Tasted at Radici: Tenuta Giustini

Tentua Giustini was founded in 2005 by Maria Grazia Longo, whose family had made wine for generations but had always sold it in bulk. They have 15 hectares of vineyards, some quite old, planted to indigenous varietals; the vines that yield Primitivo Dolce are trimmed in the Alberello style and the rest to the double cordon spur system.

Tenuta Giustini Vecchio Sogno Negroamaro Salento IGT 2009
This is their mainstay; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, and has an elegant nose with berry fruit and floral accents, mingled with menthol and graphite shavings. Cheeky, like a smiling child. On the palate it's medium bodied and rich, with pleasant berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are smooth and balsamic, with some sandalwood warmth, and flow into a long warm slightly balsamic finish. Very approachable, with a touch more acidity and tannin than some would want in a wine to drink by the glass, though not me. It will work very well with drier meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Giustini Patú Salento IGT 2010
Deep brick ruby. The bouquet has cherry fruit with savory spice, some plum, and considerable freshness with hints of menthol and a fair amount of alcohol that confers sweetness. On the palate it's full and graceful, with plum prune fruit supported by some balsamic notes and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm rather balsamic prune finish. Pleasant and well defined; it will drink very well with drier meats.
2 stars

Tenuta Giustini L'Arcano Primitivo Dolce Naturale Puglia IGT 2010
Deep brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is spicy and moderately sweet, with some graphite shavings and spice -- not as sweet as I would expect a Primitivo Dolce to be. On the palate the sweetness is there, however, somewhat diarticulated from the prune fruit, which is supported by balsamic tannins that flow off into a balsamic prune laced finish. It's going in two different directions, with a finish quicker than I might have liked, and though one can say it needs time to come together, it will never display the baroque opulence I associate with Primitivo Dolce.
1 star

Tasted at Vin Nature: Antiche Cantine de Quarto

Antiche Cantine de Quarto is another winery I tasted the afternoon I left Vinitaly for Vin Nature, a group of winemakers who eschew all kinds of chemicals and pesticides -- I sat down for what I thought would be a last wine before dinner, liked it, and tried another and another. Rather like nibbling on a bowl of cherries.

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Fiano Intenso IGP Puglia 2010
This is a Minutolo; it's elegant brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and has an intense bouquet with considerable goodeberry laced with roses and greenish vegetal accents, supported by acidity that has a definite mineral zing to it. A lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful lemony fruit laced with some citrus, and deft greenish minerality that flows into a bright gooseberry citrus finish. Quite zesty, and will work very well with flavorful grilled fish and dishes such as a Tiella. Something to keep an eye out for.
2 stars

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Mucchio Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some concord grape jelly and considerable sweetness. Voluptuous. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by plum sweetness and moderate acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly dry, and flow into a clean fresh prune finish. Very nicely balanced, and though it is fairly strong the alcohol doesn't disturb. A fine, fine expression of the varietal, and worth seeking out.
90-92

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Dionisio Primitivo di Manduria DOC Riserva 2008
This is made from the best bunches, ripened further, fermented slowly, and then aged in wood for a few months. Inky purple. The bouquet is rich, with jammy Concord grapes laced with sweetness and some petroleum, hints of gooseberry, and deft spice with underlying alcohol. Beautiful balance and complexity though I found myself preferring the linearity of the Mucchio. On the palate it's full and smooth, with rich red cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and warmth that has savory balsamic accents, and by tannins that are dry and cedar laced, and flow into a long warm cedar laced finish. Very fine and quite approachable, and if you are of international tastes you may prefer it, but I find that Primitivo really doesn't need wood.
90

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Pozzella Lizzano Rosso Negroamaro DOC 2009
Deep cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by lively acidity and some vegetal accents; it's fairly rich, and gives an impression of zestiness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit laced with minerality and some underbrush that flows into a clean rather fresh mineral finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with red meats or light stews.
2 stars

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Tarantola Lizzano Rosso Superiore DOC 2005
Again, Negroamaro. Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with green leather and savory notes, as well as sweet underbrush and minerality. Nice depth in a mature key, and as it opens herbal accents also emerge. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright berry fruit supported by some sweetness from alcohol, minerality, and tannins that have a warm peppery burr and flow into a clean brambly greenish finish. It's a nice expression of the grape, and will work well with grilled meats or hearty stews, though I wouldn't age it for that much longer.
2 stars

Antiche Cantine de Quarto Albiria Primitivo di Manduria Dolce DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with brown sugar and hints of leather mingled with caramel and plums, prune fruit and some vegetal accents, lacy sugar, violets and other blossoms, mentholated notes, and one could go on and on. Terrific complexity. On the palate it's full, rich, and sweet, with elegant prune cherry fruit supported by warmth and sweet tannins, and is beautifully harmonious, a wine that seems simple because everything is in its place, but that one can sip for hours without tiring of.
92-3

They also make a liqueur called Elisir di Primitivo, a digestivo of sorts, which was a very nice way to finish up the tasting. Extremely pleasant.

For more information, check their web site.

Tasted at Radici: Morella

Last year in the course of Radici we went on an interminable bus tour (the driver got lost), the high point of which (and it was most definitely a high point) was a visit to Morella, a tiny winery a few km southwest of Manduria, to see old growth Primitivo trained to the Alberello, or shrub style.

It was quite instructive to wander the vineyards, looking at the gnarly vines while Lisa Gilbee, an Australian winemaker who came to Puglia to work about 10 years ago and fell in love (with the land, but more importantly, with Gaetano), told us what she was doing, tales that made us all the more eager for dinner, where she would be presenting several vintages of her Primitivo. They were beautiful, in a vigorous very modern style.

This year Lisa and Gaetano came to Radici to present their wines, and I spent a very profitable hour tasting, talking and learning.

