Franzoni: Botticino!

Lombardia has a number of so-called lesser appellations, and Botticino, a red from the Alpine foothills to the west of Brescia (mid-way between Brescia and Lake Garda), is one of them. To be honest, the major reason Botticino is obscure is the volume produced; were the appellation larger, and more wine available, it would be much better known.

The climate and topography of the Botticino appellation resemble those of Piemonte, but the winemakers have been wise enough not to tangle with Nebbiolo, which is extraordinarily picky regarding where it is planted, and instead work with a mixture of at least 30% Barbera, at least 20% Marzemino, at least 10% each Sangiovese and Schiava Gentile, and up to 10% other non-aromatic red varietals permitted by the Province of Brescia.

The wine must be fermented and bottled locally. Botticino D'Annata cannot be released until the June following the harvest, while Botticino Riserva must age for at least a year, and cannot be released until the second November after the harvest. Minimum Alcohol contents are 11% for the vino d'Annata and 12% for the Riserva.

This year the Azienda Franzoni sent me three wines to taste.

Franzoni Ronco del Gallo Botticino DOC 2007
Lot 0942, 13% alcohol
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous, with lively sour berry fruit -- cherry and some currants, with other dark wild fruit as well -- supported by bitter underbrush and some wet tree bark, with slight graphite shavings and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. Scrappy, and rather tomboyish. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry acidity that has some graphite laced bitterness to it, and some underlying minerality, with slight cedar as well, and tannins that have a savory burr and flow into a long rather sour finish. It's as brash on the palate as it was on the nose, and if you're coming from softer smoother international-style wines you'll think you have landed on a different planet. But it is welcoming, leaving the palate clean, and is the sort of wine that will work very well with mixed grilled meats or even fried meats and vegetables. F you're more traditionally minded and like this style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Franzoni La Foja Botticino DOC 2006
Lot 3201, 13.5% alcohol
Deep cherry ruby with black cherry reflections and rim paling to ruby. No real signs of almandine yet. The bouquet is elegant, and richer than the Ronco's, with more seductive berry fruit laced with slight hints of cedar, and a little less acidity -- where the Ronco was brash, this is slightly more curvy, the tomboy grown up as it were. Quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich slightly balsamic sour red berry fruit supported by moderate rather balsamic acidity and by tannins that have wet leafy underbrush accents and flow into a clean underbrush laced finish. It's more refined that the Ronco, but cut from the same cloth, with an interplay sourness and grape tannins that is much more traditional than international, and it will work nicely with grilled meats (less fatty cuts than the Ronco; I would think about a steak) or light stews that aren't too spicy. It is still quite young, and will age nicely for another 2-3 years, though its current freshness is also quite enjoyable.
90

Franzoni Foja d'Or Botticino Riserva DOC 2004
Lot 3271, 14% Alcohol
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim that has slight almandine accents; the wine is 8 years old and the colors are starting to shift. The bouquet is deft, with red berry fruit supported by slight cedar with hints of almonds and some savory notes, and also slight nose tingling spice, with some alcohol as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich sour cherry fruit that has fairly bright raspberry acidity -- the Barbera in the blend -- supported by deft rather mineral acidity with some graphite shaving bitterness, and savory accents that flow into a long rather savory sour berry fruit finish. Very nice, with beautiful balance in a fairly traditional key; it again revolves around the interplay between fruit and acidity, while the tannins support and provide backbone without distracting cedar or other influences. Very pleasant, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much; it is ready now, but will also age nicely for another three to five years at least, assuming you have the patience. I'm not sure I would. In terms of accompaniments, succulent not too fatty red meats, either roasted or off the grill.
91-93

A last thing to note: for their more important wines, Botticino's wineries employ a bottle called a Deformata Piemonte, which resembles an Albeisa-style bottle, but has a twist in it that throws it off-center. Looks a bit odd, but fits the hand very well and is easy to pour from.

More about Botticino, from Roberto Giuliani's fantastic writeup of Italian appellations.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Felice Scarpari's Botticino, a Wine I was Happy to Discover

Shortly before Vinitaly the Azienda Franzoni sent me samples of Botticino, a lesser known red wine made in the Province of Brescia from Barbera, Sangiovese, Schiava and Marzemino. The wines were good, in a lively, rather brash key that made them perfect for grilled meats, including fattier cuts such as lamb chops, and I decided to taste through hall the Bottocino in Vinitaly. This proved easier than I expected, because only one estate in the padiglione Lmbardia had it: Felice Scarpari.

