The 2010 Bardolino Chiaretto

During the summer months one of the nicest simple wines to break out is Bardolino Chiaretto, an eminently drinkable rosè made from the same varietals -- Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara -- also used to make Bardolino (and Valpolicella), both of which are red.

The 2010 vintage was relatively cool and wet, which makes for lively acidities, and the 2010 Bardolino Chiaretto, lightly chilled, will be quite nice at cookouts or picnics, and also be a pleasant vino a tutto pasto, (to be drunk throughout the meal) that will work quite well with lighter summer dishes, including pasta salads, stuffed vegetables, and meat dishes served cool.

The wines, tasted on March 5 2011, in the order listed in the Banco D'Assaggio Catalog:

Aldo Adami

Aldo Adami Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale onionskin with brilliant brassy onionskin reflections. the bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit that has slight citric accents and some underlying greenish acidity. On the palate it's fairly bright, in a rather languid key, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by slight greenish notes and brambly acidity with a slight tannic burr that flows into a fairly long bitter finish with some underlying sour accents.
1 star

Fulvio Benazzoli

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright floral accents and some minerality that are supported by cut flower pungency, which is also a factor of youth. On the palate it's moderately intense, with sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by fairly bright raspberry acidity and by slight brambly tannins that flow into a fairly long savory finish with tart berry fruit underpinning. It's pleasant in a fairly direct key, and will be versatile at table.
1 star

Bergamini

Bergamini Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Lively salmon with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal notes and some sour berry fruit acidity mingled with brambles and some menthol. On the palate it's bright, with pleasant sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and slight tannins that have a greenish brambly burr, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with lasting minerality and a slight greenish tannic burr. Pleasant, and will be quite versatile, working with fish or meats, and will be a nice option as a cookout wine too. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Bolla

Bolla Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather mineral, with some greenish accents and heather supported by intense mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich mineral laced sour cherry fruit supported by greenish minerality and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a clean mineral finish. It's pleasant, in a rather direct key -- it's not long on complexity -- and will drink very well with foods. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Vinicio Bronzo

Vinicio Bronzo Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and bitterness with some underlying berry fruit; it's very young. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by bright raspberry acidity and slight tannins that have a faint burr and flow into clean sour cherry finish. It's graceful on the palate, with bright lively acidity that will make it perfect lightly chilled with fried meats or fish, and -- when the nose catches up, in summer 2011 -- will be worth seeking out if you like bright, lively light wines.
2 stars

Cà Bottura

Cà Bottura Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with brambly sour berry fruit supported by heather of a cut field, and bright mineral acidity; it gives an impression of grace. On the palate it's a little more settled than I expected from the nose, with moderately intense sour raspberry and strawberry fruit supported by brambly slight greenish tannins and by acidity that's not quite as bright as I had hoped, and makes for a wine that isn't quite as deft as I had hoped it would be.
1 star

Cà Dei Colli

Cà Dei Colli Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some heather; it's fairly scrappy. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by considerable greenish acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a fairly bright greenish finish. It's up front and quite direct, and will work well as a cookout wine or with simple summer dishes ranging from panzanella through quickly grilled white meats or fish. Versatile, and will go quickly.
1 star

Cantina di Custoza

Cantina di Custoza Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with sour cherry and wild strawberry fruit supported by heather and floral accents, and by pleasant vegetal acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by slight tannins that have a greenish burr, and flow into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with bitter undertones. It's deft, and though I might have liked a touch more acidity holds together well, and will drink well with summery pasta dishes or risotti, and also simple grilled fish or white meats, while the combination of tannin and acidity will make it work well with fried meats and fish or vegetables. In other words, it's quite versatile.
1 star

Cantina di Custoza Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some bitter savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit acidity more than fruit supported by very slight tannins; it revolves primarily around the acidity, and flows into bright, tart finish with a slight greenish butt. It's quite bright, and will drink well with grilled fish or white meats at a cookout, and will also be nice with creamy first course pasta dishes or risotti. If you prefer softer wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like bright fairly aggressive wines you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Giuseppe Campagnola

Giuseppe Campagnola Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is brambly, with some greenish vegetal accents, and some peppery spice. On the palate it's softer and more languid than I expected, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and savory slight tannins that flow into a finish that quickly contracts to savory notes with a burr that continues at length.
1 star

Campostrini

Campostini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bitter, with brambly accents and some heather, but not much in the way of acidity. On the palate it's ample, revolving more around bitterness than fruit, and supported by some mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish with some tart accents. I'd have liked more depth to the fruit, which is somewhat lacking.
1 star