Morella Mezzogiorno Bianco IGP Bianco Salento 2010
Pale brassy white with breassy reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some greenish notes mingled with honeysuckle and some spice. Graceful; nice depth and very fresh, and as it swishes some minerality also emerges. On the palate it's delicate, with nice white berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by deft savory accents with a warm burr that flow into a clean fresh fairly mineral finish. Quite pleasant and will be a versatile food wine.
2 stars

Morella Primitivo - Negroamaro Terre Rosse IGT Salento 2008
This is a blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro, the grapes, which are harvested plot by plot (thus allowing her to tell exactly what each plot is like), are pressed using a basket press and fermented in upright conical wood vats. There's no filtration, only racking. Returning to the wine, it's deep, almost violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and some spice at the outset, and as it opens elegant berry fruit, a mixture of fairly tart cherry and plum, emerges. Gives an impression of fullness. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that do display a slight greenish burr and some peppery accents, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Nice depth in an international key and quite bright; it's very approachable and will work very well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Morella Primitivo - Malbec Terre Rosse IGT Tarantino 2008
This is an IGT Tarantino because the Tarantino Disciplinare allows for Malbec, which was planted in Puglia after the Phylloxera outbreak to make bulk wine to sell to the French. Though Malbec is no longer an important varietal in Puglia some has survived, and they have enough in their vineyards for it to contribute 15% to the blend. The wine is deep almandine with almandine rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with spice and berry fruit supported by some cedar, with underlying acidity. The Malbec, despite it's being a relatively small percentage of the blend, has a profound impact, adding verve and bite to the Primitivo. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with nice cherry plum fruit supported by deft greenish acidity and peppery spice, while the tannins are smooth and peppery and flow into a clean peppery finish. It's quite approachable, and will work well with red meats; for example grilled or roasted leg of lamb or even lamb chops.
2 stars

Morella Old Vines Primitivo 2007
This is from 80 year-old vines trained to the Alberello style. Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with vegetal notes and plum fruit supported by spice and cedar; it's fairly harmonious but also very young, and though the energy is there it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a savory cedar underpinning and considerable warmth, and flow into a long warm cedar-laced finish. A beautiful expression of Primitivo in an international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer the more traditional style it won't work as well for you, though you may find yourself reevaluating it with time because it will age quite well.
90

Morella La Signora Primitivo 2007
This is from a contiguous vineyard they now own; the vines are planted to the Alberello system but are only 60 years old, and are a different clone than those of the Old Vines. Almandine with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with peppery spice and some cherry plum fruit mingled with balsamic accents. Quite elegant, in a brighter key than the Old Vines, with more berries and cherries than plum. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sandalwood laced tannins and fairly bright warm acidity that flows into a warm berry fruit finish; it has redder fruit than the Old Vines, and is also somewhat more savory, but is equally elegant, and which you prefer will depend upon your personal tastes.
88-90

Morella Old Vines Primitivo 2001
This was their first vintage, and was poured from a Magnum. Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and some greenish accents; it's much more oaky than the more recent vintages. On the palate it's full, with rich powerful berry fruit supported by warmth and peppery cedar-laced tannins that flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant in an international key, and has held very well, showing considerable potential and fruit. It's interesting to note how Lisa has backed away from oak since this vintage -- the 2001 had terrific fruit that shoulders the oak well, where a less good vintage would have been overwhelmed. Then she was clearly very good at her job, but doing what she knew worked (elsewhere) in new surroundings. Now she has a much better feel for Puglian terroir and varietals, and her touch is ever much defter.
2 stars

Morella Mezzanotte Rosso IGT Salento Rosso 2010
This is something in a different direction, made by leaving Primitivo on the vines longer to obtain jammy notes, and harvesting it together with Petit Verdot, Cabernet and Negroamaro (about 30% in all) and fermenting the resulting wine in cement. At least this was the plan; this year it rained, forcing her to harvest a little sooner than she's have liked, and to compensate she put some of the wine in oak. But the goal remains a different style of Primitivo. Deep ruby, with a fairly rich bouquet that has red berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some spice, and also by minerality and floral accents,. With, as it opens, some savory tobacco leaves too. Pleasant and fresh. On the palate it's full, with bright rich plum cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and savory notes mingled with some underbrush and fair warmth, and by sweet peppery tannins (the Cabernet, remember) that flow into a long fruit laced finish. Quite approachable and a fine food wine that will work very well with grilled meats or light stews; it's quite fruit forward, and while the Primtivo lays the foundations the other varietals provide depth and character, and also help to lower the total alcohol levels. Impressive for a first vintage, and future vintages will be interesting to follow.
2 stars

Want to know more: Morella's Site

Tasted at Radici: Macchiarola

The nicest thing about Radici is the variety of wineries participating: Some established names, and others that are very, very new.

Macchiarola falls into the latter category; The estate belongs to a family that has a Masseria, or farm complex, with 6 hecates of Primitivo, planted in 2005 a spalliera, which is a trellis system. The first vintage was 2007, and in 2010 they began to make Negroamaro, using the grapes from a vineyard that belongs to a neighbor.

The didn't filter the 2007 and 2008 vintages at all, but now clarify and filter lightly to increase stability.

Macchiarola Negroamaro 2010
Tank sample
Deep ruby. The nose is spicy and rather exotic, with savory notes and berry fruit mingled with some sweaty blonde and some sea salt. Not bad for a first attempt! On the palate it's quite bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by lively acidity and fairly bright tannins that flow into a fairly warm finish. A fine food wine that will be perfect at a cookout or with grilled meats. Freshness in a glass.

Macchiarola Primitivo di Manduria DOC 2009
This was a different vintage, with high acidity that they compensated for by allowing the grapes to ripen further (and going through the vineyard to eliminate imperfect buches); they did obtain balance, but with 16% alcohol. It's in steel because they are still evaluating the vineyard. Deep pigeon blood ruby with brick rim. The bouquet is powerful and sweet, with savory notes and plum berry fruit mingled with sea salt, quite a bit of spice, and scalded milk. On the palate it's moderately rich, with plum prune fruit supported by some sweetness nicely balanced by savory accents and dried prune, and by tannins that have some warmth to them. The vineyard is still quite young and as a result the wine, though promising, lacks the depth future vintages will have. In short, a wine to keep an eye out for in future vintages.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Duca Carlo Guarini

Duca Carlo Guarini is an estate in the southern half of Puglia, about half way between Lecce and Santa Maria di Leuca. They make a number of wines, primarily from autochthonous varietals, and though they do use some oak much of their production is in steel, and to be frank doesn't miss the oak at all.

In addition to wine, the estate makes all sorts of foodstuffs, from olives in brine though artichokes and more, which makes a visit -- it's quite pretty -- doubly interesting.

