Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

You may or may not have heard about the earthquakes that shook the Pianura Padana this winter, but I was in Tedeschi's offices talking with Sabrina when the floor began to ripple, and we sat quietly watching the floor lamps sway for a few seconds. It's not something I'm used to. Fortunately that was it, and when we finished talking I headed into Verona for the Amarone Anteprima.

They, like the others in the Famiglie dell'Amarone, chose not to participate, also because their wines were not yet in bottle, and I therefore was quite happy to stop at their stand at Vinitaly and taste everything.

Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2011

Lot L2
Brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, paling to white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with a great deal of gunflint supported by minerality and spice, and by clean greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and quite mineral, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint and a certain stoniness that brings struck granite to mind, and flow s into a fairly long slightly bitter gunflint laced finish with underlying lemony grapefruit acidity. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 162
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with deft slightly greenish berry fruit -- cherry mostly, though there is also some raspberry, and supported by bright greenish vegetal acidity that has that classic Valpolicella tang to it, and pleasing fresh floral accents as well. Extremely inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a slight dusky greenish burr, and flow into a long greenish sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with foods, ranging from fried meats and vegetables through quickly grilled meats. A perfect cookout wine too, one that one could drink by the bucket.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2010

Lot 161
The label says, "Appassimento," which means drying -- the grapes are allowed to dry some before pressing. The wine is deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by some sweetish accents and pleasant greenish vegetal notes mingled with wood smoke and peppery accents, and some sea salt and cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate minerality and slight dusky accents more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth with some dusky accents that flow into a clean rather dusky savory finish. It's not as bright as it has been in some other vintages, but displays pleasing depth; it's quite approachable and will drink nicely with grilled meats and light stews.
2 stars

Tedeschi Corasco Rosso delle Venezie IGT 2009

Lot not apparent
This is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco (75%, 5% and 20%), traditional varietals of the Veneto, and is deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal laced prune fruit supported by spice and sandalwood with greenish accents as well. Pleasant complexity and very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly smoky prune fruit supported by deft prune and berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long savory prune finish. It's more direct than the Valpolicella wines, and also eminently approachable, a wine that one can drink without thinking overmuch and will be perfect with roasts or stews. The imprint of the Corvina is quite apparent, and it leads the way, though the other two contribute nicely. The Italian word would be ruffiano, which is ingratiating, and that it is.
2 stars

Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009

Lot 553
Deep black cherry almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by sandalwood and pleasant greenish spice with underlying sea salt and hints of nutmeg and brown sugar, it's quite harmonious and very enjoyable to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively prune cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, with licorice root accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with sour prune accents and deft tannic support and warmth that continue at length. Quite pleasant, with considerable complexity and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts, and also with substantial strew, and is also quite young; it will drink nicely now but will reward you if you decide to give it a few years.
88-90

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008

Lot 141
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and rather exotic, with sandalwood spice mingled with smoke and slight nose tingling acidity, and with warm sour notes that bring grilled peppers to mind though are not quite that. Harmonious, and quite interesting to sniff. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by bright prune acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a slight dusky burr, and flow into a sandalwood laced prune finish that lasts and lasts, gradually revealing peppery accents as the fruit fades. Very pleasant, and is a wine that will drink very well wit roasts or stews; one could press it into service today, but it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
90-91

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Lot 354
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is quite young, with prune fruit supported by sandalwood and sour berry fruit acidity with underlying greenish notes and alcohol, and also a fair amount of licorice root. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and carry at length into a fairly long bright finish. It is drinkable, but will reward those who are willing to give it time. I would think about opening it in 1018 or so. Expect it to age well for at least 10 years thereafter.
88-90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sample
Lot 1t2
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with berry fruit supported by licorice root and greenish accents that are supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. It's woefully young and really didn't deserve to be opened for tasting yet. On the palate it's ample and powerful, with rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice, while the tannins are ample with a bright peppery cast, and the real question that comes to mind is why anyone would want to open this wine in this decade. It's like a toddler, good natured but still a toddler, and it needs at least 5-7 years to get its bearings and begin to be drinkable. One could now if one had no other choice, but it is a pity. Expect it to age well for 15 years at least. The score reflects the present.
90


Tedeschi La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pigeon blood ruby rim. The bouquet is elegant, with prune fr supported by sandalwood and spice with underlying sweetish accents and warmth, and deft spice and slight acidity. Quite young, but already pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, and moderately sweet, with cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate rather mineral acidity; it's quite harmonious, and though the tannins dry the finish -- an effect of its considerable youth -- is already pleasant enough. It will be much nicer in the future, but if you felt you had to you could drink it now. I wouldn't, and would hold onto it for at least 5 years before I even thought about opening it. Because the potential is there.
90-91

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2006

Lot L2
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim with some almandine reflections in the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by prune acidity and brown sugar sweetness with some pleasant slightly greenish sandalwood accents. Quite pleasant to sniff in a ripe sweet key, and as it opens some licorice root also emerges. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a lasting slightly tannic fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly voluptuous key, and will drink very well with cheeses, especially more piquant cheese and softer well herbed cheeses, or far form the table.
88-90

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

I have known the Tedeschi family for many years: when I visited the Valpolicella region to collect samples shortly after founding the Italian Wine Review (which was then a paper magazine) they quite willingly contributed samples, and when Vinitaly rolled around invited me to a dinner. Which has by now become a tradition, on the first night of the Fiera. I tasted most of these wines on the first day of the Fiera, and finished up on the second.

