Showing posts with label 2006 vintage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2006 vintage. Show all posts

Friday, May 20, 2011

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino: Impressions & More


This year, the winemakers of Montalcino presented the 2006 vintage, and while it was a distinct step up from the 2005, it was by no means easy -- as is the case in other parts of Italy, the 2006 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino turns out to be not particularly user friendly, coming across as rather angry, closed on the bouquet and with tannins that have a hardness to them that promises well for the future but make the wines less ready now than those of a more welcoming vintage would be.

Taken as a group I found the wines to be unready, but in many cases showing considerable potential for the future. In other words, they're wines to buy now and set aside for 5-10 (or more) years, and then open at a happy occasion.

I must also say that my evaluation of the vintage is not universal: A fellow taster I talked with gave it three out of five, because of high alcohol in many of the wines, and many wines with dry tannic finishes. She also sees less aging potential than I do.

Having said this, I began started by tasting through the vineyard selections, finding many things worth thinking about and then worked through the Brunello Base from the same estates, and finished by picking wines almost at random -- more than 140 wineries were presenting their Brunello, and the time allotted, two days, made it impossible to taste them all.

Before we get to the wines, a word about the venue: In the past Benveuto Brunello took place in a tent in the Fortezza, which made things difficult if it was either cold or windy, both frequent occurrences in February. This year the Consorzio moved the tasting to a courtyard that was much better lit, and also more comfortable. The only drawback is that it was too small to also host winemaker's stands, which were therefore in another building, making it much more difficult to gofrom winemaker to tasting table and back. I confess I simply The tasted.

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino presented February 18 and 19 2011

As I said, I began with Selezioni and then worked through the Brunello base from the same wineries, and then tasted at random. The wineries presenting Selezioni are in the order they were listed on the tasting sheet prepared by the Consorzio.



San Filippo
San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some mentholated accents. Quite young, and keeps its distance, but promises nicely. On the palate it's quite pleasant in a traditional key, with warm bright sour cherry fruit supported by acidity that has some vegetal accents, and by tannins that have a warm slightly cedar-laced greenish burr and flow into a long warm peppery finish with some fruit underpinning and sour berry fruit acidity that carries at length. It's very young, and to be frank not really ready to drink yet, though it will be very nice in 3-5 years, and age well for 10-15 years thereafter. If you enjoy the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

San Filippo Le Lucere Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a rather austere key, with brambly sour red berry and cherry fruit supported spice, greenish acidity, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and warm, with fairly drawn out sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly smooth, and flow into a long tannic finish. It's an austere wine, in a traditional key, and very young; one could drink it with a steak now, but it will begin to give its best in 8-10 years.
2 stars

San Polino
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with back reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated berry fruit supported by greenish spice and a fair amount of warmth, with some brambly wet tree bark as well. On the palate it's bright, in a middle of the road key, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with slight bitter accents, and flow into a fairly long bitter cherry finish with some tart underlying acidity and a bitter tannic underpinning. It's pleasant, in a middle of the road key, but needs another couple of years to come together and begin to absorb the oak; it will be worth the wait and if you like this style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

San Polino Helichrysum Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some acidity; as it opens the fruit increases some and some spicy accents also emerge. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, though quite young, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish. It's graceful, in a powerful middle of the road key, and also quite approachable; one could drink it now but it will reward those with the patience to give it 3-5 years, and age well for 12 or more.
2 stars

Tassi
Tassi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Almandine with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with powerful balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and by slight jammy sweet notes that are also alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry plum fruit -- it's a little riper than I expected but displays verve -- supported by bright plum berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather green and flow into a greenish tannic finish. It's standoffish, though there is good potential; it needs a year or perhaps two for the tannins to begin to smooth, and it will age well for 10-15 years.
2 stars

Tassi Franci Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe cherry fruit supported by some leather and nutmeg spice with underlying alcohol. It's a bit more modern in key. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a cedar-laced burr, and by moderately bright cherry-mineral acidity that does surrender to bitterness in the finish. It's ample, and will drink well with roasts or stews; by comparison with some it's less aggressive, though there is good fruit, and if you prefer a less aggressive style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi
Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated alcohol supported by balsam-laced red berry fruit and some Moroccan leather with some spice as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and glancing, and flow into a clean slightly riper cherry plum finish with mineral tannic underpinning. Graceful though it needs time, a couple of years to begin with, and if you have more patience it will wait as long as you are willing to.
2 stars

Tenute Silvio Nardi Vigna Manachiara Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with berry fruit supported by bitter cedar and some graphite shavings; there isn't much acidity to it, and it gives an impression of roundness. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit that's sourer than I expected, supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and fairly rich, with a slight peppery burr that flows into a fairly long sour finish with lasting bitterness. It's elegant, in a rather brooding key, and at the start of a long climb; it will age well for many years, and will be worth giving time to.. It grew on me.
2 stars

Tiezzi
Tiezzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly jammy berry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol, slight cedar, and some greenish accents with u dried orange peel. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are warm and somewhat splintery, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish with fairly bright tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, but it needs time, and will begin to give its best in 3-5 years, and will age for a decade beyond then.
2 stars

Tiezzi Vigna Soccorso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is more rustic than some, with balsamic notes and wet horse mingled with fairly sour acidity; it has an old-style feel to it. On the palate it's rich, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long sour cherry finish. Graceful in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will like it considerably. It will drink well now with a steak, but will richly reward those who have the patience to give it time, a decade or more.
88-90

Altesino
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is surprisingly young, with deft greenish vegetal accents mingled with red berry fruit, some candied -- almost brandied -- fruit, also warm sea salt and spice with slight balsamic accents. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by dusky bitter tomes and moderately intense acidity -- it's not as bright as I had expected -- and by rather languid prune sweetness that has slight graphite shaving undertones, while the tannins are smooth and rather dry. It's in mid stride, and needs at least a year to come together, at which point it will work well with roasts or stews. I found it middle of the road, but a little less bright than I might have liked.
1 star

Altesino Montorsoli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with almandine reflections and rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly old-style, with warm balsamic fruit supported by dried flowers and strawberry acidity, with underlying nutmeg spice and as it opens dried slightly musty orange peel. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, and quite round, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are very smooth, and flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's quite old style, and some of the aromas on the nose suggest that the wood is a little older than it should be, but it displays a certain grace, and if you like the style you will enjoy it considerably.
2 stars

Banfi
Banfi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich with brambly cherry fruit supported by hints of cedar and some leather. It's still coming together in an understated sort of way. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense slightly jammy berry fruit supported by delicate slightly mineral brambly acidity that fades into lasting warmth. It's a delicate wine, and somewhat in mid stride; the tannins don't display the aggressiveness that many 2006 wines do, while the wine does give an impression of being in mid stride on the palate too; it is drinkable but will age nicely becoming rather lacy and ethereal with time. It's a somewhat different interpretation of the vintage, and one that will in the long term pay well I think.
2 stars

Banfi Brunello di Montalcino Poggio alle Mura DOCG 2006
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is delicate, with moderate berry fruit supported by green leather and some spice with quite a bit of sea salt as well. It's a nice reflection of the vintage, which had a long cool spell in mid-summer that did have an effect on the overall ripening cast. On the palate it's delicate, with fairly full ripe cherry fruit supported by warm sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr in the finish, and have some cedar overtones that will fold in over the next few years. It's not an explosive wine, but does show pleasant grace and will age nicely, becoming delicately ethereal with time. I would give it 3-5 years to come into its own and expect it to age well for 10 years further at least.
2 stars

Barbi
Barbi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some musty dried orange peel mingled with some greenish accents; there's not much fruit though there is a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's moderately intense, with generic red berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are somewhat splintery, and flow into a fairly mineral finish with tannic underpinning. It's considerably understated with respect to the majority of the 2006 wines.
1 star

Barbi Vigna del Fiore Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and chalky berry fruit supported by some minerality and slight underlying spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by some mineral acidity and warmth, and by tannins that are rather blocky and flow into a rather blocky finish. It's a bit awkward, and the tannins are drier and angrier than I might have liked, and overshadow the fruit, which tried to escape but then settles back into the wine.
1 star

Caparzo
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading to white. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and spice with slight graphite shavings. But not much; the shutters are closed tight. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit that has some bitter overtones and is supported by sour cherry plum acidity with some mineral warmth, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly bitter, flowing into a clean bright slightly greenish tannic finish with a fair amount of berry fruit. It's graceful, or will be when it catches its footing, because at present it's in mid-stride and needs another couple of years at least to figure out what it wants to do when it grows up. Something to think about if you prefer the more traditional style, but give it time.
2 stars

Caparzo La Casa Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with dried orange peel and some spice, with deft underlying cedar and some graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a fresh sour cherry finish with lasting spicy warmth. Graceful, though at the outset of a long climb, and still a bit too young; if you had to drink it now rare roast beef or (medium) lamb would be obvious choices, though it will richly reward those with the patience to give it time. Expect it to age well for 10-15 years or more.
88-90

Castello Romitorio
Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and rather balsamic, with some musty dried orange peel and fairly bright spice supported by bitter accents and some green leather and leaf tobacco vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with leathery sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright mineral citric acidity, and by smooth tannins that have slight cedar-laced underpinning and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish with some mineral accents. The finish draws up a little bit shortly, and this is the youth of the tannins; it needs a year and perhaps two for them to begin to smooth and develop polish. This said, I'd have liked a little more acidity to keep it on its toes, because the work is carried out mostly by the tannins.
1 star