Duca Carlo Guarini Burdì Bianco Salento IGT 2010
Lot BB1 2011 (the first bottling of 2011)
This is a Bombino Bianco, and is brassy white with some greenish reflections. the bouquet is fresh and quite savory, with bright minerality and some greenish accents as well. Pleasant and refreshing, and impressive for a just bottled wine. On the palate it's light, and fresh, with lively mineral laced lemony fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and flows into a clean fairly crisp citrus laced finish with underlying savory accents that provide depth and continue at length. Quite pleasant in a light simple key, the sort of wine one can drink by the bucket with no ill effects, and that will go well with all sorts of summer things. Expect it to go quickly and you will want more.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Murà Sauvignon Salento IGT 2010
Lot M 1 2011
Beassy yellow with bright slightly greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with classic sauvignon aromas, though not as wild as some; it revolves more around gooseberry and lemon than the more animal notes sauvignon can reveal. Fresh, and still developing, but pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and tannins that have hints 9of artichoke greenness to them, and flow into a long warm sour lemon finish. It's pleasant in a vigorous key, and will drink well with grilled fish, including more flavorful fish such as salmon, and also be a nice accompaniment to fried fish and vegetables during the summer months.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Campodimare Salento IGT 2010
Lot CP2 2011
This is an organic wine --not the only one they make -- and by 2013 all of their wines will be certified organic. It's pale salmony rose with brilliant pink reflections. the bouquet is fresh, with mineral laced raspberry fruit supported by heather and savory accents. Fresh. On the palate it's bright, with fresh raspberry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and warmth, and by intense savory minerality that gradually emerges in the finish. Quite fresh, and peasant, and will drink nicely with picnic foods in the summer, or light dishes. Versatile and will go quickly.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Nativo Salento IGT 2009
Lot NB 1 2011
This is a Negroamaro in purezza, and is certified organic. It's deep ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense and still coming together -- it was recently bottled -- with berry fruit supported by leather, and needs time; as it opens dusky berry fruit emerges supported by some vegetal notes and balsamic accents. On the palate it's fresh, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that are slightly splintery, and have some coffee ground bitterness to them, and it all flows into a berry fruit laced finish with some vegetable underpinning. The palate is well ahead of the nose and pleasant; it needs a few months for the nose to catch up, and will be quite pleasant with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also could be pressed into service with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.
88-90

Duca Carlo Guarini Malìa Salento IGT 2008
Lot MA 1 2011
This is Malvasia Nera; it's elegant almandine cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich slightly vegetal laced jammy red berry fruit supported by spice and some alcohol and pleasant underlying herbal notes. Impressive for a wine just bottled. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by distinctive savory accents and a pleasant mineral underpinning that carries into a long savory finish with some peppery accents. It needs another few months, but will be quite pleasant and work well with either meats or with rich legume-based dishes, along the lines of fava bean puree with chicory.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Pìutri Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008
Lot P1 2011
This is in part barriqued, for about 8 months, while the remainder aged in steel. It's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and has a fairly rich bouquet with berry fruit supported by greenish leather accents and some cedar, and also by some vegetal notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity, and by tannins that are nicely polished, and smooth, and display a slight cedary overlay that wasn't present in the non-oaked wines, flowing into a fairly long rather tart berry fruit finish with a cedar and coffee ground underpinning. It's quite elegant and also quite approachable, with the brightness of Negroamaro's acidity smoothed but not hidden by the oak. Enjoyable, and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts. A nice introduction to Negoramaro if you are new to the varietal.
88-90

Duca Carlo Guarini Vigne Vecchie Salento IGT 2008
Lot VV1 2011
This is a Primitivo; it's deep slightly almandine ruby with white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich with berry fruit mingled with orange peel and some spice, supported by a fair amount of alcohol. It's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful plum fruit supported by savory tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean warm plum finish with savory tannic underpinning and lasting tannic warmth. It's quick to write and the wine is very young, but it's pleasant and shows considerable promise; it needs a few months to get its bearings, and will then drink nicely with rich stews.
2 stars

Duca Carlo Guarini Boemondo Salento IGT 2007
Lot bo 1 2011
This is Primitivo; it's made with about 30% dried grapes, and spends a couple of years in tonneaux. It's inky pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich prune plum fruit supported by some cedar and hints of scndalwood, and by some sweetness as well. On the palate it's full and rich, with warm sweet prune fruit supported by sandalwood laced tannins and rune acidity with underlying warmth that flows into a long warm prune laced finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant; it's a wine that still coming together but already displays considerable depth and complexity, and is a wine you should think about if you like Primitivo. In addition to the standard roasts and stews, it will also work well with aged cheeses thans to the sweetness that derives from the dried grapes. Very pleasant.
90-92

Duca Carlo Guarini Ambra Passito Bianco Salento IGT 2009
Lot not on label (bottled for Vinitaly)
This is a Sauvignon. It's brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections. the bouquet is powerful, and sweet, with some gooseberry accents and some dried white fruit, supported by quite a bit of sugar. On the palate it's rich, with powerful dried apricot fruit supported by dried apricot acidity and sweetness, which confers a rich languor to it, while there are some spicy mineral accents that gradually emerge in the finish, which is warm and very long. Quite elegant and with considerable depth, while the richness of the fruit and the sweetness are balanced well by acidity, which keeps the wine from being cloying.
90-91

Duca Carlo Guarini Rarum Passito Salento IGT 2008
Lot 1p 11
This is a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera fermented in steel (as was Ambra); it's deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and elegant, with sweet prune fruit supported by bitter chocolate of the Modicana sort and pleasant spice, also some vegetal notes and some alcohol, and some dark brown sugar. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, rich, and sweet, with full bright berry fruit supported by dusky brown sugar sweetness that confers a certain languir, while there is also deft warmth and the tannins are smooth and again cocoa laced, flowing into a long smooth finish. Very pleasant and though it needs another year to come together fully is a wine that you should definitiolay look for if you like passiti; it's very different in terms of flavor registry from the classic north Italian passito (i.e. Recioto), and well worth seeking out.
92

Want More information? Visit their site.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Cantele

Cantele is one of the estates I visited in the course of my trip to Puglia this fall, and when I came upon their stand after a tasting of Puglian Rosés held this spring at Vinitaly, I was quite happy to taste through their new vintages. To be quite frank, the wines speak for themselves:

Cantele Alticelli Fiano Salento IGT 2009 Pale brassy white wirth brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with clean heather and some candied tropical fruit. Hot vintage key. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with clean bright tropical fruit, a mixture of mango and some pineapple acidity supported by pineapple acidity that flows into a clean bright finish Pleasant and will be a nice aperitif or with simple fish dishes.
2 stars

Cantele Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT 2009 Lively rose with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense with berry fruit and some almonds and spice. Still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with clean berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by slightly languid light tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. A pleasant, direct Rosato that will be nice at a cookout or with simple grilled fish or meats.
1 star

Cantele Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008 Deep brick ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is po9werful, with considerable spice mingled with sandalwood and red berry fruit. Fairly aggressive. On the palate it's light, with clean bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour slightly bitter finish with some underbrush accents and leathery tannins. Pleasant, and is a fine food wine that will work well with grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly.
2 star