Canella

Canella Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant rosy reflections. The bouquet is decidedly savory, with heather and sea salt mingled with slight brambles; it gives an impression of scrappiness, and there is also some hardwood ash that adds pleasant depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by bright mineral berry fruit acidity and by slight tannins that have a pleasant greenish burr and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Scrappy, and will work quite well with fried fish or meats, and also with grilled white meats or fish, and the fixings for a cookout or barbecue. Expect it to go quickly, and it's something to consider if you like bright fairly aggressive wines.
2 stars

Cantina Caorsa

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale pink with some hints of orange, and brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit but to a greater degree greenish vegetal noses and savory accents, while there is also some cut flower pungency that is a factor of youth, destined to fade with time. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are slight and have a brambly overlay; it's pleasant but not quite as deft as some. This said, it will drink nicely with fried fish or meats, and also with simple pasta dishes or risotti, and has the wherewithal to work well with grilled fish or white meats. In short, it's versatile, in a slightly more muscular key, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Chiaretto Rubens 2010
Pale salmon with bright salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is still coming together, with some brambly accents and slight berry fruit, supported by cut flowers and some sea salt, and as it opens vegetal laced heather. On the palate it's a bit more languid than I expected -- perhaps because of a fairly high glycerin content -- with considerable sour berry fruit acidity and some savory notes, and underlying brambles that carry into the finish. It's quite zesty, and scrappy, like a tomboy with skinned knees & elbows, and will work quite well at a cookout with fish or white meats, and also with fried fish or meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Chiaretto Classico Cà Vegar 2010
Salmon with brilliant orange salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by brambly accents and some sea salt, while there is also some cut flower pungency that is a factor of youth and will fade with time. On the palate it's savory, with considerable minerality and mineral more than fruit driven acidity that is supported by brambly accents and a greenish burr that flow into a rather bitter savory finish with some acidic underpinning, though what really comes through is the savory bitterness. It's a little behind with respect to the straight Bardolino and I found it less bright, with a bit less acidity. While the structure is a bit more powerful. They are clearly cut from the same cloth, but offer slightly different interpretations. I liked the brightness of the Normale, and found this a little heavy.
1 star

Casaretti

Casaretti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale rose with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and disjointed, with intense greenish accents mingled with cut flowers and some savory minerality; there's not much fruit yet, and this is youth. On the palate it's bright and fairly languid, with sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by brambly notes that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long greenish finish with bright sour berry fruit underpinning. Pleasant, and once the nose has caught up with the palate (summer 2011) will drink quite well at a cookout built around white meats or fish, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried fish or meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Natale Castellani

Natale Castellani Bardolino Chiaretto Cà Dei Rotti 2010
Pale rose pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim, while there is very slight petillance, which is a factor of youth. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry jam richness, some greenish vegetal accents, and pleasant floral notes. Nice depth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid sour cherry fruit supported by rather languid mineral laced berry fruit acidity, and by slight brambly bitterness that flows into a fairly long slightly greenish finish with deft acidic underpinning. Pleasant, in a fairly rich languid key, and will drink well with fried meats or fish, and also with quickly cooked white meats or fish. Nice elegance and finesse, and will work very well with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cavalchina

Cavalchina Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Onionskin with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spicy vegetal notes mingled with sea salt and some bramble, and slight balsamic overtones that are unusual in a Chiaretto but work well, and some cut flowers as well. On the palate it's brighter than I expected from the nose, with rather languid wild strawberry and raspberry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by slight brambly accents that flow into a clean sour wild berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and when the nose catches up with the palate (summer 2011) it will be quite nice. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Gerardo Cesari

Gerardo Cesari Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, and rather languid, with wild strawberries and some sour cherry fruit supported by slight greenish vegetal accents and some heather; the overall impression is fairly languid. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with lively fairly sweet strawberry fruit supported by warmth and fairly bright strawberry acidity that flows into a clean slightly brambly finish. It's pleasant in a direct, up front key and while not long on complexity will drink well with a wide range of foods. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star

Renato Corradini

Renato Corradini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Delicate rose pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some mineral accents and slight cut flowers. On the palate it's ample and fairly languid, with moderately rich wild strawberry fruit supported by wild berry fruit acidity and brambly greenish accents and slight tannins that flow into a fresh fairly bright wild strawberry finish with pleasing acidity. It's fairly direct, and -- by summer 2011, when the nose has caught up with the body -- will work quite well with foods, ranging from fried meats or fish through quickly cooked white meats (or fish), and it will also be nice as an aperitif.
1 star

Corte Fornello

Corte Fornello Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale onionskin with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is still out of sorts, with rather pungent bitter accents and cut flowers that are indicative of youth and will I hope fade as the nose develops. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly bright sour cherry and wild strawberry fruit supported by mineral acidity and brambly bitterness with a slight greenish burr that flows into a fairly bright finish. It's not as tight as some, and I found myself wishing for brighter acidity and more cohesion.
1 star

Corte Gardoni

Corte Gardoni Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is pungent and still very much out of whack, with pungent cut flowers that overshadow most everything; this is youth and bottle shock. On the palate it's fairly bright, with wild strawberry and sour cherry fruit that are supported by brambles, sour berry fruit acidity, savory accents, and more of the cut flowers present on the nose. It needs time, and I hope it will succeed in casting off this pungent bitterness; at present it's too young to score, and in a decidedly negative phase.

