Carmignano: The 2010, 2009 and 2008 Vintages - and More!

The Carmignano Appellation has just presented the new releases of Carmignano, a red wine that is similar to Chianti in that it is primarily Sangiovese, the classic Tuscan red varietal, and different because the Appellation requires 10-20% Cabernet, a nod to Cosimo III de'Medici, who planted and experimented uva Franciosa, as it was called, in his Carmignano vineyards in the early 1700s.

Though the Cabernet has had time to become acclimatized and adapt to its Tuscan surroundings, 10-20% is quite enough to have a powerful influence upon the wine, and with respect to other Central Tuscan wines that lack it Carmignano tends to be more vegetal, with notes of hay or green vegetables, in particular bell pepper, on the nose, and earthy Cabernet-derived accents to the fruit, while the tannic structure also reveals Cabernet facets.

In short, Carmignano stands out from the other Central Tuscan appellations, especially now that those in Chianti are turning away from the international varietals that were all the rage 10-15 years ago, and as such it offers a pleasant change of pace. For a considerably more detailed discussion of the appellation, see my introduction to the 2009 presentation.

This year's presentation was once again held at Capezzana, which is by far the most important estate in the Carmignano appellation.

The vintages presented ranged from 2011 for some of the whites and the Vin Ruspo, Carmignano's Rosato, to 2010 for the Barco Reale, Carmignano's ligher red, 2010 for most the Carmignano vintage wine, and on to 2009-2008 for the Riserva wines, while some of the IGT wines and Vinsanti were from older vintages.

Taken as a group the 2010 vintage Carmignano displays considerable cabernet, which overshadows Sangiovese, presenting as vegetal accents and with a certain warmth. The 2009 and 2008 wines tend to be brighter, with the fruit shifted more towards red berry fruit and less towards plum, and are also markedly less vegetal.


The wines, Tasted February 18 2012

Podere Allocco

Podere Allocco Trebbiano IGT Toscana 2010

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich floral accents mingled with straw, some brambly acidity vegetal underpinning. Zesty. On the palate it's fairly rich, in an ample key with strong slightly overripe white berry fruit supported by greenish bitter accents that carry into a fairly long finish with greenish accents and some butterscotch as well It's a little more charged than I might have liked on the palate, and heavy rather than agile, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. A wine that will work well with more substantial offerings that will profit from its power. Not much minerality; the fullness is more glycerin and alcohol.
1 star

Podere Allocco Bacano IGT Toscana 2010

Brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent minerality and some butterscotch supported by dusky shadowy notes and some overripe pear, and brambly acidity as well. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant slightly bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish. Deft, in a decidedly mineral key, with more minerality than fruit acidity, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cocoa, slight sandalwood, and berry fruit mingled with some greenish vegetal accents, the combination somehow brings a hostess cupcake to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rather smoky greenish vegetal notes supported by spice and menthol more than fruit, and it flows into a rather blocky peppery finish with spicy underpinning. It's a touch more vegetal than I might have liked.
1 star

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with smoky red berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a cedary underpinning and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with greenish tannic underpinning and fairly intense vegetal accents. Quite approachable in a young key, and will drink well with red meats.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though some greenish accents emerge, mingled with acidity and hints of balsam. Promising but not really developed yet. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents, sour minerality and tannins that are smooth and quite powerful, flowing into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning, Quite promising, and if the nose follows the palate's lead will be something to look out for.

Tenuta Capezzana

Tenuta Capezzana Trebbiano di Capezzana IGT Toscana 2008

Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections. the bouquet is deft, and elegant, with mineral laced butterscotch supported by deft spice and some pleasing greenish vegetal accents. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with butterscotch laced minerality supported by mineral acidity and slight tannins that have a slightly brambly feel to them and flow into a clean dry butterscotch laced finish with some caramel overtones. Quite pleasant in a rich international key, and is one of the finer expressions of this wine that I have tasted; by comparison with other vintages more fruit and more minerality from grapes emerges, making it more interesting.
88-90

Tenuta Capezzana Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Slightly duskier pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky red berry fruit supported by some bramble and savory notes, and moderate red berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense raspberry cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a warm rather sour mineral laced finish with bitter underpinning. A fairly direct wine in a simple up front key.
1 star

Tenuta Capezzana Barco Reale DOCG 2009

Fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with a great gout of greenish violets mingled with spice and leather; with a rush of sea breeze as well. Unusual. On the palate it's bright, with richer than expected cherry black currant fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some vegetal accents, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and lead into a clean bitter finish. Fresh, and still a bit in the air; it will work well with simple grilled meats, for example thick burgers, and in the proper context will be perfect. But it does need until summer for the nose to come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2010

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violet laced plume cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents that bring gum Arabic to mind, and some spice as well. Quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's ample in a ripe key, with fairly rich prune plum fruit supported by moderate savory acidity and quite a bit of sea salt, and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay with some sweetness from wood as well, and flow into a clean savory vanilla laced finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and if you like the style is quite approachable and a wine you will enjoy considerably.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents, chalk dust, and some peppery spice, also some berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents, peppery spice and tannins that have a warm peppery and belle pepper burr, flow into a sandalwood laced finish that's quite dry. It needs another year to come together, and will be quite different when it has.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with sandalwood and some balsam, and with some vegetal accents as it opens. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that have warm slightly balsamic savory accents, and flow into a clean savory berry fruit finish. It needs another year to fold in, but is pleasant in a ripe key; while the fruit has shifted into prunes and plums there is still red fruit acidity, and this confers a degree of verve.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is savory; with some greenish accents that -- at first swish -- brought a bean pot to mind, and then opened to reveal vegetal notes more than fruit. It gives an impression of being in mod stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm balsamic burr and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. Needs another couple of years to come together and smooth, at which point it should be fairly traditional (and quite improved), though that's for the future, and not today.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2006

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot. Impenetrable black cherry with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some minerality mingled with cherry fruit and some forest berry fruit, and also slight vegetal accents. Graceful in a lacy sort of way. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and though well polished not retiring, and flow into a clean fairly bright tannic finish with hints of balsam and more evident savory berry fruit accents. Quite pleasant, though young, and will also age nicely for many years.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Sessanta IGT Toscana 2007

From a Magnum
This is a Merlot. Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with underbrush and red berry fruit supporting some sour berry fruit and pleasant greenish accents; there's something voluptuous to it. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smoky accents and tannins that are warm and rather balsamic, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with balsamic underpinning. Quite young but also quite pleasant with deft grace, and will drink very well with foods, and also age nicely for a decade or more.
88-90

Tenuta di Capezzana Capezzana 804 IGT Toscana 2004

From a Magnum
This is a Syrah. Deep pyrope ruby with some purple in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some underbrush and savory accents with underlying cherry plum fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich in a decidedly savory balsamic key with plum cherry fruit supported by warm savory tannins and sour balsamic acidity that flow into a fairly long savory tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs time to come together -- I had the impression of looking in on a nursery school with it. A bit too young to score, because it could go in any of several directions. All good, but I want to see where it goes first.

