Chianti Colli Fiorentini: The 2010 Vintage Presentation

To Begin, Some Background:

In 1924 the Chianti Classico Appellation came into being, when a group of 33 producers banded together and established the Consorzio del Gallo Nero, whose symbol was a black rooster: Only those whose vineyards fell within the area could join, and only if they met rigorous standards (first of which, the wine had to be red). Members of the Consorzio del Gallo Nero (now Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico) were allowed to call their wines Chianti Classico, while the word Chianti came to mean everything else, and was represented by a Consorzio called Chianti Putto, which was established in 1927.

The Chianti Putto zone was huge, and with time a number of more restricted Appellations were also established: the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Appellation, which dates to 1994 -- as one might expect -- surrounds Florence. It's fairly large, resembling an upside-down horseshoe, and also quite variable, with parts bordering Chianti Classico, and others either extending into the Val D'Arno or up into the mountains behind Fiesole (see the map at http://www.chianti-collifiorentini.it/territorio.php).

In terms of composition and production, the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Disciplinare allows producers considerable latitude: the wine must be at least 75% Sangiovese. They can use more Sangiovese, up to 100% if they want, but can also add autochthonous red varietals such as Colorino or Canaiolo (max 10% of the latter), up to 10% white varietals such as Trebbiano or Malvasia Bianca (this is a break with Chainti Classico, which has banned them), and up to 20% of the international varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet or Syrah (10% of a given varietal). Wood use is also up to the producer and varies considerably; some use small wood, others large, and still others cement vats or steel tanks.

One important difference between Chianti tout court and Chianti Colli Fiorentini is the release date: whereas Chianti can be released on the first day of March, just a few months after the harvest, Chianti Colli Fiorentini must be held until September 1. The additional aging brings considerably greater maturity and complexity to the wines.

Of the 40 wineries belonging to the Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentini 28 bottle their wines, and of these 28 13 presented their wines at the vintage presentation held in Palazzo Pitti's Limonaia this fall. The tasting was conducted by Franco Ziliani, who arranged the Vini D'Annata in order from lightest and most suited to quaffing to most substantial, which makes good sense if one thinks about it, and after we finished with the Vini D'Annata I tasted through the Riserve too. It was a pleasant morning, and I found a number of wines I enjoyed.

As I noted last year, Good Chianti Colli Fiorentini (the volume of which increases yearly) is quite nice. It also represents an excellent value for money because, as a general rule, Chianti Colli Fiorentini is less expensive than some of the other better known central Tuscan appellations.

The Wines

Azienda Agricola Lanciola

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This has some Cabernet and Merlot added to the Sangiovese, which is 90%; aged in botti and steel. Pale cherry ruby with some orange in it. Quite light. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with vegetal notes and powerful sour cherry with slight underbrush. Quite clean, and pleasant savory sea salt too; a fellow taster finds iris blossoms. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright slightly greenish cherry fruit supported by clean brambly mineral acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr; it's a little more powerful on the palate than the nose suggested, but nicely balanced, and flow into a clean brambly finish with pleasant mineral undertones. It's a food wine, which will work very well with meat based pasta dishes, grilled meats, and light stews.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2006
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and deft slightly balsamic acidity, and by some brambly accents. On the palate it's medium bodied, and light on its toes, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. Pleasant, and quite approachable in a food-driven key -- it will work well with roasts or light stews, though it's less suited to being drunk by the glass, and -- unless you are a great fan of Tuscan wines -- won't work as well for you far from the table.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Riccionero Pinot Nero IGT Toscana 2006
Pale almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with hot iron mingled with red berry fruit and some sour vegetal accents. It's rather willowy, and one can almost hear the breezes ruffling the leaves. On the palate it's fairly light, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brish sour berry fruit acidity that has some brambly accents, and by tannins that are delicate and have a warm burr, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish. It's pleasant, though clearly from a clime that's a little too hot for Pinot, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Lanciola Antiche Terre dei Ricci Terricci Toscana IGT 2006
This is 80% Sangiovese, with the remainder Cabernet, both Franc and Sauvignon. It's cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit laced with green pepper and vegetal accents, including some artichoke stem, and clean spice as well, with hints of cedar. A wine that is more international in style. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and fairly intense minerality, while the tannins are distinctly vegetal and clearly owe some of their substance to the cabernet. It's pleasant, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light roasts.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Le Torri di Campiglioni

Azienda Agricola Le Torri di Campiglioni Chianti Colli Fiorentini Le Torri DOCG 2008
This is 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the remainder Colorino, Merlot and Canaiolo. Aged in a mixture of tank and barriques. It's dusky cherry ruby with some almandine. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit and some bell peppers, with underlying spice and hints of cedar. The Cabernet does make its influence felt. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with cherry fruit supported by haunting greenish accents and deft greenish acidity supported by tannins that have slight greenish accents and flow into a clean slightly green fruit laced finish. It's pleasant and nicely balanced, with an element of Cabernet that does distinguish it from the other wines; it is a bit of a step back into the past when Cabernet was more popular in Tuscany (people now add less than they used to) and as such brings back memories. Pleasant memories (of when I was younger!), and it will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Castello di Poppiano - Guicciardini