Captel Tenda Soave Classico 2010
Lot 2 2010 (I think)
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with herbal notes and some heather mingled with spice and sea salt. Fresh, and still developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively white berry fruit supported by acidity and sea salt, with some peppery spice as well that adds depth and verve, and it flows into a fairly long peppery finish with considerable vegetal accents and a savory underpinning that continues at length. It's fresh and fairly direct, but a touch heavy; it will drink well as an aperitif with cheese or fish based antipasti, and also be nice with grilled or roasted fish, while it also has the backbone necessary for risotti or simple white meats.
1 star

Corasco Rosso delle Venezia IGT 2008
Lot 181
This is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco, made after drying the grapes slightly. It's fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bu and alcohol mingled with brambles and some brambly acidity, and with underlying spice; there's also some wet earth. On the palate it's brighter than one might expect from the nose, with lively dusky cherry fruit supported by a warm peppery burr and by bright acidity that flows into a long finish that owes its considerable warmth in part to alcohol (14%). It's quite brash, aggressive even, and very mich a food wine; I wouldn't drink it by the glass,, and would make certain my guests like this style before I opened a bottle because it's not for everyone. If it is for you, it will work quite well with grilled meats, including fattier things such as spare ribs (seasoned the Italian way, with salt, pepper, rosemary & perhaps sage), and also with fired meats, for example lamb chops.
1 star

Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009
Lot 181
The label says appassimento, drying; it's lively cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim, and ahs a fairly rich bouquet with cherry plum fruit supported by sandalwood, spice, and moderate alcoholic warmth. Nice balance and harmony, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins that have a warm peppery burr and by bright berry fruit acidity that has slight brambly accents, and it flows into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. It's quite approachable in a brash key, rather like a grinning tomboy with scabs on her knees, and if you like the style it will work well with pasta dishes, meat-based risotti, simple grilled meats, including fattier fare,a nd also fried meats and vegetables
2 stars

Lucchine Valpolicella Classico 2010
Lot 1618
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and brambly with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish brambly accents and some sandalwood, with slight alcoholic warmth as well. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather slight, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, a simple, lark of a wine that will drink very well with simple foods, ranging from pasta and burgers through light strews. It would be nice to drink day-by-day.
2 stars

Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore DOC Ripasso 2008
Lot 634
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and warmth with some sandalwood as well. Still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and fairly intense warmth, while there is also deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and hints of sweetness to them, and flow into a warm peppery finish. It's quite young and still coming together, but promises nicely, and will work quite well with stews or roasts when it has another year or two under its belt.
2 stars

La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2007
Lot 162 (I think)
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by some sandalwood and pleasant spice with a fair amount of alcojhol as well. Still very young, and needs time to grow. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft peppery berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, but do have a peppery burr that continues into the finish, which is fairly long and rather alcoholic. Pleasant in a fairly brash key, and, like the other wines, needs time, If you must drink it now, drink it with a roast or stew, but if you can give it time it will reward you.
2 stars

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lot 10b3
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still quite young, with cherry fruit supported by alcohol and greenish vegetal accents mingled with sandalwood spice; it's elegant but not too happy about being open. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful spicy cherry fruit supported by some sweetness, and by considerable warmth, while the tannins are clean and have a warm burr to them, flowing into a long clean slightly jammy berry fruit finish with underlying exotic spice. It's still very much a child, and though one could approach it one should with caution, because it's not happy and might bite. But it does have considerable potential, and is a wine I would simply set aside and forget about for a few years, because the potential is there.
88-90

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Cask sample
Deep black pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with berry fruit and some sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with slight sweetness, and considerably more approachable than the 2006, and this is especially impressive considering that it's a cask sample while the 06 is already in bottle and has been for a while. It will be graceful in a ripe approachable key, and will drink very well with stews or roasts. I expect nice things from it.

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lot 1b3
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich licorice-laced sligthoy candied cherry fruit supported by some sandalwood and spice, and by a fair amount of alcohol as well. It's clearly very young, and shows considerable promise. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful rather bitter cherry plum fruit laced with licorice and sandalwood, and supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a peppery burr, the one I have come to associate with the vintage, and flow into a long warm peppery finish. It needs time, another 2-3 years at least for the tannins to smooth and gain grace, at which point it will be very nice, and continue to age well for a decade longer at least. If you feel you must drink it sooner, pair it with something rich along the lines of leg of lamb, fairly well done.
88-90

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Cask sample
Deep ruby with hints of orange in the rim; it's not quite as dark as the 06. The bouquet is rich, and fairly sweet, with cherry fruit supported by spice and sweetness, and some sandalwood too. Promises nicely. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acdity and by tannins that are much softer and smoother than those of the 2006. It's going to be graceful in a fairly rich warm weather key -- a touch less complexity, and a touch less acidity -- and shows considerable promise.

