Tasted at Radici: Tenuta Giustini

Tentua Giustini was founded in 2005 by Maria Grazia Longo, whose family had made wine for generations but had always sold it in bulk. They have 15 hectares of vineyards, some quite old, planted to indigenous varietals; the vines that yield Primitivo Dolce are trimmed in the Alberello style and the rest to the double cordon spur system.

Tenuta Giustini Vecchio Sogno Negroamaro Salento IGT 2009
This is their mainstay; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, and has an elegant nose with berry fruit and floral accents, mingled with menthol and graphite shavings. Cheeky, like a smiling child. On the palate it's medium bodied and rich, with pleasant berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are smooth and balsamic, with some sandalwood warmth, and flow into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. Very approachable, with a touch more acidity and tannin than some would want in a wine to drink by the glass, though not me. It will work very well with drier meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Giustini Patú Salento IGT 2010
Deep brick ruby. The bouquet has cherry fruit with savory spice, some plum, and considerable freshness with hints of menthol and a fair amount of alcohol that confers sweetness. On the palate it's full and graceful, with plum prune fruit supported by some balsamic notes and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm rather balsamic prune finish. Pleasant and well defined; it will drink very well with drier meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Giustini L'Arcano Primitivo Dolce Naturale Puglia IGT 2010
Deep brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy and moderately sweet, with some graphite shavings and spice -- not as sweet as I would expect a Primitivo Dolce to be. On the palate the sweetness is there, however, somewhat diarticulated from the prune fruit, which is supported by balsamic tannins that flow off into a balsamic prune laced finish. It's going in two different directions, with a finish quicker than I might have liked, and though one can say it needs time to come together, it will never display the baroque opulence I associate with Primitivo Dolce.
1 star

Tasted at Vin Nature: Antiche Cantine de Quarto

Antiche Cantine de Quarto is another winery I tasted the afternoon I left Vinitaly for Vin Nature, a group of winemakers who eschew all kinds of chemicals and pesticides -- I sat down for what I thought would be a last wine before dinner, liked it, and tried another and another. Rather like nibbling on a bowl of cherries.

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Fiano Intenso IGP Puglia 2010
This is a Minutolo; it's elegant brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and has an intense bouquet with considerable goodeberry laced with roses and greenish vegetal accents, supported by acidity that has a definite mineral zing to it. A lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful lemony fruit laced with some citrus, and deft greenish minerality that flows into a bright gooseberry citrus finish. Quite zesty, and will work very well with flavorful grilled fish and dishes such as a Tiella. Something to keep an eye out for.
2 stars

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Mucchio Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some concord grape jelly and considerable sweetness. Voluptuous. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by plum sweetness and moderate acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly dry, and flow into a clean fresh prune finish. Very nicely balanced, and though it is fairly strong the alcohol doesn't disturb. A fine, fine expression of the varietal, and worth seeking out.
90-92

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Dionisio Primitivo di Manduria DOC Riserva 2008
This is made from the best bunches, ripened further, fermented slowly, and then aged in wood for a few months. Inky purple. The bouquet is rich, with jammy Concord grapes laced with sweetness and some petroleum, hints of gooseberry, and deft spice with underlying alcohol. Beautiful balance and complexity though I found myself preferring the linearity of the Mucchio. On the palate it's full and smooth, with rich red cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and warmth that has savory balsamic accents, and by tannins that are dry and cedar laced, and flow into a long warm cedar laced finish. Very fine and quite approachable, and if you are of international tastes you may prefer it, but I find that Primitivo really doesn't need wood.
90

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Pozzella Lizzano Rosso Negroamaro DOC 2009
Deep cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and some vegetal accents; it's fairly rich, and gives an impression of zestiness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit laced with minerality and some underbrush that flows into a clean rather fresh mineral finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with red meats or light stews.
2 stars

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Tarantola Lizzano Rosso Superiore DOC 2005
Again, Negroamaro. Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with green leather and savory notes, as well as sweet underbrush and minerality. Nice depth in a mature key, and as it opens herbal accents also emerge. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright berry fruit supported by some sweetness from alcohol, minerality, and tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a clean brambly greenish finish. It's a nice expression of the grape, and will work well with grilled meats or hearty stews, though I wouldn't age it for that much longer.
2 stars

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Albiria Primitivo di Manduria Dolce DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with brown sugar and hints of leather mingled with caramel and plums, prune fruit and some vegetal accents, lacy sugar, violets and other blossoms, mentholated notes, and one could go on and on. Terrific complexity. On the palate it's full, rich, and sweet, with elegant prune cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet tannins, and is beautifully harmonious, a wine that seems simple because everything is in its place, but that one can sip for hours without tiring of.
92-3

They also make a liqueur called Elisir di Primitivo, a digestivo of sorts, which was a very nice way to finish up the tasting. Extremely pleasant.

For more information, check their web site.

Tasted at Radici: Morella

Last year in the course of Radici we went on an interminable bus tour (the driver got lost), the high point of which (and it was most definitely a high point) was a visit to Morella, a tiny winery a few km southwest of Manduria, to see old growth Primitivo trained to the Alberello, or shrub style.

It was quite instructive to wander the vineyards, looking at the gnarly vines while Lisa Gilbee, an Australian winemaker who came to Puglia to work about 10 years ago and fell in love (with the land, but more importantly, with Gaetano), told us what she was doing, tales that made us all the more eager for dinner, where she would be presenting several vintages of her Primitivo. They were beautiful, in a vigorous very modern style.

This year Lisa and Gaetano came to Radici to present their wines, and I spent a very profitable hour tasting, talking and learning.

Morella Mezzogiorno Bianco IGP Bianco Salento 2010
Pale brassy white with breassy reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some greenish notes mingled with honeysuckle and some spice. Graceful; nice depth and very fresh, and as it swishes some minerality also emerges. On the palate it's delicate, with nice white berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by deft savory accents with a warm burr that flow into a clean fresh fairly mineral finish. Quite pleasant and will be a versatile food wine.
2 stars

Morella Primitivo - Negroamaro Terre Rosse IGT Salento 2008
This is a blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro, the grapes, which are harvested plot by plot (thus allowing her to tell exactly what each plot is like), are pressed using a basket press and fermented in upright conical wood vats. There's no filtration, only racking. Returning to the wine, it's deep, almost violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and some spice at the outset, and as it opens elegant berry fruit, a mixture of fairly tart cherry and plum, emerges. Gives an impression of fullness. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that do display a slight greenish burr and some peppery accents, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Nice depth in an international key and quite bright; it's very approachable and will work very well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Morella Primitivo - Malbec Terre Rosse IGT Tarantino 2008
This is an IGT Tarantino because the Tarantino Disciplinare allows for Malbec, which was planted in Puglia after the Phylloxera outbreak to make bulk wine to sell to the French. Though Malbec is no longer an important varietal in Puglia some has survived, and they have enough in their vineyards for it to contribute 15% to the blend. The wine is deep almandine with almandine rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with spice and berry fruit supported by some cedar, with underlying acidity. The Malbec, despite it's being a relatively small percentage of the blend, has a profound impact, adding verve and bite to the Primitivo. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with nice cherry plum fruit supported by deft greenish acidity and peppery spice, while the tannins are smooth and peppery and flow into a clean peppery finish. It's quite approachable, and will work well with red meats; for example grilled or roasted leg of lamb or even lamb chops.
2 stars

Morella Old Vines Primitivo 2007
This is from 80 year-old vines trained to the Alberello style. Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with vegetal notes and plum fruit supported by spice and cedar; it's fairly harmonious but also very young, and though the energy is there it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a savory cedar underpinning and considerable warmth, and flow into a long warm cedar-laced finish. A beautiful expression of Primitivo in an international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer the more traditional style it won't work as well for you, though you may find yourself reevaluating it with time because it will age quite well.
90

Morella La Signora Primitivo 2007
This is from a contiguous vineyard they now own; the vines are planted to the Alberello system but are only 60 years old, and are a different clone than those of the Old Vines. Almandine with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with peppery spice and some cherry plum fruit mingled with balsamic accents. Quite elegant, in a brighter key than the Old Vines, with more berries and cherries than plum. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sandalwood laced tannins and fairly bright warm acidity that flows into a warm berry fruit finish; it has redder fruit than the Old Vines, and is also somewhat more savory, but is equally elegant, and which you prefer will depend upon your personal tastes.
88-90

