Supertuscans: Are they Or Aren't They?

Supertuscan is a journalistic term born in the 1970s, and this begs explanation: the 1970s were an extraordinarily difficult period for Tuscan winemaking, especially in the Chianti Classico region, to the point that in some ways it's a wonder that winemaking survived at all. Doesn't seem possible today, but then the area was reeling: in the late 50s and early 60s the tenant farmers who had worked the land for centuries abandoned it in favor of better paying manufacturing jobs in cities and towns (and new homes with amenities such as hot and cold running water, which had not yet reached the countryside). The landowners, who had until then lived in the cities and let someone else run things suddenly found themselves forced to make a go of farming, a task for which most were totally unprepared. So they continued to do what the farmers had done, emphasizing quantity over quality.

At the same time, Italy was adopting the Frech AOC system and establishing Denominazioni d'Oridine Controllate, or DOCs to govern the production of the wine. The people writing up the regulations were not winemakers, but rather bureaucrats, so rather than devise a strategy for the future they took a snapshot of the situation at the time, voted to high volume production, and damn near carved it in stone. In Central Tuscany -- Chianti Classico, and Chianti too -- this meant the adoption of the "traditional" red-and-white grape blend said to have been formulated by Baron Bettino Ricasoli, the developer of Chianti: 50 to 80% Sangiovese, 10 to 30% Canaiolo Nero, and 10 to 30% Malvasia and Trebbiano (white grapes), calculated as percentages of vines in the vineyards. The inexperienced landowners read the rules, and since Trebbiano vines (which Baron Ricasoli did not use) produce twice as much as most others, planted as much Trebbiano as they could, assuming that the more Chianti they made the more they would sell. Many were making what was nominally a red wine with 50% white grapes. The stuff didn't age well, didn't travel well, and wasn't well received. Prices plummeted and wineries went with them.

By the late 60s the more forward-looking producers realized they had to do something and began to experiment. San Felice introduced Vigorello, a wine made with just Sangiovese, while Antinori introduced Tignanello, a wine made with Sangiovese and Cabernet aged in barriques, the small oak barrels used by the French. Both wines caused tremendous stirs, and soon others were following their lead. Of course, since these wines weren't made according to the Disciplinare governing the Chianti Classico Appellation they couldn't be called Chianti (the tasting commissioners who did encounter them, when faced with unusual non-Italian varietal flavors and small oak, had fits), nor did they qualify as IGT, and therefore the winemakers called them Vini da Tavola, table wines -- the bottom rung of Italian wine production, which had until then been exclusively jug wine.

There's something seriously wrong in a system in which the winery's best, most innovative, most interesting (and most expensive) wines are classed along side what's sold by the jug, and since the bureaucrats in charge of the appellations were in no hurry to correct the situation (they didn't officially allow French varietals until 1984, but in doing so continued to require white grapes as well), an unknown -- at least to me -- journalist called the extremely good non-appellation wines he was tasting Supertuscans. And the name stuck.

So what, you ask, is a Supertuscan?

It's a wine that is not made following the rules of the appellations governing a given wine region. Or maybe it is; Since 1984 the Chianti Classico Disciplinare has been altered several more times, and now many of the wines that could only be called Supertuscan in 1970 would qualify as Chianti Classico. Including Tignanello, though not Vigorello, which is now a Cabernet-Merlot blend. So why haven't the winemakers whose wines now qualify for the appellation they are made in signed them up?

In some cases because they feel no need to -- Tignanello is quite well enough known as it is, and calling it Chianti Classico would likely have no positive impact on its sales.

In some cases because they don't want to have anything to do with the Appellation; the late Sergio Manetti of Montevertine withdrew from the Chianti Classico appellation because he didn't want to put white grapes into his red wine, and subsequently -- as the changes in the appellation proved him right -- found the quality controls wanting; his son Martino promised him he wouldn't return to the fold and hasn't.

Still others want to be free to do as they want: Giampolo Motta of the Fattoria La Massa started out making Chianti Classico, but felt stifled and left to do his own thing, eliminating Sangiovese from the blend of his top wine, while Tommaso Cavalli of the Tenuta Degli Dei never planted Sangiovese at all.

The bottom line is that a Supertuscan is what the winemaker wants it to be, and its quality is entirely dependent upon the winemaker. Piero Antinori, in presenting a vertical of his famed Solaia, perhaps defined it best: A Supertuscan is not a vaietal wine, because while there are some made from only one varietal, many are blends. It's not a reserve or a selection from an Appellation, because in many cases they don't follow the rules set forth for appellation wines. What it is, is a vineyard wine, one that is consistently excellent and stands the test of time. Anyone can call his wine a Supertuscan, but only a few meet the test of time and truly are Supertuscans.

