Wines from La Feliciana: Lugana & More

La Feliciana is a small winery south of Lake Garda, in the Commune of Pozzolengo, and remarkably peaceful, with gentle rolling hills and vineyards stretching off into the distance; the only thing that would make you wonder if it has always been this way is the massive stone tower built on a low hill a couple of miles away: It's the monument to the Battle of San Martino, fought by the Piemontese against half of the Austrian army while their French allies were fighting the other half at Solferino, a few miles away, on June 24 1859 -- a bloody encounter that began the Austrian withdrawal from most of Northern Italy and paved the way for the unification of Italy under the House of Savoy. The tower, erected in the late 1800s, has heroic frescos of the battles inside, and offers a commanding view of the area (looking north, well up Lake Garda, and on a clear day I would expect to see the Apennines in the distance to the south)

Considering that Sirmione and the rest of Lake Garda are also just a few minutes' distance, and that Garda's famed amusement parks (Gardaland is one of many) are just a little further away, as are the lakeside towns of Lazise and Bardolino, and that Gabriele D'Annunzio's Vittoriale  is just a little further, on the Breascian side of the lake, you'll understand why we stayed at the estate's Agriturismo for a few days this August.  Very pleasant, and highly recommended.

In addition to the Agriturismo there is the winery, which consists of about 7 hectares of beautifully kept vineyards. They make a number of wines, and I asked Massimo Sbruzzi if I might taste a selection. He kindly nodded, and here we are:

Azienda Agricola Feliciana Grifo Lugana Brut DOP
Non Vintage Metodo Charmat; Lot not apparent
Fairly bright straw yellow with moderately fine intense perlage that's fairly persistent. The bouquet is fresh, with floral notes and some heather, and very slight hints of bead crumbs with some savory mineral accents as well. Direct, but fresh and clean. On the palate it's medium bodied and again fresh, with fairly mineral white berry fruit that has slight hints of gooseberry and peppery spice from the sparkle, and flows into a fairly long peppery mineral finish that has slight citrussy minty accents. It's quite up front, a wine that looks one in the eye, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with creamy dishes, and also with grilled or roasted fish. Expect it to go quickly, and people will likely want more.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Feliciana Forfel San Martino della Battaglia DOP 2011
Lot 1212
This is from Tocai grapes; and is pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather savory, with citrus fruit, rather sour salty lemon with peppery spice, laced with gunflint and some savory minerality; as it opens the gunflint fades, giving way to the heather of a freshly cut field, while the spice continues. On the palate it's rich and rather languid, with ample fairly sweet honeydew melon laced almost gooseberry-like white fruit supported by moderate peppery spice from grapes, and by moderate acidity that nicely provides direction, and flows into a heather laced, almost brambly honeydew gooseberry finish. It's pleasant in a rather seductive curvy key, and will be pleasant as an aperitif, and also has the structure necessary to stand up to grilled or roasted lake fish
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Feliciana Felugan Lugana DOP 2011
Lot 11.12
Pale brassy greenish white with greenish brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with loquat and white berry fruit supported by some sweetness and slight greenish accents with some spicy heather as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively white berry fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by pleasant peppery spice that flows into a clean bright white fruit finish with underlying minerality and mineral acidity that is balanced by some sweetness. Pleasant in a rather zesty key, and will drink well with fish, including fried fish; it will go quickly, and you can expect people to ask for more.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Feliciana Grifo Rosé Brut Vino Spumante
Non Vintage; lot not apparent.
Brilliant salmon pink with fine slightly salmonate perlage that's fairly persistent, and salmon reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with roses and red fruit mingled with slight violet and some sweet almost marzipan notes, and also some greenish heather. On the palate it's light, with fairly bright red fruit supported by bright mineral laced brambly acidity and some peppery notes from the sparkle, which fade into a fairly long mineral finish with, again, the pepper from the sparkle that's mingled with some other spices as well. It's brash and up front, a direct wine that will work well as an aperitif with cold cuts and other antipasti, or with white meats or fish. It has the brashness of a teen, and will go quickly.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Feliciana Feudo Garda Classico Chiaretto DOP 2011
Lot 03.12
This is a blend of Marzemino, Groppello, Barbera, and Sangiovese; it's pale slightly orange rose (not quite salmon), and has a fairly intense bouquet with considerable heather and some red berry fruit supported by spicy notes that bring nutmeg to mind, and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry raspberry fruit that is supported by both raspberry acidity and some sweetness, and flows into a clean fairly tart wild berry fruit finish that again gains direction from acidity, while there is also alcohol that confers a certain slightly greenish warmth. Pleasant, and will work well at table with foods, from grilled or roasted fish through creamy first course dishes (I wouldn't serve it with a red sauce), and on to white meats. Versatile, and pleasant to drink.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Feliciana Cebon Benaco Bresciano Rosso DOP 2009
Lot 06.10
This is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Marzemino, and Groppello, and ages in botti after fermentation in steel. Deep, almost impenetrable violet with slight purple reflections that emerge from the depths of the wine. The bouquet is intense, with the cabernet much in evidence in the form of graphite shaving and some cedar; the combination brings to mind the finger paints I played with as a child, and there is also some forest berry fruit, and also underlying savory accents and spice. Pleasant in a fairly international key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich chewy dark forest berry fruit, in particular black currants, supported by savory accents and slight peppery spice, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a long cassis laced slightly peppery finish. It's quite approachable in a fairly international key, with rich fruit nicely supported by tannins that are polished but not buffed to a really high shine -- there's an element of dust to them that keeps them interesting -- and will drink nicely now with succulent though not too fatty red meats, for example roast beef cooked medium rare and sliced fairly thickly. It's a nice integration of international and local varietals, and has pleasant verve and personality.
88-90