Tenuta Capezzana Vinsanto 2006

Tawny amber with brilliant orange reflections and slightly greenish rim. The bouquet is powerful and sweet, with dried fruit, dates and figs, supported by some caramel and brown sugar, and warm nose tingling acidity with some almonds and walnuts skins as well. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich date and fig fruit supported by bright date acidity and sweetness that is brown sugar with hints of maple, and the sugar is intense enough to leave a granular trail across the tongue, flowing into a fairly long finish that has some walnuts, and then fades into sweetness. Quite pleasant in a very sweet key, and if you like this sweeter style of vinsanto, which brings the wines of Montepulciano to mind, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Castelvecchio

Castelvecchio Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Pale pink with brilliant electric pink reflections. The bouquet is fresh and bright, with lively raspberry fruit and raspberry acidity supported by some red blossoms and slight jammy accents with hints of vegetal underpinning. Voluptuous, and the jam increases the curves. On the palate it's bright, with lively raspberry fruit that is supported by acidity and slight brambly tannins, and gains fullness from slight sweetness, which again accentuates the curves. Pleasant, and will be quite refreshing in the summer months, an ideal picnic wine.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some mentholated notes, also some dusky black pepper and slight sandalwood. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary graphite shaving bitterness, and by warm sandalwood laced acidity, which flow into a clean rather vegetal finish with underlying grilled pepper and pencil shaving bitterness. Pleasant, in a fairly bright key.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with powerful vegetal and bell pepper accents mingled with berry fruit and chalk dust, and some mentholated notes as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly bright, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish almost balsamic tannins and warm greenish acidity that flows into a warm balsam laced finish that's rather blocky. I'd have liked more depth and verve.
1 star

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with polished leather and some spice mingled with cumin seeds and savory accents. Not much fruit, though as it opens some savory barnyard tang with greenish balsamic accents emerges On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean savory finish. It's a bit behind, the nose especially, and needs a year to come together and develop. It will with time become ethereal, in a traditional key, but has a little less fruit than I might have liked.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Vinsanto 2007

Pale amber with brilliant apricot reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly sweet, with greenish vegetal accents and green apricot mingled with some almonds and hints of dates and figs that as they gain in intensity replace the vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly direct, with sweet dried fruit, dates in particular, and date sweetness, which gives way to walnut skins as it flows into the finish, which is walnutty. It's a bit more direct than I like, and the finish is rather abrupt, with the fruit dropping off to give way to the walnuts.
1 star

Artimino

Artimino Rosato Vin Ruspo DOCG 2011

Lively raspberry pink with brilliant electric pink reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with slight bell pepper and sour berry fruit with hints of bell pepper jam as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish sour berry fruit supported by bell pepper bitterness and by some savory notes, while there are also light slightly splintery tannins. Quite fresh, though a touch coarser than the Castelvecchio -- and this will make it better suited to accompanying fried white meats or fish, a summer favorite -- while it will be a nice picnic or cookout wine too.
2 stars

Artimino Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by dusky spice more than acidity, and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with slight graphite shavings. On the palate it's brighter than expected from the nose, though in a brooding key, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an abundance of bitter graphite shavings and flow into a slightly smoky sour bitter finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose, in a decidedly vegetal key, and it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2010

Impenetrable purple ruby ink with purple ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with belle pepper and vegetal accents, and supported by some savory notes as well, and by some metallic smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with plum cherry fruit supported by dusky minerality and graphite shaving bitterness more than acidity, and flows into a rather dusky finish. Despite the ripeness of the fruit it's a brooding wine, and while I would have liked a little more verve out of personal preference it is quite harmonious, with everything precisely where it should be.
2 stars

Artimino Villa Artimino Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and somewhat greenish, with savory accents more than berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with greenish sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that have a splintery greenish burr and flow into a fairly long savory finish. I found the palate more interesting than the nose, though it is a touch thinner than I might have liked.
1 star

Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with India ink bitterness mingled with spice and iodine,a nd some plum cherry fruit as well. Coming together. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by considerable vegetal laced graphite shavings bitterness and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean bitter finish. Promising, in a rather austere key, with more minerality and more vegetal accents than some, and will also age nicely.

Artimino Villa Medicea Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite mineral with some nose tingling acidity and spice, also some greenish wet leather. Dusky, bringing dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's pleasant, in a fairly mineral key, with savory red berry fruit supported by warm rather balsamic acidity and by smooth balsam-laced tannins that flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though one could drink it now it will have more to say in a few years, and will be reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Artimino Vinsanto Occhio di Pernice 2006

Tawny amber with brilliant orange reflections and greenish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and sweet, with orange and slight quinine notes mingled with minerality and some almonds, bit none of the brown sugar or walnuts one often finds in a vinsanto. It's going in a slightly different direction, and interesting. The palate reflects the nose; it's fairly sweet, with hints of orange and quinine bitterness that provides definition, and also some acidity, though its' more the quinine that carries the show, and it flows into a fairly bright bitter finish. Unusual; this is the first time I've encountered quinine in a vinsanto, and I'm not sure what to think of it.
1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete

Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with mineral laced greenish bell pepper fruit supported by chalk and artichoke stem as well, and also some cedar. Shadowy. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately bright decidedly vegetal fruit supported by tannins that have considerable graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a rather bitter savory finish. Smoky, and will work well with succulent meats.
2 stars


Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale DOCG 2009

Moderately deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by sweetish accents and slight dusky graphite, with hints of underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich, ripe, fairly sweet forest berry fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity and by tannins that are ample and have a slightly splintery burr that gives texture to their underlying smoothness. It's fairly voluptuous, in a rich ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable savory greenish vegetal accents and some peppery spice, but less red fruit that I might have expected. The French varietals seem to be covering a lot. On the palate it's ample, with cherry plum fruit supported by minerality and tannins that have a clean bright mineral burr to them, and flow into a vegetal laced finish with black currant fruit underpinning that fades to savory notes. Pleasant in a fairly ripe key, and needs another year to come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by savory accents, some black pepper, slight greenish notes, and hints of petroleum. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit laced with black currant fruit and supported by sour mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and slightly glancing, flowing into a savory mineral finish with underlying tannic burr. Pleasant in a young key, the tannins are still coming together. Will age well.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vegetal accents, some cedar, savory notes and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather languid, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory spice and tannins that have a warm slightly splintery burr, flow into a clean savory finish with cherry plum underpinning

Podere il Sassolo

Podere il Sassolo Barco Reale DOCG 2010

Pale cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with zesty greenish vegetal accents supported by acidity and moderate red berry fruit. It's still coming together. On the palate it's fairly light, with fresh sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral acidity with some fruit overtones and by tannins that are light and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. A pleasant lark of a wine that will work quite well with meat based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, including fattier cuts such as lamb chops, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. It doesn't try to be more than a Barco should be.
2 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is a bit up in the air, with airiness that brings paper to mind supported by chalk and some greenish accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with dusky rather bitter fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr; it revolves more around bitterness than fruit, and will most likely continue on this path with time.
1 star

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by some yellow peach, and by greenish accents as well, with some spice too. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and by tannins that are warm and rather balsamic, flowing into a warm slightly balsamic sour berry fruit finish pleasant in a more traditional key, and though it needs time will already work well with steaks or other hearty grilled meats.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina in Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up bramble and minerality with dried artichoke stem greenness and some spice too. Not much fruit On the palate it's bright, and quite vegetal, with artichoke more than bell pepper greenness, and smooth dusky greenish tannins with some balsamic accents, and it flow into a warm fairly greenish finish. It's still very young, and needs at least a couple of years to come together.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections anc cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, swishing brings up savory notes, slight balsam, and spice more than fruit. On the palate it's ample with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and quite forward, laying a spicy veneer over the tongue. Very young, and needs time. I would have however liked more fruit.


Fattoria Ambra Elzana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky savory notes and balsamic accents mingled with cocoa and some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly irpe with plum fruit supported more by minerality than acidty, and by tannins that are cedar laced and flow into a cedar laced finish with underlying bitterness. I's have liked more depth and verve; it's a little flatter than I might have wanted.