And Here Are The Wines We Tasted, in a presentation organized by the Biennale Enogastronomica Fiorentina:

Castello di Bossi Corbaia 2004

70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, and pleasant, with savory balsamic accents mingled with leaf tobacco and some dried flowers, and also some spice with underlying vegetal notes, moderate pepper and some greenish notes. Quite pleasant, and deft in a mature key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful decidedly savory minerality with some sour berry fruit underlying it, though it's more about minerality and leather than fruit, and supported by savory notes as well that flow into a bitter finish, while the tannins have a marked burr, and are rather savory. Quite pleasant, and very much alive, though it's not a wine I would want to drink by the glass far from the table -- more of a wine for succulent red meats, and in terms of style it is influenced by the cabernet, which gives it a distinctly international feel, especially in the tannins, which are rather dusky.

90-91

Castello di Gabbiano Alleanza 2004

Primarily Merlot with a dash of Sangiovese.

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections; by comparison with the Bossi it looks younger because the ruby is deeper and less orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with elegant spice mingled with slight iodine accents, green leather, and also black currant fruit Nice balance and considerable depth; it gives a rather lush impression of itself, in a mature key. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by bright slightly mineral acidity that has some leathery accents -- I get an impression of a leather strop for some reason -- and is supported by very smooth tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish -- plum, with some black currant fruit as well. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent, not too fatty grilled meats or roasts.

2 stars

Tenuta Santedame - Ruffino Romitorio di Santedame 2005

60% Colorino and 40% Merlot

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is dusky, with fairly intense bitter greenish accents mingled with some cedar and savory notes, and also slight balsam, with some black currant fruit as well. It's pleasant, and though clearly not a hot weather wine -- it's more savory and mineral with brambly accents -- is pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, with raich savory plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with underlying savory tannic notes and slight hints of balsam; it's quick to write, but quite harmonious, and pleasant to sniff and sip. A pleasant surprise, because the 2005 is rarely this nice.

90-92

Cavalli Tenuta Degli Dei 2007

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Alicante

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite rich, with elegant cherry plum fruit supported by pleasant spice and some leathery notes, and also slight underbrush. Quite young, and very elegant in a decidedly international key; it has a great deal to say and is impressive. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense mineral acidity and by dusky tannins that are very smooth and gain definition from dusky pencil shaving bitterness, and flow into a clean fairly rich plum cherry finish with cedary underpinning. Very pleasant in a rich international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much because it has a great many facets to plumb. Even if you're more towards the traditional end of the spectrum you will find things to appreciate and enjoy. It's also quite young, and will develop quite nicely over the next decade or more.

93-5

Cecchi Coevo 2007

50% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % each Merlot & Petit Verdot

Deep black cherry ruby -- it's almost impenetrable -- with cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up moderate spice and red berry fruit with some balsamic accents; as it opens some cherry plum accents also emerge, together with savory notes. Delicate, and developing. On the palate it's full, and rich, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and by tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean rather savory finish with tannic underpinning. It's the antithesis of Cavalli, a wine that revolves more around tannicity and brashness than smoothness, and is a wine that you will enjoy if you prefer more traditional, more aggressive wines, but will also find things to ponder and enjoy if you prefer the softer more international style.

2 stars

Fattoria La Massa Giorgio Primo 2007

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with deft cherry and black currant fruit supported by some vegetal accents and hints of leather with a fair amount of spice as well; it's quite deft, and has a great deal to say in a fairly rich rather international key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by plum accents, and by tannins that are quite young, and though in part smooth, also have a youthful burr to them, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. It's quite pleasant, in a rather scrappy key, and this is its youth at work; it needs a few years for the tannins to smooth and fold in, though it will drink now with a porterhouse steak and be very nice. In other words, if you're impatient all is not lost But if you have patience, it will give a much better accounting of itself in 3-5 years, and continue to do so for many more years thereafter.

90-92

Montevertine Le Pergole Torte 2007

Sangiovese

Elegant ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim; by comparison with Giorgio Primo it's considerably paler, and this is the difference between Sangiovese and some of the French varietals. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by some floral accents and deft sour cherry acidity. Quite graceful in a delicate, willowy key that does have considerable power behind it as well. It has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, with powerful cherry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by tannins that have a warm youthful burr and flow into a clean savory finish with some sour cherry underpinning. Again, it's very young, and will benefit from further bottle age though one could drink it now with a steak. It's a slightly more brambly expression of Pergole Torte than in some vintages, and this is the nature of the vintage. Quite nice, and if you prefer the traditional style you will enjoy it very much.

