Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines

Dolcetto is Piemonte's traditional every day wine, and rightly so: It's light, fruity, lively, with moderate acidity, and a pleasant bitter almond tannic bite that allows it to go very well with foods. It's also as a rule quite fresh, with pleasant floral and bitter almond accents on the nose that only make it more inviting.

From a commercial standpoint, however, Dolcetto's fortunes have waned in the past 30 years, in part because of decreasing local consumption -- in the past, come fall, areas whose Dolcetto grapes were especially good were mobbed by people buying grapes to make wine at home, but those days are now gone -- and in part because Piemonte's Nebbiolo-based wines, Barolo and Barbaresco especially, have grabbed the international limelight thanks to their complexity and aging capacity.

Complexity, for Dolcetto, is not a problem, quite the contrary (incidentally, despite its name -- Dolce means sweet -- the wine Dolcetto is dry; the name probably derives from the fact that Dolcetto grapes are low in acidity and therefore taste especially sweet when chewed upon). What is, on the international stage, I think, is that it is not a wine for long aging, but is rather best enjoyed within 2-3 years of the harvest, after which time the delightful floral aromas and freshness begin to give way to more tertiary aromas of leaves and underbrush, while the fruit, which doesn't have that much acidity to support it, begins to settle. People find a bottle from Piemonte, whose wines have a reputation for long aging, buy it without noting the vintage, find something past its prime, and decide once burned twice shy.

Therefore, for consumers outside of Piemonte Dolcetto is a potential diamond in the rough, a delightful day-to-day wine awaiting discovery. They simply have to remember to look for the current vintages, which at present would be the 2010 and the 2009; I might also buy a 2008 but would be more cautious with a 2007 and ask to taste a bottle before I bought several.

And Dolcetto di Diano?

The Dolcetto varietal grows well in a broad swath of southern Piemonte, from the hills around Ovada and Acqui, though the Astigiano, and on past Alba to Diano and Dogliani; with respect to Nebbiolo it is more tolerant to altitude, and some of the best Dolcetto comes from vineyards that are higher than those where Nebbiolo is grown.

Diano is one of the two areas near Alba that is especially suited to Dolcetto (the other is Dogliani); it's located south of Alba and west of the Barolo production area, and the town proper sits upon a high ridge formed by a thick sequence of pale interbedded clays and more compact calcareous layers; if you drive up to the town on a sunny day the bedrock, where it crops out, is almost blindingly white. The soils the vines grow on are clayey and calcareous, and the Disciplinare governing production states that the vineyards must be on sunny hillsides; flat ground, damp areas, northern exposures, and altitudes greater than 550 meters above sea level are forbidden. Minimum planting density is 3,500 vines per hectare (about 2.5 acres), and the maximum allowable yield of grapes is 8 metric tons per hectare (this translates into about 5,600 liters of wine); this is, by modern standards, generous, and many winemakers will reduce production to increase complexity and concentration.

In addition to the Vino Base released the spring after the harvest, winemakers can also make Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore, which must age for at least 10 months prior to release.

There is one element of confusion to Diano: Since it has long been known for Dolcetto, and the name "Dolcetto di Diano" doesn't stand out that much from the various other Docetti made in the area, at some point some of the winemakers in Diano began simply labeling their bottles "Diano D'Alba." The custom is by now well established, and therefore depending upon the winemaker, you will find either Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba or simply Diano D'Alba.

Enough talk. I tasted the wines this spring, in a tasting organized by the folks at Albeisa for journalists attending the Nebbiolo Prima presentation of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. They made for a very different, and very enjoyable change of pace.

Veglio Giovanni Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Lively ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by clean spice and some peppery accents; Fresh. On the palate it's bright and rich, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by violets and some bitter almond accents coupled with clean bright acidity; the tannins are lively and substantial as Dolcetto's are wont to be. A classic Dolcetto that will go quickly.
2 stars

Savigliano Fratelli Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with violets and some vegetal accents supported by berry fruit and slight acidity. On the palate it's powerful with intense violet-laced plum cherry fruit -- it's a bit riper than some -- supported by dusky tannins that have powerful bitter accents and flow into a decidedly bitter finish mitigated by some berry fruit. Pleasant but more charged, a wine that I would find excessive for daily use, though it will work well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Veglio Michelino Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Barrel Sample
Ruby with purple highlights. Nice bouquet, with berry fruit that has some sour notes and bitter almonds. Quite fresh. The palate is bright, with rich fruit supported by tannins that have a bitter bite and nice acidity. Promising.

Veglio Michelino Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Pale ruby with violet reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with violets and raspberry cherry fruit supported by deft acidity. Quite graceful. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweet tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a bright slightly mineral berry fruit finish. Graceful, and will go very fast.
88-90

Cantina Salvano Fosco Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Distinctive bottle with string tie and red sealing wax to top the string. Inky violet. The bouquet is powerful and a bit dusky, with berry fruit supported by violets and greenish vegetal accents, some hardwood ash, spice, and slight lactic acid. Gives an impression of extraction. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by slight berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are very smooth and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's an extreme wine with respect to the others, rounder and smoother, and is not what I'd call a day-to-day wine; drink it with drier meats, and you will enjoy it if you like the charged style.
2 stars

Abrigo Fratelli Vigna Pietrin Diano D'Alba Superiore DOCG 2009

Lively violet ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, with violets and red berry fruit supported by some menthol and slight peppery spice. Quite fresh. On the palate it's full and quite round, with fairly powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from greenish almond bitterness and flows into a fairly long warm cherry finish with bitter underpinning. Pleasant, and as one would expect from its being a Superiore, it's not a day-to-day wine, but one that will work nicely with more substantial meat dishes.
2 stars

Alario Claudio Costa Figre Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a duskier key, with violets and wet leather mingled with berry fruit and some wood smoke; it's not quite as fresh as some. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, and by moderate acidity. I found it somewhat settled.
1 star

Abrigo Giovanni Sorì dei Crava Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

The wine had just been bottled, and was somewhat shocked, with a muted nose that was not together. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by savory balsamic accents and spice coupled with warm berry fruit acidity, flowing into a long warm rather balsamic finish. It promises well in a fairly graceful, not explosive key.

Abrigo Giovanni Garabei Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Lively violet with white rim and black reflections. The bouquet is fresh and floral, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some lactic acidity -- scalded milk -- and by fresh spice; it's graceful but not explosive. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by minerality and delicate spice that flow into a clean slightly spicy finish, while the tannins are very smooth and flow into a slightly bitter finish. A modern delicate, slightly more restrained rendition of Dolcetto.
2 stars

Rigo Secondo Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

A note: I had tasted this at Vinitaly, and because of the time allotted at Diano simply swished it, sniffed, and tasted, and wrote very good after jotting a score of 88-90. The note below is from Vinitaly, where, as you will note, the score was the same.