Pratesi

Pratesi Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, and fairly fresh, with dusky violets supported by sea salt and bell peppers with some artichoke greenness as well, and by underlying forest berry fruit. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry black currant fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary underpinning and are still quite dry, need time to fold in. Promising however, and will do interesting things with time, I think. It grew on me.
2 stars

Pratesi Locorosso Carmignano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite green, with artichoke stems more than peppers and some tobacco, with slight savory notes as well. On the palate it's brighter than expected, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some bell pepper accents, and by tannins that are warm and slightly cedar laced with hints vanilla and sandalwood, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with some vegetal accents. Pleasant though young, and will do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Pratesi Circo Rosso Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsam laced prune cherry fruit supported by savory notes and hardwood ash with some greenish vegetal acidity. On the palate it's pleasant at the outset, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity that surrenders to cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly long, quite powerful cedar laced finish. At present the tannins are overly dry and bring the fruit to its knees; we will have to wait to see how they fold in with time.

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2006

This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some plum cherry fruit supported by delicate vegetal accents mingled with some cut squash and hints of shellac. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by balsamic accents, and by tannins that are warm and balsamic, and at present gradually emerge, predominating. A little too much oak for me now, and I doubt the fruit will ever really throw it off.
1 star

Piaggia

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly sharp, with penetrating greenish accents and acidity supporting prune plum fruit, and some vegetal notes as well with a savory underpinning. On the palate it's riper than I expected, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish cedary overlay and by moderate minerality more than fruit driven acidity, which flows into a fairly long greenish finish that has hints of sweetness, which are likely alcohol. Approachable in a ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But do give it a couple of years to get its bearings.
2 stars

Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2009

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim that has hints almandine. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and sea salt supported by some vegetal notes, more grass and Sichuan preserved vegetable than bell peppers. On the palate it's rich and languid in a quite ripe key, with rich plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that have a slight vegetal burr, and flow into a fairly long, fairly sweet prune finish. Pleasant in a decidedly international key, and if you like rich ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it; the palate is ahead of the nose and I would give the nose another year to come together.
2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and fresh for a Riserva, with violets mingled with spice and sandalwood with some nose tingling vegetal acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with rich plum cherry fruit that's fairly sweet supported by tannins that have fairly intense barrel sample bitterness to them, and some mineral acidity that flows into a dusky plum fruit laced mineral finish. Opulent, and as the tannins smooth and fold in it will be even more opulent.

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory smoky sea salt and spice, and is also rather penetrating. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, ans sweeter than I expected, with vegetal notes that carry more than the plum prune fruit present, and mineral acidity, while the tannins are warm and splintery, flowing into a clean rather mineral finish with some underlying plum fruit. It needs time, a year or two, and is a little riper than I might have liked, Personal preference.
2 stars

Piaggia Poggio De'Colli IGT Toscana 2009

This is a Cabernet Franc. Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and underbrush mingled with deft red berry fruit and some acidity; nice depth and harmony, and as it opens there are hints of yellow peach as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by peppery spice and tannins that have a warm savory burr, and flow into a clean savory finish with hints of cocoa and underlying berry fruit. A different varietal? Perhaps; it revolves more around finesse than power, though there is that too, and it has nice aging potential as well.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and quite vegetal, with greenish berry fruit accents mingled with sandalwood and spice that almost brings incense to mind, On the palate it's ample and quite ripe with cherry and back currant-cassis fruit supported by tannins that have an inky graphite shaving overlay, and by minerality more than acidity, which flows into a clean rather mineral tannic finish. It's not quite lush enough to be a sexpot wine, but is pleasingly fruit driven and headed in that direction. If you prefer tighter wines with more acidity and more aggressive tannins it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2009

Impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is intense and rather vegetal, with red berry fruit supported by cut squash greenness mingled with chalk and a certain acidic sweetness. On the palate it's full, quite riep,a nd fairly sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness as much as acidity and by greenish accents that flow into a clean fairly soft plum finish The ripest, sweetest wine tasted so far, something of a starlet in a glass, and if you like the style, which revolves more around alcohol and sweet ripeness of fruit than tannins or acidity, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is frankly atypical for Carmignano.
1 star


Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite green, with cut squash greenness supported by some sour berry fruit and spice; there's something heady to it. On the palate it's full and quite riep, with greenish cherry plum fruit that whose vegetal accents echo the cut squash on the nose, and flow into a greenish berry fruit finish with savory underpinning that becomes quite splintery. It's rich and a bot overripe, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings; I'd have liked a little more aicifty because as the tannins smooth it will I think become rather brooding.
2 stars

Tenuta la Borriana

Tenuta la Borriana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2009 (bottled prerelease sample)

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cassis fruit and some sweetish jammy accents mingled with slight vegetal accents and spice. On the palate it's ample and ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample, with a slight burr, and flow into a slightly splintery fairly sweet fruit laced finish. It's up in the air, but if it comes down right will be pleasant in a ripe soft key.

Tuscan Tempranillo and More, at Pietro Beconcini

San Miniato, a town on the left bank of the Arno River about 30 miles downstream of Florence, is not particularly known for its wine. Not that they don't grow grapes -- they do, and many farmers traditionally sold to nearby areas that are known for their wines -- but the wines they make never enjoyed much of a reputation.

This of course made is extremely difficult for those who did try to support themselves through winemaking, and while Leonardo Beconcini's father Pietro did manage to install a few cement tanks in the cellar under their house, he wasn't able to line them with glass -- that improvement was made by Leonardo, when he took over operations in the early 90s. Since then Leonardo has added a number of new tanks, all but two cement (he bought a pair of steel tanks one year when he was unable to find used cement tanks), which he keeps outside and uses during the winter months, bottling the wines they contain or transferring them to the cellar when it gets too hot out.

For that matter, Leonardo, whose only white is a Vinsanto, also makes do without computer-regulated refrigeration during fermentation: He keeps an eye on the temperatures in the vats, and if the fermenting wine gets too hot transfers it to a cooler tank outside, and then pumps it back over the cap. Temperature control is something he's like, but for now he makes do with what he has.

This frugality of necessity has also had a profound affect on the way he (and his father before him) managed their vineyards: Rather than periodically pull up the vines and replant them, as is generally done in Italy, Leonardo replaces the individual vines that die with cuttings from the best vines in the vineyard. Doing it this way allows him, on the one hand, to not loose production (and income) for the 3-5 years it takes a newly planted vineyard to begin producing, and, on the other, maintains balance in the vineyard, as most of the vines at any given time are mature, and some as much as 80-90 years old. This way of vineyard management has also led to some unusual surprises.

In particular, he had about 300 vines of a red varietal unlike any to be found in any of his neighbors' vineyards. It was quite particular, budding late and ripening early, and from an agronomic standpoint was actually better adapted to the region than Sangiovese, requiring less effort to cultivate as it was much more resistant to funguses and disease, and thus required fewer treatments -- something that is also important from an environmental standpoint. Moreover, it didn't want a tremendous amount of sun, but rather worked well in the lower parts of the hills.

When he tried microvinifying the grapes from the mystery vine separately the resulting wine was good enough that he decided to use it to make a single-varietal wine of it, rather than add it to the blend as they had always done previously. To make a single-varietal wine one must say what the grape is (to the authorities, especially), and this is where he ran into problems -- while the experts who came to look ruled out the various lesser Tuscan indigenous varietals, for example Foglia Tonda or Pugnitello, nobody was willing to hazard a guess as to what it was.

