Carmignano: The New Releases

The Carmignano appellation has just presented the new releases of Carmignano, a red wine that is similar to Chianti in that it is primarily Sangiovese, the classic Tuscan red varietal, and different because the Appellation requires 10-20% Cabernet, a nod to Cosimo III de'Medici, who planted and experimented uva Franciosa, as it was called, in his Carmignano vineyards in the early 1700s.

Though the Cabernet has had time to become acclimatized and adapt to its Tuscan surroundings, 10-20% is quite enough to have a powerful influence upon the wine, and with respect to other Central Tuscan wines that lack it Carmignano tends to be more vegetal, with notes of hay or green vegetables, in particular bell pepper, on the nose, and earthy Cabernet-derived accents to the fruit, while the tannic structure also reveals Cabernet facets.

In short, Carmignano is unique with respect to the other Central Tuscan appellations, especially now that those in Chianti are turning away from the international varietals that were all the rage 10-15 years ago, and as such it offers a pleasant change of pace. For a considerably more detailed discussion of the appellation, see my introduction to the 2009 presentation.

This year's presentation was held at Capezzana, which is by far the most important estate in the Carmignano appellation. Before the tasting began Vittorio Contini Bonacossi spoke briefly about the 2011 vintage, saying that it began quite wet, with the abundant moisture quite sufficient to see the vines through the two dry months that followed. Things were looking very good, with just the right amount of beautiful grapes, until August 19-20, when a hot air mass settled in, raising temperatures in the vineyards to 43 degrees C (about 110 F); the grapes most exposed to the afternoon sun were burned. Those shaded from the afternoon sun (40-50% of the total) escaped damage, though they are extremely concentrated with high sugar contents. Harvesting will be difficult, but should yield a much smaller than usual volume of rather powerful, concentrated wines. In short, what survived, he thinks, will be good to very good, though, I would venture, rather extreme.

Vittorio said that the heat will result in severe problems with both Barco Reale, Carmignano's lighter easy to drink red wine, and Vin Ruspo, the appellation's rosé, and there will be estates that produce neither.

I began with Carmignano DOCG, and then tasted the Riserva and IGT wines, backtracking thereafter to taste the Vin Ruspo and Barco Reale. The wines are in the order in which I tasted the Carmignano.

The wines, presented September 9 2011

Villa il Poggiolo Villa il Poggiolo Vin Ruspo DOC 2010 Deep salmon with brilliant apricot and electric pink reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with raspberry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some greenish accents with pleasing underlying minerality. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by brambly accents and acidity, and by slight tannins that do have a greenish burr to them. Brash, and will work well as a cookout wine, and also with fried foods. Nice acidity and a wine that is quick on its toes.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy almost cooked cherry plum fruit that gives an impression of considerable ripeness, and a fair amount of alcohol as well, combined with some vegetal accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by brambly vegetal notes and some savory spice. Direct, and I'd have liked a little more acidity to accompany the fruit.
1 star

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with lively berry fruit supported by heather and herbal notes, and some menthol, with slight graphite as well. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity and tannins that have a slight youthful burr and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with some hints of hazelnut. Pleasant, though it is unfinished, with the tannic brashness one often finds in barrel samples, and will work well with simple stews or roasts.

Villa il Poggiolo Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2009 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is unusual, with sour cherry strawberry fruit that is almost candied and has some sandalwood accents, bringing to mind a Moscato di Scanzo. Quite unusual. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with some sweetness as well, and ripe berry fruit that again has some sandalwood spice and brings the Moscato to mind, and flows into a graphite-laced bitter finish. Absolutely atypical of Carmignano, but if you like this sort of spicy cast and the richness sweetness brings it will work well with very flavorful stews.
1 star

Villa Il Poggiolo Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano DOCG 2008 Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by jammy notes, greenish accents bell pepper, menthol, sea salt, and graphite shavings. On the palate it's ample and savory with vegetal-laced berry fruit supported by moderate savory mineral acidity and tannins that burr with a cedary underpinning and flows into a savory cherry finish with some underlying bitterness.
2 stars

Villa il Poggiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is intense, and unusual; it smells of chinotto, which is not quinine as one might expect (though the bitterness is there) but rather a small bitter citrus fruit that grown in Liguria and other parts of Italy, and used to make one of the classic Italian soft drinks -- called Chinotto. Atypical. On the palate it's again odd, tasting of quinine and cedary bitterness; it's not what one expects of a Carmignano.
1 star

Villa il Poggiolo Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 2008
Tawny amber with bright apricot reflections and white in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rancio (a term that describes the nuttiness that comes with exposure to heat and oxidation), oatmeal, sweetness, dried fruit and some walnut skins supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, sweet, and warm with dried apricots supported by lively acidity and glycerin that imparts a certain butteriness, and by walnut skins and green walnut bitterness that grow in intensity as the sweetness fades, and carry into a long warm alcoholic finish with walnut skin bitterness to provide definition. Quite pleasant in a rich sweet key, and though one could enjoy it now it will also age very well for many years. Nice balance and depth
2 stars

A note: This winery's wines are quite uneven, and this is because they are making a determined effort to improve, and the wines reflect this. I rather like the course they are embarking upon, and will be very curious to see how things progress over future vintages in which the new winemaker oversees production from start to finish.

