright, with berry fruit supported by brambly accents and some cedar mingled with wet paper -- not as clean as it might be. On the palate it's fairly sweet, and quite soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate plum acidity and by tannins that are slightly brambly, flowing into a dusky butter tannic finish with plum overtones. It's quite soft, lacking in definition, and lumbers some, while the tannins are a little dry.
1 star

Palmoletino

Palmoletino Scarafone Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is unusual, though it opens to revel violets and strawberry cherry fruit. Quite fresh, and light. On the palate it's light, and direct, with fairly sweet strawberry cherry fruit supported by slight strawberry acidity and by smooth light tannins that flow into a clean strawberry laced finish. It's extremely direct, and will work well in simple situations.
1 star

Piandibugnano

Piandibugnano Cuccaia Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, and fairly intense, with unusual sandalwood notes mingled with berry fruit and strawberry acidity, and also some spice. As it opens the spice gives way (in part) to vegetal notes, artichokes and bell pepper. On the palate it's fairly light, and disjointed, with dusky plum cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and tannins that have a dusky graphite burr and flow into a warm dusky finish. It stands out some, with tannins that are more aggressive, and also has a more brooding quality; it will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and also with legume or bread based soups.
1 star

Piandibugnano L'Erpico Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant spice mingled with black cherry fruit and a certain warmth, with slight greenish balsamic notes. Harmonious. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm acidity and tannins that have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a clean cedar-vanilla laced berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It's graceful in a fairly fruit driven key, though it is one of the more heavily and obviously oaked wines tasted so far, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts.
2 stars

Poderi Firenze

Poderi Firenze Sotto Casa Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim with slight hints of garnet. The bouquet is fresh, with moderate berry fruit supported by brambly accents and some spice, Direct. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly sweet cherry strawberry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and bitterness, and by tannins that have a warm vegetal burr and flow into a clean rather green finish with some sweetish accents. Direct and simple, a nice cookout or simple grilled meat wine.
1 star

Podernuovo

Podernuovo Antica Miniera Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some floral accents and some underbrush. On the palate it's fresh, and fairly vegetal, with cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly bright berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are warm and have a slight burr, and flow into a greenish tannic finish with fairly intense tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a spicy more vegetal key (more Cab?), and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats, hearty legume or bread based soups, and similar.
2 stars

Salustri

Salustri Marleo Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is powerful, and quite vegetal, with artichoke stems and some bitter accents mingled with slight sour metallic notes. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by graphite bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that have a slightly greenish burr, and flow into a bitter cherry finish with some sweetness, and tannic underpinning. It's more vegetal than many, and this is likely the blend.
1 star

Salustri Santa Marta Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar and some spice, with savory accents as well. On the palate it's pleasant, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense dusky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a fairly dry tannic finish with cherry fruit underpinning. The palate is richer and more pleasant than one might have guessed form the nose, while the overall package is quite enjoyable, and the wine will drink well with roasts, and also be a good bet with mixed grilled meats.
2 stars

Tenuta di Montecucco

Tenuta di Montecucco Passonaia Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and slight hints of garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a more rustic key, with balsamic notes that are a little unusual in a wine this young, and slight hints of stable straw, with fairly bright acidity as well. Particular, and you will like it or not. On the palate it's medium bodied, with brambly berry fruit supported by greenish brambly acidity and by tannins that have dusky greenish vegetal underpinning and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's more aggressive, and more vegetal than many, and because of its aggressiveness will be a good bet with simple grilled meats, or with fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Tenuta di Montecucco Le Coste Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2006
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents mingled with spice and some vegetal notes, also some cedar and underlying sweetness. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate fruit supported by some acidity, and by dusky tannins that flow into a clean slightly mineral finish. I'd have liked greater depth and richness overtones the fruit.
1 star

Tenuta di Montecucco Rigomoro Sangiovese di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and some peppery accents, and by some underlying cedar. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft greenish cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and I might not have guessed it was a 2005, which I associate with a more brambly cool weather cast; it will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts and ahs a cheeky charm to it.
2 stars

Poggio Mandorlo

Poggio Mandorlo La Querce Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a little unusual, with berry fruit laced with candle wax that blows off, and supported by some bitter accents and spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively strawberry cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have some brambly accents, and it flows into a clean rather sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. The tannins are slightly drier than some, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Macchialta

Macchialta Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2008
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather dirty -- oxidized with some sweetness. On the palate it's quite tannic, astringent even, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by slight acidity, and overshadowed by decidedly greenish almost artichoke astringency. It's not what I think of as Sangiovese.