So Leonardo simply called it X, and continued studying it, propagating it through cuttings from the best vines. The answer finally came from Professor Attilio Scienza, who ran a DNA analysis on the mystery vine, and then called Leonardo to ask how it was that he had Tempranillo vines -- vines not exactly like the Tempranillo now grown in Spain, but clearly displaying the same DNA fingerprint -- in his vineyard.

While Tempranillo is very common in Spain, this was its first known occurrence in Italy, and to have it turn up in a very old and very traditionally managed vineyard rather than an experimental vineyard belonging to someone bent on trying new things was puzzling indeed.

The probable answer is a historical accident. San Miniato was one of the rest stops of the Via Francigena, the route pilgrims traveling overland followed to Rome from points to the north and to the west, and the land now belonging to Leonardo's family once belonged to the Bishopric of San Miniato, which was at one point one of the most important in Tuscany. Bishops of course had to manage their lands, and between 1730 and 1780 Leonardo's parish was home to Giovanbattista Landeschi, who was a cleric, but also a respected agronomist, and introduced many innovations; among other things he had the farmers terrace overly steep lands. Don Landeschi was also interested in viticulture, and wrote about making vineyard selections to improve wine quality -- he didn't go so far as to name the vines he was selecting, but it stands to reason that given his interest in vines a pilgrim might have brought him some, a travel souvenir from a trip to Spain, as it were, and that, when he saw that they were good, he propagated them in the vineyards he managed directly.

As I said, Leonardo took advantage of the time he spent trying to identify "Vine X" to study it, and once he got it approved for cultivation used it to rationalize his vineyards. His land, as you can see from the photographs, gently slopes to the valley floor. In the traditional Tuscan manner it was planted primarily to Sangiovese, and he told me that the grapes (red and white) in the lower vineyards, where the soil is also quite clayey, with enough moisture that drought is never a problem -- further up slope there are also abundant of sea shells, scattered through the sediments and also in lenses -- almost never ripened completely, and also suffered from mildew and other problems to an extent that would make them unusable today.

Enter Tempranillo, which buds late, making it less susceptible to the frosts that can strike valley bottoms in the spring, and ripens early too: The cooler temperatures of the valley bottom slow its ripening some, allowing it to develop greater complexity while ripening fully, while its resistance to disease and mildew allow it to stand up to the moisture. So Leonardo has planted the areas unsuited to Tuscan varietals to Tempranillo. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera are in the central areas, and there are also two ridge crest plots planted to Sangiovese, for a total of about 12 hectares.

The Wines, Tasted January 12 2012:

Pietro Boconcini Maurleo IGT Toscana 2008
Lot 54/11
Pietro named this after his two sons, Maurizio and Leonardo. It's their base wine, a 50-50 Sangiovese and Malvasia Nera IGT that was originally planned as a Chianti Superiore, though the grapes available made this impossible. It is, instead, typical for San Miniato, and ages in 2, 3, 4, and 5-year old small oak. Deep cherry with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit laced with some wild berry fruit and slight graphite shavings hints iodine, and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and bright acidity shot with some licorice root, and by tannins that are fairly bright, and flow into a tart slightly vegetal finish. Pleasant in a fairly zesty key; there is lively acidity and the oak balances it without muzzling it, providing a smooth round underpinning. A wine that will work well with grilled meats -- spare ribs, for example -- or stews, and also with hearty meat based pasta dishes -- sugo alla Bolognese for example.
1 stars

Pietro Boconcini Chianti Riserva 2009
Lot 336/11
These grapes are from old vines, and in the past Leonardo put them into Reciso, his Sangiovese in purezza. However, these vines are more productive, and he therefore siphoned them off into a new wine, allowing them to produce more. It's 85% Sangiovese, with a mix of Canaiolo and Malvasia Nera. They have always had some Canaiolo -- not a lot, but some, and he even has some Canaiolo rosa (which for now goes into his reds). It ages in large oak. Black cherry with black reflections and some almandine in the rim, which is brick. The bouquet is moderately rich, with cherry fruit laced with menthol and some brambly accents, and also some acidity to provide zest. Also hints wood smoke. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth. Simple, and fairly direct, a food wine that will work well with what it's served with, not demanding attention, and go very fast.
2 stars

Pietro Boconcini Reciso IGT Toscana 2007
Lot 243/09
This was Leonardo's first wine, first vintage in 1995, and is from 6 small ridge-crest plots on two hilltops. Very steep slopes, and quite different exposures. 4 weeks maceration, more or less. -- it depends upon the quality of the skins. This vintage was aged in barriques and tonneaux (66/33, about 18 months); he now has added 10 hl botti to the mix. Deep black cherry with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by slight menthol, and some graphite shavings with spice and slight bramble, also some sweetness from alcohol -- it's 14.5% . Nice harmony, and the alcohol is not apparent as such. On the palate it's medium bodied, with full cherry fruit laced with nutmeg spice, and supported by minerality and savory notes, quite mineral, and by tannins that have a warm mineral burr and flow into a clean fairly long mineral finish. Quite pleasant in a rather austere key; it's far from a fruit bomb and as such more particular than some. If you like the style you will enjoy it considerably, but you have to like the style. Nice aging potential too.
88-90

Their land is marine sediments, with quite a bit of salt, and also an abundance of fossil shells that release carbonates into the soil.

The Tempranillo Wines


Pietro Boconcini IXE 2008 IGT
Lot 11/11
Ixe (pronounced eexeh) is the Italian pronunciation of the letter X; this is Leonardo's lesser Tempranillo-based wine, made from the roughly 4.5 hectares of Tempranillo he planted between 1997 and 2005. It's about 4.5 ha in all. Here he allows the vines considerable liberty -- they're planted to 6,500 vines ha, and the production of the individual vines depends upon the number of buds. He green harvested through the 5th vintage, but once they reached equilibrium cut back, saying, "it's a very precocious varietal, and reducing the bunch load would lead to overly early ripening. The goal is a simple wine; production is a bit less than 2 k per vine, 130 quintals per hectare. It ages in small oak, all old, and about 30% American oak, which Leonardo uses because American oak oxygenates more, and this counters Tempranillo's tendency to go into reduction. Deep black cherry, close to poured ink. The bouquet is bright, with sour cherry fruit laced with chopped tomato acidity, and savory notes, also some underbrush and bramble, and some wood smoke too, with underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright rather balsamic fruit -- it's quite distinct from Sangiovese -- supported by warmth and spice, and by tannins that are warm and balsamic and flow into a clean savory finish,. Also some mint on palate and nose. It's interesting, quite pleasant, and also quite obviously not Sangiovese, though just as obviously not one of the popular French varietals; if someone were to hand it to me and say "where's it from?" I might have guessed Calabria. Very fresh -- one wouldn't guess it's 14.5% alcohol -- and will work well with foods, especially grilled meats.
2 stars