Lively cherry with violet accents. The bouquet is classic, with rich violets mingled with berry fruit and bitter almonds, and hints of underbrush as well, and some deft spice that keeps things moving right along. On the palate it's quite nice, with rich prune laced fruit shot with violets and graphite bitterness and warmth, and supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a graphite shaving bitter burr and flow into a clean fresh finish. A classic Dolcetto that will drink very well with simple grilled meats, or light stews, and that will also be a nice cookout wine, working well with both hot and cold foods.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Produttori Dianesi Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Lively ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and bright greenish acidity. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively cherry and berry fruit supported by sweet tannins and some almond bitterness. Very approachable, though somewhat lighter than some, and will drink quickly with simple foods, including drier meats. You'll likely want a second bottle.
2 stars

Prandi Giovanni Sörì Colombè Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Lively violet with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and some scalded milk -- it was bottle shocked, and the palate provides a better indication; it's bright, fairly light, and more acidic than many, with sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish peppery burr and flow into a bright sour cherry and raspberry finish with pleasant bitter almond underpinning. It's a wine to set out and drink, and will go fast, with simple grilled meats, or fired meats and vegetables too.
2 stars

Poderi Sinaglio Sorì Bric Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and berry fruit supported by some greenish spice and deft greenish acidity, as well as hints of sweetness. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense cherry and red berry fruit with some raspberry accents supported by moderate acidity and some sweetness, with underlying tannins whose burr provides definition. It's a little lighter than some, and very easy to drink. Expect it to vanish.
2 stars

Briccomaiolica Sorì Bricco Maiolica Diano D'Alba Superiore DOCG 2009

Deep violet ruby with violet reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is reduced at first sniff, but as it oxygenates reveals red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by warmth and slightly balsamic tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish. It's more heavy set than some of the others, and lacks that light deftness that distinguishes some of the other Diani.
1 star

Boffa F.lli Sorì Paradiso Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Violet with violet rim. The bouquet is bright, with violets and berry fruit supported by greenish accents, and still coming together but promising. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by red berry fruit sweetness and tannins that have a dusky burr, and by sour berry fruit accents that flow into a warm tart blackberry finish with clean tannic underpinning. It will go quite fast and be quite versatile.
2 stars

Camparo Sorì Bric Camparo Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some lactic accents and berry fruit; it's still coming together. On the palate it's rich and rather sweet, with violets and red berry fruit supported by tannins more than acidity and flows into a warm tannic finish. It's more extracted and sweeter than most, and also more particular, though some berry fruit acidity does emerge in the finish to confer warmth.
1 star

Casavecchia Sorì Bruni Diano D'Alba 2010

Deep violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with violets and some bitter accents mingled with some herbal accents and bitter greenish almond notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with some dusky bitter notes. Pleasant and will drink quickly; though there is some vegetal acidity it's not quite as bright as some of the others.
2 stars

Renzo Castella Enotecnico Rivolta Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet ruby with lively cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violet laced sour berry fruit supported by dusky bitter almonds, clean spice, and some vegetal accents with slight underlying sweetness. The palate is bright, with lively cherry and blackberry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with a slight spicy burr, and flow into a clean, fresh, cherry and forest berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with everything from fried foods to quickly grilled meats to the fixings of a cookout.
88-90

Angelo Colla Sorì du Rabin Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and berry fruit laced with bitter almonds and some elegant greenish accents. Very pleasant to sniff, and as it opens slight candied fruit accents also emerge. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly sweet cherry blackberry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that flow into a fairly bright mineral tannic finish with berry fruit underpinning. It's a bit sweeter than some (though not a sweet wine), and this will make it that much more approachable for those who prefer wines that are not aggressive, while it does have complexities for the "serious" wine drinker too. In short, versatile and for a broad audience.
2 stars

Il Palazzotto Vigna Santa Lucia Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight underbrush; it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by warmth and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. A little less bright than some, and a little more languid.
2 stars

Gerlotto Sorì Vigna Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets and berry fruit laced with blackberry sweetness and some underbrush. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity that has some bitter accents, and flows into a clean fresh tannic finish. Quite pleasant, and will be extremely versatile at table.
2 stars

Cascina Sorba G.e.m.m.a. Cascina Sorba Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and some spice mingled with vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with fairly bright fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth tannins; by comparison with some of the others the bitter almond accents typical of Dolcetto are less pronounced.
2 stars

Le Cecche Diano D'Alba DOCG

Impenetrable deep violet ink with violet rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by violets and by some bitter almonds, with greenish vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's fresh, with bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins and dusky bitterness with pleasing savory notes too. Pleasant and quite approachable thanks also to richness of fruit; it will work very well with foods and go quite fast.
2 stars

The 2010 Bardolino

Bardolino is one of the finest quaffing wines there is: welcoming ruby that brings life to the table, and (ideally) bright fruit supported by lively acidity and deft light tannins, a combination that makes for an extremely refreshing wine well suited to hearty soups or pasta dishes, quickly grilled or fried meats, light stews, and casseroles and the like. In short, versatile, and a fine choice for day-to-day drinking.

Like its more substantial cousin produced in the highlands of the Valpolicella, Bardolino is a blend, made primarily from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara. Unlike its cousin it's released young, just a few months after the harvest, and this year we have the 2010 vintage, which was relatively cool and wet, making for lively acidities and in many cases rather brambly fruit. Good food wines that will support what they are served with, but not demand center stage.

The wines, tasted on March 6 2011, in the order listed in the Banco D'Assaggio Catalog:

Aldo Adami

Aldo Adami Bardolino 2010
Lively pale ruby with slight hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with sour cherries and raspberries mingled with floral accents and slight bramble. Cheeky. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly bitter finish with tannic underpinning and some dusky bitterness. A pleasant food wine that will go very fast.
2 stars

Fulvio Benazzoli

Fulvio Benazzoli Bardolino 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, with some brambly accents and underlying be supported by a fair amount of brambly acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by slightly greenish brambly acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do have a burr to them, and flow into a clean slightly greenish sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a scrappy key and will work very well with foods, including the fried meats and vegetables that are nice on a hot day.
2 stars

Bergamini

Bergamini Bardolino 2010
Barrel sample
Lively pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pungent in a rustic key, with wet stable straw and earthiness overlaying some spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense decidedly vegetal fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr, while the earthy barnyard notes present in the nose reemerge in the finish, where the tannins also scrape out over the tongue. It's a more rustic interpretation of Bardolino, and if you like the style you will like it. But you have to like the style.

Bolla

Bolla Bardolino Classico 2010
Slightly deeper cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is brambly, with some red berry fruit and greenish savory spice -- sea salt in spades. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by savory minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that leave a warm greenish burr over the tongue, and flow into a clean greenish berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a rather scrappy key, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light roasts, and also has the wherewithal to work with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Vinicio Bronzo

Vinicio Bronzo Bardolino 2010
Pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some sour cherry fruit supported by hot iron and greenish accents; it's still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright lively acidity and moderate berry fruit, supported by some minerality and tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight greenish burr,, while there are also slight sweetish accents that I found distracting, and that interfere some with the wine's definition.
1 star

Cà Bottura

Cà Bottura Bardolino Classico Cà Bottura 2010
Pale cherry ruby with a slight orange cast and brilliant reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brambly berry fruit mingled with licorice root and eucalyptus bitterness, and with savory minerality and slight stable straw as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory --salty even --sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly light, with a slight greenish burr that flows into a fairly long warm finish. Pleasant, in a light scrappy key and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also be a good bet at a cookout, There's not quite enough acidity for it to work really well with fried meats.
2 stars

Cà Dei Colli

Cà Dei Colli Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly sour, with some candied cherry accents as well and an underlying greenness. It's an aroma cast you will either like or not. On the palate it's bright, with intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a long sour finish with lasting warmth and some sea salt. It's quite aggressive, and if you like the style will work very well with fattier foods, for example grilled sausages (and the other rich fixings of a cookout) or fried meats and vegetables. If you prefer wines that show more polish and restraint it won't work for you.
1 star