Cantele Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2007 This is 85-15 Negoramaro-Malvasia Nera blend, and of the 24 months of required aging prior to release, 6 are spent in barriques. Deep cherry ruby with dusky almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with berry fruit mingled with sandalwood spice and some cedar, and also brambly acidity. Nice balance, and very young. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity and tannins that are a bit splintery, and flow into a clean rather brambly finish. It's not a wine to drink by the glass far from the table, but will work very well with foods, especially simple grilled meats and light stews, and will also be nice with traditional Puglian vegetarian foods, for example fava bean puree with refried greens. Quite versatile, in a food pairing key. Will also age nicely, becoming silky with time.
2 stars

Canteli Alticelli IGT Puglia 2007 This is an Aglianico: Deep brick ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with clean prune cherry fruit supported by leather and pronounced underbrush and also some spice. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour berry fruit supported by leathery tannins and clean mineral acidity that flow into a fairly bright tannic finish with mineral accents and some bitterness. Quite pleasant and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews, and also will work well with grilled meats. I would expect it to age wel for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Cantele Teresa Manara IGT Salento 2007 This is a Negroamaro from vineyards pruned in the traditional Alberello, or shrub style. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still very young, but reveals some berry fruit supported by sandalwood and spice. A work in progress. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sandalwood spice and warmth, and by clean berry fruit acidity while the tannins are smooth and sweet, with slight sandalwood accents. Very nice, and when the nose catches up to the palate (a year at least) it will be impressive. And will age well for a decade or more. Worth seeking out to set aside.
88-90

Cantele Amativo Salento IGT 2007 This is a blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro; it's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still quite young, with an initial rush of cedar mingled with berry fruit and some acidity. Needs time. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. A nice blend of the two varietals, with Negroamaro conferring acidity and brightness, while the Primitivo confers a rich very pleasant roundness. While both are capable of reaching great heights, the sum is also capable of being greater than the parts, and the wine is extremely pleasant. It will also work very well at table, with grilled meats including fattier cuts such as ribs, or with hearty roasts. It's very young, and needs time, but will work well with foods even now, and will also go quickly at table despite being a substantial wine. The score reflects the present.
2 stars

Last thing: Cantele has a fine blog with much more than wine, and if you read Italian you should check it out. Even if you don't, the pictures are pretty.

Wandering Puglia: After I Pastini.... All Sorts of Reds!

After visiting I Pastini and tasting Fiano Minutolo, we drove to Candido, one of the historic Apulian estates, founded in 1929. They have recently renovated their main offices, which were palatial and quite impressive. As were the wines; we began with a vertical of Duca D'Aragona, their flagship wine, and followed it with several more of their wines (accompanied by a pleasant lunch), and then tasted through the wines of a number of other producers, each of whom had brought two wines.

This was one of the first times a group of Apulian winemakers had come to another winery with their wines, and from our standpoint it was a wonderful thing, because it allowed us to taste many more wines than we might otherwise have been able to. Rather than drag on, the wines.

Azienda Vitivinicola Francesco Candido

As I said, we began with a vertical of Duca D'Aragona, a Salento IGT Rosso whose composition is 80% Negroamaro and 20% Montepulciano D'Abruzzo:

Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 1997

Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with cherry fruit supported by clean wood smoke and cedar, and some underlying balsamic notes, and hints of jammy sweetness. Quite elegant, and deft in an international key; it shows a great deal of polish and brings to mind a well-muscled athlete. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by balsam-laced tannins that have a warm cedary underpinning, and flow into a fairly long warm cedar-laced tannins with lasting warmth. Quite pleasant, with tremendous finesse, and quite fresh in an international key. If you like this style you will enjoy it greatly, and even if you're more traditionally minded you will find things to ponder, because it does have quite a bit to say. Impressive.

90-92

Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 1998

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is very different from the 97; with powerful mentholated spice not present in the 97; there are also hints of cumin seed and coriander seed, and there is underlying red berry fruit. Interesting, in a slightly more mature key than its older relative. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich chewy cherry fruit supported by moderate dusky acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a considerable cedar overlay and flow into a warm cedar-laced finish. It's pleasant, with nice chewy tannins and rich fruit, but not quite as rich or as fresh as the 97; it is quite ready to be drunk now, and though it will age nicely for a few more years won't be as long lived as the 97. I found it more settled.

88-90

Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 2000

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. There's more orange to it than there was in the older vintages, and this is likely the heat of the 2000 summer. The bouquet is intense, with cedar and candied fruit laced with green leather and hints of leaf tobacco; the aromas are quite pleasant, but in a more mature key than those of the older wines, and this is a characteristic of the vintage. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by smoky bitter accents that are more apparent here than in the other two vintages, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. By comparison with the other two it is a little thinner, and a bit more aggressive, and I would attribute this to the heat of the summer.

2 stars

Candido Duca D'Aragona Salento IGT Rosso 2003

Deep slightly orange ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and hints of wood smoke and leather, and warm underlying cedar. Nice balance, and though it's not heatstruck it is from a hotter vintage -- not quite as tight, and less acidity. On the palate it's ample, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky smoky burr and flow into a decidedly bitter finish with peppery accents and some berry fruit. The acidity is reduced by comparison with the older vintages, especially the 98 and 97, and the fruit has a much sweeter cast to it. In short, it is a child of the vintage, and is in a way distinct from its siblings. It is also quite young, and will develop positively for at least 5 years, but I don't think it will be as long lived as the 98, and certainly not as long lived as the 97.

2 stars

Candido Pozzelle Salice Salntino Rosé 2008

Pale pomegranate pink with white rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by some sweetness, black currants, and some spice. Nice depth, and quite pleasant. On the palate it's rich, with bright slightly sour berry fruit with some underlying sweetness that flows into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Very pleasant in a seductive, rather voluptuous key, and will drink very well as an aperitif or by the glass. Expect it to go quickly.

2 stars

Candido Cappello di Prete Salento IGT Rosso

This is a Negroamaro. It's deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsam-laced berry fruit supported by cedar and wood smoke, with the cedar becoming more pronounced as it opens. Pleasant in a rather cheeky international key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with pleasant plum cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr to them and flow into a warm berry fruit finish with dusky bitter tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from grilled meats through light stews. Expect the bottle to go quickly.

2 stars

Candido Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2005

95% Negroamaro, 5% Malvasia Nera. It's black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by greenish spice and some wet leather, and also nose tingling wood smoke acidity. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by tannins that are fairly sweet but do have a dusky dry burr in the finish, and flow into a rather bitter berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and will drink better with foods than by the glass; I would be tempted to serve it with simple roasts or light stews.