Pietro Boconcini Vigna Alle Nicchie IGT Toscana 2007
(Forgot to note the lot number)
This is from the historic vineyard, with the old vines that Leonardo started with, and a small parcel he planted on a ridge crest in 1998 -- a trial, which he is using for this wine. The grapes from the ridge crest are harvested early, and allowed to dry for 4 weeks prior to vinification. His aim is to make a Tempranillo with aging capacity, and to do this he needed ripe grapes. However, ripe grapes are low in acidity, so he harvests some earlier to have the acidity, and then works with the rest, allowing them to ripen. In the end it works it out. The wine is deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich cherry fruit laced with berry fruit jam, some menthol, slight underbrush, and some cumin seed. Interesting, and again clearly distinct from Sangiovese. On the palate it's full, and quite smooth, with elegant balsamic cherry plum fruit supported by savory accents and balsam-laced tannins with some cedar, and as the other elements fade lasting balsamic warmth. Interesting, and enjoyable, powerful and charged too, and because of its sweetness, which is in part alcohol -- 15.5 % -- it will work better with stews or succulent not too fatty roasts than grilled meats. It's reminiscent in some ways of an Amarone type wine, though the drying cycle is much faster. In terms of accompaniments, one might go with peposo, sweet-and-pungent hare (or boar), and other savory dishes with chocolate.
Particular, and though it won't work everywhere it will be perfect in the proper setting.
2 stars

Pietro Boconcini Caratello Vin Santo del Chianti 2001
This is quite traditional, with some Malvasia Nera -- the percentage varies with the vintage, up to 30%. Leonardo generally dries the grapes until February, though this year (2011) it was dry enough that he pressed them at the end of December. The wine ages at least 5 years in a mix of oak and chestnut casks. Leonardo has also begun making an Occhio di Pernice (Vinsanto from red grapes), but won't release it until 2014. This wine is tawny amber with greenish brown accents on the rim and some apricot reflections too. The bouquet is smoky, with considerable walnut skin and some nutmeats, and also quite a bit of sea salt and toasted almonds, and slight brown sugar. None of the oatmeal that sometimes emerges from Vinsanto. Slight dried fig, however. On the palate it's sweet, with the sweetness balanced by considerable savory notes, and by a tremendous wash of walnut supported by some savory accents, flowing into a walnut and toasted almond finish that lasts and lasts. Nuts in a glass, and quite pleasant, and as the nuts fade maple sugar sweetness emerges -- something I hadn't noted in a vinsanto before, but find quite nice.
88-90

Want to know more? Visit Pietro Beconcini's Site

Tenuta di Capezzana - Some Older Vintages, Tasted at Vinitaly

One of the nicest things about Vinitaly is that some wineries, especially older ones with historic traditions, bring some of their older vintages for visitors to explore. This time Capezzana, whose archives stretch back to the 30s, brought a fascinating set of wines from the more recent past.

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1974

70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo and 10% other traditional varietals, aged 24 months in large (25 hl) casks. Brick with orange rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leather and some Moroccan leather acidity supported by underbrush and some medicinal notes, with underlying eucalyptus and leaf tobacco. Graceful in a fully mature key, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's it's bright, with fairly rich sour prune fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and some leathery accents, while the tannins are quite smooth and have some leafy accents to them. It's graceful, with considerable bright acidity that has provided backbone and both allowed it to reach this age, and given it good potential for the future. A very enjoyable older vintage.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1983

70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo and 10% other traditional varietals, aged 24 months in large (25 hl) casks. Almandine with orangish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and dried flowers supported by clean berry fruit acidity and savory accents with Moroccan leather from old book bindings. Elegant though not as rich as the 74. On the palate it's quite pleasant in a full mature key, with bright tart berry fruit acidity more than fruit, supported by smooth tannins that are silky and savory, and flow into a long tart finish with some tannic underpinning. Though mature it is still quite fresh, and bright, and is a testament to the importance of acidity in red wines because without said acidity it would have settled.
90-91

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1996

80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, aged 12 months in large (23 hl) casks and 12 months in bottle. Deep black almandine with black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory berry fruit supported by balsamic notes and Moroccan leather with some spice. It has quite a bit to say and is quite harmonious. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that are velvety though they do have steely accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with considerable peppery acidity. Quite pleasant, and unlike the older wines, which I would only drink far from the table, will go well with a steak.
88-90

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2000
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Beginning with Stefano Chioccioli's arrival in 1998, Capezzana carried out green harvests in all their vineyards, thus increasing the quality of their grapes to the point that there was little point in making both Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva. Deep brick ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some berry fruit and spice supported by sea salt, some sour berry fruit acidity, and slight leather, with underlying dried flowers. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a long warm finish. By comparison with the older vintages is suffers some and this is because the end of the summer was excruciatingly hot in Tuscany, hot enough that it interfered with ripening.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2006

80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory notes and red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and considerable austerity -- it really isn't at all happy about being on display in the glass. On the palate it's ample and smooth with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long spicy tannic finish. It's quite elegant but simply NOT ready, and needs time. If you have the patience to give it, it will reward you, and the score reflects the present.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2007

80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Bright cherry ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is brighter and readier than that of the 06, and also fresher, which makes sense since it's a year younger; there are red berry fruit and underbrush mingled with vegetal accents and fairly bright acidity, with some underlying goudron. On the palate it's full and rich with powerful red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that do display a slight burr and flow into a long warm fairly bitter finish. It's quite approachable, and at present superior to the 2006 (though its older sibling may pull ahead with time). Quite pleasant, a wine you will set out and drink, and though one usually doesn't say this about wines of this caliber, it applies here.
90-91

Nobile di Montepulciano: The 2008 Vintage, Mostly

The folks at Montepulciano presented the 2008 vintage of Il Vino Nobile this year. It was pleasant, perhaps somewhat superior to the 2007, though as has been the case in the past few years, what is really important is the style of the winemaker, more than the vintage -- of the three major Tuscan red appellations Nobile di Montepulciano continues to display the greatest variability overall, with some wineries favoring extraction and considerable small new oak, and others being much more sober, with wines that are more austere and are based more on the interplay of tannin, fruit and acidity.

The appellation is also expanding, as are the winemakers; in the talk before pouring began we were told that there are currently 1400 hectares of Vino Nobile vineyards, while the number of estates that bottle has climbed to 75; 35 of these which are small estates, 10 are organic, and a number have taken the steps to become biodynamic.

Total Vino Nobile production is 65,000 hectoliters, which is well under the maximum volume the Disciplinare would allow (100,000 hectoliters), while this year's bottle sales totaled 8 million Vino Nobile, 2 million Rosso di Montepulciano (this year the Consorzio voted to allow the use of non-cork stoppers for Rosso, a development that I think is quite positive as it eliminates the problem of cork taint), and "a few thousand" bottles of vinsanto.

More winemakers are entering the fold, and the overall prospects for the appellation look good.

The wines, tasted February 2011 We began with Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008 To begin, an observation: There were many barrel samples, and while this is justified by the time period in which the presentation took place, it is limiting, because a barrel sample has yet to even think about the evolution it will undergo while in bottle. Because of this I consider barrel samples to be unfinished wines, works in progress if you will, and generally prefer not to score them.

Tenuta La Lodola Nuova Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and fairly vegetal, with cherry fruit supported by deft greenish accents. Nice richness for a barrel sample. On the palate it's pleasant, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are fairly intense and have a greenish burr, and flow into a long warm tart finish. It will be quite pleasant and drink very well with grilled meats or light roasts, and will also age well for 5-8 years. Fairly traditional in feel, with lively acidity and brash tannins.

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and a fair amount of spice. Quite opulent, and though not quite Valeria Marini in a glass (Google her images) headed in that direction. The palate reflects the nose, but it's not lax; there's rich plum fruit with prune and slight brown sugar sweetness supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary overlay, and by moderate prune-mineral acidity that is sufficient to provide direction, and it flows into a fairly long cherry prune finish. It's an opulent wine, and if you like this rich fruit driven style you will enjoy it.

