Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Vernaccia Di San Gimignano: The 2008 Vintage, Primarily

Vernaccia di San Gimignano's origins are shrouded in the mists of time: Some even suggest that the grapes used to make it were brought by the Etruscans. In any case, over the centuries the vines adapted superbly to the soil, and by the Renaissance Vernaccia was considered Italy's finest white wine, fit to fire the imaginations of poets, artists and Popes. Because of its historical renown, it was the first Italian wine to be awarded DOC status, in 1966.

This recognition proved a mixed blessing -- As Riccardo Falchini notes, in the centuries after the Renaissance warfare and turmoil swept away most of the region's enological traditions. Thus, most of the modern (as of 1966) white wines of San Gimignano bore little resemblance to their ancestor; in short order Vernaccia acquired a reputation of being light and spritzy that has still not been dispelled today, despite tremendous improvements in quality, especially on the part of the leading vintners.

Part of the problem is that Vernaccia grape is not noble, and therefore requires careful cultivation to low yields and superb technique to give good results; even today there are considerable differences in quality and much is still spritzy. Why do vintners persevere with it rather than plant Chardonnay? Because it's distinctive and unique, and the best is excellent: Powerful and full-bodied, with a rich, heady bouquet and a crisp clean taste that lingers long on the palate, a golden-hued wine that both warms and inspires. As Montenidoli's Elisabetta Fagiuoli observes, "it is really a red wine made from white grapes."

The Vernaccia appellation is fairly small, about 850 hectares of vineyards, planted on Pliocene hilly terrains of an average altitude of 280 M ASL around the town of San Gimignano; the soil types are primarily argille sabbiose (sandy clays) and sabbie gialle (yellow sands). The predominant varietal is, as one might expect, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, though the DOCG regulations allow a maximum of 10% non-aromatic white varietals to be added. The most popular blending varietal is Chardonnay, though it is not as popular as it was in the past. In other words, people are concentrating more on their Vernaccia.

The vineyards are primarily trained to the Guyot system, with a minimum planting density of 3000 vines per hectare, which many producers exceed by a considerable margin. The total allowable yield per hectare is 90 quintals, and many harvest much less.

The harvest generally falls between September and October 15, and is followed by temperature controlled fermentation; some producers ferment everything in steel or cement vats, while others barrel ferment some of their wines. The minimum alcohol level for Vernaccia di San Gimignano tout court is 11%, and the wine can be released in the spring following the harvest. There is also a Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, which must be at least 11.5% alcohol, and must be aged for a year, at least four months of which in bottle,, prior to release. As general notes, most Vernaccia di San Gimignano is more than 11% alcohol, sometimes considerably more, and though some producers do make the Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva, it is not that popular.

This said, the wines released in 2009 (primarily 2008, with a few older wines as well), tasted in San Gimignano at the end of June 2009:

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico

Agricoltori del Chianti Geografico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasing bitterness and honeysuckle mingled with some brambly accents and slight bitter almond, with underlying hints of tropical fruit, in particular honeydew melon. Welcoming. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich mineral laced citrus fruit supported by acidity and a fair amount of underlying bitterness that flows into a fairly long tart sour tannic finish. Direct in a wide-eyed youthful key -- nothing to hide -- and will work well with cheese or egg based antipasti, and also has the strength o work with lighter white meats, or even fried fish.
2 stars

Agricoltori Del Chianti Geografico Pietravalle Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with floral accents mingled with mineral acidity and some scalded milk, with underlying greenness and spice, and also some bitterness. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral laced citron fruit supported by spice that has savory accents and flow into a warm decidedly salty finish. It's quite young, and will develop further with a year or two, but will work nicely now with hearty grilled fish or white meats, and will also be nice with fried fish or meats and vegetables.
2 stars

Fattoria di Cusona

Fattoria di Cusona Titolato Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and some greenish highlights; white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and brooding, with tartness mingled with sour minerality and hints of gooseberry, and as it opens, hints of scalded milk that resolve into floral accents. It comes across as bulked up, and lumbers some. On the palate it's fairly direct, and quite savory, with warm salty lemon fruit supported by bitter minerality and acidity, which flow into a clean savory finish. Much minerality and savor in a direct fairly simple key, and it will work quite well with flavorful foods, for example fried white meats and vegetables, or fried fish, and also with fattier grilled fish along the lines of salmon. Up front.
1 star

Fattoria Cusona di Guicciardini Strozzi 1933 Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Clear bottle. Brassy yellow with some greenish accents and white rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with tropical fruit -- mentholated pineapple -- supported by vegetal accents and a certain coolness that brings dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's ample, and decidedly languid, with broad yellow berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by savory bitterness that has hints of scalded milk to it, and flows into a warm rather savory greenish finish. It's a bit overripe, and softer than I might have hoped for; as a result it spreads out some.
1 star

Fattoria Cusona di Guicciardini Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Clear bottle. The wine is brassy yellow with golden reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly savory, with sea salt and gunflint mingled with some loquat and bitter almond, and underlying greenish accents. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively bitter savory minerality supported by greenish mineral acidity that flows into a clean bright mineral finish with both saltiness and acidity that carry at length. Pleasant in a mature muscular key, though it's very much a food wine not to be drunk by itself; it will work well with flavorful grilled or roasted fish, and also with robust white meats.
2 stars

Fattoria Cusona di Guicciardini Strozzi Spumante Brut IGT Bianco Toscana
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and fine intense perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with white fruit supported by some sparkle and greenish accents, with underlying minty notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with clean minerality supported by moderate white fruit and sparkle, which flow into a clean fairly rich mineral and white fruit finish. It's direct, but pleasant in a cheeky sort of way, and will drink well as an aperitif or with foods.
2 stars

Tenuta Le Calcinaie

Tenuta Le Calcinaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is clean, and deft, with the heather of a Tuscan field mingled with slight bitter almonds and savory minerality. Graceful. On the palate it's medium bodied, with clean smooth mineral laced slightly brambly lemon fruit supported by minerality and deft acidity. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with creamy, not too rich risotti, vegetable based pasta dishes, and delicately prepared white meats, from land or sea. You may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fratelli Vagnoni

Azienda Agricola Fratelli Vagnoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is muted, and cool, though swishing brings up some citrus that almost brings to mind a lemony glaze with underlying brambly wood from grape, and, as it opens, a degree of bitterness. On the palate it's fairly direct, with minerality supported by mineral acidity and underlying gunflint bitterness that flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish. Fairly direct, and will drink well with egg or cheese based dishes, also with vegetable-based pasta or risotto.
1 star

Azienda Agricola F.lli Vagnoni Fontabuccio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, and brambly, with considerable heather and bitterness mingled with minerality that brings to mind a hammer against granite. Pleasant and nicely defined. On the palate it's bright, with rich minerality supported by some bitterness and mineral acidity that flow into a long clean savory mineral finish. Quick to write, but quite pleasant to drink, and will work very well with all sorts of foods, from pasta and risotti though white meats from land or sea. In short versatile, and you may want a second bottle.
90

Azienda Agricola F.lli Vagnoni Vinbrusco IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Vinbrusco was, traditionally, a white wine made by blending Vernaccia with the white grapes used to make Chianti, i.e. Malvasia and Trebbiano. F.lli Vagnoni's interpretation is slightly different, with 70% Vernaccia di S.Gimignano, 10% Vermentino, 10% Malvasia del Chianti, and 10% Trebbiano Toscano. Clear bottle. The wine is brassy slightly greenish yellow with brassy reflections and paler white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up heather and herbal accents mingled with spice and citrus, also some mint. Airy. On the palate it's ample, with lively lemony fruit supported by brisk slightly sour lemon acidity and some bitterness that flow into a clean fairly bright citric finish with greenish underpinning and some bitterness. Quite approachable, in a direct sort of way, and will drink well with grilled fish or white meats. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
1 star

Azienda Agricola F.lli Vagnoni I Mocali Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Fairly rich brassy gold with brassy reflections and yellow in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tart greenish acidity laced with gunflint and some spice,also greenish almond bitterness and some crushed peach pit. On the palate it's fairly intense, in a languid key, with minerality and some mineral acidity more than fruit supported by butterscotch laced milky bitterness with some savory accents that flow into a bitter mineral finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked greater brightness and verve.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. Looks inviting. The bouquet is fairly rich, with delicate herbal notes mingled with bitterness and the heather of a Tuscan field in the summer sun, while there are also savory accents that provide depth. Nice balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean tropical fruit, pineapple laced with grapefruit, supported by bright slightly mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long grapefruit finish with underlying bitterness. Pleasant, and will work well as an aperitif with cheese or egg based antipasti, and will also work well with vegetable or fish based pasta or risotto, and with steamed or roasted fish. It grew on me; worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Notte di Luna Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with minerality and some bitterness mingled with heather and slight underlying spice from grapes. Opens nicely, with greenish floral accents supported by sea salt emerging. On the palate it's fairly direct, with savory minerality supported by some bitterness and mineral acidity that flow into a clean citric finish with underlying bitterness that provides definition. A nice food wine, a bit tighter than some, and will work well with fish, creamy risotti or pasta dishes, and also has the wherewithal to be nice with fried meats or fish and vegetables. Quite versatile, and will go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Vigna Casa Nuova Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Charged golden yellow with brassy golden reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish heather and bitter almond nutmeats mingled with some spice and hints of citron acidity. Quite young, and still developing, but promises well. On the palate it's bright, with rich decidedly bitter minerality laced with some citron fruit and clean underlying bitterness that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. Bitter used many times, but that's what comes across, and it will work well with succulent grilled or roasted fish, cheese dishes, and also with fried or quickly cooked whit meats that aren't too spicy. In short versatile in a fairly charged key, and will be perfect given the proper setting.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Fontaleoni Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy golden reflections and lemony overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with lemony fruit mingled with strong gunflint and some butterscotch toffee, with underlying minerality as well. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitterness, and by savory notes as well that flow into a warm finish with tongue-sparkling white pepper. It's not as lithe as some of the younger wines -- more bulk to it -- but if you like the style it is pleasant; there's quite enough acidity to keep it from settling, and it will drink well with rich fish or creamy white meats.
1 star

Panizzi

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight green highlights. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly intense floral accents -- cut flowers and hints of honeysuckle mingled with slight loquat -- supported by some greenish bitterness and by underlying slightly pungent minerality. On the palate it's fairly full, and direct, with bright mineral-laced lemon fruit supported by bitterness and some sea salt that work into a fairly long bitter finish with white pepper spice. It's direct, and up front, a very approachable wine that will work well with flavorful fish or vegetable based pasta sauces, or with egg vegetable based entrees, along the lines of a frittata or soufflé.
2 stars

Panizzi Vigna Santa Margherita Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, and ripe, with pineapple fruit mingled with greenish accents and some mint, and also strong herbal notes -- greenish bitter almond/crushed peach pit, and some honeysuckle. It seems quite ripe, and is charged too. On the palate it's ample, with rich ripe loquat fruit supported by minerality and mineral acidity with some underlying bitterness, while there are also peppery accents that flow into a distinctly mineral finish. It's not as powerful on the palate as on the nose, but is graceful, and will work nicely as an aperitif. Truth be told, it's more of an individualist than a team player, and I would almost be tempted to drink it by the glass without foods that might distract. Of course it will also work well with foods, especially flavorful fish or white meats, and I would also think to serve it with oriental dishes. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Panizzi Evoé Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2006
Slightly orange brassy gold with old gold reflections and pale rim. Clearly a little older. The bouquet is intense, with ample crushed peach pit and almond skin greenness mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol, and also a dusky coolness; there's also butterscotch and some minty accents. Quite a bit going on in a fairly intense, very modern key. On the palate it's rich, with powerful fairly sweet white fruit supported by bitter almond laced tannins -- it feels like chewing a peach pit -- alcohol, and warmth. It is an extreme expression of Vernaccia, and fairly international in character; also quite young, and if you like the style you will like it. If you don't you won't and there's no middle ground. In short, it's a wine to pour if you know the tastes of your companions. I would also expect it to age well for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Panizzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2005
Brassy yellow with brilliant golden reflections and highlights. The bouquet is rich, with greenish bitter almond mingled with spice and alcohol, and also greenish acidity. Pleasant in a decidedly mature key. On the palate it's ample, with rich savory lemony fruit that has sour accents and is supported by a combination of sour citric acidity and dusky raspy tannins, and flows into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a mature key -- you have to like this in a wine -- and will drink well with hearty fish stews or similar, also with creamed white meats, and might be a good bet with a chicken pot pie. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Panizzi Il Bianco di Gianni IGT Bianco Toscana 2004
Lively brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and green highlights. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly herbal, with artichoke greenness mingled with spice and some gunflint -- it's mature, and though it's quick to write there's quite a bit to say. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with rich sour lemony fruit supported by greenish accents and minerality that flow into a clean greenish finish. Pleasant, in a mature key, and will drink quite well with flavorful fish or creamy white meats; is the sort of wine that creeps up on own, and I found myself enjoying it considerably. I would also expect it to age well for at least 5 more years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit mingled with heather and some bitterness; then herbal accents, in particular slight mint, come forward mingled with sea salt. On the palate it's full and direct, with fairly rich mineral-laced savory lemon fruit that flows fairly quickly into a bitter mineral finish. The buildup of the nose is more impressive that the palate, which I found more direct. This said, it is quite approachable, and is one of those wines that will seem to drink itself when set on the table; it will work quite well with risotti or rich pasta sauces (vegetable or fish more than meat), and also ahs the wherewithal to work well with white meats form land or sea.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Ab Vinea Doni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is ripe with floral accents and quite a bit of alcohol mingled with mint and nettles, some bitter almond, and underlying butterscotch that makes it feel slightly bulked up. On the palate it's ample, with bright slightly greenish citron fruit supported by greenish bitterness and savory accents that flow into a warm decidedly mineral savory finish with some underlying hints of butterscotch and balsam. I found myself rather enjoying it. A versatile food wine. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Vigna a Solatio Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with golden reflections and brassy rim. The bouquet is bright, with rich loquat fruit supported by greenish spice and some cedar, also by a certain airiness and white pepper. On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample bright white berry fruit laced with loquat and minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish with savory accents and some gunflint as well. Pleasant, in an ample, fairly soft key -- I would have liked more crispness -- and will drink well with rich fish dishes or white meats.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Casale Falchini Spumante Metodo Classico IGT Bianco Toscana 2005
Brassy gold with intense fine perlage. The bouquet is elegant, with intriguing greenish accents mingled with savory notes and sea salt, and tart apple acidity, with some bitter almond as well. Nice balance and pleasant to sniff; with further sniffing hints of lees also emerge. On the palate it's ample, with fullness coming from both wine and sparkle; the fruit is quite dry with some hints of apple, but more almond and bitterness, while the sparkle provides pepper and fullness, and it flows into a distinctly savory mineral finish. Pleasant, and will work quite well as an aperitif or with foods; it's versatile and has quite a bit to say. One of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
88-90.

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy white with brilliant brassy reflections and pale yellow in the rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, revealing slight smoky bramble and cool minerality, but it gives an impression of wanting to be left alone. On the palate it's full and direct, with clean moderately acidic minerality laced with hints of scalded milk and some savory accents, which flow into a fairly long mineral finish with underlying acidity. It's quite direct in a rather loose key, a simple wine that will support what it's served with without hogging the limelight, and will work well with simple vegetable based pasta dishes or risotti, and also with vegetable based entrees or cool summer dishes, for example panzanella.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche I Macchioni Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brilliant apricot laced brassy reflections, and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up faint floral accents mingled with some spice, and slight greenish overtones. Nice balance, and is clearly developing. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich mineral laced bitter citric fruit supported by bitterness that flows into a fairly long decidedly bitter finish. It's not as bright as I would have hoped on the palate, but rather a bit settled.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Casa Alle Vacche Crocus Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brilliant old gold reflections and yellow rim. It looks older than some. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate greenish almond fuzz supported by butterscotch and toffee, and by some lactic acid -- not sure how else to describe it. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich mineral laced sour loquat fruit supported by mineral acidity, which flows into a clean bitter mineral finish with tropical fruit overtones. It's not as graceful as the younger wines, and I found myself missing that grace.
1 star

Gruppo Italiano Vini Melini

Gruppo Italiano Vini Melini Le Grillaie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, giving up faint hints of toffee more than caramel; more swishing brings up minerality and some savory notes, with delicate underlying bitterness. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich savory mineral laced very ripe sour lemon fruit supported by savory accents, some tannins from the grapes and underlying savory bitterness that flows into a fairly long bitter finish. The overall impression is one of languidity, with the nose being slightly behind the palate; this said it's a pleasant food wine that will work well with creamy pasta dishes or risotto, and will also be a nice general summer wine, working well with quickly cooked meats or fish, and with the egg based dishes along the lines of a frittata that make summer heat more bearable. I might be tempted to break it out at a cookout too, for those who would rather not a red.
2 stars

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
A clear glass bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and paler brassy highlights. The bouquet is smoky, with heather and fairly intense pungent notes mingled with bitter almond and underlying bitterness, with slight hints of lathered horse. On the palate it's bright, with rich savory lemon fruit supported by bitter accents and minerality that flow into a clean mineral citric finish that again gains definition from some minerality. It's more complex and more mineral than some, and will work well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, though it will be better with fished based dishes, ranging from grilled salmon through more exotic fare, and I might even be tempted to serve it with more richly flavored dishes, for example kedgeree. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai Santa Chiara Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents and peach pit bitterness mingled with heather and some citron acidity. Nice balance in a fairly rich key. On the palate it's bright, with rich bitter citric fruit supported by greenish acidity and underlying sea salt that carry into a bracingly fresh lemony sea salt finish. Quite nice, in a decidedly zesty key, and will drink well with simple grilled white meats, flavorful grilled fish, and also with creamy dishes or fried fish and vegetables. It grew upon me.
88-90