2 stars

Candido Salice Salantino Aleatico DOC 2002

Pale almandine with orange rim. The bouquet is fairly rich with sweet cherry fruit supported by acidity, sugars, and iodine, and also some hopiness. Very nice, with great depth and elegance. On the palate it's full, and sweet, and a little softer than I expected, with nice berry fruit supported by a mixture of sweetness and some quinine bitterness that flows into a clean sweet finish, again tempered by hints of quinine. A nice wine one can converse with.

90

After these wines, we continued with other wineries who had kindly brought their wines; we then bundled back into our van and drove over to the Azienda Agricola Cantele (see the photo above), where we again tasted the wines form several wineries.

Since I concentrate on the wines in these situations, I didn't take as many notes as I might have liked when the producers introduced themselves, but I did take some, which are spliced in along with the wines.

Cantine PaoloLeo

PaoloLeo Fuxia Rosè Puglia IGT 2008

This is a Negroamaro. Pale pomegranate with a slightly orange cast and onionskin rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and clean spice. Refreshing. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly greenish berry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and warmth, and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a warm rather zesty finish. Pleasant, and will work very well with foods either out doors, as a cookout or picnic wine, and with simple pasta dishes, white meats, and also ahs the acidity to work well with fried meats or vegetables, including things normally difficult to pair such as artichoke hearts.

2 stars

PaoloLeo Orfeo Negroamaro Puglia IGT 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by cedar and some hardwood ash, with underlying bitterness as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by tannins that have a decidedly intense cedar overlay and flow into a long cedar-laced finish. It is, for me, a bit too heavily oaked, and I would give it a couple of years to let the oak fold in.

1 star

PaoloLeo's representative says that one of Negroamaro's salient characteristics is slightly pungent peppery aromas.

Valle Dell'Asso

Mr. Minoia has conducted Valle dell'Asso since 1994. He farms organically, and also practices aridocultura -- learning to grow the vines with what water they have.

Valle dell'Asso Fiano Salento IGT 2009

A barrel sample. This is yet another Fiano, and distinct from both Fiano and Fiano Minutolo. It's pale brassy green with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is still rather muted. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour lemon fruit supported by bitter lemon acidity and hints of almond that are a bit unusual. It has a slightly tired feel to it, but since it is a tank sample we will have to wait to see what it will do in bottle.

Valle dell'Asso Piromàfo Negroamaro Salento IGT 2005

This wine ages for a time in large wood. It's deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is dusky, with balsamic notes and wood smoke mingled with berry fruit and some hazelnut; there's something smoky to it, and also a distance. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have distinctly chocolaty cold coffee overtones derived from wood, and flow into a fairly warm fruit laced tannic finish with again quite a bit of influence from wood. If you like the style, which is rather oaky, it will work well with grilled meats or light stews.

1 star

Agricola Vallone

This is a large winery, with 670 hectares of land, and 170 hectares of vineyards. The estate is divided into three tenute, which are located around Brindisi.

Agricola Vallone vereto Salice Salentino Rosso DOC 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. The bouquet is fresh, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some jammy accents supported by bright acidity and hints of lactic acid (just hints). Quite fresh, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky brambly bitterness and smoky acidity, while the tannins are bright and smooth, flowing into a clean bitter finish that continues at length. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats or vegetables.

2 stars

Agricola Vallone Tenuta Serranova Vigna Castello rosso Salento IGT 2007
This is a cru, and it's the first vintage. 70% Negroamaro, and 30% Susumaniello, a traditional varietal that was present in the vineyards -- planted in rows in the vineyard to be blended into the wine. It's lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by warmth and cedar, with a fair amount of nose tingling acidity as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively plum acidity, and by tannins that are still quite young, and need time to fold their oaky component into the wine. The finish is pleasant, with plum accents and nice smooth tannins; it does need another year or two for the tnnins to completely smooth. It will be worth waiting for, and future vintages should be interesting.

2 stars

On our last night we tasted two vintages of Agricola Vallone's most renowned wine, Graticciaia. This is a Negroamaro in Purezza, and we had the current vintage, the 2004, followed by the 1998 vintage. They are very different; in part due to the arrival of a new winemaker.

Graticciaia 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with ruby rim. The bouquet is rich with red berry fruit supported by spice and some cedary duskiness. It's fairly fresh, and quite elegant. On the palate it's ample and rich with clean cherry prune fruit supported by moderate sweetness, deft prune acidity, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Considerable depth and elegance, and charged, with considerable fruit in a fairly approachable international key, and it is impressive, though it is clearly in mid stride. For where it's going, see the final considerations. .

2 stars

Graticciaia 1998
Deep black almandine with almandine garnet rim that becomes more orange at the nail; with respect to the 2004 the color is deeper and blacker. The bouquet is rich, with lively berry fruit supported by clean leaf tobacco, some underbrush, hints of truffles, and some licorice root greenness as well. Nice depth and acidity, and beautiful maturity; it has many more facets than the 2004. On the palate it's full and rich with beautiful sour cherry fruit supported by deftly measured sweetness, underbrush, deft slightly balsamic acidity, and graceful silky tannins that flow into a clean slightly balsamic finish with deft sour cherry underpinning. A beautiful wine, lithe and very much on its toes, graceful and blessed with extraordinary depth and richness and perfectly balanced.

92-3

By comparison, the 2004 is less interesting -- it's more approachable, and almost beckoning, but is softer and a bit more settled, and I think this is due to wood use -- the wine is slightly more vanilla laced, and this is due to tannins that draw from oak rather than from grape; they do an adequate job of providing support but are not as lithe, nor as graceful as the grape tannins. Nor do I think that the 2004 will evolve as the 1998 has. It is not peaking yet, but is following a different, and (to me) less interesting path.

Santi Dimitri

Santi Dimitri Aruca Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT 2008

Pale pomegranate pink with onion skin rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some red berry fruit supported by pleasant greenish acidity and peppery spice. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity -- it's not quite as bright as some, but it is old for a Rosato. It will in any case work well as an aperitif.

1 star

Santi Dimitri Aruca Negroamaro Rosso Salento IGT 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with balsamic accents mingled with prunes and jammy spice with some toasted almonds as well, and hints of vanilla -- 10% ages in barriques for a few months, while the rest ages in steel. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by moderate bitter acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum prune finish with dry tannic underpinning. Quite nice, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. Worth seeking out.

