Bersi Serlini's Wines: A Gift from Lake Iseo

Wine making regions tend to be pretty, and Franciacorta is prettier than most; it's at the mouth of Lago D'Iseo, an alpine finger lake at the foot of the Val Camonica that would likely drain away into the Pianura Padana were it not for several imposing crescent-shaped end moraines whose height and breadth give a good idea of just how large the ancient Alpine glaciers were.

Within this panorama the Bersi Serlini family, which began making wines in 1886, has been quite fortunate. They are located in the Commune of Provaglio d'Iseo, a short distance from the Monastery of San Pietro in Lamosa (the land once belonged to the monks, who hosted travelers where the winery now stands). They have 34 hectares of vineyards that extend down to the lakefront, and while one might wonder at having vineyards along a shore line the effects are quite beneficial; the vineyards are laid out with rows perpendicular to the shore, and during the summer receive the cool nighttime breezes flowing down the Val Camonica, which eliminate the moisture that could cause mold or rot; Maddalena Bersi Serlini notes that because of these breezes they can limit treatments to just copper and sulfur in about half their vineyards.

The harvest in Franciacorta is timed differently than in most other appellations because good acidity levels are of paramount importance for making good sparkling wines. Since acidity decreases with increasing ripeness Franciacorta producers harvest at the beginning of August, and Maddalena says she is always one of the first, as a result her neighbors call her Lumicino, or signal light -- when they see her pickers in the vineyards they know it's time to get ready.

Once the grapes are picked they are soft-pressed and the resultant must descends by gravity feed into the tank hall, where the cellar masters keep it in steel holding tanks briefly, while cooling it, and then transfer it to fermentation tanks. Fermentation is by vineyard; since they are by now quite familiar with their vineyards they have tanks of the proper size for each vineyard. Almost all of their wine ferments in steel, though they do barrel ferment small amounts of wine for their top wines -- about 5% for the two Franciacorta Riserva wines, using year-old barrels purchased from a winemaker who ferments his white in new oak.

The varietal makeup in the vineyards is, as one might expect given Franciacorta, largely Chardonnay, though they do have a little Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero, in hillside vineyards. It is all fermented in white, and this brings up an important point. With the exception of a little red wine they make for local consumption, everything they make is white, and it all sparkles. "I decided, since we're in Franciacorta, that we should concentrate on Franciacorta," Maddalena says, adding that when she made the decision some of the sales reps, who were used to having Bersi Serlini their still wines too, objected.

To be honest, I think she made the correct decision, and expect that they have come around.

The wines, tasted September 18 2011

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta DOCG Brut

LOT 0111b
This is Non Vintage, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco that ages on lees for 21 months, and the vineyards are 15-20 years old. Maddalena says it's their traditional wine, first produced in 1970. Pale greenish straw with fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is pleasant, with gunflint and heather supported by some sea salt and wet bread crumbs; pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory citric fruit supported by sparkle and some vegetal notes, and also the sour yeastiness of the lees; nice balance and quite approachable, and will drink quite well with foods, from elegant risotti through fish based pasta sauces, and also fish in general, including lake fish. It is eminently approachable, ripe but not too ripe, with acidity that keeps it on its toes. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta DOCG Brut

Lot 0411B
This is a distinct from the Basic Brut, with a different label, and Maddalena calls it Dedicato, or Dedicated, in that it is a wine bottled for a special event or occasion, in this case Franciacorta's 50th anniversary. They decided to mark the even with a special edition of their Brut -- 100% Chardonnay that spends more time on the lees -- as it is their best selling wine, with a label that reflects their older labels, which were all Liberty. Production is 50,000 bottles, and they view it as an important success, and a reflection of the fact that they believed in and have concentrated exclusively on Franciacorta. The wine is delicate straw yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with rich savory gunflint supported by some vegetal accents and clean fresh bread crumbs; and brings to mind hammer-struck granite. On the palate it's full, rich, and creamy, with deft mineral laced sour lemon fruit supported by creamy sparkle and fairly pronounced underlying bitterness that carries at length into the finish, Quite elegant, and is a wine that will work well with foods, though to be quite honest I would rather sip it as an aperitif, or with friends while talking far from the table, lest the food distract.
90

Bersi Serlini Brut Cuvee N°4 2006

Lot 1210 CV
This is from their four oldest vineyards, all Chardonnay, and a small percentage is fermented in wood. Rest in steel. They consider it to be their most representative wine, and make it in all formats. Since it is a vintage wine it rests longer on lees. Pale straw yellow with greenish reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is deft, with considerable gunflint laced minerality supported by slight hints of citrus and breadcrumbs with slight vanilla accents as well; quite elegant. On the palate it's full and rich, with clean soft sour lemon fruit supported by sparkle and gunflint laced bitterness with an underpinning of butterscotch and some wet bread crumb yeasty accents, which flow into a clean savory finish with lasting gunflint bitterness. Pleasant, and quite welcoming, displaying pleasing deftness and grace; it's a wine that will work with foods, though like the Dedicated Brut it's perhaps better suited to being sipped with friends far from the table. It's the sort of wine one can hold a conversation with.
90-92

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Satèn

Lot 0210 S; it's Non Vintage.
Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with fine steady perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with herbal notes and gunflint mingled with some sea salt and heather. Quite welcoming. On the palate it's ample, approachable, and soft, with moderately intense savory sour lemon fruit supported by sparkle that's not as creamy as the Cuvee 4° though one really cannot expect that, it has a little more backbone and the vegetal accents emerge a little more strongly, making it better suited to accompanying foods; it will be quite versatile at table and go very fast. Easy to drink (though not simple; if you want there is much to think about) and expect people to want more.
88-90

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Extra Brut Riserva 2003

Lot 0611EB
They started making this in 1971, when the only thing one could call it was Extra Brut, and they have kept the name rather than adopt Pas Dosé or Dosage Zero -- they consider it to be their heart & soul, because they don't think Franciacorta requires liqueur or sugars. Well kept vineyards, and that's enough, says Maddalena, adding that of her wines it's what comes closes to what she looks for in Franciacorta . Deeper gold with slight greenish reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with rich green sour lemon supported by savory accents and bread crumbs, and by some gunflint as well. Quite elegant and very enjoyable. On the palate it's deft, with rich sour lemon fruit that has some greenish accents and is supported by sparkle and savory minerality supported by some mineral bitterness that flows into a long bitter finish with slight peppery accents from the sparkle. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif; one could also press it into service with foods but it doesn't need the distraction. A friend occasionally says wines are "lovely," and I think he would say so here.
92-3

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut Vintage Riserva 2003

Lot 0610RT
This is a vineyard wine, from their oldest vineyard -- 46 years old -- and is a Chardonnay, and spent 7 years on lees. It's pale straw gold with slight greenish highlights, and has fine intense perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with gunflint and hammer-struck granite mingled with bitterness and bread crumbs, and with some smoky accents and slight sour lemon. Nice balance and enticing; it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full and creamy, with fullness coming from both bitter minerality and fine sparkle, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quick to write but quite impressive, with minerality playing very well with sparkle and the acidity, which -- thanks to harvesting at the proper time -- is quite sufficient to hold its own despite the heat of the 2003 summer. A delightful sipping wine, and beautiful minerality.
93-4

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Rosé Rosa Rosae Brut

Lot 1210 R
Salmon with some onionskin in the rime, and fine perlage. 30% pn, 24 months on lees. The bouquet is deft, with savory minerality mingled with some gunflint and sea salt, and slight wet bread crumbs. Pleasant in a savory zesty key. On the palate it's bright, with lively minerality and sour berry fruit laced with barest hints of raspberry and supported by mineral acidity and sparkle that flow into a clean rather mineral finish with some peppery notes from the sparkle. It's quite approachable in a fairly muscular, powerful key, and will drink very well with foods; and because it has a bit more body and fullness, will also work well with delicate white meats, for example Spiedo Bresciano, the slow-cooked spitted birds traditionally enjoyed for the winter holidays in Brescia, Expect it to go quickly, and it is versatile too.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta DOCG Nuvola Demi Sec

This is their Demisec, which they have been making for a while -- since 1980. Few wineries make it, but it gives an opportunity to those who want to finish the meal with something less dry. Chardonnay and Pb, on lees for 21 months, and 20-25 g liter of sugar that makes it more balanced. It's pale straw yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with some bread crumbs and slight yellow fruit mingled with citric accents and some gunflint; it has nice depth and there are hints of sugar though it's not obviously sweet. On the palate it's elegant, with deft citric accents mingled with gunflint minerality and sweetness that adds body and fullness, and complements the sparkle, flowing into a clean sweet gunflint laced finish that in some ways brings sweet licorice root tio mind -- there's a lot to say, and it is enjoyable and the licorice in the finish carries at length. A fine wine for after a meal, or perhaps with cheeses. Very pleasant.
88-90

An Alternative dessert made with this Demi Sec by clubs in Cesena, a coastal area of Romagna also known for its fruit trees: Slice very ripe peaches cut use the slices to line a balloon glass. Let them rest in the glass for an hour, then add Demi Sec and serve.

As we closed Maddalena said she is much more interested in acidity than alcohol, and firmly believes in low sugar levels for her bubbly. I certainly can't object.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Villa

Villa's Alessandro Bianchi was one of the first to believe in the Franciacorta region's potential for making great sparkling wines, and the estate continues to be a leader, both in terms of the quality of the wines, and in terms of promotion -- one of the major problems besetting sparkling wines in Italy is the perception that they are either suited to toasts, if dry, or to desserts, if sweeter. You will also encounter them as aperitifs, but are much less likely to be served one between the beginning and the end of the meal.

A pity, because a good sparkling wine can work wonders with all sorts of dishes, from risotti and pasta dishes through fish and meats, and to draw attention to this fact the Bianchi family has organized several editions of a program called Sparkling Menu, in which they ask chefs of top restaurants throughout Italy (and beyond) to build menus around one of their Franciacorta wines; the participants at the dinners rate the recipes (and the wine-food pairings), and the chefs who did the top-rated recipes in the various categories (antipasti, firsts, seconds and so on) are invited to Monticelli Brusati for a final dinner, at the end of which the most successful dish and pairing receive an award.