Morella Old Vines Primitivo 2001
This was their first vintage, and was poured from a Magnum. Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and some greenish accents; it's much more oaky than the more recent vintages. On the palate it's full, with rich powerful berry fruit supported by warmth and peppery cedar-laced tannins that flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant in an international key, and has held very well, showing considerable potential and fruit. It's interesting to note how Lisa has backed away from oak since this vintage -- the 2001 had terrific fruit that shoulders the oak well, where a less good vintage would have been overwhelmed. Then she was clearly very good at her job, but doing what she knew worked (elsewhere) in new surroundings. Now she has a much better feel for Puglian terroir and varietals, and her touch is ever much defter.
2 stars

Morella Mezzanotte Rosso IGT Salento Rosso 2010
This is something in a different direction, made by leaving Primitivo on the vines longer to obtain jammy notes, and harvesting it together with Petit Verdot, Cabernet and Negroamaro (about 30% in all) and fermenting the resulting wine in cement. At least this was the plan; this year it rained, forcing her to harvest a little sooner than she's have liked, and to compensate she put some of the wine in oak. But the goal remains a different style of Primitivo. Deep ruby, with a fairly rich bouquet that has red berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some spice, and also by minerality and floral accents,. With, as it opens, some savory tobacco leaves too. Pleasant and fresh. On the palate it's full, with bright rich plum cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and savory notes mingled with some underbrush and fair warmth, and by sweet peppery tannins (the Cabernet, remember) that flow into a long fruit laced finish. Quite approachable and a fine food wine that will work very well with grilled meats or light stews; it's quite fruit forward, and while the Primtivo lays the foundations the other varietals provide depth and character, and also help to lower the total alcohol levels. Impressive for a first vintage, and future vintages will be interesting to follow.
2 stars

Want to know more: Morella's Site

Tasted at Radici: Macchiarola

The nicest thing about Radici is the variety of wineries participating: Some established names, and others that are very, very new.

Macchiarola falls into the latter category; The estate belongs to a family that has a Masseria, or farm complex, with 6 hecates of Primitivo, planted in 2005 a spalliera, which is a trellis system. The first vintage was 2007, and in 2010 they began to make Negroamaro, using the grapes from a vineyard that belongs to a neighbor.

The didn't filter the 2007 and 2008 vintages at all, but now clarify and filter lightly to increase stability.

Macchiarola Negroamaro 2010
Tank sample
Deep ruby. The nose is spicy and rather exotic, with savory notes and berry fruit mingled with some sweaty blonde and some sea salt. Not bad for a first attempt! On the palate it's quite bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by lively acidity and fairly bright tannins that flow into a fairly warm finish. A fine food wine that will be perfect at a cookout or with grilled meats. Freshness in a glass.

Macchiarola Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2009
This was a different vintage, with high acidity that they compensated for by allowing the grapes to ripen further (and going through the vineyard to eliminate imperfect buches); they did obtain balance, but with 16% alcohol. It's in steel because they are still evaluating the vineyard. Deep pigeon blood ruby with brick rim. The bouquet is powerful and sweet, with savory notes and plum berry fruit mingled with sea salt, quite a bit of spice, and scalded milk. On the palate it's moderately rich, with plum prune fruit supported by some sweetness nicely balanced by savory accents and dried prune, and by tannins that have some warmth to them. The vineyard is still quite young and as a result the wine, though promising, lacks the depth future vintages will have. In short, a wine to keep an eye out for in future vintages.

Angiuli Donato: Eye-Opening Wines from Gioa Del Colle and the Val D'Itria, Revisited

Donato Angiuli is a small winemaker located in Gioia del Colle that Enzo Scivetti introduced me to last year at Vinitaly. The wines were a revelation then and continue to be one now. Truth be told, Enzo took me to see him because of a white, rather than the reds that are the mainstay of production, and I returned as much for it this year as for the reds.

A word of explanation: Though the winery is located in Gioa Del Colle, they also have some vineyards in the Valle D'Itria, home to some of Puglia's finest white wines, and in addition to making a Verdeca, are reviving an almost forgotten grape called Maruggio, which they are producing in a sparkling version that is -- so far as I know -- unique.

It's sparkling, and though the sparkle is obtained through bottle fermentation it's not obtained by the Metodo Classico. Rather, they ferment the wine almost to completion in tank, and then bottle it, thus capturing the last of the gasses produced by the primary fermentation, and producing the sparkle. The bottles are then disgorged, topped off, and recorked, and that's it.

Sounds odd, but Donato says it's how the farmers of the area used to make a little sparkling wine, and when the university people who are studying Maruggio suggested he make it sparkle, he decided to use the old technique.
Angiuli Donato Spumante Binaco Brut
This is from Maruggio and is bottle fermented (look up last year) Pale milky yellowish white with fine intense perlage. The bouquet is fresh and savory with considerable sea salt and some yeasty notes that almost bring whey to mind, and also some citric accents. On the palate it's full, with the fullness coming from both wine and sparkle, and decidedly savory, with underlying minerality and slight citric accents that fade as the finish come forth, giving way to the mineral acidity that continues throughout, mineral accents, and slight sea salt. It's a very, very different sparkling wine and one that isn't for everyone, but if you like deft savory sparkle supported by mineral acidity you will enjoy it. It stands out, and is worth seeking out if you like this kind of wine.
2 stars

This year, something new:

Angiuli Donato Spumante Rosato Brut
This is made from Malvasia Nera and Montepulciano, with indigenous yeasts as is the case with the Bianco. It's pale slightly cloudy pink with fine white perlage, and has a bright bouquet with savory notes mingled with raspberries and some vegetal accents. Bracing. On the palate it's dry, with mineral laced sour berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and savory accents, with some underlying bitterness, that carry into the finish. It's not quite as full as the Bianco because the sparkle isn't quite as powerful, but does have considerable character, and if you like this sort of thing you will enjoy it. It's not for all, but will hit the spot perfectly for some and be a nice apritif
2 stars

Angiuli Donato Maccone Moscato Bianco Puglia IGT 2010 This is dry, to go well with crustaceans and other things along those lines. The wine is brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly greenish honeysuckle supported by clover honey and some dried apricot with underlying savory accents. It's quite pleasant to sniff, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample, and dry (as dry as a Moscato can be), with rich loquat and dried apricot fruit supported by deft apricot acidity that gains depth and complexity from considerable savory notes, and flows into a clean savory loquat laced finish with some minerality as well. Very nice, and will work well with crustaceans, and also be a nice wine for antipsti, especially fish or cheese based, and I could see it working well with a frittata on a hot summer's day.
90-92

Maccone Rosso Vino Da Tavola
This is a 2008, obtained from red grapes (Primitivo) trained in the Alberello, or bush style. 17 gradi, 17% alcohol. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim, and has an elegant bouquet with prunes and cherry fruit supported by deft sandalwood and spice with some hints of bramble as well. Quite harmonious. On the palate it's full, and rich, with sweet plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly dry finish with underlying tannic bitterness and more sweetness that is a consequence of alcohol; it's absolutely classic and very pleasant, and if you like this sort of extreme Primitivo (which isn't for everyone) you will enjoy it very much.
88-90

Maccone Primitivo Dolce Puglia IGT 2007
This is again from vines trained in the Alberello style. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim, and has a powerful, sweet bouquet with iodine laced jammy plum fruit and some savory balsamic accents, also slight seas alt. Quite a lot to say. On the palate it's full and sweet, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have some sandalwood accents, and as the richness of the fruit fades some warmth that continues at great length, while the fruit works from underneath to provide a sweet counterpart. It's very fine, and a superb expression of Primitivo Dolce, which I would rank among the finest sweet wines in the world, bar none.
92-3

Tasted at Vinitaly: Duca Carlo Guarini

Duca Carlo Guarini is an estate in the southern half of Puglia, about half way between Lecce and Santa Maria di Leuca. They make a number of wines, primarily from autochthonous varietals, and though they do use some oak much of their production is in steel, and to be frank doesn't miss the oak at all.

In addition to wine, the estate makes all sorts of foodstuffs, from olives in brine though artichokes and more, which makes a visit -- it's quite pretty -- doubly interesting.