Tasted at Vinitaly: Cà Lojera

I met Cà Lojera's Ambra Tiraboschi, who looks rather like Maria Callas in the photo she puts up in her stand at Vinitaly, many years ago at Bordeaux's Vinexpo: It was the end of a very long day, my feet wished they belonged to someone else, and I had stopped to say hi to Paolo Abbona of Marchesi di Barolo. Sat down too, and found myself sipping a rather nice sparkling wine that turned out to be a Lugana from the southern shores of Lake Garda.

When I asked whose it was, Ambra raised her hand and smiled. Much has happened since then; they've redone their cellars and added a restaurant, which is open for dinner during the summer months, and Ambra's daughter Alessandra has had two delightful children. I make a point of stopping by her stand at Vinitaly every year. This year her husband Franco, who dislikes the limelight, was not there, but there was another surprise: she had redone her labels, with drawings by Angelo Peretti, friend and colleague who is also Director of the Consorzio del Bardolino.

Cà Lojera Lugana 2011
Lot TF 02 12
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright loquat laced with loquat acidity and some honeydew melon and underlying vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet loquat fruit supported by some flinty bitterness and fairly bright acidity that opens with loquat and then becomes mineral in the finish, which is fairly long. Pleasant, in a rather languid key, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with fish, especially lake fish.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore 2009
Lot LS.TF.11 Ferments in large wood.
This is a prerelease sample; they are still selling the 2008. It's brilliant brassy white with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch and minerality supported by some dusky bitterness and moderate mineral acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rich loquat fruit laced with some honeydew melon  and slight sweetness, and supported by moderately intense mineral acidity with a loquat underpinning that carries into a fresh fairly long loquat finish with slight butterscotch accents. Pleasant, with considerable depth,and will drink nicely with grilled or roasted fish or white meats, and will also age nicely for several years.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana del Lupo 2009
Lot TF.11.09
This is a Vendemmia Tardiva; it's then fermented in steel. And is a slightly more charged brassy yellow with brilliant greenish brassy reflections and highlights. The bouquet is intense, with brambly heather and some greenish vegetal acidity laced with gunflint and struck granite; it's more mineral than fruit driven on the nose. On the palate it's rich, with elegant loquat fruit supported by honeydew melon  acidity and by slightly flintiness, and flows into a long rather deft loquat finish that gradually fades into loquat tartness. Quite elegant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with grilled or roasted fish. Something to seek out.
90-91