It's an excellent idea others should pick up on, and a few years ago I was enthralled by a delicately roasted bird prepared by one of the chefs for the finale -- a pigeon perhaps -- that was superb with bubbly. Wouldn't have thought it, but it was.

This year Roberta and Paolo (Alessandro's daughter and son-in-law) presented a couple of new wines, one of which would have gone perfectly with the above mentioned pigeon.

Villa Franciacorta Satèn 2007
100% Chardonnay, 30 months on the lees. Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is rich, with mineral accents supported by sour lemon and some delicate breadcrumbs. Quite welcoming. On the palate it's smooth and rich, with fairly intense lemony fruit supported by acidity and peppery accents from the sparkle, and by sea salt that flows into a fairly long soft savory finish. Quite pleasant and very approachable; it will work well as an aperitif or with simple fish or white meats, and also with vegetable based risotti. It's a little too soft for fattier risotti along the lines of cheese & truffles.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Brut 2007
This is 85% Chardonnay, 5 % Pinot Bianco and 10% Pinot Nero; it spends 30 months on the lees. It's pale brassy yellow with fine steady perlage. The bouquet is pleasant, with elegant lemony citrus fruit supported by minerality and some breadcrumbs, and by slight gunflint as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with the sparkle conferring a pleasant peppery fullness, while the wine is fairly rich, with savory sour lemon fruit supported by mineral accents that flow into a clean fresh savory finish. Quite pleasant in an approachable key -- it's a brut but is not tremendously acidic -- and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif, and will also be a nice wine to drink with a meal built around cheese (say an elegant cheesy risotto), fish, or white meats.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Extra Blu Extra Brut 2006
A new entry, this is 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Nero; some of the base wine spends 3 months in wood, and then it spends 48 months on the lees. The name, Extra Blu, is a reference to the marine origins of the sediments in the vineyard, and in terms of positioning it's mid-way between the Brut and the Pas Dosé. It's pale brassy yellow with fine intense perlage, and has an elegant bouquet with bread crumbs and gunflint supporting savory minerality and some sea salt; there's also slight sour lemon fruit that provides depth. On the palate it's ample, and dry, with bright minerality and gunflint that gains support and airiness from the sparkle, and flows into a clean fresh gunflint laced finish with underlying minerality and sparkle, which continues at length. Quite pleasant, and though one could happily drink it as an aperitif, it will also drink nicely with foods, ranging from elegant first course dishes (white fish-based risotto comes to mind), cheese dishes, and also fish or white meats. It's versatile, and very pleasant to drink.
90-91

Villa Diamant Franciacorta 2005 Pas Dosé
85% Chardonnay 15% Pinot Nero. Some of the base wine ages in wood for 6 months, and then it spends 48 months on the lees. Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections, greenish highlights, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with gunflint and minerality supported by wet bread crumbs and slight hints of butterscotch and sea salt; it's quite harmonious and pleasant to sniff in a bracing sort of way. On the palate it's full, with some of the fullness coming from the sparkle, and quite bracing, with powerful minerality and mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish. It has zing, of the sort I look for in a quality sparkling wine. It's not as approachable as some of the other wines -- rather it demands one's attention -- but it has a great deal to say, and the cooler wetter weather of the 2005 summer only helps matters by increasing acidity and minerality. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
92-3

Villa Cuvette Franciacorta Brut 2005
85% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Noir; some spends time in oak, and then it spends 42 months on the lees. Brassy gold with brilliant greenish gold reflections. The bouquet is powerful and rich, with sour lemony fruit supported by considerable gunflint and savory accents, with underlying wet bread crumbs. By comparison with the Pas Dosé it's a little more harmonious, and also has slightly more gunflint. On the palate it's ample, rich, and creamy, with fairly intense bitter gunflint supported by creamy sparkle and bitter mineral acidity that flows into a clean warm rather mineral finish. Very pleasant, with considerable character and harmony, and also extremely approachable; the Pas Dosé is a bit more demanding, whereas this is more welcoming. It's a question of degrees, and which you will prefer will depend upon your taste.
90

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2004
80 Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero, the base then spends 6 months in wood and 60 months on the lees. It's pale brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy reflections, while the perlage is very fine and persistent. The bouquet is elegant, with savory mineral accents laced with sour lemon acidity and slight wet bread crumbs; great harmony and finesse., and quite pleasant to swish and sniff. On the palate it's, well, the word "good" comes to mind; by comparison with the 2005 wines it's a little less acidic, but displays beautiful gunflint minerality and savory notes supported by creamy sparkle and some bitter accents that flow into a clean fresh finish with underlying savory lemon and gunflint bitterness. Quite deft, and very elegant; it will drink nicely as an aperitif and it will be perfect for roasting or drinking with friends far from the table, or, if you want to be extravagant, you could drink it with crustaceans or even oysters.
92

Note -- this was the last wine of the second day at Vinitaly.

Villa Franciacorta Brut Rosé 2007
They have increased the pinot noir to above 40% and the wine spends 30 months on the lees. Pretty onionskin with brilliant brassy reflections and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and slight hints of forest berry fruit supported by gunflint, breadcrumbs, and savory accents. On the palate it's full, with the fullness coming from both sparkle and minerality, and quite refreshing, with bright minerality and acidity that flow into a clean dry finish. Very pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with foods, and in terms of pairings I might think of delicate white meats, while a fellow taster liked it with spicy foods. The first wine of the day, and it's an auspicious beginning.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Demisec
This isn't a vintage wine, because the Disciplinare says no vintages should be applied to sweeter bubbly, a policy one can agree with or not, but that must be followed. The wine is all 2007 however. Pale onionskin with fine insistent perlage. The bouquet is bright and rich, with sweetness mingled with some raspberry fruit and slight savory notes that add depth and freshness. Inviting. On the palate it's full and rich with dusky raspberry fruit supported by minerality and acidity, while the sparkle also confers fullness, and it flows into a clean bright fairly mineral finish. Quite pleasant, and is a wine that will work well with piquant cheeses, or with wild berry fruit and other fresh desserts. It's also a wine one could open on a summer evening while watching the stars come out.
90

Campei Sebino IGT 2010
Tank sample
This is a Chardonnay; it's brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections, and has an elegant bouquet with greenish vegetal accents mingled with heather and slight tart fruit, which is between citrus and slightly towards apple. Refreshing, and there is also underlying minerality. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant mineral laced heather and citrus that is quite smooth and flows into a ling delicate citrus with slightly greenish mineral underpinning. Quite pleasant, and promises very well. With respect to the last vintage, it's a little tighter and not quite as beckoning (the Italian word would be ruffiano, which -- in this context -- would be a girl giving a boy a come-hither look)

Pian della Villa Curtefranca DOC 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant minerality and hints of butterscotch supported by some gunflint and underlying white fruit, which is towards apple. On the palate it's graceful, and quite mineral, with minerality and mineral acidity that are quite harmonious, and flow into a clean mineral finish. Pleasant, in a delicate key, and will drink nicely with fish, and also be a nice aperitif.
2 stars

Villa Curtefranca DOC Rosso 2007
This is the last vintage of Curtefranca Rosso -- they will be shifting to Sabino IGT because changes to the Disciplinare will further limit the amount of Barbera and Nebbiolo the wine can contain, something they don't want to do because on their lands Barbera and Nebbiolo grow well. The bouquet is bright, with rich red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and some underbrush. Quite fresh. On the palate it's light, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that have slight brambly accents and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with deft savory tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and quite versatile, from red sauced pasta dishes through simple grilled meats and light stews. You will want a second bottle.
2 stars

Villa Curtefranca DOC Gradoni 2007
Deep cherry ruby with lively cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by brambly greenish accents and some vegetal notes. Nice depth and balance, and very fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite elegant, with rich red berry fruit, sour cherries in particular, though there are also black currants and hints of blueberry, supported by lively berry fruit acidity supported by very smooth sweet tannins; it's quite graceful and very young. One could drink it now with a steak and be very happy, or -- if one has a case -- keep it for 5-6 years, and then open a bottle a year for a number of years.
90-91

Villa Querqus 2007 Sebino IGT Merlot
Deep ruby with violet in the rim. The bouquet is unmistakably Merlot, with rich cassis supported by some graphite shavings and hints of underbrush, and also some alcohol. On the palate it's deft, and very smooth, with moderately intense cassis fruit supported by tannins so smooth they seem smaller than they are, and by deft mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long deft finish with some graphite shavings and deft fruit that continues at length. Quite pleasant but one-track; it's a Merlot and with respect to the Gradoni lacks the complexity that the other varietals confer. If you like Merlot you will like it very much, but if you are less of a devotee you may find more satisfaction with the Gradoni.
2 stars

For more information on Villa (they have a beautiful agriturismo too) see their site.

Villa In Verticale: Villa Franciacorta Cuvette

The folks at Villa held their first vertical 16 years ago, and it was a thing among friends, to get an idea of how their wines aged. Well enough that they decided to hold another the next year, and with time the gathering of friends morphed into Villa in Verticale, which is an eagerly awaited and quite popular June event.

This year Alessandro Bianchi decided to showcase Cuvette, the wine he introduced in 1986 to celebrate his daughter Roberta's marriage to Paolo Pizzol. At the time the wine was a Sec, in other words several steps up from Brut in the sweetness scale, and as such was groundbreaking for Franciacorta, where most of the wines being made were Brut or drier. But Alessandro wanted a wine that could be drunk during the meal, and since few Italians at the time drank sparkling wines at table, he decided to go with something richer and more approachable than a Brut.