Castello Romitorio XXV Vendemmia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's darker than many. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry fruit supported by spicy cedar and some brambles, which are mingled with mentholated accents and hints of burlap and leaf tobacco. Quite a bit going on in a powerful key. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a dry cedar-laced burr, and flow into a fairly long dry tannic finish. It's quite rich, with fruit that's impressive, but has also absorbed considerable wood and is still working though it; by comparison with some of the others it's further behind and needs more time. I would expect it to begin to be drinkable in 2-3 years, and for it to age well for a 10-15. If you like the more modern style you will enjoy it, but do give it the time it needs.
2 stars

Castiglion del Bosco
Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a greenish vegetal key with sour cherry fruit mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young and needs another year at least to develop. On the palate it's full and rather soft, with bright slightly sour cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity, and by tannins that are very young and still a bit blocky, flowing into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with bitter tannic underpinning. It's woefully young and really not ready to drink; it needs another couple of years to learn how to stand and then will age well for at least a decade longer. In terms of style it's middle of the road, in a fairly ripe key.
2 stars

Castiglion del Bosco Campo del Drago Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is riper than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by spice and some nutmeg, and by some alcohol as well. Nice balance in a quite ripe softer key. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are ample and smooth, with some dusky spicy undertones that bring dried orange peel to mind, and flow into a fairly ripe plum laced finish. It's considerably riper and softer than the majority of the wines, but displays pleasing grace in this style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it; given its acidity it does have nice aging potential, though it won't be really long lived. I would drink it with slow cooked red meats, including spicier stews, or roasts that aren't too rare.
2 stars

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona
Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by bright slightly greenish alcohol and fairly intense bitterness with as it open greenish brambly accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry and plum fruit supported by fairly brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long clean fresh berry fruit finish with some plum accents, and a deft tannic underpinning. It's a little riper than some, and shows nice depth though it remains very young, and needs another couple of years to begin to show well; as it stands it's in swaddling clothes. Something to think about if you prefer a richer, riper style, though there's ample muscle behind the riper fruit and not a hint of flab.
2 stars

Ciacci Piccolomini D'Aragona Pianrosso Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sweetish almost jammy notes and some dried orange peel with slight musty accents; more swishing brings up slight cedar as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by considerable sea salt and tannins that have a warm soft burr, and flow into a clean slightly bitter sour cherry finish with lasting warmth. It's fairly graceful, in a traditional key, but also displays a certain laxity that is in part youth; the tannins are still a bit splintery, and need more time to smooth, though I think they will always have a dusky character. If you like the style you will like it; if instead you like wines with tighter tannic structures you will like it less.
2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some brambly greenish fruit; it's very young and clearly still developing. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by acidity that is warm and rather balsamic, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but do have a slight cedar-laced burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, though I would give it at least a year and better two to get its bearings about it; expect it to age well for 10-15 years.
2 stars

Donatella Cinelli Colombini Casata Prime Donne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. It's darker than many. The bouquet is intense, and quite modern, with languid ripe cherry plum fruit supported by fresh floral accents that are a little unusual in a Brunello, and by greenish spice as well; it gives an impression of a flapper reclining on an ottoman. On the palate it's quite ripe, with rich plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean plum laced finish with some sweetness to it, and also a dry tannic underpinning. It's a very ripe wine, and to enjoy it you have to enjoy a flavor cast shifted more towards plum/prune; if you like the style it will work well with rare to medium-roasted or grilled meats, and with flavorful stews, including spicier variations such as goulash. It's not what I look for in a Brunello, but is a nice interpretation in a ripe to overripe key.
2 stars

Il Marroneto
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit that gains depth from slight smoky accents and pleasing leaf tobacco and spice; it's still very young and has a ways to go yet. On the palate it's ample, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by fairly intense berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that have slight greenish accents and flow into a clean fairly rich sour cherry finish. Pleasant, though very young, and it needs time, at least a couple of years, to begin to figure out what it is, and will then age for at least 10 years and more likely 15. Considerable potential for the future.
2 stars

Il Marroneto Madonna delle Grazie Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice and alcohol with delicate underlying berry fruit and some leaf tobacco and graphite shavings with slight chalky spice. It's not really happy about being open. On the palate it's considerably brighter than one might have expected from the nose, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish veneer to them, and flow into a rather dry tannic finish. It's behind with respect to many, and needs another couple of years to be presentable; it will then age well for 10 - 15 years, becoming austere with time. If you like richer more fruit driven wines it will perhaps work less well for you.
2 stars

La Lecciaia
La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with slightly balsamic our cherry fruit supported by some peppery greenish accents and some spice, while there is also nose tingling acidity. On the palate it's full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish with a deft tannic underpinning. It's pleasant but very, very young, and needs at least another couple of years to get its bearings, and will age well for a decade thereafter. In terms of style, it's fairly traditional, revolving around sourness of fruit, and though it's too soon to say, I think it will display pleasant finesse too.
2 stars

La Lecciaia Vigna Manapetra Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic with balsamic warmth and sea salt supporting sour cherry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice depth and balance in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins are smooth and sweet, and flow into a long warm sour cherry finish that has a touch of sunny day to it. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; because of its acidity it will also be rather long-lived, and reward those with the patience to give it time.
2 stars

La Mannella
La Mannella Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of spice and some cedar but not much fruit On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with ripe plum fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh prune finish. It's ample, and pleasant in a rich quite ripe key, with ripe fruit that's supported by deft acidity, which keeps it from settling, and if you like the style, which is rather opulent, you will enjoy it, Give it a couple of year, however, because the nose is behind with respect to the palate and needs time to develop. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with drier meats, or also slowly cooked hearty stews or roasts.
2 stars

La Mannella I Poggiarelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, in a more rustic key, with balsamic accents and some leaf tobacco mingled with wet leather, and underlying dried orange peel and mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that has some dusky balsamic accents, and is supported by zesty sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth, and display a nice tannic bite that carries into a fairly long slightly brambly tannic finish with bright sour cherry acidity. Very pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
88-90

La Togata
La Togata Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some dusky graphite shavings and some wet leather, with slight mustiness as well, and greenish hints that bring squash rind to mind. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly fresh sour cherry finish with clean tannic underpinning. It's ample, and a bit riper than many, and also further behind than some on the nose. It needs a couple of years, and is a wine to consider if you prefer a slightly riper cast to the fruit, with some plum, though it's by no means overripe, and there's no flab to it. It just needs time.
1 star

La Togata
La Togata dei Togati Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe plum cherry fruit supported by some leathery accents and underlying bitterness and spice, and, as it opens, some slightly musty dried orange peel. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. It's a bit up in the air, and the nose is behind with respect to the palate, which is bright in a fairly traditional key, and I found pleasant. It needs another year at least for the nose to come together, and will age very well for a decade at least.
2 stars

Mastrojanni
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite ripe, with a fair amount of alcohol and some spice mingled with some vegetal notes and cherry prune fruit; it's still coming together but shows considerable promise. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by bitterness and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay and flow into a warm tannic finish with sour cherry underpinning. It's very young and rather disjointed, and needs another year at least to get its bearings, and more time to really begin to show well. In short, it's a wine to wait for, because it has considerable potential but is simply too young now. But if you like the fairly traditional style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Mastrojanni Vigna Schiena D'Asino Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Fairly dark almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with some leathery accents and some spice, but not much in the way of fruit. Rather, graphite shavings and hints of burlap. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported more by bitterness than by acidity, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a fairly long rather bitter finish with a dry slightly greenish tannic underpinning. It's more tired than many, and by comparison lacks verve.
1 star

Mocali
Mocali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable bitterness mingled with graphite shavings and some rather unusual chemical aromas; a fellow taster says mothballs, and he's right. On the palate it's better than I expected, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a clean warm tannic finish that is pleasant enough, but could be a little longer. It's very young, and clearly still coming together; I hope that the nose reflects the disjointedness of youth though that only time will tell.
1 star

Mocali Vigna delle Raunate Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine ruby; it's a little lighter than many. The bouquet is a bit more rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with fairly intense bramble and some alcohol mingled with what seemed almost cheesy at first swish, and then resolved into dusky bitterness. It's frankly dirty. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by dusky sour berry fruit acidity that has slightly off-putting leatheyr accents, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but have hazelnut shell notes. The palate reflects the nose, and it's not as clean as it might be.
1 star

La Rasina
La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar and some warmth, perked by spice as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with slightly riper than expected plum prune fruit that has a slight brandied cast to it, supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are decidedly greenish and lay a veneer over the tongue. The fruit is a little light for the structure, though this impression is also due to the aggressive youth of the tannins; it needs at least a couple of years to be remotely presentable, and will then age nicely for a decade or more in a slightly riper than middle of the road key.
2 stars

Talenti
Talenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with leathery cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents and a fair amount of warmth and alcohol. It's fairly austere. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry prune fruit supported by deft slightly mineral leathery acidity and by tannins that are warm and graceful, with slight leathery accents. It's in mid stride but promises to age quite nicely, becoming lacy with time. In terms of style it's more to the traditional end of the spectrum, and if you prefer richer fruit driven wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Gianni Brunelli le Chiuse di Sotto
Gianni Brunelli le Chiuse di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted -- it's still coming together -- with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some balsam-laced cedar, supported by moderately intense alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by fairly graceful sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are warm and have a spicy burr that flows into a fairly long spicy finish. It's not quite as behind on the palate but needs time here too; it's fairly traditional in feel and very, very young, with a lost feel to it that brings to mind a toddler who has lost his parents. I would expect it to begin to work better in 3-5 years, and age well for 15 or more.
2 stars