Corte Gioliare

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Classico 2010
Salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with wild strawberries and some greenish accents mingled with raspberry acidity and the heather of a cut field, and as it opens rather heady yellow peaches. On the palate it's languid, with ample loquat fruit supported by deft loquat acidity and by slight tannins that have a light greenish burr, and flow into a clean fairly long loquat finish with a savory brambly underpinning. It's pleasant in a more languid, softer key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer more bracing tightness it won't work quite as well for you, though you will find things to ponder in any case.
2 stars

Costadoro

Costadoro Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon pink with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with roses and strawberry fruit supported by some loquat and some underlying jammy sweetness. On the palate it's rather languid, with ample fairly soft loquat-strawberry fruit supported by some greenish accents and bitterness, and by moderately intense slightly sour berry fruit loquat acidity that carries into a brambly finish whose sourness is tempered by slight sweetness, that confers richness. It brings to mind a 20s flapper reclining on an ottoman and crooking her finger, and it will go quickly -- either with foods, or with friends on a summer evening as the heat fades and the stars come out. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Liviana Falconi

Liviana Falconi Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale rosy pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with strawberry and cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and sweet notes mingled with some vegetal notes and spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense strawberry and cherry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by slight brambly accents. A little more acidity would have given it better definition, I think.
1 star

F.lli Marchesini

F.lli Marchesini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale rosy pink with brilliant pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some mineral accents and hints of scalded milk. It's very young and still coming together. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with jammy strawberry fruit that has some plum accents and flows into a fairly sweet finish. It brings to mind a blush wine, with more sweetness and less acidity than is the norm, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I found it a bit too soft, and also too sweet.
1 star

F.lli Zeni

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Chiaretto Vigne Alte 2010
Pale brassy pink with lively pink rose reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather savory, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with scalded milk and some berry fruit, though it's not that intense at present. On the palate it's fairly rich, and a little sweeter than I expected, with moderately intense jammy berry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and by slight tannins that have a greenish burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish. It's fairly soft, with more sweetness and less acidity than the norm (though it doesn't take this to extremes), and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
1 star

Frezza

Frezza Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents and pungent cut flowers mingled with sour berry fruit and some sweetness. On the palate it's bright, with rather languid loquat and strawberry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and brambly bitterness that flow into a clean brambly finish that gains nice definition from mineral acidity and sour berry fruit. It's pleasant in a fruit driven scrappy key, and will work very well with foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Rose pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with berry fruit mingled with sweaty accents that bring Sauvignon to mind, and some greenish brambly accents as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively wild strawberry fruit supported by loquat acidity and some brambles that flow into a fairly long tart loquat finish. It's bright, and up front, and rather aggressive, with considerable acidity that will make it a good bet with fried meats or fish, and also a nice wine for a cookout. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Slightly salmonate pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wild strawberries laced with loquats and fairly bright berry fruit acidity, and also some jammy accents. On the palate it's bright, with peppery bitterness and moderately intense red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and an aggressive pepperiness that carries into a fairly tart finish. It's a bit disjointed, and the pepperiness, which is a factor of youth, is a bit unusual. Because of it, it will work well with hearty fish or vegetable-based risotti and pasta dishes, and also fried meats or fish, or similar rich dishes.
1 star

Girasole

Girasole Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by strawberries, floral accents, and some greenish bitterness, with underlying sweetness as well. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with wild strawberry and loquat fruit supported by bitter greenish acidity and peppery spice, while there are also slightly greenish bitter brambles, and it flows into a rather bitter brambly finish. It's quite direct, and will work well with flavorful fish or vegetable-based risotti and pasta dishes, and also with fried meats or fish, and grilled fish or white meats.
1 star

Gruppo Italiano Vini

Santi L'Infinito Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale slightly orangish pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly sour red berry fruit supported by loquats and some cut flower pungency, while there is also brambly bitterness. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with moderately intense strawberry cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and slight bitterness that flows into a finish that is fairly soft, though there are greenish brambles underpinning it It's fairly direct, and while not long on complexity will do a nice job of supporting what it's served with.
1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010