Cantina di Custoza

Cantina di Custoza Bardolino 2010
Slightly deeper cherry ruby than some, with brilliant pigeon blood ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit duskier than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and minerality, but not so much the sourness displayed by most of the others; rather there are slight jammy accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich slightly greenish cherry plum fruit supported more by savory minerality than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and soft, flowing into a slightly peppery dusky cherry plum finish. It's a bit softer than the norm, and if you like wines that have nice ripe but not excessively so savory fruit you will enjoy it, and indeed it will go quickly. If you're looking for something more aggressive it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Cantina di Custoza Bardolino Val di Molini 2010
Deep black cherry ruby with pigeon blood ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is richer than the base, with minerality and some jammy accents overshadowing some dusky accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are smooth, with a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly quick rather mineral finish. It's clearly made with care, but -- to my way of thinking -- the grapes ripened slightly overmuch, and as a result there is less acidity than I might have hoed for, and this makes it a little less lively and a little less interesting.
1 star

Giuseppe Campagnola Giuseppe Campagnola Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010 Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. More charged than some. The bouquet is dusky, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by some graphite shavings and some alcohol as well; there isn't that much acidity but there are some vegetal accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm burr, sea salt, and warm sour cherry acidity that gradually emerges and carries at length in the finish, which has a dry tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, lively but not tremendously aggressive, and ripe, and will drink well with meat based pasta dishes including stuffed pasta, simple grilled meats, and also has the acidity to work well with fried foods. In short, versatile. It made me think.
2 stars

Campostrini

Campostini Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with brambly berry fruit supported by sour accents and some sea salt minerality; it's bright and rather scrappy. On the palate it's fairly light, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and slightly greenish tannins, while there is sea salt and minerality to provide depth, and it flows into a rather dusky sour cherry finish with some butter underpinning. Pleasant in a zesty key, and will drink well with fattier grilled meats (or even a rich cheeseburger), hearty pasta dishes, and also fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Canella

Canella Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale slightly orange ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is dusky, with underbrush and wet bark mingled with some sour berry fruit and some minerality. It gives an impression of coming together yet. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sour berry fruit acidity that displays slight hints of stable straw, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's a little lighter than some, and also more aggressive, with bright acidity, and if you like the style it will work very well with simple grilled meats, including fattier things such as lamb chops or sausages, and also with fried meats and vegetables. A good cookout wine too, and in the proper situation it will be perfect.
2 stars

Cantina Caorsa

Cantina Caorsa Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish balsamic accents mingled with stable straw and considerable sea salt; it's a bit more rustic than some. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by minerality and sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are fairly green and flow into a clean dusky finish with tannic vegetal -- almost artichoke petal -- overtones. It's fairly aggressive, and will work well with grilled meats, including fatter things such as lamb chops, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Pleasant in a rather aggressive key, and if you like the style the bottle will go quickly.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Classico Vintage 2010
Pale slightly cloudy (do they filter?) cherry ruby with lively reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly brambly, with greenish accents and some minerality mingled with graphite bitterness, but not so much fruit -- some cherry, supported by minerality and sea salt, but it's not intense at this stage. On the palate it's light, with moderately intense rather dusky cherry fruit supported more by minerality and brambly tannins than acidity, and this makes a little flatter than it might have otherwise been, while the finish is decidedly green, and dry. Because of this it will work well with fattier foods that beg something tannic to clear the palate between bites.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Classico Cà Vegar 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy slightly greenish cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sweetness and slight minerality; there's not much acidity and the fruit has a slightly cooked feel to it. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense lour cherry raspberry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by peppery tannins that flow into a fairly long peppery finish with some berry fruit, but not much. I found it flatter than many, and found myself wishing for greater brightness.
1 star

Cantina di Castelnuovo di Garda Bardolino Rubens 2010
Lively pale cherry ruby with bright reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly slightly greenish acidity and slight berry fruit, though not that much; there is also slight eucalyptus and licorice root, and some sea salt. On the palate it's fairly bright, with moderately intense sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by glancing tannins and by considerable sour currant and berry fruit acidity that flows into a long warm finish. It's fairly bright, and approachable, and will work nicely with simple meat based pasta dishes or light stews, and also simple grilled meats. It a wine to set out with food, and you can expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Casaretti

Casaretti Bardolino Classico 2010
Barrel sample
Pale ruby with black reflections and ruby highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by some slightly greenish acidity and sea salt, and by some dusky balsamic notes, with hints of barnyard tang as well. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by cherry currant acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth and have a slight greenish burr, flowing into a fairly long savory finish. It's promising, and if it continues to develop this way will be quite pleasant in a light, bright key.

Natale Castellani

Natale Castellani Bardolino Cà Dei Rotti 2010
Fairly rich cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some brambly cherry and forest berry fruit supported by slight menthol and underlying tartness. It's still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by savory notes and warm sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and rather soft, flowing into a fairly long tart finish. It's quite pleasant, in a somewhat softer key; there is all the acidity to provide life and zest, while the tannins aren't as aggressive as they are in some of the wines. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with hearty pasta dishes, grilled meats including fatter cuts such as lamb chops or sausages, and also with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Cavalchina

Cavalchina Bardolino 2010
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather aggressive in a rustic key, with some wet stable straw mingled with dusky underbrush and graphite shavings, while there is also some slightly pungent acidity. On the palate it's fairly light, with scrappy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that flow into a warm brambly finish that's fairly long, settling into very dry tannins. It's cheeky in an old style, and if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive and has some rustic overtones, you will enjoy it. In terms of accompaniments, simple grilled meats, light stews, and hearty pasta dishes sound about right.
2 stars

Gerardo Cesari

Gerardo Cesari Bardolino Classico 2010
Deep pigeon blood ruby; it's one of the darkest of the day, with pigeon blood ruby reflections and cherry rim fading to pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by plum jam and some berry fruit acidity, and some underlying vegetal accents. On the palate it's medium bodied and fairly bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by tannins that are smooth enough, though they display a slight graphite burr, and by warm sour cherry acidity that continues into the finish as warmth, after the fruit and tannins have faded. It's a more powerful expression of Bardolino, and also a smoother one, with life from the acidity, while the tannins are not as brambly as they are in many, though they do have a dry burr. Because of their dryness it's a wine to drink with food that begs something to clear the palate between bites, e.g. a creamy meaty risotto or grilled lamb chops, and if you like the style, which is bright but not overly aggressive, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Renato Corradini

Renato Corradini Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by savory notes that bring bouillon cubes to mind, and by some alcohol. It's still coming together. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively -- more than I expected -- sour cherry fruit supported by red current acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish brambly burr and flow into a warm rather bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning that has slight hints of licorice root. It's pleasant in a fairly aggressive greenish key, and I would give the nose until summer to catch up with the palate; if you like the style it will work well with fattier grilled meats, or with fried meats and vegetables, or, if you'd rather, you could push it into service with fried fish. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Corte Fornello

Corte Fornello Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and bitterness mingled with slight barnyard tang and some savory accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky brambly tannins that have balsamic overtones, and by moderately intense more mineral than fruit driven acidity, which flow into a sour rather brambly cherry finish. It's smoother and softer, or perhaps I should say not as brash ass some, and pleasant in a fairly rich fruit driven key; the nose needs a few months to come together, but if it follows the palate it will be quite pleasant in a middle of the road key.
2 stars