Amiata

Amiata Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by alcohol and warmth; there are also some greenish accents. On the palate it's pleasant, and medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by slight greenish vegetal accents, while the tannins are clean and slightly vegetal, flowing into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly direct key, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Amiata Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with penetrating spice and some greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and wet rag, it's not as clean as I might have liked. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedar laced burr, and flow into a clean fairly sour cherry finish. It's better on the palate than the nose, and will drink well with hearty red meats, ranging from scottiglia, the local mixed meat stew, through steaks and roasts.
1 star

Basile

Basile Cartacanta Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a fairly rustic key, with balsamic notes and some barnyard tang, wet stable straw, and spice. On the palate it's a bit muddy, with berry fruit that has some hazelnut accents, and is supported by brambly greenish notes, and tannins that are rather dry and flow into a dry finish.
1 star

Le Vigne

Le Vigne Cupilaio Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and cherry fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly sweet berry fruit finish with some underbrush accents. I'd have liked more intensity to the nose, which is oddly silent.
1 star

Le Vigne Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2006
Dusky deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is not as clean as it might be, with some wet rag mingled with alcohol and savory accents. On the palate it's dry, with moderate berry fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, and hulking tannins that flow into a dry rather bitter finish with slight balsamic warmth. It's not really settled, but does lack verve, and has a slightly tired feel to it.
1 star

Marinelli

Marinelli I Venti Sangiovese di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2006
The nose is odd -- smells like peanut shells. Oak, and powerfully toasted oak that covers everything. Pity, because on the palate there is cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that are initially smooth and savory, carrying into a finish in which the smoky notes emerge to a degree. With different wood it would have been quite nice.
1 star

Parmoleto

Parmoleto Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with coconut shavings mingled with spice and warmth, and as it opens some greenish fruit with savory accents too On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly rich rather lax cherry black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and very smooth tannins that have a slightly greenish cast and flow into a fairly bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant, but a little laxer than I might have liked, and will drink well with drier roasts or similar.
1 star

Parmoleto Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2007
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and elegant, with warm cedar-laced sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and some vegetal accents, and pleasing spice. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long cherry finish with slight cocoa underpinning. Pleasing, in a fairly rich key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or hearty not too fatty roasts, and I would think about serving it with roast beef that's not absolutely rare.
2 stars

Parmoleto Sangiovese di Montecucco Riserva DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and spicy, with fairly intense berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some wet earth; it's not as clean as it might have been. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by slight acidity and by tannins that have an ample sweet cedar overlay to them, and flow into a fairly long warm tannic finish. I'd have liked more brightness to the fruit, which doesn't quite manage to contrast the tannins.
1 star

Pieve Vecchia

Pieve Vecchia Albatrello Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable underbrush and some brambly vegetal accents -- bell peppers -- supporting red berry fruit with some underlying spice that includes hints of nutmeg. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rch cherry black currant fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but again display a greenish vegetal overlay, and flow into a rather tart tannic finish. It's bright at the outset but becomes more strident in the finish, and because of the tart acidity and warmth will work well with fattier foods, for example grilled or fried lamb chops, or a hearty stew. It is a bit particular, and you have to like wines that display a degree of aggressiveness.
1 star

Pieve Vecchia Chorum Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2007
Black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by spice and some warmth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean fairly bright cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's fairly direct, and the tannins have a glancing key to them, but will drink nicely with grilled meats or alight roasts.
1 star

Pierini Brugi

Pierini Brugi Sugherettaio Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is not as clean as it might be, with metallic accents and some greenish notes. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky rather lumbering burr, and flow into a fairly quick tannic finish. It's quite direct, and I'd have liked better definition on the nose.
1 star

Pierini Brugi Albatreto Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather smoky, with some brambly hazelnut accents, and a fair amount of well-wet leather as well, and some underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bright cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly bright fresh cherry prune finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasing in a direct rather cheeky key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts; it will also be nice with a steak and would be a good, though substantial bet for a cookout.
2 stars

Vegni Medaglini

Vegni Medaglini Cerro dei Locchi Rosso di Montecucco DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy smoky notes mingled with some bell pepper accents and underlying forest berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderately intense prune cherry fruit supported by some brambly greenish acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedar overlay and flow into a fairly long greenish finish.
1 star

Vegni Medaglini Addobbo Sangiovese di Montecucco DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's a little richer than the nose suggests, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by spice and some acidity, and by a degree of sweetness, while the tannins are fairly dusty, and flow into a clean dusky finish. It's pleasant enough, but a bit settled, and I'd have lived more verve and depth to the fruit, and greater acidity, which would keep things on its toes. It feels as if the potential is there, but doesn't quite reach far enough.
1 star