Tasted at Vinitaly: Commendator Burlotto

As I have noted before, I usually finish Vinitaly with a visit to Commndator Burlotto, and I did so once again this year, finding Fabio and Marina still talking, though they were thinking about beginning to pack up -- this year the final day of Vinitaly finished at 6, and things were still hopping at 5:30.

So I began to taste and chat, and by the time we were finished the announcers had stopped telling everyone that the Fair was over, and to come back again next year :-/


Commendator Burlotto Elatis Vino Rosato 2011
E112
Pale rose petal pink with brilliant pinkish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh with fairly bright forest berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and some greenish vegetal accents with a fair amount of heather. Refreshing; a fellow taster also finds sweetish ginger root. On the palate it's bright, fresh, and fairly sweet, with delicate flinty tannins that flow into a fairly rich slightly greenish finish. Pleasant in a more voluptuous key than usual, and will be a pleasant summer wine.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Viridis langhe Sauvignon 2011
Lot VLS112
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is quite varietal, with rich gooseberry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice with some chalk dust as well. Quite fresh and still coming together. On the palate it's rich, with bright gooseberry fruit supported by warm sour gooseberry/tart loquat acidity and a slight peppery tang that flow into a warm greenish finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well with grilled or roasted fish, and be pleasant with fried fish or meats too.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Dives Langhe Sauvignon 2010
Lot LDLS111
Brassy white with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish notes and some spice mingled with gooseberry and sweaty blonde, which is a consistent marker for this wine. Pleasant, though it does bring to mind a certain Springsteen song (though he was talking about redheads). On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly powerful loquat fruit supported by loquat acidity laced with slight lemon, and supported by the burr that loquats can have, flowing into a long tart finish. Pleasant to drink and will work well with fish or white meats, including fried fish.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga 2010
Lot VP 211
Pale ruby with black reflections and brilliant ruby highlights. The bouquet is intense and spicy with wild flowers mingled with sandalwood and red berry fruit, and savory accents and slight cedar, with mace and nutmeg as well. An explosion in a spice shop! And absolutely typical of the varietal. On the palate it's mg, with lively spicy berry fruit supported by warm sour cherry raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a smooth spicy burr and flow into a warm savory berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and will be very nice in the summer months, and also into fall.
88-90

Commendator Burlotto Dolcetto D'Alba 2010
Lot DA111
Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by almond blossoms and warm peppery notes, and by hints of underbrush and underlying spice. On the palate it's bright, with fresh moderately intense berry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and tannins that are a little darker and more splintery than they have been in some years; it's a bit more brooding. It will work quite well with grilled meats or light roasts.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Barbera D'Alba 2010
Lot BA 111
Deep lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with tart berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and some bitter accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour strawberry raspberry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and slightly flinty notes, while the tannins are smooth and it flows into a fairly long tart strawberry finish. It's a little firmer than other vintages have been, but is quite pleasant and will work very well with rich foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Aves barbera D'Alba 2010
Lot LBAA 111
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by spicy notes and some cedar, and by some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some flinty minerality, and by tannins that are warm and have a slight dusky cedary overlay, and flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Powerful, and a nice expression of a harder vintage; it's not as bright as some but will work quite well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Mores Langhe DOC 2009
Lot ML111
This is a 50-50 blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera that ferment together. It's lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. and pink rim. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit supported by some cedar and slight rosa canina, and by a greenish underpinning; it's quite fresh and displays considerable verve. And is also young. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and tightly woven, flowing into a bright fairly tannic finish. A nice balance between the varietals, and though it does need a year to meld, it will be quite nice with red meats. Something to set aside (briefly) and enjoy.
90

Commendator Burlotto Freisa Langhe DOC 2010
Lot FL 111
Lively cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich berry fruit laced with rosa canina and some cumin seed spice, and also slight peppery accents, and some gunflint with a fair amount of alcohol as well. More charged and firm than some vintages. On the palate it's fresh, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm spicy slightly greenish burr with licorice root accents, and flow into a fairly long licorice and berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, in a powerful zesty key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews. Welcoming on the palate!
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Langhe Nebbiolo 2010
Lot LN 111
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rosa canina supported by red berry fruit and some cherry strawberry acidity, and by clean spice. Pleasant to sniff, in a slightly less expansive key than in some vintages. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit accents and acidity that has some orange to it, and flows into a clean bright tannic finish that has some youthful splinteriness to it. Pleasant in a light zesty key and will be very nice with roasts and grilled meats, and if you wanted to be extravagant a burger with good beef and a great cheese would be perfect. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Barolo 2008
Lot L.BR111
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant rosa canina and floral accents mingled with spice and berry fruit; it's classic young Barolo, and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with powerful elegant cherry fruit supported by rosa canina and delicate strawberry orange acidity that flows into a long clean bright spicy finish with a deft tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, though very young, and needs another 2-3 years to come together. One could drink it now but it will reward those with patience.
90

Commendator Burlotto Acclivi Barolo 2008
Lot BRA 111
Lively almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with powerful slightly peppery fruit supported by considerable spice and pleasant underlying rosa canina. Quite young, but promises very well. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with bright fresh cherry fruit supported by moderate strawberry acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly peppery burr. Pleasant, and though it is quite young one could drink it, one would be forcing things to do so. I'd give it 3-5 years and then enjoy it with a hearty stew.
2 stars

Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Monvigliero Barolo 2008
Lot BRM 111
Almandine with brilliant almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with rich rosa canina laced with nutmeg and spice, and moderate berry fruit that is still working through what it wants to be when it grows up. Quite elegant, and welcoming, but also quite clearly in mid stride,. On the palate it's full and very smooth with ripe rich fruit supported by spicy tannins that have that nutmeg imprint, and by sour berry fruit acidity that has some hints of orange to it and flows into a long spicy berry fruit finish. Beautiful but a toddler; it's a wine that needs 3-5 years and will be worth waiting for.
90-91

Commendator Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi Barolo 2008
Lot BRC 111
Lively almandine with brilliant almandine ruby reflections and bright almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by nutmeg laced spice and some peppery accents, and by slight vegetal notes. Pleasant, and rich, but doesn't have the grace of the Monvigliero at present, and may be somewhat broader shouldered in the future. It is now. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with brilliant berry fruit supported by tannins that have some nutmeg and mace spice, and hints of rosa canina to them, and by bright rather mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral tannc finish. It's very young, younger even than the Monvigliero, and to say which will do what in the future is a bit of a crapshoot; the Cannubi is more muscular, whereas the Monvigliero is more graceful, and we will see what happens in the future. Because both wines need time.
90

Garantito Igp - Barolo Vigna La Rosa Vertical: 2007-2004-1999-1996-1982 and 1967

This time Luciano takes the stand:



It's not often that one can combine the technical requirements of a tasting with drinking pleasure. Quite the contrary, it's ever rarer due to conflicting appointments, the press of time, and the anxieties of wanting to know. But it does occasionally happen. For example, if we find ourselves in a historic estate, Fontanafredda in Serralunga, enjoying a pleasant evening seated around a table with a dear friend, Monica Tavella, a dynamic winemaker such as Danilo Drocco, and a few Promising Youths, for example Carlo Macchi, Kyle Phillips, and Pasquale Porcelli.

There we were, after tasting the latest Mirafiore wines in Oscar Farinetti's avant-garde tasting room, in the dining room of the villa, enjoying a classic Piemontese meal: a cold chopped antipasto, a hot antipasto, agnoletti al plin with the sauce from a roast, meat, and dessert. And during the hours we enjoyed, we chatted of this and that, of icy harvests, of plans for the future, and as we sipped an unexpected Barolo vertical developed, leaving us with no choice but to accept Barolo's immortality.

You understand: We're at Fontanafredda, our base for the IGP in Langa Tastings. A hundred hectares of vineyards, planted in 1878 by King Vittorio Emanuele for his Bella Rosin, then property of the Monte dei Paschi Bank for 72 years, and since 2008 one of Oscar Farinetti's jewels.

We never tire of repeating it, This Is How Great Wines Should Be Tasted: Giving to them at least some of the time they gave us by enjoying them, with food, and if possible while talking with those who know them. It's a humanist tasting, one in which the notes taken, while indispensable, are only the key with which to gain access to the spirit in the glass, and, more importantly, to the spirit of the land and those who lived on it.

I always make this comparison: the aristocracies of Piemonte, Tuscany and the Veneto maintained solid ties to the land, investing and promoting innovations, whereas the Neapolitan aristocracy consumed their estates in the construction of palaces designed to rival those of the King. One of the reasons for the Neapolitan's defeat and ultimate collapse may be this differing approach to agriculture. Cavour and Ricasoli thought about wine, while Nicotera made pacts with the Mob to govern Naples after the fall of the Bourbons.

And this echoes down the paths of history, weighing upon the blameless generations that followed. More than to be or to have, the anthropological and psychological dichotomy is that which sets production and consumption in opposition.

2007 - We begin with a vintage I detest, because it brings me back to the concentrated fruity style of the 90s, which continues to do great damage in regions such as Calabria, Sicily and Puglia. It's not a deft vintage, even when a winemaker as good as Danilo does his best to maintain elegance, and succeeds in preserving freshness. The wine is perfect, and almost ready. Now, and that's the rub.

2004 - We step back three years; Monte Dei Paschi was still on the scene, though Danilo's hand was already on the wines. Our negative Kantian prejudice flips to positive when 4 replaces 7. A vintage that's always great and climbing, no matter the wine: From Barolo to Taurasi, passing through Gaglioppo, Amarone and Brunello. Intense, fresh, ample, dynamic, I'd almost say it's my favorite.

1999 - The vintage we all agree on: winemakers, enologists, wine lovers: a fullness of expression that began in the vineyard and ends in the glass. I won't talk to you about the wine's integrity after 12 years, because with Barolo it's what one expects. The nose still has considerable fruit and a nice spicy cast, while the attack on the palate is unhesitating, and perfectly balanced, with all the components at a very high level; the freshness is no longer distinct, but very long, and sustains it all. A long, intense, persistent finish that sends ripe cherry fruit up to the nose.

1996 - Here the audience is divides. Neither Carlo nor Pasquale find it exciting, whereas Kyle and I like it. Its strongpoint is certainly its acidity, which takes power in a leaner context, but the wine is on its toes and dynamic, without the least sign of failure; it opens with authority and closes cleanly. With respect to the 1999 and the 2004 it lacks complexity, and is thus considerably less seductive.