Il Poggione
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, revealing mentholated accents and some spice with determined swishing, and also some hints of shellac. Not much fruit. fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some acidity. On the palate it's full, with moderately sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and warmth, and by tannins that are still quite young and have a dry cedary overlay that flows into a decidedly dry finish. It needs a couple of years for the tannins to fold in, and to be frank I found them somewhat excessive because at present they overshadow the fruit, though this is a first impression of a very young wine. This said, it isn't an easy welcoming wine -- rather it demands time, and will reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Lambardi
Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with sour cherry fruit supported by some cedar -- from large wood; it lacks the intensity of barrique oak -- and some alcohol; it's still coming together and has a ways to go, but does display pleasing deftness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a clean rather tannic finish. It shows considerable promise in a fairly traditional key, but needs another year for the tannins to begin to smooth, and will reward those who have more patience.
2 stars

Siro Pacenti
Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and still coming together, with intense greenish vegetal intensity and some barnyard tang supported by deft leaf tobacco and some spice; there's not much fruit at present. On the palate it's full, with elegant rich cherry fruit that has hints of strawberry acidity and is supported by bright strawberry berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with a tannic underpinning that's quite smooth. It's elegant and graceful on the palate, while the nose is a little further behind; assuming the nose catches up it will be quite elegant in a powerful and rather sour fruit driven key. I would give it 3-5 years, and expect it to age well for 15.
2 stars

Castelgiocondo
Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by greenish acidity, spice, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity, and by tannins that are ample and fairly blocky, and flow into a fairly quick cherry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, perhaps a little more than I would expect from a Brunello, but pleasant in a middle of the road key; the acidity is nice and helps to provide direction. More complexity would have been nice, but it is pleasant enough.
2 stars

Luce della Vite
Luce Della Vite Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

A note:
This is from Castelgiocondo, and (I think) derives from the Frescobaldi - Mondavi Luce project).

Inky pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. One of the darkest. The bouquet is powerful, with chalk and graphite shavings mingled with quite a bit of alcohol and some bitter accents, mingled with nose tingling acidity and licorice root. Not much fruit, though some slightly balsamic cedar does emerge. On the palate it's frankly atypical, with rich prune fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by blocky tannins that flow into a clean rather dry prune-laced tannic finish. It's distinct with respect to all the other wines tasted so far, both in terms of fruit register, which is much much riper and shifted to prune, and in terms of tannins, which are quite bitter, and graphite laden the way none of the other wines have been. If someone were to hand me a glass where all sorts of wines are being poured and say, "what is it?" I wouldn't know. This said, because of the richness of the fruit and the mineral acidity it will work well with hearty slow cooking meats, including spicier stews such as goulash, and is worth considering if you like the style.
1 star

Pian delle Vigne
Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a fair amount of alcohol and some cedar, but not much fruit. Some sweet greenish accents, however. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flows into a fairly quick finish. It's a bit flat, lacking in richness and verve, and has a settled feel to it.
1 star

Argiano
Argiano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly bright acidity, while there is also a certain airy spice to it. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry f that's quite ripe, with sufficient slightly vegetal acidity and some cedar as well, and flows into a fairly bright sour cherry finish. Graceful in a middle of the road key, displaying lively zest but also ripeness of fruit -- not overripeness -- and if it quite pleasant; if you like the style you will enjoy it, and even if you are a stark traditionalist you will find things to think about. Opulent.
2 stars

Col D'Orcia
Col D'Orcia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly balsamic accents supporting some alcohol and moderate red berry fruit; it has an ample feel to it and is clearly still quite young. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by cherry mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a warm rather blocky burr, and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a middle of the road key, though it needs at least another year and perhaps two to come together and for the nose to think about catching up to the palate.
2 stars

La Fortuna
La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and has a slightly candied feel to it, with ripe berry fruit supported by some cedar and greenish accents, while there are also dusky shadowy accents that bring to mind dappled shade. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity and from fairly rich tannins that flow into a long cherry finish. Powerful in a middle of the road key, with cheeky rich cherry fruit that gains direction and depth from acidity and tannin; it's still young, especially on the nose, but promises nicely, and if you like the style, with is quite approachable but not as polished as the "international" school likes, you will enjoy it; it will contribute mightily to a steak or a hearty roast.
2 stars

Le Chiuse
Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's one of the paler wines. The bouquet is intense, with elegant cherry fruit supported by moderate cedar, some vegetal accents, and a fair amount of alcohol. Rich in a fairly traditional key, and very young. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by considerable cherry warmth and sour cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's graceful in a traditional key, and though very young will already drink with a steak, if you feel you must. Expect it to really come into its own in 3-5 years, however, and age well for 10-15 or more.
2 stars

Lisini
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe cherry prune fruit supporte dby some spice and slight greenish vegetal accents that add depth, also hints of berry fruit jam. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright sour berry fruit acidity with some vegetal overtones and by tannins that are warm and rather blocky, and flow into a clean rather tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs at least a year and perhaps two to come together and begin to show its best; in terms of fruit cast it is a bit unusual, with a mixture of ripe cherry and some plum -- some overripening, but it's not taken to extremes, while the acidity does provide direction and though not really strong is quite enough to do the job. In short, it's middle of the road and woefully young; it will be pleasant, and may have a certain richness though I wouldn't venture much further than to say that it won't be tremendously modern in style.
2 stars

Pacenti Franco - Canalicchio
Pacenti Franco - Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather languid, with jammy prune fruit laced with black graphite shavings and some cedar, while there is also some not camphor but slight sweet balsamic notes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with warm cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly long cedar laced burr with considerable mineral acidity. It's fairly opulent, in a ripe fruit driven key, and will drink well with succulent roasts or grilled meats. But do give it time, because both the nose and the tannins need at least a couple of years to come together and smooth and develop. When it's ready it will be fairly modern in style, I think, though that's for the future.
2 stars

Querce Bettina
Querce Bettina Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and quote oaky, with considerable cedar and some pungent shellac supported by spice and herbs, a mixture of mint and rosemary, and slight nose tingling acidity, but not much fruit. It stands out with respect to the majority of wines, in part because the oak is more evident, and in part from the herbs. On the palate it's smoother and rounder than I expected, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity that's almost hesitant, as if it doesn't want to make a stir -- though it does provide direction -- and by smooth sweet tannins that have a delicate vanilla and cedar underlay, and flow into a moderately long warm sour cherry finish. It's a more delicate rendition of Brunello, and if you're looking for power it's not here. Rather, it displays a certain grace in a softer smoother but not at all overripe key.
2 stars

Quercecchio
Quercecchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather rustic, with barnyard tang mingled with balsamic accents and a fair amount of alcohol, and also some dusky bitterness and herbs, both sage and rosemary; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense graceful sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity -- some red currants to it -- and by tannins that are ample and quite smooth, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish with lasting warmth. Quite traditional, in a slightly understated key, and if you like the style, which is rather willowy, you will enjoy it, and it will become lacy and ethereal with time. If you prefer more powerful expressions of Brunello or a more modern style you will like it less. But I found myself rather enjoying it.
2 stars

Sassetti Livio - Pertimali
Sassetti Livio - Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy cherry fruit supported by some herbal notes, and by a fair amount of alcohol. It's quite young, and still coming together. On the palate it's a bit understated, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr to them and flow into a fairly warm rather tannic finish with underlying cedar. It's behind, and I found it lacking in tightness and brightness; the acidity is there, and lots of alcohol that confers considerable warmth, but the tannins are a bit too blocky with an excess of cedar, at least at present, and I would give it 3 years to come together -- it's in what an Italian might call a fase interlocutoria, in which it is biding its time. It may emerge upstanding, but the tannins gave me pause.
1 star

Il Paradiso di Manfredi
Il Paradiso di Manfredi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky wood smoke and some spice mingled with alcohol and slight jammy accents, but not much clearly defined fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with tart sour cherry fruit supported by cherry acidity and by tannins that are smooth and soft, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish that has slight hints of sour sweetness. It's a bit in the air, with the nose a bit behind the palate. Though I liked the sourness of the fruit I'd have liked a little more forcefulness to it, and to the tannins, which are more understated than I look for in a Brunello. If you want a delicate interpretation in a fairly traditional key you will enjoy it, and it will age gracefully in a rather lacy key.
2 stars

Sancarlo
Sancarlo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rich ripe fruit driven key with a fair amount of underlying cedar and some herbs, in particular sage, and slight mint as well. Opens nicely too. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly warm tannic finish with sweetish accents that are in part wood fruit interaction. It's fairly heavily oaked and is still working though it; if you like the style, which is middle of the road and quite ripe but not overripe you will enjoy it. If you prefer more acidic, more traditional Brunello it will grab you less. In any case, it needs at least a couple of years to get its bearings and come together.
2 stars

Tenuta Greppone Mazzi
Tenuta Greppone Mazzi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents mingled with sour cherries and some dusky spice with hints of cedar as well. Pleasant and rather graceful, though it's still coming together. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate warmth, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a somewhat blocky cedar-cast in the finish, which is fairly long, with moderate sour cherry acidity. The fruit is pleasantly ripe -- cherry with acidity -- but the tannins are a bit clumpy now, for want of a better descriptor; the wine was subjected to a fair amount of oak, which should provide smoothness and polish in the future, but it hasn't gotten there yet. It's pleasant, in a softer key, and if you like that you will like it. I'd have liked a little more verve, and this is a stylistic quibble.
2 stars

Tenuta Oliveto
Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great rush of chicken broth. Savory canned chicken broth, and a fellow taster was talking about sugo, meat sauce. Unusual at best, and there is also some cedar, while there are also herbs hidden in the broth, and perhaps some fruit, though it's hard to tell. On the palate it's aple, with rich soft cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity that has some savory brothy accents, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that are a bit blocky, and flow into a clean rather mineral tannic finish. It's ripe and very soft but not overripe, and both particular and atypical of Brunello. If you like the style -- big soft wines with soft ripe -- not overripe in this case -- fruit supported by ample tannins -- you will enjoy it, but you have to know what you're getting into. It's not what I think of as Brunello.
1 star

Uccelliera
Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit unusual, with wet plaster that blows off to reveal herbal accents and some cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by fairly bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a warm slightly blocky vegetal burr in the finish, which has lasting warmth. It's ample in a middle of the road key, and needs another couple of years at least for the tannins to smooth and soften, though I suspect they will always have a slight aggressiveness to them from wood. It made me think, and this is usually a good thing; if you like the style, which is middle of the road, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Campogiovanni
Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by cedar-laced spice and some herbal accents, and some jammy notes as well. Powerful, and it's still coming together. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry raspberry acidity and by tannins that are decidedly splintery, and have yet to smooth -- quite a bit of oak here, and it is angry yet and flow into a fairly long warm finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's a child and needs time, at least a couple of years and three would be better, and will age well for 15 at least. It will reward those withg patience, but do give it time.
2 stars

Salvioni Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Bright almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with ripe cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and a fair amount of alcohol with some greenish vegetal accents and as it opens some cedar. On the palate it's fairly direct, with sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry fruit that has some dusky accents, and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a fairly tannic finish with some sour cherry accents as well and hints of cocoa. It's still a couple of years from being ready to drink; the tannins have an angriness to them that will fold in with time, but hasn't yet. I'd have liked a little more force and verve to the fruit, which is pleasant and though not settled and lacks what Italians call slancio, or drive. At present; as the tannins smooth it will likely gain some, and I would give it time.
2 stars

Tenimenti Angelini
Tenimenti Angelini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Elegant almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and in mid stride, with some herbal accents and some graphite shavings with underlying cherry fruit that's still working on coming out. Not quite a work in progress, but definitely behind. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry fruit that's sour but a little riper than some, supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and a bit understated, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's a bit understated, and I'd have liked more drive than I found, though this is also youth; there's also a fair amount of alcohol, and it has a ways to go.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Potazzine
Tenuta Le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by plums and slight fairly bright greenish accents, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm greenish peppery burr and flow into a fairly tart berry fruit finish. It's very young, and needs at least a couple of years for the tannins to smooth, but is fairy graceful, and will age nicely for a number of years. The fruit cast is fairly traditional, and it will develop nicely, though it needs time. Something to think about if you like the style, and I found it growing on me.
2 stars

Vasco Sassetti
Vasco Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather jammy with cherry fruit and considerable peppery nutmeg spice and some pungent leathery accents. The overall impression is brooding. On the palate it's moderately intense, with rather generic sour cherry fruit supported more by minerality than fruit based acidity, and by tannins that have quite a bit of cedar to them, and flow into a rather dry finish with slight sour cherry brightness. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit and brighter acidity, because it comes across as a bit more settled than I might have liked. In its defense it needs at least a couple of years for the tannins to smooth, and when they will the wine will brighten some, but I must write about what's in the glass now.
1 star

Agostina Pieri
Agostina Pieri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather pungent key, with moderate plum fruit and quite intense cedar that has some redwood accents to it, and some savory notes as well that bring bouillon to mind. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are ample and rather blocky, and flow into a clean dry fairly tannic finish. It's in mid stride, especially on the nose, and needs another couple of years to come together and forge a unified whole; at present the tannins overshadow everything in the finish with considerable splinteriness, and I hope that they will smooth with time. Time will tell, but I think it will always be fairly tannic in a peppery key, and is a wine you should consider only if you like this style.
1 star

Donna Olga
Donna Olga Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright jammy cherry fruit that has fairly intense vegetal accents and some peppery spice with some underbrush and wet leaves as well. Fairly rich. On the palate it's bright, with fairly sweet jammy cherry fruit that gains direction from moderate sour cherry acidity and is supported by tannins that are fairly smooth and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. It's pleasant in a rather opulent key, and if you like the style, which is bright and sunny, you will enjoy it. It does however need a couple of years to get its bearings and come together, and will subsequently age well for a decade at least.
2 stars

Brunelli
Brunelli Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's paler than many. The bouquet is fairly intense, with pungent green leather and some balsamic accents mingled with some spice and some dried mushrooms, with fairly intense herbal accents as well -- towards artichoke. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and smooth, with a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish. It's fairly traditional in key, and bright, and though it needs another couple of years for the tannins to smooth will already work with a steak (if you must), and will also age very well for a number of years. Worth seeking out. If you like the style.
2 stars

Camigliano Camignliano Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006
Fairly pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's one of the paler wines poured. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some green leather, and as it opens a fair amount of alcohol that confers a certain sweetness, and some hints of underbrush. On the palate it's ample, with fairly soft sour cherry fruit supported by alcohol that confers sweetness, and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet, while direction comes from fairly bright sour cherry acidity. It's pleasant in a tart key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer richer, rounder fruit it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Canneta
Canneta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim; it's fairly pale. The bouquet is fairly intense and rather rustic, with a fair amount of alcohol and leafy pungency mingled with some greenish accents and slight menthol and nutmeg spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather blocky, and flow into a rather sour finish. I'd have liked a little more depth and verve; it's not settled, but not really chomping at the bit either.
1 star

Capanna
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a bit riper than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by greenish accents and a fair amount of cedar, and also a fair amount of alcohol. It needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ripe cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and tannins that are greenish and rather blocky, and flow into a decidedly tannic finish. It's still up in the air and tumbling; there's quite a bit of tannin, some from oak, and it needs at least a couple of years to begin to absorb it all. This said, I'd have liked a little more brightness overtones the fruit, which is slightly lacking in acidity.
1 star


La Gerla
La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and mentholated, with greenish notes and a fair amount of alcohol mingled with cocoa and some dark chocolate. A lot of wood, which at present overshadows the fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cocoa-laced cherry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly splintery burr, and flow into a fisnish that quickly settles into lasting warmth. It's heavily oaked and needs a couple of years to digest it, though I think it will always be fairly oaky; my problem with it is that there's not as much fruit as I might have liked to contrast the oak. We'll see how it cleans up, in 2-3 years' time.
1 star

Fanti
Fanti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol and moderate shellac mingled with some vegetal notes and spice from wood, though there's less fruit than I had hoped for. Some cedar, however. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cour cherry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a lively peppery burr and flow into a bright sour cherry finish with lively tannic underpinning. It's very young, in a tart key that has a fair amount of wood it will have to absorb over the next 2-3 years, and will age well for a number of years thereafter. It's pleasant in a rather aggressive middle of the road key, but needs time for the nose to develop and the tannins to smooth. I would expect it to age well for at least 10-15 years.
2 stars

Fossacolle
Fossacolle Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections; it's darker than many. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some underbrush and a fair amount of cedar with some shellac and an underlying coolness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and decidedly bitter, with moderately intense rather generic berry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and minerality more than acidity, and it flows into a rather bitter finish with a blocky greenish tannic underpinning. I'd have liked more fruit than it displays. This said, it's woefully young, and frankly overtannic, at least for me; I wonder if it will ever absorb all the tannins.
1 star

L'Aietta
L'Aietta Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Fairly rich almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by a fair amount of alcohol and some sweetish accents that are in part the alcohol, and also by greenish accents and some spice. On the palate it's not as rich as I expected; there's fairly ripe smooth berry fruit that's supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a distinctly bitter graphite underpinning and flow into a warm rather bitter finish that gives way to dry greenish tannins. It's pleasant in a fairly up front key, though a little more richness and charge to the fruit would have been nice, especially in the finish, which I found overly tannic and dry. It needs another couple of years at least to come together, and will then age for a decade at least.
1 star

La Fiorita
La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite green, with chalky accents and some red berry fruit as well, though what opens is the greenish vegetal cast; there's also greenish spice and some greenish acidity; it's powerful but the fruit is taking second seat to other aspects. On the palate it's quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol and a fair amount of sweetness that is in part from alcohol, while there are also dusky bitter accents, which emerge more in the finish, while the tannins are ample and fairly well polished, flowing into a spicy tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed and needs a couple of years to get its bearings. It's quite aggressive, with tannins that make it rather dry.
1 star