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2005
Lively gold with brilliant gold reflections and brassy highlights. The bouquet is intense, and clearly mature, with greenish accents and balsam mingled with white berry fruit and spice, while there's also fair gunflint minerality and mineral acidity. Nice balance, and quite rich. On the palate it's ample, with rich greenish sour lemon fruit supported by dusky gunflint bitterness and a fair amount of savory acidity that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a mature key, and has quite a bit to say; it will work well with hearty creamy dishes, either fish or fowl, and I might be tempted to think about eastern dishes as well..
2 stars

Palagetto Tenute Niccolai I Noccolò IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some greenish accents and citrus supported by underlying bitterness. Quite young and still developing. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively citric fruit laced with yellow plum and supported by a combination of sour lemony acidity and tannins that have a raspy core and flow into a clean rather raspy lemony finish.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Le Rote

Azienda Agricola Le Rote Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with lively brassy reflections and pale yellow highlights with faintly yellow rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish; more swishing brings up heather and some vegetal accents mingled with citric tartness and spice. A nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony citric fruit supported by bitterness and some savory accents, with underlying hints of bramble as well that flow into a fairly long savory bitter finish. Deft, in a more languid than tight key, and will drink well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, and will also work nicely with white meats, from land or sea. I think it will also age nicely for a few years.
2 stars

La Mormoraia

La Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is shut tight; swishing brings up some heather and bitter almond with underlying savory accents and a citric underpinning. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich decidedly savory lemon fruit supported by underlying savory bitterness that flows into a fairly long savory citric finish. It's ample, and fairly direct, and will drink well with flavorful fish, for example grilled salmon, and also with white meats, ranging from roasted chicken though fried meats and vegetables. In short, versatile, and worth seeking out.
2 stars

La Mormoraia Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit laced with greenish accents and savory butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich minerality more than fruit, supported by mineral acidity and some savory accents that flow into a bitter mineral finish. It's not as bright as I might have liked -- the minerality is there but lacks verve -- but is pleasant enough in a smoother softer key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it; in terms of accompaniments, I would go with delicately flavored fish or white meats.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Canneta

Azienda Agricola Canneta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and pale brass rim. The bouquet is fairly intense,with ith savory bitterness mingled with some bitter almond and as it opens slightly pungent floral accents. On the palate it's bright, with lively savory minerality supported by a degree of peppery tartness that flows into a clean rather tart mineral finish with underlying savory notes and peppery spice that lasts. Direct, and because of the peppery accents, which are quite palate cleansing, will work well with creamy Italian dishes, and I might be tempted to serve it with moderately spiced oriental dishes (the Cantonese school comes to mind) as well.
1 star

Fattoria San Donato

Fattoria San Donato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and mint mingled with savory notes and floral accents; it's not as tightly defined as some, but seems rather expansive. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with bitter mineral laced citric fruit that has dusky bitter undertones that flow into a bitter fairly tannic finish that's also fairly long. It's direct, and up front, a wine that will drink well with grilled fish or simple white meats, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fired meats or fish, but isn't as complex as some.
1 star

Fattoria San Donato Angelica Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2006
Brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections and pale yellow rim. Clearly a little older. The bouquet is intense, with butterscotch and minerality nicely balanced, and some bitter almond, which emerges with time and swishing to do its part carrying the show. Also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense butterscotch laced minerality supported by dusky savory notes more than acidity, and by slightly raspy tannins that again have bitter butterscotch overtones, and flow into a clean finish with slight underlying oaky sweetness. Vernaccia is masked by wood, but the wood is well used, and if you like deftly oaked whites you will enjoy it. It's just that it's much more generic than a Vernaccia made in steel from the same grapes would have been. In short, you have to like the style.
2 stars

Fattoria San Donato Benedetta Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bitter almond laced with acidity and minerality; though it's quick to write there's nice balance and it's pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's fairly full, with rich lemony fruit supported by dusky bitterness and warm sour lemon acidity that flow into a long salty sour lemon finish with hints of lactic acid. Pleasant, in a fairly mature key, and will drink well with succulent grilled fish or white meats. A nice balance of age, power, and freshness. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Il Palagione

Il Palagione Hydra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and pale papery lemony yellow in the rim as well. The bouquet is fairly intense, with strong greenish accents and underlying mineral acidity, with some bitterness as well; with swishing heather also emerges, and with time savory gooseberry. On the palate it's languid, with fairly bright sour lemon fruit supported by sour citric acidity and by some savory bitterness that flows into a clean bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and will work well with foods, supporting rather than taking center stage. I would drink it with creamy risotti, vegetable (including red sauced) or fish based pasta dishes, and also with white meats from land or sea, either grilled or fried. It opens nicely and is a nice food wine.
2 stars

Il Palagione Enif IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
This is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia. Brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some herbal accents, and some spice, but one has the impression that nobody is home. It needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by lemony acidity and some minerality, which flow into a clean fresh citric finish. Quite approachable, and direct, a food wine that will work well with first course dishes and similar, and might also be a good bet on a picnic.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project Impronta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with considerable heather and slightly smoky bitterness mingled with slight bramble and underlying minerality. Nicely defined. On the palate it's fairly rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by savory citric acidity and some bitterness, which flow into a clean savory finish. It's up front, and very much a food wine, which will work well with fish, cheese or egg based antipasti, creamy vegetable or fish based first course dishes, and will also be nice with frittata and other such egg based second course dishes, as well as with white meats. In short, quite versatile, and while not terrifically complex it one of those wines that will go quickly as it accompanies what it's served with.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project Zeta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich greenish peach pit bitterness mingled with some bitter almond and a fair amount of gunflint minerality, as well as citric acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean gunflint laced citric fruit supported by bitterness and clean bright acidity that flow into a fairly long clean greenish finish with underlying citric acidity. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled fish or white meats, and also with creamy white meat based dishes. It's ready now, but will age well for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Zeta Project Cassandra Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and papery white rim. The bouquet is more intense than I expected, and rather balsamic in an angry way at the outset, with green accents and wood smoke mingled with bitter crushed peach pits and balsam; with swishing savory butterscotch also emerges, and some scalded milk, while the anger fades more into green bitter almonds. On the palate it's rich, with lively rather smoky minerality supported by mineral acidity and peppery spice that flows into a bright peppery finish with underlying mineral acidity that's fairly long. It's ample and powerful; the Italian word that comes to mind is irruento, whose English translation might describe bulls in china shops. This said, it will work well with hearty, richly flavored foods, and also has the capacity to age well for a number of years. I found it a bit bulky, but if you like the style you will enjoy it.
1 star

Fattoria Poggio Alloro

Fattoria Poggio Alloro Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and papery yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with almost chalky floral accents at first sniff, together with some greenish savory accents and spice, it's not quite cedary, but definitely greenish with some smoky overtones. On the palate it's ample, and rather lax, with minerality and mineral acidity supported by some underlying savory bitterness; it brings to mind a person who has let go.
1 star

Cà del Vispo

Cà del Vispo Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively brassy yellow with reflections that have an element of apricot orange to them that suggests, to me, overripening. On the palate it's fairly rich, with greenish fruit that has some sour apricot feel to it, and underlying peppery spice. Quite charged and getting its bearings, though it also seems to lumber some, and there's also quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expected, with moderately intense bitterness and some citric acidity, but less in the way of fruit; the finish is fairly long, with greenish citric accents.
1 star

Cà del Vispo Vigna in Fiore Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is intense, with creenish accents and peach pits, mingled with not quite almond paste, but something in that direction that brings cedar to mind, and quite a bit of alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with quite a bit of alcohol supporting greenish fruit that gains direction from sour citron acidity, and flows into a savory citron laced finish with alcohol underpinning. It's quite charged, and you have to like this slightly over the top style. If you do it will work well with succulent grilled fish, roasted fish, or white meats. But you have to like strong, alcohol intensive wines. In short, particular.
2 stars


Colombaio

Colombaio Selvabianca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008

Lively deep lemony yellow with slightly orange reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with some cedar mingled with sour lemon, and underlying almond skin and green apricot. It seems to lumber in a lax sort of way. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich citric fruit supported by a fair amount of savory bitterness that flows into a clean slightly tannic bitter finish. It's ample, and not as tightly defined as I might have liked; the various elements aren't going in different directions, but there is a degree of looseness to it. This said, it will work well with vegetable based entrees, for example a spinach sformato or onion frittata, or with grilled or roasted fish.
1 star

Colombaio di Santa Chiara Albereta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with some toffee mingled with greenish accents and spice; there's also a certain airiness to it, but not much in the way of acidity or minerality. On the palate it's ample, and fairly direct, with moderately intense minerality more than fruit -- what fruit there is, mostly citric, feels rather overripe -- supported by some bitterness, which flows into an ample rather bitter finish. It's a bit settled, and with less richness of fruit than I might have liked.
1 star

Rampa di Fugnano

Rampa di Fugnano Alata Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is rich, with considerable minerality laced with some bitter almond and underlying pineapple fruit and heather. Nice balance, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, and rich, with lively lemony fruit that gains richness from brambly peppery accents and is supported by bitterness, which flows into a bitter slightly peppery citric finish. It's a fresh, lively wine, rather like a boisterous teen, and will drink quite well with creamy fish or vegetable based pasta dishes, with grilled or roasted fish, and also with white meats. In short, versatile, and will also go quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Rampa di Fugnano Privato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Brassy gold with brilliant brassy reflections and some greenish highlights. Fairly charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with cedar mingled with sea salt and savory bitterness; there are also some haunting greenish accents and almond blossoms, and as it opens lemony aromas. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with bright tropical fruit - loquat - supported by mineral acidity and dusky smoky bitterness that flows into a clean mineral-savory finish with underlying bitterness and tightly controlled acidity, which does reveal some loquat-citric accents as it fades. Deft, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. It's much more reserved than many of the base wines; in terms of accompaniments, I would think of egg or cheese based antipasti, vegetable based pasta dishes or soups, and also of delicately flavored fish or white meat. Versatile, and I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Rampa di Fugnano Viogniè IGT Bianco Toscana 2007
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeydew melon supported by greenish vegetal accents and some vegetal acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with clean bright lemony fruit supported by loquat acidity and hints of mint that flow into a clean fresh finish with lasting acidity. Quite approachable, and fairly rich, a wine that will work well as an aperitif, or with main course dishes.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola La Lastra
Tel 0577 941 781

Azienda Agricola La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and papery yellow rim. The bouquet is deft, with heather and minerality mingled with some bitter almonds; it brings to mind a granite outcrop somehow. Much minerality, and with more swishing delicate heather also emerges, as do some greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and rich, with brambly citric fruit that's a bit more languid than I expected supported by mineral acdityt and by pleasant savory undertones that flow into a tart fairly savory finish. Pleasant, in a fairly rich youthful key, and will drink well with creamy first course dishes, white meats from sea or land, and will also work well with non-Italian dishes, ranging from eclectic American fusion (built around white meats and vegetables) through Chinese dishes of the Canontese or similar schools. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola La Lastra Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up green almond and some bitterness with underlying spice and sea salt, and some minerality too; as it opens the bitterness becomes gunflint. On the palate it's full, with bright bitter minerality laced with gunflint and white pepper, and supported by tart mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long bitter mineral finish with decidedly sparkly white pepper spice. It's pleasant, and will work well with richly flavored white meats or fish -- salmon and swordfish off the grill come to mind -- and will also age nicely for 5 years at least.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Luigi Cecchi e Figli

Casa Vinicola Luigi Cecchi e Figli Castello Montauto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy white with brassy reflections and very pale greenish highlights. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish bitter almonds mingled with heather and some minerality; with swishing a certain pungency also emerges. On the palate it's not as tight as I expected, with rather languid savory lemon fruit supported by citric acidity that flows into a clean bitter savory citric finish that does tighten up nicely. Pleasant, and versatile; it will drink well with all sorts of things, from creamy pasta dishes through grilled fish or white meats, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. A good summer wine that will also drink nicely in the winter months, and will age nicely for a few years. Worth seeking out.
88-90

Fattoria Abbazia di Monteoliveto

Fattoria Abbazia di Monteoliveto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pappert white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and bitterness mingled with minerality and slight citric acidity. Nice balance, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's softer than I expected, with ample fairly rich minerality supported by savory accents and some mineral acidity that flow into a fairly mineral finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found.
1 star

Fattoria Abbazzia di Monteoliveto La Gentilesca Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and ripe tropical fruit, pineapple to be precise, laced with minerality and some gunflint as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, and again a bit overripe, with tropical fruit laced with greenish accents and warmth, and a fair amount of acidity that flow into a warm savory greenish finish with a fairly strong alcoholic underpinning. It's a bit unbalanced, and I found myself wishing for more fruit and less alcohol.
1 star


Poderi del Paradiso

Poderi del Paradiso Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is lively brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes and gunflint bitterness mingled with warm sour acidity and some brambly accents. Nice balance, and there's something haunting to it. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, with savory accents and underlying bitterness that provide direction, while the acidity is also more mineral than citric, and it flows into a long bitter slightly tannic finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with creamy first course dishes, while it also has the wherewithal to work well with white meats, from land or sea. In short, quite versatile, and will also age well for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Poderi del Paradiso Biscondola Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight lemony highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some bitter almond at the outset, and also a fair amount of gunflint; it brings to mind a hammer-blow to a granitic outcrop, and as it opens unusual hints of well salted grilled pepper also emerge. Interesting and somewhat atypical. On the palate it's ample and languid, with fairly rich loquat fruit that has a slight savory pepper underpinning, and is supported by acidity that is quite strong enough to keep the wine from flagging, but not quite as crisp as I might have hoped, and flows into a fairly long warm finish with a smoky tannic underpinning. The nose is more interesting than the palate, and, as I said, it is rather atypical. This said, if you like the style it will work well as an aperitif with fairly rich antipasti, or with creamy risotti or pasta dishes, or with white meats from land or sea.
2 stars

Poderi del Paradiso Lo Chà IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
This is a Charconnay. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish citric accents mingled with white flowers and dusky spice, also hints of chalk. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, with bright lemony fruit supported by deft citric acidity that flows into a fairly long citric finish. Quite approachable in a simple direct key, and will work well with antipasti, creamy risotti and vegetable based pasta dishes, and similar; it also has the acidity necessary for fried fish or vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cesani Vincenzo

Azienda Agricola Cesani Vincenzo Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Lemony gold with brassy highlights and pale yellow rim. Quite charged looking. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and nettles mingled with greenness and some cut hay; there's also pleasant bitter almond. On the palate it's ample, and quite mineral, in a rather languid key, with direction coming from savory bitterness and some spice, and also from clean mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long mineral finish with a clean bitter underpinning. It will drink well with grilled fish, including more flavorful kinds such as salmon or swordfish, and also with white meats. A bit more powerful than I might want for run-of-the-mill first courses, though something such as kedgeree would be quite nice with it.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Cesani Vincenzo Sanice Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Deep brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and a little atypical, with a degree of sweetness and white fruit, a mixture of banana and some butterscotch toffee supported by slight mint and moderate minerality. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich white berry fruit that gains direction from delicate lemony acidity, and is supported by butterscotch accent as well, which flow into a clean delicate lemony finish. A more graceful, almost willowy expression of Vernaccia that is, I think, oaked, but not heavily. It will work well as an aperitif with fish or cheese based antipasti, and also with delicate fish or white meats. Not quite enough verve for a creamy first course dish.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola San Quirico

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. Pale brassy gold with lively brassy reflections that have some apricot overtones. The bouquet is fairly intense, with almost brambly greenish balsamic notes, and underlying vegetal accents -- greenish bitter almond or peach pit -- and some petroleum as well, and sea salt too. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, with abundant glycerin contributing to the body, and savory mineral acidity that flows into a savory, warm, and fairly balsamic finish that's long and has citric overtones. It's more particular than some, and has something of an old style feeling to it: if you like this in a white wine you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style, which is more balsamic than fresh.
1 star

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2004
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with sour lemon fruit laced with gunflint and mineral acidity, and there is also some honeysuckle and bitter honey -- a nice combination, and graceful too, in a clearly mature key; if you like mature whites it's quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively sour lemon fruit supported by lemony acidity and some savory notes, with underlying bitterness that provides definition and flows into a clean sour citric finish; the overall impression is quite pleasant, and it will drink quite well with foods, though if you're like me you might be tempted to sip it far from the table. Very deft.
88-90

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2003
Lively brassy yellow with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of butterscotch and some spice; it brings to mind the summer sun, and heat. On the palate it's ample, with decidedly savory lemon fruit supported by savory accents and bitterness, as well as some minerality though not much in the way of acidity. It's quite interesting, and the sort of wine a wine lover (read wine geek) will enjoy, because it shows very well how Vernaccia reacts to an extreme -- in this case, the hottest summer in many years. How? Rich ripeness of fruit, coupled with softness and a relative lack of acidity. Interesting, but only for those who are seriously into wine; people who simply want a bottle to drink will be much better off with a more recent vintage.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola San Quirico Spumante Brut IGT Bianco Toscana
Pale greenish white with brassy reflections and fine perlage. The bouquet is moderately intense, with tart apple and savory accents mingled with some greenish notes. Fairly direct. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet -- a bit sweeter than most bruts --with apple fruit laced with some lemony acidity, and supported by creamy sparkle. Direct, up front, and well suited to a toast or drinking with friends when the wine is not the centerpiece of attention.
1 star


Podere La Castellaccia
Podere La Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with iodine, some bitterness, and quite bit of chalk - it brings to mind a blackboard eraser. On the palate it's ample, with rich lemon and citron fruit supported by citron acidity and slight greenish accents, which flow into a long citron laced finish with some underlying bitterness. It's laxer than many, and if you like tighter, better defined wines you will perhaps not like it. If you instead prefer a more languid style -- there's quite a bit of acidity, quite enough to keep it from being settled -- it will work well with creamy risotti, white meats from sea or land, and also has sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats or fish and vegetables. In short, a fairly versatile wine in a larger key, and one that will be nice in the summer months as well.
2 stars

Podere la Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy white with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish accents and hints of scalded milk mingled with almond and the heather of a Tuscan field, and also underlying mineral acidity. Nice balance and quite welcoming. On the palate it's rich, with lively lemony fruit supported by brisk lemon-citron acidity and by some savory accents, which flow into a long citron finish. Quite pleasant, and will work well with succulent grilled or roasted fish, and also be a good bet with fried meats and vegetables in the summer months. A little too brightly acidic for creamy dishes, I think, but in the proper setting it will be perfect.
90

Podere La Castellaccia Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2006
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with bright minerality supported by greenish almond and peach pit accents, and by slightly candied citron acidity. Nice balance, and it has quite a bit to say. On the palate it's rich, with lively lemon fruit supported by brisk slightly bitter citron acidity that flows into a long clean citron finish with underlying greenish bitterness. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with rich foods, ranging from creamy risotti through fried meats or fish and vegetables. In short, a vino a tutto pasto, a wine for the whole meal, and it will also age nicely for 5-8 years
88-90

Azienda Agricola Signano
Azienda Agricola Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish heather and green apricot laced with some bitter almond and peach pit. Nice balance in a rather austere key. On the palate it's ample, with bright lemony fruit that gains direction from lemony citron acidity, and is supported by clean bright minerality, with some underlying bitterness, which flow into a long clean slightly bitter finish. A sunny wine that will drink very well with foods, and work with a variety of things, from creamy pasta and rice dishes through vegetable flans and soufflés, and on through white meats. Versatile, and you may find yourself wanting a second bottle. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Signano Poggiarelli Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with apricot laced reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with lemony accents mingled with greenish heather and hints of scalded milk, with underlying bitterness that's more peach pit than gunflint at present. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by peppery bitterness and by clean lemony acidity that flows into a fairly long slightly bitter lemony finish with greenish overtones. It's pleasant, in a charged key, and will drink nicely now with succulent grilled or roasted fish or white meats, and will also work well with fried meats or fish, though it you have the patience to give it 3-5 years, I think it could do interesting things.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Signano Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2006
Brassy gold with brassy orange reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents mingled with butterscotch and some cedar, and warmth as well, while there are floral accents that bring a mature Moscato to mind, and also some scalded milk. On the palate it's fairly ric, with bright loquat fruit supported by greenish lemony acidity and by some bitterness and sea salt that flow into a clean bright bitter finish with sour lemon underpinning. A pleasant, mature wine that will drink well with flavorful fish or white meats.
2 stars

Cappella di Sant'Andrea

Cappella di Sant'Andrea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up greenish accents and bitter almond nutmeats mingled with heather and citron acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter citron fruit supported by minerality and some bitterness with savory accents that flows into a clean savory citron finish with underlying gunflint minerality that's fairly long. A good, rather powerful food wine that will work well with flavorful dishes, ranging from grilled salmon through fried meats and vegetables, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cappella di Sant'Andrea Rialto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and some greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, and smoky, with heather and brambly slightly balsamic vegetal notes mingled with bitterness and spice; there are also hops in the mix, which I associate more with an IPA (India pale ale), but work nicely here too. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint bitterness and bright citron acidity that flow into a clean finish that's fairly long, gradually fading into greenish cedary bitterness. It will work well now with flavorful, creamy dishes -- risotto and pasta are obvious, but, but Welch rarebit also comes to mind -- as well as creamy whit meats or fish, and it will also work well with cried meats and vegetables. In short, versatile in a powerful key, and it will also age well for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Fattoria Pietrafitta

Fattoria Pietrafitta Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with honeydew melon mingled with greenish accents and bitter almonds, and as it opens some heather as well. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with fairly rich languid lemon-citron fruit supported by bitterness and greenish accents, with some almost peppery bitterness and savory underpinning as well. It's pleasant, though in a softer key, and if you like tighter, better defined whites it won't work as well for you. If you do like the style, it will be nice with creamy pasta or rice dishes, and also with vegetable based second course dishes. A touch less tight than I'd want for meats, however.
1 star

Fattoria Pietrafitta Borghetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents -- honeysuckle and some sea salt -- supported by hints of mint and bramble, and some greenish notes as well, and some citrus. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich languid citrus fruit laced with bitterness and minerality that flows into a clean tart rather greenish mineral finish with some gunflint bitterness. It gives an impression of having been harvested quite ripe, but not before acidity fell, and is pleasant to sip and to sniff.
2 stars

Fattoria Pietrafitta la Costa Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva DOCG 2007
Brassy yellow with bright brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is unusual, with sweet minty honeydew melon laced with floral accents -- it brings to mind a Moscato -- and some underlying minerality. Quite distinct from the other wines tasted, and pleasant, but atypical; with swishing herbal accents become stronger, with some bitter almond, but the overall imprint remains the same. On the palate it's bright, with rich loquat fruit supported by bitter minerality and mineral acidity that flows into a fairly long rather tropical finish -pineapple- with underlying bitterness that also displays floral accents I usually associate with Malvasia. It's pleasant, though very much in its own world with respect to the other Vernacce, and if you like the style, which is fairly opulent, fruit driven, and dry, you will enjoy it. If you're of more traditional tastes it won't work as well for you. In short, particular.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola il Lebbio

Azienda Agricola il Lebbio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and pale yellow rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up greenish notes mingled with green apricot acidity and bitter almond and peach pit nutmeats. Still quite young. On the palate it's bright, with rich slightly brambly lemony citron fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a certain peach pit to them, and by hints of bramble and balsam that work into a warm rather bitter citron-laced finish. Pleasant, and will complement the foods it's served with; it will work well with flavorful fish, and because of the bitterness I'm tempted to say oysters too, and also with rich white meats, in particular fried foods. It will contribute mightily to either chicken (or rabbit) or fish, and I'd even be tempted o serve it with fried lamb chops.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Il Lebbio Tropie Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish heather mingled with peach pit bitterness and some green apricot acidity, and also with some sea salt and a fair amount of alcohol. It's quite young, but promises nicely. On the palate it's ample, with considerable bitterness supported by peppery minerality and some spice, which flow into a clean bitter peppery finish with underlying gunflint. Again quite young; one could give it 2-4 years, or drink it now with creamy pasta dishes or risotti, or with fish, and I would be tempted by either oysters or scampi. Expect it to grow with time.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Il Lebbio Malvasia IGT Bianco Toscana 2007
Clear glass bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with citron and greenish vegetal accents mingled with alcohol and some spice. On the palate it's ample, though not as bright as I had expected; there's moderately intense citric fruit overlain by minerality and peppery spice, and the overall impression is a bit settled.
1 star

Montenidoli

Montenidoli Vernaccia Tradizionale Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Brassy gold with brassy golden reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and invites thought, with greenish accents mingled with heather and some nettles, and as it opens sour lemon. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense brambly sour lemon fruit supported by brambly acidity and a fair amount of underlying bitterness that flows into a sour slightly bitter lemon finish with raspy savory tannins from grapes and peppery overtones. It's still coming together and needs another year for the pieces to fall completely into place; this said it's pleasant enough in a fairly alcoholic, strongly extracted key. In short, particular, if you like the style, which draws heavily on concentration, you will like it. If you are more attracted to finesse, you will like it less, though you will still find things to ponder. Because of its power it will work best with flavorful fish or white meats -- I could see it with a curry, for example -- and will also be a good bet with fried foods. Expect it to age nicely for at least 3-5 years.
2 stars

Montenidoli Fiore Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite young, with greenish accents and bitter almond laced with some minerality; it gives an impression of being in mid-stride. On the palate it's ample and quite fresh, with fairly rich lemony loquat fruit supported by moderate mineral citric acidity, and by ample rather smoky bitterness with an raspy tannic underpinning that flows into a long brooding bitter tart finish. It's still up in the air, and needs another year at least for the pieces to settle into place. When they do it will be impressive; as it stands today it's like trying to judge a toddler -- this is a problem one encounters more often with reds than whites, but has happened here. This said, it is (quite) drinkable, already, and will work well with succulent white meats from the sea or the land, especially richer, creamier dishes, and I would be tempted to serve it with spiced dishes as well, including curries. Something to enjoy, or to set aside.
2 stars