1982 - We're before the methanol scandal. A vintage justly considered great, and the quality of the wine emerges clearly. I mention integrity because I must, but know that in doing so I'll pass for a schoolboy: the nose is dominated by mature aromas, leather, ash, wood toast, but also wild and brandied cherries, hints of licorice, very pleasant rhubarb. Excellent acidity that is slightly separate from the wine, finesse, and delightful drinkability for and exciting, satisfying wine.

1967 - At this point Danilo, caught up in the moment, said the unexpected: "I want to taste the 1967 with you." Good, think I; when I was 10 I didn't drink, so here's an opportunity to make up for lost time. An excellent vintage according to the official Barolo vintage classification, and called "Convincing" by Giancarlo Montaldo in his summary la Langhian history for those drinking today. The wine is indeed perfectly fresh, no slippage after 44 years, nor sediments; the color is brilliant and lively, perhaps a little deeper than usual. The mature nose displays flashes of fruit; it's supported by alcohol, close to 14%, and by vibrant acidity. A drinkable Barolo, worlds apart from the styles in vogue in the 90s, and precisely because of this it displays an irresistible allure.

http://www.fontanafredda.it

Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

A Discovery at Vinitaly: Amalia Cascina in Langa

Amalia Cascina in Langa is a new (the first vintage in 2007) winery in Monforte, which Marco Sodini -- a fellow Pellegrino Artusiano -- introduced me to, and I have to thank him. The estate, which is centered around a Cascina, or farm house, was bought a few years ago by Luigi Boffa, who restructured the place, building a very functional cellar. His son Paolo makes the wines, under the direction of Gian Franco Cordero and Gian Piero Romana (consulting winemaker and agronomist, respectively), and though the Boffa family is new to winemaking, they are doing something right. Lots of things, actually.

Amalia Sant'Anna Dolcetto d'Alba 2009
Intense pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is classic Dolcetto with berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and floral accents with some underlying jammy notes. What one expects of a Dolcetto. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly sour berry fruit supported by violets and bitter almonds, and tannins that are slightly splintery and flow into a clean fairly long tannic finish with violets and fruit. Quite pleasant, in a rich and friendly cast, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also hearty pasta dishes.
2 stars

Amalia Barbera D'Alba 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by savory accents and cedar, and by some greenish warmth. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. The wood is less apparent on the palate than the nose, though it does contribute nicely to the tannic structure, and the wine is pleasant in a middle of the road key. It will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Amalia Sogno Langhe Rosso 2008 This is a blend of Cabernet and Barbera; they decided to go with Cabernet because they had the opportunity. They make about a thousand bottles, and the proportions vary from year to year. This vintage is 90% Cabernet. It's deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rather varietal, with red berry fruit supported by classic grilled green pepper and by pleasant underlying spice,with while there are also some jammy accents to it. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit, a mix of sour cherry and some forest berry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity that is the contribution from Barbera, and supported by very smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish overlay and flow into a long warm fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats, from a crown roast through leg of lamb. It will also age nicely for 5 or more years, though the brightness of the acidity at present is quite pleasant.
88-90

Amalia Langhe Nebbiolo 2009
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rosa canina and red berry fruit supported by deft bramble and hints of sandalwood spice; it's a fine expression of Nebbiolo. On the palate it's bright and rich, with elegant sour cherry fruit laced with raspberries and supported by bright berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are warm and slightly splintery, flowing into a clean rather savory tannic finish with lasting raspberry warmth. Quite pleasant and very fresh, a wine that will work well with read meats and light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. A pleasant discovery that will drink very fast.
90-91

Amalia Barolo 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with ith quite a bit of cedar and some red berry fruit supported by chemical notes and spice. It's still very closed,a nd really doesn't want to be disturbed. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense warm sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are rather angry, with a decidedly peppery burr that continues at length into the finish, settling gradually into lasting warmth. It reflects the vintage, with a green aggressiveness to the tannins, and it needs a number of years for things to fold in. In the wine's defense this was their first vintage, and they were very much getting a feel for things when they made the wines.
1 star
Amalia Barolo 2007
Cask sample
The bouquet is muted, which can happen in a barrel samle, but reveals berry fruit and slight cedar. On the palate it's another animal with respect to the 2006, with richer cherry fruit and tannins that are much sweeter and softer, and though they do have a youthful burr they aren't aggressive, and don't have any of the angry peppery spice that the 06 displays. Quite promising and will be an elegant Barolo in a few year's time, in a middle of the road key that will be worth looking out for.

Want to know more? Their Site.

A picture for the day, and Tasted at Vinitaly: Aurelio Settimo

To begin, the picture: Not from Vinitaly, but rather from (if I remember right) Alba Wines. In any case, Pin, a wonderful guy and an excellent sommellier, pouring a covered bottle for us to taste.

Returning to Aurelio Settimo, I look forward to seeing Tiziana at Vinitaly every year -- despite the hubub that surrounds her stand, the wines invite concentration and reflection, and strange as it may seem give me an opportunity to (briefly) get away from it all.