Cà Lojera Belle Metodo Classico 2008
This is a pas dosée that spent 36 months on the lees; it's pale brassy gold with brilliant greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish minerality mingled with breadcrumbs and some savory notes. It's deft and rather crisp in a vegetal key. On the palate it's full, with powerful tart lemony loquat fruit supported by peppery notes from the sparkle and minerality, and by minerality that emerges in the finish, which is quite long. It's a bit exuberant, with the sparkle bursting forth strongly on the tongue, making for a sensation that is more peppery than creamy. If you like softer sparkling wines it wont work as well for you, but it does display a pleasing brashness.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Monte della Guardia Chardonnay 2009
This is a Vino da tavola because they put the varietal on the label and that's not accepted in what it would qualify as. Brassy gold with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is intense, with tropical fruit, passion fruit mingled with some golden delicious apple and slight mentholated accents with underlying sweetness. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense lemony fruit supported by lemony acidity that has slight apple accents and flows into a fairly long slightly savory mineral finish with some citric accents. It's a bit more direct than the Lugana, and will drink well as an aperitif or with simple white fish or white meats. Refreshing.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Rosato Monte Della Guardia
Lot TF 80 11
This is a Vino da Tavola because the local appellations don't forsee making a rosé from Merlot and cabernet; as such it doesn't have a vintage on the label, though the lot indicates 2011. Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with ras mingled with some wild strawberry and some ripe underlying forest berry fruit that's moderately sweet. Welcoming On the palate it's is smooth and fairly rich, with bright strawberry ras fruit supported by moderate acidity and slight tannins that flow into a finish that has slight gunflint accents to balance the sweet smoothness of the fruit. It's a deft, smooth fairly soft Rosato that will drink nicely on a hot day, either among friends or at a picnic. Not quite enough acidity (for me) for it to work as a cookout wine.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Merlot della Guardia 2009
Lot TF ME 09
This is again a Vino da tavola. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright mentholated forest berry fruit supported by some peppery spice and deft berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite round, with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, but do displays some graphite shaving bitterness that carries into a fairly long warm graphite shaving laced finish. It will drink quite well with simple not too fatty grilled meats or ight stews or roasts.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Cabernet della Guardia 2009
Lot TF.01.09
Again, a VDT. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite varietal, with rich bel pepper laced with vegetal notes and some coffee, and also fairly intense spice and underlying forest berry fruit fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a savory vegetal burr, and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with greenish vegetal notes. A classic deft Cabernet, quick on it toes and quite fresh, and if you like the varietal you will enjoy the wine.
2 stars

Ambra always brings a few older wines to Vinitaly:

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore 2001
Lot 07.03
Time does show; it's a considerably deeper brassy gold than the current vintage, with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch and some spice supported by gunflint and citric acidity with some underlying clover honey too. On the palate it's deft, with bright citrc fruit supported by mineral citric acidity and slightl not too sweet honey, with hint sof butterscotch, and slows into a long rather mineral citric finish. Quite pleasant, and proof, as if any were needed, that Lugana is a wine that profits from additional time in bottle. Perfectly fresh.
88-90

Cà Lojera Vigna Silva Lugana 1999
Lot 5 9 00
Charged greenish gold with brilliant golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with dried white pear mingled with minerality and some rather bitter honey, and also some minerality. On the palate it's bright, with lively loquat fruit supported by brisk loquat acidity and slight minerality, and whiule this is quick to write its beautifully woven, with a tight freshness that the more recent, somewhat hotter vintages with sweeter grapes struggle to achieve. A beautiful wine one would certainly not guess is entering its teen years.
91-2

Cà Lojera Monte della Guardia Rosso 2001
Lot 12.07
Almandine with black reflections and briwnish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite tertiary, with leaf tobacco and dried savory mushrooms mingled with spice and sea salt, and some underlying greenish vegetal notes; there's also underbrush and some forest berry fruit fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with pleasant forest berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have a warm slightly earthy feel to them, and flow into a clean rather savory tannic finish. It's pleasant, but has aged considerably more than the whites, and something I would serve with a roast to a wine loving friend of the sort who likes to converse with the wine than to just anyone.
2 stars

