Tasted at Radici: Podere 29

Podere 29 was established in 1942 under the ONC, or Opera Nazionale Combattenti program, which gave farmland to ex soldiers, much the way the Roman Republic once did. The original grant was 22 hectares in a single lot, and by the time the current owners took over in 2004 the property was in a state of total abandon. They have at present 4.5 hectares of Nero di Troia, planted in 2005, and this was their first vintage.

Gelso Nero Nero di Troia 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with red berry fruit supported by spice and some peppery accents with slight graphite shavings and pleasant berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with bright sour berry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and tannins that have a bright graphite burr and flow into a clean smooth berry fruit finish with lasting slightly bitter warmth. Quite pleasant, especially considering the youth of the vineyard; there's nice concentration and fruit, and while it does display Nero di Troia's trademark tannins they support without distracting. A fine wine for succulent red meats, and I have written in my notes, in capital letters, STEAK.
2 stars

This fall they planted Fiano Minutolo, and I will be curious to taste it in a few years' time.

The Image is lifted from their site.

Conti Spagnoletti Zeuli

We continue with Puglia: After tasting Nero di Troia at Cefalicchio, we bundled into our van and drove to Conti Spagnoletti Zeuli, a fairly large estate with 400 hectares, mostly planted to olive groves (and a very modern press was rumbling when we arrived), though there are vineyards up on the hillsides. The Masseria is rambling, and after a quick walk through the 17th century cellars, which are quite impressive in a dark and shadowy way, we settled into the tasting room and sampled the wines.

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Jody Murgia IGT 2008
This is a Fiano, named after a beloved dog (they have many, and an ample doghouse as well), who appears on the label. The wine is brilliant brassy yellow with gold reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents mingled with hints of bubble gum and some spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense minerality and spice supported by hints of (again) bubble gum, which flow into a rather mild finish. It's approachable, but not as tight as I might have liked; while it will be something one could sip by the glass in occasions where the wine is not the center of attention, I found myself wishing it were more bracing. The 2009, taken from the tank, was more interesting, with gunflint minerality on the nose and more acidity on the palate.
1 star

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Mezzana Castel del Momte Rosato 2008
Elegant pomegranate red with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by spice and hints of bubblegum, and supported by slightly greenish acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry raspberry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, while there is also some residual sugar and there are tannins that have a slight burr to them. It's not quite as fresh as it likely was a few months ago, but will work well with cold cuts and similar even now.
1 star

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Vigna Grande Castel Del Monte 2006
This is Uva di Troia in Purezza, and is fermented in steel. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit laced with floral accents and hints of graphite bitterness and hints of animal hair. Quite a bit going on, in a vibrantly fresh key. On the palate it's full, with chewy cherry fruit supported by bitter graphite acidity and smooth sweet tannins that again have a dusky bitter graphite shaving matrix, and flow into a brooding cherry plum finish. It's a wine of considerable character that will work well with succulent grilled meats or light roasts, and has quite a bit to say. Very pleasant, and also not at all overripe. In short, refreshing and pleasant.
88-90

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Il Rinzacco Castel Del Monte 2006
This is again Nero di Troia, but fermented in upright wooden casks. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with bright slightly jammy berry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and some floral accents; the wood isn't evident, though one would note its absence, by way of counter I found the jammy accents pleasant, On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm smooth cedary overlay that gives way to a burr with time. It's considerably younger than the Vigna Grande, but is cut from the same cloth, and is pleasant. If anything, the Rinzacco is a little more approachable form an international standpoint, with tannins that display more polish. If you're traditionally minded you will prefer the Vigna Grande, but if you're more used to smoother fruit driven wines the Rinzacco will win you over to Nero di Troia.
2 stars

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Pezza La Ruca Castel del Monte DOC 2006
This is a 50-50 blend of Nero di Troia and Montepulciano; it's lively pigeon blood ruby with purple reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy red berry fruit laced with plums and some spice; the fruit is quite ripe, but was still developing when we tasted it. It also comes across as a touch sweet. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean fairly sweet cherry plum finish. There are some residual sugars, or so it seems, and if you like your reds bone dry it won't work as well for you. On the other hand, if a touch of sweetness doesn't bother you, it's pleasant in a rather international fruit driven key. Because of its sweetness I would drink it with drier meats.
2 stars