This year they also offered an opportunity for reflection, because she was pouring not just the most recent (2007) Barolo, but th 2006 as well, and also a couple of older vintages. Long term readers know that I had my doubts about the 2006 vintage when it was released, and though I am not as drastic now, I continue to think that it's a difficult vintage that will require considerable time to emerge. When it does it will be very nice, and therefore unless you absolutely must drink it now, set it aside and (if you like young Barolo) enjoy the 2007 vintage, which is readier.


Aurelio Settimo Dolcetto D'Alba 2009
Lot A 11
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with considerable sour berry fruit acidity and clean spice with pleasant bitter almonds as well, and some alcohol too. Quite elegant and very fresh. On the palate it's bright, and rather tannic, with rich sour cherry fruit laced with violets nd supported by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. A classic food wine that will work very well with grilled meats or light roasts, and go quite quickly, supporting what it's served with.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo Langhe Nebbiolo 2006
Lot F10
Elegant almandine with brilliant reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is elegant, though grudging -- it doesn't want to reveal itself -- with rosa canina and sour berry fruit supported by alcohol and some spice with slight hints of leather and leaf tobacco, and a savory underpinning. On the palate it's elegant, with deft sour cherry fruit supported by hints of roses and savory notes, and by tannins that have an angry peppery burr and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's graceful, but still hampered by the tannins, which continue to be rather angry and need more time; this said one could drink it now, and enjoy it considerably, but one would need a succulent cut of meat with some fat to balance the tannins, say leg of lamb or even lamb chops -- including fried lamb chops. I would expect it to age well for close to a decade more.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo Barolo 2005
Lot A09
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to an orange nail. The bouquet is quite pleasant, with some rosa canina and pleasant spice, with leather and leaf tobacco and underlying berry fruit that's not too intense; it gives the impression of being from a cooler vintage but is quite graceful. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and smooth with some greenish vegetal accents that are again indicative of a cooler vintage, and it flows into a clean bright tannic finish with lasting warmth. Graceful in a lesser vintage key, and very much alive; it will drink well now with grilled meats or hearty roasts, but also has considerable aging potential, nd will become pleasantly ethereal with time.
88-90

Aurelio Settimo Barolo 2006
Lot B10
Pale almandine with brilliant reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate rosa canina supported by tart berry fruit and some greenish accents with quite a bit of alcohol and some leaf tobacco. It's still quite young, and needs time, but is developing nicely. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit on the outset that is still interrupted by a rush of angry peppery tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. The tannins are green and rather strident, and the wine needs time to work its way through them, at present it's like a person in a tizzy who REALLY WANTS TO BE LEFT ALONE. If you must drink a bottle now, I would serve it with a succulent, fairly well done leg of lamb or a crown roast, cooked medium rare and sliced thick. But given the choice I would let it sit for at least 5 years, because it has nice potential that has yet to emerge.
2 stars

Aurelio Settimo Barolo 2007
Lot B11
Elegant almandine with brilliant black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with red berry fruit supported by savory notes and fairly rich berry fruit acidity, while there is also alcohol and there are hints of rosa canina. Very young, but promising. On the palate it's a distinct step up from the 2006, with rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by sweet smooth tannins that have a slight vegetal underpinning but are already fairly smooth, and flow into a long clean bright finish with deft tannic underpinning. Very nice, and though woefully young is already drinkable; if you must it would be nice with a steak, but it will richly reward you if you have the patience to give it time.
91-2

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo 2005
Lot G08
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with leaf tobacco and some spice supported by acidity and some berry fruit; there's also some leather and a degree of minerality, while there isn't too much fruit. Cooler vintage. On the palate it's elegant, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean sour cherry finish with a brambly warm tannic underpinning. It's more graceful than the base, but again clearly from a cooler vintage, and in this context quite graceful and has a great deal to say.
90-91

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Dell'Annunziata Barolo 2007
Lot LC11
Elegant almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with ripe berry fruit supported by peppery spice and some leaf tobacco, with hints of Risa Canina too. It's quite elegant but at the outset of a long journey. On the palate it's rich, with elegant sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long clean fresh berry fruit finish with savory tannic underpinning. It's quite elegant, but extremely young and needs time to get together; by comparison with the 2007 base it's a bit further behind now but will I think surpass it handily with time. A wine to set aside.
90

Aurelio Settimo Riserva Rocche Barolo 2004
Elegant almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is eye opening, along the lines of a religious experience, with leaf tobacco and spice supporting rosa canina and some smoky noes, with berry fruit as well. It's very young but already beautiful and clearly still coming together. On the palate it's beautiful with rich leathery fruit supported by savory berry fruit acidity and sweet tannins that have slightest hazelnut bitterness and flow into a long warm berry fruit finish; it's quite quick to write, but extraordinarily elegant, and will do beautiful things with time. Most impressive.
93-4

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo 2000
Tiziana finds the 2007 to have many similarities with the 2000 when it was young, and therefore brought a bottle of it that I found some of in my glass. It's elegant almandine with black reflections and almandine rim, and has a rich bouquet with rosa canina and leaf tobacco supported by berry fruit and brandied cherries, and deft spice; there's rare harmony and rather than pick aromas as they emerge it's a wine that's fun to simply contemplate. On the palate it's rich and elegant, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and supple, and flow into a clean savory berry fruit finish; it's again quick to write but extremely harmonious, and one of those wines that captures the attention. Most impressive, and if you're lucky enough to have 2 bottles, keep one for a looooong time.
95

Marchesi di Barolo: A General Tasting

Marchesi di Barolo was one of the first wineries I visited in Piemonte, in the late 1990s. It's one of the oldest Piemontese wineries, and also one of the more influential -- the cellars trace their origins to Marchesa Falletti, who with her husband, in the early-mid1800s, played a decisive role in developing the wine we now know as Barolo. When the family became extinct with her death in 1864, the Pia Opera Barolo continued her work. In 1895 Pietro Abbona bought the cellars in town, and the vineyards, and the winery is now run by his descendants.

