Chianti Rufina and Cool Climate Pinot Noir from Ontario

This year the folks at the Chianti Rufina Consorzio once again asked Ian D'Agata to present their wines, and he once again proved himself to be a fine speaker with an excellent understanding of the appellation.

Chianti Rufina is a small area with a small number of wineries, and therefore is fairly uniform, much more so than the other Chianti areas, including Chianti Classico. With respect to the other Chianti zones it's the highest, with lively acidities, and, Ian says, a lighter textural feel in the mouth. I'm not sure that's universal, but taken as a group the Chianti Rufina wines do tend to revolve around finesse and elegance, with structures that are, yes, steely, but delicate rather than massive.

The comparison with Burgundy they held last year was a great success, so this year they thought to pair Chianti Rufina with another Pinot Noir, and suggested a selection of wines from Oregon; while Ian agreed that they were good he felt and Oregon's wines to be nice but not equivalent, rather with more fruit and more alcohol than Rufina. In terms of an equivalent, he suggested Pinot Noir from Ontario.

Ontario, towards the shore of Lake Ontario, is well suited to cool weather varietals such as Pinot Noir and Riesling, and Ian grew up tasting them; he said the first clones planted were so-so, and remembers the wines from the 70s as "hideous," but since then better clones have been planted and things have improved considerably. There are four appellations in Ontario: Niagara, Prince Edward County (where vines were first planted more than a century ago), Pelee Island, and Lake Eerie North Shore. The best, are Prince Edward County and Niagara, where they are now working to identify subappellations.

My impression of the comparison was the same I had last year, and I will quote it:

How do Rufina and Pinot Nero compare? Not particularly well. Pinot Noir revolves primarily around finesse; it's an essential wine that would be too much were one to add a jot, and not enough were one to remove one. In other words, it's a balancing act, suspended high above the ground. Sangiovese and its allies in Rufina work in a different direction, displaying finesse, but also power, and playing off a balance between fruit, acidity and tannin that is very different from what Pinot does, but not necessarily inferior. If one were to borrow from the musical world, Burgundy grabs an instrument and plays a solo (for some reason the clarinet comes to mind), whereas Rufina gathers a group of instruments and plays a concerto. Very different expressions, but both can be sublime.

We tasted Rufina wines from 2008, and Ontario wines from 2009. Two similar vintages, both cooler, and with more elegance than usual. 09 was a very good vintage for Ontario.

To begin, six Rufina wines from the 2008 vintage

Casa Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Deep cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, and spicy, with a fair amount of alcohol, cherry fruit, graphite shavings, bitterness, and dusky notes; there's nice depth, freshness and finesse. Young. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright acidity and tannins that have a slight burr, flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Considerable finesse, which predominates over power, and elegance. Quite pleasant to drink and will also age nicely for 8-10 years at least. Something to seek out if you like the style, which is not lush, nor overly polished and smooth. Despite the presence of 8% Cabernet Sauvignon it has a more traditional feel, with brambles in the tannins.
90-91

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Castello di Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Deep black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with cherry fruit supported by some bitterness, spice, slight greenish acidity, hints of dried mushroom, underbrush and sea salt. On the palate it's medium bodied, and deft, with bright berry fruit supported by smooth slightly mineral acidity and polished smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry finish that's quite long, with some greenish vegetal accents. The Italian word that comes to mind is ruffiano, which means ingratiating -- it's very approachable, quite pleasant to drink, and if you are unfamiliar with Chianti Rufina and are coming from an international perspective provides a good introduction to it.
90

Podere il Pozzo Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Lively almandine rim with almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, and brambly, with some berry fruit but more bramble, some heather, acidity that brings to mind a hot summer day, some spice, and as it opens hints of wood smoke. On the palate it's ample and fairly smooth, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. Pleasant, and nicely combines smoothness with finesse, more polished than the Le Coste and as a result slightly more approachable.
90-91.

Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and dusky, with graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, some alcohol, and minerality more than fruit. Elegant in cool weather key, and as it opens some iodine emerges. On the palate it's ample, and smooth, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by bitter graphite shaving minerality and some spice, and by a fair amount of alcohol and sea salt. Nice balance in a more mineral key, and suggests cooler temperatures. Indeed, we were told it is from a higher part of the appellation. I liked it, though some tasters found it more mature than they wanted it to be.
2 stars

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intensely oaky, with cedary oaky sweetness mingled with spice and some berry fruit, though cedar overshadows all, allowing also some balsamic notes and some gum Arabic with underlying alcohol. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderate fruit overshadowed by cedar in the tannins, and supported by minerality and duskiness more than acidity, flowing into a long cedar laced finish with underlying bitterness oak colors all and directs the wine. Not my style.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva 2008

This vintage was difficult for them -- quite damp to begin with and the peronospora mold struck. Then temperatures jumped in Aug-September, and led to a degree of ripening that surprised them. Pale almandine ruby with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with berry fruit supported by sea salt and some savory notes, also by bramble and slight lathered horse and some balsamic notes. Pleasant in a rather distant, slightly rustic very traditional key,. On the palate it's deft, with bright berry fruit supported by some jammy accents I didn't expect, moderate acidity, and tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean rather bitter savory finish with some jammy notes from fruit. It's past the coming together phase but is very young, and is still tentative; with age it will be quite elegant in a lacy ethereal key, but it needs a few years to get there.
88-90

Six Canadian Wines from the 2009 Vintage

Malivoire Mottiar Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2009

Pale pinkish ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by minerality and sea salt with some underlying spice, and savory notes with hints of cumin. Quite graceful, though it does have a something about it -- not quite simplicity -- that suggests vine youth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a dusky burr and savory notes, and slight greenish accents, and flows into a bright tannic sour berry fruit finish Quite elegant and a very fine expression of pinot noir. Very young vines, planted in 2005 and this is the second vintage.
88-90

