Showing posts with label Roman Restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Roman Restaurants. Show all posts

Thursday, November 03, 2011

Indignados of the Restaurant World: Hope or Utopia?

This time Roberto Giuliani takes the stand:



For once, rather than review restaurants, eateries, hotels, agriturismi, wine shops, pizzeria, bars, historic or newly opened clubs, and so on, let's try to cross to the other side and think about the minimal interaction there is between restaurant personnel and customers. How many times have you found yourself disappointed by the poor quality of the service, dirty restrooms, dishes that don't meet expectations, and, perhaps, even thought about protesting, but then decided to leave be, thinking "I just won't come back, and will warn my friends to avoid this place too."

You might not realize it, but a survey by people who work in the hospitality industry has shown that only 4% of unsatisfied restaurant customers actually protest: most prefer not to make waves, rather saying everything was fine to the people providing the service. This behavior obviously does nobody any good; it doesn't help the establishment to improve, but can on the contrary do it considerable harm, especially now that people can and do "spread the word" on the Internet.

For example, if we enter a restaurant and the waiter delivers the menu orally, why don't we react logically, by asking for a written menu? Why do we accept the idea of eating and drinking "blind," having no idea of what we'll be spending. Do we really believe this state of affairs is normal?

And why, if we visit the restrooms and find them foul and smelly, or even simply lacking such basic necessities as toilet paper, soap, and hand towels, do we emerge disgusted and return to our table without protest? After all, it's quite probable that if the restrooms are horrid the situation in the kitchens won't be much better.

Be it a high-class restaurant, an eatery, or a simple neighborhood pizzeria, certain minimum standards of hospitality must be met, and there can be no excuses. For this to happen, we must take umbrage, and have the courage necessary to voice our discontent, because when we pay we are paying not just for the dishes we eat, but also for the entire framework, including courteous service, a welcoming atmosphere, cleanliness, and clearly stated prices.

Companies (never forget, restaurants are companies, in business to sell a product) whose goal is to provide excellent service do their best to get their customers to express their dissatisfactions, because they know well that this negative feedback can help them improve their service, and will also show that they value their patrons. No patrons leads to bankruptcy, and therefore paying customers play a fundamental role in the survival and qualitative growth of a restaurant.

Here are several requirements I think any restaurant we visit, from the greatest to the most humble, must meet:

Hospitality: It is unthinkable that one enter a restaurant and not be greeted quickly. Even if the place is hopping, the waitperson should signal that he or she will be back as quickly as possible.

Cleanliness: No spots on the flatware, glasses, plates, or tablecloths, no dust, clean functioning restrooms, and if the room lacks windows it must have a ventilation system; the aromas of the kitchen should stay in the kitchen lest they settle in our clothes, and the waiters shouldn't be sweaty, because we know where drops of sweat can land...

Service: Be wary of those who don't provide menus with clearly marked prices but rather speak, forcing us to depend upon memory. Be wary also of those who ask us if we want a wine, and which, before we have decided what we will eat and had time to look at a wine list. The waiters should also be able to describe the dishes, because their names can be based on whimsy, or contain local terms unknown elsewhere.

Waiting Times: This varies, but the time between one course and the next must be reasonable. It's obvious that a complex dish made to order will take longer, but the waiter must warn the customer who orders it.

The Bill: The bill must be a receipt, not a scrawl on a piece of paper. It's our right, and we shouldn't fear being surcharged for asking for it. If we don't fight the custom of paying without receipts, we cannot complain about others evading taxes and thus forcing us to pay more.

Complaints: When we are asked if everything was satisfactory (assuming we are), think about the points listed above, and then answer. There's no need to be aggressive, rather it's important to be precise and say exactly what we found to be amiss. If the waiter (or chef or maitre, depending upon the situation) accepts the criticism as constructive, it's worth coming back. If he doesn't, becoming angry or trying to justify things that cannot be justified, we know we won't be returning unless the management changes. In the meantime, we'll have joined that 4% of the "indignados" that are so important for the restaurant world.

I'll close taking the opportunity to point out a site that provides a fine overview of the rules for good service: http://www.salabar.it


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Wednesday, June 01, 2011

Garantito IGP: I Tre Moscardini, A Seafood Inn in the Heart of Rome

This time Roberto Giuliani takes the stand:



Rome is a fantastic town, as all know, but as is the case with most of the major cities in The Boot, when you are going out you have to know where to go to avoid crushing disappointments. And if you turn to fish things just get worse, especially if you're not in a seaside town.