Piombaia
Piombaia Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed, with greenish accents mingled with some cedar and some berry fruit, and also a fair amount of alcohol and some shellac, which is likely from wood. On the palate it's ample and a bit soft, with broad sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that has some red currant to it, and by tannins that are ample and smooth, and flow into a fairly soft tannic cherry finish with bright tart sour berry fruit acidity. It needs a year the tannins to smooth and for the nose to come together, but it's pleasant in a fairly tart aggressive key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will also age nicely for a number of years. If you prefer rounder more ripe fruit driven wines it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Poggio Antico
Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with greenish accents and some spice, and also some vegetal notes and slight herbs and brambles, with some pungent wood smoke, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense rather dusky cherry fruit that has a slightly dilute feel to it, supported more by bitterness than by acidity (though there is some of that too) and by tannins that are quite dry, and flow into a clean dry tannic finish. It's a bit thin, and I found myself wishing for more fruit to better balance the tannins, This said, it does manage a certain grace, and will become ethereal with time. I would simply have expected a little more from the 2006 vintage, though it is in keeping with Poggio Antico's style, which revolves more around finesse than power..
2 stars

Verbena
Verbena Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable red berry fruit supported by some balsamic accents and green leather with pleasant spice as well; it's fairly rich and though young does display a certain grace. On the palate it's richer than I expected, with brandied cherry fruit supported by moderate balsamic acidity and quite a bit of alcohol, and by considerable bitterness, while the tannins are quite bitter and rather dusky, and it flows into a fairly alcoholic finish with strong tannic underpinning. It's a bit disjointed, and quite ripe with a lot of alcohol and quite a bit of tannin that has to be absorbed, while there isn't as much acidity as I might have hoped for. I would give it 3-5 years to come together, and then drink it with a steak or roast.
1 star

Bellaria
Bellaria Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with a fair amount of alcohol and some spice. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol, which contributes to its sweet feel, and by moderate berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are ample and rather dusky, flowing into a clean rather dry tannic finish with sour cherry underpinning. I would have liked a little more richness and verve to the fruit. This said, it needs a couple of years to get its bearings and come together, and will subsequently age well for a decade at least.
1 star

Caprili
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with quite a bit of shellac mingled with spice and cedar, but not much fruit; there is however a fair amount of alcohol too, and some leafy underbrush. On the palate it's fairly rich, and riper than many, with cherry plum fruit supported by bright plum laced acidity and tannins that are ample and rather blocky in youth, and flow into a warm fairly bright cherry plum finish with dry tannic underpinning. It's riper than I might have guessed from the nose, and also rather alcoholic; this said it needs another couple of years for the nose to catch up and the tannins to smooth, and will then work well for you if you like ample, fruit driven wines that are quite ripe, but do have a firm tannic underpinning. If you prefer livelier more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

La Velona
La Velona Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour berry fruit supported by some green leather and quite a bit of cedar that emerges powerfully with the second swish, and quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with dusky cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense plum acidity, and by tannins that are greenish and blocky, and flow into a fairly rich greenish tannic finish with lasting bitterness. It's still quite young, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly aggressive key, I think, and is something to consider only if you like this style.
1 star

Lazzeretti
Lazzeretti Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol and fairly direct vegetal accents, with quite a bit of shellac as well, which is from wood. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are ample and cedar laced, with a warm peppery burr that flows into a clean cedar laced berry fruit finish that's fairly long, winding up with tannic notes. It's quite young, and though it is a little awkward -- one has the impression of a teen in the middle of a growth spurt -- it will I think do interesting things over the next couple of years, and age well for at least a decade.
1 star

Podere Le Ripi
Podere le Ripi Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2006

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a great rush of oak that is almost like a time warp to the glory days of the barrique, with some spice and moderate alcohol, but little else. It's like sniffing a barrel. On the palate it's unusual, with moderately intense savory berry fruit supported by an odd mix of chemical and cedar that is certainly wood-fruit interaction, and tannins that are warm and cedar laced, flowing into a spicy, peppery tannic finish with lasting mineral berry fruit acidity and metallic notes. A terrific amount of wood, and though the wine is doing its best to digest it, it never will completely.
1 star

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Amarone Anteprima: The 2006 Vintage

There's 's no getting around it, Amarone is going places: The Valpolicella appellation was declared 2009's Winemaking Region of the Year by Wine Enthusiast (beating out, among others, Champagne), while the world's counterfeiters recently paid it a backhanded complement of sorts, by trying to slip more than a million bottles of fake Amarone into the world markets. Considering that the total production of Amarone is under 10 million bottles, one has an idea of how highly the criminals valued Amarone.

Truth be told, the counterfeiters may have been trying to take advantage of Amarone's last year as a DOC wine, because the other big development for the Appellation was the attainment of DOCG status, for both Amarone and Recioto. In addition to being more prestigious, DOCG wines are more closely supervised than DOC wines, and bear a fascetta, or band, issued by the Government with codes identifying the winery, bottle size, and other information that would have presented a serious hurdle for people trying to slip a million bottles unnoticed into the markets.

Things are also moving for Amarone from a qualitative standpoint, and in (I think) the right direction. Last year the Appellation announced it would be substantially increasing the number of bottles of Amarone produced to meet heightened demand, and I wrote that this was a bad thing, because the vineyard area of the appellation is fixed, and I doubted it would be able to support an increase in Amarone production while maintaining quality levels.

This year, however, the producers were faced -- like everyone else -- with the economic crunch. A cellar with more of an expensive wine than importers feel they can afford is a winemaker's nightmare, and they moved with surprising speed to cut production, reducing the volume of grapes set aside to dry and become Amarone by 30%. Reducing the volume of dried grapes will reduce the volume of wine produced, avoiding a glut, and should also maintain if not increase quality, because the winemakers will be setting their best grapes aside.

In short, Amarone producers have reacted to the crisis with savvy determination, and I hope they will continue to follow this path when things improve, rather than jack up production with a probable decrease in quality.

So much for 2009. What of 2006, the vintage we were presented?

Let me begin by saying it is a distinct step up from the 2005 vintage presented last year, though it wasn't without its difficulties. The spring started late, and was both cool and damp, factors that delayed budbreak some. And then, during the flowering at the beginning of June, there were heavy rains that damaged the blossoms on some of the vines.

The weather then improved, and was hotter than usual through the rest of June and July, hot enough that the vines began to feel drought stress and ripening began to slow. Repeated August rains took care of this problem, and then the weather cleared and remained clear, with hot days, cool nights, and low humidities through September and October. The winemakers were therefore able to let the grapes ripen completely and harvest them at the optimal moment.

The drying phase, which is equally important for the production of Amarone, was also good, with sunny dry days and nights; drying was uneventful and did not require the use of dehumidifiers. The grapes that went into the tanks were quite high in sugar, with relatively low acidities, and had uniformly sweet ripe tannins. The resultant wines, taken as a group, are strong, with high alcohol contents, have good concentration of fruit and aromas, and are with respect to some other vintages more approachable and readier to drink, though they certainly will benefit from bottle age. The one shadowy note in this otherwise pretty picture is acidity, which is in many cases relatively low, and this is in part due to changes in the Disciplinare, which have allowed the exclusion of Molinara, the traditional third grape of the Valpolicella blend (the other two are Rondinella and Corvina), which was planted primarily because it was more certain to produce than the other two in off vintages, but also contributed -- I have been told -- a measure of acidity. However, the bottom line is that the 2006 Amarone is an interesting wine that will age well, and have quite a bit to say.

This year 65 winemakers presented their wines at the Anteprima, some are well established, well known names, and others are newcomers to the field, but taken as a whole they provided a nice panorama. But not a complete one; a number of the best known producers, including Allegrini, Tommaso Bussola, Quintarelli, and Dal Forno chose not to participate. A pity, because had they participated the picture provided by the Anteprima would have been richer and more faceted.

Before we get to the wines, a few words on the tasting:
The Disciplinare governing the production of Amarone states that the wine must be aged for at least two years before bottling, and in the case of a wine harvested in 2006 this means that those who want to can bottle at the beginning of 2009. And some do. But most prefer to give the wine more time, and some are still waiting. Therefore, we were presented with a mixture of wines, some of which have been in bottle for quite a while (and are on the market), some of which for just a couple of months (and will be released soon), and some that are still in cask, vat, or barrel (and will be released in 2011).

It is very difficult to compare bottled wines and barrel samples, because barrel samples are to a degree like lumps of clay: They can display great, even tremendous potential. But they are not complete, because a great many aspects, especially of the bouquet, develop in the bottle. For this reason I generally do not score barrel samples. However, I am making a partial exception in this case, scoring the barrel samples that showed well, because what is showing well now will presumably continue to show well in the future. As for the barrel samples that are not showing well, I prefer to simply talk about them and wait, because they could improve dramatically (as could the wines that have just a couple of months of bottle age). In other words, though I do give scores, in this case I think the notes and general impressions give a much more accurate picture of the wines.

The Wines, Tasted January 30 2010

Sartori Reius Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is not quite as clean as it might be; there's a hint of mustiness to it mingled with greenish accents and some sour berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by graphite shaving bitterness, while the tannins are ample and soft, and flow into a clean soft bitter finish. I'd have liked a little more definition and backbone to it; it has a languor to it that I would have been happier to find in an older wine. Kids (and these are kids) are supposed to be on their toes.
1 star

F.lli Fabiano Nicola Fabiano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brandied cherries underlain by greenish accents and some penetrating alcohol, with an underlying coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit -- less than I expected from the nose -- supported by dusky tannins that are quite smooth, and have a cedary overlay to them, flowing into a fairly long clean rather soft finish. It's up in the air, and needs to come together, because at present the tannins have a muddying influence on it. When they smooth it could be interesting, but it's too soon to say.

