Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva il Poggio: A Vertical

The 1962 In the Glass

This year marks the 50th anniversary of Fabrizio Bianchi's decision to try something that at the time was a radical innovation for Chianti Classico: Making a wine from a single vineyard. It was Chianti Classico's first, and is from the vineyard that still yields the cuttings for all of Castello di Monsanto's other vineyards.

Not that one would necessarily recognize the Il Poggio vineyard if one were to go back in time: It was 2.8 hectares then (as opposed to the current 5), but more importantly it was a vigneto promiscuo, farmed according to the old tenant farmer tradition that dictated one plant other crops between the rows of vines, and olive and fruit trees too.

But the grapes were good, and Fabrizio therefore fermented them according to local custom, which dictated one throw the bunches, stems and all, into chestnut vats -- he admits to having had doubts, because his relatives in Piemonte did things differently, but did things the Tuscan way, with punch-downs and pumpovers, and also included the white grapes traditionally used. The aging was for 4 years in large (30 hectoliter) chestnut casks because that's what they had, and the results were good, good enough that he decided to continue, and one of the things he did was replant the vineayrd just to vine.

He also began to innovate; by 1968 he had stopped fermenting whole bunches with their stems, was fermenting (with punchdowns and pumpovers) in temperature controlled steel, and had also decided to work only with the red grapes of the blend, primarily Sangiovese, with about 10% Canaiolo and some Colorino. Aging was still for 4 years, in chestnut casks.

But he was thinking about that too, and by the time 1974 rolled around was just pumping over in the fermentation tanks, and had decided to age the wine in 50 hectoliter Slavonian oak casks, for a little less -- 3 1/2 years.

And so things continued through 1979, 1985, and 1988. More innovation with the 1995 vintage, however; 40% of the wine aged in barriques and the remainder in 50 hectoliter Slavonian oak casks, all for 18 months, and then spent another 6 months in cask after assembly.

Barriques made further headway in 1999, when the wine was entirely barrique aged, in a mixture of new and used barriques, and rested in steel for 3 months after assembly. Things stayed the same in 2001, while in the 2008 vintage we finished with, the wine was aged in a mixture of barriques and tonneaux.

The Wines, tasted June 30 2012 

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1962
Brownish garnet with Moroccan leather reflections and rim, which pales to orange. The bouquet is powerful, and though clearly mature has a pleasant rich freshness to it, with spice and leaf tobacco mingled with some leather and dried roses, and considerable underlying slightly balsamic sea salt, and as it opens some hints of lathered horse as well. Something one can meditate about. On the palate it's fresh, with bright sour prune fruit supported by sour prune acidity and some leathery accents, and silky tannins that gain direction from bright prune acidity that keeps the wine very much on its toes, and flows into a long tart finish. Very impressive, with acidity that is frankly scrappy -- it was made with white grapes, and the entire bunches went into the tini -- and of a sort that will guarantee many more years of life to the wine.  Beautiful, and a child of a different winemaking technique, one that was more approximate but could be sublime when everything fell into place, and that I miss.
93-4

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1968
Here they destemmed the grapes for the first time. Slightly duskier tawny garnet ruby with brownish reflections and Moroccan leather rim. The bouquet is more mature than the 62's with saddle leather and some spice with slight dried flowers, some savory notes, and fairly intense chestnut leaves as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by floral notes and pleasant savory accents, and flows into a long clean savory sour cherry finish with slight leathery underpinning. The tannins are quite smooth, and silkier than the 62's, and the wine as a while is more delicate than its older cousin, and this is because of the destemming, which removes a degree of scrappiness. The wine is very much alive, however. Just a touch more genteel.
93

Both the 62 and the 68 display terrific austerity.

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1974
Lively brownish almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is elegant, with dried flowers and some savory notes, and some minerality mingled with struck granite, and fairly intense saddle leather. It's not quite as fruity on the nose as the older vintages, especially the first. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and by tannins that are smoother, and reveal the influence of oak as opposed to the chestnut of the first two vintages. It's extremely elegant, displaying great depth, and does have that acidic imprint, but is I think a bit more mature than the 68, and to a greater degree than the 62, because the acidity isn't as brash. Very pleasant, and a wine that has a great deal to say even now.
88-90

Beautiful continuity from vintage to vintage; they're very much cut from the same cloth.

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1979
Brownish almandine with deep black almandine reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is deft, with balsamic accents and spice mingled with berry fruit and some dried flowers, and some mineral spice and acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit that has a leathery underpinning and some vegetal notes, and flows into a long rich leather and balsam laced sour cherry finish. Very much alive, and graceful, in a slightly lighter key than some of the others. It has a lot to say and is quite engaging in a slightly tomboyish way, and this is not something one expects of a wine that is more than 30 years old. Terrific freshness.
90-92

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1985
Deep black almandine ruby with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with balsamic accents mingled with spice and leather, and supported by berry fruit and hints of shellac; it's tertiary but quite fresh and quite elegant. On the palate it's beautiful, with rich bright red cherry fruit supported by slight sweetness from hints of residual sugar that are a result of the length of the summer, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly sweet prune finish with some savory accents. Quite pleasant, and shows an influence of the vintage that other vintages don't, in the sweetness and the sugars, while the acidity, which is present, isn't quite as marked. Impressive in any case; with respect to the 79 it is more approachable, and the sort of wine that one could serve to a wine loving friend who drinks wines to enjoy them, not to ponder them. This said, even a wine geek will find things to enjoy.
90-92

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1988
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory red berry fruit supported by slight balsamic accents and some savory notes. It gives an impression of having been a warmer summer; there are also fresh prune accents, and some Moroccan leather. On the palate it's fresh, with elegant sour prune fruit supported by slightly leathery tannins and moderate acidity -- there's less than in the 85 -- that flow into a fairly long rather savory balsamic finish that has a dry tannic underpinning that brings chestnut leaves to mind though the wine is in oak, and also reveals some pencil shaving bitterness that is oak related. Rambling here. The wine is in any case pleasant, though the acidity is a little less marked than the previous vintages, and I find it to be somewhat lacking in this respect. Roundness and smoothness steps in for acidity.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1995

Deep black almandine with black almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leathery notes and some balsamic accents mingled with leaf tobacco, and some warm mineral spice mingled with savory notes. Pleasant in a more ethereal key, and this is in keeping with the vintage, which was cooler. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry prune fruit supported by considerable prune acidity that echoes the older wines, and this is because of the coolness of the vintage, while the tannins are smooth, but do have a slight burr, and flow into a long sour berry fruit finish. The acidity is back! And the wine is very enjoyable in a graceful scrappy key, an odd combination, but it works.
90-91

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 1999
This is, Fabrizio says, destined to be the longest lived wine Monsanto has ever made. The wine marks a change of sorts, it's more towards ruby with slight hints of garnet in the rim, but less of the orange cast and reflections that the older wines displayed. The nose also changes, with rich red berry fruit supported by dusky leathery accents and brooding shadow, menthol, and woodsy herbs; a fellow taster says it reminds him of a Barolo, and he has a point. Very impressive, but different. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft slightly leathery acidity and by tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a long rather tannic finish with some leathery accents and hints of Moroccan leather that echo the older wines. Beautiful and extremely fresh; it's still very young, and though one could open a bottle now if one had one, if one had more than a couple one would want to set most of them aside. Very fine, and has a long ways to go; a fellow taster says that it's the wine everyone will agree on and find something to enjoy. And he's right.
92-3

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim that has slight almandine accents. The bouquet is young, and intense, with berry fruit and spice mingled with savory notes and sea salt, and also slight shellac. It's not still coming together, but is still quite young. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a fairly rich oaky component and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant, and much more modern in style, with a richness and ripeness of fruit and a smoothness that the older wines don't display as much, while there is also a more pronounced alcoholic warmth. It's welcoming, and elegant now, but how it will be when it's the age of the older wines is something to confirm. It's more modern in style, and this is in part the vintage, but may also be changes in winemaking.
88-90

Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim paling to white. Fresh, and very young on the nose,with ith lively cherry fruit supported by some dusky black cherry sweetness, and by moderate acidity. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's quite pleasant, but again quite young, with beight cherry and forest berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that lay a dusty burr over the tongue and flow into a bright fairly tart finish. The acidity is there, hearkening back to some of the older vintages, and it has a pleasing vibrancy to it that I didn't note as much in the 01 or the 99; it's very young, and very fresh, and displays great potential. A fellow taster says it's a return to the past, and in some ways it is, though we'll have to taste several vintages before we can say this.
90

After more than an hour, the 62 is even fresher than it was at the beginning… And this is something worrisome, because it leads me to wonder if the more recent wines, made with oak as opposed to chestnut, and, more importantly, fruit that was likely riper (in 1962 winemaking was quite empiric) will hold up as well as it has. Quibbles, truth be told, because if I had a bottle of the 1988 I wouldn't sit on it for another 26 years to find out.