La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Cask sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry towards the rim, and orange nail. The bouquet is powerful and a bit up in the air, with red berry fruit and sandalwood with some underlying cedar and spice, and if one concentrates an underlying vein of sweetness that brings Recioto to mind. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet (for a dry wine) with prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and elegant greenish sandalwood spice. As was the case with the other 2007 wines, its tannins are much softer than those of the 2006, and it will be more approachable sooner; it will also be graceful in a rather voluptuous key. Something to look out for.

Capitel Fontana Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Cask sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and sweet, with prune fruit shot though with greenish accents and spice; it has an angry feel to it. On the palate it's full and sweet, with elegant sandalwood-laced jammy cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do reveal a slight burr in the finish, with is fairly long, gradually settling into sweet warmth. The tannins are softer than those of the Amaroni, though they do have a slight peppery component to them, and this is I think because of the sweetness. It's pleasant and will work quite well with green or well aged cheeses, assuming you don't decide to sip it with friends far from the table.

Capitel Monte Olmi & More: A Tedeschi Vertical

When I first tasted systematically through the Valpolicella region a number of years ago, Tedeschi's wines were among those that impressed me the most, and since then I have made it a point to visit Tedeschi's stand at Vinitaly (usually the first day, and it's usually my last stop), both to taste the wines and to chat, because the family is delightful. This year Sabrina and her brother Riccardo instead came to Florence, bringing a number of vintages of Capitel Monte Olmi, their flagship Amarone, which is from a single vineyard, and also of their basic Amarone Classico della Valpolicella, which is instead a selection of the best grapes from their other vineyards.

The Capitel Monte Olmi is intentionally a more substantial wine, one that tends to take center stage when it is placed at the table, whereas the Amarone Classico is intentionally a more approachable wine, one that one can set out and drink -- if one can imagine setting out and drinking an Amarone.

In terms of technique, the Tedeschi Family is quite traditional -- they do have a drying hall, in which they simply dehumidify the air without warming it to quicken the pace at which it sucks moisture from the grapes, and once the grapes have dried ferment the bunches whole rather than destem them, because they find that destemming damages the grapes, and this has a negative impact upon the wines. Fermentation is, unless the sugar content of the must is extremely high, with natural yeasts, and Riccardo, who is the winemaker, lets it start at its own pace; because of the high sugar content of the must it can take up to a month for the fermentation to get going, during which time the must macerates on the skins. The subsequent alcoholic fermentation can take up to another month and a half. They rack the wine when it begins to seem dry, he said, and put it into botti, where it finishes fermentation, while the vinacce, or wine marks, which still have something to give, go into the Valpolicella Superiore following the traditional ripasso technique.

The Wines, tasted January 18 2011

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1995
Elegant almandine with pale orange nail. The bouquet is powerful, with elegant sour berry fruit supported by dried orange peel, spice, and leafy underbrush mingled with leaf tobacco and savory spice. Beautiful, and it opens delightfully. Most impressive, inviting sniff after sniff. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit that has the slight sweetness one associates with Amarone, and supported by silky tannins that have slight dried plum accents and are supported by deft acidity and savory underpinning that goes on and on. An extremely impressive wine that revolves around grace and finesse, though there is also steely power, in abundance. Amarone needs time to come together, and this has; it will age beautifully for many more years too.
95

A note: with this vintage they tried aging Capitel Monte Olmi in tonneaux (500 liter barrels), but decided that botti work better and returned to them.

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 1998
Pale almandine with brilliant reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry prune fruit supported by savory spice and some underbrush, though not so much leaf tobacco; it's still very fresh, and as it opens intriguing brown sugar sweetness that is perfectly integrated with the fruit also emerges. It has a lot to say. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with rich cherry prune fruit supported by silky tannins and deft acidity, while the hints of brown sugar present in the nose also comes through on the palate. Very nice, in a slightly richer key than the 95, and this is because it was a hotter vintage. It's not quite as lithe as the 95 -- rather slightly more voluptuous -- and again quite young, and will age beautifully for many more years, though it will drink nicely now too.
93-5

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's significantly darker than the older vintages. The bouquet is powerful, with cherry and prune fruit supported by spice and slight sandalwood, and also by hints of gum Arabic and alcohol. It's quite elegant, and still very young, needs more time to express its best, though what it shows is pretty nice already. On the palate it's ample and rich, with nice cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have slight vanilla accents, and flow into a clean fresh smooth finish. It's an ample, powerful wine that is also quite approachable, and will drink very well with roasts or spicy hearty stews along the lines of goulash or pastissada, and will also work well with rich boiled dinner of North Italian tradition.
92-4

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. The bouquet is intense, and much younger than the 2001, and also more aromatic, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by spice and some leathery accents, and also by some greenish vegetal notes. It's not quite a work in progress, but still quite young. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet, with bright berry fruit -- a mix of cherry and prune with dark brown sugar sweetness -- supported by alcoholic warmth and tannins that have a dry cedary underlay and flow into a clean rather dry tannic finish that is balanced by some sweetness and voluptuous barely ripe yellow peach accents. We're tasting a toddler here, and it doesn't feel quite right; the wine will be beautiful and fully deserves a very high score, but it's not something that should be drunk any time soon; if you have a bottle set it aside 8until 2020 at least), because it will reward you.
92

The 2005 and 2006 Monte Olmi have a little Osoleta, a lesser varietal of Veronese tradition, which confers structure, acidity and color. Just a little, says Sabrina, adding that it has to be used with caution.