If you happen to visit Barolo, I heartily recommend a visit to the winery headquarters, in the middle of town. They're located over the Marchesa's cellars, which still contain some of her botti -- beautifully carved works of art -- while both Ernesto Abbona and his wife Anna are extremely pleasant and gracious hosts.

The Wines

Marchesi di Barolo Madonna di Como Dolcetto D'Alba 2006
Lot12.07.109S.
Deep violet ruby with violet rim; the body is poured ink. The bouquet is rich, with clean violets shot through with bitter almonds and jammy berry fruit. Quite charged, and also very pleasant to sniff -- freshness in a glass. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, and pleasing underlying bitterness that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's quite fresh, and will drink very well with pasta dishes, though I think it will be better with simple grilled meats -- perfect for a cookout -- and also with light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you could get used to it.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Dolcetto D'Alba Boschetti 2006
Lot 07.07.1054
This is the next-to-last vintage of this wine: The vineyard is well suited to Nebbiolo, and therefore after the 2007 harvest they ripped out the Dolcetto, and in a few years we will have another cru of Barolo from this spot.

The wine is poured pyrope ink with violet rim, and has a rich bouquet with violets and jammy berry fruit laced with hints of sandalwood and some graphite bitterness with underlying cocoa. Very charged, and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by clean bright mineral acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish with considerable fruit underpinning; with respect to the Madonna di Como it's more graceful but also more powerful, and less bitter. In other words it's more voluptuous, and voluptuous in a more successful way than many charged Dolcetti tend to be -- there's none of the forcing one sometimes encounters -- and to be honest it's a pity that it's going. It's not for every day, but is quite nice, and is smooth enough that one could drink it by the glass.
2 stars

Ruvei Barbera D'Alba 2006
Lot 12.07.1084
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is bright, and rich, with clean fresh chewy plum berry fruit supported by some violets and deft greenish spice that have slight hints of balsam, and a pleasing underpinning of acidity that doesn't stand out, but whose absence would be felt. Harmonious. On the palate it's rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by moderately intense soft tannins, what one expects from a Barbera, and it all flows into a clean fairly tart finish with (again) lively fruit underpinning. Graceful and eminently approachable; it's a wine one could drink by the glass but that will also work very well with all sorts of foods, from pasta dishes through grilled meats and light stews, and will go very, very fast. People visiting Marchesi di Barolo tend to latch onto it, and it's difficult to fault them. But you will need a second bottle.
88-90

Paiagal Barbera D'Alba 2005
Lot 03.07.1006
Inky pyrope ruby with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by clean cedar and spice with some graphite shaving bitterness; it's elegant but also muted, and this is in part the vintage -- some of the 2005 Barbaresco and Roero I have tasted have the same feel to them. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich cherry plum finish. Quite nice, though I found myself preferring the Ruvei because the vintage is simply superior, and the winemaker can only do so much in the face of Mother Nature. This said, it will drink quite well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Michet Nebbiolo D'Alba 2006
Lot 03.08.1114
Lively almandine ruby with pleasing almandine rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with clean rosa canina mingled with red berry fruit and underlying slightly greenish spice from grape. Quite pleasant, and welcoming. On the palate it's bright and rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean deft slightly sour cherry acidity, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish burr to them and flow into a clean bitter finish with pleasant fruit. Quite nice, in a deft and approachable key, and will drink very well with all manner of foods; it would be perfect with grilled chicken with the skin, for example. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Creja Barbaresco 2005
Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with bright slightly brambly berry fruit supported by cedar and some greenish accents with underlying nose tingling spice. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean fruit laced finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, and rather graceful, and will drink well with succulent grilled meats or light stews; it also has the capacity to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Cannubi Barolo 2004
Cannubi is one of the finest vineyards in the Barolo appellation -- about 40 hectares -- and Marchesi Di Barolo owns about a quarter of it. Deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is powerful, with berry fruit mingled with some berry fruit jam and pleasing spice, and also underlying rosa canina that is beginning to emerge, balanced by some hardwood ash. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful red berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into along clean fruit laced finish with some savory notes as well. It's quite young, and still getting its bearings. With time it will go places.
2 stars

Marchesi Di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina mingled with some cedar and deft greenish spice, and supported by underlying cherry fruit and brash acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by clean acidity that's mineral at the outset, but becomes more fruit based as it develops, and by tannins that are still very young, and lay a clean tannic wash over the palate (which interferes with the fruit), gradually fading into fruit laced warmth. It's woefully young, and though it does display considerable potential it also needs time-- at present it's a toddler having a bad day. In short, give it at least 2 years, and perhaps more, by which point it will be much more interesting than it is now, and it will also age nicely for a decade further at least. By comparison with the Cannubi it is considerably less mature, and while one could drink the Cannubi now, I wouldn't think of opening the Sarmassa before 2010. In its favor, it has considerable potential.
2 stars