2 stars

Santa Barbara

Santa Barbara Sumanero Salento IGT 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending towards orange. This is a blend of Susumaniello, Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, using the traditional 60-20-20 blend that was produced in the Brindisino, The bouquet is intriguing, with candied prune supported by spice and greenish vegetal notes with sweetish accents; in an odd way it brings an Aleatico to mind. A great deal to say, and invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's ample, with rich berry fruit supported by sweetness and tannins that have a warm vanilla laced burr and flow into a long warm peppery finish with cedary undertones. It's very young, and needs another couple of years at least to get its bearings; it will drink well with stews or roasts, but do give it time

2 stars

Santa Barbara Ursa Major Salento IGT Rosso 2002

This is 80% Primitivo, 20% Negroamaro. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite fresh, with chalky spice and red berry fruit supported by bitterness and some lactic acid. On the palate it's quite fresh, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish with berry fruit and dry tannic underpinning. It's quite deft, and will drink very well with foods, an excellent reminder that just because a vintage has a bad reputation -- and the 2002 does -- the wines from it are not necessarily bad. Quite the contrary, they can be surprisingly good.

2 stars

Toremaresca

This is an Antinori estate.

Toremaresca Primitivo Salento IGT 2007

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by pleasant floral accents. Quite fresh. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a dusky burr in the finish, which is bitter and fruit laced. The Italian word that comes to mind is ammiccante; it's a very approachable wine that gives one a come-hither look, and though it doesn't stand out as Pugliese -- it has more of an Antinori imprint to it than a local imprint -- it will drink quite well with foods, and if you like this sort of fairly rich fruit driven wine you will enjoy it.

2 stars

Tormaresca Masseria Maìme Negroamaro Salento IGT

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. Quite charged. The bouquet is dusky, with smoky accents a fair amount of graphite bitterness with some leafy underbrush as well. On the palate it's seductive, and ample with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm cedary vanilla overlay and flow into a decidedly oaky finish with considerable tongue drying cedar and lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a very international key, but needs another couple of years for all the various pieces to come together.

1 star

Tenute Rubino

Tenute Rubino Torretesta Salento IGT Rosso 2006

This is a Susumaniello in purezza. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is interesting, with prune cherry fruit that has some greenish accents and an underlying sweetness; with swishing underbrush also emerges and so does some wood smoke. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight vanilla burr to it, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with -- again -- some cedar that continues at length. Pleasant, and more of a food wine than a wine to be sipped. Also a wine that will age nicely for 5-8 years or more.

2 stars

Note: Susamaniello was an interesting discovery; it is a varietal that is probably Dalmatian in origin, and owes its name to the fact that in youth the vines produce considerable fruit, loading themselves up like donkeys -- "susumaniello" in Pugliese. The grapes are medium-sized, quite dark, and ripen in September, producing wines that develop interesting flavor and aroma profiles with time. The varietal is being reevaluated, and garnering considerable interest, both for use in purezza and as a blending varietal. Rubino, according to an online source, ahs 20 hectares under vine.

Tenute Rubino Negroamaro Salento IGT 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intriguing, with deft floral accents that bring Aleatico to mind, mingled with cherry fruit and some greenish spice. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with lively cherry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity that has a slight greenish cast, and by smooth sweet tannins that are relatively light, and flow into a clean prune plum finish with cherry accents, and some acidity. Pleasant, in a graceful, willowy key, and it's very deft on its toes, a wine that will work well with hearty pasta dishes, thick soups, and quickly grilled meats or light stews. Very bright, and enjoyable; Worth seeking out. If you like this lighter, defter style.

88-90

Apollonio

Apollonio Divoto Copertino Rosso DOC Riserva 2001

This is a blend of Negroamaro and Montepulciano. It's deep brick ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by wood smoke and underbrush, and a fair amount of cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense plum prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly cedar-laced cast, and vanilla as well, and flow into a clean vanilla laced finish. It's heavily oaked, but has absorbed the oak well, and if you like this style you will enjoy it. A big wine, and one that will work well with foods. There's also some residual jammy sweetness to the fruit, plum jam.

2 stars

Apollonio Terragnolo Primitivo Salento Rosso IGT 2004

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky, with a fair amount of cedar and some sweetish accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by jammy sweetness and moderate acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth, with a vanilla overlay that carries into the finish, which becomes a bit tarter with some smoky accents. Like the Divoto, it has been fed a load of oak, but has digested it better, and if you like well oaked wines you will like it. If you prefer wines that are more fruit driven, it's not going to work as well for you.

2 stars

Cantele

Cantele Alticelli Fiano Salento IGT Bianco 2008

This is a Fiano related to the Cambpanian Fiani. It's brassy golden green with brassy reflections and brilliant greenish highlights. The bouquet is rich, with lemony citric accents mingled with hints of gunflint and deft acidity. Bracing and quite zesty. On the palate it's bright, with rich honeydew melon laced with greenish accents and supported by bright, zesty citric acidity that's more towards lime than lemon, and flows into a long warm citric finish with pleasing greenish peppery accents, and some greenish tannic notes as well. Quite pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with rich fish dishes, including fried fish, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. It will age nicely for 3-5 years, and will be perfect in summer months. It spends time on the lees, which add further complexity as well.

88-90

Cantele Alticelli Aglianico Puglia IGT 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rich, with dusky underbrush laced with berry fruit and clean cedar, supported by some bitter graphite shavings and spice. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright acidic finish. Deft, with a nice balance between wood, acidity, and fruit, and will drink quite well with foods, ranging from grilled meats and light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Anything but settled, and quite enjoyable; though the small oak is evident, you will enjoy it even if you're more traditionally minded.

2 stars

Cantele Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2006

The DOC says the wine must be 80% Negroamaro, and now people are shifting to considerably higher percentages if not leaving out the Malvasia Nera that was once added, directly in the vineyard, entirely. The wine is deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with prune cherry fruit supported by greenish accents, some underbrush, and decidedly jammy overtones -- prune jam; with more swishing some dusky graphite shavings also emerge. On the palate it's ample and rich, with jammy plum prune fruit supported by smoky acidity and clean rather bitter tannins that flow into a clean fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with red meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Nice fruit, and quite approachable.

88-90

Negroamaro produces large bunches and large grapes within the bunches, which are quite compact. Some Negroamaro vines produce smaller bunches with more loosely packed grapes, but at Cantele they are just beginning to study it.

Cantele Teresa Manara IGT Salento 2006

This is Negroamaro, some from Alberello vineyards and some from vineyards that are not. It's poured pyrope ink with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up prune fruit supported by delicate floral accents and some vegetal notes, with some underlying graphite shavings. Much more concentration. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean deft berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and have a deft cedar laced burr with lasting warmth, and flow into a long warm peppery finish. It's quite nice, though very young, and needs another year or two to get its bearings. It will work quite well with grilled meats or stews, including stewed game, and will age well for 8-10 years. It needs time, because the oak is fairly intense.