Tenuta Di Capezzana Tenuta di Capezzana Vin Ruspo DOC 2010

Pale salmon with onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly raspberry fruit and hints of licorice root, and also some spice. Nice balance and depth, and quite fresh. On the palate it's bright, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh brambly finish. Quite pleasant, a wine that will work very well with foods at a cookout or during the summer months when things are best served cool, and will also be a nice aperitif. With respect to the other two Vin Ruspos presented this year it shows greater finesse and is a bit less aggressive, making it more something one could drink by the glass.
2 stars

Tenuta di Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2009 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, and ripe, with jammy plum cherry fruit laced with greenish vegetal accents and spice, and also with some savory notes and alcohol. Nice balance in a young lively key. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are rather splintery and flow into a bright sour berry fruit finish. It's lively, and rather aggressive, and will work well with fattier grilled meats or hearty pasta sauces, and also with fried meats and vegetables. Expect it to go quickly if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2010
Barrel sample
Deep cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is young and fresh, with brambly berry fruit supported by heather and vegetal accents, and by slight hints of sweetness that add a cheeky brightness to it. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that are fresh and smooth, with slight hints of cedar, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish that's fairly long. Graceful in a willowy sort of way, and will be elegant as it ages. Very nice for a barrel sample, and will I expect be worth seeking out.

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby, close to poured ink in its darkness. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by graphite shavings and some vegetal accents, with cool alcohol that brings to mind dappled shade, and some spice as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter minerality more than fruit carrying it, supported by tannins that have a graphite overlay and flow into a rather bitter tannic finish. It's pleasant though not in a really fruit driven key -- more underbrush and vegetal notes -- and if you like this style will work quite well with succulent meats, off the grill or form the oven. If you prefer smoother, fruitier wines it won't work for you.
2 stars

Tenuta Capezzana Villa di Trefiano Carmignano DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some gum Arabic and slight graphite. Not much fruit, though with more swishing savory notes reminiscent of bouillon emerge; it feels very behind. On the palate it's ample and rather bitter, with more savor than fruit, and with dry savory tannins that flow into a bitter savory tannic finish. It's very behind, and in what is sometimes called a "stupid phase," in which it pulls into itself. It needs time to work through it and a score at present will probably not reflect the future.

Tenuta Capezzana Ghiaie della Furba IGT Toscana 2007 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly vegetal, with some cedar as well and hints of vanilla. It's coming together, but there isn't as much fruit as I'd have hoped. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by some savory notes and sour berry fruit acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth and flow into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, though it needs a year or two at least.
2 stars

Capezzana Sessanta IGT Toscana 2007

This is a very special wine, a Merlot in Purezza prepared to celebrate Count Ugo and Lisa Contini Bonacossi's 60th wedding anniversary. Impenetrable pyrope with a rich nose laced with forest berry fruit and some graphite, alcohol, and underlying pencil shavings. Rich and nice balance. On the palate it's also rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and clean sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long graphite laced finish with an alcoholic underpinning due in part to the warmth of the day I tasted it. Pleasant, deft, and will work very well with grilled meats or light roasts, and also has good aging potential. In short, a wine for collectors -- only 5,000 bottles were made, and a wine that should you come across you should snap up.
90-91

Fattoria Ambra

Fattoria Ambra Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2010 Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is brambly, with lively berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and some graphite shaving bitterness that balance nicely. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by dusky graphite shaving bitterness and by tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a clean rather green sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a light aggressive key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also work nicely with fried meats and vegetables. Classic quaffing wine.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Santa Cristina in Pilli Carmignano DOCG 2009
Deep cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is brooding, with berry fruit supported by hints of wet paper and bramble; it's not as clean as I might have liked. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly dry and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's a wine that will work well with fattier meats that need something to clear the palate between bites. Grilled sausages, for example.
1 star

Fattoria Ambra Vigne Alte Montalbiolo Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shavings and some spice mingled with savory notes and slight wet earth; there's not much fruit and it revolves more around minerality than fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with considerable minerality and tertiary flavors including wet earth and pepper, and also some cedar, though it plays a secondary role, and flows into a fairly long bitter finish. If you like the style it will work well with hearty roasts or stews, for example wild boar, but if you prefer fruitier wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Elzana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a rather rustic key, with balsamic accents mingled with sea salt and some animal notes, and holding it together some bell pepper vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by bell pepper vegetal accents and savory notes, and also tannins that have a splintery burr to them, and flow into a clean savory finish. Pleasant in a bright savory key, and if you like the style, which is fairly traditional, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Fattoria Ambra Vinsanto di Carmignano DOC 2004 Dusky amber with white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though not too complex, with dried apricot and some walnut skin mingled with alcohol; it gives an impression of being less sweet than some vinsanti. An impression belied on the palate; it's sweet, with fairly rich dried apricot fruit supported by brown sugar sweetness and some apricot acidity that carry together for a considerable distance, gradually fading into sweetish warmth. It's not as complex as some, and lacks the walnut skins one often finds, but does have a pleasing warmth and though I would have liked greater complexity, especially on the nose, does have something to say.
1 star