Brilliant pink with lively pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with slight scalded milk mingled with greenish heather and some wild strawberries, though they follow rather than lead. On the palate it's maple and smooth, with fairly rich wild strawberry fruit supported by moderately intense berry fruit acidity and by slight brambly tannins that gain in intensity, as does the acidity, as it flows into the finish. It's direct, and will drink well with foods, supporting rather than demanding center stage.
1 star

Il Pignetto

Il Pignetto Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale slightly orange pink with bright salmon pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy strawberry and loquat fruit supported by greenish heather and candied cherries, and also by some spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively peppery wild strawberry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by slight tannins that have a brambly burr and flow into a clean brambly finish with underlying bitterness. It will work well with foods, though, thanks to the pepperyness, you may find it a touch too aggressive to drink by itself.
1 star

La Cà

La Cà Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon pink with brilliant salmon pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish jammy berry fruit supported by spicy accents and some cut flowers. It's a bit disjointed. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry and strawberry fruit supported by considerable greenish berry fruit acidity and slight brambly tannins that flow into a fairly bright sour cherry finish that's rather long. A pleasant food wine that will drink nicely with fried fish or meats, and will also be a good bet at a cookout. If you like a slightly more aggressive style -- it is scrappy -- you will enjoy it.
2 stars

La Rocca

La Rocca Bardolino Chiaretto Classico La Rocca 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is disjointed, and rather earthy with hints of bleach as well. Unusual, and needs time to get its bearings., On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are slight, and greenish, flowing into a fairly quick savory finish. The palate doesn't quite follow the nose, but I'd have liked more cleanliness and definition overall.
1 star

Le Fraghe

Le Fraghe Bardolino Chiaretto Ròdon 2010
Pale salmon. The bouquet is fairly bright, with floral accents and loquats mingled with some greenish brambly notes and deft berry fruit acidity. Cheeky and welcoming. On the palate it's bright, with lively wild strawberry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by slightly brambly tannins that flow into a clean bright our berry fruit finish. Graceful in a cheeky smiling key, and will drink very well with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Le Ginestre

Le Ginestre Bardolino Chiaretto Classico Cà Roina
Barrel sample
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is surprisingly rich for a barrel sample, with sweetish strawberry and berry fruit supported by some floral accents and mentholated notes. Promising. On the palate it's sweeter and softer than many, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity, while slight sweetness confers roundness, and it flows into a clean sour cherry finish with slight brambly underpinning. It's fairly soft, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.

Le Muraglie

Le Muraglie Bardolino Chiaretto Biró 2010
Pale salmon pink with brilliant pink reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with greenish vegetal notes and brambles mingled with some spice and also some shellac. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sweetish wild strawberry fruit supported by peppery spice and slight greenish accents and brambles that flow into a brambly sour loquat finish with some greenish underpinning. It's bright, and fairly direct, and will drink well with rich foods, for example fried meats or fish, and also with hearty, creamy risotti and pasta dishes.
1 star

Le Tende

Le Tende Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, and a bit unusual, with a rush of sweaty blonde that brings Sauvignon to mind, supported by rather pungent underbrush. On the palate it's ample and fairly tart, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, some brambly greenish accents, and notes that again bring sauvignon to mind, flowing into a fairly tart finish. It's bright and powerful, and will work quite well with grilled fish or white meats, and also with fried meats and or fish. In short, an good summer wine that will also be handy at a cookout.. If you prefer softer smoother wines it will work less well for you.
1 star

Lenotti

Lenotti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with white reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents and some gooseberry notes, while there is also some heather and greenish notes. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry and wild raspberry fruit supported by moderately bright berry fruit acidity, and by some peppery spice that flows into a fairly bright clean peppery finish. Pleasant in a slightly softer key, and something to consider if you prefer this style to more aggressive wines.
2 stars

Marcello Marchesini

Marcello Marchesini Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon pink with bright pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a little funky, with savory notes mingled with pungency and some gooseberry more than the red fruit I associate with Bardolino. On the palate it's fairly rich, and also fairly soft, with ample wild strawberry fruit supported by considerable warmth and sour berry fruit acidity, which flow into a clean slightly brambly finish that continues at length.
1 star

Meneghello

Meneghello Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with wild strawberries and some gooseberry mingled with spice and deft citric acidity. Quite pleasant in a fairly bright scrappy key. On the palate it's languid, with less intense fruit than I might have hoped for supported by moderate rather mineral acidity and by slight tannins that have a brambly burr, and flow into a bitter mineral finish. It's a bit more settled than some.
1 star

Monte dei Roari

Bardolino Chiaretto Monte dei Roari 2010
Barrel sample
Pale salmon with bright salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's rather languid, with moderately intense wild strawberry fruit supported by loquat acidity and by savory accents and sea salt that carry into a fairly long savory finish. Pleasant, in a direct key.
1 star