2 stars

Cantele Amativo Salento IGT 2006

This is a blend of 60% Primitivo and 40% Negroamaro; it's inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by some underbrush, and by a fair amount of cedar and savory accents. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by tannins that have a distinct oaky finish. It's pleasant, but needs time to absorb the oak it has been fed. Nice fruit, but the oak is a bit overpowering right now.

2 stars

Feudi di Guagnano

They have 15 hectares of vineyards, and founded the winery to keep the Alberello vineyards their fathers had tended (sending the grapes to the cooperatives) from being abandoned. Alas, their neighbors want to replace their crops with photovoltaic panels and produce electricity.

Feudi di Guagnano Nero di Velluto Negroamaro IGT Salento 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with prune fruit mingled with green leather and spice, and a fair amount of peppery spice and cedar; the grapes are dried for a month before pressing, and this concentrates and develops the aromas, which bring to mind some wines of the Veneto; as it opens interesting almond accents and jammy sweetness emerge. On the palate it's ample, with sweet prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean velvety finish. It's rich, fruity, and very smooth, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much. It's not for everyone, but it will find its aficionados. Impressive, if you like the style.

2 stars

Feudi di Guagnano Cupone Salice Salentino DOC Riserva 2003

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly pungent, with smoke and penetrating accents at the outset, and as it opens reveals jammy prune fruit. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that that flow into a clean jammy berry fruit finish. It's interesting, and though very extracted and quite ripe, not too overripe, and is pleasant to drink. An interesting expression of the wine, and particular too; it is a wine you will either like or not. But if you do it has quite a bit to say.

2 stars

Leone de Castris

Leone de Castris Eloveni Negroamaro IGT Salento 2008

This is fermented in steel, and sees no wood; it is left with slightly higher residual sugar. Violet with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity. Pleasant, and approachable. On the palate it's rich, with fairly sweet, jammy raspberry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly sweet jammy finish. There are residual sugars, which make the wine very approachable, and will work for introducing those who prefer sweeter wines. More "sophisticated" wine lovers will likely prefer a drier wine, but if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's easy to drink and quite versatile too.

2 stars

Leone de Castris Salice Salentino Riserva 50esima Vendemmia 2005

This is 95% Negroamaro, and some Malvasia Nera, and is aged in tonneaux. Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky underbrush and prune cherry fruit supported by cloves and some balsamic notes, with underlying sweetness and slight prune jam accents. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich prune berry fruit supported by moderate leafy acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly sweet prune finish with spicy overtones, more from grape than wood -- nutmeg and some clove. It's approachable in a rather old style, but has a rather tired feel to it.

1 star

Castello Monaci

Castello Monaci Maru Negroamaro Salento IGT 2008

20% of this wine spends a few months in barriques; the remainder is in steel. Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and jammy, with prune plum fruit supported by floral accents and some spice, and some cedar. Quite fresh. On the palate it's ample and quite rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by moderate prune acidity that is sufficient to provide direction, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight cedar overlay and flow into a fairly long fairly sweet prune finish. Pleasant in a decidedly fruit driven soft key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter, more nervous wines it won't work as well for you, but if you like the style it is pleasant, and will work well with drier meats.

2 stars

Castello Monaci L'Artas Primitivo IGT Salento 2007

This is from grapes raised in Alberello, and spends a year in barriques. It's impenetrable pyrope with barely visible black reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up wood smoke acidity, savory accents, and the inside of a pumpkin (one writes what one smells). Decidedly savory. On the palate it's ample, with rich prune fruit supported by spicy tannins with peppery accents that flow into a clean cedar laced peppery finish with prune underpinning that's fairly dry. The wood has a powerful influence upon the wine, but it is pleasant in a big, opulent fruit driven key, and if you like this large rather soft style you will enjoy it. In a year or two it will work well as a sipping wine if you like the style.

2 stars

Taurino Cosimo

Taurino Cosimo Salice Salentino Riserva DOC 2006

Negroamaro and 15-20% Malvasia Nera; it's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with prune berry fruit and some nutmeg mingled with prunes and deft acidity that is fairly bright, and some smoky underbrush. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh fairly tart finish. It's quite drinkable, and will drink very well with succulent red meats or light stews; with respect to many of the other Salice Salentino wines we have tastes the grapes are not less ripe, but not overripe, and this is a very refreshing change. It's quite pleasant, and well worth seeking out. One of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.

90-91

Taurino Cosimo patriglione Salento IGT Rosso 2003

This is a cru that with a delayed harvest from a Negroamaro vineyard with 80 year old vines. It does spend 12-14 months in barriques, and is aged in tanks for a time too. It's inky pyrope with almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by nutmeg and cloves, and also some cedar. Very complex, and still very young; one wouldn't think that it is from a very hot vintage. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins with lasting warmth that flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Most impressive, and a wine that's well worth seeking out. Even if you like more traditional wines, you will like this, because it has a great deal to say.

92-4

Sigillo Primo

Sigillo Primo Salento IGT Primitivo 2007

This spends three months on barriques; it's inky pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with prune fruit supported by jammy sweetness and some greenish accents. Supported by a fair amount of alcohol, which imparts further sweetness. On the palate it's ample and quite sweet, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm prune finish with dusky tannic underpinning. It's quite ripe, but pleasant in a big soft fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.

2 stars

Sigillo Primo Hilliryos Salice Salentino DOC 2007

This is a blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera, and is impenetrable pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and some jammy fruit supported by some cedar and hints of leafy underbrush. Quite concentrated. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with full sweet prune fruit supported by moderately intense prune acidity that has some nutmeg overtones, and flows into a fairly rich berry fruit finish. It's very big, very soft, and rather sweet; if you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. Because of the softness of the wine, I would drink it with drier meats.

1 star

Emèra

Emèra Anima di Primitivo Salento Rosso Primitivo IGT 2008

Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The wine spends a few months in steel, but no wood. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by some animal notes -- it brings a sweaty blonde to mind -- and there are also mentholated notes as it opens. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with prune fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant, and will drink well with drier meats; if you like bigger softer fruit driven wines you will enjoy it very much. The lack of wood is quite refreshing.
2 stars

Eméra Salice Salentino DOC 2007

This is the classic 80-20 blend of Negroamaro and Malvasia Nera. It's impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and purple rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with wood smoke and greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with soft berry fruit supported by clean cedar laced tannins that flow into a fairly rich plum finish. It's a bit drier and less interesting than the Anima di Primitivo.