Castello di Poppiano Il Cortile Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This has all the permissible Cabernet and Merlot -- 15% with Cigliegiolo too, and Sangiovese, and is thus the richest wine from an ampelographic standpoint. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with India ink bitterness and some vegetal accents, almost artichoke stems, and delicate spice. Pleasant enough but needs time because it's still developing. On the palate it's direct, with clean fresh berry fruit supported by savory notes and smooth slightly bitter tannins, while the acidity is sufficient to provide direction, but not too intense, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's a food wine that will work well with simple roasts or grilled meats, and also with meat-based pasta dishes. Very simple, and despite the international varietals classic old style, the sort of wine one sets out on the table and drinks with the foods. It's not a wine to sip by the glass. If you seek depth and complexity this isn't it, but at the table the speed with which people drink it may surprise you.
1 star

Castello di Poppiano - Guicciardini Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby -- almost poured ink, with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly vegetal accents supported by berry fruit and graphite shavings, and fairly intense minerality. On the palate it's fresh, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by brambly minerality and deft mineral acidity that flow into a clean fresh rather brambly finish that does have some dusky overtones. Pleasant in a fairly direct key, and though it's not a wine that will stand out at a tasting, if you set it out with friends who have simply come to enjoy a hearty meal, you'll have to replace the bottle more than once. This isn't necessarily what wine lovers look for, but it is what wine is all about.
2 stars

Castello di Poppiano Tricorno IGT Toscana 2007
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, aged in barriques. It's deep pigeon blood ruby, close to poured ink, and honeysuckle a cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by stony minerality and spice, and by moderate alcohol; it also gives an impression of youth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cassis blackberry fruit with an underpinning of cherry, and considerable minerality supported by graphite shaving bitterness and some iodine that flow into a clean fresh mineral finish. It will work nicely with roasts, stews, and other hearty winter dishes.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Castelvecchio

Azienda Agricola Castelvecchio il Castelvecchio Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, aged in year-old barriques. Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with slight greenish accents, and hints of acidity that provide direction. On the palate it's fairly full and quite smooth, with fairly rich slightly greenish berry fruit supported by cedar-laced spice that flows into a clean slightly greenish finish; it's slightly lacking in depth and doesn't have as much acidity as I would have liked, but is quite approachable and very easy to drink. If you're traditionally minded like me you may find it less exciting than others, but it is eminently drinkable.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo - Marchesi Bartolini Baldelli

Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Sangiovese, Colorino and Merlot, which was added to increase smoothness. They only make Chianti Colli Fiorentini -- no Chianti tout court. The wine ages in a mix of year-old barriques and a botte. Deeper cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending towards brick. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite approachable, ruffiano in Italian, with ripe rather sweet cherry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and dusky accents that bring dappled shade to mind. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by decidedly smooth tannins that have a degree of India ink bitterness to them, and some licorice root, and by moderate acidity -- a little less than I might have liked, though it is quite drinkable, and is a wine that will work well by the glass far from the meal as well as with foods; it will drink well with less fatty meats, for example roast beef, as opposed to grilled ribs.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and deep cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with dusky cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and brambly notes; it's lively and rather nervous. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, a fair amount of graphite shaving bitterness, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long, fairly rich bitter graphite finish. It's quite approachable, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, and also has the capacity to age nicely for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo Capro Rosso Colli della Toscana Gentrale IGT 2007
This is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in a mixture of barriques and tonneaux, a significant percentage of which is new. The wine is deep pyrope, close to poured ink, and has a lively cherry rim, while the bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit supported by cedar; it needs another year to come into its own. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by dusky bitter accents and moderate brambly acidity that flow into a clean rather dusky finish with underlying graphite shavings that continue at length. It's pleasant, in an approachable, well-polished quite international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. If you prefer more aggressive, traditional wines, it won't work as well for you. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with drier roasts, e.g. pork loin or turkey breast, and also will with time be pleasant to drink by the glass.
2 stars

Fattoria di Fiano

Fattoria di Fiano Ugo Bing Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This also has some Merlot. Fermented in a mix of steel and cement. Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, and more animal than some, with berry fruit supported by underbrush and some animal tang, hints of wet stable straw and an abundance of sea salt, and slight cedar as well. It's in mid-stride, but in a rustic key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by slightly pungent minerality and by considerable India ink bitterness that emerges powerfully in the finish, while the tannins are smooth and savory; it's well polished, with minerality and bitterness carrying more than acidity, and pleasant to drink. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will work well with grilled or roasted red meats.
2 stars