Montenidoli Carato Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2005
Brassy yellow with brassy golden reflections and pale yellow rim. It's clearly not a 2008, but not as dark as some of the other older wines. The bouquet is delicate, with deft bitter almond supported by some butterscotch and pleasant underlying minerality, while alcohol also provides a nice counterpoint. Quite a bit to say, and very deft wood use, which complements more than overshadowing the grapes. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful lemony fruit laced with minerality and supported by clean deft butterscotch and some cedary bitterness, which flow into a clean bright bitter almond mineral finish that lasts and lasts. Very nice, with a beautiful interplay of acidity and minerality, and will work very well as an aperitif or with elegant fish dishes; I would also be tempted to serve it with white meats, deftly and delicately seasoned so as to not distract from the wine. It will also age nicely for at least 5 years.
90


Teruzzi & Puthod Tenute Sella & Mosca

Teruzzi & Puthod Tenute Sella & Mosca Vigna a Rondolino Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Clear bottle. The wine is pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slightly greenish brassy highlights fading to white at the rim. The bouquet is rich, with heather and bitter almond laced with some gunflint and peach pit greenness with underlying minerality that brings to mind a hammer-blow to a granitic outcrop (I studied geology at one time). Nice balance, and interesting. On the palate it's ample, with bright, rich citron fruit supported by clean bitterness laced citron acidity and a fair amount of minerality, while the finish is long and tart with a clean greenish underpinning with a fair amount of gunflint bitterness. Quite pleasant, in a rich, powerful key, and while it will age nicely for 3-5 years at least, it will also drink nicely now with succulent grilled white meats or fish
88-90

Teruzzi e Puthod Tenute Sella e Mosca Terre di Tufi IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and gooseberry mingled with some acidity and minerality, and underlying greenish accents and heather. On the palate it's bright, with lively lemony fruit supported by clean sour lemon acidity and some greenish notes that flow into a tart citric finish. Direct, and pleasant, an approachable food wine that will drink well with antipasti, fish, or meat.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Palagio

Fattoria Il Palagio Le Ginestrelle Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Brassy yellow with greenish highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fresh, young and intense, with a fair amount of alcohol, greenish almond skin accents, white pepper, and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality and some underlying sour lemon acidity, also a slight metallic tang, and it flows into a warm sour finish with moderately sour lemon and minerality. Direct, and up front in a slightly muscle-bound key; it will drink well with fish, egg or cheese based antipasti and also be nice with fish or vegetable based pasta or risotto; it has the acidity and minerality to work well with fried meats or fish and vegetables as well.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Palagio Melaia Sauvignon Blanc IGT Bianco Toscana 2008
Pale brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with gooseberry and a certain airiness, the combination of which brings a sweaty blonde to mind (don't ask), also some vegetal accents and spice. Nice balance and interesting. On the palate it's full, with rich rather languid white berry fruit supported by peppery acidity that has vegetal accents, and flows into a clean tart peppery finish. Pleasant, in an up front and quite approachable key; it will work well as an aperitif with egg or cheese based antipasti, and will also work quite well with all sorts of main dishes, from creamy risotti through fish zesty flavorful fish. You may want a second bottle, and it's worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Villa Lucia

Azienda Agricola Villa Lucia Vivaio Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2007
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with caramel and greenish crushed peach pit battling, and very green apricot acidity providing support, while there is also a fair amount of alcohol, and as it opens some heather and hints of banana peel. It's one of the more obviously oaky wines poured, and the interaction between Vernaccia's bitter almond and oak's cedar and vanilla is something you will like or not. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich minerality laced with savory accents and warm cedar that flow into a long warm savory finish. Nice control and depth, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, because it has a fair amount to say. But you have to like the style; it will drink well with flavorful, not too fatty fish, or with vegetarian entrees that aren't too boisterous.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rubicini
Tel 0577 944 816

Azienda Agricola Rubiconi Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with citric accents -- more citron than lemon -- supported by greenish brambly spice and some savory notes as well that add a haunting quality o it. Nice balance. On the palate it's rich, with lively citron fruit that gains support from some bitter almond bitterness, and from slightly brambly tannins that flow into a clean bright citric finish with savory underpinning. It's, well, the word enthusiastic comes to mind, and it will drink quite well with flavorful entrees, ranfing from grilled salmon or tuna fish though fried chicken with fried vegetables, and it will also age nicely for a number of years. Powerful but well defined. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rubicini Etherea Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG 2008
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, and decidedly mineral, with some smoky accents and hints of bramble as well. On the palate it's decidedly mineral, with powerful mineral acidity supported by some bitterness, and by savory mineral acidity that flows into a clean fairly fresh, bright savory finish that's long. And has some smoky accents. A pleasant wine that will drink well with fish or cheese based antipasti, and will also work well with fish dishes, ranging from pasta and risotto through grilled. It will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Rubicini Horos Vendemmia Tardiva IGT Bianco Toscana 2006
Brassy gold with greenish accents and reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with hints of sweetness mingled with heather and some lactic acid, also hints of dried apricot and slight butterscotch. On the palate it's ample and sweet, with fairly bright loquat fruit laced with bitter greenness and supported by deft loquat acidity, while the finish is clean and tempers sweetness with some bitter accents. It's pleasant enough, though to be quite honest I didn't find it as interesting as I might find a Vinsanto. A different expression of San Gimignano's Vernaccia, and interesting (to me as a wine lover) because it's different, but I think there are other grapes better suited to this technique.
2 stars

A bit more about San Gimignano and Vernaccia di San Gimignano:

The Consorzio della Denominazione San Gimignano's Site
A Vernaccia Vertical: An extraordinary day at Montenidoli
Thoughts about older Italian whites in general

And finally:
La Città delle Belle Torri, An Itinerary of San Gimignano

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Villa Franciacorta Satèn: A Vertical

Satèn is Franciacorta's reply to Champagne's Crémant, a softer, more seductive sparkling wine initially developed by Cà del Bosco and Bellavista (they allowed all to use the term after the French were given rights to Crémant) to attract those who might be put off by drier sparkling wines such as Brut or Pas Dosé. As such one might expect it to be less interesting than its drier cousins. And in some cases it is.

But not as many as one might think, however, because it quickly became quite popular, and Franciacorta's sharper producers realized it had become one of their most important calling cards, a way to get people to try their wines, and then (hopefully) move up the scale towards their top bubbly. One doesn't stint with a calling card, and when Villa's Alessandro Bianchi decided to introduce his Satèn in 1995, he didn't cut corners in the slightest.

What he did do was favor approachability over complexity and depth, because at the time the Italian taste for sparkling wines was much less sophisticated than it is now. We will get to the 95 presently, because the vertical was for a general audience, and started with the youngest wine:

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2005
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense persistent perlage. Rich nose, with some breadcrumbs, moist spice, savory accents and minerality. It seems quite soft, and is still developing. On the palate it's rich, with elegant minerality supported by gunflint bitterness and savory accents, with slight pepper from the sparkle, and flows into a clean bright savory finish. Considerable depth and more complex than many Satèns I've tasted; it will be a good aperitif, and offers an excellent introduction to Satèn if you have never tried it. There's a touch more acidity than in some years, because 2005 was a cool summer. Quite graceful.
89-91

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2004
Pale brassy yellow with fine intense persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, with deft spice and breadcrumbs laced with clean freshness, tart mineral acidity, and some gunflint. Quite nice, with excellent balance; it's richer than the 05, and this is in part the vintage and in part greater age. On the palate it's fresh with clean bright savory accents and more structure than the 05; it's supported by clean savory acidity and sparkle, whose softness confers the creaminess typical of Satèn and flows into a clean savory finish with some bitter accents. Very pleasant, and will work beautifully as an aperitif or at table. Impressive.
92-93

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2003
The wine is a richer brassy gold than some, and this is because of the long, hot 2003 summer; there's fine, intense, bubbly perlage. The bouquet is full and fresh, with minerality and hints of sweetness mingled with sea salt, spice, and slight breadcrumbs, with underlying vegetal notes and tart acidity laced with softness. It's richer and riper than the others, again because of the summer, but not excruciatingly ripe. On the palate it's ample, rich, and full, with minerality and gunflint bitterness supported by sparkle and some savory accents; there's less acidity and this makes it softer. Good, but less interesting than this is the vintage at work.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2002
2003's mirror image, the child of a cold wet summer. Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is intense, with breadcrumbs and minerality mingled with acidity and some greenish gunflint accents. More mature than those preceding it, and also much livelier, with more depth and zest -- a brilliant wine, that also reveals honey and walnut skins. On the palate it's bright, with rich lemony fruit supported by sea salt and bright acidity, with some walnut skin bitterness, and sparkle that confers creaminess. Quite nice, rich, lively, and deft. They say sparkling wines shine in cool vintages because they have more acidity, and this vintage certainly confirms the saying. Beautiful freshness and youth, too.
93-4

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2001
Brassy gold with brassy reflections and abundant persistent perlage. The bouquet is elegant, and mature, with rich savory breadcrumbs and spice mingled with some walnut rind bitterness -- what is called mallo in Italian -- and some gunflint. Quite a bit going on, and quite elegant. On the palate it's full, rich, and powerful, with savory minerality supported by walnut-laced sour lemon acidity and clean peppery spice, while the sparkle again confers creaminess that flows into a long bitter finish supported by deft acidity. Quite elegant, and has quite a bit to say, with a nice balance between acidity and savory, and has aged very well. It is approachable, but also displays considerable depth, and will work equally well as an aperitif or at table. An impressive wine that is mature, and anything but tired.
90-92

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 2000
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and fine intense persistent perlage. The bouquet is fairly rich in a softer key -- August 2000 was searingly hot -- with minerality and some gunflint but less acidity; there are also some tertiary aromas, including greenish walnut skin. Nice depth, and elegant albeit in a softer hot summer key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with minerality and savory notes supported by bitterness and sparkle; it's softer, and the heat of the vintage comes through in the relatively lesser acidity, and as a result it comes across as flatter than the others. Quite approachable in any case.
2 stars

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1999
Pale brassy gold with fine intense persistent perlage. Mature colors; there's more gold to it. The bouquet is rich, with deft breadcrumbs and bitterness supported by chestnut honey and some greenish accents, also walnut rind. Impressive and quite elegant; there aren't many 10-year old Satèns at this level. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright mature lemony fruit supported by walnut skin bitterness and clean fresh creamy sparkle that flow into a pleasant rather bitter finish. It's graceful, deftly balancing minerality and acidity, with a lot to say. Impressive.
92-3

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1998
Brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is rich, and elegant, with clean spice, minerality, and some savory balsamic notes. Quite harmonious with acidity and minerality plying off each other. On the palate it's full, and rich, and sweeter than the younger vintages, and this is because of a course correction -- the initial vintages of Satèn were intentionally sweeter and softer to appeal to the tastes of Italian wine drinkers of the time -- there's clean bright slightly savory citrus fruit supported by deft acidity that flows into a clean savory finish with some balsamic accents. Graceful, and has a lot to say; it has held up quite well and will continue to age well for years to come. It's more approachable and softer than the younger vintages, with a fine balance between bitterness and acidity.
91-93

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1996
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy golden reflections and fine persistent perlage. The bouquet is intense, with breadcrumbs and wet bread supported by greenish accents, walnut rind, and some gunflint, with underlying balsamic accents. On the palate it's a bit duskier than the younger vintages, ample, soft, and quite approachable, with a deft balance between sweetness and sparkle; it's a classic and very approachable Satèn, and is what one expects of the wine: while it is pleasant (and better on palate than nose), it's not as interesting as some of the more recent vintages that have a defter acid balance, and this is why Villa's Satèn has evolved. This said, hats off; it is a fine wine that laid the groundwork for the vintages that followed.
88-90

Villa Franciacorta Satèn DOCG 1995
This was their first Satèn, and as such is not quite an experiment, but almost. Brassy gold with fine persistent perlage, and a rich bouquet with minerality and spice, coupled with savory accents. It comes across as rather soft, but is quite elegant, a study of harmony. Quite nice, and I would certainly never have guessed it was 14 years old. On the palate it's full, rich, and savory, with clean bright white fruit supported by savory accents and sweetness, while the sparkle provides creaminess, and the whole is beautifully balanced. A most auspicious launch for a wine, and though some of the other wines were perhaps better, it offers much room for thought. I see, in my notes, the word "superlative."
90-92

Winding down, it was a most impressive tasting, which clearly showed how the wine developed, gaining complexity and depth from vintage to vintage, and following a path that is in some respects more interesting than those traced by other sorts of Franciacorta, for example Brut.

Villa's Franciacorta Selezione Brut: Another Vertical, and a more thorough presentation of Alessandro Bianchi and his winery.

Villa's Site

Thursday, September 10, 2009

The 2006 Roero, Tasted at Alba Wines

This Year's Alba Wines began on May 11, and as always we began by tasting Roero, the Nebbiolo-based wine made downstream of Alba, on the hills overlooking the left bank of the Tanaro river, facing the Barbaresco production area.

I confess that I continue to have the same impression of the wine that I have in the past: That Roero has yet to decide what it really wants to be. Because of the sandier nature of Roero's terrains, the Nebbiolo grown there tends to yield wines with richer, more delicate bouquets, but less power than those from Barolo or Barbaresco.

Of course, the grape is only half the equation. There is also the winemaker, and because of the characteristics of the Nebbiolo, their stylistic preferences -- a preference for grace and finesse on the one hand, or power and structure on the other -- are more apparent than they are in either Barolo or Barbaresco. 2006 was a fine vintage, giving those of both schools considerable material to work with, and there are good wines across the spectrum. But one does have to select with care to match one's palate with the winemaker's. Most of the Roero we tasted -- 15 wines -- were 2006. There were also a few bottles of 2005 Roero Riserva, which were considerably weaker, and this is attributable to the weakness of the 2005 vintage.

Finally, in the course of the afternoons thoughout Alba Wines producers poured their 1999 vintages, and you will find the notes from the 1999 Roeri I tasted here.

Careglio
Baldissera D'Alba Località Aprato 15
Tel 0172 40436

Careglio Roero DOCG 2006
Garnet with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and vinous, with cherry and rosa canina supported by fairly brisk tart brambly acidity, and some hints of leaf tobacco and mentholated spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by tannins that have a youthful burr and glow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's quite young, but will drink well with simple grilled meats and light stews. Fairly traditional in style, with bright brash aggressiveness and some greenness to it. Will age nicely too, 8-10 years
2 stars

Cornarea
Cornarea Roero DOCG 2006
Dusky almandine with brownish reflections, looks older than it is. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with Moroccan leather and wet clay. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather languid, with brighter sour cherry fruit than I expected, supported by smooth rather voluptuous tannins that flow into a clean tart cherry raspberry finish. It's in mid-stride, and needs a couple of years to figure out where it's going.
1 star

Monchiero Carbone
Monchiero Carbone Sru Roero DOCG 2006
Deep brownish almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and alcohol, also some cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied tending to full and very young, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by sour brambly acidity and tannins that have a warm slightly dusky burr and flow into a long savory finish. It's pleasant in a fairly direct up front key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews. I would drink it sooner than later, because one of its strong points is its freshness.
1 star

Monchiero Carbone Printi Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Black almandine with black reflections. It's like sniffing a cedar chest; some green, abundant cedar, and petroleum, which in this case is another manifestation of cedar. On the palate it's ample, with considerable cedary bitterness, some minerality, and not much in the way of fruit; the finish is gain cedar laced and bitter.
1 star

Tasted in the afternoon:
Monchiero Carbone Printi Roero 1999
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory balsamic notes and spice mingled with some dried roses and a fair amount of nutmeg. Mature, and pleasant. On the palate it's full, with rich savory balsamic fruit supported by tannins that have a bright savory burr and flow into a clean fairly rich balsamic finish. It will work quite well with succulent roasts or stews, and also with furred game.
2 stars

Porello Marco
Porello Marco Torretta Roero DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with pleasing red berry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by some greenish vegetal accents; nice balance in a cheeky youthful key. On the palate I's full, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit that gains direction from lively raspberry acidity and is supported by clean tannins that have a warm bitter underpinning and flow into a long rather bitter finish. Cheeky, in a scrappy tomboyish key; will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to age well or (now) work with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the more aggressive traditional style you'll like it. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Matteo Correggia
Matteo Correggia Roero DOCG 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with rosa canina and some leather and underbrush underlying delicate berry fruit. Nice balance. On the palate it's direct, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by savory greenish accents and by a bitter leafy tannic underpinning that brings chestnut leaves to mind, and flows into a rather bitter finish. It's direct, and a little more settled than I might have liked; though it will age nicely, becoming lacy with time. In short, a wine that won't excite (me) now, but may well do interesting things with time. In 5 years the picture will be very different.
2 stars

Cascina Chicco
Cascina Chicco Montespinato Roero DOCG 2006
Elegant almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is quite elegant, and absolutely typical, with rich rosa canina laced with saddle leather and berry fruit. Very nice, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full and rather languid, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a velvety feel underlain by steel, and flow into a long clean slightly tannic finish with lasting warmth and oak leaf bitterness. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent meats now, though I would be tempted to hold the wine for 5-10 years, because it's at the beginning of an interesting journey.
88-90

Cascina Chicco Valmaggiore Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with considerable cedar, alcohol, and moderate fruit. The vintage. On the palate it's smoky, with moderate fruit supported by bitter mineral acidity and spice, but not much richness.
1 star

Tasted in the Afternoon:
Cascina Chicco Valmaggiore 1999
Deep almandine with blackish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly mature, with leaf tobacco and balsamic spice, savory accents, and some bitterness. Robust and invites further sniffing. On the palate it's full, perhaps overfull even - it lumbers some, like a big person who's trying to be deft - rich, and savory, with leaf tobacco and a fair amount of acidity supported by smooth savory tannins that display a warm burr, and flow into a savory tannic finish. I found it lumbering.
2 stars