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Cherry ruby with black reflections and ruby impenetrable; it's not quite as charged as the 04. The bouquet is quite young, with cherry fruit supported by greenish spice with some sandalwood and some of sweetness, with scrappy brambly accents as well and some sea salt and fairly intense vegetal notes. On the palate it's lighter than the 2004, considerably, and this is due to the vintage, which was much cooler; there's moderately intense cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with slight hints of dark brown sugar sweetness and some cedar, but less than in the 2004, and it flows into a clean rather tart finish. It's a much scrappier wine than the 2004, and has a pleasing lithe grace to it; it's a beautiful interpretation of a lesser vintage and it is very nice to find a winemaker who accepted what Nature gave and worked with it rather than try to "improve" it. It's more similar in some ways to the older vintages of Capitel Monte Olmi, with less concentration, and is a wine that I think will age quite nicely for many years, becoming lacy and ethereal with time, because the necessary acidity is there. If you like cooler vintage wines, seek it out.
93

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lively black cherry ruby with slight orange in the rim; it's slightly darker than the 05 but not quite as dark as the 04. The bouquet is fresh and quite young, with sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sandalwood -- it's not as intense as the 04 but in that cast -- with pleasant greenish vegetal notes and some sandalwood too. On the palate it's ample and rich, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit supported by dark brown sugar sweetness, moderate vegetal acidity, and smooth sweet tannins that have slight vanilla accents to them. Though it's younger than the 04 it's further along, and I didn't have the same peeping into a nursery feeling I had with the 04, though here again we are dealing with a very young wine that has a number of years to go before it begins to come into its own. I would give it at least six years before I even thought about drinking it. But it is nice even now, and if you feel you must, you could drink it with a rich, flavorful stew or with a boiled dinner Veronese style.
91

We followed Capitel Monte Olmi with the basic Amarone della Vapolicella Classico, which isn't at all basic:

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1997
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful and rather sweet, with cherry and sour berry fruit supported by sweetish notes that are balanced by fairly bright acidity too. It's quite powerful, in a charged key, and as it opens intriguing vegetal accents also emerge. Considerable depth. On the palate it's full, with rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean vegetal-laced tannins and fairly bright acidity that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. It's a big wine that nicely reflects the 97 vintage, which was long, hot, and led to very ripe grapes that resulted in wines that are muscular but with slightly less acidity (and therefore definition); it is mature and will drink nicely now with hearty roasts or stews.
2 stars

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 1998
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and very different from that of the 97, with bright almost minty vegetal accents and hints of chocolate that bring to mind an After Eight mint, with underlying cherry and forest berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's rich, with fairly powerful cherry fruit laced with slight plums more than prunes, and supported by pleasant slightly greenish acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright sour plum-prune finish with lasting warmth. It's quite pleasant, in a much more balanced key than the 97; it's still a big wine, and does have the sweetness to it that is a hallmark of Amarone, but isn't over the top, and is quite ready to be drink now, with hearty roasts or grilled meats, and will also work very well with a stew or boiled dinner. It's a bit deceptive, because there is more depth to it than one realizes with the first sip; if you want to follow a simple path it will oblige you, but if you want more facets it has them.
90

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit supported by slight brown sugar and by some dried raisins, and also by delicate vegetal accents. Quite a bit going on, and it opens quite nicely. On the palate it's full, rich, and fairly sweet, with elegant prune fruit that has some date fruit overtones, and is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have slight leafy accents and flow into a clean fresh finish that brings to mind dried leaves. It's quite pleasant and extremely approachable, a wine that will dink nicely now with hearty stews or boiled meats, but that will also age well for many years. It will bring joy to the table, and is a wine that will support what it is served with superlatively, offering you all sorts of things to think about, if you want to, but not taking center stage the way Capitel Olmi would.
92

Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lively black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and rather young, with greenish vegetal accents that bring to mind those of the 06 Monte Olmi, though they are not quite as intense, and yellow peach fuzz too, as well as berry fruit. It makes one feel as if one has walked in upon a girl who was dressing, and though she is presentable isn't quite ready yet. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by date and brown sugar sweetness, and supported by tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a clean bright slightly greenish prune plum finish with savory tannic underpinning. It's surprisingly scrappy for a big wine, and brings to mind the well muscled grace of a classical dancer; one could drink it now with a steak or a roast, but to do so would be an infanticide; it will show much better in another 3-6 years, and will age well for a decade at least.
93

Taken as a group, the Capetel Monte Olmi wines display considerably more finesse than the basic Amarone Classico wines, and this comes as no surprise. What did surprise me a little was the marked difference between the 90s vintages of Capitel Monte Olmi and those made after 2000, which are considerably darker, and also display more concentration and richer fruit -- especially the 2004, which is almost over the top. While I liked the more recent wines, and found them to be more approachable than their older siblings, I found the older wines more interesting; they are more reserved, and demand more concentration on the part of the taster, but I found them to display more finesse and have a little more to say. In short, they are more serious. This may in part be vintage variation; 2004 and 2006 were both fairly hot, whereas the 2005, which was from a cooler, wetter summer, displayed a greater affinity with the older wines.