Cuvette is a cru, from grapes grown in a hollow on a hillside vineyard, and is primarily Chardonnay, with about 15% Pinot Nero, The wine is in part briefly barrel aged, and then spends 3-4 years on the lees prior to disgorgement. While its primary composition has remained constant over time, as Italians have become more comfortable with the idea of drinking sparkling wines with foods they have adjusted the liqueur d'expédition, gradually reducing the sugar content, so the wine passed from Sec to Extra Dry, and finally to Brut. As such, we were presented with a moving target as it were, with the 2005 though 2002 vintages Brut, the 2001-1999 vintages Extra Dry, and the 1997, 1994 and 1991 vintages Sec.

All the bottles were production bottles, disgorged 3-4 years after going onto the lees, and as such offered an excellent opportunity to evaluate the longevity of Villa's wines. Which is impressive.


Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2005
Brassy golden yellow with greenish reflections and highlights. And fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with rich slightly greenish gunflint and spice with rich heather and hints of butterscotch and savory notes as well. Beautiful balance. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly greenish gunflint minerality supported by creamy sparkle and pleasant underlying savory bitterness and bitter acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sip; one could drink it as an aperitif, but it will also drink quite well with creamy dishes.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2004
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is intense, with heather and savory accents mingled with slight wet breadcrumbs, and some gunflint as well; as it opens it gains in intensity opens. Beautiful balance and tightly woven, very fine definition. On the palate it's full, rich, and creamy, with elegant minerality and some mineral acidity supported by creamy sparkle and rich mineral acidity, and also some butterscotch bitterness that flows into a long elegant finish with underlying savory notes that add depth and interest. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, though I might be more tempted to sip it away from the table.
93

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2003
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights, and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is richer than that of the 04, and this is to be expected given the heat of the 03 summer, with more floral accents (honeysuckle, in particular) and less minerality, and also hints of butterscotch sweetness; there's also white berry fruit and some greenish accents. Nice balance is a slightly more voluptuous key. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and creamy, with rich butterscotch minerality supported by creamy sparkle, and flows into a clean bitter butterscotch laced finish with creamy underpinning from sparkle. It's softer than the 03, with less acidity, and this is again to be expected given the heat. A very fine expression of a difficult vintage, and will drink quite well as an aperitif.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut 2002
Pale brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with considerable savory minerality supported by some wet breadcrumbs, gunflint, and some greenish acidity; it's quick to write but extremely harmonious, and invites sniff after sniff. On the palate it's steely, with rich granitic gunflint-laced minerality that gains creaminess from sparkle and flows into a long mineral finish with some butterscotch and slight sour lemon; it's extremely fresh and bracing and has a long, exciting story to tell. Great regret when the glass is empty.
95

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Extra Dry 2001
Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is rich, and slightly sweeter than the 2002, but then again it is an extra dry; there's greenish white berry fruit supported by some breadcrumbs and bitter accents with some greenish spice as well, with underlying lemony acidity. Pleasant in a richer key, and requires a mental shifting of gears. On the palate it's ample, with rich sour breadcrumbs laced with butterscotch and some gunflint bitterness and slight bramble, while there is also an underlying sweetness that confers roundness, and supports the sparkle, flowing into a clean rather voluptuous finish with underlying sweetness that's pronounced, but not cloying. Quite elegant, and will work very well as an aperitif, with cheese based antipasti or cheese dishes.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Extra Dry 2000
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, though not quite as rich as I had expected; with sweetness and minerality but not as much fruit, laced with savory butterscotch and slight bread crumbs; I found myself wondering if the extreme fry heat of August 2000 had an impact upon the ripening of the grapes. On the palate it's ample, and soft, and creamy, with butter apple and fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by creamy sparkle that flows into a clean rather bitter gunflint mineral finish. Pleasant, though a little more settled than the others, and this is due to the heat, which knocked back the acidity some. Quite nice, but it's more of a wine for a wine lover than for the general public; it's not as immediate as the 2001, but has more of a story to tell those who are willing to listen.
92-3

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Extra Dry 1999
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and fine insistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with slight greenish mineral accents and savory spice, and clean greenish minerality as well. Impressive, with considerable depth, and though it's an extra dry it's not as sweet on the nose as some are. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, with some lemony accents and minerality supported by sparkle and mineral sweetness that flow into a clean savory mineral finish with slight bitter underpinning.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Sec 1997
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is clearly mature, with savory mentholated accents underlying by a slight pungency that comes with age to some whites, and clean minerality; though it's a Sec it doesn't come across as sweet. By comparison with some of the younger wines it is less approachable, and takes more attention to plumb. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with rich butterscotch laced yellow fleshed fruit (apricot with hints dried peach) supported by sparkle and some savory minerality, and flows into a clean fairly sweet mineral finish with slightly pungent apricot-butterscotch overtones. It's a bit over the top, and this is a characteristic that's actually fairly common in 97 (which was hailed as the vintage of the century at the time) wines; it's very charged, with tremendous concentration, and takes things a little too far.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Sec 1994
Slightly paler brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage it looks fresher than the 97. The bouquet is rich and fairly sweet, with fine floral fruit accents supported by sweetness and some sweet butterscotch, also some candied citrus and some warm milky accents as well. Graceful, and very nice to sniff. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with graceful white fruit that's not at all overripe, and is supported by bright lemony acidity and slight hints of butterscotch, while the sparkle also adds creaminess to the texture, and it all flows into a clean bright finish. The wine is less charged than the 1997, and much more graceful; it has a great deal to say and is, most impressive, one of those wines one enjoys, ignoring all else, and feels considerable sorrow to have finished.
93-4

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Sec 1991
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. This is from a cooler, wetter vintage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with lemony fruit mingled with sour lemon, gunflint, and savory accents. Quick to write, but pleasant to sniff and one wouldn't guess it is entering adulthood at this point. On the palate it's ample, with rich savory minerality supported by lemony acidity that is quite intense, enough that the sweetness of its being sec really doesn't stand out, and supported by some bitter savory notes as well, and flows into a clean long savory finish with considerable lemony acidity and some gunflint bitterness. A very pleasant, and completely unexpected surprise; it doesn't seem like a sec thanks to its acidity, but has a pleasing fullness to the palate and will drink very well with foods, especially rich grilled fish. Having said this, the 94 is more about finesse, whereas this is a bit coarser and broader shouldered. It's not a wine most people would want to drink far from the table, but does have quite a bit to say and will work well with foods. I would expect it to age well for at least 5 years more.
88-90

More Villa in Verticale

• Villa Franciacorta Satèn
• Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut

Villa's Site

Villa's Franciacorta, Tasted at Vinitaly

I met Alessandro Bianchi, founder of the Azienda Agricola Villa and one of the first to believe in Franciacorta, a number of years ago, when I was gathering the notes for the itinerary of Franciacorta that appeared in issue number 5 of the paper edition of the Italian Wine Review. It was the last appointment of the day and I was probably late, but he graciously stopped whatever he was doing, took me around, and then we ended up sitting in his office, sharing a bottle of bubbly, and chatting about this and that. It was a wonderful end to the end of a long but productive day.

Since then I have made a point of visiting Villa as often as opportunity allows: His daughter Roberta and her husband Paolo are just as pleasant as he is, they organize delightful events, and their wines are very good. They were mobbed this year at Vintialy, but did find space for me in a corner of their stand.

Villa Franciacorta Brut Satèn 2006
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with pleasant greenish citric accents mingled with gunflint minerality, wet breadcrumbs, and some savory spice. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly soft, thanks also to some sweetness -- it's brut but not bone dry -- with bright slightly greenish white berry fruit supported by creamy sparkle and fairly soft acidity that flows into a clean peppery finish with some hints of breadcrumbs and minerality. A classic Satèn, which will be very nice as a wine to toast with, or to drink with friends when you want a smoother softer but still substantial and complex sparkling wine.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Brut 2006
80% Chardonnay, 10 each pinot bianco and pinot nero. Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine steady perlage. The bouquet is rich, with white berry fruit supported by wet breadcrumbs and slightly greenish minerality, with pleasing gunflint as well. It's a bit richer than the 2005, and more opulent, and this is because the vintage was richer. On the palate it's ample, with pleasant cramy white berry fruit supported by minerality and deft citric mineral acidity that flows into a clean bright citric finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or a tutto pasto, with foods at a meal. In fact, I would rather drink it with an elegant fish risotto or grilled or roasted fish -- I'm not a fan of oysters but it would be nice there too.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Rosé Brut 2006
This is 60% chardonnay and 40% Pinot Nero, and is elegant onionskin with paler rim and fine perlage, The bouquet is fresh, with raspberry and white berry fruit laced with breadcrumbs and spice, quite fresh and still very young. On the palate it's bright, with considerable dry minerality supported by mineral acidity and some raspberry citric acidity that flows into a clean fresh finish in which the sparkle, which is creamy at the beginning of the sip, becomes peppery and adds life. Considerable depth and quite pleasant to sip; it will be a pleasant aperitif or a nice option if you want to dine with a sparkling wine. Worth seeking out.
90

Villa Franciacorta Diamant Pas Dosé 2004
This is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Nero, and after a part of the wine spends several months in oak, it all spends 48 months on the lees. Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and intense perlage. The bouquet is elegant and intense, with wet breadcrumbs mingled with gunflint minerality and slight greenish accents, and pleasing sour lemony acidity. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's quite nice, with clean lemony fruit that gains definition from slightly pungent gunflint minerality and creaminess from the sparkle, while it all flows into a clean bright sour lemon finish that lasts and lasts. Quite nice, and will be very nice as an aperitif, and also be nice with foods especially creamier dishes, ranging from pasta through fish and white meats. In short versatile, and will drink nicely in many situations. Worth seeking out.
92

Villa Cuvette Franciacorta 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with wet breadcrumbs mingled with gunflint minerality, delicate sour lemon acidity and sea salt, and though it's quick to write it's also quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with clean minerality supported by gunflint and some bitterness, while the sparkle confers creaminess, and it flows into a clean mineral finish with some breadcrumbs, and peppery accents from the sparkle. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with foods; it is as are most of Villa's wines, quite versatile.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2004
A prerelaese sample; it spends 5 years on the lees. Pale brassy gold with fine intense perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with greenish minerality supporting breadcrumbs and savory notes, and slight butterscotch as well that adds depth, while the fruit is greenish sour lemon. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant slightly sour lemon fruit supported by deft minerality and creamy sparkle that has a pleasant savory underpinning, and flows into a clean fresh slightly citric finish. Very pleasant and displays considerable depth, though it's still young -- it was just disgorged and has yet to recover from the insult. By the time it leaves the cellars, in fall 2010, it will have.
90

Villa Franciacorta Selezione Brut 2001
This was disgorged in 2007 and has by now recovered. It's pale brassy yellow with slight greenish reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is quite intense, with powerful slightly greenish gunflint minerality laced with breadcrumbs, though what really emerges is the gunflint, and also intriguing sour lemon acidity; it's quick to write but very harmonious and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and creamy with rich sour lemon fruit supported by mineral citric acidity and some gunflint bitterness, and flows into a clean fresh mineral finish. Quite nice, and has a great deal to say; it will drink nicely as an aperitif, but is a wine I would be more tempted to simply break out and enjoy with friends far from the table, Lots to say.
92-4

Villa Franciacorta Rosé Demisec 2006
Pale salmon with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate red berry fruit supported by breadcrumbs, savory accents, and some sweetness. On the palate it's ample, and sweet -- a demisec -- with moderately rich forest berry fruit supported by acidity and creaminess from the sparkle, which flow into a pleasant fairly sweet finish. A nice dessert wine that will drink well with creamy desserts and similar, and will also be something to break out with friends who want to enjoy a sparkle on a summer afternoon.
2 stars

Villa Campèi Chardonnay IGT Sebino 2009
This is a new wine from the Campèi vineyard, and is soft pressed and fermented in steel. They decided to call it an IGT instead of a Curtefranca DOC because the DOC doesn't allow the mention of the varietal on the label. It's pale brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is rich, with sweet honeydew melon and white berry fruit supported by pleasing vegetal notes and some underlying sweetness. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful loquat laced tropical fruit supported by greenish spice from grapes and warm slightly vegetal acidity that flows into a fairly long fruit laced finish. Pleasant in an opulent fruit driven key, and though it is still very young it is quite drinkable; it will be nice as an aperitif with egg or cheese based antipasti, and will also be nice with flavorful, not too fatty fish or white meat dishes. A nice addition to the line.
2 stars

More Villa:
Their Site
A Villa Satén Vertical
A Villa Selezione Brut Vertical

Franciacorta: Fine Bollicine

Valentine's Day is rapidly approaching, and it is tradition to celebrate with sparkling wines. The most obvious Italian choice is Franciacorta, a superb sparkling wine produced between the city of Brescia and lake Iseo. I have written extensively on the region in the past (read the article here), and the wines being made have not changed since then.

The vintages have, however.

As is the case in some other sparkling wine appellations, Franciacorta producers are not required to state the vintage on their bottles. A non-vintage wine is not necessarily inferior; producers often blend more than one vintage to obtain a sum whose whole is greater than its component parts. Because of this blending, non-vintage wines tend to be more consistent year-to-year. Vintage wines are instead made with the wine from a given vintage, and since each vintage is different are less consistent, or, if you will, more individual. And like individuals can be better or worse than the average.

This year most of the vintage wines presented were 2005 and 2004, which are very different. 2005 was wet and cool, and therefore difficult; there were problems with ripening and many Italian 2005 wines, reds especially, are strident and brambly with thin sour fruit, and the problem also carried over to still whites, many of which were distinctly acidic. Acidity is much less of a problem in sparkling wines, however, as it serve to provide a backbone for the sparkle to build upon, and therefore 2005 was a good vintage for Franciacorta, with wines that are lively, bracing, and quite nice to drink.

From a general standpoint the 2004 vintage was much better than the 2005, and it did result in Franciacorta that is quite different: Richer, curvier wines that are more powerful and more structured, though (fortunately) neither overripe nor soft.

There were also a few older wines, in particular a couple of 2003s whose richness did echo the heat of the 2003 vintage, and a couple of 2002s, one of which was bright, brash, and spellbinding, with all the acidity one would expect from one of the wettest and coolest vintages in recent memory.


Having spoken of the vintages, a couple of words about the tasting. It was beautifully organized. Unfortunately, due to other commitments I was not able to spend as much time there as I would have liked, and was forced to taste a selection of wineries rather than everyone.

The Wines, In The Order Tasted:

Azienda Agricola Villa
Villa Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. Rich nose with moist bread crumbs mingled with savory accents and minerality; it also gives an impression of softness. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's rich and elegantly mineral supported by gunflint bitterness and slight pepper from the sparkle, which is creamy, and flows into a bright savory finish. Considerable depth and more complex than many Satèns. A nice aperitif and a good, nay, excellent introduction to the wine if you have never tried it. There's a touch more acidity than in some other vintages, and this is because it was cooler.
88-91

Villa Cuvette Franciacorta Brut 2004
Pale brassy greenish white with fine perlage. Elegant bouquet; it's vinous with gunflint and breadcrumbs, and pleasant underlying savory bitterness. Great depth and considerable richness. On the palate it's full, and rich, with enticing creaminess from the sparkle, mingled with lemon laced bitter minerality that flows into a long clean bitter mineral finish. Quite nice, beautifully refreshing, and is one of those wines one can converse with.
91-2

Villa Diamant Franciacorta Pas Dosè 2004
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with mineral accents mingled with some gunflint and savory notes, and underlying lemony citrus. Very nice. On the palate it's rich, with bright mineral-laced lemon fruit that gains depth from deft bitterness and a bracingly creamy feel from the sparkle, which flows into a clean bitter finish. Great depth and elegance, with lively mineral acidity, and will drink very well as an aperitif or at table.
92

Uberti
Uberti Franciacorta Extra Brut (Non Vintage)
Brassy yellow with fine perlage. Intense bouquet with considerable gunflint -- like a hammer striking granite -- and some minerality mingled with wet breadcrumbs, some spice, and hints of caramel. On the palate it's full and a touch laxer than I had expected, with moderate bitterness and savory accents that flow into a very bitter finish.
2 stars

Uberti Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy gold with golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish floral and vegetal accents supported by deft acidity; it gives an impression of softness, though some gunflint provides depth. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich white berry fruit supported by creamy sparkle, while the finish is clean and bitter, with mineral acidity providing direction. A distinct step up from the Extra Erut, an appealing, eminently approachable wine.
90

Ricci Curbastro
Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Gualberto Dosaggio Zero 2003
A magnum. Pale brassy greenish yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and toasted breadcrumbs supported by bitterness and gunflint. Nice balance. On the palate it's bracingly dry, with rich savory minerality supported by sparkle that flows into a clean savory finish. Pleasant and with quite a bit to say; it's drier and more toned (like an athlete) than I might have expected a 2003 to be -- none of the overripeness that plagues the vintage.
2 stars

Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with brassy greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents and some minerality. Direct but pleasant. On the palate it's full and soft, with moderate sparkle and nice creaminess supported by savory accents and some citric acidity. A classic Satèn, and very approachable.
2 stars

Monte Rossa
Monte Rossa P.R. Brut (Non Vintage)
A magnum. Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with spice and greenish floral accents supported by wet breadcrumbs and some lemony acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright citric fruit supported by sparkle and some bitterness that flows into a clean savory finish with bitter underpinning. It's pleasant and versatile -- good for both aperitif and throughout the meal -- but I found it a bit direct, and if you look for more complex wines this isn't quite it.
2 stars

Lo Sparviere
Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Brut 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine persistent perlage. Elegant, fairly intense bouquet with gunflint and bitterness laced with wet breadcrumbs, On the palate it's full, and rich, and creamy, with bright bitter minerality supported by sparkle and mineral acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. Quite approachable, and displays a pleasing easy elegance.
88-90

Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Brut Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. Elegant bouquet with citrus and vegetal accents mingled with some caramel and underlying gunflint that gives depth. On the palate it's full and soft, with a rich creamy feel, and mineral-laced with some sea salt, hints of lemon, and underlying bitter almonds. Quite approachable, and also displays considerable complexity.
90

Lo Sparviere Franciacorta Rosè (Non Vintage)
Elegant onion skin with fine perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with brambly minerality supported by hints of red berry fruit and some gunflint, with underlying wet toast and barest raspberry. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, rich, and deft; it's not bone dry, and this contributes to making it approachable and pleasing, while red fruit and mineral acidity keep it on its toes, flowing into a clean mineral finish with underlying red berries. Quite approachable, in a wide-eyed smiling sort of way, and will drink very well with foods, or in the course of a romantic occasion.
90

Il Mosnel
Il Mosnel Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is clean, with fresh minerality and some gunflint as well as sea salt. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly bright, with clean savory accents that flow into a fairly bitter finish which isn't quite as dry as I might have expected. It's quite approachable, and a fine base wine.
2 stars

Il Mosnel Franciacorta Rosè Pas Dosèe 2005
Pale onionskin with brownish reflections and fine perlage; quite delicate and a far cry from brash pink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with clean bitter minerality and breadcrumbs mingled with some sea salt and gunflint, with citric acidity as well. On the palate it's bright, with ample savory gunflint and considerable bitterness with some minerality. Beautiful balance, and flows into a clean bright mineral finish that gains creaminess from the sparkle. It combines approachability and depth, and is quite pleasant.
90-91

Il Mosnel Franciacorta EBB Brut 2005
Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with butterscotch and white blossoms mingled with gunflint acidity and wet toast Nice balance. On the palate it's it's rich and creamy, with bright lemony fruit supported by considerable acidity and clean sparkle that flow into a clean bright citric finish. Quite elegant, and will drink very well with foods or as an aperitif, though (if your guests are wine lovers) it may monopolize the conversation.
91-2

La Ferghettina
La Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with breadcrumbs and some apple -- not much gunflint nor bitterness, and it's rather direct. On the palate it's fairly rich, and though savory is sweet for a brut, with clean bright bitterness and some minerality that flow into a bitter finish. Quite direct, and while this is fine in a vino base, I might have expected a little more complexity. It will in any case work nicely with foods at table.
2 stars