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Ghiandara Castel del Monte DOC 2005
This is an Aglianico; it's impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet leafy underbrush and smoky acidity supported by iodine and wood smoke; there's not much fruit. But it is nicely balanced. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that gains direction from wet leaf bitterness, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary overlay and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's rather graceful, and will work quite well with red meats or hearty stews, and also has the capacity to age well for 3-5 years. Quite nice, and will go quickly at the table.
88-90

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli Terranera Castel del Monte DOC Rosso Riserva 2005
This is a blend of 40% Nero di Troia, 40% Montepulciano, and 20% Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is rich, with cherry and plum fruit mingled with spice and wood smoke with some bitterness as well. Quite approachable. On the palate it's it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate smoky acidity, and by tannins that have a smoky bitter overlay and flow into a clean rather bitter smoky finish. It's approachable, but not as well defined as some of the others, and is not a wine that invites (at least for me) much thought as I sip and swish. In other words, it's a wine to set out and enjoy rather than devote considerable time to thinking over.
2 stars

Conte Spagnoletti Zeuli La Chicca Moscato di Trani DOC 2005
Brassy apricot yellow with golden reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with bright sweet apricot fruit supported by clover honey, citrus, and some herbal accents, in particular sage. Quite nice to sniff, because it's sweet but not cloying. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant apricot fruit that manages to combine brown sugar sweetness with green apricot skin bitterness, which keeps the wine on its toes and interesting. Pleasant, and though one often hears sweet wine should be drunk with sweets, I would be more tempted to serve it with moderately aged cheeses.
2 stars

Want to know more about Conti Spagnoletti Zeuli? Visit Their Site

Cefalicchio: An Estate in Northern Puglia

This has been a busy time for me, and I am way behind in writing up my notes from my trip to Puglia this November. Time to get back into gear.

Cefalicchio is an estate just outside the town of Canosa di Puglia, which consists of a frankly beautiful Masseria, or fortified farm complex surrounded by 76 hectares of land, including 23 hectares of vineyards and 25 of olive groves. In addition to being a working farm, it is a beautiful agriturismo with fine rooms that offer fantastic views of the surrounding countryside (as does the walkway on the roof), and boasts a very good restaurant as well. In other words, if you want to explore northern Puglia, which boasts many interesting towns and landmarks, including Castel Del Monte, Federico II's famed octagonal fortress, Cefalicchio would be an excellent base.

The estate has belonged to the Rossi family for more than a century, and is now managed by Nicola Rossi, while his brother Fabrizio Rossi, a quiet man who prefers to let the wines talk, is the Agronomist. The estate is biodynamic (they even have a hollow filled with solar panels to reduce the consumption of non-renewable fuels), and the wines, which we tasted in the course of dinner, were quite nice.

The Wines:

Cefalicchio Rosato Ponte della Lama Puglia IGT 2008
This is 100% Nero di Troia; it's a brilliant pomegranate red that's quite pretty. The bouquet is clean, with floral-herbal accents and some red berry fruit mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of savory acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively minerality and bright tannins with a burr that leads into a clean bitter finish. It's more the little brother of a red than a classic rosè, and one can taste the limestone the vines draw their life from. Quite pleasant and will work very well with a wide variety of foods, ranging from cold cuts and fairly fresh cheeses though pasta and soups, and also with simple meats. In a word, versatile, and though many 2008 rosès are by now beginning to tire this one hasn't at all, and was still bright after an hour in the glass. Impressive.
90

Cefalicchio Vigne Alte Puglia IGT 2007
This is a Montepulciano; it's impenetrable pyrope with violet reflections and rim. Poured ink and looks like youth in a glass. The bouquet is very young, with violets and red berry fruit laced with underbrush and hints of wet leaves, also some iodine. Very young and still getting its bearings, as it opens hints fo sandalwood (from grapes) also emerge. Considerable depth and complexity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly riche prune plum fruit supported by sweet bitter tannins that flow into a bitter iodine laced finish with some underbrush and savory accents. Pleasant but a bit tongue-drying when sipped by itself; it begs food and I would be tempted to serve it with a platter of grilled meats.
2 stars