Cave Spring Cellars Estate Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2009

Pale ruby, almost a dark rosé, and in this quite classic, with white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with cool savory berry fruit supported by dusky citric acidity and by brambly greenness with mint and balsam, some graphite shavings too. On the palate it's bright, with clean fresh sour cherry fruit supported by bitterness and sour brambly accents, and flow into a clean brambly finish Quite pleasant, and extremely elegant; it has a lot to say and will be much more interesting in a few years than it is now.
90-92

Flat Rock Cellars Gravity Twenty Mile Bench Pinot Noir 2009

Pale translucent brick ruby with pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather wild, with bramble and sea salt supporting some fruit and citric acidity with strong underlying greenish accents and petroleum. Interesting, in a more demanding key, and more distant than the others. On the palate it's smoother than expected, with bitter petroleum laced berry fruit supported by tannins that have gunflint bitterness and flow into a bitter mineral finish with petroleum and fruit that lasts and lasts. We're not in Kansas any more, said Dorothy, and we're not in Rufina either. A world apart.
92

Flat Rock Cellars Bench Pinot Noir Reserve 2009

This is a selection of the barrels, the remainder goes into Gravity. Translucent brick ruby that's slightly darker than the other Flat Rock wine. The bouquet is deft, and more mineral, with spice and greenish accents supporting spice and some greenish vegetal acidity. Nice depth and elegance, a touch more restrained than the base wine, as if it were gathering its strength. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit supported by considerable savory bitterness and spice, and by tannins that are smooth and have a rather bitter finish. It's more graceful than Gravity, and also has more spine, and with time may do more interesting things, but I found myself preferring Gravity's brash zestiness in some ways. It's a toss up, and which you will prefer depends upon your stylistic preference. Both are quite good, and it is very interesting to taste between them. The Reserve is more graceful, and displays more finesse.
93

Norman Hardie Prince Edward County Pinot Noir 2009

Pale translucent ruby with white rim. The bouquet is deft, with minerality and red berry fruit supported by savory notes and some bitterness; it's a bit less acidic (though still acidic) than the Niagara wines but displays considerable grace. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity, and by clean tannins that have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Very pleasant, showing considerable finesse, though you have to like high acidity wines to enjoy it.
90

Norman Hardie L Pinot Noir 2009

This is a blend of several Niagara and prince Edward fruit, made in the best years. A combination of the finesse of Prince Edward County and the richness of Niagara. Pale pink ruby with dusky black reflections and white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with savory berry fruit supported by some balsamic notes, dusky acidity, some menthol, and some savory acidity as well laced with hints of cumin and wet bark. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish burr and slight splinter, and by pleasant greenish acidity that flows into a clean bright savory finish with brambly bitterness. Enjoyable, with considerable finesse, and will drink quite well with foods. Versatile too.
93-4

One thing to note about the Canadian wines is that they are all about 12% alcohol. The Italian wines tend to have more, and it would be nice to see them return to this level.

Two Older Wines

Castello del Trebbio Chianti Rufina Riserva 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. Looks younger than 8. The bouquet is elegant, with berry fruit supported by dusky underbrush and spice, some cherries, some alcohol, and slight sweetness as well. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by fairly bright acidity, and by tannins that have a dusky graphite shaving burr and flow into a clean fairly long bitter finish. Quite impressive, and graceful, with a great deal going on, though it is just entering maturity and has a long route ahead of it, is already very pleasant to drink. Extremely enjoyable.
92-3

Cave Spring Cellars Estate Beamsville Bench Pinot Noir 2002

Pale brick ruby with black reflections and brownish almandine paling to white in the rim. The bouquet is interesting, with a rich of white truffle and spice with some cheesy accents that bring formaggio di fossa to mind, mingled with savory notes and some spice; with time graphite shaving minerality also emerges. On the palate it's full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by red currant acidity and some spice, and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with some fossa notes. Pleasant, and after taking a sip the fruit becomes more apparent on the nose; it's graceful but a bit reserved, with less acidity than the younger wines and I don't think this is just greater age at work, but rather development of winemaking technique as well. Very nice however, and impressive, a wine one can converse with.
90-91

The Next Morning, November 12, We Returned to Taste Chianti Rufina

The wines are in the order the vintage wines (2010) were poured in.


Azienda Agricola Frascole

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is rich, with fresh cherry fruit, brambles, dusky bitterness, graphite shavings, some violets, and black pepper spice; it's quite fresh with nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some greenish accents and fairly rich brambly acidity that flows into a clean spicy bitter tannic finish. Freshness and finesse in a glass, and worth seeking out.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense and quote mineral, with spicy minerality supporting rather dusky cherry fruit that has slight sweetish jammy accents, and a degree of alcohol that also contributes sweetness. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright strawberry laced berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and though it is still coming together, especially on the nose, it will go places, and display considerable finesse when it has arrived.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Il Prato

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with some bramble and moderate berry fruit mingled with some greenish accents, slight green leather spice, and with time the bramble gains in intensity. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate berry fruit that has some sweetish accents, perhaps related to alcohol, and flows into a fairly sweet bramble laced finish. It has an oddly dilute feel to it, and some of the fullness may be alcohol. I'd have liked more fruit.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky graphite shaving bitterness and minerality more than fruit at present. On the palate it's light for a Riserva, with dusky moderately intense fairly savory berry fruit supported by tannins that have a warm splintery burr that flows into lasting savory warmth. I'd have liked more depth and verve.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Travignoli

Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets mingled with dusky bitterness, some cherry fruit, slight jammy accents, and some wet paint. On the palate it's medium bodied and rather splintery, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly long warm splintery finish. It needs another year for the tannins to fold in, but is pleasant in a rather slender key, and made me think. I like that in a wine.
2 stars

Villa Travignoli Tegolaia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy plum cherry fruit supported by some iodine and graphite shaving bitterness, also some wood smoke. On the palate it's ample with moderate fruit supported by minerality and some sour berry fruit acidity, flowing into a fairly quick finish that settles into splintery tannins. It's fairly direct, and gives an impression of trying hard but I found the fruit to be somewhat lacking; in its defense it is very young and still coming together; it may do interesting things with time because there is a certain finesse to it. We shall see.
2 stars

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with camphor and cherry fruit supported by some gunflint bitterness, some acidity, and minerality. Brooding, On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by splintery tannins that flow into a fairly quick finish. Direct, and up front.
1 star

Azienda Vinicola Le Coste Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009
Black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spicy cherry fruit supported by minerality, some black pepper, a fair amount of alcohol, some spice, and greenish accents. On the palate it's moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that are moderately intense, and flow into a clean slightly greenish strawberry finish. My initial impression was so-so, but it grew on me, and though it isn't long on complexity I found it enjoyable because of its freshness. Personal preference.
2 stars

Cantina Sociale VI.C.A.S

Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with prune cherry fruit supported by some metallic brambly accents and some spice. Wet tree bark too. On the palate it's medium bodied, with dusky bitter cherry fruit with sour cherry-red currant acidity, while the tannins are light and rather glancing. Pleasant in a lighter key, and a nice fresh food wine of the sort one can set out with the certainty that it won't fight the food; its acidity is enough for fried foods, and you may want a second bottle.
2 stars

Cantine F.lli Bellini

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep cherry ruby with black rim. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up some berry fruit and moderate spice, but it's clearly still coming together. On the palate it's pleasant, in a light key, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by greenish brambly acidity and splintery tannins that flow into a warm splintery tannic finish. Expect it to go quickly. A Food Wine.
2 stars

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and iodine mingled with spice and a fair amount of alcohol, not much fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense with some cherry fruit supported by dusky sour cherry bitterness and a fair amount of alcohol, some sea salt, and tannins that are rather splintery. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more fruit to fill out the structure.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Dreolino

Casa Vinicola Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky with graphite shaving bitterness mingled with some cherry fruit and peppery spice. Displays some distance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately bright cherry fruit supported by dusky tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness and also by some brambly acidity, and flows into a dusky finish. Pleasant in a rather brooding mineral key.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Dreolino A Gino Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with graphite shavings and some iodine supported by spice, sea salt and some berry fruit with a brambly underpinning. Scrappy. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards light, with cherry and forest berry fruit supported by warmth and some dusky acidity, also tannins that are a touch blocky. I would have expected a little more; in its defense it is quite young and will with time become rather ethereal; it is more about finesse than power.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents, lactic acid, some red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a slightly milky feel to them and moderate mineral acidity. It's still up on the air, needs time to come together and develop.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and smoky, with quite a bit of sea salt, some balsamic warmth, and slight lathered horse; it's more rustic than I have found wines from this winery to be in the past. Not much fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity that is also rather balsamic, and by tannins that are warm and splintery, and flow into a clean balsam laced splintery finish. It's frankly traditional, something I hadn't encountered in Basciano before, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Fattoria di Grignano

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Lively cherry ruby with white rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight berry fruit -- still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively brambly cherry fruit supported by strawberry and red currant acidity, some spice, and by tannins that are rather splintery, with some savory accents, and flows into a splintery tannic finish. Scrappy, pleasant in lively aggressive key Will go quickly if you like style
2 stars

Fattoria Il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi

Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit, some cherries, spice, and graphite shavings. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense sour raspberry acidity with strawberry overtones, while the tannins are fairly light and smooth, with hints green leather, and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish sour berry fruit finish.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Capitano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections paling in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cherry fruit supported bys some cedar and spice, and moderate sweetness that's also alcohol, with some underlying greenish accents. On the palate it's brighter than I expected, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by brambly mineral acidity and tannins that are smooth and glancing, with some greenish brambly accents. Pleasant in a traditional key, and displays a degree of finesse that will likely increase with time. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Lago

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black almandine with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky berry fruit laced with graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, slight laundry soap, greenish notes, and hints sweetness. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderate berry fruit supported by leathery accents and some underbrush; the acidity is warm and mineral, and there is some spice, while the tannins are dusky with some bitterness and some underbrush to them that brings wet bark to mind. Finish fairly long. Will develop ethereally.
2 stars

Fattoria Il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Pale cherry with some orange in the rim; it's surprisingly light for a Riserva.. The bouquet I unusual, with paint thinner -- for want of a better descriptor -- mingled with cherry fruit. Odd. The palate is warm with greenish berry fruit that is supported by moderate acidity and tannins that become surprisingly green with candied accents. A fellow taster mutters about grape juice, and whatever one says, it's not what I expect from a Chianti Rufina Riserva; the aromas and the fruit are going in different directions.
No star

Fattoria Lavacchio

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry with black and white rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some minerality. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by some greenish acidity and bouquet tannins that are fairly strong with a bright youthful burr; it's very young but has nice balance in a solid muscular key and will also age nicely for a number of years.
2 stars