Monte del Frà

Monte del Frà Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale pink with salmon reflections,. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit but not much, and hints of scalded milk. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with fairly rich loquat fruit supported by lively loquat acidity and peppery spice that fkows into a falrly long loqual finish. Direct,and will drink nicely with foods.
80-82

Monte Oliveto

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Onionskin with pale brassy reflections. the bouquet is mutes, with some underbrush and savory notes. On the palate it's fairly sweet, with bright loquat and wild strawberry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have slight brambly accents. The nose needs until summer to catch up, but will be quite pleasant as a cookout wine especially with grilled fish.
2 stars

Monte Zovo

Monte Zovo Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Rose pink with brilliant reflections. the bouquet is muted, floral accents wild strawberries some vegetal notes with slight brambles. The palate is ample and soft, with sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit, acidity and some sweetish accents, and also fairly bright greenish acidity.
1 star

Lorenzo Morando

Lorenzo Morando Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is muted, with some spice and slight berry fruit but not much else. It needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with loquat fruit supported by greenish brambly acidity that flows into a rather brambly finish.
2 stars

Pigno

Pigno Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale pink with white rim. The bouquet is delicate, with berry fruit and heather supported by wild strawberries and some brambles. On the palate it's deft, and fairly rich, with savory loquat fruit supported by a brambly underpinning and some greenish accents.
2 stars

Albino Piona

Albino Piona Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale salmon with white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some floral accents with forest berry fruit and some wild strawberries and heather. On the palate it's rich and lively, with wild strawberries supported by loquat acidity and some greenish accents that flow into a pleasantly tart finish that's fairly long. Fairly direct, and will work well with foods.
1 star

Giorgio Poggi

Giorgio Poggi Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale pink with faint petillance. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some scalded milk. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderate cherry fruit laced with wild strawberries and some sweetish accents that confer a degree of roundness, while there is also a savory underpinning.
1 star

Raval

Raval Bardolino Classico 2010
Elegant pink with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with wild strawberries supported by greenish accents and berry fruit jam with some underlying bramble and loquat acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, and pleasantly mineral, with some sour forest berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and flows into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Quick to write, but nice depth and will work well with foods.
2 stars

Dante Righetti

Dante Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale pink with white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, opening to reveal earthy notes and hints of laundry detergent -- what is called sapone di Marsiglia in Italy -- and bramble, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with brighter than expected sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight brambly tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish.
1 star

Enzo Righetti

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale pink rose with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pungent, with cut flowers and savory accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly tart, with minerality and mineral acidity supporting moderate sour cherry fruit, though what really stands out is the minerality, which carries through into the finish too.
1 star

San Zeno

San Zeno Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale pink with bright pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is spicy with some chemical accents that bring shellac to mind, and wet paper too -- it's bottle shocked. On the palate it's fairly bright, with clean berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and considerable sea salt that flows into a tart slightly brambly finish. It's fairly aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though it needs at least until summer 2011 for the nose to catch up with the body. A score now wouldn't reflect the wine's potential.

Sartori

Sartori Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale salmon with salmon reflections and white rim. The nose is shut tight, though swishing brings up some wild strawberries. On the palate it's ample, with bright wild strawberry fruit supported by warm loquat acidity and greenish accents mingled with savory sea salt that flows into a fairly long savory finish. It's quite approachable, and will drink well with foods.
2 stars

Tamburino Sardo

Tamburino Sardo Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale rose pink with lively highlights and white rim. The bouquet is pungent, with cut flowers and some brambles mingled with sea salt, but not much fruit. Quite young and still coming together. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively wild strawberries supported by clean savory acidity and tannins that have a slight brambly burr and flow into a fruit laced finish. Pleasant in a bright key.
2 stars

Giovanna Tantini

Giovanna Tantini Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale pink with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish vegetal accents and some bitterness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fresh, with lively acidity and some sour berry fruit, though what really comes through is the acidity, and it flows into a long tart finish. It's bright in a scrappy key, and if you like the style you should consider it.
2 stars

Tenuta San Leone

Tenuta San Leone Bardolino Chiaretto Monte Salgar 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and brings Sauvignon to mind, with sweaty blonde and some gooseberries supported by greenish savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by gooseberry accents that again bring sauvignon to mind, and considerable savory bitterness too. It's a bit atypical, but if you like the style you will like it.
1 star

Tinazzi

Tinazzi Bardolino Chiaretto Classico Cà dei Rocchi Campo delle Rose 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wild strawberries and slight accents that bring Sauvignon to mind, also greenish savory spice. On the palate it's fresh and bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by wild strawberries and lively sour berry fruit acidity, with peppery spice that flows into a rather bitter finish. It's fairly aggressive, and you have to like that to like the wine.
1 star