La Ferghettina Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly sweet, with bitter almonds and some minerality, and graceful in a curvy sort of way. On the palate it's ample and soft, with minerality that gains creaminess from the sparkle, and flows into a clean mineral finish with hints of gunflint and some bitter almonds. Quite pleasant and eminently approachable, though not as complex as some. In short, perfect for an occasion in which the wine will contribute, but is not the star.
2 stars

La Ferghettina Franciacorta Extra Brut 2002
Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is deft, with moineral acidity and breadcrums underlain by bitterness and some mnerlaity; nice balance. On the palate it's full, bright, and mineral, with clean fresh mineral acidity and creamy sparkle that flow into a clean bright finish. Displays considerably more depth than the younger wines form the estate.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi
Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 25
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, and mineral, with sea salt and wet breadcrumbs mingled with mineral acidity. On the palate it's fresh and quite approachable, with a fairly bright creamy feel supported by minerality and sparkle. Softer than some, and fresh; it's approachable in an up-front sort of way -- What you see is what there is, and there's not too much depth, but the overall impression is nice.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Rosè 2005
Pale salmon with rosyreflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with bitterness and some gunflint supported by more gunflint -- it's like hammer-struck granite. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful savory minerality supported by mineral acidity and sparkle, which confers a creamy feel and flows intoa clean fresh savory finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif or at table.
90

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2005
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is clean and fresh, with gunflint and brambly minerality supported by wet breadcrumbs and some almond skin, with underlying sea salt as well. Pleasing and complex, and fairly delicate too. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I had expected, with lemony fruit supported by creamy sparkle that flows into a clean lemony finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant, though a bit more direct than I would have expected from a vintage wine.
2 stars

Barone Pizzini
Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly bitterness and some savory accents mingled with wet breadcrumbs and a fair amount of minerality. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with savory minerality supported by bitterness and some greenish citric acidity, while the sparkle confers a pleasant creaminess. Quite nice for a vino base, and will work equally well as an aperitif or at table.
88-90

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish citric accents and some sea salt; it's pleasingly complex in a softer key. On the palate it's ample and soft with creamy lemony fruit that has bitter almond accents and flows into a clean bright citric finish. Quite approachable in a fairly soft key, though there is quite enough acidity for the wine to have backbone and direction. A good bet for a romantic occasion.
88-90

Barone Pizzini Franciacorta Bagnadore Brut 2004
Pale greenish brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with greenish vegetal accents and gunflint mingled with wet breadcrumbs and some gunflint, with hints of honeysuckle too. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and deft, with lively lemony mineral-laced fruit supported by creamy sparkle and some bitterness that flows into a clean bitter finish that gains depth and direction from mineral acidity. Quitr elegant, and with a great deal to say.
91-2

Bellavista
Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvèe Brut (Non Vintage)
From a magnum. Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, and savory, with sea salt and gunflint. Direct, but it does display nice depth. On the palate it's clean, and fresh, with pleasing minerality and creaminess from sparkle, which flows into a mineral finish with some gunflint and slight pepper from the sparkle. A welcoming wine that will work well with foods, and also be nice as an aperitif.
2 stars

Castelveder
Castelveder Franciacorta Brut 2004
Ple brassy yellow-gold with gold highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with almond skin and lemony accents mingled with some gunflint, and salty wet breadcrumbs. Nice depth. On the palate it's it's full and quite bitter, with a fair amount of alcohol as well, and bitter butterscotch supported by sparkle and gunflint that flow into a fresh bitter finish. It's not quite as tight as a cooler vintage would be, but is pleasant if you like bitterness as opposed to a more acid-driven style. In short, it's more particular than some, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
88

Castelveder Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale greenish yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense and gives an impression of softness with some bitter almond and hints of breadcrumbs. On the palate it's ample, with bitterness more than acidity and flows into a creamy bitter finish.
2 stars

Cà Del Bosco
Cà Del Bosco Brut Cuvèe Prestige (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet toast and breadcrumbs supported by gunflint and some minerality. On the palate it's fresh, and fairly full, with pleasant creaminess from the sparkle, minerality, and fairly intense almond bitterness that flows into a clean bitter mineral finish Quite direct, but also quite approachable, and will drink quickly.
2 stars

Cà Del Bosco Franciacorta Dosage Zero 2004
Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with lemony fruit supported by slightest tea leaf (good tea leaves) and breadcrumbs, with savory accents and hints -- just hints -- gunflint. Graceful. On the palate it's full and quite mineral, with fullness coming from both minerality and sparkle, while the wine gains direction from mineral citric acidity. Quite pleasant, and will be very nice to drink with friends or far from the table.
90-91

Cà Del Bosco Cuvèe Annamaria Clementi Franciacorta Brut 2002
Brassy golden green with fine perlage. Deft bouquet with gunflint and wet breadcrums supported by hints of cedar and slight bramble with deftly integrated bitter minerality. Considerable depth and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with lively acidity (2002 was cold and wet…) that's mineral, with brambles and hints of citrus supported by peppery mineral accents from the sparkle, which continue into a mineral finish. Very nice, and proves that sparkling wines do best in cooler wetter summers that confer greater acidity.
92-3


Contadi Castaldi
Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut Rosè 2005
Pale brassy pink with fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with sea salt and some gunflint supported by bramble and hints of red fruit. On the palate it's full, savory, and fairly direct, flowing into a clean bitter finish. Up front, and what you see is what there is.
1 star

Cornaleto
Cornaleto Franciacorta Satèn 2003
Pale brassy yellow with golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with bitter honey and slight minty caramel accents. -- obviously from a hot vintage, but nicely balanced and has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full, rich and soft, with elegant creaminess supporting clean mint-laced bitterness and some white plum fruit. Nice balance, and has developed very well. It's not as tight as a cool vintage would be, but has much to say and will drink very well.
88-90

Cornaleto Franciacorta Brut Riserva 1999
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with bitter almonds, slightly pickled lemon accents, savory notes, and breadcrumbs -- a lot going on. On the palate it's full and rich, with deft creaminess, butterscotch-laced minerality, and slightly lemony mineral acidity that flows into a clean mineral finish. Commanding, and gives an impression of great distance -- or austerity, if you will -- and is one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting. Should you come across a bottle, buy all means enjoy it!
92

Gatti Enrico
Gatti Enrico Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is dry, with gunflint minerality and some spice mingled with some breadcrumbs. Not as seductive as some, rather shows more restraint. On the palate it's ample and creamy but aga8in drier, and more about the interplay between savory minerality and creaminess than fruit, and flows into a creamy savory bitter finish. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it does reflect the cooler, wetter 2005 summer.
2 stars

Gatti Enrico Franciacorta Brut 2004
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with wet bread crumbs mingled with gunflint and bitter honey, with underlying minerality. Nice depth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively mineral-laced bitterness supported by sparkle, which confers peppery creaminess and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant to drink, in a bracing way, and will also drink well with foods.
2 stars

Berlucchi Guido
Berlucchi Guido Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
This is an intentionally young wine; it's brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is young, fresh, and mineral, with wet toast, airy CO2, and some gunflint. On the palate it's bright, fresh, young, and lively, with clean bright lemony fruit supported by sparkle, and flows into a clean bright finish. Pleasant in a young zesty key, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods. A wine to set out and drink -- it's not long on complexity -- and in the proper setting will go quickly.
2 stars

Berlucchi Guido Palazzo Lana Franciacorta Satèn 2004
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is a bit unusual, with quite a bit of yeast, wet breadcrumbs, and some spice. On the palate it's ample, soft, and a bit settled, with bitterness and moderate acidity supported by sparkle.
1 star

Bersi Serlini
Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Brut Cuvèe 2004
Pale brassy gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with butterscotch and deft breadcrumbs mingled with hints of bitter almond and some anise -- just a touch that adds depth. On the palate it's ample and delicate with creamy lemon-laced minerality supported by a deft creamy sparkle and by some gunflint that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant in a more delicate, graceful key, and will work well as an aperitif.
2 stars

Bersi Serlini Franciacorta Extra Brut 2002
Brassy yellowwi fine perlage. The bouquet is deft and mature, with slightly picked lemony fruit supported by petroleum and lemony acidity. On the palate it's ample, creamy, and rather bitter, flowing into a clean bitter finish. It promised well on the nose, but I found it more settled on the palate.
2 stars

Cantina Chiara Ziliani
Cantina Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Brassy lemony yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable minerality supported by bitterness and bitter almonds, with underlying spice and hints of bitter honey. On the palate it's full, with bright mineral-laced bitterness and bitter chinotto fruit supported by creaminess from the sparkle that flows into a clean savory finish with underlying bitterness. Quite lively, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Cantina Chiara Ziliani Franciacorta Satèn 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense and mineral with some greenish accents and hints of bramble and gunflint - it seems underdone somehow. On the palate it's ample, soft and mineral, while there is mineral acidity for direction. It's not as successful as some.
1 star

Castello Bonomi Tenute in Franciacorta
Castello Bonomi Cru Perdu Franciacorta Brut (Non Vintage)
Brassy yellow with fine perlage. Elegant bouquet with brambly vegetal accents mingled with gunflint and some citric acid, and also minerality, sea salt, and wet breadcrumbs. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lemony minerality supported by creamy sparkle that flows into a clean bitter finish. Nice depth, and will drink well with foods or as an aperitif. It will go quickly.
88-90

Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Extra brut 2004
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is clean and rich, with fine gunflint and savory notes mingled with lemony acidity, wet breadcrumbs, and hints of sea salt, with underlying bitter almonds. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter lemony fruit supported by sparkle that confers creaminess, and by savory accents that flow into a clean bitter finish with citric underpinning. Quite pleasant and will work very well as an aperitif or at table; the acidity is delightfully deft.
91-2

Castello Bonomi Franciacorta Satèn (Non Vintage)
Pale brassy yellow with fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and lemony with some wet breadcrumbs and underlying gunflint. Pleasant. On the palate it's soft, clean, and fresh, with elegant citrus fruit supported by bitterness that flows into a creamy finish. Quite seductive, and an ideal wine for a romantic occasion.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Satèn: A Vertical

Satèn is Franciacorta's reply to Champagne's Crémant, a softer, more seductive sparkling wine initially developed by Cà del Bosco and Bellavista (they allowed all to use the term after the French were given rights to Crémant) to attract those who might be put off by drier sparkling wines such as Brut or Pas Dosé. As such one might expect it to be less interesting than its drier cousins. And in some cases it is.