Duca Carlo Guarini Burdì Bianco Salento IGT 2010
Lot BB1 2011 (the first bottling of 2011)
This is a Bombino Bianco, and is brassy white with some greenish reflections. the bouquet is fresh and quite savory, with bright minerality and some greenish accents as well. Pleasant and refreshing, and impressive for a just bottled wine. On the palate it's light, and fresh, with lively mineral laced lemony fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and flows into a clean fairly crisp citrus laced finish with underlying savory accents that provide depth and continue at length. Quite pleasant in a light simple key, the sort of wine one can drink by the bucket with no ill effects, and that will go well with all sorts of summer things. Expect it to go quickly and you will want more.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Murà Sauvignon Salento IGT 2010
Lot M 1 2011
Beassy yellow with bright slightly greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with classic sauvignon aromas, though not as wild as some; it revolves more around gooseberry and lemon than the more animal notes sauvignon can reveal. Fresh, and still developing, but pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and tannins that have hints 9of artichoke greenness to them, and flow into a long warm sour lemon finish. It's pleasant in a vigorous key, and will drink well with grilled fish, including more flavorful fish such as salmon, and also be a nice accompaniment to fried fish and vegetables during the summer months.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Campodimare Salento IGT 2010
Lot CP2 2011
This is an organic wine --not the only one they make -- and by 2013 all of their wines will be certified organic. It's pale salmony rose with brilliant pink reflections. the bouquet is fresh, with mineral laced raspberry fruit supported by heather and savory accents. Fresh. On the palate it's bright, with fresh raspberry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and warmth, and by intense savory minerality that gradually emerges in the finish. Quite fresh, and peasant, and will drink nicely with picnic foods in the summer, or light dishes. Versatile and will go quickly.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Nativo Salento IGT 2009
Lot NB 1 2011
This is a Negroamaro in purezza, and is certified organic. It's deep ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense and still coming together -- it was recently bottled -- with berry fruit supported by leather, and needs time; as it opens dusky berry fruit emerges supported by some vegetal notes and balsamic accents. On the palate it's fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that are slightly splintery, and have some coffee ground bitterness to them, and it all flows into a berry fruit laced finish with some vegetable underpinning. The palate is well ahead of the nose and pleasant; it needs a few months for the nose to catch up, and will be quite pleasant with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also could be pressed into service with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.
88-90

Duca Carlo Guarini Malìa Salento IGT 2008
Lot MA 1 2011
This is Malvasia Nera; it's elegant almandine cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich slightly vegetal laced jammy red berry fruit supported by spice and some alcohol and pleasant underlying herbal notes. Impressive for a wine just bottled. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by distinctive savory accents and a pleasant mineral underpinning that carries into a long savory finish with some peppery accents. It needs another few months, but will be quite pleasant and work well with either meats or with rich legume-based dishes, along the lines of fava bean puree with chicory.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Pìutri Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008
Lot P1 2011
This is in part barriqued, for about 8 months, while the remainder aged in steel. It's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and has a fairly rich bouquet with berry fruit supported by greenish leather accents and some cedar, and also by some vegetal notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity, and by tannins that are nicely polished, and smooth, and display a slight cedary overlay that wasn't present in the non-oaked wines, flowing into a fairly long rather tart berry fruit finish with a cedar and coffee ground underpinning. It's quite elegant and also quite approachable, with the brightness of Negroamaro's acidity smoothed but not hidden by the oak. Enjoyable, and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts. A nice introduction to Negoramaro if you are new to the varietal.
88-90

Duca Carlo Guarini Vigne Vecchie Salento IGT 2008
Lot VV1 2011
This is a Primitivo; it's deep slightly almandine ruby with white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich with berry fruit mingled with orange peel and some spice, supported by a fair amount of alcohol. It's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful plum fruit supported by savory tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean warm plum finish with savory tannic underpinning and lasting tannic warmth. It's quick to write and the wine is very young, but it's pleasant and shows considerable promise; it needs a few months to get its bearings, and will then drink nicely with rich stews.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Boemondo Salento IGT 2007
Lot bo 1 2011
This is Primitivo; it's made with about 30% dried grapes, and spends a couple of years in tonneaux. It's inky pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich prune plum fruit supported by some cedar and hints of scndalwood, and by some sweetness as well. On the palate it's full and rich, with warm sweet prune fruit supported by sandalwood laced tannins and rune acidity with underlying warmth that flows into a long warm prune laced finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant; it's a wine that still coming together but already displays considerable depth and complexity, and is a wine you should think about if you like Primitivo. In addition to the standard roasts and stews, it will also work well with aged cheeses thans to the sweetness that derives from the dried grapes. Very pleasant.
90-92

Duca Carlo Guarini Ambra Passito Bianco Salento IGT 2009
Lot not on label (bottled for Vinitaly)
This is a Sauvignon. It's brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is powerful, and sweet, with some gooseberry accents and some dried white fruit, supported by quite a bit of sugar. On the palate it's rich, with powerful dried apricot fruit supported by dried apricot acidity and sweetness, which confers a rich languor to it, while there are some spicy mineral accents that gradually emerge in the finish, which is warm and very long. Quite elegant and with considerable depth, while the richness of the fruit and the sweetness are balanced well by acidity, which keeps the wine from being cloying.
90-91

Duca Carlo Guarini Rarum Passito Salento IGT 2008
Lot 1p 11
This is a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera fermented in steel (as was Ambra); it's deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and elegant, with sweet prune fruit supported by bitter chocolate of the Modicana sort and pleasant spice, also some vegetal notes and some alcohol, and some dark brown sugar. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, rich, and sweet, with full bright berry fruit supported by dusky brown sugar sweetness that confers a certain languir, while there is also deft warmth and the tannins are smooth and again cocoa laced, flowing into a long smooth finish. Very pleasant and though it needs another year to come together fully is a wine that you should definitiolay look for if you like passiti; it's very different in terms of flavor registry from the classic north Italian passito (i.e. Recioto), and well worth seeking out.
92

Want More information? Visit their site.

Angiuli Donato: Eye-Opening Wines from Gioa Del Colle and the Val D'Itria

Donato Angiuli is a small winemaker located in Gioia del Colle that we missed in the course of our trip to Puglia this fall, because he doesn't like to present his wines at gatherings for the general public. Considering that many of these gatherings draw a great many people more interested in drinking than tasting, I can understand him.

However, I'm quite happy that Enzo Scivetti introduced him to me at Vinitaly, because the wines were a revelation. Truth be told, Enzo took me to see him because of a white, rather than the reds that are the mainstay of production: Though the winery is located in Gioa Del Colle, they also have some vineyards in the Valle D'Itria, home to some of Puglia's finest white wines, and in addition to making a Verdeca, are reviving an almost forgotten grape called Maruggio, which they are producing in a sparkling version that is -- so far as I know -- unique.

It's sparkling, and though the sparkle is obtained through bottle fermentation it's not obtained by the Metodo Classico. Rather, they ferment the wine almost to completion in tank, and then bottle it, thus capturing the last of the gasses produced by the primary fermentation, and producing the sparkle. The bottles are then disgorged, topped off, and recorked, and that's it.

Sounds odd, but Donato says it's how the farmers of the area used to make a little sparkling wine, and when the university people who are studying Maruggio suggested he make it sparkle, he decided to use the old technique.

Angiuli Donato Maccone Spumante Brut
The wine is pale brassy yellow with fine perlage, and has an interesting bouquet with scents of apple juice and dried apples mingled with savory notes and sea salt. Particular, and brings to mind some of the Pecorino-based sparkling wines of the Abruzzo to mind. On the palate it's full and creamy with considerable minerality and savory accents that flow into a savory finish with, again, oxidized apple. It's very particular and a bit rustic, and is one of those wines that curious wine lovers will greatly enjoy, but that a casual wine drinker who is expecting a conventional sparkling wine will wonder at.
2 stars

Angiuli Donato Verdeca Puglia IGT 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with citric accents and some aged cheesy notes - for want of a better descriptor -- mingled with sea salt and sage. Nice balance and harmony. On the palate it's full, with rather languid brambly white berry fruit supported by clean sour Regina Claudia plum acidity that flows into a clean fairly acidic mineral finish with greenish accents. Quite pleasant in a zesty key and will work well as an aperitif with rich antipasti and finger foods, or with succulent fish.
2 stars

Having tasted the whites, we moved on to the reds. They do make a Gioia del Colle DOC, but concentrate their energies on IGT and table wines, so I started directly with the IGT:

Angiuli Maccone Primitivo Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is intense, with chewy plum fruit and plum acidity supported by gum Arabic and balsam-laced spice. On the palate it's full, sweet, and quite soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins, with underlying moderate plum acidity. It's a touch drier than I expected from the nose, but displays considerable elegance, and is one of those wines I would drink by the glass far from the table rather than with foods. It's particular, and if you like the style, which is quite traditional, you will enjoy it very much, but you have to like the style. Per intenditori, for people familiar with Gioia del Colle's Primitivo.
88-90

Angiuli Donato Maccone Rosso Vino Da Tavola
"Ottenuto dalla vinificazione in rosso d'uve nere elevate ad Alberello. Vino non Filtrato," it says on the label, which translates to "Wine obtained by the fermentation in red of black grapes from vines trained in the Alberello (i.e. bush) style. Unfiltered." The wine is from an 80-year old vineyard that yields about a thousand bottles per year. Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with plum fruit supported by alcohol and greenish spice laced with hot iron and jammy sweet accents. I can almost hear Patricia Guy saying "the real deal." Impressive, and one could swish and sniff again and again. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful sweet plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and warmth more than acidity, which flows into a long, long plum prune finish that gradually fades into lasting warmth. Very pleasant, and despite its strength /17% alcohol) is very smooth and eminently drinkable. A most impressive discovery.
92-3

Angiuli Maccone Primitivo Dolce Puglia IGT
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with plum fruit laced with blueberry jam and some alcohol, and also greenish accents, and menthol, mingled with sweetness and as it opens rich prune jam. Great depth. On the palate it's rich and quite sweet, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness and smooth sweet tannins underlain by some warmth. Quite elegant and ahs a lot to say. If you like this sort of naturally sweet red wine -- the sugar content is high enough that fermentation stops before the yeasts can consume them all -- you will enjoy it very much. And if you think you don't like sweet red wines you should try it, because it has a great deal to say. Where to drink it? Either far from the table, or with dark chocolate, or with cheeses, especially moderately intense herbal cheeses.
90

Contacting the winery: They don't so far as I know, have a site. Their address is:

Via Principe Umberto 27
70010 Adelfia (BA)
Tel 080 459 7130

Wandering Puglia: After Vinicola Savese, the Consorzio...

It was still raining when we departed Vinicola Savese, and drove to the Consorzio Produttori Vini Maestri in Primitivo (see also this page), Manduria's cooperative winery. A distinct change of pace; the structure is huge -- 400 growers confer grapes -- and as you enter, to the left you'll find the area dedicated to the sale of vini sfusi, bulk wines: People bring their own containers, which the staff behind the counter fill using pumps that rather resemble gas pumps. The wine is priced according to alcohol content -- the stronger wines are more expensive, and some of the clients tailor their purchase to their palates, asking that their containers be filled with so much of this and so much of that.

Business was brisk, and it was nice to see how many people came to buy wine while we were there.

Of course the Consorzio does much more than sell wine in bulk: They make many bottled wines, and also have a fascinating farm culture museum that is well worth a visit even for those who don't drink wine at all.

We tasted through most of the Consorzio's wines, including those sold in bulk, and also tasted the wines kindly brought by a number of other producers. It was a very nice visit. The wines:

Sereno IGT salento Bianco 2009
This is a tank sample, to be bottled in 2 weeks. The wine is an 80-20 blend of Fiano and Verdeca. It's brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is quite fresh for a barrel sample, with pleasant floral accents and considerable sweetness; a fellow taster says confected, and it's quite approachable in a sweet key. On the palate it's rich and sweet with honeydew melon mingled with citric acidity and clean very green acidity that flow into a clean melony finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods; it seems sweeter than it is and this is in part a characteristic of the Fiano. A good wine to drink as an aperitif or by the glass, and if you like fairly sweet soft whites you will like it.
1 star

Amoroso IGT Salento Rosato 2009
This is a Negroamaro, and not yet bottled. It's pale pomegranate red and pink reflections. The bouquet is candied, with bubblegum and cherry fruit supported by some herbal accents. On the palate it's ample and moderately rich, with sour berry fruit supported by bubblegum sweetness that goes into a fairly ling finish with savory accents. Fresh, young and direct.

Gioviale: this is a 2009 Vino Sfuso, or bulk wine that's 15.5% alcohol; it's sold from November through December (1000 quintali, 10,000 cases) and people line up to buy it. It's deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and jammy with cherry plum fruit that's fairly sweet. Sweet on the palate too, with prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a sweet finish. A classic strong jug wine, and quite clean, will drink well with foods but is strong.

Primitivo Secco is their primary vino sfuso, of which they make 4,000 Quintali -- 40,000 cases -- and we tasted the 2008. It's deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim, and has a fairly bright bouquet with red berry fruit and some plum mingled with deft greenish accents. On the palate it's fairly light, with clean slightly bitter prune cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean finish. It's a classic house wine, something one would expect to find by the carafe in a trattoria, and drinks quite well in a simple, direct upfront key.

Neama IGT Negroamaro 2008
Lively pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Direct, up front, and bright eyed; more swishing also reveals some sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly intense prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a slight cedary feel from grapes, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Simple, direct, and clean, an unpretentious wine that will drink quite well with foods. Perfect with a burger and you will want a second bottle.
1 star

Memoria Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is 14% alcohol; it's deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim The bouquet is moderately intense, and has prune fruit supported by dusky acidity and some graphite shaving bitterness, also leafy underbrush, and some acidity. On the palate it's ample, soft and smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight burr and some acidity, which flow into a smooth rather bitter finish. No residual sugars here, and no overextraction; it's rather vinous and correct, and will drink well with foods.
2 stars

Lirica Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This spends a time in small wood. The wine is deep pyrope with pyrope that has slight almandine accents in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by slight cedar and hints of nutmeg, and also greenish acidity with hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense prune fruit supported by savory accents and spice. Nice balance; it's fairly direct and will do a fine job of supporting what it's served with -- simple grilled meats or light stews. Nothing cloying nor overextracted about it, and it is easy to drink.
1 star

Elegia Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is aged in barriques for a time. It's impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by slight sweetness and hints of licorice. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. Direct, and will drink well with foods; it's not overly rich and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Primitivo Amabile Sfuso 2008
Another wine the Consorzio sells in bulk. Deep pyrope with purple reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with plum fruit laced with slight licorice and a fair amount of sweetness. On the palate it's sweet, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a dusky cedary burr and flow into a fairly long bitter finish that keeps the wine from being cloying. They say it's what their parents drank, and again goes to show that sweet wines were once part of the tradition. One that should, I think, be revived.

Madrigale Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is sweet, and is lively ruby with black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by licorice root and spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and bright, with cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather licorice-laced prune finish with considerable sweetness. A pleasant dessert wine.
2 stars

Madrigale Oro Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry plum fruit supported by some gum Arabic and licorice root, and a fair amount of sugar that's not quite brown, but in that direction. With time the Gum Arabic surrenders to nutmeg and some spice. On the palate it's ample and sweet with fairly rich plum fruit supported by tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a clean sweet prune finish with a distinctly greenish tannic underpinning. With respect to the straight Madrigale it's more charged, and I found it more aggressive and a little less well balanced.
1 star

After tasting the Consorzio Produttori Vini Maestri in Primitivo's wines, we tasted those of a number of other wineries, some that are well established, and others that are just getting started.

Tenuta Giuseppe Ciraci

This estate used to make table grapes, but decided to shift over to wine. This is their first vintage.

Tenuta Giuseppe Ciraci Primorosato IGT Salento
Non-vintage, but a 2009. This is their first wine. Lively salmon ruby with pomegranate accents, and brilliant electric pink highlights. It's a Negroamaro, and the bouquet is intriguing, and very young, with vegetal accents mingled with heather and menthol, also some sweetness. On the palate it's fresh and young, with sour berry fruit that has some bitter orange accents, and slight milky overtones. Very young, and needs another few months. It will drink nicely this summer.
1 star

Tenuta Giuseppe Ciraci Primorosso IGT Salento
Non-vintage, but a 2009. The wine is deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with lively very sweet cherry fruit supported by jammy mentholated accents. It gives an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's ample, with moderate sour berry fruit -- it's not as sweet as the nose suggests -- supported by clean rather bitter tannins that flow into a bitter finish. It's a bit rough around the edges, but will drink well with succulent meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Felline

Felline Rufiano Salento Bianco IGT 2008
This is a Fiano Minutolo; they call it Rufiano because Puglia doesn't allow people to use Fiano for Fiano Minutolo. This is the first vintage, from 3-year old vines. It's brilliant brassy yellow with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with candied citron with some underlying minerality. Intriguing On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich lemony fruit that has some orange accents, and flows into a long citric finish with slightly greenish tannic underpinning. It's not as tight as I might have liked, but does display a certain grace, and because of its lively acidity it will drink well with rich foods such as fried fish or grilled fish.
2 stars