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar, nice depth and expression in a slightly dusky international key. On the palate it's full and oakier oaky, with berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and some spice that flows into a chocolate and cocoa laced finish. It's the oakiest of the wines presented, but with respect to past vintages shows some restraint, enough that the fruit emerges, and if you like the style, it will do interesting things in a frankly modern key with time. Give the oak a year or two to fold in, however.
2 stars

Marchesi Gondi - Tenuta Bossi

Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by spice and some greenish brambles, slight leaf tobacco and some minerality. Elegant in traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with bright strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by dusky bitterness and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and fairly rich flowing into a clean fruit laced finish. Quite pleasant and will drink very well.
2 stars

Marchesi Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with violets and red berry fruit that are surprisingly fresh for a Riserva, supported by spice and some delicate slightly mentholated acidity. Interesting and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's bright, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a fairly long warm finish with berry fruit underpinning. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will with time display considerable finesse and elegance -- it has the latter down already, though it will increase, and is working on the former.
88-90

Colognole

Colognole Riserva del Don Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Elegant deep slightly orange cherry with some almandine in rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by green leather and spice, and also by considerable bramble; it's quite elegant in an austere key. On the palate it's full and smooth with dusky sour cherry fruit supported by considerable bitterness and sour berry fruit acidity, and tannins that have a warm dusky burr with some cedar bitterness, and flow into considerable warmth. Very young but pleasant, and will do quite interesting things with time.
2 stars

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with mentholated cherry fruit supported by dusky spice and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young but elegant in a fruit driven key. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly splintery sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are warm and splintery and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish Quite pleasant, and though it needs another couple of years to come together, and will display considerable finesse when the various components have fully melded.
2 stars

Marchesi De'Frescobaldi Vigneto Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim tending overtones orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit mingled with greenish spice and some hints of paint thinner, and also a dusky cedary underpinning. On the palate it's ample, with warm sour cherry fruit that has some greenish acidity and is supported by tannins with a greenish cedary overlay, and flow into a fairly long clean rather green finish with lasting warmth. It needs a couple of years to come together, and it will be worth waiting for, in a rather ingratiating key when it arrives. The style is fairly international, though it does also have the acidity and tannic structure typical of Rufina.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by sea salt, sour berry fruit, and some rather cheeky warmth; it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's fairly rich, with deft strawberry laced cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and a fair amount of warmth, while there is also alcohol that confers some sweetness, and flows into a long warm strawberry finish. It needs time, a couple of years at least, because it's still coming together now, and will be something to think about if you like the style, which is fairly traditional.
2 stars

Fattoria I Veroni

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2010

Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with brambly berry fruit supported by spice and some cedar, and also by mentholated acidity; it's deft and rather graceful. On the palate it's fairly rich, with strawberry cherry fruit supported by mentholated acidity and tannins that have a warm splintery burr and flow into a clean bright slight greenish strawberry cherry finish. Bright, and pleasant, in an unassuming direct key.
1 star

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Cherry almandine with black reflections and some almandine. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with berry fruit supported by leather, some spice, alcohol and slight iodine; the effect is brooding. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh strawberry laced berry fruit supported by moderately intense acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a clean strawberry laced finish with some underlying bitterness. Pleasant, in a fairly traditional key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Podere il Pozzo

Podere il Pozzo Vigna Vecchia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2009

Deep black cherry with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with floral accents mingled with vanilla and supported by ripe berry fruit and some peppery spice; nice depth and elegance in a fairly modern key. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and slight sweetish jammy accents and slight greenish notes, while the tannins are warm and still quite young, with a blockiness that will fade with time as the wine ages and the tannins smooth. I'd give it 3-5 years and expect it to age well for at least 10 years, perhaps more.
2 stars

Chianti Rufina: The 2009 Vino D'Annata, the 2008 Riserva &... Burgundy

The 2010 chianti Rufina presentation began with what many might consider a risky comparison: six 2007 Chianti Rufina wines (5 Riserva, and one not), and six 2007 Burgundies. Six good Burgundies, and those who say that a good Burgundy is the finest wine in the world would likely have expected the comparison to be rather pointless, a "best and the rest" sort of situation. But it wasn't; rather, we enjoyed a view of two very different areas with very different winemaking traditions.

Burgundy has always been sought after by the nobility, who over the centuries went to extreme lengths to get hold of the region's wine, and from early on took steps to promote quality and differentiate from place to place within the region.

Chianti Rufina, on the other hand, was recognized as a wine producing region of quality by Cosimo III de'Medici in the early 1700s, but was never the subject of systematic attempts to improve the wines, and one of the ways that the differences between the two appellations shows most strongly is vineyard age: The wines from Burgundy that we tasted were from vineyards that were at least 40 years old, and in some cases much older, up to 80.

The Montesodi vineyard, which yields the Frescoobaldi Cru that was among the Rufina wines, was instead planted a mere 15 years ago because the last time the vineyard had been replanted before then it had been planted to lower densities, with vines that produced more quantity than quality. The situation is similar over much of Rufina; the wines are almost all from relatively young vineyards planted to rectify poor decisions of the past, and this neatly reveals the primary viticultural difference between the two regions: Burgundy has been farmed for quality for centuries, whereas Rufina (like much of the rest of Italy) has only recently begun to emphasize quality over quantity. In short, the Italians are playing catch-up. But doing so very well, as the tasting showed.

The other obvious difference the tasting revealed was in varietals; Burgundy is exclusively Pinot Noir and is universally considered to provide the finest expression of Pinot Noir bar none. Rufina is instead home to the classic Tuscan Sangiovese blend, which revolves around Sangiovese (a varietal that does display some tannic affinities with Pinot Noir) with uve complementari, or supporting varietals that include the autochthonous Canaiolo and Colorino, and also can include international varietals, especially the Cabernets and Merlot.