The tasting ended with much animated conversation; for logistical reasons the Bianchis divided us into Italian and non-Italian speakers, and I went with the Italians, most of whom (me included) were bowled over by the freshness of the 1962, and also much impressed by the 99, which is cut from the same cloth but in a more modern key. The non-Italian speakers, I was told, were perhaps more impressed by the 99. It was in any case a most impressive tasting; the standard was universally high, and allowing for improvements in agronomic and winemaking technique, the wines displayed a degree of continuity from vintage to vintage that isn't anywhere near as common as one might expect.

Wines to think about, remember, and perchance dream about.

A few more pictures from the tasting.

San Fereolo: A Dolcetto Vertical and More

Dolcetto is generally considered a wine to be drunk quickly, and as a rule this is true: unless the winemaker is maniacal about cleanliness, with time it develops funky aromas and flavors that become progressively stronger as time goes on.

This doesn't mean it's impossible to age Dolcetto, however, and those in Dogliani, whose Dolcetto is generally more powerful than the Dolcetti produced in other parts of the Langhe, have a leg up in this respect. To prove the point, Nicoletta Bocca had come to Vin Nature with a number of older vintages of San Fereolo, and we (the wines and I -- she was mobbed by other eager tasters) sat in a corner and had a very interesting conversation. Before the Dolcetto, however, I started with her white:

San Fereolo Coste di Riavolo Vino da Tavolo Bianco

This is a blend of Gewurztraminer and Riesling Renano, and is a deep brassy gold with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is powerful and frankly medicinal with mint and eucalyptus mingled with honey. Quite charged and quite particular. On the palate it's quite dry -- unexpected this is -- with bright almost brambly minerality supported by considerable warmth and some citric accents, and flows into a long warm mentholated finish with savory overtones. It was a great surprise, and is a wine some will love and others abhor.
2 stars

San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2001

Almandine with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with medicinal accents and wet leather supported by some minerality, while swishing brings up pleasant savory leathery accents. One certainly wouldn't guess it is 10 years old. On the palate it's fairly rich with deft minerality and green leather supported by smooth dry tannins and warmth that flow into a clean tannic finish with lasting warmth. Graceful in a rather tannic key, and quite pleasant; it you like older wines you will enjoy it considerably because it has held up very well.
88

Nicoletta didn't make the 02.

San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2003

Deep brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and mineral with some sweetness and mentholated accents, supported by some sugars and leaf tobacco with alcohol and some spice from the grapes. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet -- the vintage was very hot and goosed the sugars -- with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by leathery tannins that are rather dry, and by peppery spice that flow into a long dry tannic finish laced with alcohol. Graceful, and though it clearly came from a hot vintage displays pleasant balance and depth. The 2001 was more elegant and balanced, but this is very nice.
2 stars

San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2004

Deeper ruby than the older two, with cherry in the rim. The bouquet is fairly fresh -- we're approaching the notes of a younger Dolcetto, though there are also tertiary aspects -- red berry fruit supported by green leather and some leaf tobacco, and also some spice, hints of violets, and savory accents. Nice depth and clearly from a good vintage. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively spice and bitterness, and by some leaf tobacco, with savory notes and rather dry tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. It's much younger than the older wines -- a function of the vintage -- and has a lot to say. A wine to think about if you like the style and are willing to listen.
88-90

San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2005

Cherry ruby with reddish rim. The bouquet is dusky, with Moroccan leather and minerality supported by underbrush and some bramble. Not much fruit and it gives an impression of coolness. On the palate it's fairly bright, with leathery, leafy berry fruit supported by dry tannins that have some leafy accents and flow into a rather mineral finish that's fairly dry. Pleasant in a cool weather key, and given the 2005 vintage frankly impressive. Not many Dolcetti from 2005 will be like this today.
2 stars

San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2006

Lively cherry ruby with violet rim. Bright for an older Dolcetto. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by some acidity and brambly spice with an underpinning of underbrush, some wet bark, and a fair amount of alcohol. Powerful. On the palate it's full, with rich ripe sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and moderate acidity that flow into a warm decidedly tannic berry fruit finish. We step forward in terms of youth, and the wine is also typical of the vintage in terms of displaying angry greenish aggressive tannins of the sort one finds in a great many 2006 wines.
2 stars

San Fereolo Dolcetto di Dogliani 2007

This is the latest vintage, bottled but not released when I tasted it. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and savory notes supported by alcohol and some spice; it's clearly mature and doesn't have the floral accents one will find in a younger Dolcetto, but displays nice depth and balance, and is also quite fresh. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by delicate acidity and by tannins that are fairly dry and flow into a savory finish. It's much readier and much less aggressive than the 06, though this is relative -- it does have the Dolcetto personality and isn't a wine to drink far from the table. Rather, with succulent roasts and stews.
88

San Fereolo Austri Langhe Rosso 2005

This is a Barbera, named after the vineyard. It's brick ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is mature, with red berry fruit supported by leather, leaf tobacco and some spice. On the palate it's quite fresh, with warm sour cherry fruit supported by deft warm berry fruit acidity and by smooth rather light tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart finish. Elegant, displaying considerable grace,a nd will drink quite well with grilled meats fried meats, and light roasts.
88-90

San Fereolo Il Provinciale Langhe Rosso 2006

This is a Nebbiolo; it's pale almandine with orange nail, and has a classic Nebbiolo bouquet with rosa canina and berry fruit supported by cedary accents -- not small wood -- sea salt and bitterness. Quite harmonious and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright sour cherry fruit shot with warmth and moderate berry fruit acidity, while the tannins, which have a dusky dryness to them, aren't as aggressive as those of the Dolcetti, and flow into a delicate sour cherry fruit fading into dryness. Quite pleasant in a decidedly old style and will drink very well with roasts or stews; it will also age nicely for another 5-10 years. Classic Nebbiolo di Langa, which is a different animal from Barolo and Barbaresco.
88-90

Want to know more? Nicoletta's Site

Tenuta di Capezzana - Some Older Vintages, Tasted at Vinitaly

One of the nicest things about Vinitaly is that some wineries, especially older ones with historic traditions, bring some of their older vintages for visitors to explore. This time Capezzana, whose archives stretch back to the 30s, brought a fascinating set of wines from the more recent past.

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1974

70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo and 10% other traditional varietals, aged 24 months in large (25 hl) casks. Brick with orange rim. The bouquet is delicate, with leather and some Moroccan leather acidity supported by underbrush and some medicinal notes, with underlying eucalyptus and leaf tobacco. Graceful in a fully mature key, and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's it's bright, with fairly rich sour prune fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and some leathery accents, while the tannins are quite smooth and have some leafy accents to them. It's graceful, with considerable bright acidity that has provided backbone and both allowed it to reach this age, and given it good potential for the future. A very enjoyable older vintage.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1983

70% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo and 10% other traditional varietals, aged 24 months in large (25 hl) casks. Almandine with orangish rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and dried flowers supported by clean berry fruit acidity and savory accents with Moroccan leather from old book bindings. Elegant though not as rich as the 74. On the palate it's quite pleasant in a full mature key, with bright tart berry fruit acidity more than fruit, supported by smooth tannins that are silky and savory, and flow into a long tart finish with some tannic underpinning. Though mature it is still quite fresh, and bright, and is a testament to the importance of acidity in red wines because without said acidity it would have settled.
90-91

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano Riserva 1996

80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, aged 12 months in large (23 hl) casks and 12 months in bottle. Deep black almandine with black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory berry fruit supported by balsamic notes and Moroccan leather with some spice. It has quite a bit to say and is quite harmonious. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that are velvety though they do have steely accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with considerable peppery acidity. Quite pleasant, and unlike the older wines, which I would only drink far from the table, will go well with a steak.
88-90

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2000
80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Beginning with Stefano Chioccioli's arrival in 1998, Capezzana carried out green harvests in all their vineyards, thus increasing the quality of their grapes to the point that there was little point in making both Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva. Deep brick ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some berry fruit and spice supported by sea salt, some sour berry fruit acidity, and slight leather, with underlying dried flowers. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a long warm finish. By comparison with the older vintages is suffers some and this is because the end of the summer was excruciatingly hot in Tuscany, hot enough that it interfered with ripening.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2006

80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory notes and red berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and considerable austerity -- it really isn't at all happy about being on display in the glass. On the palate it's ample and smooth with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long spicy tannic finish. It's quite elegant but simply NOT ready, and needs time. If you have the patience to give it, it will reward you, and the score reflects the present.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2007

80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 12 months in 350 liter tonneaux and 12 months in bottle. Bright cherry ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is brighter and readier than that of the 06, and also fresher, which makes sense since it's a year younger; there are red berry fruit and underbrush mingled with vegetal accents and fairly bright acidity, with some underlying goudron. On the palate it's full and rich with powerful red berry fruit supported by smooth tannins that do display a slight burr and flow into a long warm fairly bitter finish. It's quite approachable, and at present superior to the 2006 (though its older sibling may pull ahead with time). Quite pleasant, a wine you will set out and drink, and though one usually doesn't say this about wines of this caliber, it applies here.
90-91