With regards to the Amarone Classico, I very much enjoyed the 1998, a vintage that received scant attention out of the blocks, as it came on the heels the unendingly sunny, dry 1997 vintage that was at the time haled as the vintage of the decade if not of the century. And it was impressive then, displaying unusual concentration and richness, but with the passage of time it has begun to resemble an aging weight lifter, who is still muscular but no longer boasts the tight physique he had in his prime. The 98, by way of contrast, has emerged with time.

Another Tedeschi Vertical: La Fabriseria

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

This year Tedeschi did things a little differently, presenting, in addition to the current releases, a number of older vintages to underline the aging capacity of their wines. I began with them, and then worked through their more recent vintages. It was a very pleasant hour.

Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit laced with some underbrush and wet leaves, and also pleasing spice with some balsamic accents and leaf tobacco. Nice balance and considerable depth in a rather dusky key. On the palate it's full, round, and quite smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. One wouldn't guess it is close to 10 years old. A child, no longer a babe, with along future.
89-90

Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicolaò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with balsamic accents and some spice; it is clearly from a hotter vintage (August 2000 was as hot as 2003) but is nicely balanced and quite rich. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful jammy fruit supported by lively acidity than is brighter than I expected given the heat of august 2000, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and has a lot to say and share in a slightly more aggressive key, and this is an effect of the heat; while it is quite ready to drink it also has the legs to age well for another decade or more. It's more skittish than the 2001, because of the heat, which affected the ripening of the tannins, and because of this skittishness is a tad more interesting.
90-91

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 1995
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim; The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by some brown sugar sweetness, and by dusky leaf tobacco and spice. Quick to write, but quite harmonious and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit that has some jammy accents and considerable warmth, and is supported by a combination of deft berry fruit acidity and very smooth sweet tobacco laced tannins that flow into a long warm finish with balsamic berry fruit that has some brown sugar sweetness and tobacco mixed into it. Very nice, and beautiful proof of the aging capacity of the wines from Verona, as if there were any need.
92

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Rosso Vino da Tavola Veronese 1998
Deep almandine laced brownish ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Beginning to show its age. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by candied accents and brown sugar, and sweet balasamic notes as well, with some spice, in particular cracked black pepper, and alcohol too. Quite elegant, and has a great lot to say; it's one of those wines one can swish and sniff, and swish and sniff without feeling the need to sip. But tasters must, and on the palate it's ample, with rich dusky cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and sandalwood, and by tannins that are quite smooth and have warm balsamic accents and flow into a clean balsam laced finish that is quite long. Very pleasant, and will drink quite well with roasts or grilled meats, and also has a long ways left to age, though if you let it age further you should be a lover of aged, as opposed to young wines.
88-90

Tedeschi Rosso La Fabriseria Rosso del Veronese IGT 2001
This was made with a small percentage of Cabernet, hence the IGT designation (now the Cabernet is gone, and it's a Valpolicella Superiore). Deep pigeon blood ruby with some garnet accents and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful and spicy, with sandalwood and berry fruit mingled with cedar; the Cabernet adds to the richness but doesn't stand out. A great lot going on in a rich spicy, slightly exotic key, and quite interesting. On the palate it's ample and rich with spicy berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean spicy almost mentholated finish with lasting warmth. Elegant anf quite interesting; the tannins impart a slight dryness that would lead me to drink it with foods rather than far fdrom the table, and with a rich stew it would be about perfect.
2 stars

And Now The Current Wines:

Tedeschi Lucchine Valpolicella Classico 2009 DOC
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with lively floral accents and rich berry fruit supported by strawberry and sandalwood mingled with cherry fruit. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's rich and fresh, with lively berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. A light lark of a wine, which will work nicely with simple grilled meats, or light stews, and will also be a nice accompaniment to meat based pasta dishes or cookouts. In short, versatile, and it will go quite fast. What a basic Valpolicella should be. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Appassimento Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents and considerable white pepper spice. Pleasant in a very young key, and though it clearly will develop, it's inviting now. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by deft brambly acidity and tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a clean greenish berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and though it will develop with time I would almost be tempted to drink it now with a steak, overtones enjoy its freshness. Very nice.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC 2007
Elegant ruby with black reflections and black rim. The bouquet is still developing, but displays warmth and spice mingled with berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. It's coming together, but needs another year to get its bearings. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight Valpolicella greenish burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with bitter accents. It needs at least a year and would be happier with two or more; quite nice and worth seeking out, but do give it some time.
2 stars