Cefalicchio Romanico Nero di Troia Rosso di Canossa Riserva DOC 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and violet rim. Tremendous color. The bouquet is powerful, with musty underbrush and savory spice mingled with wet leaves, minerality, and some gunflint. Considerable depth, and has a lot to say; as it opens it reveals all sorts of facets, in particular intriguing hints of crushed almonds. On the palate it's ample and rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quick to write but pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats, especially more succulent meats as the tannins do a fine job of clearing the palate. It's fruit rich but not a fruit bomb, and is a fine food wine that will also age nicely for at least 5 years.
90

Cefalicchio Totila Rosso Puglia IGT 2005
This is a blend of Nero di Troia and Cabernet, which, Nicola says, serves two purposes: to attract people who know nothing about Nero di Troia but do recognize the word Cabernet (there is a parallel here with the Tuscan Sangiovese-Cabernet/Merlot blends of the 1970s), and to do openly what some do in secret by declaring their wines to be Nero di Troia while adding some Cabernet. The wine is deep pigeon blood ruby with hints of almandine at the rim (the Cabernet), and black reflections; it looks older than the Romanico -- there's more orange to it. The bouquet is powerful, with wet leaf and spice mingled with some greenish accents and underlying red berry fruit. Nice depth, and is more approachable than the Nero di Troia in Purezza. Attractive, too. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by bitterness and leafy accents with some sandal (from the Nero di troia) and flows into a clean savory finish with berry fruit and black currant overtones, and some savory accents too. It's quite approachable, displaying considerable finesse and power, and will drink very well with foods. I found it good but more obvious than the Nero di Troia in Purezza. On the other hand, I am not the average wine drinker; it provides an excellent gateway to Nero di Troia for those who are curious about the varietal but want the company of a friend in their exploration. It will work quite well with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Want More Information? Cefalicchio's Winery Site, in Italian or in English
And Cefalicchio's Agriturismo Site, in Italian and in English.

Wandering Puglia: (Mostly) Nero di Troia

The first day of our trip to Puglia began with a presentation of wines from Northern Puglia: a few whites, a few rosès, and then a selection of reds, most of which are based on Uva di Troia.

Since Uva di Troia starred, a quick introduction:

Uva di Troia, which is also called Nero di Troia (the terms are used interchangeably, and a fellow taster found a bottle that used both, Uva di Troia on the front label and Nero di Troia on the back label), is grown north of Bari. It's not the easiest grape to work with, according to Rivera's Sebastiano De Corato, who told me, a few years ago, that it was traditionally grown for volume, and therefore farmers preferred clones that produced large compact bunches, with fairly large grapes. Because of this bunch structure, ripening tended to be uneven, and as a result almost every bunch had a few unripe grapes, which contributed harsh unripe tannins. Rivera was propagating Nero di Troia vines (from their vineyards) that produce smaller, looser bunches of grapes that ripen more uniformly, and I am certain others are working along these lines too.

Despite its power and structure, I find Nero di Troia to have remarkably delicate aspects, especially on the nose, which can exhibit enticing floral aromas in addition to delicate prune and plum fruit (we are in Puglia, and the grapes do ripen). The wines can also exhibit cedary notes, and hints of seed spices such as cumin, and while one might be tempted to attribute these characteristics to oak, I think some of the more delicate nuances instead derive from the grapes. Unfortunately, if the wine spends time in wood (especially small wood), these characteristics are quickly masked, and then one notes cedar, oak, and oak tannins that Nero di Troia really doesn't need.

Nero di Troia is quite capable of standing on its own two feet without the aid of crutches, and I found myself best liking its younger expressions, those fermented in steel, aged briefly in steel (or cement), and then bottled. Barrique-aged Nero di Troia looses these delicate facets and is therefore much more anonymous, and -- to be frank -- mostly indifferent to humdrum.