Nicola Bergaglio: A Quick Vertical

Nicola Bergaglio is one of the stauncher traditionalists in Gavi, and when someone mentioned that he was serving up a vertical at his stand in Vinitaly, I hurried over. No need for conversation with wines like these:

Nicola Bergaglio Minaia Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2005
Lot 120 06
Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by acidity and minerality with some petroleum accents and a greenish spicy underpinning. Refreshing. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by languid lemony acidity and some spice, and it flows into a clean bright citric finish with a tart underpinning. Elegant and very fresh, with lively bracing acidity that provides a nice counterpoint to the fruit, which is lemony bit also rather languid, and flows into a clean greenish finish with considerable lasting warmth. Quite pleasant and still very young.
91-2

Nicola Bergaglio Minaia Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2006
Lot 1507
Pale greenish brassy yellow with brilliant green reflections and brassy highlights. The bouquet is intense, and more herbal than that of the 05, with hints of butterscotch supported by vegetal acidity and in tense heather with a slight savory underpinning. On the palate it's ample and languid; it's considerably softer than the 05 though it does display pleasant lemony acidity and is supported by slight tannins from grape; it gives an impression of being from a warmer vintage and is graceful in an approachable key. I would serve it with grilled or roasted fish, or with cheese dishes.
88-90

Nicola Bergaglio Minaia Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2007
Lot 1308
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with elegant white berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and some mineral accents coupled with greenish notes and sea salt. Nice balance and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by deft lemon acidity that flows into a long tart citric finish with mineral accents. Quite pleasant; it's graceful and very fresh, with lively acidity, and will drink well with fried fish or meats, and also with egg or cheese based dishes.
90-91

Nicola Bergaglio Minaia Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2008
Lot 2009
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright lemony accents supported by heather and minerality and some underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemon fruit supported by slight brambly accents and lively acidity that flow into a clean fresh slightly greenish finish that goes on and on. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled or fried fish or meats; it will also age nicely for a number of years.
88-90

Nicola Bergaglio Minaia Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2009
Lot 0510
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and greenish gold highlights. The bouquet is fresh and rather young with vegetal notes and honeysuckle mingled with lively lemony fruit and though it is quick to write it also displays considerable harmony. On the palate it's ample and languid with elegant lemony fruit supported by moderately intense lemony acidity -- less than in the other vintages -- and some savory accents. It's a touch softer than its siblings, and not as bracing, and this is the heat of the 2009 summer at work.
2 stars

Nicola Bergaglio Minaia Gavi di Gavi DOCG 2010
Lot 0411
Brassy yellow with brilliant golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is promising for a just-bottled wine, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with honeydew melon and some sour pineapple acidity. On the palate it's elegant, with lemon-laced honeydew melon supported by bright citric acidity that is quite long, and flows into a lengthy tart finish. Impressive for a freshly bottled wine,a nd I would expect it to improve markedly over the next months and years.
92

What to say? That Gavi can age very well, and that though the Italian restaurant crowd invariably asks for and pushes the most recent vintage, with Nicola Bergaglio's Gavi you'll be much happier if you give it more time. The 2005, after 6 years, was perfectly fresh and eminently drinkable, though it can also stand to age further, at least 3-4 more years and perhaps longer.

I finished with:

Nicola Bergaglio Gavi del Comune di Gavi DOCG 2010
This is their base wine; it's lively brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and some greenish highlights. The bouquet is delicate, with lemony fruit supported by floral accents and savory notes; it's quite refreshing, in a more direct key than the Minaia. On the palate it's ample with bright lemony fruit supported by lemony acidity that flows into a long citric finish. Very pleasant, and is clearly cut from the same cloth as Minaia, but just as clearly a lesser sibling. It will work very well with foods.
2 stars

Capitel Monte Olmi & More: A Tedeschi Vertical

When I first tasted systematically through the Valpolicella region a number of years ago, Tedeschi's wines were among those that impressed me the most, and since then I have made it a point to visit Tedeschi's stand at Vinitaly (usually the first day, and it's usually my last stop), both to taste the wines and to chat, because the family is delightful. This year Sabrina and her brother Riccardo instead came to Florence, bringing a number of vintages of Capitel Monte Olmi, their flagship Amarone, which is from a single vineyard, and also of their basic Amarone Classico della Valpolicella, which is instead a selection of the best grapes from their other vineyards.

The Capitel Monte Olmi is intentionally a more substantial wine, one that tends to take center stage when it is placed at the table, whereas the Amarone Classico is intentionally a more approachable wine, one that one can set out and drink -- if one can imagine setting out and drinking an Amarone.

In terms of technique, the Tedeschi Family is quite traditional -- they do have a drying hall, in which they simply dehumidify the air without warming it to quicken the pace at which it sucks moisture from the grapes, and once the grapes have dried ferment the bunches whole rather than destem them, because they find that destemming damages the grapes, and this has a negative impact upon the wines. Fermentation is, unless the sugar content of the must is extremely high, with natural yeasts, and Riccardo, who is the winemaker, lets it start at its own pace; because of the high sugar content of the must it can take up to a month for the fermentation to get going, during which time the must macerates on the skins. The subsequent alcoholic fermentation can take up to another month and a half. They rack the wine when it begins to seem dry, he said, and put it into botti, where it finishes fermentation, while the vinacce, or wine marks, which still have something to give, go into the Valpolicella Superiore following the traditional ripasso technique.

The Wines, tasted January 18 2011

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1995
Elegant almandine with pale orange nail. The bouquet is powerful, with elegant sour berry fruit supported by dried orange peel, spice, and leafy underbrush mingled with leaf tobacco and savory spice. Beautiful, and it opens delightfully. Most impressive, inviting sniff after sniff. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit that has the slight sweetness one associates with Amarone, and supported by silky tannins that have slight dried plum accents and are supported by deft acidity and savory underpinning that goes on and on. An extremely impressive wine that revolves around grace and finesse, though there is also steely power, in abundance. Amarone needs time to come together, and this has; it will age beautifully for many more years too.
95

A note: with this vintage they tried aging Capitel Monte Olmi in tonneaux (500 liter barrels), but decided that botti work better and returned to them.

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998
Pale almandine with brilliant reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry prune fruit supported by savory spice and some underbrush, though not so much leaf tobacco; it's still very fresh, and as it opens intriguing brown sugar sweetness that is perfectly integrated with the fruit also emerges. It has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with rich cherry prune fruit supported by silky tannins and deft acidity, while the hints of brown sugar present in the nose also comes through on the palate. Very nice, in a slightly richer key than the 95, and this is because it was a hotter vintage. It's not quite as lithe as the 95 -- rather slightly more voluptuous -- and again quite young, and will age beautifully for many more years, though it will drink nicely now too.
93-5

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's significantly darker than the older vintages. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry and prune fruit supported by spice and slight sandalwood, and also by hints of gum Arabic and alcohol. It's quite elegant, and still very young, needs more time to express its best, though what it shows is pretty nice already. On the palate it's ample and rich, with nice cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have slight vanilla accents, and flow into a clean fresh smooth finish. It's an ample, powerful wine that is also quite approachable, and will drink very well with roasts or spicy hearty stews along the lines of goulash or pastissada, and will also work well with rich boiled dinner of North Italian tradition.
92-4

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, and much younger than the 2001, and also more aromatic, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by spice and some leathery accents, and also by some greenish vegetal notes. It's not quite a work in progress, but still quite young. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet, with bright berry fruit -- a mix of cherry and prune with dark brown sugar sweetness -- supported by alcoholic warmth and tannins that have a dry cedary underlay and flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish that is balanced by some sweetness and voluptuous barely ripe yellow peach accents. We're tasting a toddler here, and it doesn't feel quite right; the wine will be beautiful and fully deserves a very high score, but it's not something that should be drunk any time soon; if you have a bottle set it aside 8until 2020 at least), because it will reward you.
92

The 2005 and 2006 Monte Olmi have a little Osoleta, a lesser varietal of Veronese tradition, which confers structure, acidity and color. Just a little, says Sabrina, adding that it has to be used with caution.