Tasted at Vinitaly (and a photo for the week): Cà Lojera

I met Cà Lojera's Ambra Tiraboschi, who looks rather like Maria Callas in the photo she puts up in her stand at Vinitaly, many years ago at Bordeaux's Vinexpo: It was the end of a very long day, my feet wished they belonged to someone else, and I had stopped to say hi to Paolo Abbona of Marchesi di Barolo. Sat down too, and found myself sipping a rather nice sparkling wine that turned out to be a Lugana from the southern shores of Lake Garda.

When I asked whose it was, Ambra raised her hand and smiled. Much has happened since then; they've redone their cellars and added a restaurant, which is open for dinner during the summer months, and Ambra's daughter Alessandra has had two delightful children. I make a point of stopping by her stand at Vinitaly every year. This year her husband Franco, who dislikes the limelight, was not there, but there was another surprise: she had redone her labels, with drawings by Angelo Peretti, friend and colleague who is also Director of the Consorzio del Bardolino.

2010, says Ambra, was a difficult vintage with very uneven ripening thanks to the cool temperatures and rains; they had to work their way though the vineyards repeatedly during the harvest, and the wines from the different passages were very different. "It took a lot to assemble it," she said.

Cà Lojera Lugana DOC 2010
Lot TF 03 11
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with stong greenish accents mingled with minerality and sour lemon fruit, and supported by fairly intense sea salt. On the palate it's ample and languid, with unexpectedly rich loquat fruit that's fairly sweet, and supported by deft minerality that flows into a long mineral finish with a slight bitter counterpoint that continues into the finish. I had expected the acidity to be more citric than mineral from the nose -- and observation -- but it is nicely balanced and will work well as an aperitif or with lake fish.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore 2006
Lot TF LS 06
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with considerable minerality laced with slight butterscotch and slight hints of white fruit, including white pear. Nice depth. On the palate it's rich, with loquat fruit supported by citric acidity that is laced with butterscotch bitterness and is supported by some savory accents that flow into a clean loquat-laced finish with a bitter slightly tannic underpinning that also has some sea salt to it. Pleasant, and though it's a little powerful to work as an aperitif, it will be quite nice with grilled or roasted fish, and will also work well with creamy risotti and white meats. In short, versatile.
88-90

Cà Lojera Lugana del Lupo Lugana DOC 2006
Lot TF LL 06
Brilliant brassy yellow-gold with brassy gold reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is rich, with butterscotch supported by some greenish accents and hints of tamarind, and also dusky greenish honeydew melon with hints of honeysuckle as well. Nice depth and complexity. On the palate it's ample, with rich minerality supported by languid butterscotch and mineral acidity that flow into a fairly long mineral finish with some butterscotch accents. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif, or with delicate fish or white meats.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Chardonnay Monte della Guardia 2009
Lot TF 09 04
This year Ambra decided, since the people at the Garda DOC appellation refused to let her bottle her rosé, made from red grapes that go into two Garda DOC wines, as Garda DOC, that she would label all of the wines that qualify as Garda DOC as Vino Da tavola, table wine. I can't but agree with her decision.

This said, the Chardonnay is brilliant brassy yellow with white rim, and has an elegant bouquet with rich floral accents supported by slight citric fruit and some minerality, with slight butterscotch sweetness as well. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony honeydew melon fruit supported by minerality and some savory accents, and flows into a fairly long tart finish. Graceful, and quite pleasant; it clearly draws from a better vintage than the 2010 Lugana, and is quite pleasant to drink. It will work very well with grilled or roasted fish, and would be nice with perch and polenta, a classic dish from Lake Garda.
90-91