How do they compare? Not particularly well. Pinot Noir, especially in its Burgundy expression, revolves primarily around finesse; it's an essential wine that would be too much were one to add a jot, and not enough were one to remove one. In other words, it's a balancing act, suspended high above the ground. Sangiovese and its allies in Rufina work in a different direction, displaying finesse, but also power, and playing off a balance between fruit, acidity and tannin that is very different from what Pinot does, but not necessarily inferior. If one were to borrow from the musical world, Burgundy grabs an instrument and plays a solo (for some reason the clarinet comes to mind), whereas Rufina gathers a group of instruments and plays a concerto. Very different expressions, but both can be sublime.

A couple of words on the vintage:
For Chianti Rufina 2007 was good, though unusual at the outset, with an early spring followed by a long, hot, but not too dry summer. I found the resulting wines to be rather nervous upon release, but they have developed quite nicely, with rich fruit supported by lively acidities and tannins, and think they have nice aging potentials as well.

In Burgundy, we were told, things didn't go as well: the spring came early, but the summer was cool and rather damp, and the resulting vintage was "difficult;" a fellow taster with much more experience with Burgundy than I have said it was a vintage of comparatively low acidity, adding that higher acidity vintages are better. Of course difficult is not disastrous and indeed the vintage offered, we were told, an opportunity for top winemakers to draw the most from their lands, and achieve the sort of deftness and finesse that don't come in richer vintages. In other words, difficult can be good (even with lower acidities), and indeed the Burgundies we tasted were very good.

As were the Chianti Rufinas. We began with them:

Tenuta Bossi - Marchesi Gondi Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and flinty, on the outset, with cherry notes and some jammy accents and some mineral acidity that emerge with time, and also hints of smoke. Quite mineral, and rather distant; it's not closed but not welcoming either. Keeps its distance and displays considerable reserve. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and by distinct minerality, and is supported by tannins that have a fairly intense burr, and flow into a rather bitter finish with soft cherry underpinning and fair acidity. It's a bit awkward, fresh from the bottle, but as it opens in the glass develops nicely in a decidedly traditional key, with acidity carrying nicely. It impressed me, considerably, because though my first impression was so-so, when I resipped it it made me open my eyes and take notice
2 stars

Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007
This is from the highest vineyard in Rufina, at 500 m ASL. Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim with hints of almandine as well. The bouquet is powerful, and rather dusky, with red berry fruit supported by considerable underbrush and some spice, and also savory balsamic notes and sea salt, and hints of petroleum that are a little unusual in a red wine but work well. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful brambly cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and a fair amount of warmth, and by steely greenish tannins that are still quite young, but have begun to smooth, and flow into a long decidedly bitter finish. It's very young, and needs time, and the bitterness plays a fundamental role in the wine; it will always be there, and if you like bitterness in a wine you will like the wine. If you prefer wines that are more welcoming and fruity -- the bitterness is standoffish -- it will work less well for you. It will in any case be quite long lived, and really isn't ready to be drunk yet -- I would give it another 2-3 years before opening it.
2 stars

I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite mineral, with brambly accents and bitterness more than fruit; it has a certain distance to it at first swish, though with more swishing some berry fruit and wet tree bark emerge. Quite young. On the palate it's bright, and tightly woven, with fairly rich very mineral berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that are clean and bitter, with pencil shaving and graphite overtones, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, in a decidedly mineral key, and if you like the style, which is well removed from the fruity fullness of a ripe Merlot, you will enjoy it considerably. A pleasant discovery, and it will drink very well with grilled or roasted meats.
88-90

Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The b is young and quite oaky, with considerable sweetish cedar overlying cherry ft; the combination is harmonious, but not as well defined as it might have been with less oak. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a sweet vanilla laced burr and flow into a clean rather bitter finish in which vanilla again emerges rather strongly. It's heavily oaked, and is quite good in that style, but you have to like it. I found the oak a bit much for my tastes.
2 stars

Marchesi De' Frescobaldi Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and quite ripe, with savory notes mingled with slightly stewed berry fruit that has some prune overlay, and some minerality and some wet leather as well. It gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's further along and quite rich, with powerful ripe cherry prune fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, though they have a slight burr to them, and flow into a clean fairly rich cherry finish. It's quite pleasant and eminently approachable, with deft acidity keeping it light on its toes, and it will drink very well with roasts or stews now, and also age nicely for quite some time. Very pleasant, and if you like the style, which is middle-of-the-road in an approachable key, you will enjoy it. It doesn't quite give a come-hither look, but almost.
2 stars

Selvapiana Bucerchiale Chianti Rufina Riserva 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich cherry fruit supported by some minerality and deft floral accents. Very pleasant, and displays great finesse. On the palate it's rich, with clean mineral-laced cherry fruit supported by slightly brambly mineral acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite harmonious, and though it's quick to write there's a lot going on. It's quite young, but drinkable, and will work nicely with grilled meats or roasts if you lack the patience to give it time. If you do, it will richly reward you. Expect it to age 10-15 years at least.
90-92

Burgundy:

Givry Domaine de la Ferté 2007 baron Thenard/Domaines Deviliard
Pale almandine with hints of orange in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, and quite rich, with powerful floral notes, with strawberry and cherry fruit supported by a certain sweetness - almost pastry shop - and spice. Quite graceful in a rich and rather voluptuous key. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour strawberry cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and a degree of sweetness, and by graceful, deft tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart finish that continues at length. It's quite fresh, and quite young, and will also age nicely though one could certainly drink it now.
2 stars