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby impenetrable; it's not quite as charged as the 04. The bouquet is quite young, with cherry fruit supported by greenish spice with some sandalwood and some of sweetness, with scrappy brambly accents as well and some sea salt and fairly intense vegetal notes. On the palate it's lighter than the 2004, considerably, and this is due to the vintage, which was much cooler; there's moderately intense cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with slight hints of dark brown sugar sweetness and some cedar, but less than in the 2004, and it flows into a clean rather tart finish. It's a much scrappier wine than the 2004, and has a pleasing lithe grace to it; it's a beautiful interpretation of a lesser vintage and it is very nice to find a winemaker who accepted what Nature gave and worked with it rather than try to "improve" it. It's more similar in some ways to the older vintages of Capitel Monte Olmi, with less concentration, and is a wine that I think will age quite nicely for many years, becoming lacy and ethereal with time, because the necessary acidity is there. If you like cooler vintage wines, seek it out.
93

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with slight orange in the rim; it's slightly darker than the 05 but not quite as dark as the 04. The bouquet is fresh and quite young, with sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sandalwood -- it's not as intense as the 04 but in that cast -- with pleasant greenish vegetal notes and some sandalwood too. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dark brown sugar sweetness, moderate vegetal acidity, and smooth sweet tannins that have slight vanilla accents to them. Though it's younger than the 04 it's further along, and I didn't have the same peeping into a nursery feeling I had with the 04, though here again we are dealing with a very young wine that has a number of years to go before it begins to come into its own. I would give it at least six years before I even thought about drinking it. But it is nice even now, and if you feel you must, you could drink it with a rich, flavorful stew or with a boiled dinner Veronese style.
91

We followed Capitel Monte Olmi with the basic Amarone della Vapolicella Classico, which isn't at all basic:

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1997
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and rather sweet, with cherry and sour berry fruit supported by sweetish notes that are balanced by fairly bright acidity too. It's quite powerful, in a charged key, and as it opens intriguing vegetal accents also emerge. Considerable depth. On the palate it's full, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean vegetal-laced tannins and fairly bright acidity that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's a big wine that nicely reflects the 97 vintage, which was long, hot, and led to very ripe grapes that resulted in wines that are muscular but with slightly less acidity (and therefore definition); it is mature and will drink nicely now with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1998
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and very different from that of the 97, with bright almost minty vegetal accents and hints of chocolate that bring to mind an After Eight mint, with underlying cherry and forest berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's rich, with fairly powerful cherry fruit laced with slight plums more than prunes, and supported by pleasant slightly greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour plum-prune finish with lasting warmth. It's quite pleasant, in a much more balanced key than the 97; it's still a big wine, and does have the sweetness to it that is a hallmark of Amarone, but isn't over the top, and is quite ready to be drink now, with hearty roasts or grilled meats, and will also work very well with a stew or boiled dinner. It's a bit deceptive, because there is more depth to it than one realizes with the first sip; if you want to follow a simple path it will oblige you, but if you want more facets it has them.
90

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit supported by slight brown sugar and by some dried raisins, and also by delicate vegetal accents. Quite a bit going on, and it opens quite nicely. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet, with elegant prune fruit that has some date fruit overtones, and is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have slight leafy accents and flow into a clean fresh finish that brings to mind dried leaves. It's quite pleasant and extremely approachable, a wine that will dink nicely now with hearty stews or boiled meats, but that will also age well for many years. It will bring joy to the table, and is a wine that will support what it is served with superlatively, offering you all sorts of things to think about, if you want to, but not taking center stage the way Capitel Olmi would.
92

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lively black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and rather young, with greenish vegetal accents that bring to mind those of the 06 Monte Olmi, though they are not quite as intense, and yellow peach fuzz too, as well as berry fruit. It makes one feel as if one has walked in upon a girl who was dressing, and though she is presentable isn't quite ready yet. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by date and brown sugar sweetness, and supported by tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a clean bright slightly greenish prune plum finish with savory tannic underpinning. It's surprisingly scrappy for a big wine, and brings to mind the well muscled grace of a classical dancer; one could drink it now with a steak or a roast, but to do so would be an infanticide; it will show much better in another 3-6 years, and will age well for a decade at least.
93

Taken as a group, the Capetel Monte Olmi wines display considerably more finesse than the basic Amarone Classico wines, and this comes as no surprise. What did surprise me a little was the marked difference between the 90s vintages of Capitel Monte Olmi and those made after 2000, which are considerably darker, and also display more concentration and richer fruit -- especially the 2004, which is almost over the top. While I liked the more recent wines, and found them to be more approachable than their older siblings, I found the older wines more interesting; they are more reserved, and demand more concentration on the part of the taster, but I found them to display more finesse and have a little more to say. In short, they are more serious. This may in part be vintage variation; 2004 and 2006 were both fairly hot, whereas the 2005, which was from a cooler, wetter summer, displayed a greater affinity with the older wines.

With regards to the Amarone Classico, I very much enjoyed the 1998, a vintage that received scant attention out of the blocks, as it came on the heels the unendingly sunny, dry 1997 vintage that was at the time haled as the vintage of the decade if not of the century. And it was impressive then, displaying unusual concentration and richness, but with the passage of time it has begun to resemble an aging weight lifter, who is still muscular but no longer boasts the tight physique he had in his prime. The 98, by way of contrast, has emerged with time.

Another Tedeschi Vertical: La Fabriseria

Caparzo Celebrates its 40th Anniversary With Two Verticals

Tenuta Caparzo has always struck me as somehow eternal; though a great many Brunello labels have appeared over the years, I cannot remember ever not seeing their rather distinctive label in wine shops. So I was somewhat surprised to receive an invitation to the celebrations for their 40th anniversary this fall.

Since they are best known for reds -- they are a Montalcino estate, after all -- I expected a Brunello vertical, but we began with Le Grance, a white, and that was another surprise.

Caparzo introduced the wine to show that Tuscany, which isn't known for its whites, is indeed capable of making an ageworthy white, and Vittorio Fiore oversaw the production of the first vintage in 1985.

It comes from a south-southeast sloping vineyard with clayey-sandy soils planted to Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer. The respective percentages in the vineyard are 70, 20, and 10, while the percentages of the varietals in the wine vary from vintage to vintage, depending upon the productivity of the vines. The harvest is generally in late August or early September, picking everything together and basing themselves on the Chardonnay; by comparison with it the Sauvignon is usually slightly less ripe, thus conferring with more acidity, whereas the Traminer is a bit riper, and confers richness. The grapes cryomacerate for 48 hours, and then they take the free-run must and barrel ferment it for 10-12 days; fermentation is followed by 3-4 months of battonage, which is daily for the first 2 months and weekly for the remainder.

Tenuta Caparzo Le Grance IGT 2007
Charged brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is powerful and quite elegant, with rich white berry fruit laced with bitter butterscotch, gunflint, and lively mineral acidity; as it opens some gooseberry also emerges coupled with vanilla, but the Sauvignon is primarily contributing acidity and facets, not playing a primadonna. Quite charged and very intense, with some vegetal accents as well. A lot going on and a great deal of power. Impressive and quite young. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with languid minerality supported by slight bitterness and warm lemony acidity that flow into a clean savory finish with citric underpinning. Graceful, and has a lot to say in a surprisingly delicate key, given the power of the nose. It's a wine that will drink nicely now with flavorful fish, or creamy dishes, but that also has the wherewithal to age for a number of years.
90
Tenuta Caparzo Le Grance IGT 2002
Brassy gold with bright brassy reflections; it's a little less charged than the 2007. The bouquet is elegant, and quite savory, with spice and petroleum mingled with minerality and gunflint; beautiful harmony and a wine with many facets to plumb; it's one of those wines that continues to evolve in the glass. On the palate it's rich, with elegant minerality and considerable lemony fruit that has a slightly languid feel, and flows into a clean bright citric finish that gradually fades into cedary bitterness. It's defter than the 07, and also more agile because its acidity is higher, and is very pleasant; if you like older whites from cooler vintages you will enjoy it very much.
92
Tenuta Caparzo Le Grance IGT 1996
Lively brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is delightful, with minerality mingled with mineral and citric acidity, slight bramble, hints of petroleum, and many more facets. Extraordinary harmony and complexity; sniffing it is like listening to a Beethoven sonata, when the notes are playing and you suddenly realize you've stopped doing whatever you were doing and have been captured by the music. On the palate it's full, with rich bright lemony acidity that has some sour lemon accents, and pleasingly full mouthfeel, with slight dusky savory tannic bitterness, flowing into a clean fresh very long citric finish. It's a white of a kind one rarely finds in Tuscany, and that is nice to simply sit and talk with. Your friends won't think you're strange because they'll be talking with their glasses too.
93

Tenuta Caparzo Le Grance IGT 1993
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. One wouldn't guess it's 17. The bouquet is rich, with white berry fruit and some gooseberry laced with honey -- it's sweeter than the younger wines, because 1993 was very hot until mid-September, resulting in considerable ripeness that knocked back the acidity-- with pleasant savory vegetal accents as well. It's not quite as elegant as the 96, but is very nice. On the palate it's ample and full, with honey laced lemony fruit supported by moderate savory minerality that flows into a fairly long lemon laced finish with slight savory bitterness on the one hand and some sweetness on the other; it's softer than the 96, and this is again a result of the hotter vintage. Quite elegant, and as I said of the color, I wouldn't have guessed it was 17. A very nice wine.
90

We continued with several vintages of Caparzo's Brunello La Casa

The original nucleus of Vigneto La Casa, 2.8 hectares planted to 2800 vines/hectare, was purchased in 1977. In 1986 they planted several more hectares to 4800 vines/hectare, which entered production in 1993, and in 2000 they replanted the original nucleus to a higher density as well. At present the entire vineyard is in production, with yields inferior to 70 quintals/hectare, which are fairly low.
Tenuta Caparzo Brunello La Casa 1997
Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a dusky key, with warm balsam-laced cherry fruit and hints of leaf tobacco with some underlying leather as well, and deft mineral acidity. Quite intense, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly intense sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a clean rather tannic finish; the fruit fades a little more quickly than I might have expected, flowing quickly into tannic bitterness. It's quite pleasant, but is more a food wine than a wine to sip far from the table now, because of the way the fruit fades into bitterness -- a bitterness that will work beautifully with a steak. If I had a case I would age some, but also drink some now.
2 stars