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
Elegant black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and very young, revealing berry fruit mingled with spice, in particular cumin seed that opens to reveal bell pepper vegetal accents, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not quite a work in progress, but close. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by greenish bell peppers and pepper acidity supported by dusky spice and acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, but needs time; it will likely become a meditation wine in years overtones come, but will work well in the near future with rich stews or roasts, and Verona's bollito misto also comes to mind..
88-90

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is intense and very young, with cherry fruit supported by licorice root and peppery spice with some sandalwood and also hints of scalded milk -- it's still coming together and needs time. On the palate it's full, and rich, and farly sweet, with lively sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by sweet jammy accents and peppery spice, while the tannins are peppery with some sandalwood and licorice root overtones, and flow into a long fairly sweet finish. Quite charged, and an abundance of power that is still working hard to figure out what to do with itself. It's very much in the air, but will clean up nicely in a fairly sweet (for an Amarone) key and work well with rich stews or roasts. In short, it has a ways to go, and I wouldn't think of opening it before 2013.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2005
Impenetrable black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by clean rather pungent underbrush and considerable sandalwood spice, and also by deft warmth; it's quick to write and very young but also very pleasant, and quite rich in a cooler vintage key in which the fruit is rich but not as ripe as it was in the 2006 vintage. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by clean fresh plum cherry acidity and by considerable peppery spice, while the tannins are sweet, but still quite young, and need another couple of years to develop, at which point they will be drinkable but at the beginning of a long climb. It will have a lot overtones say -- does already -- but really isn't ready yet, and I would give it 3-5 years to come together and expect it to age well for a decade or more. A very fine expression of a cooler vintage Amarone.
90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Just bottled
Deep pyrope ruby with purple reflections and cherry rim. It's younger looking in terms of color register than the 2005, and this is the vintage as much as the wine. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and berry fruit supported by sandalwood and a fair amount of alcohol; by comparison with the 05 there is more fruit and less spice, and Sabrina says this is the direction they are taking; I can't but agree. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich fairly sweet prune and berry plum fruit supported by sweetness and clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Quite pleasant, and I do like the return to more fruit and less spice, which is how I remember Tedeschi's wines in the past, though it needs time. 2-3 years at least, and 5 wouldn't be amiss; it will also age quite well for a decade or more beyond the current 5.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Reciolto della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with deep cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and quite sweet with jammy prune cherry fruit supported by pleasing sandalwood spice and dusky warmth; it's quite harmonious and one could write at length without getting much further than providing more descriptors. In short, it offers a lot to think about. On the palate it's ample with rich prune cherry fruit supported by deft greenish sandalwood acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean prune finish. A beautiful wine that will work very well with cheeses, though its true place is with like minded friends, far from the distractions of the table. Elisabetta Fagiuoli says an Amarone is a bad Recioto, and when faced with a wine like this one realizes she's right.
92-4

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Reciolto della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still developing, but reveals prune and cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish sandalwood spice and some tart accents. Very fine. On the palate it's richer and fresher than the 2005, with more languid cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft sandalwood acidity that flow into a long clean fresh finish that at present is a little dry thanks to the youth of the tannins. But it is promising, a beautiful wine that will have a great deal to say when it has come together.


Tedeschi La Fabriseria Vin De La Fabriseria Passito del Veronese IGT 2005
This is from white grapes and is elegant tawny apricot with brilliant apricot reflections and slight greenish highlights towards the rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite sweet, with greenish notes typical of Garganega and also with petroleum and spice, and bitter honey. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich white berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and by smooth sweetness and languid glycerin that flow into a clean fairly rich finish that carries a degree of acidity, and is thus very much alive.. Very nice, and will work beautifully at the close of the meal, when people have left the table and adjourned to the sitting room.
90

Going back a couple of Years: A Vertical of La Fabriseria

Want to know more about Tedeschi? Visit their Site

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

Last year the Tedeschi Family held a vertical of La Fabriseria , which they had transformed into a Valpolicella Classico Superiore by eliminating the Cabernet that used to go into it, and which was (for me) one of the highpoints of Vinitaly. This year they were simply pouring their wines, and tasting them was a very pleasant hour. Like many producers of Valpolicella, they also have a few whites and we began with those:

Tedeschi Bianco di Custozza 2008
Lot L1
Pale brassy yellow with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with floral accents and heather, mingled with tart white fruit, more pineapple than grapeft. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter minerality laced with heather that flows into a clean bitter finish. Quite direct, and will drink well with cheese or egg based dishes -- say an oniony quiche or frittata -- or with simple grilled fish or white meats. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Tedeschi Soave Classico 2008
Lot L1
Pale greenish white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and some greenish vegetal accents mingled with underripe honeydew melon. Nice balance and inviting in a youthful key. On the palate it's fairly full, with lively minerality and heather supported by tart almost peppery acidity that flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant and will drink well as an aperitif, or with creamy fish dishes -- a fish risotto, for example.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2008
Lot 1B1
This was a vineyard selection, but is now a selection of the best grapes from their Soave vineyards. It's brassy yellow with brassy reflections, and white rim; the bouquet is bright and rich with heather supported by deft greenish acidity and spice from grapes; it displays nice balance and has a fair amount to say. On the palate it's full and rich, with heather and vegetal acidity with underlying minerality that flows into a clean mineral finish with underlying bitterness. Welcoming; it will be nice as an aperitif or with rich first courses, creamy pesto sauces come do mind, as do fish-based pasta dishes and risotti. It will also be apleasant aperitif.
2 stars