Fattoria di Bacchereto

Fattoria di Bacchereto Terre a Mano Carmignano DOCG 2009 Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively cherry and forest berry fruit, in particular black currant fruit, and some brambles with some hints of gum Arabic. Quite young. On the palate it's smooth, with moderately intense dusky berry fruit supported by acidity and hints of scalded milk, and by tannins that are smooth and have a slight cedary overlay that almost brings butterscotch to mind, and flows into a dusky finish. It's fairly aggressive, and will work well with succulent meats, red especially, off the grill or from the oven.
1 star

Fattoria di Bacchereto Terre a Mano Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with India ink and brambly berry fruit largely overshadowed by pencil shavings and graphite bitterness, and some gum Arabic as well. I'd have liked richer fruit. On the palate it's fairly light, with decidedly brambly fruit supported by tannins that have savory accents and hints of hazelnut, and flow into a rather brambly finish. It's a scrappy wine, and if you like the style you will enjoy it with grilled meats and similar. I'd have liked a little more richness and roundness to the fruit.
1 star

Podere Allocco

Podere Allocco Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2009 Lively black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with vegetal laced berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and spice, also by some sweetish greenish accents that bring yellow peaches to mind, and as it opens the peaches become stronger. On the palate it's medium bodied and soft, with fairly rich dusky cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have some peppery vegetal accents, though less than many, and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish with vegetal overly and slight pepperiness. Pleasant in a softer, less aggressive key than many, and if you like this better than the qualities of the more aggressive wines, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere Allocco Carmignano DOCG 2009
Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with animal hair and some horse lather mingled with sour berry fruit and some menthol as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and tannins that are smooth and fairly dry, flowing into a sour brambly finish. It's old style, and if you like this sort of traditional wine you will enjoy it and find it worth seeking out. If you prefer wines with richer riper fruit and rounder tannins it will work less well for you.
2 stars

Podere il Sassolo

Podere Il Sassolo Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2010 Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is tart, with sour cherry fruit supported by some orange acidity and hints of dried orange peel; there are also greenish accents and some alcohol. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm rather splintery burr and flow into a clean slightly splintery finish with some greenish sour cherry accents. Pleasant, and very much a food wine that will work well with pasta dishes, in particular meat sauces light meats, and fried foods. If you like the style, which is fairly aggressive, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere il Sassolo Carmignano DOCG 2009 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and quite a bit of cedar with some brambly greenish accents thrown in. It's coming together, but I'd have liked more fruit. On the palate it's ample and well polished, making for a wine that's quite smooth, and flows into a fairly savory finish What's missing is the fruit, which seems to be hiding under the tannins and lets savory notes and tannins carry the show.
1 star

Piaggia Piaggia Il Sasso Carmignano DOCG 2009 Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim; it's darker than most. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and some green leather mingled with vegetal accents and moderately intense brambly acidity. The overall effect is dark and rather brooding. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense tannins and moderate rather dusky fruit that is supported by some brambly, savory acidity, and flows into a rather bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit, though the savory accents are pleasant and will work well with succulent meats.
2 stars

Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2010 Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections, The bouquet is rich, giving an impression of smooth polish, with berry fruit supported by greenish bell pepper accents and some menthol, with a fair amount of alcohol as well. Rather international in feel. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with fairly rich pepper-laced berry fruit supported by graphite bitterness and tannins that are smooth and rather savory, and flow into a clean bitter finish. It shows considerable polish and will become graceful with time; if you like the style, which is more international, you will enjoy it considerably. To be honest, it didn't seem a barrel sample, but we asked and were assured it was.

Piaggia Piaggia Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008

Deep pyrope with cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with very ripe cherry plum fruit supported by jammy accents and pleasant spice. Quite international in feel. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean bright fruit laced finish. It's elegant in an international key, and will drink well with roasts or stews, including meats that are fairly dry, pot roasts, for example. Much more fruit driven than many, and thus in a different key. If you are traditionally minded it won't work for you, but if you like smooth rich fruit driven wines you will like it.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete

Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2010 Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and quite bitter, with a rush of graphite shavings accompanied by some bell pepper and a fair amount of alcohol. The cabernet emerges strongly. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish vegetal and bell pepper accents supported by graphite shaving bitterness and by tannins that have greenish vegetal notes and flow into a clean vegetal finish with underlying graphite bitterness. If you like the style, which is towards vegetal cabernet, you will enjoy it considerably and it will work well with simple foods.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2009
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with smoky berry fruit supported by some savory greenish accents and moderate alcohol. On the palate it's light and fairly light, with lively peppery vegetal accents supported by spice and spur cherry fruit that flow into a clean rather bright vegetal finish. Direct, and fairly aggressive, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, also fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2009 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit laced with heather and some graphite and balsamic accents; there's also a dusky sourness to it. On the palate it's smooth, and again rather dusky, there's not much fruit, but rather savory cedary bitterness, supported by savory notes and tannins that are rather cedary, and flow into a savory finish. It brings to mind those prune jams that are cooked down considerably and have aged for a couple of years before they're opened.
1 star

Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is brambly, with dusky cedar and some greenish accents, and a fair amount of alcohol too, but not that much fruit. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and tannins that have considerable graphite bitterness to them, and flow into a rather bitter finish that's fairly long. It's quite young, but does display a pleasing grace, though you have to like the style, which is not fruit forward. If you do like the style you will need -- not want -- a second bottle, because it goes down quite easily.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2010 Barrel sample
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and bell pepper supported by some sea salt; with swishing the pepper increases and gains grilled overtones. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bell pepper laced fruit supported by savory notes and tannins that are dry and spicy, and flow into a dry spicy finish with peppery accents. The cabernet is very apparent, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews. I found it a bit extreme, though in a positive way.

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008 Fairly deep black cherry with some hints of almandine. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some dusky aromas of wet earth and vegetal accents -- it's clearly at the outset of its development and has a ways to go. On the palate it's savory, with fairly bright sour berry fruit supported by cedar laced savory accents and warmth, and flows into a fairly long savory finish. It's traditional in feel, and needs time, but if you like the style it may well prove rewarding with time.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Farnete Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007 Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is savory, with some cedar and quite a bit of sea salt mingled with warmth. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by savory notes and spice, and flowing into a clean bright savory finish. Pleasant in a traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Tenuta le Farnete Rosso Passito IGT Toscana 2010 This is an Aleatico passito, and is deep pyrope with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is rich and sweet, with the candied fruit and vegetal accents typical of Aleatico mingled with some menthol and pleasant acidity that has a sour lemon cast to it. Nice balance and complexity. On the palate it's full and sweet, with bright chewy red berry fruit supported by warmth and roundness due to both fruit and sweetness, while there is pleasant ripe raspberry cherry acidity to keep it from being cloying, and it flows into a clean bright rather tart berry fruit finish supported by lasting sweetness. A nice Aleatico that will be quite pleasant with friends either around a fire in the winter moths (or with cheese), or on a patio in summer as the heat fades and the stars come out.
2 stars

Pratesi Pratesi Locorosso Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2010 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by alcohol and some berry fruit acidity, with some mentholated spice as well. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright lively sour berry fruit supported by lively sour cherry acidity and some vegetal accents, and also by tannins that have a warm vegetal overlay and flow into a clean rather splintery berry fruit finish. A good rather brash, direct food wine that will work well with simple grilled or fried meats.
1 star

Pratesi Locorosso Carmignano DOCG 2009
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. Looks young. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by rustic stable straw notes supported by hints of gum Arabic and -- something I hadn't encountered in a very long time -- modeling glue. On the palate it's moderately intense and quite savory, with slight sour cherry fruit that allows the tannins and the savory notes to carry the show. I would have liked more fruit than I found.
1 star

Pratesi Vigna di Carmio Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep cherry ruby; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with some berry fruit supported by vegetal accents, cedar laced spice, and some savory notes, with something added that is rather sunny. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by savory notes and some spice, and flowing into a clean savory finish. I would have expected a little more richness from a Riserva.
1 star

Pratesi Carmione IGT Toscana 2008 Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some savory berry fruit laced with vegetal accents and spice. Deft, but needs time. On the palate it's less bright than I had hoped, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by strong savory tannins that flow into a decidedly savory finish. Tannins and savory notes overshadow the fruit, and they are not something that will fade with time.
1 star


Castelvecchio Castelvecchio Vin Ruspo DOC 2010 Rosy salmon with brilliant reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is fresh, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by some brambles, though not as much as in sample 1, and some pleasant hay and herbal accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and by some tannins that are slight and have a slight burr to them, and flow into a bright sour cherry finish with acidity and a very slight tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with cold cuts, and also be a nice bet at a picnic or cookout.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2009

Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice, and also some brambly notes and spice. On the palate it's fairly light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by brambly tannins and lively sour cherry acidity that flow into a clean greenish sour berry fruit finish. Pleasant in a rather brash aggressive key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or other rich foods, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2009 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with vinous brambly accents supported by sour berry fruit and some spice. Nice depth and quite young. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth tannins that have a slight savory cedar laced burr, and flow into a clean rather dry finish. It's pleasant in a smooth fairly well polished key, and though it needs another year or two to get its bearings will be pleasant in a fairly ethereal key.
2 stars

Castelvecchio Carmignano DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim. The nose is moderately intense, opening to reveal menthol-laced berry fruit with some vegetal accents. Pleasant though not too intense. On the palate it's ample, with soft sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and tannins that have a graphite laced bitter cedar overlay and are also fairly dry, and flow into a dry finish. I had expected more from the palate, which is weaker and less directional than I would have expected from the nose.
1 star