Tre Colline

Tre Colline Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory accents mingled with wild strawberries and some greenish spice; the overall impression is deft. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by loquat acidity and some greenish accents that flow into a savory, peppery finish with a tart loquat underpinning. Pleasant.
2 stars

Valletti

Valletti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
pale pink with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up savory notes with slight underbrush and moderate fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with savory spice and bright wild strawberries supported by acidity and slight sweetness that confers roundness, and it flows into a fairly long tart wild strawberry and loquat finish. Elegant in a bright key, and will be a perfect summer wine.
2 stars

Vigneti Villabella

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Chiaretto Classico Pozzo dell'Amore 2010
Lively salmon pink with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pungent, with powerful sauvignon accents that bring a sweaty strawberry blonde to mind, supported by greenish spice and some red berry fruit mingled with wild strawberries. On the palate it's ample and soft, with wild strawberries supported by gooseberry-loquat acidity and slight greenish brambles that flow into a fairly tart finish. It's a little softer than I expected, while the bitterness in the finish has bite.
1 star

Zenato

Zenato Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Pale salmon pink with bright reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wild strawberries and greenish vegetal notes mingled with slight bramble and some sweetness. On the palate it's bright, with lively wild strawberries supported by considerable bright acidity and some slight, brambly tannins that flow into a long tart sour berry fruit finish with a slight burr and some peppery accents. Quite pleasant in a scrappy tomboyish key.
2 stars

Wandering Puglia: (Mostly) Nero di Troia

The first day of our trip to Puglia began with a presentation of wines from Northern Puglia: a few whites, a few rosès, and then a selection of reds, most of which are based on Uva di Troia.

Since Uva di Troia starred, a quick introduction:

Uva di Troia, which is also called Nero di Troia (the terms are used interchangeably, and a fellow taster found a bottle that used both, Uva di Troia on the front label and Nero di Troia on the back label), is grown north of Bari. It's not the easiest grape to work with, according to Rivera's Sebastiano De Corato, who told me, a few years ago, that it was traditionally grown for volume, and therefore farmers preferred clones that produced large compact bunches, with fairly large grapes. Because of this bunch structure, ripening tended to be uneven, and as a result almost every bunch had a few unripe grapes, which contributed harsh unripe tannins. Rivera was propagating Nero di Troia vines (from their vineyards) that produce smaller, looser bunches of grapes that ripen more uniformly, and I am certain others are working along these lines too.

Despite its power and structure, I find Nero di Troia to have remarkably delicate aspects, especially on the nose, which can exhibit enticing floral aromas in addition to delicate prune and plum fruit (we are in Puglia, and the grapes do ripen). The wines can also exhibit cedary notes, and hints of seed spices such as cumin, and while one might be tempted to attribute these characteristics to oak, I think some of the more delicate nuances instead derive from the grapes. Unfortunately, if the wine spends time in wood (especially small wood), these characteristics are quickly masked, and then one notes cedar, oak, and oak tannins that Nero di Troia really doesn't need.

Nero di Troia is quite capable of standing on its own two feet without the aid of crutches, and I found myself best liking its younger expressions, those fermented in steel, aged briefly in steel (or cement), and then bottled. Barrique-aged Nero di Troia looses these delicate facets and is therefore much more anonymous, and -- to be frank -- mostly indifferent to humdrum.

Bottom line: Nero di Troia can be beautiful when it's young and fresh, and in years in which there is more acidity would also expect these young fresh wines to age nicely, because they certainly have the necessary backbone. But I don't think it needs much help in the cellars: Perhaps a brief spell in large oaken casks, but not small oak barrels. They strip it of everything.

And now the wines, in the order tasted:

Tenuta Fujanera Falanghina Puglia IGT 2008
Bright rather lively gold. The bouquet is fresh, young, and rather floral, with ripe fairly sweet melon as well and some acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite mineral, with bitter minerality and some citric acidity that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with flavorful fish.
1 star

Valle Dell'Elce Dauina IGT Bianco Puglia 2008
This is Greco and Bombino Bianco; it's brassy gold with brassy reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, and smoky, with considerable gunflint and some underlying metallic acidity - there is some oxidation here, and a fellow taster finds quince jam as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather languid, with lively mineral acidity that becomes steadily more savory as it fades. It's interesting but has peaked, I think.
1 star

Botromagno Poggio al Bosco Gravina DOC 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant greenish herbal notes, hints of sage and some honeydew melon and hints of elicriso (the herb). It has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with lively savory minerality and warm citric acidity as well, with some greenish artichoke petal tannins as well that flow into a warm dry savory finish; it's quite pleasant and will drink very well with fish or white meats, including creamy dishes.
2 stars

Alberto Longo Donnadele Negroamaro Puglia Rosato IGT 2008
Pale salmon pink, with brilliant salmon reflections. It looks scarico, which means unloaded, and brings to mind more a Bardolino Chiaretto than a southern wine. The bouquet is quite fresh, with mineral acidity and some red berry fruit supported by some leafy underbrush. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by deft raspberry currant acidity that flow into a clean bright red currant finish. Quite pleasant, and very fresh especially considering that it's already a year old; it will age nicely for another year and be nice with picnic foods, fish, and vegetable based pasta dishes or soups.
2 stars

Tarantini Petrigama Rosato Castel del Monte DOC 2008
This is from Bombino Nero grapes, which are only used to make roses; it's a very pretty lively pink with brilliant highlights and pale white rim. The bouquet is a bit off, with berry fruit mingled with fresh yogurt - the aroma that emerges from the yogurt machine when you remove the cover - and this is likely something related to the yeasts. On the palate it's more interesting, with fairly rich, soft red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a clean berry fruit finish with hints of lactic acid - the nose emerging again. It's better on the palate, but a bit lax, and I'll be curious to taste the next vintage.
1 star

Rivera Pungirosa Bombino Nero Castel del Monte DOC 2008
Lively pink with brilliant pink reflections and white nail. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some underbrush and pleasant spicy herbal accents. Nice, in a welcoming key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some sweet tannins, and moderate acidity that's not quite as bright as it might have been; and flows into a clean berry fruit finish with some hints of plum. It's pleasant, and very approachable, but slightly lacking in acidity, and I would have liked a little more depth to it. But it will drink well with foods. Just that it's a tad direct.
2 stars

Rasciatano Vigne di Rascialone Rosè IGT Puglia 2008
Salmon with brilliant salmon reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is powerful and pungent, with leafy underbrush and savory accents, also bitterness. On the palate it's direct, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity that has a slight milky feel to it, and slight tannins.
1 star

Colle Petrito Ferula Rosato Castel Del Monte DOC 2008
Lively rosy pink with brilliant reflections and white rim, The bouquet is fairly intense, with some red berry fruit mingled with chemical accents and some spice, also a fair amount of alcohol. Up front, and not as fresh as it was a few months ago, alas. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate acidity supporting rather nondescript fruit. It has held up fairly well, but at this point needs the new vintage to step in for it.
1 star

Colle Petrito Iaccio della Portata Nero di Troia Puglia IGT 2008
Deep cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with warmth and underbrush mingled with some berry fruit and slight balsamic notes; swishing also brings up some herbal accents and a slight sweetness. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cedar-laced bitter minerality and dry cedary tannins (from grape) that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. Not much richness of fruit; the wine revolves more around minerality and bitterness, and some iodine also emerges in the finish.
1 star

Donna Cecilia Vino Rosso IGT Daulina 2008
Lively pinkish ruby with dark reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and plum cherry fruit supported by some residual sugars that confer jaminess, and by spice. Pleasant to sniff, in a rather opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean dry tannic finish with berry fruit overtones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Rivera Violante Nero di Troia Castel del Monte DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with iodine and underbrush mingled with berry fruit, some spice, and delicate floral overtones. Nice depth, and graceful. On the palate it's full, with fresh lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly greenish burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quite pleasant, and nicely displays the potential of Nero di Troia done in steel: Interesting fruit, interesting floral accents, nice tannins, and nothing to get in the way or mask it. It will drink very well with roasts or stews, and you can expect the bottle to go quickly. One of the finest Nero di Troia wines presented, and the floral accents on the nose, which are delicate enough that oak would mask them, make it even more interesting.
90

Tenuta Fujanera Arrocco Nero di Troia 2008
Cherry ruby with pink cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with sugary plum fruit supported by jam; it gives an impression of considerable ripeness, and there are also some greenish vegetal notes that are well integrated. On the palate it's ample, soft, and sweet, with plum fruit supported by tannins that have some cedary accents to them, not much in the way of acidity, and some jammy accents. Very fruit forward and soft; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. If you prefer brighter wines it won't work for you.
1 star

Tarantini Petrigama Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2008
Ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is eye opening, with candied fruit mingled with acidity and spice, with hints of medicine cabinet as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's rather thin, with moderate nondescript fruit supported by tannins that have a cedary burr and flow into a rather quick finish. I found it to be rather dilute.
1 star


Antica Enotria Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with swishing bringing up some sour berry fruit and smoke, and greenish accents as well, and fair acidity as well. On the palate it's ample and sfot, with bitter berry fruit supported by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a cedar-laced finish. It's a bit disjointed, and I found myself wanting more.
1 star

Santa Lucia Vigna del Melograno Uva di Troia Castel del Monte Rosso 2007
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with purple reflections and deep ruby rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is enticing, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity; it's welcoming in a decidedly opulent key. On the palate it's bright, with chewy cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedar overlay, and by acidity that provides direction, flowing into a fairly dry savory finish with leafy underbrush tannins that have savory accents as well. It will work well with food and is pleasant in a fruit driven key, while the tannins will help it to accompany succulent meats or roasts. Versatile, and enjoyable.
2 stars

Cantina La Marchesa Il Nerone della Marchesa Vino Rosso IGT Daunia
This is named after La Marchesa's grandfather, who was nicknamed Il Nerone. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slight vegetal accents. Quite pleasant to sniff, in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. It's a little thinner than one might have expected on the palate, but quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Vigne di Rascitano Rasciatano Nero di Troia IGT Puglia 2007
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some lactic acid mingled with some berry fruit and some wood smoke as well. Not exciting, and tired. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate fruit and a fair amount of wood that leads into a decidedly savory finish.
1 star

Torre Quarto Bottaccia Uva di Troia IGT Puglia 2007
Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with petroleum and spice mingled with some brisk acidity and some balsamic notes with underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and tannins that have some cedary accents, and flow into a clean rather savory finish. On the palate it's more interesting than the nose, which is in an interrogatory phase. It needs time, a year or two.

Torrevento Matervitae Aglianico Puglia IGT Rosso 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by graphite shavings and greenish grilled pepper, with a fair amount of spice and some cedar as well. Nice depth. On the palate it's it's rich and languid, with chewy cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter cherry fruit finish. Pleasant, and is also a very distinct change of pace with respect to the other wines poured at the tasting.
2 stars

Botromagno Pier Delle Vigne Murgia Rosso IGT 2003
This is a blend of Aglianico and Montepulciano. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit mingled with green leather, minerality, and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. Nice balance in a distinctly more mature key, but then again it is a 2003. And it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with ample red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warm sour cherry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish with lasting acidity. Very fresh for a 2003, especially considering how hot it was, and a pleasant wine that will work very well with succulent roasts or stews. It wasn't a revelation, because I have tasted Botromagno's wines before, but is very nice, with considerable depth and elegance.
88-90

Rivera Puer Apuliae Nero di Troia Castel del Monte 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy plum fruit supported by some iodine and slight lactic acid. Non-descript. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by terrific cedar that flows into a tart cedar laced finish. Oak in a glass, and it completely overpowers the fruit. A pity, because Nero di Troia can do much more.
1 star

Valle dell'Elce Rosso Essenziale IGT Daunia Rosso 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet opulent, with jammy red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some spice. It comes across as fairly sweet. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with rather languid cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate berry fruit acidity; it gives an impression of trying very hard, but (for me) it comes up a bit short.
1 star

Alberto Longo Le Cruste Nero Di Troia Puglia IGT Rosso 2006
Deep black cherry ruby; impenetrable. The bouquet is eye opening, with jammy fruit mingled with wet leather, spice, and with red berry fruit. On the palate it's ample, and to my mind a bit over oaked.
1 star

Torrevento Vigna Quarrate Castel Del Monte Riserva 2005
Black cherry ruby with jammy berry fruit supported by spice; nice depth and elegance. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. On the palate it has a slightly dilute feel; the tannins step in and are a touch drier than one might have expected, bit the wine will work quite well with foods.
2 stars

Finally, two Nero Di Troia wines tasted the night before the general tasting:

Cefalicchio Rosato Ponte della Lama Puglia IGT 2008
This is 100% Nero di Troia; it's a brilliant pomegranate red that's quite pretty. The bouquet is clean, with floral-herbal accents and some red berry fruit mingled with underbrush and a fair amount of savory acidity. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively minerality and bright tannins with a burr that leads into a clean bitter finish. It's more the little brother of a red than a classic rosè, and one can taste the limestone the vines draw their life from. Quite pleasant and will work very well with a wide variety of foods, ranging from cold cuts and fairly fresh cheeses though pasta and soups, and also with simple meats. In a word, versatile, and though many 2008 rosès are by now beginning to tire this one hasn't at all, and was still bright after an hour in the glass. Impressive.
90

Cefalicchio Romanico Nero di Troia Rosso di Canossa Riserva DOC 2005
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and violet rim. Tremendous color. The bouquet is powerful, with musty underbrush and savory spice mingled with wet leaves, minerality, and some gunflint. Considerable depth, and has a lot to say; as it opens it reveals all sorts of facets, in particular intriguing hints of crushed almonds. On the palate it's ample and rich, with savory cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Quick to write but pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats, especially more succulent meats as the tannins do a fine job of clearing the palate. It's fruit rich but not a fruit bomb, and is a fine food wine that will also age nicely for at least 5 years.
90