Cà Lojera Tur Blanc Metodo Classico 2008
Something new! Pale brassy yellow with brilliant reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is is pleasant, with bread crumbs and citric accents supported by some gunflint and slight butterscotch with underlying bitterness. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh gunflint shot lemony fruit supported by sparkle and citric-mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish with a sea salt underpinning. Pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif, and also be a nice wine to drink a tutto pasto.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Rosato Monte della Guardia 2010
Lot TF RO 10
Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with ith raspberry fruit supported by some spice, also some savory accents. It's a bit disjointed, and this is because it was just bottled. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich moderately sweet raspberry fruit supported by delicate acidity and some bitter accents, and it flows into a clean slightly sour raspberry finish. Pleasant in a light key, and will work nicely as an aperitif, with simple summer dishes, or with friends on a summer evening.
1 star

Cà Lojera Merlot Monte della Guardia 2008
Lot TF ME 10
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with fairly pronounced warmth and some vegetal accents, not quite bell pepper but green, and fairly intense graphite shavings too. Up front in a smiling sort of way. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with dusky berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and tannins that are extremely smooth, as Merlot's are want to be, becoming drier in the finish, and assuming some savory brambly accents. Pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent not too fatty red or white meats; it would be nice with roast beef cooked medium rare and sliced thick, or with pork loin, for example.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Cabernet Monte della Guardia 2008
Lot TF CA 08
Dusky brick ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite varietal, with rich slightly brandied cherry and forest berry fruit supported by grilled pepper and sea salt with some spice and hints of graphite shavings as well. On the palate it's quite pleasant, with bright smooth back cherry fruit laced with ripe currants and hints of blackberry sweetness, and supported by fairly bright mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have warm grilled pepper accents that complement the fruit and emerge nicely in the finish, which is fairly long and gradually dries. It's one of those wines you can set out and drink, and suddenly realize you're paying more attention to than you expected to, rather like a person who comes across as simple but turns out to be a very good conversationalist. It will be quite nice with grilled meats or light roasts, and if you like Cabernet -- it makes no bones about what it is -- you will enjoy it.
88-90

Tasted at Vinitaly: Cà Lojera

I met Cà Lojera's Ambra Tiraboschi, who looks rather like Maria Callas in the photo she puts up in her stand at Vinitaly, many years ago at Bordeaux's Vinexpo: It was the end of a very long day, my feet wished they belonged to someone else, and I had stopped to say hi to Paolo Abbona of Marchesi di Barolo. Sat down too, and found myself sipping a rather nice sparkling wine that turned out to be a Lugana from the southern shores of Lake Garda.

When I asked whose it was, Ambra raised her hand and smiled. Much has happened since then; they've redone their cellars and added a restaurant, which is open for dinner during the summer months, and Ambra's daughter Alessandra has had two delightful children. I make a point of stopping by her stand at Vinitaly every year, usually managing to catch her husband Franco too (he prefers to stay out of the limelight), and have noted with considerable pleasure that since I began liking their wines others have too. In fact, AIS, the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers, declared their wines the best of the Brescano area (Lake Garda's western shore) for 2009. And well they might:

Cà Lojera Lugana DOC 2008
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft with herbal accents mingled with some sage and tart lemony citric fruit. Nice balance,a nd pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's pleasant, with lively white berry and lemony fruit supported by deft citric acidity and by clean slightly greenish accents that flow into a long clean citric finish. Quite nice, and though it is very young, and will age well for at least 5-8 years, will drink well with fried fish, grilled fish, and also fried meats now. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana DOC 2009
They have a new label for this wine, and the wine was fermented under reducing conditions - the first time they have done this -- and stayed on the lees until bottling. It's brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with heather and some spice mingled with underbrush and delicate white blossoms; by comparison with the 2008 it's less acidic on the nose. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich fairly sweet honeydew melon fruit supported by clean bright honeydew melon and loquat acidity, and some glycerin, and slight brambly accents that add depth, and it all flows into a clean slightly greenish finish. Very nice, with considerable depth, and because it is a touch sweeter and a touch more fruit-driven, will work quite well with fish, and also be a nice accompaniment to oriental dishes, especially sushi. Approachable.
88