Colline San Biagio

Colline San Biagio Sancti Blasii Carmignano DOCG 2008 Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and spice mingled with hints of camphor and balsam; the effect is rather exotic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by brambly berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather dry and cedar laced, and flow into a warm dry tannic finish. It's not a wine to drink by the glass far from the table, but will drink well with more succulent foods that beg something to clear the palate between bites, and if you like the style, which is fairly traditional, you will enjoy it.
2 stars


La Borriana

Tenuta La Borriana Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC 2008 Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with vegetal accents and some spice mingled with ripe berry fruit and some berry fruit acidity; with respect to some of the other Barco Reale wines it is less brambly. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slight burr to them and flow into a long warm sour berry fruit finish. It's less aggressive than many, with fruit that is more fruit and less vegetal; if you like the style it will drink nicely with simple meats and vegetables, and is pleasingly direct in a fairly aggressive key.
1 star

Tenuta La La Borriana Carmignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with leather and some horse lather, and also some vegetal accents. With spice and slight hints of gum Arabic. On the palate it's fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by savory notes that flow into a rather savory berry fruit finish with dry tannic underpinning. I found it a touch dry, though this dryness will allow it to work well with succulent meats.
2 stars

Tenuta La Borriana Nero di Nicchio IGT Toscana 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some underbrush and cherry fruit supported by some jammy accents and spice, and by slight cedar as well. On the palate it's ample, with elegant forest berry fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich plum finish with some prune acidity. Elegant in an international key, and will drink nicely with roasts or stews. It's also quite young, and will do interesting things with time.
2 stars

Tenuta di Bagnolo

Marchesi Pancrazi Pinot Nero Villa di Bagnolo IGT Toscana 2009 Almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by slight acidity and lacquer, and also some savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by smooth savory tannins that flow into a fairly long bright savory finish. Elegant and graceful, displaying considerable finesse, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or stews, and also has the capacity to age well for 5-8 years at least.
2 stars

Tenuta Poggio Rosso: Wines from Populonia

Tenuta Poggio Rosso is about as close to being an Island Estate as a continental estate can be: It's located on the thinnest part of the Promontorio di Piombino (south of Bolgheri, on the Tuscan coast), at an elevation of 35 meters, 700 meters from the Golfo di Baratti (to the north) and 3 km from the Golfo di Follonica (to the south), and this means that it is well aerated, and protected from the fierceness of the summer heat, while temperatures do fall off during the nights.

The perfect place for a winery, and there were vineyards on the property at one time. However, the former owner died in the early 1990s, and his second wife's sons, who inherited the land, lived in Switzerland. They had no interest in becoming winemakers, and instead looked over EEU agricultural law, discovering that there were economic incentives for those interested in restoring coastal Mediterranean scrub forests. So they ripped out the vineyards and planted trees.

In orderly rows that could be thinned, recalls Diego Monnelli, whose father and uncle bought the 20-hectare property in 2002, adding that they were able to thin the groves, and then move what they thinned (there are laws against simply chopping down trees) to make break winds for the vineyards they planted -- about 6 hectares, a bit more than 4 of reds, and the remainder whites, and for about 600 olive trees.

Given the youth of the vineyards, which just entered into production a couple of years ago, one cannot expect great wines, but I was pleasantly surprised by the four wines that Diego and his cousin Chiara, who run the estate (the family's primary business is the production of equipment to monitor industrial processes) presented at Il Cibreo, in Florence.

Before we get to the wines, a word about the palm tree that figures on their labels: It's based on the mark of an Etruscan amphora maker whose kilns were nearby, and whose amphorae have been found as far away as Egypt. And, while we're at it, the names of the wines: They are all Etruscan, and are another reference to the area's long and rich history.

We began with a 70/30 Vermentino-Viogner blend; they have 3/4 hectare of Vermentino, which is somewhat more productive -- 50 quintals/hectare -- and a hectare of Viogner that yields 35 q/ha. The wine is in part barrel fermented and in part tank fermented, and spent 9 months on the lees, with regular battonage; it was bottled at the end of the summer. This is the second vintage.

Phylika Toscana IGT Bianco 2009
Brassy yellow, with a fairly rich bouquet with some apricot and bitter almonds, slight honey, slight greenish apricot skins, licorice root, and nice underlying minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with pleasant apricot fruit supported by minerality, spice and some gunflint bitterness and savory notes that flow into a clean savory finish with some vegetal apricot accents. Pleasant, and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif or with delicately flavored fish, and evolves beautifully in the glass too, gaining both fruit and interesting savory notes Impressive, and it will be interesting to taste future vintages from more mature vineyards.
2 stars

We then tasted an unlabeled experiment, a 2009 Viogner that they decided to bottle in purezza because they had a little extra. A thousand bottles, tank fermented and then with nine months of battonage. Brassy gold with tawny reflections. The bouquet is quite mineral, with some brambly accents mingled with heather and sea salt. On the palate it's pleasantly languid, and quite mineral, with mineral acidity that flows into a clean slightly sour mineral finish. Nice depth and promises very well for the future; it's a touch coarser and distinctly more mineral than the Phylika, but very much alive and has great potential. It also improved markedly in the glass during the course of the meal, revealing ripe apricot fruit that balances the minerality. We suggested that they come up with a label for it and put it on the market.