But not as many as one might think, however, because it quickly became quite popular, and Franciacorta's sharper producers realized it had become one of their most important calling cards, a way to get people to try their wines, and then (hopefully) move up the scale towards their top bubbly. One doesn't stint with a calling card, and when Villa's Alessandro Bianchi decided to introduce his Satèn in 1995, he didn't cut corners in the slightest.

What he did do was favor approachability over complexity and depth, because at the time the Italian taste for sparkling wines was much less sophisticated than it is now. We will get to the 95 presently, because the vertical was for a general audience, and started with the youngest wine:

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense persistent perlage. Rich nose, with some breadcrumbs, moist spice, savory accents and minerality. It seems quite soft, and is still developing. On the palate it's rich, with elegant minerality supported by gunflint bitterness and savory accents, with slight pepper from the sparkle, and flows into a clean bright savory finish. Considerable depth and more complex than many Satèns I've tasted; it will be a good aperitif, and offers an excellent introduction to Satèn if you have never tried it. There's a touch more acidity than in some years, because 2005 was a cool summer. Quite graceful.
89-91

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2004
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with deft spice and breadcrumbs laced with clean freshness, tart mineral acidity, and some gunflint. Quite nice, with excellent balance; it's richer than the 05, and this is in part the vintage and in part greater age. On the palate it's fresh with clean bright savory accents and more structure than the 05; it's supported by clean savory acidity and sparkle, whose softness confers the creaminess typical of Satèn and flows into a clean savory finish with some bitter accents. Very pleasant, and will work beautifully as an aperitif or at table. Impressive.
92-93

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2003
The wine is a richer brassy gold than some, and this is because of the long, hot 2003 summer; there's fine, intense, bubbly perlage. The bouquet is full and fresh, with minerality and hints of sweetness mingled with sea salt, spice, and slight breadcrumbs, with underlying vegetal notes and tart acidity laced with softness. It's richer and riper than the others, again because of the summer, but not excruciatingly ripe. On the palate it's ample, rich, and full, with minerality and gunflint bitterness supported by sparkle and some savory accents; there's less acidity and this makes it softer. Good, but less interesting than this is the vintage at work.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2002
2003's mirror image, the child of a cold wet summer. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is intense, with breadcrumbs and minerality mingled with acidity and some greenish gunflint accents. More mature than those preceding it, and also much livelier, with more depth and zest -- a brilliant wine, that also reveals honey and walnut skins. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by sea salt and bright acidity, with some walnut skin bitterness, and sparkle that confers creaminess. Quite nice, rich, lively, and deft. They say sparkling wines shine in cool vintages because they have more acidity, and this vintage certainly confirms the saying. Beautiful freshness and youth, too.
93-4

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2001
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and abundant persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, and mature, with rich savory breadcrumbs and spice mingled with some walnut rind bitterness -- what is called mallo in Italian -- and some gunflint. Quite a bit going on, and quite elegant. On the palate it's full, rich, and powerful, with savory minerality supported by walnut-laced sour lemon acidity and clean peppery spice, while the sparkle again confers creaminess that flows into a long bitter finish supported by deft acidity. Quite elegant, and has quite a bit to say, with a nice balance between acidity and savory, and has aged very well. It is approachable, but also displays considerable depth, and will work equally well as an aperitif or at table. An impressive wine that is mature, and anything but tired.
90-92

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2000
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine intense persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich in a softer key -- August 2000 was searingly hot -- with minerality and some gunflint but less acidity; there are also some tertiary aromas, including greenish walnut skin. Nice depth, and elegant albeit in a softer hot summer key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with minerality and savory notes supported by bitterness and sparkle; it's softer, and the heat of the vintage comes through in the relatively lesser acidity, and as a result it comes across as flatter than the others. Quite approachable in any case.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1999
Pale brassy gold with fine intense persistent perlage. Mature colors; there's more gold to it. The bouquet is rich, with deft breadcrumbs and bitterness supported by chestnut honey and some greenish accents, also walnut rind. Impressive and quite elegant; there aren't many 10-year old Satèns at this level. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright mature lemony fruit supported by walnut skin bitterness and clean fresh creamy sparkle that flow into a pleasant rather bitter finish. It's graceful, deftly balancing minerality and acidity, with a lot to say. Impressive.
92-3

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1998
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, and elegant, with clean spice, minerality, and some savory balsamic notes. Quite harmonious with acidity and minerality plying off each other. On the palate it's full, and rich, and sweeter than the younger vintages, and this is because of a course correction -- the initial vintages of Satèn were intentionally sweeter and softer to appeal to the tastes of Italian wine drinkers of the time -- there's clean bright slightly savory citrus fruit supported by deft acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with some balsamic accents. Graceful, and has a lot to say; it has held up quite well and will continue to age well for years to come. It's more approachable and softer than the younger vintages, with a fine balance between bitterness and acidity.
91-93

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1996
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy golden reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is intense, with breadcrumbs and wet bread supported by greenish accents, walnut rind, and some gunflint, with underlying balsamic accents. On the palate it's a bit duskier than the younger vintages, ample, soft, and quite approachable, with a deft balance between sweetness and sparkle; it's a classic and very approachable Satèn, and is what one expects of the wine: while it is pleasant (and better on palate than nose), it's not as interesting as some of the more recent vintages that have a defter acid balance, and this is why Villa's Satèn has evolved. This said, hats off; it is a fine wine that laid the groundwork for the vintages that followed.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1995
This was their first Satèn, and as such is not quite an experiment, but almost. Brassy gold with fine persistent perlage, and a rich bouquet with minerality and spice, coupled with savory accents. It comes across as rather soft, but is quite elegant, a study of harmony. Quite nice, and I would certainly never have guessed it was 14 years old. On the palate it's full, rich, and savory, with clean bright white fruit supported by savory accents and sweetness, while the sparkle provides creaminess, and the whole is beautifully balanced. A most auspicious launch for a wine, and though some of the other wines were perhaps better, it offers much room for thought. I see, in my notes, the word "superlative."
90-92

Winding down, it was a most impressive tasting, which clearly showed how the wine developed, gaining complexity and depth from vintage to vintage, and following a path that is in some respects more interesting than those traced by other sorts of Franciacorta, for example Brut.

Villa's Franciacorta Selezione Brut: Another Vertical, and a more thorough presentation of Alessandro Bianchi and his winery.

Villa's Site

Spumantia 2008: Fine Bubbly!

This year I returned to Spumantia, Viareggio's presentation of sparkling wines: It's an interesting event, because rather than focus on a particular kind of wine, there was everything from light, spritzy Prosecco through much more serious, well aged Franciacorta and Champagne. I had a great time, and here is a selection of wines, some of which will be perfect for Valentine's Day or other romantic occasions, while others will be nice with friends at table or while talking far from food.

The wineries are listed in the order tasted. Auguri!

Villa
Villa Franciacorta Rosé Demi-Sec
Pale onion-skin salmon with fine perlage, and a vinous bouquet with some red berry fruit and underlying wet breadcrumbs mingled with hints of sage and herbs. Nice depth. On the palate it's rich, full, and creamy, with pleasant red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and some pungency, while the sweetness adds fullness, and the sparkle a pleasant creamy feel. It will be quite nice as an aperitif or far from the table, though I found it a little soft for most foods. Tortelli di zucca, squash tortelli, might be an idea.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Brut Millesimato 2004
Pale greenish gold with fine persistent perlage. Elegant bouquet with rich white berry fruit -- sour plums -- mingled with spice and hints of savory gunflint -- there's something bracing about it. On the palate it's bright, with clean crisp white berry fruit supported by smooth rich minerality and very fine sparkle that confers a slightly creamy feel to it and flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Very nice, combining pleasing finesse and considerable elegance, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods, either fish or light meats.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Cuvette Brut Millesimato 2003
Pale brassy gold with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, and more mature than the 04 Brut Millesimato, and also riper, with breadcrumbs and heather mingled with some gunflint. Great finesse in a slightly more opulent key, and this is the 03 vintage at work. On the palate it's full, soft, and ample, with clean minerality laced with butterscotch and creamy sparkle that flow into a clean rather bitter mineral finish. It's richer and softer than some vintages, and is therefore a bit more extreme -- one will like it or not. But if one does, it is very, very nice.
91

Villa Franciacorta Diamant pas Dosé Millesimato 2002
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with gunflint minerality and bitterness laced with breadcrumbs and underlying sea salt. Quite a bit going on, in a deft way. On the palate it's full, rich, and pleasingly savory with elegant minerality supported by peppery notes from the sparkle as well as savory acidity that flows into a clean bright finish with lasting gunflint bitterness. 2002 was a cooler, wetter year, and this translates into greater acidity in the wine, which becomes (at least for me) more interesting. Quite nice, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with white meats.
90

Villa Franciacorta Satèn Millesimato 2004
Pale brassy gold with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some breadcrumbs, and has a creamy minty feel to it. On the palate it's full, and soft -- this is a hallmark of the Satèn style -- with pleasing minerality supported by smooth sparkle whose softness confers a creamy feel, and flows into a clean fresh slightly acidic finish buoyed by the sparkle. It's quite approachable and frankly seductive, and will be an excellent wine with which to introduce those unfamiliar with dry sparkling wines to the genre. It's also quite versatile, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods. Satèn has a reputation of being easier than other Franciacorta wines, but this one has facets a sparkling wine lover will enjoy. Worth seeking out.
88-91

Casale Falchini
Falchini Metodo Classico Millesimato Brut 2005
This is made from the grapes used to make Vernaccia di San Gimignano (check), and had just been disgorged at the time of tasting. Elegant brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is also elegant, with greenish vegetal accents laced with bread crumbs and some sea salt. Deft, with a fair amount to say. On the palate it's full, with a slightly more aggressive sparkle, and bright slightly greenish accents supported by bitter minerality that brings cider to mind somehow, and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif or with foods, though to be quite honest it's not as good as past vintages have been -- 2005 was difficult in Tuscany, and it shows here.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Borgo Antico
Azienda Agricola Borgo Antico Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Gran Cuvée 2007 DOC
Pale greenish white with fine perlage. Classic nose with rich, freshly cut and very crisp Granny Smith green apple aromas mingled with hints of mint that add complexity. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rich, with clean bracing green apple fruit supported by bright green apple acidity and clean peppery accents from the sparkle that flow into a clean deft apple finish. It's squeaky clean, and a great delight, capturing the concept of Prosecco perfectly. Defects? That it will go quickly.
88-91

Torre Dei Vescovi
This is a cooperative, with 1600 members who supply grapes.