Ponchione Maurizio
Ponchione Maurizio Monfrini Roero DOCG 2006
Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by menthol and eucalyptus, and some cedar as well. Charged, and very young, but holds together. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by some mineral acidity and by tannins that have a cedary imprint that gradually covers all else, resolving into cedary bitterness. It's heavily oaked and has yet to digest the oak it was fed. It may with time, but only time will tell. I would in any case give it a couple of years.
1 star

Almondo Giovanni
Almondo Giovanni Bric Valdiana Roero DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with greenish cedar and spice supported by considerable bitterness, but not much fruit. On the palate it's fill, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by some acidity, and by ample fairly lax cedary tannins that flow into a long rather bitter finish. I'd have liked more richness; it was fed a lot of oak and is like a toddler with a belly ache. Not happy, and I'm not sure how it will turn out. But trying too hard to be a bigger wine than it is.
1 star

Negro Angelo e Figli
Negro Angelo e Figli Prachiosso Roero DOCG 2006
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich in a slightly rustic key, with an intriguing (for me) mixture of lathered horse and red berry fruit supported by green leather and savory accents. On the palate it's fairly full, with graceful red berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and will become moreso with time, flowing into a clean warm slightly acidic finish that's moderately long. Fairly direct now, but it's in mid stride, and will emerge much more interesting than it is now in 3-5 years. I would give it the time, because I think it could do something interesting.
2 stars

Negro Angelo e Figli Sudisfà Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is rustic, with stable straw and wet horse. Animal. On the palate it's moderately rich, with savory berry fruit supported by spice and bitterness, while the tannins are laced with sea salt and bitterness, and flow into a decidedly savory finish. The grapes lacked sun and sucked the minerals from the earth; it's interesting, though a wine more for the curious wine lover (read wine geek) than for those who look for fruit and concentration. In short, particular, and only for certain people. I found it interesting, but I am one of those certain people, and if you are too you will likely find it has much to say.
1 star

Tasted in the Afternoon:
Negro Angelo & Figli Sudisfà Roero 1999
Elegant almandine with brownish reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is brisk, with balsamic acidity and saddle leather mingled with savory accents and some spice. Nice balance and quite a bit to say; it's one of those wines one sniffs and sniffs again. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly bright, with savory berry fruit supported by leaf tobacco and underbrush, which gain depth from sea salt and minerality, while the tannins are clean and smooth, and flow into a clean savory finish. You have to like the style to drink it far from the table (I would), but it will offer wine lovers of all stripes much to think about when served with a succulent roast or stew.
88-90

Cascina Val del Prete
Via Santuario 2, Priocca (CN)
Tel 0173 616 624

Cascina Val del Prete Roero DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violet-laced cherry fruit supported by green leather and spice, with some cedar as well. Very young, and clearly still developing, though pleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, with a degree of velvet that shows through a youthful burr, and flow into a clean slightly green tannic finish. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age well for up to a decade. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Cascina Val del Prete Bricco Medica Roero DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with greenish berry fruit supported by fairly rich spice and some chestnut leaf bitterness that resolves into cedar with more swishing. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderate fruit supported by slight acidity and cedar laced tannins that stand out and gradually flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. It's quite oaky, and to be frank I doubt it will ever completely digest the oak; the fruit isn't up to the task.
1 star

Tasted in the Afternoon:
Cascina Val del Prete Roero 1999
Almandine with brownish rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dried flowers mingled with savory balsamic notes and coca, with underlying leaf tobacco and underbrush. Nice balance, and though oak is evident it works well, complementing rather than overshadow. On the palate it's full, with rich sour berry fruit supported by savory notes and leathery acidity that flows into a long warm leathery finish with graceful berry fruit acidity. Pleasant, and will drink well with foods; it's a fine expression of Roero in a modern oak-laced key, and even if you are traditionally minded you will find things to like about it.
88-90

F.lli Rabino
Santa Vittoria D'Alba, Via Rolfi 5 (CN)
Tel 0172 478 045

F.lli Rabino Roero DOCG 2006
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing does bring up some sour berry fruit with greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's brighter than the nose would suggest, with fairly intense sour cherry fruit supported by bitter brambly acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr to them, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It needs time, another couple of years, by which point it will clean up nicely in a fairly traditional key, and age well for at least 5-8 more. I would give it time, because it's really not ready yet, and will do interesting things.
2 stars

Giacomo Vico
Giacomo Vico Roero DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bitter accents and some green leather mingled with savory spice and some cedar, supported by a fair amount of alcohol as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by clean deft acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a clean deft finish. It's pleasant, and honest, a wine that displays lithe grace and doesn't try to be bigger or more muscular than it is -- more about finesse than power, and though very young will go places and will be interesting to follow. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tasted in the Afternoon:
Giacomo Vico Roero Superiore 1999
From a Magnum. Inky ruby with brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol and dried plum fruit mingled with deft spice and underlying balsamic accents. Pleasant in a mature key. On the palate it's full, with rich elegant savory berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long rather bitter finish. Impressive, and even if you prefer smoother, softer international wines you will find things to like about it. If you're a traditionalist, you'd do well to seek it out.
92


Cantina del Nebbiolo
Cantina del Nebbiolo Roero DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with savory spice mingled with smoke and a fair amount of minerality; there's also some green leather, but not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright mineral acidity and tannins that have a slightly metallic tang to them, but, again, not much fruit; a second bottle is not metallic, but decidedly mineral on the palate, and I'd have expected more fruit than I found.
1 star

Cascina Cà Rossa
Cascina Cà Rossa Audinaggio Roero DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice and some warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that has a bitter underpinning, and is supported by mineral acidity and fairly bright youthful tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, in a bright youthful key, and will dirnk well with simple grilled meats or light stews; I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Cascina Cà Rossa Mompissano Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green leather and warmth supported by spice. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate fruit supported by warm mineral acidity and fairly bright tannins that flow into a long warm tannic finish. A child of the vintage, with warmth and acidity and wood doing more than fruit.
1 star

Afternoon tastings:
Cascina Cà Rossa Audinaggio Roero 1999
Elegant black almandine with brown reflections and rim. The nose is mature, with Moroccan leather and savory spice supported by dried fruit - prunes and some dried orange peel - and a fair amount of alcohol. Quite a bit to say. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with savory berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean savory tannins that flow into a fairly bright savory finish. I found the nose more impressive than the palate, which is a bit clumsy.
2 stars

Malabaila di Canale
Malabaila di Canale Castelletto Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with fairly bright green leather and warmth, also cedar and wet leaves, but not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with richer than expected sour cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by fairly sweet tannins that do have a splintery burr, and flow into a clean tannic finish. Pleasant in a lesser vintage key, and will become rather graceful in an ethereal way with time. Worth seeking out if you like the style, which is fairly traditional.
2 stars

Tasted in the Afternoon:
Malabaila di Canale Castelletto Roero Superiore 1999
Deep slightly leathery almandine ruby. The bouquet is powerful, with mentholated leather and some leaf tobacco supported by abundant savory alcohol and spice. Nice balance in a mature key. On the palate it's full, with rich dried cherry fruit overlain by dried flowers and savory spice, which flows into a clean fairly dry savory finish. Elegant, and though clearly Nebbiolo it's just as clearly not Barolo; it's more of a food wine than a meditation wine, and will work magic with hearty, succulent roasts or grilled meats.
2 stars

Malvirà
Malvirà Trinità Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright vegetal berry fruit supported by warmth and alcohol, with pleasant spice as well. On the palate it's moderately intense, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by greenish acidity and spice. It's a bit disjointed, and going in several directions at once.
1 star

Malvirà Mombeltramo Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The nose is dusky, with cedar and some greenish berry fruit; fairly rich but cedar leading the way. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by tart warmth and cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly bright finish. It's pleasant, in a lesser vintage key, and a nice expression of same, though in a better vintage the wine will be much more interesting.
1 star

Afternoon Tasting:
Malvirà Mombeltramo Roero Superiore1999
Almandine with black-brown reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with mentholated spice laced with nutmeg and sea salt, and some hardwood ash as well. Nice balance, and mature. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright leathery berry fruit supported by deft acidity and warm splintery tannins that flow into a lasting warm finish. It's more of a food wine than a meditation wine,a nd will work well with roasted or stewed red meats.
2 stars

Pace
Canale - Frazione Madonna di Loreto Cascina Pace 52
Tel 0173 979 544

Pace Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is, well, interesting, with, well, sweaty aromas that I can accept in a Sauvignon, but don't expect to find in a Nebbiolo. It's suffering the vintage. On the palate it's fairly bright, with bitter savory fruit supported by deft acidity and warm splintery tannins that flow into a clean bitter finish. A child of an adverse vintage.
1 star

Taliano Michele
Taliano Michele Ròcche Dra Bassora Roero Riserva DOCG 2005
Black almandine with black reflections; a fellow taster talks about chocolate on the nose, but I find more dried chestnut leaves and bitterness, with savory notes and alcohol. Not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose; there's moderate fruit and considerably more savory tannic underpinning that flows into a savory finish.
1 star