We then shifter to reds; they have Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot (which they're not happy with and will remove) and some Sangiovese. Ultimately, they want to produce varietal wines, but haven't gotten there yet.

Tenuta Poggio Rosso Tages Rosso Toscano IGT 2006
This is a Sangiovese Merlot blend, and this is the second vintage (there was no 05). It's impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim, and has a fairly rich, tart bouquet with sour cherry fruit supported by slight greenish accents and some cassis, though what really stands out is the brambly character of the Sangiovese. It's pleasant and reveals fairly rich complexity, though it is evident that the vineyards are young. On the palate the Merlot is more apparent; it's fairly full with moderate dusky berry fruit supported by very smooth tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a clean rather bitter tannic finish. It's pleasant but the vineyard needs time; the wine has nice potential but the fruit isn't as rich nor as full as it will be in a few year's time. In short, something to keep an eye on for future vintages.
2 stars

Tenuta Poggio Rosso Velthune Rosso Toscano IGT 2006
This is a Cabernet Sauvignon. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with graphite shavings and forest berry fruit mingled with bitter accents and slight grassy herbal notes, while there are also alcohol and pencil shavings. Pleasant and fairly rich, though the youth of the vineyards is shown by a certain lack of complexity. On the palate it's medium bodied with pleasant minerality and considerable graphite shaving bitterness, supported by minerality and smooth rather bitter tannins that flow into a clean bitter tannic finish with leafy underbrush accents. Quite nice, though future vintages will be better.
2 stars

Diego said that for them 2006 was long and hot, and yielded awkward wines; he has great hopes for the 07 vintage, which is more agile and displays greater finesse.

As I said, Tenuta Poggio Rosso is located on the neck of the Promontorio di Piombino. It's a very pretty area, and if you are in Tuscany you could either make a day trip of it, combining a winery visit with a visit to Populonia or the Parco Archeominerario di San Silvestro (or both), or if it's hot, a swim in the Golfo di Baratti. You will also pass by them if you are heading to Piombino to go to the Island of Elba, which is also well worth a journey.

Tenuta Belvedere and Fattoria Le Sorgenti: Interesting and Unusual Tuscan Wines

Tenuta Belvedere is a historic Tuscan estate located in the hills of Rosano overlooking the left (southern) bank of the Arno River, upstream from Florence in what would be the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Appellation. They have chosen, however, to bottle their red wine as and IGT because of limitations imposed by the rules governing the Appellation (among other things bottle size; they want, and the DOCG doesn't foresee, half-liter bottles).

Though the decision to bottle is recent -- these are their first vintages -- they have always had vineyards; at present they have slightly under 2 hectares in production (1.5 ha red grapes, and 0.2 ha white grapes), all dating to 1970, and trained in the traditional archetto style. They are also retraining an additional 2 hectares of red vines to the Alberello style. Cultivation is strictly organic, and harvesting is manual, while the fermentation merits a few words.

Langravio, their Sangiovese, is fermented in cement without temperature control (a practice also followed by Gianfranco Soldera, who says temperature spikes give nuances one cannot otherwise get), and then aged in tonneaux. Noesis, their white, is instead fermented in orce, terracotta urns, and also aged in them for 8 months. The medium does have an impact; I noted an intriguing minerality of a kind I hadn't encountered before in it and now I know why. Neither wine is filtered.

Bottom line, this is a small estate, and just starting out, but they are doing interesting things and it will be very interesting to follow them as they gain experience and the new vineyard, planted to the Alberello style, enters into production and matures.

Tenuta Belvedere Noesis Toscana IGT 2009
Lot 10-10
This is a blend of the traditional Tuscan white varietals, Trebbiano, Malvasia and San Colombano. It's a fairly charged straw yellow with brilliant reflections and hints of gold in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with heather from a Tuscan field and some sage, with fairly intense savory accents as well and some cut Granny Smith apple. Quite powerful, in a muscular sort of way. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense lemony fruit supported by brisk mineral lemon acidity and slight greenish tannins that flows into a long bright citric finish that lasts, and lasts, and lasts, gaining bitter savory accents as the acidity fades. Extremely powerful, but it does display a certain grace as well. It's not a wine I would serve as an aperitif, because it will overpower most antipasti, but it will work well with what follows, especially rich dishes; one could serve it with rich fish or vegetable-based pasta dishes or risotti, but where it will really shine is with flavorful fattier grilled fish, along the lines of salmon, or with fried foods, both fish and meat, and of course fried vegetables. It's particular; if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. But if you prefer softer, more graceful whites, you may find it over the top. Until you pair it with fried chicken and fried vegetables…
2 stars

Tenuta Belvedere Langravio IGT Toscana 2007
Lot 01-09
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim fading to pink. Imposing. The bouquet is powerful, with brooding cherry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and nutmeg spice, while there are also mentholated accents, and as it opens saddle leather and cut tobacco. Nice balance and considerable power. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly bitter acidity and by tannins that lay a smooth dusty trail across the tongue and flow into a clean bitter dusty finish. It's still quite young and needs time to finish coming together -- I would give it a year at least, and perhaps two. In terms of style, it is powerful, with considerable extraction and deft oak that has added quite a bit of polish to it while tempering the acidity as well; if you prefer lighter zestier expressions of Sangiovese you may not like it as much, but it is deft, like a well coordinated muscular athlete, and I much appreciated the fact that while the fruit is concentrated, it's not overripe. If you like the style, it will work very well with a porterhouse steak, cooked rare.
2 stars

For more information on the Tenuta Belvedere check their website, http://www.tenutabelvedere.it

Fattoria Le Sorgenti

The Fattoria Le Sorgenti is located upstream of Florence, on the Arno's left (southern) bank, and their vineyards are situated such that they are influenced by the river, which helps to mitigate extreme summer temperatures, while also helping to guarantee good day-night temperature excursions. Though they also produce Chianti Colli Fiorentini, they chose to send me their IGT wines, which also include French varietals; I found them quite impressive, and eminently approachable. They are wines of the sort one puts out at the table, and soon has to replace because they go well with foods, and one's guests have all emptied their glasses and are asking for more. This is, I think, a Good Thing.

They have 16 hectares of vineyards, at altitudes ranging from 100 (Trebbiano and Chardonnay) though 450 (Sangiovese and Merlot) meters above sea level. Cultivation is strictly organic.

And this takes care (in a cursory manner) of the land; what of the fattoria? It began as a farm in the 1300s, and was transformed into a villa in 1585 by Alessandro D'Agostino Gerbi; it subsequently belonged to the Leopardi family, and in 1885 was renamed Fattoria Le Sorgenti because of three springs on the property. The Ferrari Ricci family bought it in 1959, and now Gabriele and Elisabetta Ferrari manage the estate, while their son Filippo sees to the winemaking. Quite well:

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Sghiràs Toscana Bianco IGT 2006
Lot 1 08
This is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and is brassy gold with golden reflections and white nail. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with a great rush of savory butterscotch mingled with prominent gooseberry and some tropical fruit, and supported by savory accents and some savory mineral acidity. Nice balance in a very charged international key. On the palate it's ample, elegant, and more languid than I expected, with fairly rich minerality supported by moderate mineral acidity and by butterscotch laced bitterness that flows into a clean bitter mineral finish that's quite long. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with rich antipasti, or with flavorful, but not oily grilled fish, for example a sea bream. It will also be nice with soft, not too pungent cheeses such as Taleggio or Camembert, and dishes that include them as an ingredient, and I would be tempted to serve it with vegetable tarts, sformati, and similar, and igf you want to look further afield, sushi. Quite nice, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it; the oak is apparent but not predominant.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Sghiràs Toscana Bianco IGT 2007
Lot 2 09
Brassy gold paling to white nail. The bouquet is quite intense, and much fresher than that of the 06, with floral accents and more intense tropical fruit than the 06 -- papaya and hints of mango -- that balance gooseberry, which here finds itself in a duet rather than a starring role, while there are savory cedar notes from wood and some greenish butterscotch too. Zesty, in a fairly rich international key. On the palate it's ample and languid, with clean minerality that has slight hints of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and is supported by mineral acidity and clean butterscotch bitterness that flows into a moderately long finish. It's more delicate than the 2006, and will consequently work better with more delicate antipasti or with slightly lighter main courses; I would be tempted to serve it with steamed or boiled fish,
2 stars

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Gaiaccia Toscana IGT 2006
Lot 2 09
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Alicante, a varietal closely related to Grenache that contributes to color and complexity. The wine is deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Its bouquet is intense and fresh, with cherry fruit supportred by India ink -- almost quinine bitterness with graphite shavings as well, and as it opens spicy notes and cassis. Pleasant in a clean fruit driven key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cassis fruit supported by spice and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean fresh cassis finish that gains depth and direction from graphite shaving bitterness, and reveal some leafy underbrush as the fruit fades. It's pleasant and quite approachable, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Though I might drink it now to enjoy its freshness. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and if you like wines of the international style it's worth seeking out.
88-90