Felline Sinfarosa Zinfandel 2006 Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This has some Zinfandel, cuttings of which the winemaker brought from the US in his suitcase and planted a dozen years ago. It's deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with spicy savory accents and some nutmeg mingled with prune fruit and some cedar-laced spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet oaky tannins that have a dusky burr, and by moderate acidity that lead into a fairly aggressive tart peppery finish. Pleasant, aggressive, and quite young; it will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Zicari

Tenuta Zicari Patruale Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim with purple overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents and succulent red berry fruit with slight dusky accents. Fresh. On the palate it's ample, and quite young, with fairly rich prune cherry fruit supported by some sugars and by tannins that have a peppery sparkle, and by moderate graphite shaving bitterness that becomes savory with time. Pleasant in a youthful key and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Zicari Pezza Pedrosa IGT Puglia Rosso 2006
This is 85-15 Primitivo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep black almandine with brich rim and black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by prune and some bitter underbrush. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by deft prune acidity and by some sugars, but not so many that it's cloying, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sweet dusky berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and though the Cabernet Sauvignon isn't invasive it does contribute, and the wine is quite approachable in a fairly international key.
2 stars

Azienda Mille Una

Azienda Mille Una Capitolo Laureto Negroamaro IGT 2005
Deep almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour berry fruit and warmth mingled with some vanilla and cedar. Nice balance and fairly rich in a very young key. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by slight sweetness and by tannins that are warm and cedar laced, and flow into a warm smooth finish with some jammy strawberry accents that carry at length. Quite fresh, and quite young, and will drink well with roasts or stews, though it will also age well for a number of years.
2 stars

Azienda Mille Una Tetrarante Salento IGT Primitivo 2007
17% Alcohol. It's inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with very ripe prune fruit laced with cedar shavings and licorice root; it's a brooding presence in the room. Impressive, and as it opens prune jam emerges too. A great lot going on. On the palate it's full, with rich plum prune fruit supported by alcohol, which confers sweetness, and by some residual sugar that adds softness and jaminess, and by tannins that have a cedary feel to them that brings coffee and cola to mind, and flow into a long sweet prune finish. It's impressive in a very charged, concentrated key, a huge wine that will take no quarter: Either you will like it or you will find it over the top. A fellow taster says, "Lush is fine in certain circumstances."
2 stars

Vetrere

Vetrere Taranta Salento Rosato IGT 2008
This is a blend of Negramaro and Malvasia, and is dusky pink -- not quite red enough for pomegranate -- with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some licorice root, and by some underlying sweetness. On the palate it's softer than I might have expected, with bubble-gum laced red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some tannins that flow into a clean slightly green sweetish fruit laced finish.
1 star

Vetrere Cre Salento Fiano IGT 2008
This is a Fiano Minutolo. It's brassy gold with golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite aromatic, with strong mentholated greenish spicy notes that bring Brylcreem to mind Interesting, and particular. On the palate it's soft and fairly sweet with mentholated lemon fruit supported by sweetness and moderate acidity that flow into a rather soft finish. I'd have liked more tightness to it.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Macchiarola

Az ag Macchiarola Uno di Noi Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
This is a new winery, and the vineyard (6 ha) is from 2005. This is their second vintage. In steel. Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm prune cherry fruit supported by leafy underbrush and some cedar-laced spice from grapes. Quite pleasant, in a youthful key, with pleasant complexity. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by peppery tannins from grape, that flow into a clean peppery fruit laced tannic finish. A nice expression of Primitivo, and though the vines are young it has quite a bit to say. Future vintages will be quite interesting, especially if they continue along this oakless path.
2 stars

Cantine Capuzzimati

Cantine Capuzzimati Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007
14.5% Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with cherry prune fruit supported by dusky leafy underbrush and some cedar, and hints of licorice root. Quite young. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by dusky bitter graphite shavings and some spice, Deft, and young, and still developing, Nice depth, though it is a tad aggressive in its youth; this is in a tasting situation, and the aggressiveness will vanish by a steak. If you like wines that have a bitter cast you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Vigne e Vini

Vigne e Vini Schiaccianoci Negoramaro IGT 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by underbrush and dried leaves, which opens to reveal some greenish accents and hints of orange skin. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with plum cherry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly cedar-laced finish. I found it a bit oaky, even though we were told it only spends a few months in oak.
1 star

Vigne e Vini Moi Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with dusky black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is powerful, and smoky, with considerable pungency and some cedar, but not that much fruit, and the oak is overshadowing everything. The palate reflects the nose; it's rich and fruit driven but has a lot of oak that somewhat blunts it.
1 star

Antiche Terre del Salento

Their vineyards are pruned in the Alberello, or shrub style, and are 60-70 years old. Until 2004 they were part of the Cantina Sociale, of which they were founding members.

Antiche Terre del Salento Feudo del Conte Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and purple cherry rim. This spends several months in wood, and has a bouquet with powerful smoky cedar and underlying prune fruit; the cedar covers the fruit at present, though there must be quite a bit for some to manage to emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by milky acidity and by cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean prune finish. Pleasant though it's quite young, and needs another year or two, and -- for me -- the wood is rather invasive. If you like the style you will like it very much.
2 stars

Antiche Terre del Salento Cerva Regia Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine cherry rim. The bouquet is impressive, and quite rich, with cherry prune fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents with hints of licorice and rubber that are laced with jammy accents. On the palate it's full and smooth with bright prune fruit supported by deft prune acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight leafy underpinning and flow into a long warm finish. Quite pleasant, in a rather feisty key, and will work very well with red meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age nicely for 5-10 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cantine Soloperto
This was the first estate to bottle Primitivo di Manduria.

Cantine Soloporto Rubinum Primitivo di Manduria 2008
This is 17% alcohol, and is semi-secco, with 7 g/liter of sugar. It's impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and black almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by plums and hints of cumin and gum Arabic. Interesting and still very young. On the palate it's full, and fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by plum acidity and peppery tannins that flow into a peppery prune finish with some underlying sweetness, Pleasant, but needs another year or two; at present it's in mid stride, and despite the alcohol content and concentration it isn't there yet.
2 stars

Giovanni Soloperto Petrose N.1 Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
This is with indigenous yeasts, and they also put some stems in the tank because they liked them. This is the first vintage for this vineyard. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and impressive, with jammy plum fruit supported by clean vegetal accents and pleasant spice, laced with some licorice root and hints of cumin. Great depth. On the palate it's drier than one might have expected, with warm licorice laced prune fruit supported by warmth and sweet slight green tannins that have a youthful burr and flow into a clean frankly bitter finish. Impressive in an extreme key; it's very much a niche wine, and if you like the style -- it's very aggressive -- you will like it. But you have to like the style, and it takes no quarter.
2 stars

Cantine Attanasio

Attanasio Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable cedar and some jammy prune fruit laced with bitter cocoa and some spice, and underlying sweetness. A fair amount going on in a warm spicy key. On the palate it's rich, with ample prune fruit supported by prune laced acidity and tannins that have a slight cedar laced burr and are fairly splintery and dry. The finish is fairly long, with plum accents and lasting warmth. Pleasant in a very rich style, though it will profit from another year or two. By comparison with many other Primitivi, this has enough concentration to stand up to the wood.
2 stars

Attanasio Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with prune fruit laced with licorice and some spice, and has some jammy accents. On the palate it's full and rich, with prune cherry fruit supported by clean sweet acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that clean fresh prune finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sip, with a great lot to say. Impressive.
88-90

Cantine Le Fabbriche

Le Fabbriche Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and some cedar overlaying prune fruit and some savory accents. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with prune cherry fruit supported by moderate bitter prune acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish. It's quite young, and I'd have liked a little more depth to it -- she said some of the vineyards are quite young, and this has an impact upon the wine, which comes across as thinner than it will in a few years, when the vineyards have more time under their belts.
1 star

Le Fabbriche Emmaus AP Aglianico Puglia IGT 2005
This is from a selection of Aglianico; it's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar-laced berry fruit and some underbrush that are supported by smoky notes. Lots of oak. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a warm tannic finish. Quite pleasant, but very young, and needs another 2-3 years to come together. Also, the vineyards are quite young, and it has great potential for the future. In short, a wine to keep an eye out for, and to look for future vintages of.
2 stars


Alessandro Carrozzo
They have 10 hectares, and started to bottle in 2001. Before then they sold the wine in bulk.