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuéès 2007 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up slightly candied fruit and some jammy accents with a fair amount of greenish spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are delicate and savory, with a slight burr, and flow into a clean fairly bright tannic finish. Pleasant, and quite deft; it's also quite young, and the nose is somewhat behind the palate, while the tannins are fairly strong, and emerge over the fruit. It's a wine that comes across as slightly thin, but I would expect it to do very interesting things with time because its minerality and acidity are both quite nice. .
2 stars

Volnay 1er Cru La Carelle Sous La Chapelle 2007 Jean-Marc Boillot
Slightly darker pale almandine ruby. The nose is powerful, and by comparison with the first two a bit rustic, with intense balsamic notes, sea salt and lathered horse, and also savory warmth. A lot going on in what I would call a traditional key were it Italian, and pleasant if you like the style. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and tannins that are quite young and rather glancing--steely even, flowing into a decidedly mineral finish with some brambly accents and underlying bitter acidity. Quite pleasant, and very fresh, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's a deft wine that has a willowy quality to it, and will do interesting things as it ages.
90

Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières 2007 Jean-Marc Boillot
Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with decidedly savory berry fruit laced with some minerality, balsamic accents, and wet leaves, with hints of scalded milk as well. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by strawberry acidity and tannins that have a deft burr and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish with lasting warmth and savory notes. Quite fresh, and will drink very well with red meats.
88-90

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cherbandes 2007 Domaine Louis Boillot & Fils
Fairly pale cherry ruby with black reflections and hints of almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry strawberry fruit supported by sweetish balsamic accents, and by some leather as well; it takes longer to open than some of the others, but displays considerable finesse with time. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bitterness and spice, and considerable minerality; it flows into a clean rather savory finish with some spicy berry fruit underpinning. It needs, perhaps more than the others, more time to develop.
2 stars

Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru aux Perdrix 2007 Domaine des Perdix
Fairly rich cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich violets and floral accents, and by red berry fruit, and some brambly notes as well. Very pleasant to sniff, and quite harmonious. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit laced with strawberry notes and supported by deft acidity and minerality, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a clean slightly bitter berry fruit laced finish. Though young the wine is quite approachable and very pleasant to drink. Very nice and though one could drink it now it will reward those who have the patience to give it time. It will age beautifully for many, many years.
90-92

The next day we moved to the seat of the Chianti Rufina Consorzio in Villa Poggio Reale, an elegant Renaissance villa overlooking the town of Rufina, and tasted through the current vintages, both the 2009 Vino D'Annata and the 2008 Riserva. I confess I am still getting a feel for the 2009; it strikes me as being a bit inconsistent, with some very fine wines and others that don't quite reach the same heights, and is a wine in which the hand of the winemaker plays an important role. Climate did play a role in this, because July was quite hot, and in some areas stressed the vines.

2008? Last year I said it was good but slightly inferior to 2007, and I still have that impression; it's a solid vintage, and one that yielded some excellent wines. I would rather not say much more yet, because the wines we tasted were very young -- in bottle, but not released -- and though I did score them in many cases I felt like I was judging toddlers.

As was the case last year the wines were presented palese, or uncovered, and I have listed them in the order in which they appear in the Consorzio's catalog.

Colognole

Colognole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Fresh bouquet, with lively brambly berry fruit supported by fairly bright cherry acidity and some graphite shaving bitterness. Quite fresh. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a brambly burr and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. Quite approachable in a food oriented key; the tannins are a little too dry for one to drink it by the glass, but it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light roasts. A food wine.
2 stars

Colognole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and moderate spice with hints of cedar as well. Fairly direct. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that are warm and rather splintery. It's very young, and still coming together; it needs at least a year and perhaps more. Judging it now is like judging an unhappy toddler.

Frascole

Frascole Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively pale ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by pleasing vegetal accents and deft sour berry fruit acidity; it's quite fresh and quite refreshing, a wine that invites repeated sniffs. On the palate it's rich, and medium bodied, with full powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with slight bitter underpinning. Graceful, and will drink very well with foods, will also age nicely for 5-8 years or more. Worth seeking out.
90

Frascole Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine ruby. The bouquet is quite elegant, with deft minerality and berry fruit mingled with bitter accents and some intriguing vegetal notes. Great finesse. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have some graphite shaving bitterness and a tantalizing languidity to them, and flow into a clean deft cherry plum finish. Quite pleasant, though young, and revolves more around finesse than power, though it has that too. Worth seeking out to drink with a roast (rare roast beef thickly sliced would be nice) or stew, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Il Prato

Azienda Agricola Il Prato Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some cherry fruit and spice mingled with slight peppery accents and hints of vanilla. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense rather sour fruit supported by tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a rather dusky finish. It's fairly direct, and is the sort of wine one sets out on the table and drinks while enjoying the food; it will support what it's served -- simple grilled meats, light stews, meat-based pasta dishes, beany dishes -- with but doesn't demand the limelight.
1 star

Villa Travignoli

Villa Travignoli Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with fairly rich cherry fruit that has slight candied accents supported by violets and some acidity, with vegetal accents too. Bracing in a very youthful key. On the palate it's fresh, and fairly light, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by tannins that gain depth from a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. A pleasant food wine that will do a very fine job accompanying hearty soups such as ribollita, rich dishes such as fagioli all'uccelletto (or a meaty lasagna) and also quickly grilled meats. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Travignoli Tegolaia Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Livley black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and some brambly vegetal notes, but not much in the way of fruit, and it gives an impression of dryness. On the palate it's medium bodied with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a brambly glancing burr and flow into a clean rather savory finish. It's approachable, and direct, and will drink well with foods, in particular simple grilled meats. It's just that I would expect a little more richness and direction of a Riserva.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Le Coste

Azienda Agricola Le Coste Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Deep pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a vegetal laced spice supporting moderate cherry plum fruit with hints of butterscotch as well. The palate is defter than I expected, and rather light, with fairly sweet, bright cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a savory finish with some graphite shaving bitterness. It's quite direct, but has a pleasant cheekiness to it, and will drink well with red sauced pasta dishes, simple grilled meats, and similar. You may wonder where the bottle went.
1 star

Le Coste Grati Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet powerful and decidedly green; it brings to mind a cut pumpkin, and there is also some warmth and alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit and savory accents, and by fairly smooth tannins that flow into a rather dry tart finish. It's quite particular, especially the nose, and is therefore a wine you should only consider if you like the style.
1 star

Montulico - Cantina Sociale VI.C.A.S.