93-5

Tenute del Cabreo - Folonari Cabreo Il Borgo 2007

70% Sangiovese, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with powerful black currant fruit supported by some floral accents and wet leather with underlying savory notes and some spice, and also some India ink bitterness. Quite pleasant, and has a lot to say in a very youthful, quite international key. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr that is youth, and flow into a clean cedar laced finish. It's quite pleasant in a decidedly Supertuscanish key -- it's almost an archetype of the style (as is Antinori's Solaia, or the Tignanello that follows here), and though I can hear the 1970s talking to me as I sip it, I like it.

90-91

Tenuta Tignanello - Antinori Tignanello 2007

80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim with slight orange accents. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up cherry plum fruit with some vegetal notes and hints of underbrush, and also clean spice and some savory notes. It's still developing, and needs time. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and bitter mineral acidity, and by tannins that have a cedar laced bitter burr and flow into a rather bitter finish with savory tannic underpinning. It's very young, and needs another couple of years to come together; as is the case with some of the other wines it has a 1970s feel to it, but is quite pleasant and will drink very well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, e.g. leg of lamb.

90-92

Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione 2008

Sangiovese

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections; it's quite dark and this is in part youth. The bouquet is deft, and quite fresh, with violets and some spice mingled with cherry fruit and some ripe plum; there's something luscious about it, though it's clearly a work in progress and needs another couple of years to come together. On the palate it's quite elegant, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity, and smooth tannins that have slight brambly sour notes to them, and flow into a clean sour cherry finish with savory tannic underpinning. Beautiful depth and great finesse; it has been a number of years since I last tasted Carbonaione, and it is just as exciting to me now as it was the last time. If you like the style, which makes no nods to polished smoothness, but rather captures Sangiovese's rather aggressive nature, you will like it very much, and even if you prefer smoother softer wines you will find things to think about here.

93-5

So, do these qualify as Supertuscans?

I would say they do -- they are as a group distinctive, albeit in very different ways, good, and have certainly stood the test of time.

A more important question is, is there still a place for these wines in Tuscany, especially given the swing of the pendulum towards Sangiovese and other autochthonous varietals? Giampaolo Motta said, rather angrily, that he gets frowns and minimization when he tells people that there isn't any Sangiovese in his Giorgio Primo, and I know that some wine journals have downplayed Supertuscans of late.

My reaction to the frowns and the downplaying is that the people doing this are missing the boat. Some of these wines do have a slightly 1970s feel, but that's because they were introduced then, and at the time the use of Cabernet and small oak barrels was so revolutionary that it burned itself into our collective conscience; we continue to associate the flavors and aromas with the first time we met them, and that the wines are still being made now as they were then means they are a success, because the winemakers would not still be making their Supertuscans that way if they didn't sell. Others feel quite different -- Cavalli is riper and softer, with more fruit and less wood, more modern if you will (it is a more recent wine) and Giorgio Primo has tremendous depth, while Pergole Torte simply is.

They can't really be bundled together, except to say that they stand out, both for their quality, and their character.

They are what the winemaker wants to do, and as Vittorio Fiore notes, are also a reaction to the strictures of the Italian Appellations. At the end of the tasting he said, "In Bordeaux the rules take up a single page -- the first lists the varietals that can be used -- 17 or so. Then there's something about yields, and a few more points, but it's all in a page. Here the regulations say how often we should blow our noses in the vineyards. When it comes to agronomy, they say the vineyards should be planted "in the traditional manner," which means that if we plant to high densities, which aren't traditional, a judge could declare us all out of bounds. It's ridiculous."

As is, he added, keeping a winemaker from using the grapes he thinks will give him the best expression of his land. And at this point Giampaolo Motta grinned and applauded.

Tenuta Belvedere and Fattoria Le Sorgenti: Interesting and Unusual Tuscan Wines

Tenuta Belvedere is a historic Tuscan estate located in the hills of Rosano overlooking the left (southern) bank of the Arno River, upstream from Florence in what would be the Chianti Colli Fiorentini Appellation. They have chosen, however, to bottle their red wine as and IGT because of limitations imposed by the rules governing the Appellation (among other things bottle size; they want, and the DOCG doesn't foresee, half-liter bottles).

Though the decision to bottle is recent -- these are their first vintages -- they have always had vineyards; at present they have slightly under 2 hectares in production (1.5 ha red grapes, and 0.2 ha white grapes), all dating to 1970, and trained in the traditional archetto style. They are also retraining an additional 2 hectares of red vines to the Alberello style. Cultivation is strictly organic, and harvesting is manual, while the fermentation merits a few words.