Bottom line: Nero di Troia can be beautiful when it's young and fresh, and in years in which there is more acidity would also expect these young fresh wines to age nicely, because they certainly have the necessary backbone. But I don't think it needs much help in the cellars: Perhaps a brief spell in large oaken casks, but not small oak barrels. They strip it of everything.

And now the wines, in the order tasted:

Tenuta Fujanera Falanghina Puglia IGT 2008
Bright rather lively gold. The bouquet is fresh, young, and rather floral, with ripe fairly sweet melon as well and some acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite mineral, with bitter minerality and some citric acidity that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with flavorful fish.
1 star

Valle Dell'Elce Dauina IGT Bianco Puglia 2008
This is Greco and Bombino Bianco; it's brassy gold with brassy reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, and smoky, with considerable gunflint and some underlying metallic acidity - there is some oxidation here, and a fellow taster finds quince jam as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with lively mineral acidity that becomes steadily more savory as it fades. It's interesting but has peaked, I think.
1 star

Botromagno Poggio al Bosco Gravina DOC 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant greenish herbal notes, hints of sage and some honeydew melon and hints of elicriso (the herb). It has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with lively savory minerality and warm citric acidity as well, with some greenish artichoke petal tannins as well that flow into a warm dry savory finish; it's quite pleasant and will drink very well with fish or white meats, including creamy dishes.
2 stars

Alberto Longo Donnadele Negroamaro Puglia Rosato IGT 2008
Pale salmon pink, with brilliant salmon reflections. It looks scarico, which means unloaded, and brings to mind more a Bardolino Chiaretto than a southern wine. The bouquet is quite fresh, with mineral acidity and some red berry fruit supported by some leafy underbrush. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry currant acidity that flow into a clean bright red currant finish. Quite pleasant, and very fresh especially considering that it's already a year old; it will age nicely for another year and be nice with picnic foods, fish, and vegetable based pasta dishes or soups.
2 stars

Tarantini Petrigama Rosato Castel del Monte DOC 2008
This is from Bombino Nero grapes, which are only used to make roses; it's a very pretty lively pink with brilliant highlights and pale white rim. The bouquet is a bit off, with berry fruit mingled with fresh yogurt - the aroma that emerges from the yogurt machine when you remove the cover - and this is likely something related to the yeasts. On the palate it's more interesting, with fairly rich, soft red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish with hints of lactic acid - the nose emerging again. It's better on the palate, but a bit lax, and I'll be curious to taste the next vintage.
1 star

Rivera Pungirosa Bombino Nero Castel del Monte DOC 2008
Lively pink with brilliant pink reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some underbrush and pleasant spicy herbal accents. Nice, in a welcoming key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some sweet tannins, and moderate acidity that's not quite as bright as it might have been; and flows into a clean berry fruit finish with some hints of plum. It's pleasant, and very approachable, but slightly lacking in acidity, and I would have liked a little more depth to it. But it will drink well with foods. Just that it's a tad direct.
2 stars

Rasciatano Vigne di Rascialone Rosè IGT Puglia 2008
Salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is powerful and pungent, with leafy underbrush and savory accents, also bitterness. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity that has a slight milky feel to it, and slight tannins.
1 star

Colle Petrito Ferula Rosato Castel Del Monte DOC 2008
Lively rosy pink with brilliant reflections and white rim, The bouquet is fairly intense, with some red berry fruit mingled with chemical accents and some spice, also a fair amount of alcohol. Up front, and not as fresh as it was a few months ago, alas. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate acidity supporting rather nondescript fruit. It has held up fairly well, but at this point needs the new vintage to step in for it.
1 star

Colle Petrito Iaccio della Portata Nero di Troia Puglia IGT 2008
Deep cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with warmth and underbrush mingled with some berry fruit and slight balsamic notes; swishing also brings up some herbal accents and a slight sweetness. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cedar-laced bitter minerality and dry cedary tannins (from grape) that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Not much richness of fruit; the wine revolves more around minerality and bitterness, and some iodine also emerges in the finish.
1 star