Marchesi Di Barolo Barolo Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is deft, with elegant rosa canina mingling with green leather and some spice, and while this is quick to write, as it opens it's a delight to sniff. And still quite young; it obviously has a long ways to go. On the palate it's rich, with clean cherry fruit that gains direction from spicy berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth tannins that do display a slight peppery burr, and flow into a fairly long clean berry fruit finish with some leathery overtones. It's on the move, and when it reaches its destination (in 3-5 years) will have great depth, but we aren't there yet. One could drink it now with a succulent porterhouse steak, but I think it will be worth waiting for, and if one is truly blessed with patience 2021 would be a good time to open it.
88-90

Marchesi di Barolo's Site

Rivetto dal 1902: A Barolo Vertical Going Way Back

Rivetto, as its name implies, was founded in 1902, by Enrico Rivetto's great grandfather. In the course of this year's Alba Wines they very kindly offered us a vertical going back, well, not quite that far, but quite far enough.

We began with some wines from the 1960s, which were macerated for months -- they racked them off the skins before Christmas. Now, by way of comparison, maceration is much less, on the order of 2 weeks.

The 60s vintages we tasted were similar, but the yields were quite different. The 61 produced much more than either the 64 or the 67, and as a result it was considered a better vintage than the others.

The Wines:

Rivetto Dal 1902 Barolo 1961
Moroccan leather with orange rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory accents and warmth mingled with tanned leather and some leaf tobacco, and pleasing brown-sugar-laced spice. Quite nice. On the palate it's ample, with rich brown sugar laced acidity that supports dried prune and carob fruit, while the tannins are very smooth, with a slight burr. Bright, and quite rich, and will drink well with foods. Great depth and intensity, and a pleasure to drink. To be honest it's old to score, though if pressed I would say 88-91.

Rivetto Dal 1902 Barolo 1964
Almandine with pale brownish green rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with pleasant spice and some acidity mingled with some plum fruit and hints of carob, and elegant well-aged saddle leather mingled with some brown sugar -- residual sugars from the fermentation and elegant slightly greenish spice as well. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and silky smooth tannins that flow into a warm clean fairly tart finish that lasts and lasts. Beautiful interaction between savory accents and acidity, with some sweetness as well -- a great pleasure to drink, and is one of those wines that is best far from the table. Scoring doesn't make much sense with a wine this old, but if pressed I'd say 91-2.

Rivetto Dal 1902 Barolo 1967
This is the first year Enrico's father made the wine wine -- a dry vintage with very low yields, and as a result the production was extremely limited. They waited 10 years to drink it because of its aggressiveness. Pale almandine brown with almandine and orangeish reflections and rim. The bouquet is elegant, with brandied berry fruit mingled with spice and hints of brown sugar, all supported by deft acidity and well aged saddle leather. A great lot going on, and it is one of the wines that one can have a long conversation with. On the palate it's rich, with clean bright berry fruit supported by warmth and brown sugar sweetness -- some residual sugars here -- while there is still brisk acidity to hold it up, and the tannins are very smooth, silky even, and it flows into an intriguingly sweet finish. Beautiful wine, and one of those one can converse for days with. A score? About 90.

Rivetto Dal 1902 Barolo 1978
Enrico was born this year. Now it's brownish almandine with almandine in the rim; it's slightly cloudy too. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol supported by acidity and old saddle leather with leaf tobacco and underlying underbrush. On the palate it's ample, with clean rich sour berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a very long warm finish. Great elegance, and though it's not a wine I would drink with non-wineloving friends far from the table -- a bit too aggressive for that -- it will be spellbinding with a steak or a roast.
90-91

Up until 1978 they harvested in late October, before the Day of the Dead (Nov. 1). In 1983 Enrico's father recalls returning with the grapes, in their baskets, covered by several inches of snow.

A big leap forward:

Rivetto Dal 1902 Barolo 1995
This was on the heels of three bad vintages, and was therefore greeted with considerable enthusiasm and rated higher than it might have been had it not followed 92and 93. It's garnet with some arrange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mature, with Moroccan leather and leaf tobacco mingled with underbrush and mentholated spice with some sweetness as well. Interesting. On the palate it's full, with rich slightly brandied cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean warm tart finish with some sugary notes too. Quite nice, and clearly draws much more from the grape and larger wood (as opposed to barriques) than the 2001; it displays considerable depth, and will work very well with foods, though one could also sip it with friends.
90-91

Rivetto Dal 1902 Leon Barolo 2001 Riserva
This was aged for 5 years. Almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with spice and some goudron. It's in mid-stride and seems annoyed at being disturbed; with more swishing and concentration (on my part) some green leather and berry fruit also emerges. But the alcohol is very much present. On the palate it's full, and again quite angry, with bright alcohol and angry wood-laced tannins that have a considerable peppery burr and lead into a long warm peppery finish. It's a bit over the top, and though not overextracted with regards to fruit, I find the wood use to be excessive, at least at this stage. Personal preference, but I don't think it's anywhere near ready to drink -- it needs at least 5 years, and will age well for many, many more. The score reflects the present.
2 stars

Fred, a fellow journalist, says that these are more mineral and less fruity than some other older wines that he has had. However, from 1995 back he finds a common thread, and I would tend to agree. The 2001 is a step in a different direction.