Langravio, their Sangiovese, is fermented in cement without temperature control (a practice also followed by Gianfranco Soldera, who says temperature spikes give nuances one cannot otherwise get), and then aged in tonneaux. Noesis, their white, is instead fermented in orce, terracotta urns, and also aged in them for 8 months. The medium does have an impact; I noted an intriguing minerality of a kind I hadn't encountered before in it and now I know why. Neither wine is filtered.

Bottom line, this is a small estate, and just starting out, but they are doing interesting things and it will be very interesting to follow them as they gain experience and the new vineyard, planted to the Alberello style, enters into production and matures.

Tenuta Belvedere Noesis Toscana IGT 2009
Lot 10-10
This is a blend of the traditional Tuscan white varietals, Trebbiano, Malvasia and San Colombano. It's a fairly charged straw yellow with brilliant reflections and hints of gold in the rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with heather from a Tuscan field and some sage, with fairly intense savory accents as well and some cut Granny Smith apple. Quite powerful, in a muscular sort of way. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense lemony fruit supported by brisk mineral lemon acidity and slight greenish tannins that flows into a long bright citric finish that lasts, and lasts, and lasts, gaining bitter savory accents as the acidity fades. Extremely powerful, but it does display a certain grace as well. It's not a wine I would serve as an aperitif, because it will overpower most antipasti, but it will work well with what follows, especially rich dishes; one could serve it with rich fish or vegetable-based pasta dishes or risotti, but where it will really shine is with flavorful fattier grilled fish, along the lines of salmon, or with fried foods, both fish and meat, and of course fried vegetables. It's particular; if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. But if you prefer softer, more graceful whites, you may find it over the top. Until you pair it with fried chicken and fried vegetables…
2 stars

Tenuta Belvedere Langravio IGT Toscana 2007
Lot 01-09
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Mammolo and Colorino, and is deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim fading to pink. Imposing. The bouquet is powerful, with brooding cherry fruit supported by India ink bitterness and nutmeg spice, while there are also mentholated accents, and as it opens saddle leather and cut tobacco. Nice balance and considerable power. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry fruit supported by deft slightly bitter acidity and by tannins that lay a smooth dusty trail across the tongue and flow into a clean bitter dusty finish. It's still quite young and needs time to finish coming together -- I would give it a year at least, and perhaps two. In terms of style, it is powerful, with considerable extraction and deft oak that has added quite a bit of polish to it while tempering the acidity as well; if you prefer lighter zestier expressions of Sangiovese you may not like it as much, but it is deft, like a well coordinated muscular athlete, and I much appreciated the fact that while the fruit is concentrated, it's not overripe. If you like the style, it will work very well with a porterhouse steak, cooked rare.
2 stars

For more information on the Tenuta Belvedere check their website, http://www.tenutabelvedere.it

Fattoria Le Sorgenti

The Fattoria Le Sorgenti is located upstream of Florence, on the Arno's left (southern) bank, and their vineyards are situated such that they are influenced by the river, which helps to mitigate extreme summer temperatures, while also helping to guarantee good day-night temperature excursions. Though they also produce Chianti Colli Fiorentini, they chose to send me their IGT wines, which also include French varietals; I found them quite impressive, and eminently approachable. They are wines of the sort one puts out at the table, and soon has to replace because they go well with foods, and one's guests have all emptied their glasses and are asking for more. This is, I think, a Good Thing.

They have 16 hectares of vineyards, at altitudes ranging from 100 (Trebbiano and Chardonnay) though 450 (Sangiovese and Merlot) meters above sea level. Cultivation is strictly organic.

And this takes care (in a cursory manner) of the land; what of the fattoria? It began as a farm in the 1300s, and was transformed into a villa in 1585 by Alessandro D'Agostino Gerbi; it subsequently belonged to the Leopardi family, and in 1885 was renamed Fattoria Le Sorgenti because of three springs on the property. The Ferrari Ricci family bought it in 1959, and now Gabriele and Elisabetta Ferrari manage the estate, while their son Filippo sees to the winemaking. Quite well:

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Sghiràs Toscana Bianco IGT 2006
Lot 1 08
This is a blend of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, and is brassy gold with golden reflections and white nail. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with a great rush of savory butterscotch mingled with prominent gooseberry and some tropical fruit, and supported by savory accents and some savory mineral acidity. Nice balance in a very charged international key. On the palate it's ample, elegant, and more languid than I expected, with fairly rich minerality supported by moderate mineral acidity and by butterscotch laced bitterness that flows into a clean bitter mineral finish that's quite long. Pleasant, and will drink nicely as an aperitif with rich antipasti, or with flavorful, but not oily grilled fish, for example a sea bream. It will also be nice with soft, not too pungent cheeses such as Taleggio or Camembert, and dishes that include them as an ingredient, and I would be tempted to serve it with vegetable tarts, sformati, and similar, and igf you want to look further afield, sushi. Quite nice, and if you like the style, you will enjoy it; the oak is apparent but not predominant.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Sghiràs Toscana Bianco IGT 2007
Lot 2 09
Brassy gold paling to white nail. The bouquet is quite intense, and much fresher than that of the 06, with floral accents and more intense tropical fruit than the 06 -- papaya and hints of mango -- that balance gooseberry, which here finds itself in a duet rather than a starring role, while there are savory cedar notes from wood and some greenish butterscotch too. Zesty, in a fairly rich international key. On the palate it's ample and languid, with clean minerality that has slight hints of gooseberry and tropical fruit, and is supported by mineral acidity and clean butterscotch bitterness that flows into a moderately long finish. It's more delicate than the 2006, and will consequently work better with more delicate antipasti or with slightly lighter main courses; I would be tempted to serve it with steamed or boiled fish,
2 stars

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Gaiaccia Toscana IGT 2006
Lot 2 09
This is a blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, and Alicante, a varietal closely related to Grenache that contributes to color and complexity. The wine is deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Its bouquet is intense and fresh, with cherry fruit supportred by India ink -- almost quinine bitterness with graphite shavings as well, and as it opens spicy notes and cassis. Pleasant in a clean fruit driven key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cassis fruit supported by spice and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight peppery burr, and flow into a clean fresh cassis finish that gains depth and direction from graphite shaving bitterness, and reveal some leafy underbrush as the fruit fades. It's pleasant and quite approachable, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a few years. Though I might drink it now to enjoy its freshness. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and if you like wines of the international style it's worth seeking out.
88-90

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Gaiaccia Toscana IGT 2007
Lot 1 09
Deep pigeon blood ruby with purple-violet rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and cassis fruit supported by wet leather and spice, and by pleasant freshly ground back pepper. Zesty in a cheeky sort of way. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry fruit supported by dusky cedar laced tannins and moderate underbrush with some wet leather graphite bitterness that flows into a clean fresh cassis finish with underlying bitterness. It's not quite as rich as the 2006, and this is vintage variation; by comparison it's a bit more nervous and a bit more bramly, and while this will make it less pleasant to drink by the glass, the brambly accents of the tannins will work quite well with quickly grilled meats or light stews, and also be nice with more powerfully flavored meats, for example lamb chops.
2 stars

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Scirus Toscana Rosso IGT 2005
Lot 2 07
This is a Taglio Bordolese, a Cabernet Sauvignon - Merlot blend, and is almost impenetrable pyrope deep black reflections and cherry in the rim. The bouquet is powerful and dusky, with jammy berry fruit, cassis and cherry, supported bys savory underbrush and intriguing spice, which has hints of well salted grilled pepper to it, and also by hints of gum Arabic and cedar. Nice balance and considerable depth in an international key. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry cassis fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate more mineral than fruit cidity, while the tannins are smooth and have a slight cedar backing, and flow into a clean fresh finish with bitter graphite shaving undertones. It's quite pleasant and quite approachable, and a fine expression of the 2005 vintage, which was cooler; the fruit isn't as intense as it might be in a better vintage, but they accepted this and worked with it rather than trying to bulk up the wine by other means (e.g. concentrators or new oak), and the result is rather graceful. A fine wine to open with a steak or a crown roast, which will bring much happiness to a special meal, and worth seeking out if you like wines of the more international style.
88-90

Fattoria Le Sorgenti Scirus Toscana Rosso IGT 2006
Lot 2 08
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with cedar and grilled belle pepper mingled with cherry fruit and some vinous warmth, also dusky brooding aspects. It's pleasant but still coming together, and will profit from another year of bottle age at this stage. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry cassis fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and dusky dried leafy underbrush, and by deft tobacco laced mineral acidity, while the tannins are already smooth and silky, and flow into a clean rich cherry finish with slightly bitter tannic underpinning. Impressive, and very pleasant to drink; one could drink it already but would be mistaken to do so because when the nose catches up with the palate it will be fine indeed, in a rich fruit driven but not opulent nor overripe key, and will also age nicely for 5-8 years at least. It will be very nice with grilled meats or hearty roasts, and will also work well with game, for example stewed wild boar. Worth seeking out., but do give it the time it needs.
90-91

For more information on the Fattoria Le Sorgenti, which also offers beautiful accomodations just a short distance from Florence, see their site, at http://www.fattoria-lesorgenti.com.