Valentina Cubi Morar Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, in a youthful key, with slightly brandied cherry fruit supported by red berries and greenish accents, with some underlying spice. Enticing. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet, with elegant brandied cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that though smooth do have a slight greenish burr, and moderate acidity, which flow into a clean plum finish that has some brown sugar and oatmeal accents. Pleasant, in a cheeky sort of way, and though it is very young one could drink it with a rich stew even now. But those who have patience will be rewarded, because it has a ways to go yet. If you like this fairly sweet style of Amarone you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Monteci Costa delle Corone Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable greenish accents interwoven with cedar and some peppery spice; there's not much fruit, though there are hints of leather. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by bitterness more than acidity, bitterness from soft tannins, that flow into a cool plum laced finish with underlying tannic bitterness that has a slightly metallic tang. It's a bit settled, and young to be in this state.
1 star

Guerrieri Rizzardi Calcarole Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with brandied red berry fruit supported by greenish accents and pleasing dusky spice that has a degree of coolness to it, and, as it opens, wet leaves. It's quite young, and in mid stride, but going in a nice direction. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity -- enough to keep it going and by tannins that have a greenish graphite shaving bitterness to them, and flow into a fairly long plum finish that gains definition and contrast from the graphite. Pleasant in a sweeter key, and it needs time -- another couple of years -- to come together; if you like this rather curvy voluptuous style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Tezza Brolo delle Giare Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Dusky deep almandine with black reflections and garnet in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and sweet, with dried prunes mingled with brown sugar and hints of oatmeal, and underlying spice with hints of cedar, supported by alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with less fruit than I expected; what is present is quite ripe, into plum and prune, and supported more by dusky graphite shaving bitterness than acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, and flow into a decidedly bitter finish. I would have liked greater acidity, because it's a bit flat.
1 star

Bixio Produttori Amarone Bixio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a greenish rhubarb key, with dusky berry fruit as well; it's fairly one-dimensional at present and this is youth. On the palate it's ample, with moderate red berry fruit supported by more acidity than I expected from the nose, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It is direct, and this is youth, but it may go places that are interesting with time. In other words, I would wait on it, because it's in swaddling clothes now; with respect to many of the other Amaroni it has more acidity and this makes it more refreshing, and lithe. But it needs time.


Aldegheri Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great lot of bitter greenish cedar and slight hints of animal tang. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, moderately sweet, and fairly soft, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and moderate berry fruit acidity that flow into a fairly bitter finish. It's quite young, and really not happy about being poured; if you can give it a year or two it will do interesting things, I think. But it needs time.
2 stars

Aldrighetti Luigi, Angelo, Nicola Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine tending towards orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal and rhubarb accents supported by cedar and brambly acidity more than fruit, though there are some tart currants. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry currant fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and by tannins that are smooth and bitter, with slight hints of graphite, and flow into a brandied cherry finish with underlying bitterness. It's quite young, but shows promise, and is a wine I would wait for, because it is on its toes, and a young wine should be.
2 stars

Le Marognole Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and fairly sweet, with rhubarb and cherry mingled with duskiness and slight gum Arabic, and also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by bitter cedar and graphite shavings, and moderate acidity that flow into a dusky slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's going in more than one direction now, and needs to pull together. Which it will, becoming delicate and rather lacy with time. In short, it has potential, and if you like a less exuberant style you will enjoy it. It also has the potential to age well for 10 years at least. It made me think.
2 stars

Manara Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with bell pepper jelly mingled with cedar and brambles with hints of rhubarb and slight hardwood ash that gains barnyard tang as it opens; there's something haunting to it. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, though not as bright as I had expected; the fruit is red berry with some currants, and there is acidity, while the tannins are ample and smooth, flowing into a clean rather bitter finish. With more acidity it would have been brighter; in its defense it is very young and the pieces are still coming together. In short, it needs time.
1 star

Marchesi Fumanelli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with bitter graphite and brown sugar; there are hints of red berry fruit and brandied cherries, but they are in the background now. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich dusky berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness with pleasant savory accents and some brambly acidity that flow into a clean savory finish. It's deft, in an ample alcoholic key, and though it is quite young, it promises well, and will age nicely. I found it growing upon me, and think it will age nicely, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Vigneti Villabella Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with brambles and greenish accents mingled with spice; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright minerality more than fruit, dusky graphite supported by moderate mineral acidity and bitter tannins that flow into a dry fairly bitter finish. It's ready, though it will age nicely for another 5-10 years at least, becoming quite tertiary (with leather and leaf tobacco) with time. It's not a fruit driven wine, but it does have potential for the future.
1 star

Zenato Azienda Vitivinicola Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable black almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of greenish petroleum/cedar overlying brambles and some wood smoke, but not much fruit, though there is an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's ample, and sweeter than the nose suggested, with spicy plum fruit supported by warmth and slight menthol, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather dusky slightly bitter finish. It's a bit disjointed and this is youth; with respect to many it has more acidity, and is therefore fresher. I would give it a year at least, and think it will show better in 2-4, aging nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Buglioni Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with mentholated cedar and savory accents mingled with some underbrush. Pleasant, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry fruit that has some sweet plum overtones supported by dusky tannic bitterness and savory notes that flow into a distinctly brooding bitter tannic finish. Were it a person it would be under a cloud, but it does display a degree of grace and lacy elegance, and will also age nicely. You do have to like wines that are more brooding, however; if you like brighter sunnier wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Gnirega Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with plum and plum marmalade mingled with brown sugar and some spice. Also hints of oatmeal. On the palate it's drier than I expected from the nose, with ample rather dry plum fruit supported by tannins that have a bitter cedar underlay and flow into a sour plum laced bitter finish; there's not much acidity, and it therefore settles, not to say sags.
1 star

Monte Zovo Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish cedar and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense mentholated cherry and plum fruit supported by spicy tannins that have a greenish overlay to them, and by fairly bright mineral acidity that leads into a clean, dusky bitter finish with some earthy petroleum accents. It's very young, and needs a couple of years to get its bearings, after which it will age well for a decade or more. Brighter acidity would have been nice, but it will be lacy with time.
2 stars

Nicolis Angelo e Figli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Looks fresher than many. The bouquet is ample, with berry fruit supported by strawberry jam and some menthol and hints of underbrush, a combination that brings a bouquet that has been sitting in a vase for a few days to mind. On the palate it's bright, with fairly lively cherry plum fruit supported by brambly acidity, and by tannins that are a little thinner than I expected, with greenish dusky bitterness, and flow into a clean brambly finish with underlying sour bitterness. It's up in the air, but has a suppleness to it that many of the other Amaroni lack, thanks to its acidity, and will age nicely; I would expect the pieces to come into place in the space of a couple of years, and for the wine to work well with roasts or stews for at least a decade thereafter. One important thing to add is that it's more supple than massive.
2 stars

I Scriani Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable greenish cedar mingled with some animal tang -- lathered horse -- and spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich soft cherry fruit supported by cheeky berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are gritty, with a splintery greenish burr, and flow into a rather dusky bitter finish. It's in mid-stride, with the nose behind the palate, and needs at least a year to come together, though 2 will be better. Judging it now is like judging a babe in swaddling clothes.

Latium Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy slightly cooked prunes mingled with some brown sugar, alcohol, and spice. It gives an impression of sweetness. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with bitter prune fruit supported more by savory minerality than acidity, and by amble slightly greenish bitter tannins that flow into a clean green berry fruit finish. It isn't as bright as I might have liked, and though I found the fruit enjoyable in a Recioto-based direction, I found myself wishing for more acidity. Bitter tannins are much less interesting.
1 star

San Rustico Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and cedar mingled with shellac (from oak, I think) and alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's richer than I expected, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by delicate acidity and fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright finish, with tannins and some raspberry acidity. The palate is well ahead of the nose, and if the nose follows its lead the wine will be pleasant, and also age nicely. But it needs time, at least 2 years.
2 stars

Terre di Leone Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with sweet prunes mingled with wet earth and some mentholated spice. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with rich prune fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness, moderate acidity -- enough to keep it firmly on its toes -- and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet prune finish with -- again -- a brown sugar underpinning, which is balanced by tannic bitterness. It's ample, and fairly rich, but the bitterness is strong enough to give it a brooding cast despite the acidity, which in the end surrenders to it. In short, it's under a cloud. But, if you like the style, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Boscaini Carlo San Giorgio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with sweetish accents mingled with bell pepper greenness and intriguing savory floral notes; there is also red berry fruit underlying it all. Invigorating, somehow. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with savory minerality laced with cedar more than fruit, which I found growing upon me, supported by mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. It's not fruit driven, but is nicely balanced, and invites a second sip after the first. It is also ready now, though it will continue to age nicely for many years. A little more richness of fruit would have been nice, but it does drink well.
2 stars

Cav. G. B. Bertaini Villa Arvedi Amarone Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC 2006
Deep black garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The nose is eye opening, with an initial rush of barnyard tang -- wet stable straw -- mingled with sea salt and some brambly notes, also hints of cedar. On the palate it's ample, and savory, with moderately intense mineral-laced berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a savory finish. It's a big wine, and very traditional bordering on rustic, especially on the nose, and also needs another couple of years to get its bearings at which point it will age well for a decade or (probably) more. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but it's not for everyone.
2 stars