Fattoria San Michele a Torri

Fattoria San Michele a Torri San Michele a Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This ages in part in botti, and in part in cement. It's pale ruby with black reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is bright, with sour berry fruit supported by some underbrush and savory notes; it's a touch wilder than some, and there are also savory notes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brambly berry fruit acidity, and by powerful tannins that have a warm slightly greenish Sangiovese burr and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. A pleasant food wine that will work quite well with grilled meats, including fattier meats such as sausages, ribs, or chicken with its skin, and also with light stews; it will also work well with rich legume-based dishes such as fagioli all'uccelletto. It will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria San Michele a Torri San Giovanni Novantasette Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2006
This is Sangiovese, and ages for a time in botte before spending several months in older barriques. It's deep almandine laced ruby with almandine rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with warm cherry fruit laced with balsamic warmth and spice, with some cedar as well. Quite young and still coming together, though it does bring to mind the countryside on a hot summer day in Central Tuscany. On the palate it's ample and rich, with warm cedar-laced berry fruit supported by sweetness that is likely alcohol related, and by clean bitterness; there isn't much acidity, and this is the vintage, which was quite warm, while the tannins are slightly vegetal and almost brambly. It's quite alcoholic, and you have to like that; if you don't you will find it too strong for you. If you do, it will work well with roasts or stews. But it is a fairly particular wine.
1 star

Fattoria Torre a Cona

Fattoria Torre a Cona Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Ages in part in steel, and in part in large oak. The vineyards are new, planted in 2002-2004. Pale slightly orange cherry ruby with almandine in the rim. The bouquet is bright and brambly, with sour cherry fruit supported by greenish spice and deft greenish acidity. Young vines, but they display pleasing life. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively brambly acidity with some greenish mineral accents, and by light tannins that have a fresh burr, and flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. Light, fresh, and zesty; it will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or meat-based pasta dishes, and also has sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats -- including lamb chops -- and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and it will be perfect in the proper setting.
2 stars


Fattorie Giannozzi

Fattorie Giannozzi Villa Marcialla Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This is a tank sample, 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, aged in steel with slight microoxygenation. Steel because they decided to work with steel when they set up the cellars, and are happy with the result. The wine is pale lively ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some bramble, and underlying black berry and currants. It's still developing, but promises well. On the palate it's fresh, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean brambly acidity, and by tannins that are a bit more aggressive than I would have expected from a wine with Merlot; they have a warm brambly burr, and flow into a clean sour finish. I had expected greater depth and richness; it's light and agile, and very much a food wine with quite a bit of acidity that will work well with grilled meats -- sausages, ribs and chicken with the skin, or with fried meats and vegetables. In short, a fresh zesty summer wine that will also be a good bet at a cookout. Particular and if you like the style, which is traditional you will like it.
1 star

La Colombaia Ville di Bagnolo

La Colombaia Ville di Bagnolo Terre delle Fornaci Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Large wood; this is a cask sample bottled for the presentation -- they generally bottle late, and decided to give the 2008 even more time than usual. Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is muted, and a bit unsettled,; the first aroma is bouillon supported by savory spice and berry fruit. Still up in the air. The palate is also odd, with berry fruit laced with cola on first sip, and spice, and supported by smoother sweeter tannins that have sweetish cocoa notes, and -- says a fellow taster -- licorice. It's a wine that tries very hard, and comes across as having been forced into being more than it might have wanted to be. A fellow taster says it's pushed, and more cellar than vineyard.
1 star

Azienda Agricola La Querce

Azienda Agricola La Querce La Torretta Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This ages in 2 and 3-year old barriques; is primarily Sangiovese with a little Merlot and Canaiolo. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and fairly sweet, with cherry fruit supported by cedar, some spice, and aromatic herbs; it's quite young, and displays nice depth in a fairly international key. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar, which flows into a fairly long bitter finish that has smoky cedar underpinning. The oak is fairly apparent, especially in the finish, and it needs another year to come together; it's quite approachable and will drink well with simple meat dishes, while a fellow taster suggests an Antipasto Toscano with prosciutto and salame.
1 star

La Querce IGT Toscana 2007
Sangiovese and 10% Colorino; it's deep cherry ruby with cherry reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced with some ripe berry fruit and some hints of balsam that are from oak, also nice spice. Quite approachable though it needs another year to come together, and the oak is apparent and always will be. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains definition from savory herbal --rosemary and sage -- notes and is also supported by tannins that have a warm savory cedar laced burr, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant in a 70s-80s style, with more oak more evident than seems to be the current fashion; if you like the style it is enjoyable and will work well with grilled red meats.
2 stars