Torre dei Vescovi Lessini Durello Brut
Non-vintage, poured from a Magnum. It's pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and fine perlage, and has a moderately intense bouquet with minerality and some sparkle in the nose, and hints of bread crumbs -- it gives an impression of dryness. On the palate it's rich, with pleasant yellow plum fruit supported by savory minerality and some acidity, while the sparkle adds peppery accents. It has a pleasing, wide-eyed direct freshness to it, and is one of those wines that makes a nice impression and drinks well. Nice as an aperitif, with creamy soups, or simple fish.
2 stars

Terre Dei Vescove Le Macine Metodo Classico
Non-vintage; this is a blend of Pinot Nero and Chardonnay, and spends 36 months on the lees. It's greenish brassy gold with fine perlage, and has a powerful nose with abundant breadcrumbs mingled with gunflint minerality and spice. On the palate it's rich, and full, with bright clean mineral accents and white fruit, while the sparkle confers a creamy texture to the wine, which flows into a clean savory finish. Quite approachable, and though it doesn't have the deftness of a top Franciacorta it is pleasant to drink, and will work very well as an aperitif or with delicately flavored foods.
2 stars

Guido Berlucchi
Their wines are all metodo Classico.

Guido Berlucchi Cellarius Brut 2005
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet combines breadcrumbs and some gunflint, and displays nice depth. On the palate it's direct, with lively slightly savory sour white plum fruit supported by savory accents and acidity, while the sparkle adds peppery notes. Quite direct, up front even.
2 stars

Guido Berlucchi Cellarius Rosé 2004
Pale rose with fine white perlage, and a clean bouquet in which breadcrumbs mingle with some red berry fruit and are supported by hints of bramble. On the palate it's full, and slightly bitter, with sparkle contributing considerably to the sensation of fullness, and moderate acidity.
1 star

Guido Berlucchi Cuvée Imperiale Max Rosé
Non-vintage
Pale salmon with fine, intense perlage. The bouquet is intense, with savory accents and underlying minerality and some red berry fruit, in particular blackberries, with mentholated overtones. On the palate it's full, and rich, with moderately intense mineral-laced red berry fruit supported by clean sparkle and deft raspberry acidity that flows into a long clean raspberry finish. Much more interesting than the Cellarius, and provides food for thought; it will be nice as an aperitif or with fish or light meat dishes, and also has the wherewithal to work well with moderately spiced Chinese dishes. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Guido Berlucchi Cuvée Storica Franciacorta Brut
Non-vintage; Berlucchi is large enough that they buy grapes for most of their wines outside the Franciacorta zone. This is made from grapes within the zone, however, and is therefore a Franciacorta. It's brassy yellow with tawny reflections and fine perlage, and has an intense bouquet with breadcrumbs and greenish minerality laced with some sage. Inviting. On the palate it's fairly full, in a direct sort of way, with clean bright minerality supported by creamy accents from the sparkle and savory bitterness that provides depth. Pleasant in a direct way -- it's not as complex as some -- and will drink well as an aperitif or at table, going quickly.
2 stars

Carpené Malvolti
Carpené Malvolti Prosecco di Conegliano DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart apple -- delicious more than green -- supported by some airy foam and hints of almond. On the palate it's clean, and fresh, with bright fairly sweet apple fruit supported by bright apple acidity that flows into a clean slightly bitter apple finish. Direct and will drink well as an aperitif or with risotti, vegetable or fish based pasta dishes, and light fish or meats.
2 stars

Carpené Malvolti Rosé Cuvée Brut 2007
This is a blend of Pinot Nero and Raboso, racked off the skins after brief maceration. It's pale salmon pink with lively salmon reflections and white perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with red berry fruit and some mineral acidity. The palate is more interesting, with richer red berry fruit supported by crisp acidity and sparkle that adds fullness, and flows into a fairly long mineral finish. It will drink nicely as an aperitif, with cold cuts, egg or mild cheese based antipasti, and will also be pleasant with creamy dishes.
2 stars

Carpenè Malvolti Kerner 2007
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense perlage. Elegant bouquet with pleasing floral accents mingled with citrus and honeysuckle with underlying minerality. Elegant, and quite inviting. On the palate full and rich with clean honeydew melon fruit that gains direction from deft citric acidity and slight bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory finish. Quite nice, with excellent depth and richness, an wine that will work very well as an aperitif or with foods. Drawbacks? The bottle will likely go too fast.
90-91

Carpenè Malvolti Voignier 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with gunflint minerality laced with some citric notes and savory accents On the palate it's rich and bracing, with lively citric fruit supported by clean citric acidity and nice sparkle that flow into a clean tart finish with peppery accents from sparkle. It's quick to write, but quite harmonious, in a sassier key than the Kerner: If the former is a beautiful woman in an evening gown, here she's dressed to go hiking eager to set out.
88-90

La Scolca
Soldati la Scolca Brut 2004
This is a Cortese, the grape that yields Gavi. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. Rich bouquet with breadcrumbs and greenish accents laced with minerality and some smoke. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's rich, with bright minerality supported by sparkle that confers a creamy feel, and by bright acidity that keeps the wine very much on its toes, and flows into a clean slightly bitter finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well as an aperitif or with creamy dishes, ranging from risotto through fish and white meats. It has a lot to say, and the conversation is interesting.
90-91

Le Bertole
Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Brut DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with slight greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some green apple mingled with tartness. On the palate it's fairly direct, with moderate crisp delicious apple fruit and some mineral acidity that flow into a clean mineral finish. It's direct, and approachable, but doesn't display great depth. I found it a bit understated.
1 star

Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Cartizze Dry DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green apple fruit supported by moderate citric acidity. On the palate it's bright, with lively crisp apple fruit that gins from the sparkle, which contributes peppery accents, and flows into a clean fresh finish. I found it growing upon me.
88-90

Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Extra Dry DOC 2007
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections; fine white perlage. The bouquet is crisp, with mineral acidity and hints of tart apple laced with some Granny Smith tartness. Nice, and fresh. On the palate it's full, with rich tart apple fruit supported by both sparkle and clean bright acidity that flows into a clean fresh finish. There's not as much depth as there was in the Cartizze, but it will be nice as an aperitif, and also fairly versatile at table.
2 stars

Le Bertole Prosecco Valdobbiadene Dry Supreme DOC 2007
Pale brassy white with green highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart apples -- some green apple too -- mingled with apple acidity and hints of minerality. Nice depth and quite pleasant. On the palate it's fairly rich, with apple fruit supported by clean sparkle and by bright acidity, which flows into a clean graceful apple finish. And that's it; it's a graceful wine that will drink well as an aperitif or with antipasti, in particular cold cuts and mild cheeses, and will also work well with creamy dishes, for example risotti. It's not quite as tight as the Cartizze, but nice.
88

Casalini Andrea
Casalini Andrea Prosecco Valdobbiadene Brut DOC
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. Rich bouquet with clean Granny Smith apples supported by fresh tart apple acidity; it's quite inviting. On the palate it's fresh and zesty, with apple fruit backed up by mineral acidity and supported by the sparkle, which flows into a clean fresh bitter mineral finish. Quite approachable, and though a touch too bitter to be drunk by itself it will work very well with cold cuts or cheeses, and also be nice with creamy pasta dishes or risotti. Expect it to go quickly.
88

Casalini Andrea Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The nose is fairly rich, with clean fresh apple fruit and some minerality. Not as rich as the Brut, but inviting nonetheless. On the palate it's full, and fresh, with fairly intense apple fruit supported by clean crisp apple sparkle that flows into a crisp finish. Pleasant, and will drink well as an apaeritif or with creamy dishes.
2 stars

Casalini Andrea Prosecco Valdobbiadene Millesimato Dry 2006
Pale brassy white with greenish accents and brassy reflection; fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately rich, with apples laced with gunflint and slight hints of almonds; though it's not really young it has remained fresh. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant apple fruit supported by soft sparkle and moderate acidity. It's quite approachable, and ideal for those who find really dry sparkling wines too dry; it will work well as an aperitif or with delicate meats or fish. Worth seeking out if you like this more approachable style.
88-90

Astoria Vini
Astoria Vini Cuvée Fashion Victim Lounge Vino Spumante 2007
This is 90% Prosecco and 10% Chardonnay, and is pale brassy white with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with strong floral accents mingled with some tartness and underlying minerality - the Chardonnay makes itself felt, while the apples of Prosecco are masked. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense apple fruit supported by sparkle and moderate mineral acidity that flows into a clean bitter finish. It's quite approachable but fails to really excite - the combination of varietals muddies the waters, as it were, and I found the Chardonnay to be getting in the way.
1 star

Astoria Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Cartizze 2007
Pale greenish brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with green apples mingled with dried delicious apples and moderate acidity. Fresh and inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively crisp apple fruit supported by clean bitter minerality that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant, and will frink very well as an aperitif or with crustaceans, also creamy risotti or pasta dishes.
88

Fratelli Berlucchi
These are the cousins of the late Guido Berlucchi; their vineyards are all within the Franciacorta production area.