Felice Scarpari Botticino 2007 DOC

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright greenish cherry fruit supported by slight balsamic notes and some alcohol, mingled with slight sweetish accents and jammy notes. Nice fairly rich balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by considerable acidity and bright sweet moderately intense tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in an aggressive key, and quite bright; if you like smoother softer wines it won't work for you, but if you like brasher wines it will be perfect for a platter of mixed grilled meats.
2 stars

Felice Scarpari Vinum

This is the same wine as the Botticino, and again a 2007, but is aged in the Minera Pezzaze Marsoli in the Alta Val Trompia -- an old iron mine -- whose tunnels are at a constant 95% humidity and 9 degrees C, about 48 F. The neck of the bottle is covered with gum Arabic, which transpires but keeps mold from forming on the cork, while the bottles stay in perfect darkness for 365 days.
It's the same deep ruby as the other wine, and has a deft bouquet that's somewhat brighter than the base wine, and also more brambly, with brambly berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and clean spice. Deft, and the lack of light may contribute to its slightly greater youth and finesse. On the palate it's bright, with clean sour cherry fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright tannic finish with a sour berry fruit overlay. On the palate the difference is more marked, with the Miniera displaying considerably greater finesse and elegance. Quite pleasant, and the difference that total darkness makes is surprising.
90

Felice Scarpari Botticino Riserva 2006

This is from a careful selection of grapes, and spent 6 months in large wood after temperature controlled fermentation. A slightly more charged black cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is more closed than the younger wine, though energetic swishing brings up berry fruit laced with spice and alcohol. It's still coming together, and brings to mind a person who is pulling his coat tight around his shoulders. On the palate it's medium bodied and brisk, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by warmth, some tart acidity, and tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a warm slightly tannic finish. It needs time and will come together well. I would give it 3-5 years, and open it with a steak.
2 stars

Scarpari has also decided to introduce something new, a Botticino Chinato. They want a wine that's not overly aromatic:

Felice Scarpari Punta Castello Vino Aromatizzato alla China

The wine is a 2007, and is 16% alcohol. Ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is intense and characteristic, with sweet warm red berry fruit shot through with quinine and herbal accents mingled with powerful spice -- nutmeg, cloves, hints of mint and more -- and underlying sweetness. On the palate it's pleasant and fairly rich, with initial sweetness and cherry fruit supported by dusky quinine bitterness that also contributes tree bark accents to the tannins, and flows into a long fairly sweet quinine-laced finish. Their goal was to make a wine to finish the meal with, one that would be less strong than a cordial -- a good thing considering the alcohol limits in force in Italy -- and they have succeeded. It will be a nice, rather particular way to wind up a meal.
2 stars

Pugnitello, Lambrusco, Botticino...

I know, there's not much of a connection between these wines, but I recently received samples of all three.

We'll begin with the Lambrusco.

Lusvardi, whose slogan is "Sparkling by Nature," is a small winery in Molino di Gazzata (Province of Reggio Emilia), which employs Salamino and Grasparossa to make their wines. They sent two, both labeled Lambrusco Brut Vino Spumante (on the back labels), one of which is Red and the other Rosato. Neither indicates a vintage, but I would expect them to be from the 2010 harvest.

Lusvardi Brut Rosé
Lot 04
Pale raspberry pink with white rime and lively perlage that bubbles nicely. The bouquet is fresh, with fairly bright raspberry fruit supported by some acidity and slight breadcrumbs with some hints of mint as well. On the palate it's fairly full, with the fullness also coming from the sparkle, and moderately intense sour raspberry cherry fruit that is supported by both savory raspberry acidity, and by an underlying bitterness that almost brings quinine to mind, and though this might make one wonder it shouldn't, because it provides depth and counterpoint to the acidity. It will be a very nice summer wine and will drink quite well at a cookout or picnic, with white meats or fish, and also be nice with cool summer dishes. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Lusvardi Brut
Lot 04
It's a pale garnet, and the foam is pinkish white, which leads me to suspect that there is more Salamino than Grasparossa in the blend. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit mingled with bitter accents and some herbal notes, a mixture of oregano and chopped rosemary needles, and some underlying sea salt as well. On the palate it doesn't have the verve of the Rosato -- the sparkle is less intense -- though it is present and adds peppery body, while the fruit is moderately intense red berry fruit supported by bitter accents, almost a graphite shaving bitterness, and by some acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with bitter underpinning that also reveals some herbal accents of rosemary and oregano. It's pleasant though a little more demanding than many Lambruschi; it's a wine that looks one in the eye and converses, rather than going down thoughtlessly. It's not as fruity nor as floral as some Lambrusco, and if you look for that in your Lambrusco this won't work as well for you. If you instead prefer a touch more minerality and hints of underbrush, which do work well, you will enjoy it. In terms of accompaniments, I would think of simple grilled meats and the fixings of a cookout, or perhaps a simple red sauced summer pasta dish.
1 star

Lambrusco has come a great ways since my college days, and every year there are ore Lambruschi that revolve more around quality than simplicity. A pleasant development.

For More Information, Check Lusvardi's Site

Cantine Olivi

A while back I received an invitation to something I couldn't attend. In reading it, however, I noted that one of the wineries, the Azienda Agricola Le Buche, was presenting a Pugnitello. This is an old Tuscan varietal that San Felice has been working with for a while, and I was quite curious to taste another winemaker's interpretation, so I asked Le Buche for a sample, which they were kind enough to send.

The Azienda is located in Sarteano, which is south of Siena in Central Tuscany, not far from either Montalcino or Montepulciano. In addition to the Pugnitello they sent me Coreno, a white, and we'll begin with that:

Coreno 2010 IGT Toscana 2010
Lot 11-400
This is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianca, the traditional Tuscan white grapes, and is from an older vineyard. It's pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections, and has an intense bouquet with savory citric accents -- almost like a sour lemon dusted with salt -- supported by herbals notes and heather from a cut field, with some bitter honey as well. On the palate it's rich, and quite savory, with considerable minerality as well, and a slight burr, which flows into a long warm mineral finish with underlying savory acidity. Powerful, and rather brash, in a way that the nose partially presages, and we're a far cry from a delicately oaked wine here. If you like the style, which is vigorous, it will drink very well with grilled fish, and has the acidity and savor necessary to work well with fried fish or meats. With the proper company, it will go very fast.
2 stars

Olivi Cantine Pugnitello Toscana IGT 2008 Lot 10-500
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim; it's close to poured purple ink. The bouquet is fresh, with fairly bright violets and floral accents mingled with iodine and graphite shavings, and some very ripe forest berry fruit, with underbrush as well. Intriguing, and a nice change of pace from Sangiovese. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with minerality more than fruit, and an underlying earthy bitterness that flows into the finish, which is fairly long and again mineral with some India ink, and reveals tongue-tingling black pepper notes as the other things fade. It's interesting, and does require a shifting of gears with respect to the more common Tuscan wines, but is enjoyable and will work well with roasts or stews. It's not for everyone; if you prefer wines that are fruit forward it won't work as well for you, but if you like to think outside the box and think about what's in your glass you will likely enjoy it.
2 stars

The Azienda Le Buche's Site


Franzoni: Vini Bresciani
Lombardia has a number of so-called lesser appellations, and Botticino, from the Alpine foothills to the west of Brescia (mid-way between Brescia and Lake Garda), is one of them. They note that the climate and topography of their region resemble those of Piemonte, but have been wise enough not to tangle with Nebbiolo, which is extraordinarily picky regarding where it is planted, and instead work with a mixture of Barbera, Marzemino, Sangiovese, and Schiava Gentile.

The other thing to note about Botticino is that the wineries employ a bottle called a Deformata Piemonte, which resembles an Albeisa-style bottle, but has a twist in it that throws it off-center. Looks a bit odd, but fits the hand very well and is easy to pour from.

The Azienda Franzoni sent two samples, a 2005 Botticino and a 2003 Botticino Riserva; there are wines that age well and need time to emerge.

Franzoni La Foja Botticino DOC 2005
Lot not visible.
Brick ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is intense, and bright, with red berry fruit supported by acidity and by some heather; the acidity is to be expected given the Barbera, and the other grapes contribute complexity, with some graphite shavings and hints of iodine, and also spice with slight hints of wet earth, and as it opens some balsamic accents. Pleasant, in a slightly reserved key. On the palate it's bright, and medium bodied, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by rather slight tannins that are smooth, and flow into a fairly long, slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well with roasts or stews; it has a traditional feel to it and is far removed from barriques or other newfangled inventions, and is more a food wine than something to sip (unless you're a traditionalist) far from the table. I enjoyed it, which should come as no surprise considering my tastes.
88-90

Franzoni Foja d'Or Botticino Riserva DOC 2003 Lot 3400
Deep garnet ruby with garnet in the rim; one wouldn't guess, to look at it, that it's going on 8 years old. The bouquet is moderately intense, with iodine and wet tree bark at first sniff, followed by slight red berry fruit and more intense savory accents; it has an austere feel to it. On the palate it's rich, with bright ripe cherry and sour berry fruit that is not at all jammy -- a problem that is frequent in 2003 vintage wines, though there is a greater ripeness than in the 2005 wine and some alcohol-related sweetness -- supported by moderately intense smooth sweet tannins and by deft slight bitterness that flow into a clean underbrush laced mineral finish. It's graceful and quite enjoyable, and will drink very well with a roast or a hearty stew. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
88-90

Botticino is a wine I have tried before, but never systematically, and I must now thank the Azienda Franzoni, because they have given me a project for Vinitaly.