La Querce M IGT Toscana 2007
This is their first vintage of a Merlot in purezza, from a vineyard planted in 2003. It's deep pigeon blood ruby, and has a fairly intense savory bouquet with quite a bit of cedar and some cassis; it's clearly oaky but this is also the wood stepping in for young vines. On the palate it's ample, with rich jammy cassis fruit supported by cedary accents that confer a degree of grace, moderate acidity that's enough to keep the wine in line, and very smooth tannins that flow into a cedar laced finish. It's a nice first vintage, and it will be worth waiting to see what emerges as the vineyard matures.
1 star

Malenchini

Malenchini Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright slightly brambly sour cherry fruit supported by tart sour cherry acidity, some minerality, also hints of India ink with moderate floral accents too; there are also hints of tree bark. On the palate it's bright, with zesty sour cherry fruit supported by rich brambly acidity and by tannins that have a warm zesty Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean bright bitter finish. Quite up front, and a classic old style Chianti, a wine that will work very well with foods, in particular grilled meats and light stews, but also ribollita and other hearty Tuscan soups. It's not a wine to drink far form the table, but will bring considerable joy to the table. If you like the style, which is quite traditional, you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Malenchini Chanti DOCG 2009
Pale cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with cherry and raspberry fruit supported by violets and some greenish notes mingled with apricot fuzz and sweetness. Bright, in an appealing fruity key. On the palate it's fresh and light, with rich ripe cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderate brambly acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a slightly greenish finish. Quite direct and up front, a cookout or picnic wine that will also work well with simple first course dishes and light meats, and go quite quickly. Drink it now to enjoy its freshness, and a second bottle will come in handy.
1 star

Malenchini Bruzzico Toscana IGT 2006
This is a blend of Cabernet and Sangiovese; it's deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and slight green pepper, Cabernet's contribution, and by some iodine and leaf tobacco mingled with dusky pencil shavings and graphite. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky mineral bitterness and graphite shavings, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly bitter finish. Pleasant, though it's a little more staid than the Chianti Colli Fiorentini; there isn't quite as much acidity and this is in part the vintage, which was hotter and consequently riper and less acidic. It is in any case quite approachable, and will drink well with grilled red meats or hearty stews, including game such as boar or venison.
2 stars

Petreto

Petreto Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2008
This is from a cooler part of the appellation and at 400 MASL, with considerable temperature excursions, and is a tank sample. It's primarily Sangiovese -- 85-90% with Merlot, and ages primarily in steel, with some cement and botti for 30%. It's deep pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, and bright, with jammy accents and a degree of acidity that brings sunshine to mind at first sniff, supported by cassis, blackberry, and some underlying spice. The overall impression is chewy. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit that has pleasant cassis overtones and is supported by slightly greenish jammy acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight savory underpinning, and flow into a clean fresh slightly greenish finish. It's fresh, fruity, and quite approachable, and will drink nicely with hearty drier roasts -- roast beef cooked rare and sliced thick, or pork loin for example. If you like the style, which is fairly international, you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Petreto Podere Sassaie IGT Toscana 2007
The only white of the day, this is 45-45 Semillon and Sauvignon, with the remainder Chardonnay, fermented in steel, and spends 5 months on the lees. It's brassy yellow with greenish reflections and white rim, and has a fairly intense, decidedly mineral bouquet with iodine and brambly greenish notes mingled with alcohol, some vegetal accents at the outset, and gooseberry that gains in intensity with time. Gives an impression of tartness. On the palate it's much more savory than I would have expected from the nose, with warm salty tropical fruit -- gooseberry - pineapple -- supported by greenish accents from grape that bring cedar to mind, and flow into a warm savory finish. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with cheese or fish based antipasti, and also has power enough to drink well with creamy fish or white meats; I might even be tempted to think about Welsh rabbit.
2 stars

Petreto Bicciolé IGT Toscana 2007
This is a Merlot, and is deep cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is fairly intense, with considerable graphite shaving bitterness mingled with iodine and cherry fruit laced with cassis, and some blackberry sweetness. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry currant fruit that gains definition from dusky graphite shaving bitterness, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight youthful burr, and flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish with underlying bitterness. It has a pleasing dusky richness to it, and will drink well with succulent, not to fatty red meats, for example roast beef slicked thick. If you like the style, which is more controlled than one finds in traditional Chianti, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Fattoria di Lucignano: A Classic, and Very Traditional Chianti from the Colli Fiorentini

Fattoria di Lucignano is a small estate in the Comune of San Casciano, but not the Chianti Classico part. Rather, it's located in the Chianti Colli Fiorentini production area, towards Montespertoli, on good ground, which is clayey with much stoniness to guarantee drainage. The varietals are for the most part traditional, with Sangiovese predominating, and lesser amounts of Colorino and Canaiolo, though Riccardo Galli, the estate's agronomist, notes that in the past 10 years small amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon have been planted too.

Fermentation is temperature controlled, in glass-lined cement vats, followed by prolonged macerations -- 10-15 days -- on the skins. The malolactic fermentation takes place at about Christmas time, and the wines are bottled in September; the cellar is old and cool, and Riccardo says that under these conditions cement vats are perfect for keeping the wines fresh.