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Gaiaccia Toscana IGT 2007
Lot 1 09
Deep pigeon blood ruby with purple-violet rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and cassis fruit supported by wet leather and spice, and by pleasant freshly ground back pepper. Zesty in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by dusky cedar laced tannins and moderate underbrush with some wet leather graphite bitterness that flows into a clean fresh cassis finish with underlying bitterness. It's not quite as rich as the 2006, and this is vintage variation; by comparison it's a bit more nervous and a bit more bramly, and while this will make it less pleasant to drink by the glass, the brambly accents of the tannins will work quite well with quickly grilled meats or light stews, and also be nice with more powerfully flavored meats, for example lamb chops.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Scirus Toscana Rosso IGT 2005
Lot 2 07
This is a Taglio Bordolese, a Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot blend, and is almost impenetrable pyrope deep black reflections and cherry in the rim. The bouquet is powerful and dusky, with jammy berry fruit, cassis and cherry, supported bys savory underbrush and intriguing spice, which has hints of well salted grilled pepper to it, and also by hints of gum Arabic and cedar. Nice balance and considerable depth in an international key. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry cassis fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate more mineral than fruit cidity, while the tannins are smooth and have a slight cedar backing, and flow into a clean fresh finish with bitter graphite shaving undertones. It's quite pleasant and quite approachable, and a fine expression of the 2005 vintage, which was cooler; the fruit isn't as intense as it might be in a better vintage, but they accepted this and worked with it rather than trying to bulk up the wine by other means (e.g. concentrators or new oak), and the result is rather graceful. A fine wine to open with a steak or a crown roast, which will bring much happiness to a special meal, and worth seeking out if you like wines of the more international style.
88-90

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Scirus Toscana Rosso IGT 2006
Lot 2 08
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with cedar and grilled belle pepper mingled with cherry fruit and some vinous warmth, also dusky brooding aspects. It's pleasant but still coming together, and will profit from another year of bottle age at this stage. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry cassis fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and dusky dried leafy underbrush, and by deft tobacco laced mineral acidity, while the tannins are already smooth and silky, and flow into a clean rich cherry finish with slightly bitter tannic underpinning. Impressive, and very pleasant to drink; one could drink it already but would be mistaken to do so because when the nose catches up with the palate it will be fine indeed, in a rich fruit driven but not opulent nor overripe key, and will also age nicely for 5-8 years at least. It will be very nice with grilled meats or hearty roasts, and will also work well with game, for example stewed wild boar. Worth seeking out., but do give it the time it needs.
90-91

For more information on the Fattoria Le Sorgenti, which also offers beautiful accomodations just a short distance from Florence, see their site, at http://www.fattoria-lesorgenti.com.

Campriano: This Year's Wines from Ranuccio Neri

I have long liked Ranuccio Neri's wines, and was therefore rather distressed when he told me a few years ago that he was no longer making a white -- the people overseeing the production of Bianco Val D'Arbia, his appellation, had decided it required "sprucing up," and decreed that Chardonnay be added to it. Since he didn't have any and had no intention of planting any, he wasn't going to make it any more.

So this year I was delighted to discover that he has changed his mind, and is once again making his white. As he always has, from Trebbiano Toscano, and since the Bianco Val D'Arbia appellation still requires Chardonnay he doesn't have, he is labeling it as an IGT. I began with it:

Campriano Bianco IGT Toscana 2007
Lot 6008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. Pleasant bouquet with floral accents and heather mingled with white berry fruit and some spice form the grapes. Quite fresh and gives a good idea of what Trebbiano is capable of when well grown. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with clean mineral laced citric fruit that flows into a clean citric finish with underlying minerality, and though the term minerality is often overused, it's apt here. A very pleasant wine, which will drink well as an aperitif or with hearty vegetable or legume based soups, and also with simple meat or fish dishes, or with a slice of Tuscan pecorino cheese. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Campriano Rosato Toscana IGT 2007
Lot 6008
This is a blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo Nero, and is pale salmon pink with brilliant highlights. The bouquet is bright, with heather and red berry fruit supported by clean raspberry acidity and some crushed sage herbal notes. Quite inviting. On the palate it's deft, with bright slightly greenish red berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and smooth light tannins that flow into a warm tart finish. It's a bit of a lark, one of those wines that will finish before you expect it to. Ideal for a cookout or picnic, or indoors too, for example with quickly grilled meats or even pizza.
2 stars

Campriano Chianti Colli Senesi 2006
Lot 16406
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. Fresh bouquet with lively red berry fruit supported by clean slightly leafy underbrush. Deft, inviting, and pleasant in a traditional key, displaying considerable finesse. On the palate it's clean, with slightly brambly red berry fruit supported by warmth and brambly tannins with some vegetal accents that flow into a clean bright finish. It's a bit young -- a year would add grace -- but will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and I'd be tempted to serve it with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables too. It's one of those wines you will set out, turn your back, and find empty when you turn around again.
88-90

Campriano Vinsanto del Chianti 2001
Tawny amber; the color is dark because Ranuccio also slipped some Caniolo into it. Fairly rich bouquet with dark brown sugar laced with walnut skins, dried fruit, and some walnut butter acidity. Inviting. On the palate it's full, and quite sweet, with elegant brown sugar sweetness supported by warmth and clean apricot acidity that flows into a long warm finish with brown sugar and dried apricot overtones. Quite nice, and if you're a fan of sweet wines (and I am9 you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Want to know more about Campriano? Check out Ranuccio's Site