D'Alfonso Del Sordo, Fine Wines from Daunia, in Puglia North of the Murge

I met Gianfelice and Celeste D'Alfonso Del Sordo, of D'Alfonso Del Sordo several years ago at the Ristorante il Calmiere in Verona -- we were both guests of Elisabetta Fagioli, and took advantage of the relative calm of the restaurant (relative to Vinitaly most anything is calm) to chat, and the next day I tasted their wines, which I enjoyed. So I stopped by again this year, and tasted again. And again came away quite favorably impressed; they are doing some fascinating things in Northern Puglia. Vinitaly being what it is, rather than talk I took notes on the wines:

D'Alfonso del Sordo Catapanus Bombino Bianco IGT Daunia 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rich floral accents mingled with heather and slight savory notes, and also some loquat and a certain pungency. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish berry fruit supported by savory minerality and some tart tannic acidity that flows into a clean rather herbal savory finish. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with fish based dishes, ranging from pasta sauces through grilled or roasted finish, and also with white meats. In short, a versatile food wine. Also a wine with a nice aging potential, and may well be superior in a year or two.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Candelaro Puglia IGT Bianco 2009
This is a barrel fermented bland of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It's brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections the bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky white berry fruit mingled with gooseberry and some spice. Nice depth, and there is also, as it opens, some butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet honeydew melon fruit laced with gooseberry warmth and supported by smooth acidity and some languidity from the tannins drawn from the oak. Pleasant in a softer key, and will work well as an aperitif or with spicier foods that will be tempered by the softness, which comes form letting the grapes ripen until the end of August.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo DOC Rosato 2009
This is a blend of Montepulciano D'Abruzzo and about 20% Sangiovese. It's lively pink with brilliant slightly salmonate reflections and white rim. The bouquet is still closed, though swishing brings up clean berry fruit raspberry and some currant, supported by fairly lively acidity. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and by delicate tannins that flow into a clean fresh raspberry finish that is fairly long. Quite nice, and will be a perfect summer cookout wine, or a wine to sip with friends on the terrace as the darkness grows and the shadows lengthen.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Posta Arignano San Severo Rosso DOC 2008
This is a Montepulciano and Sangiovese, like the Rosato, fermented in steel. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory slightly balsamic accents and a fair amount of alcohol supporting pleasant prune fruit that opens nicely. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant very smooth prune fruit supported by warmth and some acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly rich berry fruit finish with some cedary dusky bitter undertones. Ripe but not overripe, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Casteldrione Uva di Troia Puglia IGT Rosso 2008
Barrel sample
Elegant deep pyrope ruby with purple highlights and violet rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with moderate berry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and spice, and by clean graphite shavings from grapes. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry prune fruit supported by warm slightly tannic acidity and warmth, and by smooth dry tannins that flow into a clean fresh dry tannic finish with some mineral acidity and slight berry fruit. It's still developing -- barrel samples are by definition but would already be drinkable with simple stews or roasts, and will be quite pleasant in a year's time.

D'Alfonso del Sordo Montero Puglia IGT Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Sauvignon, and spends some time in used barriques. It's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with slightly jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by some but not too much cedar; it's quite harmonious in a rather cheeky key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly tanic fairly long tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and will also age well for a year or two.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Contrada del Santo Puglia IGT 2006
This is a blend of Uva di Troia and Merlot, and goes into older barriques for a time. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry prune fruit supported by India ink and some iodine, and by clean cedary spice. On the palate it's full and smooth with rich cherry fruit supported by clean minerality more than acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long berry fruit finish with some prune accents as well. Graceful, in a curvy sort of way, and will drink nicely with drier meats ranging from pork loin though roast beef cooked slightly more well done than rare. It's also a wine that will be nice by the glass far from the table. The Merlot makes itself heard.
88-90

D'Alfonso del Sordo Doganera Merlot Daunia IGT Puglia 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more brings up some cassis mingled with India ink and some cedar with underlying spice. Nice balance and fairly harmonious,. On the palate it's ample and very smooth with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by some dusky acidity and by sweet tannins that flow into a smooth sweet finish kept alive by fairly bright currant acidity that does have some dusky accents. Very typical of Merlot, and very smooth, it's smooth enough that in terms of accompaniments it will work best with drier meats, and it is also a wine to be drink by the glass far from the table.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Cava del Re Cabernet Sauvignon Daunia IGT Puglia 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft herbal accents mingled with warmth and spice; and supported by jammy berry fruit and some alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