They only bottle Chianti Colli Fiorentini, and in addition to making Chianti, make a vinsanto from Trebbiano and Malvasia that they dry on stuoie, the traditional mats, until the sugars reach a concentration of 350 g/liter (of must), at which point they are pressed, and go into caratelli, the small traditional vinsanto barrels. Fermentation is long and slow, with some of the barrels reaching alcohol contents of 20% (they use their own madri, or starters, which contain yeasts that have adapted well to the extreme conditions of vinsanto) with pleasingly low volatile acidities. The wines, tasted at Vinitaly April 2009:

Fattoria Di Lucignano Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot L0904
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections and cherry rim paling to white. The bouquet is rich, with deft sour cherry fruit supported by savory accents and some bright, sour berry fruit acidity coupled with dusky shade and slight vegetal accents. Pleasant, and nicely balanced in a traditional key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity with underlying savory notes, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh sour cherry finish with a warm tannic underpinning. A pleasant food wine that will work very well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to go with fried meats and vegetables. Expect the bottle to go quickly.
88-90

I also tasted a barrel sample of the 2007: It's quite pleasant, and perhaps superior to the 2006.

Fattoria Di Lucignano Vinsanto del Chianti 1997 Tawny amber with orange apricot highlights. Pleasant to look at. The bouquet is rich, with dried fruit -- dates laced with walnut skins -- and oatmeal, with some sticky dark brown sugar and deft hints of dried mushroom. Considerable depth and finesse. On the palate it's full, with rich dried apricot fruit supported by pleasant sweetness and apricot acidity that gradually fades into warmth, while walnut skin bitterness emerges to provide a counterpoint, and the finish is very, very long. A great pleasure to drink, and one of the nicest things about it is that it's not extreme -- sweet but not too sweet, and rich but not cloying. Perfect with friends by the fire after a meal, or even on a patio in the evening.
88-90

A little more info on the Fattoria di Lucignano, from Marc De Grazia

A Tasting Of Chianti Colli Fiorentini

Chianti is, first of all, a well defined region between Florence and Siena, centered upon the territories of Radda, Gaiole, and Castellina in Chianti, three Florentine Communes that Florence combined into a single entity in 1384, calling it the Lega del Chianti, and charging it with the task of settling disputes with the City of Siena, by diplomatic means if possible, and by arms if necessary.

That the area also produced fine wines was merely a happy accident. But it did, and they were so good that Chianti is one of the four regions Grand Duke Cosimo III recognized in 1716, in an Edict that is the first formal recognition (anywhere) of winemaking areas, and as such marks the first establishment of appellations (the other three areas are Pomino -- what is now Chianti Rufina -- Carmignano, and an area of the Upper Valdarno towards Arezzo whose wine-making significance has since paled).

What Cosimo III recognized as Chianti is essentially what is now Chianti Classico, and when the people living in the area began to bottle their wines, they naturally put the word Chianti on the labels. This was long before labeling laws, however, and as a result there was nothing to keep those whose lands fell outside the region specified by Cosimo from putting the word Chianti, which did help sales, on their labels too. So they did.

In 1924, however, a group of 33 producers within the area Cosimo III specified banded together and established the Consorzio del Gallo Nero, whose symbol was a black rooster: Only those whose vineyards fell within the area could join, and only if they met rigorous standards (first of which, the wine had to be red). Members of the Consorzio del Gallo Nero (now Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico) were allowed to call their wines Chianti Classico, while the word Chianti came to mean everything else, and was represented by a Consorzio called Chianti Putto, which was established in 1927.

Chianti Putto was huge, and with time a number of subzones were established: Chianti Colli Fiorentini is, as one might expect, the subzone surrounding Florence. It's fairly large, resembling an upside-down horseshoe, and also quite variable, with parts bordering Chianti Classico, and others either extending into the Val D'Arno or up into the mountains behind Fiesole.

In terms of composition and production, the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Disciplinare allows producers considerable latitude: the wine must be at least 75% Sangiovese. They can use more Sangiovese, up to 100% if they want, but can also add autochthonous red varietals such as Colorino or Canaiolo (max 10% of the latter), up to 10% white varietals such as Trebbiano or Malvasia Bianca (this is a break with Chianti Classico, which has banned them), and up to 20% of the international varietals such as Cabernet, Merlot or Syrah (max 10% of a given varietal).

Wood use is also up to the producer and varies considerably; some use small wood, others large, and still others cement vats or steel tanks.

One important difference between Chianti tout court and Chianti Colli Fiorentini is the release date: whereas Chianti can be released on the first day of March, just a few months after the harvest, Chianti Colli Fiorentini must be held until September 1 (by comparison, Chianti Classico is released on October 1). The additional aging brings considerably greater maturity and complexity to the wines.