Tedeschi Lucchini Valpolicella Classico 2008
Lot b1R
This wine is still made with some Molinara -- about 10% -- and is from their only flat-lying vineyard. It's also what Sabrina Tedeschi likes to drink day to day: Lively ruby with cherry reflections and has a fresh, bright berry fruit bouquet laced with hints of sandalwood and some vegetal accents. Quite refreshing, and inviting, rather like a pretty teen with a challenging stare. On the palate it's fresh, and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity and tannins that are warm, with a clean burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish. An absolutely classic food wine that will drink well with all sorts of things, from quickly grilled meats through red-sauced pastas and fried meats and vegetables. It will also be nice at a cookout, and will go fast.
1 star

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
Lot L1
This is their basic Valpolicella Superiore, and is a lively cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine at the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with pleasant sandalwood laced with red berry fruit, spice, and some cedar; there's nice depth and it's quite elegant in a rather vibrant key. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with lively tart berry fruit supported by warm rather splintery tannins that flow into a warm fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and though it's a touch too tart to be drunk by the glass, it will work quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and will go quickly.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel di Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006
Lot 3b2
The back label says "appassimento breve," in other words the grapes were dried briefly before they were pressed. It's deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich cherry laced with deft slightly greenish sandalwood spice and some hints of licorice root and sugar. Quite elegant in a slightly exotic key, and also quite young. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful greenish sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean rich smooth tannins. Very nice, and the palate confirms the youth of the nose; it will give much now but richly reward those who can give it 3-5 years. In short, a beautiful balance of fruit and acidity, with the acidity slightly to the fore, and this will make for a long life.
88-90

I also tasted a barrel sample of the 2007. It's quite elegant, and brasher, with more acidity (even taking into account its greater youth), and seems a little more nervous. Promises very well, and should age well too.

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2006
Lot L6B4
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with warm red berry fruit laced with sandalwood and alcohol, with hints of licorice root and slight balsamic overtones. Very pleasant and one could sniff it at length; there's something sassy to it. On the palate it's full and rich with lively berry fruit supported by bright mineral and sour cherry acidity, and it all flows into a a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Nice balance between fruit and acidity, with the acidity evident but not overwhelming, and though one could drink it now with succulent red meats it will richly reward those who can give it time. Worth seeking out if you're traditionally minded, and also if you're not.
89-91

I also tasted a barrel sample of the 2007; it's not as dry, and is pleasant, with rich fruit, and I found it a bit more approachable than the 2006. But perhaps less interesting, and less long lived.

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006
Lot 1b1
Lively pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean underbrush. Quite bright and very pleasant to sniff; the Italian word that comes to mind is schietto, which means lively and energetic. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity laced with hints of sandalwood and sweetness, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright finish. It's like a well-muscled dancer who's light on her toes and can do things with ease that the rest of us (me, at least) can only dream of. Most impressive and will work very well with roasts (red meats) or stews, and will also age well for a decade at least. Impressive
90-92

The 2007 barrel sample is bright, with richer, more intense berry fruit and less acidity, and is also smoother and rounder. In other words, a bit more approachable, and less bright, though it does promise well. The difference isn't quite as evident as it is in the two vintages of San Rocco, but it is there.

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Lot 1b2
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with berry fruit alced with sandalwood and alcohol, and bright acidity well supported by greenish accents. It's very young, and coming together, and though it's at the start of a long journey, it is nice. On the palate it's full, rich, and young, with lively underbrush and berry fruit supported by zesty greenish tannins that display a considerable peppery burr and flow into a clean warm finish with peppery overtones. It's a toddler at nursery school, and though one could drink it, it won't begin to show its potential for a few more years, say about 2012.
90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella 2005
Lot 1b3
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is very, very young, and vegetal, with considerable red currant acidity and abundant red berry fruit. It's a toddler who's not happy about being disturbed, and wants to go back to play. But quite elegant in its youth, and promises well. On the palate it's rich, with powerful bright berry fruit supported by spicy acidity and tannins that display a lively burr and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It displays great elegance, but is behind with respect to the basic Amarone, and though this is to be expected it also means that if you must drink a 2005 Tedeschi Amarone now, this isn't the one. It will be spectacular when it gets a ways into its journey but that will take a few years. Expect it to age for 10-15 and perhaps more.
2 stars (now)

Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Lot L1B1
Impenetrable pyrope with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, with prune and forest berry fruit laced with vegetal accents, berry fruit jam, and clean fresh sweetness. Great depth, and a delight to sniff. On the palate it's rich, with deft date-prune fruit supported by deft sweetness and powerful, smooth soft tannins that have pleasant greenish overtones and flow into a smooth greenish sweet finish that continues at length. Graceful, and very pleasant to drink; the Romans made Recioto, and as we taste this one we understand while it still has its devotees today.
90-92

For more information about Tedeschi, visit their site.