Alessandro Carrozzo Carminio Rosso IGT 2007
This is a Negroamaro, from 70 year-old vines trained in the Alberello style. Lively almandine ruby black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with lively sweet prune cherry fruit supported by jammy accents and some peppery spice with underlying minerality. Quite pleasant, On the palate it's full and rich, with vinous cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish licorice accents, and is supported by clean spicy tannins with warm peppery mineral accents and some underlying green licorice that flows into a clean mineral finish with tart berry fruit. Bracingly alive, and will drink very, very well with grilled meats or roasts, and will also be nice with game. It also has the capacity to age well for many years. Beautiful harmony and very pleasant to drink.
88-90

Alessandtro Carrozzo Krasi Primitivo del Salento IGT 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry violet rim. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with mineral laced prune fruit that has some jammy accents and prune jam, and hints of nutmeg as well. Great finesse. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet prune fruit supported by some sweetness, minerality, and dusky bitterness that provides direction and keeps it on its toes. Pleasant, and very nice; it will drink very well with drier meats, for example roast pork loin. A beautiful, rather languid expression of Primitivo, well worth seeking out.
2 stars

L'Astore Masseria

The Benegiamo family has owned the Masseria since 1930. They have 14 hectares of new vineyards around the Masseria, in addition to 6 hectares of vineyards trained in the Alberello style in other parts of the province of Lecce. They get their white grapes from growers in Alberobello.

L'Astore Masseria Filimei Negroamaro IGT Salento 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some brambly underbrush and delicate spice from grapes, also some alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a lively rather zesty key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews. Harmonious too, and a nice balance between fruit, acidity, and tannins. All the pieces are well in place. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

L'Astore Masseria Jèma Primitivo Salento IGT 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with prune fruit supported by delicate slightly bitter floral accents and some cedar from grapes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich bright prune cherry fruit supported by fairly rich acidity, and dusky tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness and flow into a savory, peppery tannic finish. It's slightly lacking in fruit, and as a result the tannins step in a little more than I might have liked, doing a good job, but in an angry sort of way. This in a tasting situation; it is a food wine that must be served with foods, and in the face of a hearty venison stew the music would be different. But it is aggressive, a little too aggressive for me.
1 star

Wandering Puglia: Vittorio Pichierri and Vinicola Savese

The next day of our Puglia trip started in the rain, which is standard in the winter, and to be honest I wasn't as impressed as I should have been at the first sight of our first stop, Vinicola Savese: The winery is decidedly ramshackle, because Vittorio Pichierri, who was there to greet us, and the rest of the family care little for appearances, and -- I discovered -- prefer to devote all of their energy to what's growing in the vineyards and aging in the tanks. A sound philosophy all winemakers should follow, but it somehow doesn't always work out that way.

In any case, Vinicola Savese is something of an institution and always has been; 30 years ago when people mentioned Primitivo their name came up, as did the town of Sava, and the Cantina Sociale -- Manduria proved sharper from a commercial standpoint, affixing the grape name to its appellation, Primitivo di Manduria, but the quality in the region at the time was more centered around Sava.

Vittorio's winemaking is strictly traditional from the vineyard on; they used to source grapes from farmers who trained their vines in the traditional Alberello style, but now only grow their own. He ferments in cement-lined tanks, because he finds that they work well. He doesn't employ temperature control as such; during fermentation he puts his hand on the steel door of the tank, and if it feels too hot does something to correct the situation. Other than that, he pumps the wine over the cap by hand 3-4 times per day, and when he decides it's ready, racks it off the lees and into underground tanks where it slowly continues to ferment until Christmas, at which point the alcohol content of the strongest wines is about 18%.

He has tried fermenting with cultured yeasts, but didn't care for the results, and therefore returned to the yeasts naturally present on the skins of the grapes.

Vinicola Savese makes a number of Primitivi:

• Primitivo IGT, which is about 14% alcohol
• Primitivo DOC, which is 15-16% alcohol
• Primitivo Dolce, which is about 18% alcohol, with sufficient residual sugars to reach 20, if it fermented to dryness

After this brief introduction, we began to taste, and it was an eye-opening experience: Vinicola Savese's wines are completely unlike anything else we have tasted on this trip. For me, they set the standard for Primitivo, and though they are stylistically quite different, I found affinities with the Barolo of Bartolo Mascarello and the Brunello of Gianfranco Soldera: they display a crystalline purity that is extremely rare in wines.

Vinicola Savese Primitivo Del Salento Novantino IGT 2009
This is 13% alcohol, and is a beautiful violet that stains the glass. Pleasant bouquet with brandied cherries and some graphite mingled with underbrush. Quite fresh. On the palate it's full, rich, and sweet, with powerful warm sour cherry fruit supported by clean slightly green sweet tannins that flow into a sweet brandied cherry finish with greenish accents and warmth. Beautiful opulent fruit and very fresh, a wine that has a lot to say and will go quickly. Exciting!
88

A tank sample from one of their underground tanks, which will become Terre Rosse 2009:
14.5% alcohol. Poured pyrope ink that's not cloudy, but not transparent either, earthy aromas, leafy underbrush with vegetal accents and some gunflint. A different animal. The palate is full and rich with greenish prune-cherry fruit supported by young zesty tannins that have a warm dry splintery burr and flow into a quick prune finish. A work in progress, and an impressive one too.

A tank sample of the 2007 Terre Rosse:
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. 2 years in tank have settled out much of the sediment, and it is crystalline. Elegant smoky nose with some gunflint and minerality mingled with elegant prune berry fruit. Great depth. On the palate it's rich, with clean fairly sweet prune fruit supported by tannins that are big, and still splintery, but have begun to smooth, and flow into a plum prune finish with some sweetness. "The real deal," says a fellow taster, and she's right.

Vinicola Savese Terre Rosse Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
Deep black cherry with almandine highlights and black reflections. The bouquet is elegant, with brandied prunes mingled with licorice root and green leather. Beautiful harmony in a youthful key, and many facets, a wine that has a great deal to say. On the palate it's full, with bright dusky cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm slightly balsamic finish. A beautiful wine that despite its richness has no overt residual sugars to cloy the palate, and is -- again -- the real deal. Impressive, and I hated to pour it out of my glass.
90

Vinicola Savese Tradizione del Nonno Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2006
This is 16% alcohol and is more traditional -- grandpa's wine. It's elegant ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with sweetness and prunes mingled with nutmeg, and it gives an impression of being in mid stride. Not quite a draft, but it's still developing and has a ways to go. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful sweet plum fruit supported by brisk acidity that keeps the sweetness from being cloying, and by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish accents and flow into a long slightly green prune finish with tannic underpinning. A child, but a beautiful child, who has years yet to go.
90-92

Vinicola Savese Desiderium Primitivo Tarantino IGT 2006
16.5%, bottled in 2008. This could be a DOC Manduria, but they prefer to keep it separate. It's deep black almandine with some paler - but not orange - almandine in the rim. Powerful bouquet with prune fruit laced with licorice root and spice, and sweetness that is in part alcohol. Great harmony and beautiful to sniff. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful prune fruit that starts out sweet and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have slight nutmeg overtones, and flow into a completely unexpected bright plum cherry finish with lively acidity that cleans the palate beautifully, preparing the way for another sip. And another. Most impressive, and what it is all about; it is also very young, and will age beautifully for many years.
92-4

Vinicola Savese Il Sava Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2004
This is 16% alcohol, with 3% residual sugars. Deep black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with prune berry fruit supported by spice and savory accents, and some underbrush. Beautiful and great harmony; as it opens green licorice also emerges as do dried figs, chocolate and all sorts of other things. Extraordinary evolution in the glass. On the palate it's beautiful, with rich sweet spicy prune fruit laced with cherries, chocolate, spice, and more, and supported by massive silky tannins and lively acidity that flows into a long clean finish. A fellow taster says, "wowie zowie," something I won't say myself but am happy to quote.
94-5

The tanks sample of the 2008 vintage of this wine is also very impressive.

Vinicola Savese Passione Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2003
This spent a few months in barriques. It is 17% alcohol, plus 3-5% sugars, and is deep almandine with brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with slight pungency and wood smoke mingled with rich dark brown sugar sweetness, candied fruit, spice, licorice, and nut-stuffed figs. Extraordinary. On the palate it's full and rich, with brilliant sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dark brown sugar sweetness and brilliant acidity that keeps it from being at all cloying, One could go on, and on, but the word "superlative" comes to mind, and fellow English speaking tasters are saying "wow" and "amazing." Extraordinary elegance, finesse, and harmony.
95-6

While we were tasting Enzo Civetti, one of the organizers of the trip, was chipping the sealing wax from the neck of an old bottle:

Vino Classico Primitivo Savese 1975
Impenetrable almandine with brownish rim. The bouquet is amazing (yes, I finally use that word in a tasting note); as Enzo was decanting it it smelled of candied cherries and dark rich chocolate, and that's the beginning. Extraordinary harmony and there's also cinnamon, honey, dates, delicate tobacco, cherry liqueur, hints of white truffle, brown sugar, and it just keeps on going. Superlative; we're on another planet. On the palate it's creamy, and extraordinarily fresh, a caresse on the tongue with beautiful cherry strawberry fruit supported by clean dark brown sugar sweetness with some spice, hints of licorice, and acidity - such acidity! - that keeps things firmly in line, and fresh and youthful. Astounding; it's one of the finest wines it has ever been my fortune to taste, and any score I gave it would be insufficient.

We finished with Vittorio climbing up under the eves to remove the cap of a Capasone, a 5-foot tall glazed amphora that was filled more than 20 years ago, and whose label has long since fallen off. The wine within is deep brownish almandine with brown almandine rim. Dark and very rich, like velvet. The bouquet is beautiful, with dried fruit and prunes mingled with nutmeg and plump raisins and dark brown sugar and licorice root, while there is deft almost mineral acidity to keep it on its toes. I could continue as it opens, but it would take pages. On the palate it's silky, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by spice and dried fruit, and also by brown sugar sweetness and bright berry fruit acidity that keeps it on its toes. Extraordinary harmony, and a truly great wine that will age indefinitely. Rich, powerful, and so much more. A revelation.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Cantele

Cantele is one of the estates I visited in the course of my trip to Puglia this fall, and when I came upon their stand after a tasting of Puglian Rosés held this spring at Vinitaly, I was quite happy to taste through their new vintages. To be quite frank, the wines speak for themselves:

Cantele Alticelli Fiano Salento IGT 2009 Pale brassy white wirth brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with clean heather and some candied tropical fruit. Hot vintage key. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with clean bright tropical fruit, a mixture of mango and some pineapple acidity supported by pineapple acidity that flows into a clean bright finish Pleasant and will be a nice aperitif or with simple fish dishes.
2 stars

Cantele Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT 2009 Lively rose with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with berry fruit and some almonds and spice. Still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with clean berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by slightly languid light tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. A pleasant, direct Rosato that will be nice at a cookout or with simple grilled fish or meats.
1 star

Cantele Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008 Deep brick ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is po9werful, with considerable spice mingled with sandalwood and red berry fruit. Fairly aggressive. On the palate it's light, with clean bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour slightly bitter finish with some underbrush accents and leathery tannins. Pleasant, and is a fine food wine that will work well with grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly.
2 star

Cantele Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2007 This is 85-15 Negoramaro-Malvasia Nera blend, and of the 24 months of required aging prior to release, 6 are spent in barriques. Deep cherry ruby with dusky almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with berry fruit mingled with sandalwood spice and some cedar, and also brambly acidity. Nice balance, and very young. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity and tannins that are a bit splintery, and flow into a clean rather brambly finish. It's not a wine to drink by the glass far from the table, but will work very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats and light stews, and will also be nice with traditional Puglian vegetarian foods, for example fava bean puree with refried greens. Quite versatile, in a food pairing key. Will also age nicely, becoming silky with time.
2 stars

Canteli Alticelli IGT Puglia 2007 This is an Aglianico: Deep brick ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with clean prune cherry fruit supported by leather and pronounced underbrush and also some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour berry fruit supported by leathery tannins and clean mineral acidity that flow into a fairly bright tannic finish with mineral accents and some bitterness. Quite pleasant and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also will work well with grilled meats. I would expect it to age wel for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Cantele Teresa Manara IGT Salento 2007 This is a Negroamaro from vineyards pruned in the traditional Alberello, or shrub style. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still very young, but reveals some berry fruit supported by sandalwood and spice. A work in progress. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sandalwood spice and warmth, and by clean berry fruit acidity while the tannins are smooth and sweet, with slight sandalwood accents. Very nice, and when the nose catches up to the palate (a year at least) it will be impressive. And will age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out to set aside.
88-90

Cantele Amativo Salento IGT 2007 This is a blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still quite young, with an initial rush of cedar mingled with berry fruit and some acidity. Needs time. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. A nice blend of the two varietals, with Negroamaro conferring acidity and brightness, while the Primitivo confers a rich very pleasant roundness. While both are capable of reaching great heights, the sum is also capable of being greater than the parts, and the wine is extremely pleasant. It will also work very well at table, with grilled meats including fattier cuts such as ribs, or with hearty roasts. It's very young, and needs time, but will work well with foods even now, and will also go quickly at table despite being a substantial wine. The score reflects the present.
2 stars

Last thing: Cantele has a fine blog with much more than wine, and if you read Italian you should check it out. Even if you don't, the pictures are pretty.

Wandering Puglia: Gioia del Colle DOC

My trip to Puglia, continued: It was late afternoon, and cold and windy by the time we arrived at the Distilleria Cassano in Gioia del Colle. Not to taste distillates -- the Cassano family ceased operations years ago and donated the structure, which is quite beautiful, to the town, which is now transforming it into an exhibition area -- but rather the wines of the Gioia del Colle Appellation, and more specifically Primitivo.

Why Primitivo? Because the varietal is said to have first been identified in Gioia del Colle, towards the end of the 1700s, by Francesco Indellicati, a parish priest who went into a vineyard, selected a vine whose grapes ripened early, calling it Primativo because of this characteristic, and planted cuttings it at Liponti, a hamlet in the township of Gioia del Colle.

The farmers working with the varietal quickly realized that in addition to ripening early, Primitivo starts its vegetative cycle much later than most other varietals. Considering Goia del Colle's location, in the heart of the Tavoliere delle Puglie (the high plains that form Puglia's backbone, which often suffer devastating late spring frosts), this characteristic was just as important as early ripening, as it meant that the vines were much less vulnerable than others. Primitivo rapidly spread throughout the highlands, becoming one of Puglia's most important grapes.

But what is Primitivo? Obviously, since Francesco Indellicati selected it from an extant vineyard, it had been growing there for a while, and some have gone so far as to suggest that its name, Primitivo, also refers to its being the original grape. This is of course an exaggeration, and now researchers from America (drawn to Primitivo because of its close resemblance to Zinfandel) and elsewhere have concluded that Primitivo (and Zinfandel) derive from an obscure Croatian grape called Crljenak Kaštelanski. Since Croatia boasts several close relatives to Crljenak Kaštelanski, whereas Puglia's Primitivo lacks close relatives, it is likely that someone, centuries ago, brought cuttings of Crljenak Kaštelanski to Puglia and planted them, discovering that they were much better suited to Puglia's climate and soils than they were to Croatia's.

And this brings us to the wines. As I said, Primitivo ripens early; the harvest is generally in early September, and the resultant wines tend to be powerful. Inky purple is a common color, while the fruit balance tends towards lush chewy ripe prune and dried prune, with underlying sweetness, and moderately intense smooth soft tannins. Acidities tend to be low, and one would expect this given the ripeness achieved by the grapes.

These are Puglian grapes that ripen under the fierce Puglian sun, and sugar contents -- and therefore alcohol levels -- tend to be high; 14-15% is quite normal, and those who aim for more concentration and greater ripeness can reach 18%. This in wines that are dry, and to be frank I found myself preferring the less alcoholic wines to the 18% crowd, which I found rather strident. Oak use varies from producer to producer; some use large wood and steel, and other small oak. I personally prefer steel and large oak because they have less impact upon both fruit and acidity. I find small oak to be more likely to overshadow the nuances of the grape, and to add polish that is really not necessary, especially if the grapes are harvested quite ripe, with lower initial acidities.

There is also something called Primitivo Dolce, which ferments to 18% alcohol, at which point the yeasts give up, but retains sufficient residual sugar to be semi-sweet to sweet. These can be quite nice, as sugar and (richer) fruit remain in play, balancing the alcohol. Sipping wines, something to be savored the way one might a Recioto or a Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito, and something to look into, if you like this style. These sweeter wines also have the capacity to age quite well, for a decade or more.