The Consorzio Chianti Colli Fiorentini held a tasting this fall that I was, alas, unable to attend. However, Patrizia Cantini very kindly had samples of the wines poured gathered, and I tasted them blind this January.

It was an enjoyable experience; as one might expect given the variability of terroir, composition, and wood use there were considerable variations in the wines, but I did find a number well worth seeking out. Also some that are frankly not worth seeking, and this brings up an important point. Though the producers of Chianti Colli Fiorentini are working hard to improve quality, they are years (decades, even) behind Chianti Classico. As a result, the enological landscape is much more varied; there are fine peaks, some rivaling anything else to be found in Tuscany, but also deep valleys and some topographical features that can only be termed sinkholes.

What this means is that one must select with care: Good Chianti Colli Fiorentini (the volume of which increases yearly) is quite nice. It also represents an excellent value for money because, as a general rule, Chianti Colli Fiorentini is less expensive than some of the other better known central Tuscan appellations.

The Wines, Tasted January 18 And 19 2009:

Fattoria La Colombaia
La Colombaia Terre delle Fornaci Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot not apparent
Pretty black label; the wine is deep cherry ruby with cherry rim fading to white. The bouquet is fairly rich, and bright, with lively brambly sour berry fruit with slight savory balsamic undertones. Invigorating. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity and fairly light tannins that have slight greenish undertones and flow into a bright brambly finish. Quite traditional, in a rather aggressive frame; it will work quite well with rich meat based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats including sausages and spare ribs, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with a platter of mixed fried meats and vegetables. If you like the style you will enjoy it, though if you prefer the smoother softer international style it won't work as well.
2 stars

Malechini
Malechini Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 04/08
Cherry ruby with rim paling to white. The bouquet is moderately intense, with slightly jammy red berry fruit supported by some bitter vegetal accents that bring artichokes to mind, and by moderate sea salt with hints of iodine. On the palate it's medium bodied, with tart red berry fruit supported by dusky tannins that flow into a decidedly bitter finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes or simple red meats, especially off the grill.
1 star

Torre a Cona
Torre a Cona Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 108
Lively ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with brambly red berry fruit that has greenish vegetal overtones, and is supported by sour berry fruit acidity. Bracing, and zesty. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour berry fruit that has some black currant overtones, and is supported by zesty sour fruit acidity and by moderately intense fairly smooth tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. A pleasant, rather scrappy food wine that will drink well with hearty thick winter soups, meat based pasta dishes, succulent grilled meats (it will be nice at a cookout, where it will also work well with things like potato salad), and also with fried meats and vegetables. With respect to some other scrappy wines the fruit has a touch more roundness, which will make it more approachable for those who like smoother fruit driven wines. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will go quickly.
2 stars

Lanciola
Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot not apparent
Brilliant black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with mentholated red berry fruit that has some greenish spicy accents and the heather of a Tuscan field early in the morning during the summer months. On the palate it's medium bodied, with decidedly tart sour cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are moderately intense and have greenish brambly bitterness, while leaving a trail of dust over the tongue as they flow into a bitter finish. It's quite direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats (including tose at a cookout) or light stews; if you like this rather scrappy aggressive style you will enjoy it. But you have to like the style.
1 star

Lanciola Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2003
Lot CFR03 (? Hard to read)
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some gum Arabic with hints of petroleum and cedar as well, and an underpinning of sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied with rather tart sour berry fruit that feels tired, supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and greenish cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly bitter finish. I'm not sure what has happened here --perhaps large wood that's a little too old, though I'm not sure, but it comes across as trying too hard, and rather winded. Because of the tart bitterness that emerges in the finish it will drink well with fattier roasts or stews, and might be a nice bet with something like stewed venison or wild boar.
1 star

La Querce
La Querce La Torretta Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 20601
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry violet rim; it's darker than many of the other vini d'annata. The bouquet is intense, and quite fresh, with violets mingled with red berry fruit and underlying cedar that confers slight bitterness. The overall effect is airy and brings to mind a crisp fall day. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, and gain depth from cedar laced bitterness that carries though into the finish, with is fruit driven. Pleasant, in a more international fruit driven style than some of the others, and is a wine that will drink well with light stews or roasts, and is also a wine one could drink by the glass with friends when the wine is to provide support rather than be the centerpiece of the occasion. I found it growing upon me, if you prefer fairly concentrated fruit driven wines you will enjoy it, and even if you are more traditional in tastes there are things to enjoy.
2 stars

San Michele a Torri
San Michele A Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 82421
Pale ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and refreshingly cool, with brambly berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal acidity and some spice. Direct. On the palate it's equally direct, with tart sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and moderately intense slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish. A simple, direct wine that will do a fine job of accompanying grilled meats, ranging from ribs and sausages though chicken with the skin on, and will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. In the proper setting it will hit the spot, though you do have to like this frankly aggressive style. If you do, the bottle will go quickly.
1 star