Montulico Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and purple rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with rather voluptuous dusky cherry fruit supported by some smoky notes and jammy acidity, with a slight vegetal underpinning. A cheeky wine. On the palate it's a touch sweeter than I expected and very fresh, with clean rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish that gains depth from acidity and slight peppery accents from the tannins. Quite pleasant in a young, smooth, cheeky fruit driven key, and also quite direct; it's very approachable and if you like fruity lively wines -- there's nothing studied or polished about it, rather it brings to mind a kid twirling on a meadow -- you will enjoy it, and it will work quite well with simple grilled meats or light stews and such. Worth seeking out. If you like the style.
2 stars

Dreolino

Dreolino Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and purple rim. The bouquet is closed, with some mineral accents and some savory notes, coupled with hints of sour cherry that I would have liked stronger. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by sour mineral acidity and by tannins that are rather brambly and become dry in the finish, which also has sour cherries and some savory accents. To be frank, I would have liked more, especially on the nose, which has a stunted feel to it, and I think I would give it a year more in the hopes that the nose will evolve. The score reflects the present.
1 star

Fattoria Di Basciano

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by considerable savory cedar and some spice; it's a bit disjointed and coming together, in a fairly promising international key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright slightly greenish cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a warm savory burr, and a bitter underpinning as well that flows into a savory tannic finish. It's a bit disjointed, with the tannic structure feeling larger than the fruit it was built to surround, and as a consequence there is a degree of emptiness to it; I would have liked more fruit.
1 star

Fattoria di Basciano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with purple rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit laced with a fair amount of savory cedar and some spice; it's quite young, and needs another year to come together. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich prune fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that start out quite smooth, but then reveal a splintery cedar-laced burr that continues into a fairly dry finish with a slight bitter underpinning. It's still quite young and rather out of sorts; it needs a year for the tannins to begin to smooth, and then will be approachable in a ripe fruit driven fairly international key. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but if you instead prefer more traditional, tarter, more aggressive Sangiovese, you will find it soft.
1 star

Fattoria di Grignano

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections.. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by brambles and some vegetal accents; it's a bit green. On the palate it's rather aggressive, with greenish berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and by tannins that have a peppery burr and flow into a fairly bright peppery finish. It's a bit on the angry side, and if you like this rather aggressive style you will like it, but you have to like more aggressive wines. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with succulent grilled meats or roasts, including fattier fare such as spare ribs or leg of lamb. Particular, and you will either like it or not.
1 star

Fattoria di Grignano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections. the bouquet is powerful, with a great deal of cedar that overshadows fruit and most everything else. Oak in a glass. On the palate it's brighter than one might have expected on the outset, with berry fruit that has an unexpected sour component that manages to emerge, before being pulled back under by a cedary hand that continues into a decidedly cedar laced finish. A great lot of oak, and it's a pity, because there is fruit under it. Just that it doesn't manage to emerge.
1 star

Fattoria I Veroni

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather smoky, with some balsamic notes as well mingled into berry fruit. It's a bit rustic and not quite as clean as I might have liked. On the palate it's quite direct, with moderately intense cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do display a slight peppery burr. It will drink well with foods, not distracting from what it's served with, and because of the tannic burr will be best with more succulent quikly grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Fattoria I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope with cherry rim -- close to being impenetrable. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with a fair amount of cedar and some savory accents as well and a fair amount of alcoholic warmth. Fairly young, and still digesting the oak it went through, though as it opens fruit gains in intensity. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderately rich berry fruit supported by moderate sour berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedary burr and flow into a fairly hot, rather dry finish. There's a lot of oak, and the wine is trying to digest it but hasn't yet. Because of the peppery aggressiveness of the tannins, it will drink well with fattier roasts or stews. It needs time, a year at least, and isn't showing as well as it will.
1 star

Fattoria il Capitano - Azienda Agricola Balbi

Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2008
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with savory balsamic notes and hints of wet horse, supported by some bramble and slight acidity, with mineral and underbrush undertones. On the palate it's moderately intense, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by brambly acidity and very dry tannins that flow into a decidedly tannic finish that is rather dry. It's a bit dry, and a bit tannic, and also quite aggressive; if you like the style it will work quite well with fatty grilled meats, or mixed fried meats and vegetables, but you have to like the style. If you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work for you at all.
1 star

Fattoria il Capitano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by some dried orange peel acidity and some spice, though not too much. On the palate it's light, with bright cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a light, rather cheeky -- saucy, even -- sort of way; it will drink well with quickly grilled meats, red sauced pasta dishes, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried meats and vegetables. If you like more studied concentrated wines it won't work for you, but if you like the style it is pleasant and will go quickly.
2 stars