Fratelli Berlucchi Brut 25 Franciacorta
This is an intentionally young Franciacorta; the 25 is a reference to the 25 months that must pass between harvest and release per the Franciacorta Disciplinare. The wine is pale greenish gold with lively greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich with gunflint minerality mingled with herbal accents and some toasted breadcrumbs. Quite a bit going on and fresh too. On the palate it's again fresh, with clean slightly mineral fruit laced with savory accents and supported by a very smooth sparkle whose fineness makes for a creamy feeling, and it flows into a clean savory finish. Quite pleasant and eminently approachable, in the manner of a Satèn but with greater depth. I found it growing upon me.
88-90 **

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Pas Dosé 2004
Lively greenish gold with fine perlage. The bouquet is intense, with powerful gunflint supported by wet breadcrumbs and herbal accents, as well as menthol and spice. On the palate it's full, and rich, with clean minerality supported by savory accents and deft mineral acidity, while the sparkle adds depth. Pleasant, in a slightly more solid key than some Franciacorta, and will drink well with creamy dishes, ranging from risotto through meats or fish, but is a little too charged to work well as an aperitif.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut 2004
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh, with clean minerality laced with herbal accents, some sage, and almonds and breadcrumbs. Defter than the Pas Dosé. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant yellow fruit supported by savory accents and wet crumb bitterness that lead into a clean sacory finish that gains depth from the sparkle. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with foods. Worth seeking out.
90

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Brut Rosé 2004
This is 70% Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, and 30% Pinot Nero; it's pale salmon with lively salmon reflections and fine perlage. The bi si fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by pleasant herbal accents, and also hints of sweetness and wet breadcrumbs. On the palate it's full, with the fullness from both sparkle and red berry fruit supported by deft raspberry acidity that flows into a clean raspberry-lemon finish. It will be pleasant as an aperitif, and also nice at the table.
2 stars

Fratelli Berlucchi Franciacorta Satèn 2004
Pale brassy white with greenish reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with gunflint minerality laced with some acidity and breadcrumbs, as well as spice and some savory accents. Pleasant and inviting. On the palate it's full, and soft, as Satèn is want to be, with clean rich white berry fruit supported by slightly lemony acidity and smooth sparkle, whose softness confers a creamy texture, and flows into a clean fresh savory finish. Quite approachable, and will drink well as an aperitif or at the table. One usually doesn't talk about wanting a second bottle of Franciacorta, but in this case one might worth seeking out.
88

La Colombara
La Colombara Prosecco Valdobbiadene Extra Dry
Pale papery white with fine perlage. Bright bouquet with fairly rich apple accents supported by tart apple acidity; nice crispness too. On the palate it's fresh, and light, with lively green apple fruit supported by crisp apple acidity and flows into a clean crisp finish. Quite approachable in a clean, direct key, and will be pleasant either as an aperitif or at table, especially with creamy dishes such as risotto.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Andreola Orsola
Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with crisp green apple mingled with some Delicious apple. On the palate it's light, with crisp green apple supported by sparkle and deft apple acidity. Quite drinkable and very approachable too.
2 stars

Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Vigneto Dirupo Extra Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is rich, with moderately intense apple fruit supported by sparkle and airy sweetness, with some herbal accents as well. Deft. On the palate it's full and rich, with fairly intense apple fruit supported by smooth soft sparkle. Quite deft, and will drink very well as an aperitif or with friends far from the table, say on a patio under the stars.
88

Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco Millesimato Dry 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is bright, and fresh, with rich apple fruit supported by deft apple acidity and dappled shade. Refreshing and inviting. On the palate it's full, with rich apple fruit supported by clean tart green apple acidity and peppery accents from sparkle that continue at length, fading into a long apple laced finish. Quite nice and very approachable; it will drink very well as an aperitif and will also be nice with foods, especially in a romantic setting. Worth seeking out.
90

Andreola Orsola Dirupo Valdobbiadene Prosecco Brut 2007
Pale brassy green with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fresh and delicate, with apple fruit supported by sparkle and faint sweetness that adds depth. On the palate it's full, and a touch drier than I had expected, with crisp apple acidity more than apple fruit flowing into a clean fresh finish. Pleasant and approachable, and will be a nice aperitif or accompaniment to a meal.
2 stars

Andreola Orsola Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOC Superiore di Cartizze Spumante Dry 2007
Pale greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white perlage. Elegant bouquet with deft green apple fruit supported by tart apple acidity, and though it is quick to write there's considerable depth and a lot going on. On the palate it's rich and elegant, with powerful crisp green apple fruit that displays some hints of Delicious apple and is supported by tart apple acidity that flows into a clean tart apple laced finish with spicy notes from sparkle. Great depth and elegance, and a pleasure to drink.
92

Santa Margherita
Santa Margherita Kettmeir Brut Metodo Classico
Non-vintage; it's 50% Pinot Bianco, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Nero
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly intense with gunflint minerality and savory accents mingled with bitterness and wet breadcrumbs. On the palate it's fairly rich in a savory key with greenish accents supported by sparkle that flows into a lasting bitter finish. It's a bit heavy on its paces, and I would have liked greater deftness.
1 star

Santa Margherita Kettmeir Gran Cuvée Alto Adige Brut
Non-vintage; this is a Pinot Bianco
Pale brassy green with brassy reflections. Deft bouquet, with minerality and some white pear mingled with slight breadcrumbs and savory accents. Nice depth. On the palate it's rich, with pleasing minerality supported by mineral acidity and sparkle that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Deft, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with delicately flavored fish or white meats. I found it growing upon me, and though it gives an initial impression of directness, complexities do emerge.
2 stars

Santa Margherita Kettmeir Metodo Classico Rosé
Non-vintage; this is a Pinot Nero
Pale rose pink with pink reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dry red currant and raspberry fruit supported by clean mineral acidity. On the palate it's bright, with clean bracingly dry red berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and sparkle that adds a peppery tang to the fruit and the finish. It will drink nicely as an aperitif, and also with cold cuts and cheese or egg-based antipasti, as well as with creamy first course dishes, along the lines of risotto.
88

Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore di Cartizze
Pale brassy white with fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with slightly stewed apple fruit supported by acidity and gunflint. Not as clean as some. On the palate there's moderate apple and white fruit supported by moderate acidity that flows into a clean finish. I would have expected more from a Cartizze than I found.
1 star

Francesco Scanavino
Francesco Scanavino Diamant Plus Metodo Classico Millesimato 2004
They are in Langa (Piemonte), but buy Pinot Nero grapes from the Oltrepó Pavese, add 20% home-grown Chardonnay, and keep the wine for 40 months on the lees. It's pale brassy white with greenish reflections, and fine perlage. Pleasant bouquet with clean minerality and slight citrus accents. Deft, and gunflint also emerges with time. On the palate it's fresh, with clean minerality and sour lemon fruit supported by clean savory accents and deft minerality, with considerable fullness from fruit and acidity too. Pleasant, and I rather enjoyed it.
2 stars

Agricola Caseo
Gioia Caseo Spumante Brut Metodo Classico
Non-vintage; it's 70-30 Chardonnay-Pinot Nero, and spends 24 monts on the lees. Deep gold with golden reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich, with breadcrumbs and butterscotch mingled with bitterness and gunflint. On the palate full and creamy, with ample butterscotch and white berry fruit supported by acidity, sparkle, and gunflint bitterness that flows into a clean fairly savory finish. It's pleasant, and will also be quite versatile at table.
2 stars

Agricola Caseo Rosé Caseo Brut
This is a Pinot Nero that macerates for 8 hours on the skins, and spends 36 months on the lees. Classic onionskin with apricot reflections and fine perlage. Rich bouquet, with clean dry red berry fruit supported by bramble and acidity, with underlying gunflint. Nice balance, and it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with clean minerality and some red berry fruit supported by peppery accents from the sparkle, and flows into a fairly long finish. It's not quite as rich on the palate as I would have expected from the nose, but is pleasant, and the gunflint bitterness that emerges in the finish is nice. It will be a pleasant aperitif, and drink nicely at table too.
2 stars

Agricola Caseo Caseo Blanc de Blancs
This is a Chardonnay, and is non-vintage.
Brilliant greenish brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is quite powerful, with intense butterscotch mingled with breadcrumbs, almonds, and vegetal accents. On steroids. On the palate it's equally charged, with ample rich butterscotch supported by moderate acidity -- though the vintage isn't declared, the grapes are 2003, and were very ripe -- and by clean sparkle that flows into a clean butterscotch finish that's fairly long. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you do have to like barrel fermented sparkling wines. If you don't you will not like it.
2 stars

Caseo Grand Cuvée Pas Dosé Oltrepó Pavese 2001
This is 70% Pinot Nero and 30% Chardonnay, barrel fermented, and spends 60 months on the lees. It's golden with greenish highlights and fine perlage. The bouquet is powerful, with butterscotch mingled with white pear and hardwood ash, while there is also underlying gunflint. Mature, and elegant in its maturity. On the palate it's ample and full, with powerful almond-laced minerality supported by deft acidity and clean sparkle that flow into a clean savory almost balsamic finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with creamy dishes, though I found it to be a bit too charged to serve as an aperitif.
88-90

Bellussi
Bellussi Prosecco di Valdobbiadene 2007
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense with apple fruit mingled with some sugary accents. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright apple fruit supported by clean white berry fruit that gains depth from apple acidity and flows into a clean sour apple finish. Pleasant and will drink nicely as an aperitif or with friends on a patio. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Bellussi Belcanto Di Bellussi Cuvée Brut Vino Spumante
This is non-vintage; it's pale brassy white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense with some apple fruit supported by sugary accents and some honeydew melon; the combination sounds odd but works well. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate white berry fruit supported by fairly brisk acidity. It's not as bright nor as fresh as Prosecco, and though pleasant seems hindered, somehow.
1 star