In any case, they are all wines that work best with foods, and are not particularly easy. In short, wines to serve wineloving friends.

Want To Know More About Rivetto? Their Website.

Barolo: An Extraordinary Look Back Through the Years

There's a reason people have always called Barolo Il Re dei Vini e il Vino dei Re, the King of Wines and the Wine of Kings: when carefully made it displays unparalleled finesse coupled with a capacity to age that only a few other wines can match. 1996, 1990, 1985, 1978, 1971, 1964, 1958, 1947…

The problem is finding these vintages; few people have cellars that stretch that far back, and even fewer are willing to part with their much loved wines.

So when Andrea Cappelli called me to say he and Gianfranco Soldera were organizing a dinner featuring Barolos ranging from 1978 to 1931, and would I come, I eagerly accepted the invitation. With wines this old it would have been too much to expect them to all be from the same producer, and I actually prefer it so, because they offered us a look at how a number of people worked, including Elvio Cogno, Bartolo Mascarello, Giuseppe Mascarello, Giacomo Conterno, Luigi Pira, and Giacomo Borgogno.


The wines, in the order they were poured:

Marcarini Barolo 1971
This was made by Elvio Cogno, with grapes from the Brunate vineyard. It's pale almandine with ruby rim. Rich, delicate bouquet with dried flowers and warm raw savory accents mingled with spice from grapes and clean, well polished, well oiled saddle leather. Great depth, and it's like listening to a sonata . On the palate it's full, with rich, slightly leathery savory cherry and dried plum fruit supported by tannins that are deft and smooth, with a clean burr that flows into a long deft finish with mentholated overtones. Great depth, and something to remember for years and years.

With time, it becomes more ethereal, gaining in depth, while the fruit also emerges more fully. With more time -- 2 hours -- I also begin to find rhubarb in the nose.
96-7

E Pira e Figli Barolo 1971
This is from the Comune of Barolo, and, according to the estate's website, Luigi Pira was the last winemaker to eschew all machinery, working by hand and pressing his grapes by foot. In other words, this is a true window into the past, and -- alas -- a brief one, because after his premature demise, his sisters sold the estate to the Boschis family, which introduced machinery.

Luigi Pira's 1971 Barolo is elegant almandine with almandine rim; it looks younger than it is. The bouquet is clean, with beautiful Moroccan leather and savory accents mingled with dried flowers and some dried red berry fruit and prunes. Quite elegant. On the palate it's delightful, with rich clean bright berry fruit supported by clean slightly leathery acidity and very nice smooth tannins that flow into a long clean bright finish. Terrific depth and a beautiful wine to enjoy.

With time, kerosene and dried flowers emerge from the nose, while the palate reveals more dried fruit - plum/prune - mingled with leather, and then it settles, but on an even keel, while dried roses emerge. Interesting!
90

Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo 1978
Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is quite rich, with spice, a mixture of green leather and well polished saddle leather, clean savory accents, dried flowers, and hints of truffle. Very nice, young, and with great depth. On the palate it's rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and smooth velvety tannins that have deft slightly leathery accents and flow into a clean bitter berry fruit finish. Extraordinary depth, in a key that is still young enough that it's almost a sin to drink it now -- we're not quite talking infanticide, but it is very, very fresh, and nobody would guess that it's already thirty years old. This said, because of its relative youth it is the most immediate of the wines we tasted.

With time, some kerosene emerges on the nose, laced with dried roses that gradually take precedence. In short, it evolves and grows beautifully in the glass. Last note: A fellow taster found marzipan, which I didn't.
94

Giacomo Conterno Barolo 1967
This is from Monforte and Serralunga, and is deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more mature than the others tasted so far, with delicate spice, leather, dried flowers, and hints of marzipan with underlying dried plums. Deft, controlled elegance; it's very fine, with a great lot going on, and rather haunting too. On the palate it's rich, and very fresh, with slightly dry leathery berry fruit that has some brandied accents and is supported by deft acidity, leathery again, that flows with the aid of velvety tannins into a clean savory finish. It's one of those wines one spends one's time sipping and enjoying, and forgets to take notes about.

With time it simply gets better, gaining in richness on both nose and palate.
94-5

Bartolo Mascarello Barolo Riserva 1958
This is from an unlabeled magnum (actually, 1.9 liter bottle with a tag; see photo), and is almandine with an almandine rim. Rich bouquet with powerful leathery accents and leaf tobacco supported by clean minerality and spice, with some underlying dried raisins. Extraordinary grace. On the palate it's rich and deft, with clean bright mineral laced berry fruit supported by graceful acidity and spellbinding tannins . Absolutely beautiful, the stuff of dreams, and one of the finest wines it has ever been my fortune to taste.

With time, it remains spellbinding.
97-8

Giacomo Borgogno e Figli Barolo Riserva 1931
The label says this is from "Antichi Vigneti Propri" - Old personally owned vineyards (as opposed to the vineyards of suppliers), that it's 13.5% alcohol, and also says to serve it at 20-22 C (68-72 F), while there's a sticker that says "Riserva Speciale Medaglia D'Oro Concorso Vini di Regime" (Gold Medal at the Vini di Regime competition), the regime being Benito Mussolini's.