D'Alfonso del Sordo Guado San Leo Uva di Troia Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is intense, with India ink and some cumin seed mingled with prune fruit and pleasant airy richness. Quite nice to sniff. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a slight dry sandalwood underpinning attributable to youth, and flows into a clean rather dry finish. Very young, and needs another year at least for the tannins to smooth and fold in. When they do it will be very nice, and quite approachable in a smooth fruit driven key. In sort, a wine to give some time to , and it will also age nicely for 8-10 years and perhaps more.
2 stars

I Pastini and Fiano Minutolo: Two Exciting Discoveries

Puglia, like much of Italy, is primarily known for its red wines and varietals. But not exclusively, and the ValD'Itria, located south of Bari, in the territories of the Communes of Locorotondo, Alberobello, Martina Franca e Cisternino has always been known for white wines too. So when Lino Carparelli, the driving force behind Torrevento, decided to open his own winery in the Val D'Itria, it was only natural that he should have thought of white grapes.

The older farmers Mr. Carparelli talked with when laying the foundations of the new winery suggested he try a varietal that had almost completely vanished, Fiano Minutolo. So he and several friends spent the summer of 2000 working through old vineyards in search of Fiano Minutolo vines, which they then propagated. The first hectare was planted in 2001, and he now has 10 hectares, in addition to some Verdeca and some Bianco D'Alessano, two other classic Val D'Itrian white varietals.

But what is Fiano Minutolo? Given the name one would expect some sort of relationship with the Fiano grown in Avellino and other parts of Campania, but this doesn't seem to be the case. Rather, it is an intensely aromatic white grape of uncertain origin -- Roberto Giuliani traces its history (see link below), saying that Carlo II D'Angiò is said to have introduced it from Campania, but there are also records indicating that Frederick II had sent Apulian white grapes to Campania the century before.

Regardless of where it came from, he continues, it did grow well in Puglia, and was eventually introduced to the Val D'Itria, where it was held in considerable esteem, thanks to its quality. Unfortunately, it wasn't as productive as either Verdeca or Bianco D'Alessano, the other two white grapes of the region, and was therefore largely abandoned after the phylloxera outbreak, though a few vines did survive in the old vineyards.

And this was the situation when Mr. Carparelli began to work with it. He originally intended to use it to make an old-style Locorotondo DOC, which is a blend of Fiano Minutolo, Verdeca, and Bianco D'alessano, but realized once he began to work with it that Fiano Minutolo is actually 6 closely related sub-varietals (for want of a better term), and that the varietal is known by other names in other parts of Puglia, for example Greco Aromatico or Greco Bianco. In other words, there was a certain amount of confusion surrounding Fiano Minutolo. However, it was clearly distinct from the Fiano used in Campania to make Fiano D'Avellino.

Given the situation, Mr. Carparelli decided the best course of action would be to use Fiano Minutolo to make a wine in purezza, which would be easier to evaluate, rather than a Locorotondo Blend. And in the meantime, to avoid confusion with the wines made from Fiano di Avellino, Puglia's department of Agriculture is changing the name of the varietal from Fiano Minutolo to Minutolo, and this strikes me as a wise decision.

After a tour of the winery, which is located in a series of Trulli (the characteristic buildings of the region, which I will discuss shortly in Cosa Bolle in Pentola), we tasted Mr. Carparelli's wines:



I Pastini Cupa Bianco d'Alessano Valle D'Itria IGT 2008
Brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with delicate floral accents and hints of hay mingled with delicate greenish accents, some gunflint, and bright acidity. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's bright, with slightly smoky grapefruit acidity supporting lively citric fruit and clean slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish that has a clean citric underpinning, and becomes rather languid with time. Quiet pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif or with fish or cheese-based antipasti, and will also work well with fish. A nice discovery.
2 stars

I Pastini Faraone Verdeca Valle D'Itria IGT 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is muted, with some gunflint and moderate acidity, but the overall impression is quite neutral. Pleasant, but not too aromatic. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright slightly gunflint laced citric acidity, and languid citric fruit that flows into a clean rather sour lemony finish. Pleasant in a direct key, and will drink well with foods, ranging from fish or cheese based pasta dishes, though fish and on to fried fish and vegetables (or meats too). Expect it to drink quickly.
2 stars