Donna Cecilia Vino Rosso IGT Daulina 2008
Lively pinkish ruby with dark reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and plum cherry fruit supported by some residual sugars that confer jaminess, and by spice. Pleasant to sniff, in a rather opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean dry tannic finish with berry fruit overtones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Rivera Violante Nero di Troia Castel del Monte DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with iodine and underbrush mingled with berry fruit, some spice, and delicate floral overtones. Nice depth, and graceful. On the palate it's full, with fresh lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quite pleasant, and nicely displays the potential of Nero di Troia done in steel: Interesting fruit, interesting floral accents, nice tannins, and nothing to get in the way or mask it. It will drink very well with roasts or stews, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly. One of the finest Nero di Troia wines presented, and the floral accents on the nose, which are delicate enough that oak would mask them, make it even more interesting.
90

Tenuta Fujanera Arrocco Nero di Troia 2008
Cherry ruby with pink cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with sugary plum fruit supported by jam; it gives an impression of considerable ripeness, and there are also some greenish vegetal notes that are well integrated. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with plum fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary accents to them, not much in the way of acidity, and some jammy accents. Very fruit forward and soft; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer brighter wines it won't work for you.
1 star

Tarantini Petrigama Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2008
Ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with candied fruit mingled with acidity and spice, with hints of medicine cabinet as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather thin, with moderate nondescript fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a rather quick finish. I found it to be rather dilute.
1 star


Antica Enotria Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up some sour berry fruit and smoke, and greenish accents as well, and fair acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and sfot, with bitter berry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a cedar-laced finish. It's a bit disjointed, and I found myself wanting more.
1 star

Santa Lucia Vigna del Melograno Uva di Troia Castel del Monte Rosso 2007
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with purple reflections and deep ruby rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is enticing, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity; it's welcoming in a decidedly opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedar overlay, and by acidity that provides direction, flowing into a fairly dry savory finish with leafy underbrush tannins that have savory accents as well. It will work well with food and is pleasant in a fruit driven key, while the tannins will help it to accompany succulent meats or roasts. Versatile, and enjoyable.
2 stars

Cantina La Marchesa Il Nerone della Marchesa Vino Rosso IGT Daunia
This is named after La Marchesa's grandfather, who was nicknamed Il Nerone. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight vegetal accents. Quite pleasant to sniff, in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. It's a little thinner than one might have expected on the palate, but quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Vigne di Rascitano Rasciatano Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some lactic acid mingled with some berry fruit and some wood smoke as well. Not exciting, and tired. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate fruit and a fair amount of wood that leads into a decidedly savory finish.
1 star

Torre Quarto Bottaccia Uva di Troia IGT Puglia 2007
Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum and spice mingled with some brisk acidity and some balsamic notes with underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and tannins that have some cedary accents, and flow into a clean rather savory finish. On the palate it's more interesting than the nose, which is in an interrogatory phase. It needs time, a year or two.

Torrevento Matervitae Aglianico Puglia IGT Rosso 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and greenish grilled pepper, with a fair amount of spice and some cedar as well. Nice depth. On the palate it's it's rich and languid, with chewy cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and is also a very distinct change of pace with respect to the other wines poured at the tasting.
2 stars

Botromagno Pier Delle Vigne Murgia Rosso IGT 2003
This is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with green leather, minerality, and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Nice balance in a distinctly more mature key, but then again it is a 2003. And it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warm sour cherry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish with lasting acidity. Very fresh for a 2003, especially considering how hot it was, and a pleasant wine that will work very well with succulent roasts or stews. It wasn't a revelation, because I have tasted Botromagno's wines before, but is very nice, with considerable depth and elegance.
88-90

Rivera Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia Castel del Monte 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy plum fruit supported by some iodine and slight lactic acid. Non-descript. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by terrific cedar that flows into a tart cedar laced finish. Oak in a glass, and it completely overpowers the fruit. A pity, because Nero di Troia can do much more.
1 star

Valle dell'Elce Rosso Essenziale IGT Daunia Rosso 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet opulent, with jammy red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some spice. It comes across as fairly sweet. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with rather languid cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate berry fruit acidity; it gives an impression of trying very hard, but (for me) it comes up a bit short.
1 star