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore DOC 2006
Pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with fairly rich slightly greenish lemony acidity supported by some greenish vegetal accents and some spice. Nice depth and balance. On the palate it's full, with rich white fruit that's towards Regina Claudia plums, supported by savory notes and fresh slightly greenish mineral acidity that flows into a clean fresh fairly dusky finish with white fruit and lasting savory warmth. It's more confusing to write than to taste, and will drink very well with fish based risotti or pasta dishes, and also with grilled or roasted finish, and also will work nice with creamy white meats.
88

Cà Lojera Lugana Riserva Del Lupo DOC 2006
This is a vendemmia tardiva, or late harvested wine. Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish herbal accents mingled with sour citric acidity and some bramble, also white berry fruit and some berry fruit spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant slightly greenish apricot fruit supported by lively acidity that has dusky overtones and flows into a clean fresh berry white berry fruit finish with a savory acidic underpinning. It's still quite young, but has considerable depth and will drink well with grilled or roasted fish, and also with creamy dishes featuring white meats. I would, however, give it a year or two to come together and show its best, because we're not there yet.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana Riserva del Lupo DOC 2003
This was the first vintage of the Riserva; it's brassy gold with brassy reflections, and though it is a little darker than the 06 it's not that much darker. The bouquet is elegant, with rich white berry fruit supported by clean sour lemon acidity and dusky bitter honey, and by elegant savory gunflint that emerges as the wine opens. A lot going on. On the palate it's ample, with rich white fruit supported by strong savory accents and flows into a clean fairly sour brambly white berry fruit finish with considerable warmth that lasts, and lasts. Quite nice, and is very much alive; it has a great deal to say and one could drink it by itself (advice for hopeless wine geeks) though it will also work very well with succulent grilled fish, including lake trout, and also with roasted fish. I would also be tempted to serve it with white meats.
90

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore DOC 2001
Brilliant brassy gold with lively brassy reflections and white rim; one wouldn't guess its age.. The bouquet is elegant, with minerality and some sour lemon fruit mingled with savory accents and clean bitter notes. On the palate it's ample though it begins to show its age, with warm decidedly mineral citric fruit supported by minerality and savory accents that flow into a clean mineral finish. It's clearly mature, but has a lacy elegance to it, and it has a story to tell. Something to seek out and listen to, even if you like young fresh whites, because the telling is interesting. It is entering middle age, but is still very fresh, and not at all tired.
2 stars

Ambra has also decided to make a Metodo Classico, and a bottle taken from the bin where they are aging shows considerable depth and elegance, and is supported by nice acidity too. It will be something to look forward to.

For more information on Cà Lojera, check Ambra and Franco's Site.

Cà Lojera: Tasty Lugana and More (Reprise)

I met Cà Lojera's Ambra Tiraboschi, who looks rather like Maria Callas in the photo she puts up in her stand at Vinitaly, many years ago at Bordeaux's Vinexpo: It was the end of a very long day, my feet wished they belonged to someone else, and I had stopped to say hi to Paolo Abbona of Marchesi di Barolo. Sat down too, and found myself sipping a rather nice sparkling wine that turned out to be a Lugana from the southern shores of Lake Garda.

When I asked whose it was, Ambra raised her hand and smiled. Much has happened since then; they've redone their cellars and added a restaurant, which is open for dinner during the summer months, and Ambra's daughter Alessandra has had two delightful children. I make a point of stopping by her stand at Vinitaly every year, usually managing to catch her husband Franco too (he prefers to stay out of the limelight), and have noted with considerable pleasure that since I began liking their wines others have too. In fact, AIS, the Associazione Italiana Sommeliers, declared their wines the best of the Brescano area (Lake Garda's western shore) for 2009. And well they might:

Cà Lojera Lugana DOC 2007
Lot TF209
Last year's wine: Delicate brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with minerality and some white berry fruit laced with greenish accents and moderate acidity coupled with spice. Graceful. On the palate it's full and bright, with graceful warm yellow plum fruit supported by clean acidity and savory accents that flow into a clean bright gunflint laced finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well with fish or vegetable based first course dishes (and also creamy risotti in general), fish, and white meats that aren't too fatty rich -- a chicken pot pie for example.
87-90

Cà Lojera Lugana DOC 2008
Lot TT0309
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh and very young, with moderate honeysuckle supported by spice and savory notes. Nice depth in its youth. On the palate it's rich and full with yellow plum fruit and acidity supported by hints of minerality that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. Quite pleasant, though it's going to be much better in a year's time,and is worth waiting for. Beautiful wine.
88 now

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore DOC 2004
Lot 504
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fresh and deft, with clean mineral accents and spice mingled with gunflint and moderate acidity. Pleasant, and mature. On the palate it's full and quite rich, with deft yellow plum fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity that flows into a clean fresh mineral finish with greenish tannic accents that become quite savory. Quite nice though not a wine to drink far from the table; it will instead nicely complement rich fish dishes, e.g. grilled sea bass or even grilled salmon. Very nice, and has a great deal to say.
90

Cà Lojera Lugana Riserva del Lupo DOC 2004
Lot LR04
Deep brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with greenish gunflint accents and barest hints of butterscotch and bitterness mingled with yellow peach, and savory notes. Quite a lot going on, and it opens very well. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful minerality supported by clean fresh tart berry fruit acidity that flows into a spicy finish with lasting warmth. Quite elegant and rich, with considerable depth; it will drink very well with grilled fish, or other rich flavorful foods, and also has the capacity to age nicely for several more years.
88-90

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore DOC 2001
Lot 0703
Lively charged brassy gold with brassy reflections that have brilliant golden hues; it looks its age. The bouquet is fresh, impressively so considering the wine's age, with clean lemony fruit supported by some greenish accent and deft spice with hints of butterscotch. On the palate it's full, rich, and clean, with fresh lively white berry fruit supported by considerable savoriness and by sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. Pleasant and has kept very well, furnishing further proof -- if any was needed -- of Lugana's ability to age.

Cà Lojera Garda DOC Chardonnay 2006
Forgot to note lot number
Brassy gold with brilliant greenish brassy reflections. The bouquet is bright, with tropical fruit laced with some hardwood ash and greenish spice, and supported by alcohol as well. On the palate it's full and rich in a rather seductive key with swank citric fruit supported by deft acidity that flows into a clean slightly overripe tropical fruit finish. Pleasant, and has considerable life, though it doesn't display the tight control of the Lugana.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Garda Chardonnay DOC 2001
Lot 15402
Brilliant lemony yellow with brassy reflections that pale to white at the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean fresh savory white fruit supported by minerality and spice, and some pungency as well. Quite pleasant. On the palate it's ample and rich, with tropical fruit -- honeydew melon and some pineapple -- supported by warm savory accents that flow into a clean bright rather citric finish. Impressive for an Italian wine this old, but then again I have come to expect this sort of performance from Ambra's wines.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Vino da Tavola Rosato
Lot not apparent.
Lively salmon with pink rim paling to white. The bouquet is fresh and bright, with fairly rich raspberry supported by bright greenish acidity. On the palate it's full (for a rosée), with lively righ red berry fruit supported by acidity and light smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh raspberry finish. Quite pleasant and approachable.
2 stars

For more information on Cà Lojera, check Ambra and Franco's Site

Cà Lojera: Tasty Lugana and More

I met Ambra Tiraboschi, who looks rather like Maria Callas in the photo she puts up in her stand at Vinitaly, many years ago at Bordeaux's Vinexpo: It was the end of a very long day, my feet wished they belonged to someone else, and I had stopped to say hi to Paolo Abbona of Marchesi di Barolo. Sat down too, and found myself sipping a rather nice sparkling wine that turned out to be a Lugana from the southern shores of Lake Garda.

When I asked whose it was, Ambra raised her hand and smiled. Since then I've made a point of stopping by her stand at Vinitaly every year, usually managing to catch her husband Franco too (he prefers to stay out of the limelight), and have noted with considerable pleasure that since I began liking their wines others have too.

This year we began with:

Cà Lojera Lugana 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections. Elegant bouquet with honeysuckle and white berry fruit mingled with apricot and green peach. Deft. On the palate full and rich with powerful white peach supported by deft citric acidity and sufficient sweetness that give it a pleasant languor as well Quite pleasant, and will work very well with fish or white meats, and be a good choice as an aperitif too. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana Superiore 2003
Brassy gold with brassy golden reflections; quite charged -- the vintage was powerful, and it fermented in large wood, spending a number of months in it thereafter, with frequent battonages. The bouquet is fairly intense with butterscotch and airy white blossoms mingled with hints of caramel. Quite fresh, and clearly from a hot vintage; as it opens some gunflint and pungent floral accents emerge. On the palate it's quite fresh, and full, with bright grapefruit and very ripe pineapple that flows into a long pineapple laced finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with rich fish dishes including fattier grilled fish or creamy fish risotti. It's a beautiful expression of a torrid vintage, and shows, as if there were any need, that Lugana can age well.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Lugana Riserva Del Lupo 2004
Cà Lojera means "the house of the wolves," and is a reference to the fact that homes along the lakeside were used by smugglers, whoul would warn passersby to keep their distance by saying there were wolves about. The wine is a lively greenish gold with greenish highlights, and has a fairly rich bouquet with savory accents and some crisp tropical fruit mingled with airy minerality. On the palate it's full, with ample lemony citrus fruit supported by peppery notes that provide depth and lead into a clean tart finish with some smoky overtones. Pleasant, and will be nice as an aperitif or with flavorful fish; it has a lot to say.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Garda Chardonnay 2007
I tasted this the first time I stopped at Ambra's stand in 1998, and have been tasting it every year since then. It's a beautiful brassy gold with some greenish reflections, and has a powerful bouquet with butterscotch and honey mingled with some lemony fruit and green apricot with underlying mineral accents. On the palate it's full and languid, with clean rich lime and apple -- ripe delicious -- fruit and quite a bit of glycerin that makes for a decidedly creamy mouthfeel, and flows into a clean rich finish. Very nice, and has held up very well. A fine expression of a very good vintage.
88-90

Cà Lojera Chardonnay Garda 2001
This time's vintage; it's deep gold with lively golden reflections The bouquet isn't as rich as the 97's; it has clean minerality with some bramble and underlying butterscotch, which is capitalized in my notes. On the palate it's very much alive, with rich lemony citric fruit supported by glycerin and slight savory accents that flow into a clean savory finish with nice acidity to perk it up and keep it on its toes. Quite nice, and would have had me crowing in admiration if there weren't the 97.
2 stars

Ambra and Franco could, if they wanted to, make Bardolino as their red wine. They have chosen not to because they wouldn't make much, and what little they made would "be a drop in an ocean." So they instead plant Cabernet and Merlot, which stand out more.

Cà Lojera Monte della Guardia Rosato 2006
Dusky pink with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is rich, with bright forest berry fruit and raspberry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively forest berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish acidity that flows into a clean finish with bitter accents. It will be quite nice as a picnic wine or with simple foods; there's not quite enough tartness to it -- rather, a slight sweetness -- for it to work with things such as fried foods.
1 star

Cà Lojera Garda Cabernet 2004
Brick ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is typical of Cabernet, with red berry fruit mingled with bell pepper and cedar-laced spice, and underlying vegetal accents. Nice balance, and quite fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied with clean rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some peppery vegetal accents and clean pencil shaving bitterness, and flow into a clean fairly tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats or light stews; expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Cà Lojera Garda Merlot 2004
Delicate brick ruby with brick reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with black currants and some vegetal caccents supported by spice and moderate mentholated acidity. Graceful. On the palate it's medium bodied and very smooth, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins, while direction comes from deft acidity that leads into a clean, slightly tart fruit laced finish. It will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews and will go quickly; by comparison with the cabernet it's a bit more approachable, what an Italian might call ammiccante, in other words giving a come-hither look.
2 stars

Want to know more: Cà Lojera's Site