Icario Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by clean mineral-laced spice and by some acidity; it's obviously still developing but on a pleasant track. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by savory tannins that have slight balsamic accents, and by berry fruit acidity that has a fair amount of warmth, and flows into a clean fairly tart finish. Graceful, in a rather essential fairly direct key; it's a wine that will work very well with hearty pasta dishes, simple grilled or roasted meats, and will also work nicely with fried meats -- rabbit or chicken or lamb chops -- in an elegant setting.
2 stars

Tenuta di Poggio Uliveto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is delicate, with cherry plum fruit supported by pleasant spice and by some berry grape jam accents. Accents that are reflected on the palate; it's smooth and though not really sweet does have rich ripe prune fruit with the sweetness of ripe prunes, and is supported by tannins that are rather dusky, with graphite shaving bitterness and a slight blockiness that is youth, and flow into a fairly long prune finish that gradually fades into tannins that are present but neither dry nor splintery. It's still getting its legs about it, in a fairly rich, rather opulent ripe fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer livelier, more aggressive red fruit and acidity it won't work as well for you. Because of its richness it will -- if you like the style -- work quite well with drier roasts, including white meats, and because of the softness might be a bet with mildly spiced oriental meats.
2 stars

Godiolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly pungent alcohol and a fair amount of cedar, but not much else. On the palate it's ample in a ripe key with greenish bell pepper-laced berry plum fruit supported by tannins that are splintery now, and cedar laced, and flow into a cedar-laced finish. It needs time to come together, and will be fairly international in style when it is ready.

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and white at the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a very ripe key, with warm cedar balanced by spice and plum berry fruit; it has a rather settled feel to it. On the palate it's fairly full, with rather generic berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a strong cedar overlay whose warmth makes it seem somewhat balsamic. To be honest, in sipping it I felt rather like a peeping Tom; it's going in several directions at once, and I would rather give it a little longer, until it has an inkling of where it wants to go, before scoring it. It simply needs time

Lunadoro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a rush of bell peppers and graphite shavings supported by some spice, but not much in the way of red fruit. On the palate it's ripe, with plum cherry fruit that has some bell pepper overtones and is fairly sweet; the sweetness confers roundness and a certain voluptuousness to it, and though it's not sweet enough to be cloying the sweetness helps define the wine, while there is some mineral acidity to give definition, and the tannins are smooth and fairly light, though they do have some graphite shaving bitterness to them that carries into the finish. It's ample and soft, and if you like the style, which is decidedly unaggressive, it will work well with drier roasts such as pork loin or turkey breast. If you prefer brighter more acidic wines it won't work for you.
1 star

Terra Antica Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is penetrating, with cedary accents and some quite ripe prune plum fruit, but it's still coming together and lacks definition. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by cedar laced tannins whose cedary accents, interacting with the fruit, bring sweet oatmeal to mind, something I associate more with other wines than Nobile, while there is some mineral acidity, and the tannins are decidedly cedar laced. It's heavily oaked, and hasn't yet digested the oak; while it may the oak will always color the wine, and you should only consider it if you prefer wines that have a very ripe fruit cast. If you prefer sourer fruit, it won't work for you.
1 star

Fassati Passiteo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy plum fruit supported by fairly rich spice and some underlying cedar; it's harmonious in an opulent ripe key, and rich for a barrel sample. On the palate it's rich, with powerful jammy prune fruit that gains roundness and richness from sweetness, while the tannins are ample, smooth, and have a clean oaky cast to them, leading into a rich plum finish. It's a (very) curvy starlet in a glass, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer red fruit and lively acidity it simply won't work for you.

Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with leafy underbrush and some balsamic accents and some sea salt; though it began dusky, it became brighter as it opened and red berry fruit emerged. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's fairly direct in a middle of the road key, and pleasant though it will profit from another year of bottle age; it will work well with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats and light stews, and will age nicely 3-5 years. It grew on me.
2 stars

Poggio Golo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some prune plum fruit. On the palate it's further along, with brighter than expected plum cherry fruit supported by fairly rich mineral acidity and by ample tannins that have some hazelnut accents now, and flow into a warm finish with tannins and some hot milk. It's all over the map at present, but should come together in a modern middle of the road key.

La Braccesca Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fairly bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some brambly notes, while there is also a jammy sweetness that suggests ripe roundness. On the palate it's ample, with rich prune fruit supported by mineral acidity that does a good job of providing direction, and by tannins that are ample, soft, and smooth, and flow into a fairly long plum finish with some cherry notes, which gains definition from a fairly bright savory underpinning. It's pleasant in a decidedly ripe key, and if you like ample fruit driven wines you will enjoy it. If you instead prefer wines that are tighter and more defined, it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope -- poured ink -- with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample and quite ripe, with powerful prune fruit supported by cocoa and cedar shavings; it's very ripe and heavily oaked at present. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich plum fruit that has slight caramel accents, which are due to wood, and is supported by a combination of mineral acidity that provides nice direction, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart mineral plum acidity finish. It's a big wine, but does have enough acidity to provide good direction, and as such brings to mind a fat person who dances well -- unlike me.

Casa Vinicola Triacca Santavenere Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Almost impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly vegetal, with greenish berry fruit supported by bell pepper and graphite shavings that confer a degree of bitterness, and by hints of scalded milk and sea salt, while there is also some prune-plum acidity. On the palate it's not as opulent as I expected; there's fairly graceful cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are slightly mineral, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit plum finish. It's quite promising in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and will also stand up to spicier fare such as bbq, I think. I would give it a year to pull together, and expect it to age well for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Tenuta il Faggeto Pietra del Diavolo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some prune fruit and some cedar, but it's still under wraps for the most part. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that are cedar laced, and by moderate acidity, which flow into a tannic finish with underlying bitterness. I'd have liked a bit more acidity than I found, because it's not directionless, but not as purposeful as I might have wanted either.

Fanetti Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ink with black cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some cedar and some ripe fruit, but not much of either. It is under wraps. On the palate it's ample, with prune fruit supported by tannins that are broad and though they start out smooth become quite blocky and cover all in the finish. It's a classic barrel sample, with all the limitations of its kind, and not ready to be judged.

Poliziano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and white rim; it's a little paler than some. The bouquet is fresh and young, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by jammy accents and some greenish brambles with underlying acidity. On the palate it's fresh, with bright sour cherry fruit that has slight jammy sweetness to it, and is supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and smooth, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish. It's pleasant, in a cheeky fruit driven key, and will work quite well with simple pasta dishes, grilled meats, or light stews -- Chicken Pot Pie comes to mind -- and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. A fellow taster suggests bbq and he's right. In any case, expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Vecchia Cantina Poggio Stella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, and jammy, with cherry blackberry jam supported by some sweet vegetal accents and by spice; it's riep but not overripe, and decidedly jammy, what a friend of French extraction calls confetture. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry black berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are drier than I expected, flowing into a dry tannic finish. The fruit starts out well but draws up short, and while it will lengthen as the tannins smooth, I had expected more. It will in any case drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Il Cavalierino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is out of sorts, with a fair amount of wood supported by shellac and sweetness, while there is also cherry plum fruit. It's like an octopus, stretching in every direction. On the palate it's disjointed, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderate oddly mineral acidity that has hints of balsam. It's way too young to say anything constructive about, because the pieces are still orbiting each other warily.

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant in a ripe key, with plum fruit supported by jammy fruit accents and some acidity, while there is also some spice and an underpinning of graphite shavings. On the palate it's ripe, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by lively sour plum acidity and by tannins that are still too young, with an oaky component that hasn't yet melded with the grape component. It's promising, but very much a barrel sample, and won't be ready to be drunk for another year at least. Something to wait for in a ripe but not overripe key, and with nice acidity that provides direction.