Fattoria il Lago

Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by violets and some sour berry cherry jam acidity that gains depth from slight vegetal accents. Bracing and fresh. On the palate it's light, with less acidity than I expected; the fruit is fresh sour cherry while the acidity is moderate, and the tannins are fairly smooth, with bitter undertones that carry into the finish. It's quite direct, and will accompany what it's served with without getting in the way.
1 star

Fattoria il Lago Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is dusky, with cherry fruit supported by cedar and some leathery accents, and also by some iodine and as it opens plum fruit as well, with underlying mint and spice. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderately intense acidity, while there is also quite a bit of alcohol, which contributes to the sweetness that emerges on the palate, while the finish is fairly long, with cherry plum fruit. It's pleasant though very young, and needs another couple of years to get its bearings; at present it's a toddler stumbling, but it shows promise.
1 star

Fattoria Lavacchio

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit disjointed, with smoky balsamic accents mingled with red berry fruit and savory notes that gain in intensity as it opens; it also becomes more harmonious. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that have a distinctly bitter component to them. It's more settled than I might have liked because it's lacking in acidity.
1 star

Fattoria Lavacchio Cedro Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is charged, with a tremendous rush of hardwood ash and cedar with some savory accents and spice, but not much fruit -- it is likely there, but is completely overshadowed by the oak. The palate reflects the nose; it's quite powerful, with bitter savory oak that overshadows most everything else at the outset, and flows into a somewhat sweeter vanilla laced cedary finish in the end, more oak that continues to emerge. In its defense the wine is very, very young, but it still has a lot of oak it needs to digest. One judges what one has in front of one.
1 star

Fattoria Selvapiana

Fattoria Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky berry fruit supported by savory notes and sea salt, and by pleasant herbal notes, while there is also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's fresh, and deft, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that a warm savory burr and flow into a clean rather mineral finish. It's very young, and needs another year to get its bearings, but is quite pleasant, and will be worth waiting for.
2 stars

Marchesi Gondi - Tenuta Bossi

Marchesi Gondi San Giuliano Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is rich and fresh in a rather haunting way, with powerful jammy cherry fruit supported by dusky cherry acidity and a fair amount of alcohol; for some reason the bouquet makes me think of a voluptuous femme fatale. The palate is rich, but not as turgid as I might have hoped; there's fairly rich cherry fruit whose sweetness is tempered by savory notes, and there are pleasant smooth tannins, but there isn't quite as much acidity as I might have liked, and this makes it a tad settled. It will work quite well with foods, however, supporting what it's served with, without hogging the limelight.
2 stars

Marchesi Gondi Pian dei Sorbi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
impenetrable pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with berry fruit and slight cedar with some menthol and warmth, and quite a bit of alcohol as well. It's in mid stride and moving. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity that confers brightness, and is balanced by dusky bitterness from the tannins that are smooth, fading into a fruit finish that gradually settles into black coffee bitterness. It's going in several directions at once, and though the aggregate total is quite promising the pieces are still circling each other warily and wondering how they'll all fit in. I would give it 2-3 years to get its act together, and expect it to age well for a decade at least. It will improve with respect to the present.
2 stars

Podere Il Pozzo - Cantine F.lli Bellini

Il Pozzo Chianti Rufina DOCG 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour leathery berry fruit notes and some vegetal accents, it gives an impression of tartness. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by tannins that have a peppery burr to them, and by moderately intense sour cherry acidity. It's a bit rustic, and rather particular, and you'll only like it if you like this style. If you prefer smoother more fruit driven wines, it won't work as well for you.
1 star

Podere il Pozzo Il Pozzo Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and fairly deft spice, supported by moderate spicy berry fruit. On the palate it's brighter than the nose would suggest, with fairly rich tart cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky graphite shaving burr and considerable warmth, and flow into a tart decidedly tannic -- almost tongue-curling -- finish. It's in the throws of youth, and will be there for a couple of years, after which it will be pleasant in a fairly international key -- I think, because it does need time, both for the nose to catch up to the palate and match stride with it, and for the palate to develop. At present it's a work in progress.

Cantine F.lli Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by some bitter graphite shavings. Pleasant to sniff, and still quite young. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish finish. Pleasant in a rather cheeky way, and will drink nicely with stews or roasts now, and also age well for a decade at least.
2 stars

Castello di Nipozzano - Marchesi De'Frescobaldi

Nipozzano Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with a fair amount of cedar mingled with cherry fruit and some spice; it's deft, but also quite young, and a work in progress; at present the oak overshadows fruit to a degree. On the palate it's ample, and rather dusky, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and rather dusky tannins; it has a slightly dilute feel to it that I didn't expect, and the fruit seems to run away in all directions, like rivulets, and this is because of a certain shortness that resolves into bitter splintery tannins. It's a work in progress caught in a bad moment, and to give it the score now would be like grading a toddler in the throws of a temper tantrum.

Vigneto Montesodi Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cherry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar and some berry fruit acidity; it's nicely balanced in a fairly rich rather international key. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather dusky cherry fruit supported by deft dusky berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, but do have a dusky cedar-laced burr, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's still very young, and needs another year to digest the oak, but promises well; it will work well with grilled meats or roasts, and also age nicely for a decade at least. But do give it time.
2 stars

Castello del Trebbio

Castello del Trebbio Lastricato Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is deft, with elegant red berry - prune fruit supported by violets and slight alcohol with pleasant spice as well. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry plum fruit that gains depth from savory duskiness and tantalizing plum acidity that gradually emerges, and continues into the finish, while the tannins are quite smooth and quite deft. A very pleasant wine that will drink well with roasts or stews, and may also distract you from matters at hand; it's like a pretty girl who dresses simply and is quiet, but attracts attention simplyt by being there.
88-90