Garantito IGP: Byodynamic Primitivo di Manduria -- Lisa Gilbee and the Defence of the Alberello Style

This time Luciano takes the stand:

Lisa Gilbee and Gaetano Morella came to biodynamics though love. First of all that that grew between a young Australian winemaker who came to Italy for a stage, and later for their children, who were enrolled in the Sternian school of Manduria, the only one of its kind in the South. Thus, from the need to raise their children well came the desire to leave the lands they bought in Manduria better than they found them.

To begin at the beginning, in conventional agriculture grass between the vines is the first sign of abandonment. In biodynamic agriculture it instead indicates healthy soils.

Gaetano has me get into his car and we slowly leave the cement of Manduria to enter, as if in a dream, in vineyards, them Mediterranean scrub forest, and finally among the Alberello, or bush-pruned vines that yield 20-25 quintals per hectare , except in 2011, when yields dipped below 20 for the first time.

Lisa and Gaetano settled upon bush pruning because it is only by concentrating on the biodiversity present in the vineyards that one can think of the future in the currant, ever smaller global wine market. The relationship between bush and espalier pruning is the same as that between stone and cement houses. In other words, since the 60s cement has become popular because it's more practical, less expensive, and often dominated by organized crime, and therefore has devastated the hearts of a great many historic cities and towns. In like manner, the Alberello system is being fought by the authorities, who finance those who rip it out and replant to the spalleira system.

It is obvious that the selection of the pruning system shouldn't be dictated by ideology, but just as obvious that it shouldn't be legislated. Rather, it should be dictated by the land, climate and wine that one wants to make.

Now, with their more than 14 hectares, which are almost all together in a single block, they have the largest vineyard area in Manduria. And to return to our architectural simile, their situation is that of a stone house surrounded by cement buildings in a city.

Gaetano, son and grandson of farmers, says that their goal is to return to the craft practiced by his grandfather, following the foray into chemistry of his father's generation. Organic and conventional are not that different in terms of mindset, because they both expect the plants to feed themselves regardless. Byodynamics instead give the vines the opportunity to do so, but don't force it.

From their land in rural Manduria Lisa and gaetano make Primitivo Old Vines, a wine of considerable energy that is quite long lived, evolving with time.

In 2008 it was declared a Slow Wine. We enjoyed the 2009, which was still aging in bottle, as its release is scheduled for this July.

Oak and fruit are well integrated, the nose is rich with heady ripe fruit, hints of Mediterranenan scrub forest, and carob. On the palate it displays terrific energy, freshness, and length; it's concentrated but not heavy, sweet but not cloying, and has a long pleasantly dry finish that makes it easily pairable with foods.

Lisa and Gaetano's new project, given how packed they are in their garage sized cellar, is to build something new in the heart of the vineyards, to give their Primitivo an even better opportunity to express itself in a manner that's not forced, but rather natural, direct, immediate, and clear.

Another story of the South, where the vineyards make the best of its drawbacks: stubbornness and individuality.


Published Simultaneously by IGP, I Giovani Promettenti.

We Are:
Carlo Macchi
Kyle Phillips
Luciano Pignataro
Roberto Giuliani
Stefano Tesi

Tasted at Radici: Morella

Last year in the course of Radici we went on an interminable bus tour (the driver got lost), the high point of which (and it was most definitely a high point) was a visit to Morella, a tiny winery a few km southwest of Manduria, to see old growth Primitivo trained to the Alberello, or shrub style.

It was quite instructive to wander the vineyards, looking at the gnarly vines while Lisa Gilbee, an Australian winemaker who came to Puglia to work about 10 years ago and fell in love (with the land, but more importantly, with Gaetano), told us what she was doing, tales that made us all the more eager for dinner, where she would be presenting several vintages of her Primitivo. They were beautiful, in a vigorous very modern style.

This year Lisa and Gaetano came to Radici to present their wines, and I spent a very profitable hour tasting, talking and learning.