I Pastini Antico Locorotondo DOC 2008
This is a blend of 60% verdeca, 35% Bianco D'Alessano, and 5% Fiano Minutolo. It's pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some gunflint minerality and delicate herbal notes. Direct. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense acidity supporting clean minerality and lemony acidity, and flowing into a clean citric finish. Pleasant in a very direct key, and will work well as a day to day white wine.
1 star

I Pastini Rampone Fiano Minutolo Valle D'Itria IGT 2008
Lively brassy gold with greenish brassy relflections and white rim. The bouquet is intriguing, with rich floral accents mingled with mint and some nutmeg, and hints of orange blossoms, and spice; though some of the other tasters are talking about Moscato I find that it brings to mind the Malvasias of Emilia Romagna. Very nice, and a wine one can converse with. On the palate it's rich, and rather languid, with full languid fruit -- apricot and bitter orange with pleasant savory accents and clean slightly greenish gunflinty tannins that lead into a warm savory fruit laced finish. Very nice, and a completely unexpected surprise. Worth seeking out.
90-91

I Pastini Arpago Primitivo Tarantino IGT Rosso 2006
Deep brick almandine with cherry rim paling to white at the nail. The bouquet is delicate, with balsam-laced cherry plum fruit supported by some cedar from grapes and deft wood smoke and spice, again from grapes. Nice depth and it opens beautifully, revealing considerable richness of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich plum prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by warm balsamic tannins that lay a leathery burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite pleasant, though more a food wine than a sipping wine; it will work well with grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

I Pastini Elogio alla Lentezza Aleatico Rosso Dolce Puglia IGT 2006
Deep pyrope with dark brick rim. The bouquet is intense and intriguing, with jammy bitter cherry fruit supported by iodine and eucalyptus, mingled with quinine, whose bitterness balances the sweetness of the fruit. A great lot going on, and fascinating to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with powerful sweet cherry fruit supported by sweet greenish tannins and deft acidity, and it flows into a clean rather bitter -- there's quinine bitterness -- finish that lasts and lasts. A beautiful wine, and a perfect example of why it's worth getting excited about Aleatico. Great freshness, and perfectly balanced sweetness that keeps the wine from being cloying.
90

In the course of our trip, we did taste a few other wines made from the Fiano Minutolo, or Minutolo grape:

Candido Tenuta Marini Fiano Salento IGT 2008
Tasted during lunch at Candido; it's a Fiano Minutolo and is pale brassy yellow with greenish hl and brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich w powerful floral accents and honeysuckle mingled with some bitter orange and orange peel, and underlying sweetness. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with honeydew melon and moderate acidity; there's more sweetness than acidity, though the acidity does emerge in the finish. Pleasant in a sweeter more approachable key than some of the whites we tasted, and will be nice as an aperitif; I found it a bit too sweet to want to serve it with western-style fish, but the sweetness will work nicely with more richly spiced Chinese or perhaps Thai dishes. If you like sweeter whites you will enjoy it.
1 star

Felline Rufiano Salento Bianco IGT 2008
This is a Fiano Minutolo; they call it Rufiano because Puglia doesn't allow people to use the word Fiano for a Fiano Minutolo-based wine. This is the first vintage, from 3-year old vines. It's brilliant brassy yellow with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with candied citron with some underlying minerality. Intriguing On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich lemony fruit that has some orange accents, and flows into a long citric finish with slightly greenish tannic underpinning. It's not as tight as I might have liked, but does display a certain grace, and because of its lively acidity it will drink well with rich foods such as fried fish or grilled fish. I would expect future vintages to improve, as the now very young vines mature.
2 stars

Vetrere Cre Salento Fiano IGT 2008
This is a Fiano Minutolo. It's brassy gold with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite aromatic, with strong mentholated greenish spicy notes that bring brill cream to mind Interesting, and particular. On the palate it's soft and fairly sweet with mentholated lemon fruit supported by sweetness and moderate acidity that flow into a rather soft finish. I'd have liked more tightness to it.
1 star

Bottom Line: I very much enjoyed Mr. Carparelli's wines. And was extremely impressed by Fiano Minutolo, which offers Apulian winemakers a unique opportunity that they will be quite wise to take advantage of. Keep an eye out for it.

Curious about I Pastini? Franco Ziliani's impressions of Fiano Minutolo and I Pastini

Roberto Giuliani's discussion of Fiano Minutolo, to which I am indebted for the historical notes.

A page with contact information for I Pastini