Corte Gardoni

Corte Gardoni Bardolino Le Fontane 2010
Pale orange ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though with more some berry fruit and some brambly accents emerge, supported by greenish vegetal notes and slight hints of balsamic barnyard tang. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and is supported by savory accents and tannins that are slightly greenish, and flow into a long warm savory tannic finish with bright sour berry fruit acidity. Quite pleasant in a bright zesty key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Corte Gioliare

Corte Gioliare Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Fairly dark almandine ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy berry fruit mingled with cut flowers and hints of sweetness; it comes across as riper than some and as it opens some greenish accents also emerge. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky graphite bitterness and smooth sweet tannins, while there is some acidity, but not enough to make it stand up as mush as I'd have liked, and it flows into a moderately intense sour plum cherry finish.
1 star

Costadoro

Costadoro Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively slightly orange cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit laced with hints of orange and nutmeg spice, and with slight underbrush as well, and delicate sour berry fruit acidity. Pleasant though it is still coming together. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively cherry and currant acidity, and by tannins that have a slight greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean rather sour cherry finish with brambly underpinning. Graceful, and will drink very well with grilled meats, from burgers though lamb chops and sausages, and the rest of the fixings for a cookout, and will also be nice with fried foods. Expect it to go quickly, and you will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Liviana Falconi

Liviana Falconi Bardolino 2010
Deep almandine ruby; it's a touch browner and oranger than some, with bright ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and unusual, with berry fruit mingled with savory notes and wet leather that I do9n't associate with Bardolino, and also with some greenish spice. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather flat, with frankly generic berry fruit supported by some mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, flowing into a greenish peppery finish; I'd have liked more depth and verve than I found.
1 star

F.lli Marchesini

F.lli Marchesini Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit laced with graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are rather brambly, with a burr that flows into a sour berry fruit finish with some greenish underpinnings.. The nose needs a few months to catch up with the palate ,at which point the wine will work well with grilled meats or light stews, and also with fired meats and vegetables. In other words, it will be versatile, and if you like bright zesty wines you will enjoy it.
2 stars

F.lli Zeni

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Vigne Alte 2010
Lively cherry ruby with bright ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vegetal-laced red berry fruit supported by dusky graphite bitterness and some minerality, though what comes out more is the graphite, and by moderate alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish accents and by lively sour cherry acidity that again has bitter accents, and it flows into a fairly long warm spicy finish with underlying sour berry fruit. Pleasant in a zesty key, and will drink very well with foods, from succulent frilled ribs (seasoned with salt, sage and rosemary) though lamb chops, and fried meats as well.
2 stars

F.lli Zeni Bardolino Classico Zeni 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some minerality and warmth, and deft sour cherry and raspberry acidity. It's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight burr. It falters by comparison with the selezione, and I found it less interesting.
1 star

Frezza

Frezza Bardolino 2010
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections; it's darker than the norm. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sweetish vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and some squash rind. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderately intense sour cherry plum acidity that flows into a clean sour plum finish. It's a bit more settled than some of the others, and won't be as zesty, though if you prefer fairly direct fruit driven wines that are neither too ripe nor too aggressive, you will enjoy it.

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli

Susanna e Eugenio Girardelli Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with floral accents -- roses -- mingled with red berry fruit and warm spice, and also with some greenish brambly accents and hints of squash rind. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. Freshness in a glass, and will drink very well with grilled meats and the o9ther fixings of a cookout, or with fried meats and vegetables, or even fried fish. Worth seeking out if you like this rather cheeky style, and it will go quickly.
2 stars

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi

Giuseppe e Gian Pietro Girardi Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with bright ruby reflections. The bouquet is pungent, with some wet stable straw mingled with pungent spice and graphite shavings with underlying alcohol; there's not as much fruit as in some. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with brighter than expected sour cherry fruit supported primarily by berry fruit acidity, thought here are some greenish tannins -- not too many -- and it flows into a warm greenish tannic finish. It's a bit wild, and the Italian word that comes to mind is acerbo, which means sour, and also underdeveloped (the word is often applied to girls who will be beautiful women in a few years). Because of its aggressive acidity it will work well with fattier foods, but it's a wine you should only choose if you like this character.
1 star

Girasole

Girasole Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly green -- not quite artichoke petals, but in that direction -- with brambles and some minerality and peppery spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by minerality and slight hints of sweetness more than acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and have a greenish cast, though not much of a burr. It's more settled than I might have liked, and relatively soft, with a lack of acidity.
1 star

Gruppo Italiano Vini

Santi Cà Bordenis Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is bright and rather green, with lively sour cherry acidity and squash rind mingled with slightly peppery spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively minerality more than fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a warm peppery tannic finish. It's not quite as fruity as some, but does have pleasing minerality and if you like this in a wine it will work well with grilled meats and stews, and also do a nice job at a cookout. It's more particular than some and you have to like the style.
1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico Tacchetto 2010
Lively slightly orange cherry ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up vegetal accents and some spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with considerable minerality and some peppery spice supporting moderate cherry plum fruit that gians roundness from very slight sweetness, and tannins that are brambly and lay a peppery burr over the tongue, flowing into a fairly long peppery finish. It's an angry young man, but promises nicely in a rather light skittish key, and will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews. I would expect it to begin to come into its own in fall 2011.
2 stars

Guerrieri Rizzardi Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a tad rustic, with greenish balsamic accents and warmth mingled with some spice and peppery notes, but not much fruit. It comes across as feisty. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by balsamic warmth and tannins that have warm greenish accents, and flow into a rather sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It's pleasant in a fairly aggressive traditional key and will drink well with grilled or fried meats. You have to like the style to enjoy it; if you like wines with richer fruit it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Il Pignetto

Il Pignetto Bardolino 2010
Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy greenish cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and some vegetal accents, also slight bramble and peppery spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by moderate bitterness and peppery spice, and moderate acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth, and flow into a peppery finish. It's a bit lax, but this can happen in a barrel sample, and it may clean up nicely.

La Cà

La Cà Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy rather vegetal berry fruit supported by some tobacco and underbrush, while there are also metallic accents, in the direction of hot iron. On the palate it's fairly bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are soft and smooth, and have slight leathery accents, and flow into a fairly long warm berry fruit finish with lasting sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and, as the acidity fades, dry tannins. It's a trifle lax, but pleasant enough, and will drink well with grilled or fired meats
1 star

La Rocca

La Rocca Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by some wet stable straw, and also by some sea salt. On the palate it's brighter than I had expected, with lively lour cherry fruit supported by cherry and red cranberry acidity, while the tannins are light and fairly smooth, flowing into a clean sour cherry finish with lasting warmth and dusky underlying bitterness. It's fairly aggressive, in a greenish key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, especially fattier cuts, or fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Le Fraghe

Le Fraghe Bardolino Le Fraghe 2010
Fairly deep cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is moderately rich, with scalded milk mingling with berry fruit and peppery spice, and some greenish licorice root as well. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by bitterness and graphite shavings more than acidity, and by rather blocky tannins that flow into a tongue curling dry tannic finish. Too much tannin, for me, and not enough brightness, nor fruit.
1 star

Le Ginestre

Le Ginestre Bardolino Classico Mondragon 2010
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with orange accents and brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and slightly unusual, with rich berry fruit and sandalwood spice laced with sweetness that brings to mind a Moscato di Scanzo; and with more swishing some peppery spice as well. On the palate it's full and smooth, with fairly rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. It's atypical, with a degree of roundness that the others lack and sandalwood notes that I associate more with Valpolicella than Bardolino, while there is also a slight degree of sweetness, just enough to confer additional roundness. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's a bit particular in terms of Bardolino.


Le Muraglie

Le Muraglie Bardolino Vicentini 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and violets mingling with some greenish spice and jammy berry fruit, with hints of licorice root as well. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with soft plum cherry fruit that gains richness from some sandalwood, and is supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish with sweet notes that have hints of candied orange peel to them, while the finish, before the fruit fades, brings to mind bubble gum in its sweetness. It's particular, and considerably less aggressive than the majority of the wines presented. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style. It is not what I would consider to be a classic Bardolino.
1 star

Le Tende

Le Tende Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some wet leaves and spice with slight animal tang -- it needs a few more months to come together. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm red currant acidity that isn't particularly biting, and by smooth slightly greenish tannins that flow into a warm rather green finish. It's have liked a little more verve to it, because it comes across as rather settled, and lacking in brightness.
1 star

Le Vigne di San Pietro

Le Vigne di San Pietro Bardolino 2010
Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with slight ruby reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some wet pepper -- an effect of recent bottling -- and slight scalded milk. It's still out of sorts. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderate berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness more than acidity, and by tannins that are quite blocky and flow into a decidedly bitter tannic finish. It's lacking in life and verve, and wants acidity too.


Lenotti

Lenotti Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Barrel sample
Pale orange ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is muted, with some peppery spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do reveal a splintery burr in the finish. Promising, and will drink nicely with grilled meats, light stews, and also pasta dishes and risotti, while it has sufficient acidity to work well with fried foods too.

Marcello Marchesini

Marcello Marchesini Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with berry fruit supported by some licorice root and hints of sweetness, while there are also some jammy accents and the heather from a cut field. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a rather quick greenish tannic finish. It's still coming together on the palate too, and will pe rather delicate in a sour fruit key in a few months' time, though we're not there yet. Something to think about if you like tart fruit but don't want a really aggressive wine, and it will drink well with simple pasta dishes or light stews.
1 star

Meneghello

Meneghello Bardolino Chiaretto Classico 2010
Pale ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by squash rind greenness, and by some spice, while there are also some mentholated accents and hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by slight mineral acidity and by moderately intense tannins that flow into a rather sweet moderately tart cherry finish with candied cherry overtones and some bitterness. It's still coming together, and will be riper and rounder than some; if you like the style, which is soft and fairly ripe, it will work well with red meats, but if you prefer zestier wines with more verve you will find it lacking.
1 star

Monte dei Roari

Bardolino Monte dei Roari 2010
Barrel sample
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with forest berry fruit supported by brambly berry fruit acidity and by some greenish slightly mentholated accents, and slight wood smoke too. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by delicate sour berry fruit acidity and by a certain minerality, while the tannins are moderately intense, and have a fairly splintery burr, glowing into a bright finish. It's fairly delicate, and the fruit is pleasant, so I would have hopes for it, though it does need some time.

Monte del Frà

Monte del Frà Bardolino 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents, while there are also hints of sweetness and some sandalwood. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit that starts out sweet, and is then joined by lively sour cherry raspberry acidity that carries into a fairly ling bright finish, while the tannins are smooth and fairly soft. It's pleasant, in a smooth cheeky way that brings a teen to mind, and will drink well with hearty pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews. Chicken pot pie comes to mind for some reason.
2 stars

Monte Oliveto

Monte Oliveto Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively greenish cherry fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and sea salt, with a fair amount of warmth as well. It seems peppy. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by deft light tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish. It's lively, with nice verve, but not tremendously aggressive, and as it ages over the next few months it will also, I think, become rather graceful in a light bright key. It will be quite nice with meaty risotti, hearty pasta dishes, legumes, and light stews or grilled meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Monte Zovo

Monte Zovo Bardolino 2010
Pale ruby with brilliant reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather green, with cherry fruit supported by jammy sweetness and some sandalwood, and also by pleasing spice. On the palate it's deft, with pleasant fairly rich cherry and strawberry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity and some sea salt, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with lasting cherry strawberry acidity supported by some vegetal accents. It's rather graceful in a middle of the road key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Lorenzo Morando

Lorenzo Morando Bardolino 2010
Lively orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is bright, with sandalwood laced sour cherry fruit supported by spice and some alcohol, and by sea salt as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight greenish burr, and by moderately intense acidity that flows into a warm sour cherry finish. Quick to write, but pleasant in a rather graceful middle of the road key, and will drink nicely with first course dishes or meats and vegetables, and be quite versatile. A second bottle will likely come in handy.
2 stars

Albino Piona

Albino Piona Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Lively pale orange ruby with bright ruby reflections. The bouquet is intense, and a bit wilder than many, with berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and some stable straw, while there are also sea salt and some pungent undertones, and as it opens, scalded milk. On the palate it's sweeter and smoother than I expected, with fairly rich, fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by warm savory balsamic acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and flow into a spicy greenish finish with underlying fruit; there is moderate acidity, which carries through and becomes more apparent in the finish, but I found it a little lax. If you like smoother softer wines that are ripe but not overripe, and do have some acidity you will like it, but if you prefer the more old-style, more aggressive Bardolino it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Giorgio Poggi

Giorgio Poggi Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale slightly orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with some shellac and sandalwood with peppery spice and moderately intense our berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by some mineral acidity and some sea salt, and by tannins that are still rather blocky, flowing into a blocky tannic finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, and will be pleasantly versatile, working well with fist course dishes form legume based soups, pasta, and risotto though simple grilled meats and light stews, and also has (barely) enough acidity to work with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Raval

Raval Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with lively sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some greenish vegetal accents with slight sandalwood as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by slight peppery spice, fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that flow into a clean fresh greenish cherry finish with some underlying sandalwood spice. Nice balance and pleasant in a rather zesty key, and will drink nicely with hearty first course soups, pasta dishes and risotti, and will also work well with simple grilled meats or fried meats, and with fairly rich stews. In short, versatile, and you will likely want a second bottle.
2 stars

Dante Righetti

Dante Righetti Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by some sandalwood and warm peppery spice with slight greenish accents as well, and some sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately rich decidedly greenish cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and some sea salt, and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a warm rather green finish with tannic underpinning. I'd have liked a little more verve and life to the fruit, which isn't settled but doesn't display tremendous drive either.
1 star

Enzo Righetti

Enzo Righetti Bardolino Classico 2010
Deep cherry ruby with muted ruby reflections (was it filtered?) and pink rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, and decidedly jammy, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by fairly intense sweetness and some greenish vegetal and sandalwood accents, and slight chalk as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively ripe cherry fruit supported by a degree of sweetness and fairly intense peppery spice, while there is also moderately intense sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that are smooth and fairly bitter, and lead into a fairly bright berry fruit finish with some berry fruit acidity to provide direction. It's pleasant in a zesty, riper key than many, with bright fruit and bright acidity that stand up to the slight sweetness that comes with ripeness, and if you like the style, which is rather luscious, it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary for fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Ronca

Ronca Bardolino Erre 2010
Pale orange ruby with bright cherry ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and hints of petroleum that are rather unusual, and by some dusky greenish spice with hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported more by bitterness than by berry fruit acidity, though there is some of that too, and it flows into a rather bitter finish with moderately intense berry fruit acidity and a brambly tannic burr. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, with nicely balanced acidity that is present but not really aggressive, and will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

San Zeno

San Zeno Bardolino Classico 2010
Lively orange ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents mingled with some pungent notes and moderately intense, fairly ripe berry fruit; there are also slight sandalwood accents and it's clearly still quite young. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe though not overripe, with moderately intense cherry forest berry fruit that starts out smooth and fairly sweet, and gradually displays warm berry fruit acidity with considerable sea salt that supports with the assistance of smooth tannins, and flows into a fairly long tart berry fruit finish. It's rather graceful in a ripe fruit driven key, and will work well with simple grilled meats (and the other fixings of a cookout), light stews, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Sartori

Sartori Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and pink rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some fresh cherry fruit mingled with wild strawberries and some greenish sandalwood accents with pleasant spice as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with scrappier than expected berry fruit supported by greenish berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a sandalwood green burr and flow into a rather warm dry tannic finish with some bitter accents too. It's more aggressive than I had expected, and also drier on the palate; if you like the style, which is distinctly tannic, it will work well with grilled meats, light stews, and fried meats and vegetables. But you have to like the style.
1 star

Tamburino Sardo

Tamburino Sardo Bardolino Chiaretto 2010
Lively ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry fruit supported by moderately intense spice and some greenish vegetal accents, with some sweetish accents as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity and by tannins that are warm and fairly smooth, while there is also some sea salt that adds depth and brightness, while the finish is warm and fruit laced, with some tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a luscious fruit driven middle of the road key, and will be quite versatile; if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer tighter wines with a little more acidic drive, it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Giovanna Tantini

Giovanna Tantini Bardolino 2009
Almandine ruby with ruby reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, and rather exotic, with quinine and berry fruit that bring to mind a Barolo Chinato much more than a Bardolino; it's powerful and though there isn't the sweetness of the Barolo, there is the quinine. On the palate it's ample, with moderate sweetness and bitter quinine-laced berry fruit that is supported by slight berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly soft. It breaks with the field, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.
1 star

Tenuta La Presa

Tenuta La Presa Bardolino 2010
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry prune fruit supported by slight greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by some candied cherry sweetness, which carries on the one hand, conferring roundness, while on the other there is bright sour cherry acidity supported by tannins that have a brambly burr, and flow into a warm quite tart finish. It's fairly aggressive, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; in terms of accompaniments it will work well with grilled meats, including lamb chops or very rich burgers, and also with fried meats and vegetables. If you prefer smoother more polished wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Tenuta San Leone

Tenuta San Leone Bardolino Colle Morar 2010
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby -- one of the darkest -- with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fresh and floral with some chalky accents and a rush of ripe berries. Disjointed but promising in a ripe key. On the palate it's quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by sweet tannins that have a slight brambly burr, while there are also candied cherry accents that carry though from start into the finish. I'm not sure how they managed to get this much ripeness out of the cool, rainy 2010 summer but they did, and if you like this rich, ripe, fruit driven style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which was, for me, too ripe and too sweet.

Tinazzi

Tinazzi Bardolino Classico Cà dei Rocchi Pieve San Vito 2010
Deep almandine cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim - it looks older than the others. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sandalwood and pleasant spice. On the palate it's ample and rich, with jammy slightly balsamic berry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice that flow into a clean spicy finish. It feels bigger than a Bardolino, not quite as far as a Valpolicella, but somewhere in between, and also has balsamic notes and warmth that make it stand out. In terms of accompaniments it will work well with roasts or stews, but you have to be expecting something bigger than your average Bardolino.
2 stars

Tre Colline

Tre Colline Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is rather mineral, with dusky graphite shavings mingled with some berry fruit and sea salt. It's still coming together, but promises well. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour cherry and red currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a deft berry fruit finish with slightly greenish sour cherry acidity underpinning. Graceful, and will drink quite nicely with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style, which is bright but not brash, it's worth seeking out.
2 stars

Valletti

Valletti Bardolino Classico 2010
Pale cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, in a brambly key with lively sour cherry acidity mingled with some greenish sandalwood vegetal accents and some peppery spice. On the palate it's bright, with fresh rather lively cherry and forest berry fruit supported by lively rather savory berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are warm and peppery and flow into a clean spicy finish. Pleasant in a fairly direct, lively key, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Vigneti Villabella

Vigneti Villabella Bardolino Classico Vigna Morlongo 2010
Lively orange ruby with brilliant ruby reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich cherry fruit supported by some sandalwood accents and slight jammy sweetness, while there is also some heather from a cut field. Nice depth and balance. On the palate it's rich, with bright fruit that's riper and sweeter than I expected, though still very much cherry, and supported by bright berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long fairly tart finish with some peppery accents. Pleasant, and will work very well with foods, ranging from hearty first course pasta dishes and risotti though simple grilled meats and light stews. Enjoyable, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

Zenato

Zenato Bardolino 2010
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant cherry reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some fairly sweet cherry fruit supported by jammy notes and some sandalwood. On the palate it's fairly rich,a nd fairly sweet, though not overripe, with rich cherry fruit supported by some jammy sweetness and by tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness tot hem, while the acidity is more mineral than fruit driven, and there is some sea salt that provides depth, while the fish is bright and cherry laced. It's quite approachable, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will work well with hearty pasta dishes. A solid wine, and you can expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Ortrugo: An Exciting Discovery

One learns interesting things at Vinitaly.

One evening this April I was tasting Ortrugo in the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna's stand, when Marco Lusignani began to present his wines. He happens to be in the Colli Piacentini, and the first wine he poured was an Ortrugo. He said the varietal was introduced to the Colli Piacentini by a barbarian who had cuttings in his saddle bag: The man liked the countryside enough to stop and plant his cuttings, which the locals referred to with a dialect word that sounds like "Ortrugo," and means "The other grapes."

Twenty years ago, continued Marco, the grape was still referred to simply as "the other grape." And it might have vanished from the pale, had a winemaker who was planning to replant his vineyards not decided to first try vinifying it in purezza, or by itself, as they used to. He liked the resulting wine, replanted with the varietal, and was quickly followed by others.

Ortrugo is produced in westernmost extension of Emilia Romagna, the Colli Piacentini, and as such does not enjoy the status of being a distinct appellation. Rather, it is bottled as Ortrugo Colli Piacentini, and can be either Fermo (still), Frizzante (with a light sparkle), or Spumante (fully sparkling). It can also be either Secco, dry, or Abboccato, sweet. In terms of composition, Ortrugo must be at least 90% Ortrugo, with the remaining 10% non-aromatic white varietals. In terms of yields, the vineyards can be farmed to a maximum yield of 120 quintals of grapes per hectare, which translates into a maximum yield of about 84 hectoliters of wine. Alcohol levels are about 11%, which makes for wines that are light and easy to drink.

Freshly bottled Ortrugo is quite mineral, easy to drink, and quite enjoyable; though it can be good in he still versions, I found myself preferring the sparkling versions. With a few months of bottle age, Ortrugo gains intriguing dried apple accents that are quite different from the green apple one encounters in Prosecco, but no less interesting.

The Ortrugo tasted at Vinitaly:

Cantine Mainetti
Cantine Mainetti Il Cavallo Ortrugo Frizzante Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and fine perlage. Bright savory nose with greenish accents and spice, and underlying bitterness. On the palate it's it's light and bright, with fairly rich savory minerality that gains creamisness from the sparkle, and flows into a clean fresh finish with savory slightly greenish accents. It will drink quite well.
2 stars

Ferrari e Perini
Ferrari e Perini Ortugo Frizzante Selezione Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Pale greenish brassy white with green reflections and fine perlage that settles. The bouquet is bright, with clean fresh vegetal accents and some floral overtones, also some hints of petroleum and underlying bitterness. Nice balance. On the palate it's it's fresh and bright, with lively minerality and fair warmth that flow into a clean fresh savory finish with sparkle again conferring creaminess. Pleasant, and will work nicely as an aperitif or A Tutto Pasto
2 stars

Villa Rosa
Villa Rosa Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Secco Frizzante 2008
Pale greenish brassy gold with bright highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, and vegetal, with bitter cut flowers and savory accents; the impression is deft. On the palate it's full, with a creamy feel coming from the sparkle, which flows into a clean fresh savory finish with some greenish notes. It will be a nice aperitif, and will also work well with egg or cheese based dishes.
2 stars

Loschi Costa Muta
Loschi Costa Muta Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante 2008
Fairly rich brassy gold with golden reflections and fine perlage that settles. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean heather and spice mingled with greenish accents and hints of honeydew melon. On the palate it's rich, and fairly full, with clean deft minerality supported by some sweetness and sparkle, which confers creaminess, and flows into a clean bright mineral finish with peppery notes from the sparkle. Pleasant, and will be nice as an aperitif or with foods. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Torretta
Torretta Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Secco Frizzante 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and clean, with bright honeydew melon and sweetnessmingled with some minerality and delicate greenish accents. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, with a fresh creamy mouthfeel from sparkle and floral honeysuckle and honeydew melon laced fruit that flows into a clean fresh rather savory finish. Pleasant, and has quite a bit to say.
2 stars

Azienda Vitivinicola Lusignani
Lusignani Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante 2008
Pale brassy gold with greenish reflections, brassy highlights, andfine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, and fairly pungent, with greenish accents and some spice mingled with sea salt. On the palate it's full with fairly bitter dried apple and sea salt, while the sparkle adds a degree of creaminess, and it flows into a clean savory finish. It's a bit more mature than some (considering it was freshly bottled), with more apple and less minerality, and will drink well with foods.
2 stars

Viticoltori Arovatesi Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante Secco 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant floral accents mingled with honeysuckle and some minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with green apple fruit supported by deft minerality and creaminess from the sparkle, which flows into a clean fresh mineral finish. Fairly direct, and will drink quickly; you may want a second bottle.
1 star

Podere Casale
Podere Casale Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Fermo 2006
Lively brassy gold with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents shot through by warmth and cedar, and also bitterness and wet leaves, the latter being unusual in a white wine, but working well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with dusky minerality supported by moderate citric acidity that flows into a fairly bitter mineral finish. Pleasant, and though I as a rule prefer the more sparkling interpretations of Ortrugo, it does provide a nice change of pace with respect to the "usual" white varietals. It will drink well with creamy dishes, for example vegetable or fish based risotto, and is a nice discovery.
2 stars

Castelli del Duca
Castelli del Duca Ortrugo Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with rich minerality laced with citric fruit and heather and sea salt. On the palate it's full, with deft slightly greenish minerality supported by moderate acidity and slight greenish tannic notes that flow into a clean mineral finish. It's pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif, or with foods. I'd have liked a little more tightness to it, but it is quite versatile, with considerable character, opening nicely on the nose to reveal some honeydew melon too.
2 stars

I liked the Ortrugo I tasted at Vinitaly enough to ask the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna to organize an Ortrugo tasting, which took place in June 2009. I tasted an additional 16 wines, 11 of which were Frizzanti and another 3 Spumanti. I tasted them by degree of sparkle, but for clarity's sake have grouped them by winery.

As a general impression, I think a little sparkle contributes to Ortrugo. The still wines ten to be somewhat more direct and less agile, and therefore less interesting. This said, the remaining wines:

Cantina Valtidone
Valtidone Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Brut 2008
Lot 08 338
Pale brassy gold with some delicate greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with fairly rich pressed apples -- not green so much as almost cidery, and also some bitter almond and a degree of pleasant airiness. Inviting. On the palate it's deft, with lively tart apple fruit supported by clean bright acidity and sparkle; it's quite welcoming in a direct up front sort of way, and will work quite well as an aperitif or with foods, ranging from egg based dishes (a frittata for example) though vegetable soups and risotti, and on to creamy white meats, be they fish or fowl. In short, versatile, and the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars

Valtidone Luceo Ortrugo Vivace Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot 09111
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some floral accents -- heather -- supported by creamy dried apple; it brings to mind the dried apples prepared by the Pennsylvania Dutch. Pleasant, and with further sniffing some savory notes emerge that provide definition. On the palate it's fairly light, with clean dried apple fruit supported by mineral acidity and some spice, and flows into a crisp mineral finish with dried apple underpinning. It revolves around savory freshness, and will be pleasant as an aperitif, or lightly chilled with friends far from the table. At table, it will work well with lighter entrees. Pleasant, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Valtidone Armonia Ortrugo Frizzante Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot 09029
Brassy slightly greenish gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage that bubbles up and fades. The bouquet is fresh, with savory sliced, partially dried apple supported by sea salt and bitterness, and some heather, as well as minerality. Pleasant, and quite welcoming, in a rather graceful key. On the palate it's deft, with a rush of minerality supported by mineral acidity and some, but not much dried apple, while a degree of creaminess comes from the sparkle, and it flows into a clean savory mineral finish. Refreshing, and though rather direct, will work quite well as an aperitif or with simple foods. It's one of those wines people -- especially wine snobs -- will raise an eyebrow at as they swish it in their glass, but will then drink quickly once they've tasted it. The Italian that comes to mind is an acqua cheta, a descriptor generally applies to young ladies who don't attract obvious attention, but around whom everything turns.
88

Valtidone Zefiro Ortrugo Fermo Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot 09125
Brassy yellow with greenish reflections and brassy highlights. The bouquet is intense, with lemony citrus fruit supported by dried apple and some heather, with an intriguing greenish overly, and by sea salt as well and some minerality. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's bright, with rich apple fruit supported by savory tartness and some minerality, which flow into a clean slightly balsam-laced savory finish. Pleasant, and will drink well with white meats or fish, and also work well with fried meats and vegetables. By comparison with the winery's sparkling wines it comes across as slightly awkward; the sparkle confers a grace that is wanting here.
1 star

Cantina di Vicobarone
Cantina di Vicobarone Sheratan Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Brut Spumante 2008
Lot 9054
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with deft floral accents and some spice; it's quite elegant in a fresh and youthful key. On the palate it's fairly rich, with floral accents supported by bitter minerality and some acidity, as well as sparkle, which flow into a clean bitter mineral finish. Quite nice, a very fresh wine that revolves around floral notes and minerality, and will be quite pleasant as an aperitif, or with cheese or egg based antipasti. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and for people to ask you what it is and where to find it.
2 stars

Cantina di Vicobarone Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante 2008
Lot 9134
Greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections with fine perlage that bubbles up and fades. The bouquet is fresh, and fairly rich, with an initial rush of eucalyptus and mint that gives way to fresh light floral accents and some savory spice, also some underlying Delicious apple. Nice balance and inviting, it comes across as lithe. On the palate it's bright, with clean savory apple fruit supported by apple acidity and white pepper from the sparkle, which also contributes to the savoriness of the wine. Refreshing, and is one of those wines one could very easily quaff and demand more of; it will work well with vegetable or fish absed pasta dishes and risotti, and also with white meats, and I could see it doing well at a cookout too. It's far removed from Chardonnay or Sauvignon, but this is not a defect. Simply a difference.
2 stars

Ronchi Pierina
Monteissa Ortrugo Brut Metodo Tradizionale
Non-vintage; lot 07/19
Though it doesn't say, I would expect it to be a bit older since the sparkle comes from bottle refermentation. It's lively brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with toasted bread crumbs and tart lemony acidity mingled with ripe, though not green apple -- it's not as cidery as some but has that slightly oxidized apple feel (which I enjoy) to it. Pleasant. On the palate it's pleasingly full, with fairly rich savory apple fruit supported by mineral bitterness and a creamy texture from the sparkle, which derives from bottle fermentation, ad do some of the savory accents. Pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with egg based dishes -- an onion frittata for example -- and slow with creamy dishes, ranging from risotti through meats or even fish, and it also has the wherewithal to work well with fried white meats and vegetables. Versatile, and a pleasant discovery.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Mossi
Tenuta Cà del Morino Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante 2008
Lot 9008
Charged greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage that bubbles up and fades back down. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory crushed apples and some minerality, with underlying floral accents as well. It's more charged than some, both in terms of color and perfumes, and comes across as overbuilt, and lumbering. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich mineral laced apple fruit with some floral accents supported by bitter minerality and some acidity, which flow into a fairly long finish in which floral accents gradually emerge. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose though it comes across as trying a little too hard; there's not as much crispness nor definition as I'd might have liked. This said, it will work well with creamy risotti, light stews, and also with fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Manara
Manara Ortrugo Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot 80 03
Pale brassy yellow with slightly greenish brassy reflections and fine perlage that bubbles up and settles. Paler than some. The bouquet is fresh, with an intriguing mixture of floral accents -- the heather of a summer field -- and savory notes mingled with hints of ash and some bitterness. Quite fresh, and inviting too. On the palate it's light, and again quite fresh, with brisk minerality supported by sparkle and mineral acidity that gradually gives way to savory crushed apples in the finish, and lasting warmth. Quite nice, and will work very well as an aperitif, or with foods, ranging from risotti though frittata, and also summer white meats or fish, be they creamy or fried, and I could also see it working very well at a cookout. Deft; it's worth seeking out, and it will go quickly.
88-90

Cantine Bonelli
Cantine Bonelli Ortrugo Frizzante Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot Bl915/1
Bale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage that bubbles up and then fades. The bouquet is a bit more charged than some, with savory crushed apples supported by some eucalyptus; it's rich but not as fresh as some, and gives the impression of wanting to be a bit bigger than it perhaps should be. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich apple fruit supported by some sweetness, and also by savory notes and acidity that flow into a warm savory crushed apple finish. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose, though the impression of its trying too hard remains; it's fairly direct, and will work well with foods, but not as fresh as it might be. Rework. Not as agile
1 star

Torre Fornello
Torre Fornello Ortrugo Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot 98
A more charged brassy gold than some, with fine perlage that bubbles up and then fades. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather mingled with savory minerality, and some, but not too much dried apple; it's more mineral than most. On the palate it's ample, and again fairly minseral, with avory minerality mingled with some tart cidery apple that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's fairly direct, and a bit more settled than some of the others; it comes across as tired.
1 star

Maria Poggi Azzali
Maria Poggi Azzali Tenuta Pernice Ortrugo Frizzante Colli Piacentini 2008
Lot 09/089
Pale brassy gold with peppery brassy reflections and some slightly greenish highlights and fine perlage that bubbles up and settles. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cidery crushed apples supported by savory notes and some minerality, and, upon second sniff, by dried apples as well, and some underlying a slightly ashy bitterness. Scrappy. On the palate it's quite mineral, with considerable bitterness supported by savor and sparkle, and, as the bitterness works into the finish, warm slightly dried apple acidity that joins with minerality and warmth. It's very much a food wine, and will work well with creamy first course dishes, though I think it will also be quite good with fried meats or fish, and vegetables. Palate cleansing, an I think it will also be a good bet if you're planning a cookout and want a sparkling white.
2 stars

Lusenti
Lusenti Colli Piacentini Ortrugo Frizzante 2008
Lot 5709
Pale brassy green with brassy reflections and fine perlage that bubbles up and settles. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory slightly dried apple mingled with some greenish notes and pungency; it's more charged than some, and also more pungent, with minerality present but less evident -- it's more towards ash and bitterness. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich savory minerality supported by sparkle, and by slight slightly dried apple that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Direct, and will drink well with simple first course dishes, or creamy fish or meats.
1 star

Conti Barattieri
Barattieri Ortrugo Frizzante Colli Piacentini 2008
Lot 01E09
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections; the perlage foams up and then settles. The bouquet is quite fresh, a slightly savory explosion in a flower shop with some underlying minerality. Pleasant, and it brings to mind sun-drenched rolling fielded hills. On the palate it's bright, with savory minerality supported by sparkle and by some clean fresh bitterness, also floral accents more than. A fair amount going on in a lively, cheeky floral key, and it will be nice as an aperitif or with creamy dishes, ranging from risotto through fish or white meat, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. It is more floral than most, and I had the impression that it may have a little bit of Malvasia in it -- up to 10% other whites are allowed by the DOC -- and the floral accents are reminiscent of Malvasia. In any case, it is pleasant, and if you like this rich floral style it will go quickly.
2 stars

Santa Giustina
Santa Giustina Ortrugo Vivace Colli Piacentini DOC 2008
Lot 270209
Fairly charged greenish brassy yellow with greenish reflections and brassy highlights and fine perlage that settles. The bouquet is quite savory, with something from the yeasts that brings to mind the white of a banana peel, and tart minerality; it represents an extreme in terms of its savoriness. On the palate it's bright, full, and bitter, with quite a bit of sea salt that is supported by a creaminess that is again from the yeasts and brings to mind a grain of Parmigiano that has melted on the tongue. Grasping at straws, but this is what I come to. It's particular, and one of those wines you will either like or not at all. If you do, it will work well with creamy first course dishes, and also with white meats or fish. But you have to like the style.
1 star

AZ. AGR. MARCHESE MALASPINA
CONTRADA BORGORATTO, 26
29022 BOBBIO (PC)
Tel: 0523 936048

Marchese Malaspina Colli Piacentini Ortrugo
Lot 0979
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish cut apple mingled with some vegetal greenness and some underlying savory sea salt; as it opens heather also emerges, with hints of ash. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich savory minerality supported by hints of apple and some underlying bitterness, which flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's not quite as fresh as some of the others, and though it is not settled I found myself wishing there were more brightness to it -- it's brooding. This said, it will drink well with rich foods that beg savory minerality to clear the palate.
1 star

Last Thing: I am greatly endebted to both Ursula Thurner for introducing me to Ortrugo, and to the folks at the Enoteca Regionale Emilia Romagna, in particular Gian Alfonso Roda for inviting me to taste the wines, Maurizio for pouring them, and Marta Geri, for putting together the press kit and supplying the two photographs I used to illustrate the article.