San Michele a Torri San Giovanni 97 Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2005
Lot 39651
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, though not quite as clean as I might have hoped; there's red berry fruit supported by spice and hints of underbrush and balsam, with slight savory barnyard tang as well. Just a touch rustic. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright red berry fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly light, and flow into a sour berry fruit finish. The palate is more interesting than the nose and it's quite drinkable, but doesn't display as much depth as I'd expect from a Riserva. This said, it will work well with hearty pasta dishes, thick legume-based soups, and also with simple grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Azienda Agraria Petreto
Via di Rosano, 196/a
50065 Pontassieve (FI)
Tel: 055/6519021

Petreto Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 2/08
Lively ruby with black reflections and rim paling to white. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by savory accents that at the outset bring Sichuan preserved vegetable to mind, and gradually resolve into savory spice. Interesting and not at all unpleasant. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by delicate sour cherry acidity, and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish whose acidity carries at length. Pleasant in a light, fairly lively key, and though it's not a wine to drink by the glass far from the table it will work well with foods, ranging from hearty vegetable soups through simple grilled meats and light stews. In the proper setting it will go quite quickly. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tenuta il Corno
Tenuta il Corno Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot CF06/0908
Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets and forest berry fruit supported by bitterness and chalk dust at first swish, which resolve into more intense forest berry fruit, in particular black currants, with more swishing, while savory vegetal underpinning emerges. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense forest berry fruit, a mixture of black currant and cherry supported by more tart cherry acidity than I might have expected, and by light tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. The bouquet is a little unusual, while the wine is fruit driven in a light fairly acidic key; if you like the combination it will drink well with fattier grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. In the proper setting it will go quickly.
1 star

Tenuta il Corno San Camillo Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2005
Lot CF1/00
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and spice. Tart, and invigorating. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich tart cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by clean slightly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. Pleasant in a fairly light (for a Riserva) very traditional key, and will drink well with foods, though I wouldn't be tempted to drink it by the glass far from the table. What foods? Hearty roasts, stews, and also fried meats and vegetables, which are usually something I associate more with a vino d'annata than a Riserva. But it is pleasant in a scrappy traditional key, not attempting to be an Important Wine, and also has sufficient acidity to age nicely for 5-8 years, and I expect that it will become lacy with time. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Le Torri
Le Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 1091
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is eye opening in a rustic sort of way, with considerable animal tang -- wet stable straw with hints of lathered horse and leather -- and fairly intense underlying acidity. On the palate it's fairly full in a languid key, with ample cherry fruit supported by moderately intense cherry acidity, and by ample smooth tannins that flow into a fairly long tart finish in which acidity emerges more than fruit, and carries at length. It's particular, and you have to like the style. If you do, it will drink well with succulent roasts or stews, and you will find that the bottle goes quickly.
1 star

Le Torri Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2004
Lot 15063
Cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brambly berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents, and by airy savory notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slightly greenish brambly burr and flow into a clean bitter berry fruit laced finish. Pleasant in a deft traditional key, though not quite as rich as some Riserve are; it will drink quite well with foods, ranging from hearty pasta dishes through succulent red meats, and if you like the style it will go quickly.
2 stars

Tenuta La Cipressaia
Via Romita,38
50025 Montespertoli (FI)
Tel & Fax: 0571/670868

Tenuta La Cipressaia Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 06/06
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and hints of gum Arabic; with more swishing the fruit reveals some black currants too. On the palate it's light bodied, with bright forest berry fruit that has fairly strong black currant accents supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth slight greenish tannins that flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. A light, zesty food wine that will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to accompany fried meats and vegetables. Deft, and will be perfect in the proper setting, though you do have to like the style. If you prefer softer smoother wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Tenuta La Cipressaia Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2007
Lot 06/07
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly red berry fruit supported by brisk greenish acidity. Direct, but what it has to say is interesting. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright rather green sour berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are clean and have a tart savory burr that flows into a bright sour berry fruit finish with bitter underpinning. It's quite traditional, and scrappy too; if you like smoother softer wines it won't work for you, but if you enjoy the more traditional style it will drink well with hearty meat-based pasta dishes or risotti, and also with succulent grilled meats along the lines of sausages, ribs, burgers (swimming with cheese), and chicken with the skin; it will also work well with fried meats and vegetables. A step into the past, and a nice one.
2 stars

Il Castelvecchio
Il Castelvecchio Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG 2006
Lot 08/150
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with berry fruit mingled with underbrush and savory notes coupled with something bitter that brings cobwebs to mind. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry fruit and by fairly light tannins that flow into a fairly bitter berry fruit finish. Direct, and will drink nicely with foods, supporting from behind the scenes rather than demanding center stage.
1 star