Speri Viticoltori Vigneto Monte Sant'Urbano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with chalky greenish mentholated accents mingled with ripe cherry plum fruit and some underlying cedar; there are also hints of sapone di Marsiglia, the traditional Italian laundry soap. On the palate it's ample, with dusky plum fruit supported by warm bitterness that flows into a cedar-laced bitter finish. Note he word flow, the wine gives an impression of thickness, and I think this is due to its concentration, coupled with a reliance on tannins more than acidity to carry the show.
1 star

Giuseppe Campagnola Vigneti Vallata di Marano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with cedar and some spice. Not much fruit, though swishing dos bring up some plums and prunes. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cherry plum fruit that I hadn't completely expected from the nose, supported by fairly bright mineral plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich plum finish with tannic underpinning. The nose is behind the palate, which is pleasant in a rather cheeky way, and I would give the wine at least a year to come together and develop. It has the potential to age well for a decade or more, but needs the time to get there. A sleeper that grew upon me.
2 stars

CĂ  La Bionda Vigneti di Ravazzoi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and frankly chemical, with shellac and cedar mingled with something that brings to mind airplane glue. Lots of wood, which the wine has yet to digest. On the palate it's ample, with soft plum fruit supported by dusky cedar laced tannins whose cedar component gains strength as it flows into the finish, which is decidedly bitter. A tremendous amount of oak, which overshadows all, and though it is actually quite drinkable -- it's good oak -- you should only consider it if you like heavily oaked wines.
1 star

Zeni F.lli s.a.s. Vigne Alte Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is warm, with prune and cherry fruit laced with sweetness and brown sugar, and supported by spice and alcohol; the overall impression is rather haunting. On the palate it's fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a prune laced rather bitter finish with savory undercurrents. It's ample, smooth, and soft, and given its youth this sort of profile is not good, because it won't perk up with time. In short, I don't think it will be long lived, and Amarone should be.

Cantina Sociale della Valpantena Torre del Falasco Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with greenish accents and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by dusky cedar laced tannins and some mineral acidity, which flow into a clean rather dusky prune finish with some brown sugar sweetness, balanced by dusky tannic bitterness. The nose is behind the palate, which is fairly pleasant, though it too needs time, at least a year and perhaps 2. It's a wine I would set aside, because I think it will do interesting things in the next 8-10 years.
2 stars

Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine Terre di Cariano - Cecilia Beretta Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly oaky, with considerable cedar mingled with airiness and some greenish accents, also slight barnyard tang. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly bright plum laced finish with slight tannic underpinning. It's a babe tightly wrapped in swaddling clothes, and whose bouquet is way behind the palate. It needs at least a year and more likely 2 to be grudgingly approachable, at which point it will be pleasant in a fairly international key, with nice fruit and nice acidity. In short, we're looking at a partially painted canvas now, one that is simply too young to score. But that will be nice.

Novaia Selezione Corte Vaona Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up cedar laced with spice (including ground cumin), graphite shavings and some sea salt. Precious little fruit. On the palate it's ample and very bitter, with sea salt that gives way to tongue curling bitterness that lasts and lasts. And lasts. It's like sucking on a barrel slat.
1 star

Santi Proemio Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bitter accents mingled with cedar and some spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense fairly sweet prune fruit laced with brown sugar and hints of oatmeal, supported by very bitter dusty tannins that flow into an almost searing bitter finish. It's quite young, and the searing qualities will fade some with time, but it's set, with more tannin than acidity carrying it, and I'm not sure how well it will age.
1 star

Antolini Pierpaolo e Stefano Moròpio Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum fruit supported by brown sugar and some oatmeal, and by cedar-laced sweetish spice. Pleasant, in a slightly subdued key. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with dusky plum prune fruit supported by savory minerality and spice more than acidity, and by smooth bitter tannins that flow into a brooding, slightly bitter prune finish with some greenish accents. Pleasant, though you have to like this brooding style. If you prefer brighter wines, I won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Bolla Le Origini Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is frankly rustic, with wet stable straw mingled with bramble and wet leaves; there isn't much fruit to it, though as it opens leather also emerges. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively savory cherry plum fruit supported by fairly bright savory acidity, and by smooth fairly sweet tannins that do have a savory burr, and flow into a warm savory finish with tart fruit underpinning and some bitterness. It's pleasant in a traditional key, and much more agile than many of the other Amaroni presented; if you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will also age nicely for many years, becoming lacy and lathery with time. In short, worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Corte Campagnola Gli Archi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets (something odd for a wine this old) mingled with plum cherry fruit and spice; it is obviously developing and in mid stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sweet plum fruit supported by moderate greenish acidity and tannins that have a dusky cedar burr, and flow into a fairly long bitter greenish finish. It's fairly direct, and though this is in part youth it is also in part character.
2 stars

Vogadori F.lli F.ll Vogadori Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim that has brownish accents. It looks older than it is. The bouquet is unusual, with candied grape and plum aromas laced with sweetness and some vegetal accents, and with more swishing wet dark brown sugar. Almost molasses. On the palate it's ample, and much less sweet than I expected; there's moderate sour berry fruit supported by cedar-laced greenish tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a bitter finish that simply fades, with no fruit. It is in mid-stride, and to be honest I'm not sure where it is going. We will have to see.

Cantina Valpolicella Negrar Domini Veneti Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is greenish, with a fair amount of cedar and underlying bitterness shot with animal tang. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate plum fruit supported by spice and bitterness more than acidity, and it flows into a savory bitter finish. It's fairly settled, and unfortunately the relative lack of acidity means that it isn't really going to perk up.
1 star

Albino Armani Cusianus Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and some greenish vegetal accents. Nice balance, and it gives an impression of lightness. On the palate it's fairly rich, and quite young, with bright brambly berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by tannins that have a greenish burr and flow into a clean vegetal finish. It's pleasant in a brambly tomboyish key, and though quite young will drink well with grilled meats or stews now, and also has the capacity o age well for a decade or more. I would give it some time, because it will I think do interesting things.
2 stars

Tenuta Sant'Antonio Campo dei Gigli Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is up in the air, with spice mingled with lactic acid and an airiness that brings latex to mind. Not much else at present. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate plum fruit that is overshadowed by savory notes and tannic bitterness, which flow into more of the same in the finish. It's settled, and this isn't going to change as it ages.
1 star

Castellani Michele e Figli Campo Casalin I Castei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is chemical, with aromas of rubber cement and cedar that are, I think, extreme youth. It's up in the air. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by savory bitterness more than acidity, and it flows into a decidedly bitter finish. The nose is behind the palate, but the palate is going in a direction -- more bitterness than acidity -- that will lead to a brooding, not particularly happy wine.
1 star

Gamba Campedei Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with considerable cedar and some berry fruit, but cedar more than anything else. On the palate it's fairly intense, with dusky red berry fruit supported by slight berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a clean cedar-laced finish that's fairly bright. It needs another year to get its bearings, but is pleasant, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Tinazzi CĂ  dei Rocchi - La Bastia Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by greenish accents, quite a bit of alcohol, and penetrating cedar. On the palate it's brighter, than I expected, with cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by milky tannic bitterness that has cedar underpinning, and flow into a rather bitter cedar laced finish. It's a bit settled, and will never be really bright, alas. But it will drink nicely with succulent roasts or stews.
1 star

Recchia F.lli CĂ  Betoldi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit rustic, with some wet stable straw mingled with wet leaves and some underbrush and a certain airiness. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It's woefully young, but pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style it will drink well with grilled meats or stews, though it will be much better 2-3 years from now that it is today, and will age well for a decade longer.
2 stars

Accordini Stefano Acinatico Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with wet stable straw mingled with underbrush and wet leaves. It has a ripe pungency to it. On the palate it's ample, with dusky fairly sweet plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish bitter burr to them and by moderate mineral more than fruit driven acidity, flowing into a spicy bitter tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed, and this is youth, but it is also a bit more settled than I might have liked. I would age it for a year or two, but wouldn't expect it to age for long.
1 star

Arduini Luciano Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with jammy red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and rhubarb; there's a pleasant haunting quality o it. On the palate it's full, and fairly soft, with bright berry fruit supported by moderate bitterness and moderate rather lactic acidity that flows into a clean bitter plum finish with sandalwood underpinning. It's quite young, and is still in the air, between here and there. I'm not sure which direction it will fall, because the acidity isn't quite as marked as I would like it to have been in a young wine.
1 star

Benedetti Soc. Agr Corte Antica Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and penetrating, with wood smoke mingled with alcohol and spice more than fruit. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by slightly sour acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright cedar-laced finish. It's a child in the woods, and has a ways to go before it comes together completely. But it is pleasant, and will drink well with foods now, though if you can give it time it will reward you. I would expect it to age well for 8-10 years at least.
2 stars

CĂ  Rugate Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish cedar mingled with lactic acid and a fair amount of penetrating acidity. On the palate it's brighter than one might have expected, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by sour plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum laced finish supported by deft acidity. It's pleasant, with the nose behind the palate, and will develop nicely over then next couple of years; it will age very well too, for a decade or more. It's fairly traditional, but not rustic, and is worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Roccolo Grassi Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with menthol and considerable cedar. On the palate it's ample, with soft plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and considerable cedar laced bitterness that flows into a cedar-laced finish. Quite a bit of wood, over soft fruit, and though the wine will perhaps ultimately digest the wood, it will remain soft and with relatively little acidity.
1 star