Morella Mezzogiorno Bianco IGP Bianco Salento 2010
Pale brassy white with breassy reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and some greenish notes mingled with honeysuckle and some spice. Graceful; nice depth and very fresh, and as it swishes some minerality also emerges. On the palate it's delicate, with nice white berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by deft savory accents with a warm burr that flow into a clean fresh fairly mineral finish. Quite pleasant and will be a versatile food wine.
2 stars

Morella Primitivo - Negroamaro Terre Rosse IGT Salento 2008
This is a blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro, the grapes, which are harvested plot by plot (thus allowing her to tell exactly what each plot is like), are pressed using a basket press and fermented in upright conical wood vats. There's no filtration, only racking. Returning to the wine, it's deep, almost violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and some spice at the outset, and as it opens elegant berry fruit, a mixture of fairly tart cherry and plum, emerges. Gives an impression of fullness. On the palate it's rich and full, with bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and smooth tannins that do display a slight greenish burr and some peppery accents, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Nice depth in an international key and quite bright; it's very approachable and will work very well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Morella Primitivo - Malbec Terre Rosse IGT Tarantino 2008
This is an IGT Tarantino because the Tarantino Disciplinare allows for Malbec, which was planted in Puglia after the Phylloxera outbreak to make bulk wine to sell to the French. Though Malbec is no longer an important varietal in Puglia some has survived, and they have enough in their vineyards for it to contribute 15% to the blend. The wine is deep almandine with almandine rim, and has a fairly intense bouquet with spice and berry fruit supported by some cedar, with underlying acidity. The Malbec, despite it's being a relatively small percentage of the blend, has a profound impact, adding verve and bite to the Primitivo. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with nice cherry plum fruit supported by deft greenish acidity and peppery spice, while the tannins are smooth and peppery and flow into a clean peppery finish. It's quite approachable, and will work well with red meats; for example grilled or roasted leg of lamb or even lamb chops.
2 stars

Morella Old Vines Primitivo 2007
This is from 80 year-old vines trained to the Alberello style. Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with vegetal notes and plum fruit supported by spice and cedar; it's fairly harmonious but also very young, and though the energy is there it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a savory cedar underpinning and considerable warmth, and flow into a long warm cedar-laced finish. A beautiful expression of Primitivo in an international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer the more traditional style it won't work as well for you, though you may find yourself reevaluating it with time because it will age quite well.
90

Morella La Signora Primitivo 2007
This is from a contiguous vineyard they now own; the vines are planted to the Alberello system but are only 60 years old, and are a different clone than those of the Old Vines. Almandine with brick rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with peppery spice and some cherry plum fruit mingled with balsamic accents. Quite elegant, in a brighter key than the Old Vines, with more berries and cherries than plum. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sandalwood laced tannins and fairly bright warm acidity that flows into a warm berry fruit finish; it has redder fruit than the Old Vines, and is also somewhat more savory, but is equally elegant, and which you prefer will depend upon your personal tastes.
88-90

Morella Old Vines Primitivo 2001
This was their first vintage, and was poured from a Magnum. Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit supported by quite a bit of cedar and some greenish accents; it's much more oaky than the more recent vintages. On the palate it's full, with rich powerful berry fruit supported by warmth and peppery cedar-laced tannins that flow into a long warm berry fruit finish. Pleasant in an international key, and has held very well, showing considerable potential and fruit. It's interesting to note how Lisa has backed away from oak since this vintage -- the 2001 had terrific fruit that shoulders the oak well, where a less good vintage would have been overwhelmed. Then she was clearly very good at her job, but doing what she knew worked (elsewhere) in new surroundings. Now she has a much better feel for Puglian terroir and varietals, and her touch is ever much defter.
2 stars

Morella Mezzanotte Rosso IGT Salento Rosso 2010
This is something in a different direction, made by leaving Primitivo on the vines longer to obtain jammy notes, and harvesting it together with Petit Verdot, Cabernet and Negroamaro (about 30% in all) and fermenting the resulting wine in cement. At least this was the plan; this year it rained, forcing her to harvest a little sooner than she's have liked, and to compensate she put some of the wine in oak. But the goal remains a different style of Primitivo. Deep ruby, with a fairly rich bouquet that has red berry fruit supported by vegetal accents and some spice, and also by minerality and floral accents,. With, as it opens, some savory tobacco leaves too. Pleasant and fresh. On the palate it's full, with bright rich plum cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and savory notes mingled with some underbrush and fair warmth, and by sweet peppery tannins (the Cabernet, remember) that flow into a long fruit laced finish. Quite approachable and a fine food wine that will work very well with grilled meats or light stews; it's quite fruit forward, and while the Primtivo lays the foundations the other varietals provide depth and character, and also help to lower the total alcohol levels. Impressive for a first vintage, and future vintages will be interesting to follow.
2 stars

Want to know more: Morella's Site