The Wines, Tasted on November 30, 2009

Azienda Agricola Fatalone
Fatalone Bianco Spinomarino Puglia IGT Greco
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral with some hints of gunflint and tart slightly sour citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by some minerality and gunflint bitterness that flow into a long warm bitter tart finish that becomes more savory in the finish. Pleasant, in a zesty key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish. If you like smoother more international wines it won't work as well for you, but I rather enjoyed it. Nice scrappy character.
2 stars

Fatalone Gioia del Colle DOC Primitivo 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leather and wood smoke mingled with slight balsamic notes and some cherry fruit. A bit rustic, but pleasant in this key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm spicy, almost petillant burr, and flow into a clean decidedly bitter finish that becomes savory as it fades. It's a bit rustic, but if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats.
2 stars

Vini Coppi
Coppi Siniscalco Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, more swishing brings up balsamic notes and some wet leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dusky acidity and tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a rather green savory finish. It's a little tired, though not quite oxidized.
1 star

Cantine Lanzolla
Cantine Lanzolla Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by some cedar and a certain airiness that brings sweetness to mind. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have an angry smoky burr, and flow into a bitter cedar laced finish. It's quite aggressive, but if you like the style, which is fairly rustic, will work very well with succulent roasts or stews.
2 stars

Tenuta Patruno Perniola
Battaglio Primitivo Rosso Puglia IGT 2007
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some cherry plum fruit and moderate spice. On the palate it's ample, and quite savory, with fruit that's overshadowed by oak to a considerable degree, said oak emerges as coffee laced with vanilla, and carries on at length. Too much oak on what was a good base, I think.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit laced with balsam and wood smoke, with some cedar as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a distinct smoky overlay and some acidity, and flow into a smoky finish. It's quite charged, and there is ample raw material, but it is to a degree masked by wood.
1 star

Bioagricola Marchesana Rosso dei Primati IGT 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with not much fruit. The palate is pleasant in a rather wild key, with strong savory minerality and cedar laced tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish with some hazelnut overtones. It's a touch over the top for me.
1 star

Cantine di Scj'o
Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with red name, 13.5% alcohol. Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and berry fruit acidity. Nice depth. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have slight cedary accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a graceful rather cheeky key, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Scj'o Primitivo IGT Puglia 2008
Black label with white name, 14.5% alcohol. Impenetrable pyrope with purplish garnet rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with plum fruit laced with some greenish accents and hints of marzipan; it comes across as being charged. On the palate it's, well, flabby: there's ample soft rather sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have an angry smoky burr and flow into a smoky finish. Something odd happened and it is like a fat man who has slipped and is sitting in a puddle: Yes, it makes a splash, but something is off.
1 star

Cantine del Colle
Cantine del Colle Falco Grillaio Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of alcohol and some warmth, and spice as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite savory, with quite a bit of cedar as well, which overshadows most everything.

Cantine del Colle Gioa del Colle Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable alcohol and moderate fruit supported by some minerality and wet leaves, and some cedar. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by quite a bit of alcoholic warmth and with tannins that have a deft cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a slightly more rustic key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Giuliani Raffaele
Giuliani Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2004
Impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky spice and some graphite shavings; it has a brooding quality to it that I rather enjoy, and also hints of licorice root. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by smoky tannins and wood smoke acidity that flow into a long balsamic finish with wood smoke and hints of animal hair blended into the fruit. Quite elegant, and will work very wellw ith succulent meats.
2 stars

Giuliani 1922 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
This is a sweet Pirmitivo; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweet cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice balance, and invites repeated sniffs; with more sniffs some vegetal accents and green peppers also emerge. On the palate it's full, and sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish that combines sweetness with savory accents. Pleasant, though I found it to be a little short; it's a wine that will drink very well with cheeses or that one could simply sip with friends.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cannito
Cannito Scudo Sannita Gioia del Colle DOC Rosso 2007
This is a blend of Pimitivo, Negroamaro and Montepulciano; it's poured pyrope ink with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit laced with cumin and spice, and some cedar as well. Nice balance and harmonious. On the palate it's full, with rather dry berry fruit supported by smoky acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean cedary finish that becomes decidedly savory as the fruit fades. Pleasant if you like the style, which is a bit rustic, and fresh; it will drink well with succulent meats or light stews.
2 stars

Cannito Drùmon Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black brick rim. The bouquet is alcoholic with a fair amount of wood smoke and a degree of cedar as well, mingled with wet leaves and some balsam. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality but not much fruit supported by smoky acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It comes across as trying very hard, but falls short. If it tried less hard I think it would be more successful.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Plantamura
Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Deep black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and leafy underbrush mingled with plum fruit and some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that have a smooth sweet underpinning and flow into a clean fresh finish with savory underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Plantamura Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and alcohol mingled with wood smoke and slight menthol. It's not as fresh as the base. On the palate it's ample, and hot, with soft sweet plum berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr and flow into a warm sweet plum berry fruit finish with underlying balsamic notes. I found it more tired than the 2007, and more settled too. It tries hard to be a big wine, and this is not a good thing.
1 star

Cantine Guttarolo
Guttarolo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intriguing, with leathery plum cherry fruit supported by wood smoke and hints of honeycomb mingled with warmth and spice. Pleasant, and invites another sniff. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet dusky tannins that flow into a clean sweet fruit laced peppery finish, and though it may sound strange overtones works well in a charged, very ripe key. If you like the style, you will enjoy it, and I found it growing upon me. A quite successful extreme ripening, and a very interesting wine.
86-8**

Pietraventosa
Pietraventosa Allegoria Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with brick rim that has some almandine. The bouquet is smoky, with cherry plum fruit and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with mentholated spice and some wet green leather. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate berry fruit acidity; it's harmonious and quite pleasant to drink, though given its power I would pair it with foods rather than drink it by itself. What foods? A hearty stew, or a succulent roast.
2 stars

Pietraventosa Ossimoro Murgia IGT 2005
This is a blend of Primitivo and Aglianico. It's impenetrable pyrope with brick rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with wood smoke and plum fruit supported by some menthol and hints of cumin seed, and also some hazelnut, with some underbrush as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright warm sour berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm rather balsamic finish with leathery accents. It0s interesting, and pleasant in a key far far removed from Merlot; it will drink well with roasts or stews and is worth seeking out if you like this style.
2 stars

Cantine Ferri Purpurius Primitivo Puglia IGT 2008
Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is pleasant for a tank sample, with delicate prune fruit laced with floral accents. Pleasant, and also sweet, with a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full and quite sweet -- almost brings a recioto to mind in terms of sweetness, and with prune fruit to provide backing. It has yet to develop, and we shall see. If it continues as is, it's going to be off the chart, and very particular. Good too, and worth seeking out if you like the style.

Polvanera
Polvanera 16 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2005
This is strong, 16%, because that's what the sunlight brings. The wine is deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with spice and some mentholated accents, and hints of green leather as well. Also sweetness that is at least in part alcohol. On the palate it's ample and ricvh, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm savory overlay and flow into a long warm finish; there is also some balsamic acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. It's a massive wine, and as such particular -- a whole swath of people will find it too much -- but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and it will do interesting things as it ages too.
2 stars

Polvanera 17 Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
This is even stronger, 16.5%, and is from a different vineyard that gets even more sun. The wine is impenetrable pyrope with purple rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft prune fruit supported by hints of menthol and spice, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, with underlying jammy accents. Quite harmonious, and interesting to sniff. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some balsamic overtones and flow into a warm cherry balsamic finish with lasting warmth and cedar laced tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, in a massive and over the top key; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but -- as was the case with 16 -- you'll have to like charged sweet alcoholic wines to like it.
2 stars


Chiaromonte
Chiaromonte Muro Sant'Angelo Primitivo Gioia del Colle DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wood smoke and alcohol mingled with slight minerality and wet leather, and, if one concentrates, some prune. Interesting. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and by cedar laced tannins that flow into lasting warmth. It comes across as trying too hard, and I found myself wishing it had more depth to the fruit, which is rather angry and, thanks to the tannins, hot.
1 star

Chiaromonte Primitovo Gioia del Colle DOC Riserva 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit laced with cumin and cedar, and supported by wood smoke and some leathery accents, with quite a bit of nose tingling acidity and alcohol. Alcohol of the mind-bending variety; the wine is 18% and dry. On the palate it's quite charged, and unbalanced, with moderate fruit that is overshadowed by angry cedary tannins and tremendous warmth that lasts and lasts. It's like something out of a circus sideshow: interesting, perhaps, but in a way that brings a shudder and is not pleasant to drink. At least for me; I found it to be too much.
1 star

Winding down, thanks again to the fine folks at Radici for organizing our trip, and the Comune of Gioia del Colle and the Gioia del Colle DOC Consozio for putting together the tasting, which I very much enjoyed, and learned much from.