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello La Casa 1993
This was a somewhat weaker vintage -- it rained heavily for several weeks starting September 23 -- and the wine is deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly accents and leaf tobacco mingled with some minerality and some India ink. It's mature, and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that do have a heart of steel, and flow into a clean fairly rich sour cherry finish. It has held much better than the 97, and though one could age it further will drink very well now with a steak or roast, and if you like the style will drink nicely by the glass as well. Quite pleasant, and a pleasant surprise as well; given the vintage I had expected less.
92

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello La Casa 1985
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is elegant, and quite mature, with dusky Moroccan leather and some leaf tobacco supported by savory accents and sea salt. Beautiful balance and depth, a most impressive wine. On the palate it's full, and rich, with silky cherry fruit laced with hints of saddle leather and savory notes, and supported by smooth silky sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Tremendous depth and elegance, and an absolute delight to drink. As a fellow taster said, the wine was worth the journey.
94-5

Tenuta Caparzo Brunello La Casa 1979
The first vintage with barriques -- the wine was in them for a year -- followed by botti. The wine is deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is mature, with balsamic warmth and savory accents supported by some leathery notes and savory sea salt, and also slight leaf tobacco. On the palate it's full, and savory, with fairly rich balsam laced berry fruit supported by savory notes and some balsamic acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, but do display a burr, and flow into a clean rather dusky savory finish with leathery balsamic overtones. It is fully mature, and though I doubt it will improve further it will hold for a few more years.
2 stars
The Le Grance was an unexpected and pleasant surprise.

Of the Brunellos, both the 93 and the 85 were quite nice, and though I didn't expect the 93 to show as well as it did, I wasn't at all surprised by the 1985, because it comes from one of the sunniest falls I can remember, one beautiful day after another. The 97 was instead a bit of a let down; at the time it was haled as the vintage of the century, but with time the many of the wines that seemed then to show so much promise have turned out to be somewhat over the top, in a determined muscular sort of way in which finesse and elegance give way before brute force. This wasn't as obvious here as it has been in other 1997 wines I have tasted, but it was present, and isn't going to go away.

Many thanks to Tenuta Caparzo for an extremely interesting pair of verticals, and here's wishing them equal success in their next 40 years!

Aurelio Settimo: Verticale e Vini

Last year I paid a visit to Tiziana Settimo on the day after Alba Wines, and had a great time, though we wandered the vineyards in the pouring rain and I came home with quite a bit of her topsoil stuck to my shoes.

This year she organized a vertical after one of the day's tastings at Nebbiolo Prima, and I eagerly accepted her invitation. We began with something new, and worked back:

Aurelio Settimo Riserva Rocche Barolo 2004
This is a prerelease sample of the final blend, taken from the tank. In other words, a work in progress that has yet to have bottle age. The wine is pleasing almandine with black reflections and almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with some balsamic accents and spice supported by berry fruit and savory notes. It's a work in progress and still developing. On the palate it's quite elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have slightly sweet balsamic accents and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Beautiful wine, and will be very very fine when it has some bottle age under its belt. Expect it to age well for a decade or more and to simply continue to improve.

Aurelio Settimo Riserva Rocche Barolo 1999
This was made by Aurelio -- Tiziana's first vintage was 2000 -- and was refused by the tasting commission the first time around, because -- they said -- it was at risk of aging too quickly and needed to be "protected." How, one wonders, and indeed the second time Tiziana presented it it passed easily. It's a rich deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange; it's darker than the 2004 Riserva despite being 5 years older. The bouquet is quite nice, with rich berry fruit supported by lively acidity and by some chestnut skins, also slight underbrush and the beginnings of tertiary aromas such as saddle leather and leaf tobacco. Very fresh and a great deal going on, a pleasure to sniff, and one of those wines one could get used to, and demand daily. On the palate it's beautiful, with rich berry fruit supported by deft savory acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright cherry finish with some underlying bitterness and very slight sweet accents that add depth and complexity. Beautiful wine, one to write home about. Most impressive.
93-5

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo 1989
First, a little history: 1989 was the first really dry vintage they had, and also the first hot vintage. In 1990 they harvested early for the first time. 2004 was a more traditional vintage, harvesting in October, but many of the more recent vintages have been early.

And now the wine:
Not a Riserva this time; Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to yellow onionskin on the nail. One wouldn't necessarily guess it is older than the 99 from the color. The bouquet is rich, with bright balsamic acidity and savory accents mingled with green leather, dusky leaf tobacco, and some spice. Quick to write, but very pleasant to sniff and it displays great depth. On the palate it's full and rich and very smooth, with powerful red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet velvety tannins that have beautiful savory depth, and flow into a clean bright savory finish. Very nice, a wine of tremendous finesse and elegance whose age one would never, ever guess. Tremendously impressive, and a wine that will be eternal.
93

Aurelio Settimo Rocche Barolo 1979
This is with a specialty label showing Elena of Toledo, from a company Tiziana and her cousins set up to market all of their wines (the idea didn't work out, and they went back to their labels a year later). Pretty almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim with onionskin nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with elegant leaf tobacco and spice supported by pleasant savory notes and deft balsamic acidity. On the palate it's rich, but beginning to show its age, with savory leathery leafy fruit supported by savory tannins that are distinctly dry and flow into a clean bright balsamic finish with some minerality and a degree of wet earth. Quite pleasant, though it is beginning to show its age and has clearly peaked. Tiziana opened another bottle yesterday, and it is quite interesting; the greater aeration has resulted in much more pronounced tertiary aromas - it's like sniffing a palate of leaf tobacco. The palate is richer and more elegant, with smoother sweeter tannins and much less earthiness than the bottle opened today. One often hears that with older wines each bottle is a story unto itself, and here we see it. Yesterday's bottle was distinctly superior. A score would be pointless, because it's simply good, one of those rare treasures one stumbles across in a cellar or a wine shop or restaurant with a good collection of wines.

Villa In Verticale: Villa Franciacorta Cuvette

The folks at Villa held their first vertical 16 years ago, and it was a thing among friends, to get an idea of how their wines aged. Well enough that they decided to hold another the next year, and with time the gathering of friends morphed into Villa in Verticale, which is an eagerly awaited and quite popular June event.

This year Alessandro Bianchi decided to showcase Cuvette, the wine he introduced in 1986 to celebrate his daughter Roberta's marriage to Paolo Pizzol. At the time the wine was a Sec, in other words several steps up from Brut in the sweetness scale, and as such was groundbreaking for Franciacorta, where most of the wines being made were Brut or drier. But Alessandro wanted a wine that could be drunk during the meal, and since few Italians at the time drank sparkling wines at table, he decided to go with something richer and more approachable than a Brut.

Cuvette is a cru, from grapes grown in a hollow on a hillside vineyard, and is primarily Chardonnay, with about 15% Pinot Nero, The wine is in part briefly barrel aged, and then spends 3-4 years on the lees prior to disgorgement. While its primary composition has remained constant over time, as Italians have become more comfortable with the idea of drinking sparkling wines with foods they have adjusted the liqueur d'expédition, gradually reducing the sugar content, so the wine passed from Sec to Extra Dry, and finally to Brut. As such, we were presented with a moving target as it were, with the 2005 though 2002 vintages Brut, the 2001-1999 vintages Extra Dry, and the 1997, 1994 and 1991 vintages Sec.

All the bottles were production bottles, disgorged 3-4 years after going onto the lees, and as such offered an excellent opportunity to evaluate the longevity of Villa's wines. Which is impressive.


Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2005
Brassy golden yellow with greenish reflections and highlights. And fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly greenish gunflint and spice with rich heather and hints of butterscotch and savory notes as well. Beautiful balance. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly greenish gunflint minerality supported by creamy sparkle and pleasant underlying savory bitterness and bitter acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sip; one could drink it as an aperitif, but it will also drink quite well with creamy dishes.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2004
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is intense, with heather and savory accents mingled with slight wet breadcrumbs, and some gunflint as well; as it opens it gains in intensity opens. Beautiful balance and tightly woven, very fine definition. On the palate it's full, rich, and creamy, with elegant minerality and some mineral acidity supported by creamy sparkle and rich mineral acidity, and also some butterscotch bitterness that flows into a long elegant finish with underlying savory notes that add depth and interest. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, though I might be more tempted to sip it away from the table.
93

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2003
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is richer than that of the 04, and this is to be expected given the heat of the 03 summer, with more floral accents (honeysuckle, in particular) and less minerality, and also hints of butterscotch sweetness; there's also white berry fruit and some greenish accents. Nice balance is a slightly more voluptuous key. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and creamy, with rich butterscotch minerality supported by creamy sparkle, and flows into a clean bitter butterscotch laced finish with creamy underpinning from sparkle. It's softer than the 03, with less acidity, and this is again to be expected given the heat. A very fine expression of a difficult vintage, and will drink quite well as an aperitif.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2002
Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with considerable savory minerality supported by some wet breadcrumbs, gunflint, and some greenish acidity; it's quick to write but extremely harmonious, and invites sniff after sniff. On the palate it's steely, with rich granitic gunflint-laced minerality that gains creaminess from sparkle and flows into a long mineral finish with some butterscotch and slight sour lemon; it's extremely fresh and bracing and has a long, exciting story to tell. Great regret when the glass is empty.
95

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Extra Dry 2001
Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is rich, and slightly sweeter than the 2002, but then again it is an extra dry; there's greenish white berry fruit supported by some breadcrumbs and bitter accents with some greenish spice as well, with underlying lemony acidity. Pleasant in a richer key, and requires a mental shifting of gears. On the palate it's ample, with rich sour breadcrumbs laced with butterscotch and some gunflint bitterness and slight bramble, while there is also an underlying sweetness that confers roundness, and supports the sparkle, flowing into a clean rather voluptuous finish with underlying sweetness that's pronounced, but not cloying. Quite elegant, and will work very well as an aperitif, with cheese based antipasti or cheese dishes.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Extra Dry 2000
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, though not quite as rich as I had expected; with sweetness and minerality but not as much fruit, laced with savory butterscotch and slight bread crumbs; I found myself wondering if the extreme fry heat of August 2000 had an impact upon the ripening of the grapes. On the palate it's ample, and soft, and creamy, with butter apple and fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by creamy sparkle that flows into a clean rather bitter gunflint mineral finish. Pleasant, though a little more settled than the others, and this is due to the heat, which knocked back the acidity some. Quite nice, but it's more of a wine for a wine lover than for the general public; it's not as immediate as the 2001, but has more of a story to tell those who are willing to listen.
92-3

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Extra Dry 1999
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and fine insistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slight greenish mineral accents and savory spice, and clean greenish minerality as well. Impressive, with considerable depth, and though it's an extra dry it's not as sweet on the nose as some are. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, with some lemony accents and minerality supported by sparkle and mineral sweetness that flow into a clean savory mineral finish with slight bitter underpinning.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Sec 1997
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is clearly mature, with savory mentholated accents underlying by a slight pungency that comes with age to some whites, and clean minerality; though it's a Sec it doesn't come across as sweet. By comparison with some of the younger wines it is less approachable, and takes more attention to plumb. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with rich butterscotch laced yellow fleshed fruit (apricot with hints dried peach) supported by sparkle and some savory minerality, and flows into a clean fairly sweet mineral finish with slightly pungent apricot-butterscotch overtones. It's a bit over the top, and this is a characteristic that's actually fairly common in 97 (which was hailed as the vintage of the century at the time) wines; it's very charged, with tremendous concentration, and takes things a little too far.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Sec 1994
Slightly paler brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage it looks fresher than the 97. The bouquet is rich and fairly sweet, with fine floral fruit accents supported by sweetness and some sweet butterscotch, also some candied citrus and some warm milky accents as well. Graceful, and very nice to sniff. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with graceful white fruit that's not at all overripe, and is supported by bright lemony acidity and slight hints of butterscotch, while the sparkle also adds creaminess to the texture, and it all flows into a clean bright finish. The wine is less charged than the 1997, and much more graceful; it has a great deal to say and is, most impressive, one of those wines one enjoys, ignoring all else, and feels considerable sorrow to have finished.
93-4

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Sec 1991
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. This is from a cooler, wetter vintage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lemony fruit mingled with sour lemon, gunflint, and savory accents. Quick to write, but pleasant to sniff and one wouldn't guess it is entering adulthood at this point. On the palate it's ample, with rich savory minerality supported by lemony acidity that is quite intense, enough that the sweetness of its being sec really doesn't stand out, and supported by some bitter savory notes as well, and flows into a clean long savory finish with considerable lemony acidity and some gunflint bitterness. A very pleasant, and completely unexpected surprise; it doesn't seem like a sec thanks to its acidity, but has a pleasing fullness to the palate and will drink very well with foods, especially rich grilled fish. Having said this, the 94 is more about finesse, whereas this is a bit coarser and broader shouldered. It's not a wine most people would want to drink far from the table, but does have quite a bit to say and will work well with foods. I would expect it to age well for at least 5 years more.
88-90

More Villa in Verticale

• Villa Franciacorta Satèn
• Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut

Villa's Site

Campo Alla Sughera: An Arnione Vertical

Campo alla Sughera is a relatively new winery in Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast -- they planted their first vineyards, which are located not far from Ornellaia's, in the mid-1990s and produced the first vintage of Arnione, their flagship wine, in 2001. This year at Vinitaly they invited a number of journalists to taste though the various vintages of Arnione, and I was quite pleased to be included.

Arnione is a Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, and was initially a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot with some Petit Verdot; since 2006 has also contained Cabernet Franc.

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2001
This is their first vintage, from very young vineyards. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slightly candied berry fruit laced with greenish accents and a fair amount of underbrush, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some graphite bitterness, and also by smooth sweet acidity that flows into a clean fresh cherry prune fruit finish with dusky overtones that fades rather quickly into lasting warmth. It's pleasant, and though clearly from a young vineyard -- it's a bit short and lacking in complexity -- shows considerable potential, and is still very much alive and will drink quite well with roasts (including things such as leg of lamb) and stews, including game. Castagneto's testina di cinghiale, stewed wild boar's head, would be good with this.
2 stars

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2002
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. This was a difficult, very wet cool vintage for Tuscany, and Bolgheri was no exception. The bouquet is considerably less ripe than a more normal year would be, and it is also more mature, with wet leather and savory accents mingled with some brambles, and not much fruit. Some menthol though. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are lighter than they would be in a more normal year, and by warm savory acidity that flows into a fairly long clean prune cherry finish. It's interesting, and displays more richenss of fruit than many 2002 Tuscan wines do. Surprisingly successful, though in a lesser vintage key that translates primarily into a lightness of the tannins.
2 stars

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2003
Impenetrable black almandine ruby with slightly brownish rim. 2003 was as hot and dry as 2002 was cold and wet, and the wine does reveal an intensity of color that's a bit unusual. The bouquet is ample and rich, with slightly greenish berry fruit supported by green leather and underbrush, and by clean spice; there's also a hint of sweetness to it, and as it opens petroleum aromas also emerge. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful jammy plum fruit supported by moderate acidity -- less than in the 2002, which is to be expected, but also than the 2001 -- and by tannins that are warm and rather aggressive, flowing into a warm tannic finish. It's clearly the child of a hot vintage, one whose heat interfered with the ripening of the grapes, but is pleasant and has a story to tell.
2 stars

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim, looks a little younger than the 03. The bouquet is elegant, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by slight jammy accents and clean mentholated spice. Considerable depth and very pleasant to sniff; it's also still quite young and still developing. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean prune laced finish. Quite pleasant in an international fruit driven key, and will drink nicely with succulent, not too fatty roasts. A very pleasant fruit forward wine, and if you like the style, which is decidedly in the direction of elegance and polish, you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer more aggressive wines it won't work for you, but if you like the style it is impressive.
92-3

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2005
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with violet reflections and cherry rim that has hints of black garnet. This was again a difficult vintage, with considerable rain from mid-August on. The bouquet is fairly intense, but nowhere near as rich nor as fruit driven as the 2004; it's rich with minerality and underbrush laced with some prune fruit and cassis, and also underbrush laced with spice. Pleasant in a cooler weather key. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with soft moderately intense prune fruit supported by fairly bright brambly acidity and by tannins that have a more distinct cedar underpinning than the 2004, and flo9w into a key prune finish. It's elegant, in a clearly lesser vintage key, and though it doesn't have the voluptuous fruit driven smoothness of the 2004, it does have a story to tell, and will age nicely for at least 5-10 years more.
2 stars

With the 2006 vintage a new vineyard came into production that made Cabernet Franc available. They liked the quality, and decided to add it to the Arnione from the outset.