Montemercurio Messaggero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though there is a fair amount of bitter cocoa that drifts up -- not much else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense prune plum fruit supported by tannins that are rather blocky, and by mineral acidity that is enough to keep it from settling, though the tannins interrupt it as it tries to direct, and flow into a very tannic finish. The tannins will smooth with time, and there is some mineral -- not fruit -- acidity but I don't think I can say much more now.

Croce di Febo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy prune fruit supported by bell pepper and vegetal accents, and by some wood smoke spice as well. Rich in a ripe key, and nice for a barrel sample. On the palate it's rich, with cherry prune fruit that gains direction from warm sour cherry acidity that has slight greenish accents, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's big, and quite ripe, but does have a pleasant direction to it, and if you like the style will work well with hearty stews, including spicier fare such as goulash, or with red meats that aren't really rare. A steak cooked medium, for example.

Tenuta di Gracciano Della Seta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some alcohol and hints of hazelnut shells mingled with, as it opens, some spice and acidity, and prune fruit underlying it all. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense prune plum fruit that lacks acidity and as a result direction, while the tannins are ample and smooth. I'd have liked more acidity, because it wavers, and while the tannins will smooth in with time the acidity won't emerge if it's not there now.
1 star

La Ciarliana Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with cherry prune fruit supported by some greenish accents, and by some spice. It suggests the wine is decidedly rich, and rather opulent in key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune fruit supported by some greenish acidity and by tannins that are seriously blocky, coating the tongue and flowing into a warm prune finish. It's promising in an opulent, very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer scrappier wines with more acidity it won't work as well for you. In short, not for everyone.

Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by jammy accents and some bell peppers, and by spice as well. Quick to write, but harmonious at the outset, though stronger greenish notes emerge with more swishing. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and slightly green; it's pleasant but a bit understated, lacking in oomph on the part of the fruit, which does take the center palate but doesn't manage to fill it completely. Because of this I wouldn't drink it by the glass, though I would consider drinking it with simple grilled meats or light stews that will profit from the tannins; it does in any case need a year to come together, and by March 2012 will be much better than it is now.
1 star

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though some sealing wax emerges with energetic sniffing. Barrel samples can be out of sorts and this is. On the palate it's round and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are rather blocky and do provide warmth, though they don't go much further than that. It's like a lost toddler, wandering about looking for a familiar face.

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet open with a rush of chocolate, milk chocolate, with hints of Kailua liqueur. Wood that is at present overshadowing the fruit, and this can happen in a barrel sample. On the palate it's moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by spice from wood and slight vegetal notes, and also fairly bright berry fruit acidity that has some spur prune accents, and flows into a fairly bright tannic finish. The palate is promising, and if it casts off the wood in the nose it will be interesting in a middle of the road key.

Nottola Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is savory, with a fair amount of wood, and underlying red berry fruit. On the palate it's direct, with warm berry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary overlay and some sea salt, and by moderate savory acidity. It's a bit flatter than some, and though the tannins will smooth the acidity we have is the acidity we work with.

Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still up in the air, with plum and forest berry fruit on the one hand, and slightly balsamic acidity and some scalded milk on the other, and some spice too. On the palate it's again disjointed, with sour cherry plum fruit supported by unusual candied sweet notes that bring cola gummy bears to mind, and peppery spice that flows into a peppery finish with candied overtones. It's in mid stride and needs to take at least a few more steps before it will be judgeable.

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Almost impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is still coming together, with cedar laced with musty dried orange peel and some spice, but not as much fruit as it might have; it's also not as clean as I would have liked. On the palate it's dusky, with fairly rich cherry ruby fruit supported by some acidity, more mineral than fruit but it is there, and by tannins that have a dusky greenish burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's still very young, and I would give it a year for the palate to come together and the nose to develop. I liked the palate better than the nose.
1 star

Gattavecchi Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with prune and plum fruit supported by some cedar and jammy accents. On the palate it's full, with rich smooth plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, enough to provide some direction, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and have a cedary overlay to them. It's ample, and will smooth nicely, and if you like big soft ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it.

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rather languid sweet plum fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some cedar. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with plum fruit supported by sour plum acidity that manages to make an appearance before it's cut off by angry bitter tannins that carry into a bitter tannic finish. It's quite far behind, and the tannins will need at least a year to smooth. An angry young man.

Tenimentio Angelini Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is murky, with wet earth and some dried orange peel supported by balsamic warmth and hints of stable straw; it gives an impression of being uncertain about where it's going. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are warm and fairly balsamic, and do have an angry burr, while the acidity is warm and a bit greenish, and there are also savory notes. It's a bit tired, though this may be the impression it gives in youth; it needs at least a year to come togethe3r and be presentable, and two wouldn't hurt.


Nobile di Montepulciano 2008 Selezione
These are vineyard selections. Some are quite good, while others, alas, give the impression of trying too hard to be Wines with a capital W.

Tenuta Valdipiatta Vigna L'Alfiero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections, it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of greenish cedar that covers most everything. The palate is just as eye-opaning, with rip berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and tannins that are cedar laced with hints of sandalwood and spice. A great lot of oak, and though the fruit may emerge to lead in the future I'm not sure that it will.

Gattavecchi Parceto Poggio alla Sala Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Poured pyrope ink with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with prune fruit supported by chalk and some spice; it's still coming together. On the palate it's ample, with prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a blocky burr and flow into a dry tannic finish with underlying bitterness. It's badly disjointed and needs at least a year to start thinking about what it wants to be, though I would guess heavily oaked in a ripe international key. It's a bit soon to say much else.

Vecchia Cantina Cantina del Redi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Deep pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is quite ripe, and spicy, with prune fruit supported by peppery nutmeg spice and some jammy accents; as it opens warm hints of leather and leaf tobacco also emerge. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with rich smooth plum fruit that gains definition from brighter than expected berry fruit acidity, a mix of currants and raspberry, and by tannins that are smooth with bitter graphite underpinning, and flow into a fairly long warm tannic finish that again has dusky graphite bitterness to it. It's big, and ripe, but does have acidity to give direction; this said, it seems to be trying to keep a foot on either side of the ripeness/overripeness fence, and I'm not sure how well it's succeeding. It's a wine that will work more with rich slow-cooked braised meats (including spicier things such as goulash or a peposo than by the glass.
2 stars

Fassati Gersemi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2008

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ink with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is still out to sea, with a rush of bitter grilled pepper with some underlying berry fruit jam and some graphite shavings. To be quite honest, if someone were to put a glass under my nose and say, "Guess," I would say, "Cabernet. Perhaps not pure, but it's there." On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm plum laced finish. It's actually fairly ready on the palate, in a very ripe fruit driven key, but also has enough acidity to keep things from drifting, and that's a good thing. If you like the style you will enjoy it.