Brownish almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with plum jam mingled with warmth and savory accents, and some brandied berry fruit as well as brown sugar laced with oatmeal. Beautiful, and very much alive, and it's incredible to think that it's older than either of my parents; concentration on my part reveals very slight hints of oxidation, which in no way detract from the impressiveness of the wine. On the palate it's rich, with clean fairly bright plum fruit supported by deft balsamic acidity and clean bitter accents, while the tannins are still present and smooth too. Bartolo Mascarello's wine is superior from a strictly technical standpoint, but this pulls at the heartstrings, and is an astonishing testament to Piemontese winemaking. I confess to finishing it rather than letting it sit in the glass, but Gianfranco Soldera, who showed more restraint, went on at length about its harmony.
93-4

Bottom Line: This was one of the most impressive tastings it has been my fortune to attend, and fully confirms Barolo's title, King of Wines.

One very important thing to note is that all of these wines predate the so-called Enological revolution that ushered in the New Style of winemaking in Langa (softer, smoother, fruitier Barolo that is much closer to being ready to drink upon release). In other words, these wines were bitingly tannic when they were released, and only reached their present depth and finesse through decades of aging. If one were to decide to lay the groundwork for a similar tasting in 2040, one would have to select wines made by those who are now called traditionalists, because the new-style, softer smoother Barolos simply won't hold for that long.

My thoughts about the innovative and traditional schools of Piemontese winemaking, and why I much prefer the traditional.

Last thing: The dinner was at the Ristorante Silene, a very fine restaurant on the slopes of Monte Amiata. As such it's a bit out of the way, but well worth a journey if you happen to be in southern Tuscany.

2005 Roero and Barbaresco and 2004 Barolo: Preliminary Thoughts

Last week was Alba Wines, the annual Barolo, Barbaresco and Roero presentation. A few quick thoughts about the vintages:

Roero was the 2005, and presented us with little to go on, because the appellation has just achieved DOCG status, and many producers have decided to hold off until next year when they can put fascette (the pink or green -- depending upon the color of the wine -- paper strips affixed to the necks of DOCG bottles) on their bottles. In all there were 11 Roero samples ranging in style from fairly traditional to decidedly modern. Some were good and others less so, but I'd want more samples before I tried to conclude much about the vintage because the variations could producer-related.

We had more than 50 2005 Barbareschi, and this is a sufficient number to draw some conclusions. I came away with the impression that 2005 in Piemonte was similar to 2005 in Tuscany: a chiazze di leopardo, in other words like a leopard's spots, with location having a much greater impact on quality than it does in some years.

In particular, though I did find some good wines from the Communes of Barbaresco and Neive, many were lacking in fruit and acidity, with oak stepping in to provide direction, fullness and structure in a way that wouldn't be necessary in a richer vintage, and I found myself wondering if the conditions had been as cool and wet in these two communes during the summer of 2005 as they were in my neck of Chianti. As is often the case under these sorts of conditions, producers who tried to make Important Wines (including many top producers who are usually quite dependable) were less successful than those who accepted the hand Nature dealt them and made wines in a lesser-vintage key.

Conditions were better, I think, in the Commune of Treiso. At least the wines were better, with richer fruit and more pleasant acidities that allowed the wood to settle back into the supporting rule that it should play. I confess to feeling quite relieved by the better quality of the Treiso wines, and several colleagues I talked with said the same thing.

Bottom line for the 2005 Barbaresco: It's a vintage to be approached with caution, and the provenance of the wine is much more important than it was, for example, in 2004.

2004 brings us to Barolo.
In one word, impressive, and I found wines worthy of note in all the Communes of the appellation. As was the case with Barbaresco, there were considerable differences from Commune to Commune. The wines of Barolo, which often stumble with respect to the others, were quite nice this time, with lively aggressive wines blessed with considerable acidity, and while they were very unsettled last week, they have the legs to age quite well and do very interesting things with time. I was also pleasantly impressed by the wines of both Verduno and Novello.

The wines of Castilgione Falletto were (I thought) a bit weaker, and there was less that really grabbed and held my interest, though we are to a degree picking nits here.

Monforte also showed less well, with wines that seemed somewhat unsettled, and while this may mean greater power that needs more time to come together, it could also mean that the weather wasn't quite as nice.

Serralunga was also a bit of a surprise for me; the Commune is known for producing the most powerful Barolo, but there were a fair number of wines that were softer, riper and less acidic than I might have expected of a young Barolo, and since 2004 wasn't a vintage plagued by overripening, I can only conclude that this soft ripeness is a conscious stylistic decision on the part of the winemakers. One that I don't agree with, because though the wines are approachable now, I wonder how long they will age and how they will develop given their softness and relatively low acidities.

Finally, La Morra showed very well, especially the wines from L'Annunziata, a vineyard-draped hollow below La Morra. Wines to think about, seek out, and set aside.

Bottom line: I don't often give 90 points at a vintage presentation, especially not to wines that are very young and not really ready yet (if I give a toddler 93 now, what do I give it when it has improved markedly, coming into glorious adulthood a few years from now -- 102?), but I found a number of 2004 Barolos worth 90 points or above already, and with time many of these wines will be spellbinding. A memorable vintage indeed, well worth seeking out, I think many of the wines will age well for decades.