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2006
This is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot. Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and powerfully fruit driven with rich prune fruit supported by spice and some cedary sweet slightly balsamic accents. Very young in a frankly voluptuous key, and brings to mind a starlet of the Jane Mansfield sort in a glass. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit that gains direction from deft slightly dusky tannins and slight mineral acidity that doesn't impinge but whose absence would be noted, and flows into a clean prune plum finish. It's quite young, and will develop further, but the style is by now set. If you like this sort of voluptuous fruit forward wine you will like it very much, but you have to like the style. If you prefer more tannic, aggressive wines, it simply won't work for you.
93-4

Campo Alla Sughera Arnione Bolgheri Rosso Superiore DOC 2007
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 20% Petit Verdot. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fruit driven but less ripe than the 2006, with redder fruit and some yellow peach as well. On the palate it's ample, but again not as rich as the 2006; the acidity is more marked, and a combination of mineral and sour berry, and the tannins are slightly more splintery, and while this is in part youth, it's also vintage variation. A fellow taster was saying that he found the 2007 readier than the 2006 and I'm not sure I would say that; it may be longer lived however because the tannins are more aggressive and the acidity is brighter. It's also frankly young, and will show much better in a year or two, whereas the 2006 is drinkable now. I also think that, because of its greater acidity, it will work better with foods with respect to the 2006, which is more a wine to drink by the glass far from the table.
88-90

The vertical was quite interesting; If one takes into account the immaturity of the vineyards with the first couple of vintages, and vintage variations, the wines are clearly cut from the same cloth, following a fairly precise voluptuous fruit driven style in which rich ripe power and smoothness are fundamental components; I generally think of wines of this sort as starlets in a glass, and Arnione takes this to an extreme, especially in the more recent vintages in which the vineyards are more mature. As such Arnione is fairly particular: some people will enjoy it very much, while others will simply find it abhorrent. If you like the style, by all means seek it out. If you prefer more aggressive wines with more marked acidities there are others you will like better.

After the vertical, I took advantage of the opportunity to taste through Campo alla Sughera's other wines

Campo alla Sughera Arioso Toscana IGT Bianco 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with considerable gooseberry mingled with honeydew melon and -- casting PC aside -- sweaty blonde, an aroma I occasionally find in wines that have Sauvignon; here there are also some dusky underbrush accents. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with soft gooseberry laced honeydew melon supported by fairly bright gooseberry acidity and by moderate tannins that flow into a fairly bright tart finish. Pleasant, though the palate has a slightly dilute feel to it, and will drink well as an aperitif or with simple fish dishes.
1 star

Campo alla Sughera Achenio Bolgheri DOCG 2009
This is a blend of Vermentino, which ferments in steel, and Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which ferment in wood. It's brassy white with pale brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable crushed sage mingled with the hops one put into beer (I don't know them well enough to say which) -- one writes what one smells -- and some greenish accents. Particular. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with languid honeydew melon and tropical fruit supported by moderate savory hop-laced acidity that flows into a clean slightly greenish finish. I'd have liked a little more brightness and tightness to the fruit, which I found rather soft.
1 star

Campo alla Sughera Adèo Bolgheri DOC 2008
This is a taglio Bordolese, 60-40 Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that spends a year in small oak. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with considerable cassis mingled with violets and some spice, and also slight underpinning vanilla, and as it opens ripe sweet yellow peaches, which do emerge in the wines of Bolgheri. Harmonious. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cassis and forest berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and some pencil shaving bitterness, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean bright berry cassis laced finish. Elegant in a bright fruit driven key that isn't as soft as the Arnione, and will therefore be easier to pair with foods; since we're in spring as of this writing I would be tempted to serve it with something along the lines of lamb chops scottadito, grilled lamb chops. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Campo Alla Sughera Campo alla Sughera Toscana IGT Rosso 2006
This is a new wine, a blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot, and is impenetrable pyrope ruby with back cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with India ink and ripe plum fruit laced with green leather acidity and spice; it's quick to write but quite harmonious in a very international key. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with rich dusky prune fruit supported by moderate India ink acidity and bitterness, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long prune laced finish that gradually fades, with the fruit gradually giving way to youthful warmth and cedar. Impressive in a very international key, and -- as was the case with the Arnione -- if you like the style you will like it very much. Again, as with the 2006 Arnione, because of its voluptuously rich softness it's more a wine to drink by the glass than a wine to set out at the table. Something to seek out, but only if you like the style, which takes fruit forward smoothness as far as it can go without going over the edge.
92

Want to know more about Campo alla Sughera? Check their site.

A Sant'Appiano Vertical, and Other Wines

I discovered Sant'Appiano, an estate in Barberino Val D'Elsa, in a roundabout way: Paolo Baracchino asked me to translate his notes from a vertical of Monteloro, the estate's 85-15% blend of Sangiovese and Colorino, and the wine sounded good. But I was working through my notes from the Tuscan Anteprime at the time, and let the matter rest. However, this April Valentina Paolini invited me to a Ferrari-Maserati meeting at Sant'Appiano.

An opportunity to look (longingly) at many Ferraris is something not to be missed, and after admiring the cars we had a fine lunch at the Osteria L'Antica Quercia, Sant'Appiano's restaurant (which included an excellent antipasto misto Toscano), and then there was a vertical of Monteloro. Which I enjoyed, so I arranged a second visit and drove over.

Sant'Appiano is both a medieval hamlet perched atop a hill overlooking much of the Valdelsa, with San Gimignano in the distance in one direction and Chianti Classico in another, and the estate, which Pierfrancesco Cappelli's grandfather Domenico bought from the Bordoni family in 1960. At the time it consisted of several poderi, or independent farms run by tenant farmers, and winemaking was a marginal aspect of the operation, which was dedicated primarily to seed crops. Though they still do grow wheat, and indeed have more hectares of fields than vineyards -- 120 in all, 17 planted to vine, 40 forested, and the remainder wheat fields and olive groves -- winemaking now plays a much more important role, with the cellars in the town of Sant'Appiano.

Pierfrancesco joined his grandfather on the farm in 1990. At the time Domenico also outsourced grapes, but in 1999 they decided to become independent, working only with what they grew themselves. Alas, he did not live to see the fruits of their labors -- he died in August -- but he left the farm in capable hands, and though Pierfrancesco confesses to having felt very nervous with that first vintage on his own, he needn't have. He had learned well.

The wines? We'll begin with the white, and finish with the vertical.

Sant'Appiano Cappelli Domenico Bianco di Toscana IGT 2008
This is a blend of Malvasia del Chianti, Trebbiano and Viognier, added to increase the aromatic complexity. It's pale brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with vinous accents mingled with minerality and some gunflint, also slight floral accents. On the palate it's light, and direct, with mineral acidity and some gunflint mingled with savory notes that flow into a clean savory finish. Simple, and direct, and will work well as a summer wine with quickly cooked lighter dishes, ranging from vegetarian pasta dishes through simple fish such as triglie alla livornese.
1 star

Sant'Appiano Secretum Rosè Toscana IGT 2008
This is the first vintage of this wine, which is a rosé from Sangiovese; the must rests on the skins for 4 hours, and then is pressed, chilled well and put in a tank where the solids settle, and then fermented with yeasts generally used for Chardonnay. It's onionskin-salmon with onionskin rim paling to pale yellow. The bouquet is rich, with sour berry fruit supported by some acidity and brambly accents, also dappled shade. On the palate it's fairly full, and lively, with bright brambly sour berry fruit supported by alcohol, greenish acidity, and some light, scrappy tannins that flow into a clean fresh brambly sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with antipasti, for example mixed cold cuts and crostini, or with light pasta dishes (including meat sauces), and will be very nice at cookouts with grilled meats and such. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
88-90

Sant'Appiano Secretum Rosé Toscana IGT 2009
This is a tank sample, and is a richer, lively pink more shifted towards ruby than onionskin, with white rim. The bouquet is muted -- it was just filtered -- though swishing brings up floral accents mingled with red berry fruit. Developing. On the palate it's bright, with rich raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and smooth light tannins that flow into a slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish. It's less brambly than the 2008, has slightly richer softer fruit, and is also a little longer on the palate. It will be quite nice and will be worth seeking out.

Sant'Appiano Chianti DOCG 2008
Sant'Appiano is Chianti tout court because they're in the area between the Chianti Colli Senesi and the Chianti Colli Fiorentini. This is 80% Sangiovese, and the remainder Canaiolo. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some brambly accents and hints of leather, and some spice from grapes. On the palate it's scrappy, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by leathery accents and bitter leaf tobacco, with some gunpowder too, and by tannins that have a fairly dry burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with some graphite shaving accents. It's a hard, stony wine -- not quite hard as nails, but not soft, and needs another year to get its bearings; it's very much a food wine that will work quite well with rich pasta dishes, for example pasta with sugo alla Bolognese, or hearty stews. I wouldn't drink it by the glass. In short, it's about austerity, and keeps its distance.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Chianti DOCG 2009
The 2008 was the last vintage of Chainti with Canaiolo; Pierfrancesco knew that it wasn't the most approachable of wines, and (taking the advice of his sales representatives) decided to replace the Canaiolo with Merlot to make the wine more appealing to the general public. A tanks sample of the 2009 is deep cherry ruby with violet reflections -- there's more violet to it than in the 2008, and this is the Merlot. The bouquet is closed, because it had just been filtered when I visited, though swishing brings up berry fruit supported by some currants and deft gunflint acidity. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight burr, but are very very young, and by deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with some underlying bitterness. It's approachable, but displays considerable character too; the tannins aren't as polished as those of some wines with a healthy Merlot component, and it will be quite approachable in a food wine key. In short, though I generally don't approve of the addition of International varietals, here the ploy has worked, and well.

Sant'Appiano Chainti Superiore
This is Sangiovese in purezza. The 2004 is a selection from the older vineyards around Cottaccio, one of the estate's poderi. They are began to replant their vineyards in 1999 (and are planting some new vineyards), and with time the wine will come from the newer vineyards. Depending upon the vintage, this wine spends 8-10 months in barriques.