Tedeschi's La Fabriseria: A Vertical

La Fabriseria is now Tedeschi's top Valpolicella Classico Superiore, made from Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Dindarone grapes that are allowed to dry for a time after harvesting in a shed in the vineyard, and then pressed, fermented, and aged in large wood.

In the past, however, it was an IGT because it also contained a small percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon -- 3% more recently, and 6% further back, and also went into small wood. This year at Vinitaly the family presented some of the earlier vintages, and it was a beautiful tasting. We began with the most recent, the 2006, and worked back:

La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The nose is rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by licorice root and some greenish accents with hints of almonds as well. Great depth, and rare harmony for a wine so young, and it will clearly climb with time. On the palate it's full, with rich languid red berry fruit laced with some plum sweetness supported by clean slightly greenish spicy tannins that have a core of velvet to them, and flow into a clean bright finish with tannic underpinning. It's quite elegant, but also very, very young, and though one could drink it with rich red meats now (a crown roast comes to mind), it will richly reward those with the patience to let it age for 3'5 years, and continue to grow for at least 10.
90

Rosso La Fabriseria IGT 2003
Deep almandine ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful red berry fruit laced with plums and supported by clean, rich greenish accents and sandalwood supported by spice and some hints of almonds with underlying animal tang that adds depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that derive some of their character from the fact that the wane was made from whole bunches of grapes, and flow into a warm clean tannic finish. Quite nice, and though there is a certain warmth that's ascribable to the 2003 vintage, it displays great depth and control in a fairly young key. In other words, it's still a babe.

Rosso La Fabriseria IGT 2000
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and brownish rim. The bouquet is powerful, with clean animal accents, in particular polished leather, mingled with warmth and alcohol, spice (and jammy accents mingled with plum cherry fruit (a testament of the August heat) and slight wet horse that adds depth. A great lot going on. On the palate it's full and much softer than the 2003, with elegant cherry plum fruit supported by greenish sandalwood laced tannins that are very smooth, and rather languid, and flow into a very clean, rich, fairly sweet finish. A beautiful wine that has much to say.
90-91

With the older vintages, wood use changes from used barriques to new barriques, which surrender more to the wines

Rosso La Fabriseria IGT 1998
Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is clean and rich, with leaf tobacco and raw beef mingled with tar and well polished saddle leather, and some elegant spice supported by acidity and red berry fruit. The palate is full and rich, with powerful red berry fruit supported by bracing acidity and smooth sweet tannins (in part from wood) that flow into a clean sour finish with a beautiful underpinning of fruit. Great elegance, and impressive balance.
90

Rosso La Fabriseria IGT 1997
Deep, almost impenetrable almandine ruby with brownish rim. The bouquet is very rich, with powerful saddle leather laced with coffee and rich cherry plum fruit; rare harmony -- it's like listening to Mozart -- and though it's quick to write there's a lot going on. On the palate it's it's delightful, with rich full red berry fruit laced with some plum that gains direction from deft, delicate forest berry fruit acidity and is supported by ample tightly woven tannins that are very smooth and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. It all comes together, and the result is extraordinary.
95

Want to know more? Tedesci's Site

Tasted at Vinitaly: La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore

Greetings From Vinitaly!The first winery I visited was Tedeschi, whose Amarone and Valpolicella I have always liked. This year they have reclassified their La Fabriseria as a Valpolicella Classico Superiore, in doing so taking a significant step back into tradition. To begin with, the name: La Fabriseria was the council of townspeople who worked with the parish priest on parish affairs, and Antonietta, one of the current younger generation, says the people on this council, including her great grandfather, were all winemakers, and would bring a bottle to each meeting, each trying to bring the best. So meetings of La Fabriseria became opportunities to discuss wines as well, and the Tedeschi family decided to apply the name to their top wines.

This said, until this vintage what is now called La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore contained a small percentage of Cabernet, and was therefore an IGT. Now the Cabernet is gone, and they have also made the decision to ferment the old way, with whole bunches of grapes. In other words, after a brief period of drying, the bunches are looked over and those that are unblemished go into the fermentation tank, stems and all. There is some tannic extraction from the stems, but the tannins are not harsh, and greatly increase the longevity of the wine. After fermentation, large wood.

Enough talk:

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006
Deep cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim. Rich bouquet with ripe berry fruit supported berry fruit jam mingled with warmth, some balsamic notes, underlying sweetness and licorice root; a fellow taster also find almonds. Pleasant in a young key. On the palate it's full, with rich wild berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish spicy tannins that have a steely velvety core, and flow into a clean bright finish with tannic underpinning. It's quite elegant, but also very, very young, and though one could drink it with rich red meats now (a crown roast comes to mind), it will richly reward those with the patience to let it age for 3'5 years, and continue to grow for at least 10.
90