Castelvecchio Vigna La Quercia Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva DOCG 2004
Lot 0780
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit that has some mentholated balsamic notes and is supported by a mixture of acidity and wet green leather. A bit unusual. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich, frankly generic berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a tart finish that simply fades. It's oddly disjointed, and feels like a vino d'annata that has been pumped up rather than something that always had the makings of a Riserva. Difficult to explain, but I think I'd have preferred it in a smaller key.
1 star

Fattorie Giannozzi
Villa Marcialla
Località La Ceppa
50020 Marcialla
Barberino Val d'Elsa (FI)
Tel: 055/8076602

Villa Marcialla Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot 100408
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with lathered horse and wet stable straw mingled with fairly tart acidity and distinctly vegetal overtones. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have feel separate from the fruit somehow, and have a greenish burr that flows into a fairly sour finish. The rusticity of the nose carries into the palate, and it's a wine that you should only consider if you like this style. If you do, it will work well with succulent grilled meats, including fattier fare such as sausages or chicken with its skin, and also has sufficient acidity to work well with fried meats and vegetables.
1 star

Villa Marcialla Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2003
Lot 240408
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit -- but not much -- and herbal notes mingled with cedar, and sea salt underpinning. On the palate it's thin, with moderately intense rather sour berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are again light, and flow into a fairly direct sour berry fruit finish. I'd have expected greater depth and concentration from a Riserva, because the region is quite capable of providing it.
1 star

Fattoria di Fiano
Fattoria di Fiano Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot 4-08
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim fading to white. The bouquet is fresh, and rather tart, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and hints of berry fruit jam. Nice balance, and deft in a fairly scrappy key. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly vegetal cast to them, and flow into a clean fresh vegetal fruit finish. Pleasant in a young, light, scrappy sort of way, and will drink quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the wherewithal to work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like the traditional style you will enjoy it, and the bottle will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria di Fiano Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2006
Lot 6-08
Impenetrable slightly violet pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and a pleasant underlay of spice with hints of cedar. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and by smooth tannins that have a clean bitter underpinning and flow into a bitter fruit laced finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and though it's not quite substantial enough for a fatty roast like leg of lamb, it will work quite well with hearty grilled meats (a porterhouse comes to mind), and will also be nice with stews, including flavorful meats such as boar or venison. Worth seeking out, and it will age nicely for at least another 5 years.
86-8

Fattoria di Bagnolo
Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot 071
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by some airy floral accents and by clean spice mingled with hints of truffle. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate slightly bitter acidity, and by tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean bitter fruit laced finish. It's fairly direct, and I'd have preferred better definition than it displays -- there isn't quite as much acidity as I had hoped for, and as a result it has a lax feeling to it. This said, it will work well with meat-based pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and light stews.
1 star

Fatoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2007
Lot 081
Deep slightly violet pigeon blood ruby with lively ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fresh, with forest berry fruit, a mixture of cherry and also quite a bit of black currant, that gains definition from hints of berry fruit acidity, slight floral accents, and underlying berry fruit jam. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich forest berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and fairly light tannins that do have a slight burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. It's deft in a smoother softer fruit driven key, and if you like this style (as opposed to the more aggressive traditional style) it will work quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and you may also want to drink it by the glass with friends.
2 stars

Fattoria di Bagnolo Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2005
Lot 072
Deep slightly cloudy pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by warm cedar with hints of graphite that nicely balances the fruit; it's harmonious but not as complex as I might have hoped. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a smooth cedar overlay and flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's direct, in a way that's simpler than I'd have expected from a Riserva, and is also lacking in intensity and concentration of fruit. A pity, because the region can do much more.
1 star

Note: It feels as if there has been a change of course between 2006 and 2007.

Castello di Poppiano
Castello di Poppiano Il Cortile Chianti Colli Fiorentini 2006
Lot illegible
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ripe fairly generic red fruit mingled with gum Arabic and hints of dried mushrooms. It's muted, but in an odd way that isn't really youthful bottle shock; the second bottle is the same and I wonder if it's a corkage issue. On the palate it feels rather dilute, with generic red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity coupled with savory bitterness, and by tannins that have a splintery burr and flow into a savory finish. I'd have liked greater depth, brightness and concentration.
1 star

Castello di Poppiano Chianti Colli Fiorentini Riserva 2005
Lot 01 08 (? Hard to read)
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by cedar and savory spice and underlying berry fruit jam. Nice balance, and youthfully harmonious. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by cedar laced tannins that lay a dusty trail over the tongue, and flow into a distinctly bitter tannic finish. It's not quite as smooth as it might be in the finish -- the tannic splinteriness is quite marked -- but will drink well with succulent grilled meats or hearty roasts, along the lines of medium rare roast beef cut thick, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years.
2 stars

A note on the order: I tasted the wines blind (labels covered), starting with the Vini D'Annata, followed by the Riserve. The wineries are listed in the order that I tasted their Vini D'Annata.