1 star

Torrevento: Fine Wines from Puglia

Torrevento is one of the largest Puglian wine producers, with holdings in all the major , and about 400 hectares under vine. Like most large Puglian wineries, they started out selling cistern wines, inky tannic things with high alcohol contents that other winemakers further north would buy by the cisterna (a tank truck is an autocisterna) to bolster whatever it is that they were making where they happened to be.

However, when the younger generation joined in, in 1990, they decided to start putting their own name on the bottles. It took a while for the established wine press to notice this new development, but with time a steady stream of successes has ensued.

Francesco Liantonio told us that they were among the first to work seriously with Nero di Troia, the northern Puglian grape that is currently attracting a great deal of attention. It hasn't always, however, because, by comparison with some of the other southern red varietals it gives low yields: At the most 95 quintals/hectare, and though this is a lot by the standards of quality wine making (especially further north, where the sun is less intense), those in the business of making blending wines needed more to turn a decent profit.

So while others were stripping it out, Francesco and his associates were among the few who were looking at it with a different eye, and liking what they saw. They also grow other autochthonous southern varietals, and in the course of a meal at Florence's Ristorante Oliviero we were treated to a very pleasant sampling of their production. We began with:

Matervitae Bombino Bianco Puglia IGT 2007
Brassy gold with brassy reflections. Rich bouquet with considerable citrus that gains depth from herbal accents and some green apricot. On the palate it's fairly rich with clean rather languid lemony fruit with green apricot accents flowing into a long green apricot finish. Pleasant in a direct, up front key, and will work well as an aperitif, or with fish or cheese-based antipasti, and also with fish-based pasta dishes or risotti, or with grilled or roasted fish or white meats. In short, versatile, and impressive for an entry-level wine.
2 stars

Followed by Reds:

Torre del Falco Murgia IGT Nero Di Troia 2006
This is another entry-level wine; it's deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a direct, fairly rich bouquet with jammy red berry fruit supported by some spice and hints of caramel from the grapes (no wood). On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich dry cherry fruit supported by underbrush and moderate acidity, while there is also considerable graphite bitterness in the tannins that's typical of Nero di Troia, and provides both backbone and depth. Direct, up front, and will drink nicely with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and other like dishes. A wine that doesn't demand attention, but rather supports what it's served with, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Vigna Pedale Castel del Monte DOC Rosso Riserva 2004
This is a Nero di Troia, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with lively cherry rim. Poured ink; Francesco tells us some of the vineyards are 30 years old, and that they're trained in part to the traditional Alberello style (free standing bushes) and to Spalliera, rows with strung wires providing support. Returning to the wine, the bouquet is delicate, with fairly rich floral accents and clean forest berry fruit -- currants in particular -- laced with spice. Nice depth and pleasing elegance. On the palate it's ample, with clean rich forest berry fruit supported by moderate blackberry acidity and by tannins that are ample, with clean graphite bitterness that continues at length, becoming dusty as it fades, and this is a factor of youth; the wine will become silky with age, and has the capacity to age well for many years. It will work well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, or white meats too, for example turkey or roast beef sliced fairly thick. 200,000 bottles of this wine are produced yearly, and to be frank I'm impressed. This sort of quality usually comes in smaller volumes and at less favorable quality/price ratios (we were given cellar prices, which I am not passing on since the path a wine takes en route can have a tremendous impact upon price).
90-91

Sine Nomine Salice Salentino DOC Rosso Riserva 2003
A more southerly Puglian wine that's 90% Negroamaro and 10% Malvasia Nera; it's impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim and has a vinous bouquet with jammy berry fruit and some gum Arabic mingled with wet earth and moderate spice. Very young. On the palate it's full, ample, and very smooth, with rich clean cherry fruit that has some balsamic accents mingled with underbrush, and is supported by clean sweet smooth tannins that flow into a smooth berry fruit finish. Graceful and elegant in a very approachable key; it doesn't have quite the depth of the Vigna Pedale, but is quite enjoyable and will drink very well with drier meats, for example roast turkey or an arista (roast boned pork loin). Again, excellent quality/price ratio.
88-90

Kebir Puglia IGT Rosso 2002
Puglia was one of the few parts of Italy not to suffer from the dreadfully wet summer weather in 2002 -- simply because it didn't rain, and hasn't rained much any summer since then either, with the result that Torrevento is sinking deep wells from which to provide the water necessary to keep the vines alive. Returning to the wine, Keber, which means sovereign in Arabic and is a bow to Federico II, the Holy Roman Emperor who was excommunicated for his openness with respect to Araby: It's their one nod to international tastes, a blend of Nero di Troia and Cabernet Sauvignon that spends 14 months in barriques, and is inky pigeon blood ruby with violet highlights. Deft bouquet, with forest berry fruit supported by some grassy herbal accents, spice, and hints of underbrush. Inviting, and the Cabernet is quite apparent, but doesn't overpower the Nero di Troia. On the palate it's smooth, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by moderate spice and very smooth ample tannins, while there is sufficient acidity to provide direction, and it flows into a smooth finish. Quite elegant in an approachable international key, and is a wine you will enjoy greatly if you like large, smooth fruit driven wines. It will work well with flavorful, fairly dry meats, or also by the glass farther from the table. As with the others, fine quality/price ratio.
2 stars

And Finished With Another White:

Dulcis in Fundo Moscato di Trani DOC Dolce 2006
This would be more alcoholic, but they interrupt the fermentation when it reaches 12%, leaving sufficient sugar to produce another 3-4% alcohol were it to ferment. It's brassy gold with slight apricot highlights, and has a pleasant bouquet that combines rich honeydew melon with green apricot and quite a bit of sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with languid full honeydew melon fruit that gains depth and contrast from bitter accents that gradually emerge, coming to overshadow the sweetness in the finish. Pleasant and will work quite well with dry patisserie, and is also a wine one could meditate over.
2 stars.

Bottom Line: I'm impressed. They have done a fine job of converting from vini da taglio, blending wines, to first-rate south Italian wines, and have done so while keeping a tight rein on prices -- though I won't give exact figures, everything we tasted sells for under 10 Euros, and most considerably under -- making the wines quite attractive to consumers.

In addition to making wine, Torrevento also makes olive oil, which they are not yet selling, and they grow durum wheat and make high quality pasta, which is for now aimed at the restaurant trade, though with time they hope to expand to quality retailers too.

Want to know more? Check out Torrevento's Site.