Alberto Longo Le Cruste Nero Di Troia Puglia IGT Rosso 2006
Deep black cherry ruby; impenetrable. The bouquet is eye opening, with jammy fruit mingled with wet leather, spice, and with red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, and to my mind a bit over oaked.
1 star

Torrevento Vigna Quarrate Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005
Black cherry ruby with jammy berry fruit supported by spice; nice depth and elegance. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. On the palate it has a slightly dilute feel; the tannins step in and are a touch drier than one might have expected, bit the wine will work quite well with foods.
2 stars

Finally, two Nero Di Troia wines tasted the night before the general tasting:

Cefalicchio Rosato Ponte della Lama Puglia IGT 2008
This is 100% Nero di Troia; it's a brilliant pomegranate red that's quite pretty. The bouquet is clean, with floral-herbal accents and some red berry fruit mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of savory acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively minerality and bright tannins with a burr that leads into a clean bitter finish. It's more the little brother of a red than a classic rosè, and one can taste the limestone the vines draw their life from. Quite pleasant and will work very well with a wide variety of foods, ranging from cold cuts and fairly fresh cheeses though pasta and soups, and also with simple meats. In a word, versatile, and though many 2008 rosès are by now beginning to tire this one hasn't at all, and was still bright after an hour in the glass. Impressive.
90

Cefalicchio Romanico Nero di Troia Rosso di Canossa Riserva DOC 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and violet rim. Tremendous color. The bouquet is powerful, with musty underbrush and savory spice mingled with wet leaves, minerality, and some gunflint. Considerable depth, and has a lot to say; as it opens it reveals all sorts of facets, in particular intriguing hints of crushed almonds. On the palate it's ample and rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quick to write but pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats, especially more succulent meats as the tannins do a fine job of clearing the palate. It's fruit rich but not a fruit bomb, and is a fine food wine that will also age nicely for at least 5 years.
90

Torrevento: Fine Wines from Puglia

Torrevento is one of the largest Puglian wine producers, with holdings in all the major , and about 400 hectares under vine. Like most large Puglian wineries, they started out selling cistern wines, inky tannic things with high alcohol contents that other winemakers further north would buy by the cisterna (a tank truck is an autocisterna) to bolster whatever it is that they were making where they happened to be.

However, when the younger generation joined in, in 1990, they decided to start putting their own name on the bottles. It took a while for the established wine press to notice this new development, but with time a steady stream of successes has ensued.

Francesco Liantonio told us that they were among the first to work seriously with Nero di Troia, the northern Puglian grape that is currently attracting a great deal of attention. It hasn't always, however, because, by comparison with some of the other southern red varietals it gives low yields: At the most 95 quintals/hectare, and though this is a lot by the standards of quality wine making (especially further north, where the sun is less intense), those in the business of making blending wines needed more to turn a decent profit.

So while others were stripping it out, Francesco and his associates were among the few who were looking at it with a different eye, and liking what they saw. They also grow other autochthonous southern varietals, and in the course of a meal at Florence's Ristorante Oliviero we were treated to a very pleasant sampling of their production. We began with:

Matervitae Bombino Bianco Puglia IGT 2007
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. Rich bouquet with considerable citrus that gains depth from herbal accents and some green apricot. On the palate it's fairly rich with clean rather languid lemony fruit with green apricot accents flowing into a long green apricot finish. Pleasant in a direct, up front key, and will work well as an aperitif, or with fish or cheese-based antipasti, and also with fish-based pasta dishes or risotti, or with grilled or roasted fish or white meats. In short, versatile, and impressive for an entry-level wine.
2 stars

Followed by Reds:

Torre del Falco Murgia IGT Nero Di Troia 2006
This is another entry-level wine; it's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a direct, fairly rich bouquet with jammy red berry fruit supported by some spice and hints of caramel from the grapes (no wood). On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich dry cherry fruit supported by underbrush and moderate acidity, while there is also considerable graphite bitterness in the tannins that's typical of Nero di Troia, and provides both backbone and depth. Direct, up front, and will drink nicely with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and other like dishes. A wine that doesn't demand attention, but rather supports what it's served with, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Rosso Riserva 2004
This is a Nero di Troia, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with lively cherry rim. Poured ink; Francesco tells us some of the vineyards are 30 years old, and that they're trained in part to the traditional Alberello style (free standing bushes) and to Spalliera, rows with strung wires providing support. Returning to the wine, the bouquet is delicate, with fairly rich floral accents and clean forest berry fruit -- currants in particular -- laced with spice. Nice depth and pleasing elegance. On the palate it's ample, with clean rich forest berry fruit supported by moderate blackberry acidity and by tannins that are ample, with clean graphite bitterness that continues at length, becoming dusty as it fades, and this is a factor of youth; the wine will become silky with age, and has the capacity to age well for many years. It will work well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, or white meats too, for example turkey or roast beef sliced fairly thick. 200,000 bottles of this wine are produced yearly, and to be frank I'm impressed. This sort of quality usually comes in smaller volumes and at less favorable quality/price ratios (we were given cellar prices, which I am not passing on since the path a wine takes en route can have a tremendous impact upon price).
90-91

Sine Nomine Salice Salentino DOC Rosso Riserva 2003
A more southerly Puglian wine that's 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera; it's impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim and has a vinous bouquet with jammy berry fruit and some gum Arabic mingled with wet earth and moderate spice. Very young. On the palate it's full, ample, and very smooth, with rich clean cherry fruit that has some balsamic accents mingled with underbrush, and is supported by clean sweet smooth tannins that flow into a smooth berry fruit finish. Graceful and elegant in a very approachable key; it doesn't have quite the depth of the Vigna Pedale, but is quite enjoyable and will drink very well with drier meats, for example roast turkey or an arista (roast boned pork loin). Again, excellent quality/price ratio.
88-90

Kebir Puglia IGT Rosso 2002
Puglia was one of the few parts of Italy not to suffer from the dreadfully wet summer weather in 2002 -- simply because it didn't rain, and hasn't rained much any summer since then either, with the result that Torrevento is sinking deep wells from which to provide the water necessary to keep the vines alive. Returning to the wine, Keber, which means sovereign in Arabic and is a bow to Federico II, the Holy Roman Emperor who was excommunicated for his openness with respect to Araby: It's their one nod to international tastes, a blend of Nero di Troia and Cabernet Sauvignon that spends 14 months in barriques, and is inky pigeon blood ruby with violet highlights. Deft bouquet, with forest berry fruit supported by some grassy herbal accents, spice, and hints of underbrush. Inviting, and the Cabernet is quite apparent, but doesn't overpower the Nero di Troia. On the palate it's smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate spice and very smooth ample tannins, while there is sufficient acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a smooth finish. Quite elegant in an approachable international key, and is a wine you will enjoy greatly if you like large, smooth fruit driven wines. It will work well with flavorful, fairly dry meats, or also by the glass farther from the table. As with the others, fine quality/price ratio.
2 stars

And Finished With Another White:

Dulcis in Fundo Moscato di Trani DOC Dolce 2006
This would be more alcoholic, but they interrupt the fermentation when it reaches 12%, leaving sufficient sugar to produce another 3-4% alcohol were it to ferment. It's brassy gold with slight apricot highlights, and has a pleasant bouquet that combines rich honeydew melon with green apricot and quite a bit of sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid full honeydew melon fruit that gains depth and contrast from bitter accents that gradually emerge, coming to overshadow the sweetness in the finish. Pleasant and will work quite well with dry patisserie, and is also a wine one could meditate over.
2 stars.

Bottom Line: I'm impressed. They have done a fine job of converting from vini da taglio, blending wines, to first-rate south Italian wines, and have done so while keeping a tight rein on prices -- though I won't give exact figures, everything we tasted sells for under 10 Euros, and most considerably under -- making the wines quite attractive to consumers.

In addition to making wine, Torrevento also makes olive oil, which they are not yet selling, and they grow durum wheat and make high quality pasta, which is for now aimed at the restaurant trade, though with time they hope to expand to quality retailers too.

Want to know more? Check out Torrevento's Site.