Rubinelli Vajol Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with interlaced animal tang -- wet stable straw -- and some spice. Eye opening. On the palate it's ample and soft, with cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean fairly soft finish. It's quite drinkable, but I would have liked more depth and power to it.
1 star

Tenuta Galtarossa Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy spicy mentholated accents. Not much fruit, but instead alcohol and an abundance of cedar. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright berry fruit finish that gains depth from dusky bitterness. It's very young, with the nose behind the palate, but displays considerable depth and elegance, and will drink nicely with roasts and stews even now, though it will also richly reward those with the patience to give it a few years. Expect it to age well for 10-15.
2 stars

Tommasi Viticoltori Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with candied red berry fruit supported by brandied accents and some cedar. Pleasant. On the palate it's ample and quite sweet, with clean bright plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum fruit finish. An elegant, fairly sweet expression of Amarone, and will drink very well with succulent stews or roasts. Pleasant, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Cantina di Soave Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar mingled with some greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense minerality more than fruit supported by mineral acidity and cedar laced tannins that flow into a clean mineral finish. There's less fruit than one might have liked or expected form an Amarone.
1 star

Cesari Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly greenish, with cedar and some wood smoke mingled with considerable graphite shaving bitterness. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with moderately intense plum fruit supported by plum acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly savory finish. It's quite drinkable, but I would have liked greater brightness and depth to the fruit than I found. In particular, the finish fades into cedary bitterness that is a bit settled.
1 star

Corte Sant'Alda Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense, and cedar laced, with greenish accents and a fair amount of alcohol, but not that much in the way of fruit. Some plum, but not much else. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich plum fruit supported by savory acidity and by smooth sweet cedar laced tannins. It's more along on the nose than the palate, and pleasant, though in a slightly dusky, shadowy key. I would give it a couple of years to come together, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Dal Bosco Giulietta Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and slightly brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with cedar and some greenish accents more than fruit. On the palate it's sweeter than one might have expected from the nose, with fairly rich sweet plum fruit laced with lactic acid and milky acidity, while the tannins are soft and cedary, and flow into a clean rather bitter lactic finish. It's almost milky, and this is a factor of youth and development. I hesitate to score it, because it's a babe well wrapped in swaddling clothes. But I do expect it to be fairly soft, in a ripe plum laced key.

Monte Dall'Ora Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum fruit supported by alcohol and dusky berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by fairly bright plum acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have savory accents and slow into a savory plum finish. It's fairly direct, and is already quite ripe; the acidity isn't such that I would expect it to age for long.
1 star

F.lli Tedeschi Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim that has slight brownish highlights. On the palate it's distinctly vegetal, with greenish bell pepper mingled with some bell pepper jam and greenish spice, also some artichoke. In short, green. On the palate it's greenish too, with savory bell pepper supported by cedar and moderate minerality more than spice, which flow into a fairly quick cedar laced finish. It's very much up in the air, and needs more time to come together and develop.

Monte del FrĂ  Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with cedar and some wood smoke, also a fair amount of alcohol. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and sooth, with richer than expected plum fruit supported by lively plum acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright plum laced finish. Pleasant in a ripe key, and will drink well with drier roasts or stews. It also needs time; though one could drink it now it will do better in 2-4 years, and age well for a decade or more.
2 stars

Fraccaroli Domenico Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with ripe plum fruit supported by slight greenish accents and some bell pepper jelly with hints of artichoke greenness as well. In short, ripe and fairly vegetal. On the palate it's ample, with moderately sweet plum fruit supported by greenish accents that flow into a clean bright cedar laced finish; there's not as much acidity as I might have liked, but it will be pleasant enough in the short term. Not enough acidity for long aging.
2 stars

Musella Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is very young, with cedar and some chemical accents; it smells like it's fresh out of the barrel and has a ways to go in terms of development. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with plum fruit supported by cedar-laced bitterness more than acidity, and by ample cedar laced tannins that have again bitterness, this time more graphite, and flow into a fairly sweet prune finish that has a decidedly bitter tannic underpinning. There isn't as much acidity as I might have hoped for; the wine is settled now, and will not perk up with time.
1 star

Trabucchi Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Barrel sample
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice; the impression is of considerable youth. On the palate it's ample, with greenish plum fruit supported by dusky greenish acidity and tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart greenish savory finish. A distinctly vegetal wine -- and this is at least in part youth -- but pleasant and nicely balanced, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style, which is also fairly traditional.
2 stars

F.lli Farina Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish accents and some wet stable straw mingled with brambly notes. Fairly rustic. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit overshadowed by cedar laced acidity and by rather evanescent cedary tannins that flow into a direct cherry plum finish. It's a bit hulking, and gives an impression of being firmly in place.
1 star

Venturini Massimo e Figli Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar mingled with some barnyard tang and moderate spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full and soft, with fairly intense plum fruit supported by savory accents and bitterness more than acidity, and it all flow into a clean rather bitter finish. I'd have liked more acidity, than I found.
1 star

Zecchini Amarone Della Valpolicella Valpantena DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rather green, with a fair amount of alcohol mingled menthol and some spice; not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly soft, with cherry plum fruit supported more by dusky bitterness than acidity, though some hints of acidity to emerge in the finish, of the mineral variety. Pleasant enough though very young, and needs a year or two to begin to get its bearings; because of the plum laced fruit cast and the relative weakenss of the acidity I a not sure how much beyond 5 years it will age.
2 stars

Le Tobele Amarone Della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with berry fruit and spice. Quite young. On the palate it's ample, with bright green berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by pleasant smooth sweet tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish that has some dusky sweet plum undertones. Pleasant, and though it will drink now with stews or roasts, will also age nicely for a number of years, and will reward those blessed with patience.
2 stars

Winding Down, Trabucchi
The second day of the Anteprima was dedicated to winery visits. Since a serious snowstorm was forecast, and indeed the morning sky was an eerie white, I decided to limit my visits to Trabucchi, which is in Illasi, a town on the easternmost border of the Valpolicella production zone, overlooking the valley containing the town of Soave. Raffaella and Giuseppe Trabucchi have a beautiful home, with an extremely impressive, very new cellar, and make a number of fine wines, which we tasted in the course of an elegant, traditional Veronese lunch.

Trabucchi Valpolicella Superiore Terre di San Colombano DOC 2005
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. Elegant nose, with deft cherry fruit that has slight jammy accents -- the grapes were lightly dried, and it shows -- and elegant spice, hints of cumin and menthol from the grapes, and very fresh. Beautifully clean. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by the greenish spice typical of Valpolicella, as well as acidity and tannins that have warm sandalwood accents, another thing I associate with Valpolicella. It all flows into a clean slightly bitter greenish berry fruit finish. Beautiful depth and elegance, and very pleasant to drink. We had it with pasta e fagioli, and it was perfect, or you could drink it with meat-based pasta dishes or simple grilled meats.
91-2

Trabucchi Valpolicella Superiore Terre del Cereolo DOC 2004
Here the grapes were dried for 20-25 days, and there is more oak. The wine is deep garnet ruby with almandine rim -- more mature than the San Colombano, and given its greater age this makes sense. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly candied berry fruit supported by delicate spice and cedar. Quite harmonious, though not as bright as the San Colombano, and this is a combination of more wood and greater age, as the grapes are the same. On the palate it's full and rich, with warm berry fruit supported by slightly greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean fresh finish. The oak colors it slightly with respect to the San Colombano, which I found to be more delicate and to display greater finesse. Terre del Cereolo is instead more bulked up and powerful, and I found it to be mid-way between Valpolicella and Amarone in some ways. Which you prefer is a question of stylistic preference.
2 stars

Trabucchi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly jammy berry fruit supported by clean spice, slight greenish vegetal accents typical of Valpolicella, and pleasing spice. Beautiful character. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean bright peppery tannins that flow into a clean bright fairly sweet tannic finish that lasts and lasts. Very nice, and though it is quite young it will drink beautifully with steaks or roasts now, or with mixed boiled meats and sauces of the sort we enjoyed it with. A beautiful Amarone.
92-3

Trabucchi Trabucchi D'Illasi Amarone Riserva DOC 2003
This is made only when the vintage warrants it; there is a 2004 coming, but no 2005. Deep black garnet with black reflections and garnet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and jammy, with deft red berry fruit supported by cedar-laced spice and warmth. It's a bit blockier than the 2004 and this is the vintage. On the palate it's ample, soft, and cedar-laced with moderately rich berry fruit. Not heatstruck, but also not of the quality of the 2004, and flows into a warm dry berry fruit finish.
2 stars

Trabucchi Recioto Della Valpolicella 2005
Inky pyrope with black cherry rim. Rich nose with languid red berry fruit supported by greenish plums, sweetness, hints of oatmeal, spice, smoke, and some cedar. Quite elegant, though the cedar is somewhat distracting. On the palate it's ample, rich, sweet, and very smooth, with shadowy plum fruit supported by moderate acidity -- some of the acidity has been polished out of it -- and by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a languidly voluptuous finish whose texture brings to mind creamy, really good hot chocolate, while the fruit flows into prune. And it lasts, and slasts. Beautiful in a fairly modern key, and a fine, fine Recioto.
88-91

That's It! Thanks as always to the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella for organizing the event, and best wishes to the Consorzio's Director, Emilio Fasoletti, who says he is retiring this year. Valpolicella won't seem quite the same without him at the helm.