Nobile di Montepulciano 2007

Villa Sant'Anna Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and not clean; there's a mustiness mingled with dried orange peel that I associate with wood that's past its prime. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit that gains direction from fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a sour cherry finish with some savory underpinning. A pity about the nose, and I'd have liked tighter definition to the palate too.
74

Il Cavalierino Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by hardwood ash and some peppery spice with a fair amount of alcohol and some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that's supported by moderately intense mineral acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with slight balsamic bitterness. I'd have liked a little more brightness to the acidity, which is more mineral than fruit driven. It's fairly traditional, in feel, and will work well with grilled or roasted meats.
2 stars

Montemercurio Messaggero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Poured pyrope ink with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and still coming together; it opens with a rush of greenish spice and something that brings to mind cleaning supplies -- something chemical. Not much fruit. On the palate it's quite ripe, with prune cherry fruit supported by dusky acidity and by tannins that have graphite bitterness to them, and flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish with underlying peppery spice. It needs time, but I found myself wishing for more depth and definition.
1 star

Casale Daviddi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though swishing brings up some spice and peppery accents. Not much fruit. The palate is brighter than I expected, with fairly lively cherry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a clean tannic finish with fairly bright sour cherry fruit. I would give the nose a year to catch up with the body, and then drink it with a steak or a roast; in terms of style it's middle of the road towards the traditional side of the spectrum.
1 star

Poggio Golo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with sea salt and spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a clean tannic finish. It's a bit lacking in verve, and I'd have liked greater richness and depth to the nose, which doesn't have as much fruit as I would have wanted.
1 star

La Ciarlana Vigna Scianello Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with almandine brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal-laced plum cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents. On the palate it's full and quite ripe, with prune fruit supported by tannins that have a smooth cedary overlay and flow into a fairly long finish with lasting bitterness. It's going to be rather opulent, in a rich fruit driven very ripe key.

Casa Vinicola Triacca Poderuccio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable bitter graphite shavings and some spice supported by slightly chalky accents; there are hints of berry fruit, but not much more than that. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with cherry and plum fruit supported by fairly lively mineral sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright sour fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's bit, and soft, but not as overripe as I had feared from the nose, and will work well with slowly cooked flavorful meats, or even a steak, if it's not absolutely rare. Something to think about if you like the style.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini Simposio Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather balsamic, with warm balsamic acidity laced with sea salt and stable straw, and fairly bright acidity as well. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and by tannins that are glancing now, but that will smooth with time, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's very young in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or steaks in the short term, and also age well for 5-8 years or more. If you like fruit driven ripe wines it won't work for you, but if you like a rather rustic tart style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2007

Dei Riserva Bossona Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol and some cedar supporting some berry fruit, though what really comes out now is the alcohol. On the other hand, it's a barrel sample. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sweet cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are greenish and lay a veneer over the tongue. It's quite behind, and needs time before it will be ready for people to say much about it.

Carpineto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and some cedar. Fairly rich in a ripe rather opulent key. On the palate it's rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr of the sort one expects from a barrel sample. It's promising, in an opulent and ripe but not overripe key; if you like the style you will enjoy it.

Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up prune fruit supported by some gum Arabic (rubber cement, even) and spice. It gives an impression of considerable opulent ripeness. On the palate it's quite ripe, with powerful sweet plum fruit supported by peppery spice and moderate acidity, while the tannins have a youthful peppery burr to them, and flow into a rather quick -- too quick -- peppery finish. It needs another year to come together, but will be quite ripe in a rather opulent key when it is ready. If the finish lengthens it will be nice in the style.
1 star

Croce di Febo Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with petroleum and wood smoke mingled with ripe prune fruit and fairly intense greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that are rather blocky, and flow into a fairly bright tannic finish. I'd have liked more richness and ripeness to the fruit, which is a little thinner than I hoped for.
1 star

Avignonesi Riserva Grandi Annate Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Lively almandine with brilliant reflections and almandine rim; it's a bit paler than some -- no ink. The bouquet is fairly rich though quite young, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice. Promising but needs time. On the palate it's rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long slightly greenish finish with lasting sour cherry warmth. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and though it will profit from another year at least in bottle, one could drink it now with a steak or hearty roast, along the lines of leg of lamb. Expect it to age well for up to 10 years.
86-8

Icario Riserva Vitaroccia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with quite ripe prune cherry fruit supported by some mineral acidity, though not so much as I would have liked, and by tannins that are quite bitter, with a cedar overlay, and flow into a tongue-bending tannic finish. It needs at least a year for the tannins to sort themselves out -- 2 would be better -- but I wouldn't keep it for much longer, because there isn't much acidity, and the fruit is already quite soft.

Canneto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine -- almost poured ink -- with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit more rustic than I expected from the color; there's balsamic acidity mingled with stable straw and greenish brambly accents but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with ample sour fruit that's fairly generic -- what really comes through is the sourness -- supported by minerality and warmth, while the tannins are decidedly greenish and flow into a long rather green warm tannic finish. It's a bit extreme, and you'll lonely like it if you like this powerful rather rustic style. If you prefer riper wines, or wines with softer riper tannins, it won't work for you. If you do like it, it will work well with succulent red meats, grilled, roasted, or stewed.
1 star

Fattoria del Cerro Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and some vegetal notes as well; there's also some sour berry fruit jam. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and fairly rich acidity that flow into a clean rather sour finish. It's a bit blocky, and though it will drink quite well with hearty stews or roasts, I found myself wishing for better definition to the fruit, which is a little lax, leaving more space to the peppery tannins than it might have.
1 star

Bindella Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit of a surprise, with quite ripe cherry plum fruit supported by jammy accents and some vegetal notes, and fairly bright vegetal acidity. It gives an impression of lush opulence. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are angry in their youth and lay a peppery burr over the tongue, flowing into a fairly long peppery finish. It needs another year to come together, a which point it will be fairly opulent in a modern fruit driven key, but not soft, because the pepperiness of the tannins will fold in some but never disappear completely.
1 star

Nottola Riserva Il Fattore Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory plum fruit supported by jammy notes and spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite ripe, with prune fruit supported by fairly lively cherry-citric acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth. Pleasant in an ample ripe key, and work well with flavorful stews, including spicier stews such as goulash. Something to think about of you like the style. If you instead prefer wines that have tighter, brighter fruit it won't work as well for you.

Contucci Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and also fairly pungent, with greenish vegetal accents and some spice, but not much in the way of fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that are big and blocky, and lay a veneer over the tongue and flow into a long tannic finish. It needs at least a year and perhaps two for the tannins to fold in. Problem is, there isn't that much acidity, and because of this I wouldn't age it for much longer than that. It wants to be bigger than it probably should be.
1 star

La Braccesca Riserva Santa Pia Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Impenetrable pyrope ink with almandine cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with quite a bit of cedar and some spice, and as it opens some prune fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly intense plum cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral prune acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a clean smooth slightly bitter prune finish. It's fairly rich, and if you like ample smooth ripe fruit driven wines you will enjoy it; it will work well with rich stews and hearty, not too rare red meats. If you prefer more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you.
http://www.antinori.it
2 stars

Talosa Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2007

Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some warmth. On the palate it's rich, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long plum finish that gains direction from mineral acidity and some savory accents. Pleasant in a rich, ripe fruit driven key, and if you like the style it will work well with hearty slow-cooked stews, including dishes such as goulash, but you do have to like fairly opulent wines. If you prefer tighter, more acidic wines it won't work as well for you.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2006

Boscarelli Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG Riserva 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with same balsamic accents mingled with slight stable straw and dusky notes that bring dappled shad to mind, and also some greenish spice, with some alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by moderately intense dusky berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight burr, and flow into a clean rather warm tannic finish with our cherry and mineral accents that provide direction. It's pleasant, though a little laxer than I might have liked, or at least this is the impression it gives, and it's due at least in part to the tannins, which are still splintery and therefore don't present a unified front. They will smooth with time, while the tannic aggressiveness will make it a good bet with succulent grilled or roasted meats, and also with hearty stews. If you like the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it, and I would expect it to age well for a decade at least.
2 stars