Sant'Appiano Cottaccio Chianti Superiore DOCG 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with brooding berry fruit supported by slight balsamic savory notes and warmth, with deft slightly mineral acidity as well. Nice balance. and graceful in a fairly ethereal key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit that has a decidedly mineral underpinning, supported by smooth tannins that have dusky pencil shaving bitterness, and flow into a clean mineral finish with pleasant savory accents. Quite nice, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts; it's more particular than many Chianti wines, with the minerality that comes from the terrain providing a distinctive personality, and it's a wine that you will either like or not. I did.
88

Sant'Appiano Cottaccio Chianti Superiore DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine rims. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some brambly accents and slight balsamic acidity with underlying green leather. Pleasant, in a slightly brooding key, and this is in part the vintage, which was cooler and wetter than many. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich bitter berry fruit supported by pencil shaving bitterness and smooth tannins that have a dusky bitter component, and flows into a clean fairly long bitter berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a cool weather key, the fruit has a brooding character to it that also draws from the minerality of the terrain. It's a nice expression of the vintage -- no attempt to compensate for the cooler vintage key -- and will work well with grilled meats or roasts.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Cottaccio Chianti Superiore DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and lively ruby rim. The bouquet is fresh, with sour red berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some balsamic notes, also minerality and slight menthol. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly rich mineral acidity with some leathery accents, and by tannins that have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean fairly tannic finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant in a traditional key, and quite mineral, with fairly cheeky fruit; it will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, and is a wine to seek out if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive, with scrappy tannins that have considerable backbone. If you instead prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you.
88-90

Sant'Appiano S'A IGT Toscana 2007
This is the first vintage of a Syrah, from a vineyard planted in 2000. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with underbrush, earthy wet leaves, and spice. On the palate it's quite mineral, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by dusky gunflint minerality, leafy underbrush, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean dusky finish with dried leaves and leathery accents, also some minerality. It's a stony wine, minerality in a glass, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style. In terms of accompaniments, succulent red meats will likely be the best bet.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano S'A IGT Toscana 2008
Tank sample. Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some berry fruit with wet leaves and leafy acidity -- classic Syrah aromas. By comparison with the 2007 it is richer, and this is both the vintage and the greater maturity of the vineyard. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit laced with underbrush and supported by underbrush acidity, and by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean dusky finish with underbrush and minerality. It's a distinct step up with respect to the 2007, and though it needs time - the bottle has yet to work its magic -- promises quite well.

And Now, The Vertical:

Monteloro started out in 1999 as an 85-15 Sangiovese-Colorino blend, fermented in an upright cask, aged in barriques for about a year, and in bottle for another year prior to release. Over the years they have adjusted the blend, adding 5% Merlot at the expense of Colorino in 2003 and 2004, and 5% Tintoretto, a traditional varietal, in 2005.

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 1999
Deep black cherry ruby with almandine reflections and slightly orange ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry and brandied cherry fruit laced with some balsam and slight leathery accents, and hints of burlap with some India ink as well, and minerality too, with hints of starch. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by minerality and deft mineral acidity with some wet bark accents, and by tannins that have a slightly savory burr and flow into a long clean rather dusky finish with underlying bitterness. Quite pleasant, and though mature has a long life ahead of it; the sad part is that there are just a few bottles left because Pierfrancesco, who didn't have many dealings with wine writers at the time, didn't think to set more aside when he made it. It's the sort of wine that will bring great joy to a table set with a porterhouse steak.
92

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2000
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim fading to orange; there's a little less garnet than in the 99. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some jammy berry fruit supported by warmth and slight mentholated accents; it comes across as a bit softer than the 99. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich jammy berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that have slight greenish brambly notes, and flow into a clean fairly sour finish. Pleasant, and a welcome surprise, because the wine isn't cooked -- something that happened with many 2000 vintage wines -- and also doesn't display signs of arrested ripening, another problem that afflicted the 2000 vintage in many cases. It's a wine that will drink nicely with succulent roasts, for example leg of lamb, and would also be nice with hearty stews.
88-90

Why the vines weathered the torrid 2000 August: Sant'Appiano's terrains are loose at the surface, but the substrate, calcareous tuffs, holds moisture well, which means that the vines are much less likely drought stress when it's hot and dry.

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and entering maturity, with leaf tobacco and savory acidity mingled with some spice and underlying berry fruit, savory notes, hints of quinine and India ink bitterness, also graphite shavings, and some burlap. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, and bright, with fairly rich rather balsamic savory berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rather green leaf tobacco-graphite shaving bitterness finish with underlying savory notes that gradually take over as the other things fade. Pleasant, and pleasingly mature, with considerable depth and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, especially things such as leg of lamb, and will be a very fine food wine. Because of the greenish accents of the tannins I wouldn't drink it by the glass, but with food, where it will shine very well. Something well worth seeking out, if you like wines that have a degree of aggressiveness and backbone.
88-90

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2002
Deep black almandine with bloack reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and clearly from a cooler vintage, with dried leaves and bitterness mingled with some saddle leather and wet salty tea leaves mingled with hardwood ash. Pleasant, though very much in a lesser vintage key; by comparison with the 2001 it's considerably less fresh, and this is to be expected in a wine from the 2002 vintage, given the rains and cool temperatures. On the palate it's ample, with distinctly bitter accents supported by some savory berry fruit and decidedly brambly bitter acidity, and by tannins that are decidedly splintery and very bitter, flow into a clean bitter savory finish. It's quite typical of a cool vintage, but also displays a pleasing grace and will work well with foods, though I wouldn't drink it by the glass, It's something for wine lovers more than casual wine drinkers, and if you are interested in this sort of wine you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style. In short, for an informed consumer, and those who like this sort of wine will find it has much to say. I was quite favorably impressed.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2003
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warmth and alcohol mingled with warm slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, and clean menthol and some cedar as well. Nice depth, and though it's from a hot vintage it's not cooked, and this is a very nice thing by comparison with many 2003 Tuscan wines. On the palate it's ample and comparatively soft, with fairly rich decidedly sour bitter mineral cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and moderate mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smoother and softer than those of the 2002, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish that settles into considerable dryness with leathery accents and continues at length. It's a nice expression of the vintage, and successful; they managed to avoid the overripeness that is so common in the 2003 vintage, and consequently the wine doesn't have that heaviness that so many 2003 vintage wines display. It will be quite nice with foods.
2 stars

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy berry prune fruit supported by some menthol, slight sweetness, and by dusky greenish acidity, with a fair amount of vinous warmth as well. Much more powerful than the 2003. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by graceful berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have fairly intense bitter graphite shaving accents that flow into a clean bitter graphite shaving finish with some brandied cherry accents and hints of licorice root and sea salt -- and a fair amount of alcohol too, that gives an impression of sweetness. It's powerful, and brooding, a wine that demands attention in a rather garrulous way at the outset, though it does settle as it opens, and that will drink quite well with rich meat dishes, ranging from stewed game through leg of lamb. It's particular, and if you like fairly aggressive slightly greenish wines you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. We're far removed from the smoother softer Merlot-based international-style wines here. And I'm not complaining.
90-92

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2005
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh and rich, with bright jammy berry fruit laced with candied cherries and some bramble, with hay and prune fruit supported by some greenish vegetal spice, and hints of wet leather that add depth. Pleasant, and a step up from many wines of the 2005 vintage, which was overall cool and rainy. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich slightly jammy berry fruit with underlying prunes supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they have slight dusky splintery accents, and by dusky acidity that flow into a clean fairly rich slight savory finish with some bitter pencil shaving overtones, that extends at length, gradually settling from prune cherry fruit to savory tannic notes. The finish is a little thin, and this is an effect of the 2005 vintage, which was cool and wet, and therefore has fruit that is less ripe, but is impressive and will drink quite well with grilled meats or hearty stews. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years.
90

Sant'Appiano Monteloro Toscano IGT 2006
This is a barrel sample. Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the irm. The bouquet is deft, with vinous accents and berry fruit supported by savory spice, and though it's obviously developing is promising. On the palate it's ample and rich, with elegant cherry prune fruit supported by moderately intense savory slightly balsamic mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are softer and more polished than those of some of the older vintages, and this is the 2006 vintage at work. It will be very pleasant, and worth seeking out, especially if your tastes are more traditional, though even a modernist will find things to smile over, especially if the wine is accompanied by a steak.

Bottom Line:
I enjoyed Sant'Appiano's wines. They provide excellent expressions of their terroir -- they are more mineral than fruit driven, and this is because of the soils -- and have quite a bit to say. Pierfrancesco and his collaborators, the agronomist Giovanni Capponi and the consulting enologist Marco Mazzarrini are doing a fine job.

Curious about Sant'Appiano? They have a nice site, which also includes a section devoted to the Osteria and their Agriturismo, which consists of 8 apartments in the hamlet, and would be an excellent base for exploring central Tuscany.