This is why I am so pleased to be able to discuss a restaurant that opened a few months ago, under a banner that leaves no doubts as to its devotion to fish: Tre Moscadini - Osteria del Mare (The Three Curled Octopuses - Seaside Inn). Itàs located at 25 Via Gallia, in the Appio-Latino district just a few paces from the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano, and is also open for lunch, something alas ever rarer except in the heart of town and the neighborhoods with many office buildings.

Certainly, as Jimmy, a native of Palo del Colle (Bari) who began managing the hall with considerable taste and tact a little more than two weeks ago said, "It's an experiment; since we are newly opened it makes sense to see if there are enough customers to justify opening for lunch." The odd thing is that there isn't a hard-and-fast rule; some days the place fills up and others it stays empty. The area is densely populated with no office buildings, and in the five months they have been open they have come to realize that their patrons are primarily local.

Jimmy made an immediate impression upon me thanks to his ability to quickly and easily settle into a role that I have always thought just as important as work in the kitchens. Relationships with patrons are fundamental, and at least as important as the goodness of the dishes being prepared; the food may be fantastic, but if the atmosphere in the hall is unpleasant you're not likely to return.

This is I Tre Moscardini's first strongpoint, the way they make you feel truly welcome, and it doesn't matter if you're cantankerous (as I discovered first-hand; the people at the next table were not particularly nice). Education, courtesy, and the proper balance between serving professionally, and understanding the personalities of those at the tables.

In the kitchen? Collaboration reigns. Chef Paolo Anelli, another Pugliese (I was pleased to discover that among his prior experiences is the "Uno e Bino" bistrot, which under the direction of my friend Giampaolo Gravina, who has since crossed the divide, becoming a wine & food writer, set the standard for the San Lorenzo district for many years), who has always been at the stove: "I started cooking at the age of three, at that age I knew how to cook pastina, boil an egg, and make coffee for the growups. In short, I knew what I had to." But he isn't alone: Deba, who is from India and was hired to wash the dishes, also contributes significantly, as I found from a the perfect degree of doneness of the mezze maniche seasoned with swordfish ragù I had as a first course, which came on the heels of an antipasto consisting of red tuna sticks dredged in sesame seeds and fried, accompanied by a bell pepper salad seasoned with balsamic vinegar.

The origins of I Tre Moscardini? Dante and Michele are old friends, and while Dante studied ICT (Information and Communication Technology), Michele has long dedicated himself to food, opening and running restaurants throughout Italy. Dante and his wife Barbara had always dreamed of opening a good restaurant, the goal being to find a dimension tastier than virtual reality, and last summer the idea of I Tre Moscardini took shape. The goal is in any case to offer tasty dishes that draw from Italy's rich culinary heritage, preferring substance to appearance, and keeping prices reasonable.

The winelist is more than adequate, obviously concentrating on whites because they are better suited to fish. I chose an old favorite, Marisa Cuomo's Costa d'Amalfi Furore Bianco 2010, which was still very young but with a rich bouquet, and intense savory notes that worked very well with both the antipasto and the pasta, and especially my second course, a tasty grilled calamaro with olive sauce and a potato tart.

Knowing that I'd be taking a walk before getting back into the car, after an excellent strawberry and cream crostata and coffee I treated myself to a couple of grappas, one from Gewürztraminer and the other from Kerner, both distilled by the Cantina di Novacella.

An auspicious beginning, in short, and this certainly won't be my only visit, considering that there are many other exciting dishes on the menu.

Just a few days after my visit Paolo Anelli was joined by Michele Nama, who will be taking his place this week. Michele's professional roots are in central Italy, where he has worked primarily in the Marche, in prestigious hotels including the "Hotel Emilia" in Portonovo and the "Hotel Monte Conero" in Sirolo, two resort town in the Province of Ancona. "I like honest cooking: fresh ingredients and passion at the burners are the only ingredients of a good meal." With this, I'd say another comment from the Tre Moscardini is a must!

I Tre Moscardini - Osteria del mare - Via Gallia, 25 Roma
Hours: Lunch 12.30-14.30; Dinner 20.00-23.00
Closed Wednesdays
Tel. 06-64821164 / 331 9461441
http://www.i3moscardini.it/


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.


We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi