The Photo Of The Week: And It All Started Here...

If it weren't for the stubbornness of Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta and the quickness of his nephew Marchese Piero Antinori, Bolgheri would still be known primarily for the spectacular cypress-lined road connecting it to the Aurelia, the old Roman road to Marseilles, and for having been the home of Noble Laureate poet Giosué Carducci. Certainly not for wine Carducci loved, a thin, harsh Sangiovese that suffered from the proximity of the sea.

It wasn't anything that Marchese Mario, A Piemontese who knew and loved the world's great wines (he acquired the land by marrying Contessa Clarice della Gherardesca, whose sister Carlotta married Niccolò Antinori, Piero's father), wanted anything to do with. So he decided to experiment, and shortly after the withdrawal of the German occupation forces in 1944, planted some Cabernet high up on a hillside, in the section of his lands that most resembled the great terroirs of Bordeaux. The vineyard was called Sassicaia, after a farmhouse built from the stones removed when the land was first cleared in the early 1800s, and so was the wine.

The initial results were bad -- Marchese Mario was learning as he went along, and a friend, one of the Rothchilds, found the wine horrible. Nor was he alone in his evaluation; the Marchese's field hands and assistants all insisted it was fire-laced and refused to drink it. This might have discouraged some, but the Marchese was made of sterner stuff and persevered, taking the lessons learned to heart and extending his vineyards, selecting a lower area that is slightly warmer and faces the sea, thus enjoying better ventilation. When he felt more confident of his progress, he sent a couple of bottles to Veronelli, Italy's most influential wine critic, with a note saying, "None of my people like this, but I'd like your opinion too."

Veronelli's reply was succinct: "It's magnificent."

This brings us through the early 1960s, when a select few realized Bolgheri hid a tremendous gem in the ruff. It's one thing to make a great wine, however, and quite another to make a great success of it. The 60s were the one of the darkest periods in Italian enology, which Tuscany's flagship wine, Chianti Classico, doing terribly because of the 30% white grapes the Disciplinare forced the producers to put into it. Few were interested in buying it, and fewer still were willing to bet on a Cabernet-based table wine from an obscure coastal town with no enological traditions whatsoever.

Except for one thing: Marchese Mario's nephew is Piero Antinori, and in 1967 he was both breaking with the Chianti Classico consortium and launching a revolutionary Cabernet-Sangiovese blend, Tignanello. Mario and his son Niccolò asked Marchesi Antinori if they'd be willing to help them handle the sale of Sassicaia, and the answer was an enthusiastic yes. Antinori did more, sending Giacomo Tachis, the enologist who was overseeing the production of Tignanello, to help oversee Sassicaia too. Thus Sassicaia gained a window onto the world, and the grand adventure of Bolgheri's wines began. To think it all started here...

Bolgheri: the 2010 Vintage Presentation

Bolgheri is where it all began on the Tuscan Coast, and even though Sassicaia was already attracting international acclaim by the time the first Bolgheri DOC was established in 1983, the authorities chose to regulate the production of whites and rosés, leaving vintners to follow their whims when it came to reds, which were all classified as table wine. Though this was obviously a slight to the red wines, it wasn't as negative as it may seem, because it gave the vintners tremendous freedom to experiment. Some chose to use exclusively French varietals, and others various mixtures of Italian and French. The DOCG established in 1994 recognizes the reds, while maintaining the freedom:

• Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)
• Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino
• Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon
• Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno
• Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)
• Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yields?
100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.

Cellaring?
As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.

Having said all this, the wines tasted at the Bolgheri DOCG presentation on May 28 2010. The order, after a couple of wineries that did not present reds, is that in which the Bolgheri Superiore was presented, because it was the wine I started with:

Serni Fulvio Luigi

Serni Fulvio Luigi Le Lame Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections, The bouquet is fairly intense, with deft greenish accents mingled with bitter almonds and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with rather languid bitter white fruit supported by minerality and mineral acidity, which flow into a clean rather mineral finish. It will be a pleasant aperitif and will also drink nicely with grilled fish or with white meats.
2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Arcanto Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale salmon with electric pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky rather bitter berry fruit supported by greenish accents and some brambly notes that mingle with sour berry fruit. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's lively, with bright sour brambly berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by brambly greenish tannins that flow into a fairly greenish finish. Quite direct, and zesty, an ideal wine for a cookout or picnic.
1 star

Poggio al Tesoro

Poggio al Tesoro Cassiopea Rosato IGT 2009
Pale pink with white rim. Quite pale, The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and some sour berry fruit laced with sour berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's bright, with rather languid sour berry fruit supported by greenish acidity that flows into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Fairly direct, and will drink nicely as an aperitif or at a cookout or picnic.
2 stars

Terre del Marchesato

Terre del Marchesato Nobilis Muffato IGT 2007
This is a muffato, or wine struck by noble rot, and is brassy gold with brilliant golden reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with the classic sweet bitter honey laced with herbals accents that is a hallmark of noble rot, and is supported by some sour apricot acidity as well, which helps keep it on its toes, while there is an underlying current of sweetness too. On the palate it's rich, and sweet, with powerful slightly candied apricot fruit supported by clean apricot acidity that flows into a long candied apricot finish. Quite pleasant, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's not a sauternes, and is brighter and perhaps more muscular than some sauternes, but very pleasant. Worth seeking out. If you like the style.
88

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari Bolgheri Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by wet leather and some savory accents; the impression is pleasantly languid. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by clean greenish accents and mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and slightly vegetal, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant, though it needs another year to come together, and a little more acidity would have been nice; it will drink nicely with grilled meats or stews,
2 stars

Giorgio Meletti Cavallari Impronte Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and vinous, with clean slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and some graphite shavings, with deft vegetal accents that gain in intensity as it opens, and some alcohol as well. Pleasant and harmonious, and very young. On the palate it's medium bodied, and a bit drier than I expected from the nose, with moderately rich berry fruit that quickly gives way to dry warm balsamic tannins that have a fair amount of cedar in them and flow into a warm balsamic cedar laced finish with bitter graphite undertones. It's still coming together, but has potential. I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings and come together, and expect it to age well for a decade.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia

Donna Olimpia Agoghè IGT 2009
Pale salmon with onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sea salt and savory spice. Fresh in a rather lively mineral key. On the palate it's savory, with considerable bitter minerality supported by savory notes and some spice. It's pleasant, but in a savory key and you have to like the style to like the wine. If you do it will drink nicely with antipasti, or frilled fish and similar, and also be a nice cookout wine.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Millepassi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim with hints of orange. The bouquet is quite fresh, with floral accents and violets mingled with jammy blackberry and forest berry fruit with slight hints of graphite shavings; it's quite fruit forward, and rather voluptuous but also fairly direct. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some cedar accents, and slight graphite shaving bitterness, and flow into a smooth cedar laced finish. It's pleasant in an ample, soft fruit forward key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I would give it a year for the tannins to smooth in. It you prefer more aggressive, acidic wines you will like it less.
2 stars

Batzella

Batzella Pinksy Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale brassy salmon with salmon reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rich ripe yellow peach mingled with some strawberries and a fair amount of alcohol, supported by some sweetish accents and slight acidity. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich rather languid berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by light tannins; I'd have liked more acidity to hold it together and tie it up, because it's a bit lax, especially in the finish.
1 star

Batzella Digià Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2009
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is quite fresh, with cherry prune fruit supported by deft greenish accents and some floral notes, also graphite shaving bitterness. Fresh, and ripe. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh plum fruit supported by some greenish accents and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh plum cherry finish. Up front and direct, it will drink nicely with quickly grilled meats, and be perfect at a cookout too. Expect it to go quickly.
1 star

Batzella Pean Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with ith greenish accents mingled with berry fruit and some dusky spice. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with fairly dry savory minerality more than berry fruit supported by savory accents and sweet savory tannins that flow into a sea salt finish. One can taste sea breezes, and while they are nice I would have liked more fresh fruit as well.
1 star

Batzella Tàm Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up leafy underbrush mingled with some iodine and berry fruit and cassis; it's pleasant but still coming together, and quite international in feel. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by more acidity than I expected -- though it's far from the aggressiveness of coastal Sangiovese -- and by silky smooth sweet tannins that have warm cedary accents and some underlying bitterness, and flow into a fairly bitter savory finish. Pleasant and harmonious, though I would give it another year for the cedar to fold in; you will enjoy it if you like ample smooth wines that are not overripe, and it will age nicely for a number of years, becoming rather ethereal with time.
2 stars

La Cipriana

Cipriana Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with dusky bitterness laced with smoke and some penetrating accents, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate acidity that flow into a clean rather soft prune cherry finish with some underlying acidity. I'd have liked greater tightness and depth; it comes across as fairly lax.
1 star

Cipriana San Martino Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and rather up front, with cherry fruit supported by some cedar and underbrush, with some vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by rather savory tannins that have some pencil shaving bitterness to them, and flow into a clean warm tannic finish with underlying bitterness. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, though the tannins are smooth and the overall impression is harmonious.
1 star

Tenute Guicciardini-Strozzi

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Ocra Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with haunting greenish accents mingled with toasted coffee and spice, with underlying vegetal notes, but not much fruit. Quite young, however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich rather chalky berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and some savory notes, while the tannins are smooth and greenish, flowing into a bitter vegetal finish. It's fairly direct, and still quite young; I would give it at least a year to get its bearings and some together.
1 star

Tenute Guicciardini-Strozzi Vignarè Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful and quite fresh, with jammy violets mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. Not quite a flower shop, but freshness (surprisingly so for a Superiore) in a glass. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and quite fruit driven, with jammy plum prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that aren't as broad as I might have expected, and by moderate mineral more than fruit driven acidity, which flow into a clean tannic finish. It centers around smoothness and fruit, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. I found it to be one-directional however, and as the tannins fold in this will I think become more apparent. In other words, a smooth fruit driven wine that is quite up front; what you see is what you get. Pleasant, seductive even, but it didn't make me think. At least now; it is also very young and needs to recover from being bottled; a fellow taster says it feels like it was bottled yesterday and he's right..
2 stars

I Greppi

I Greppi Greppicante Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal accents mingled with balsam and cedar, and some red berry fruit that provides support, and also smoky notes and a fair amount of alcohol. Nice depth, though very young. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by some mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flo9w into a clean sour mineral finish with underlying sour berry fruit that has some savory greenish accents. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

I Greppi Greppicaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up berry fruit laced with graphite shavings and bitter accents. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich sour plum cherry fruit supported by vegetal accents and graphite shaving bitterness, while the tannins are smooth and have some cassis to them; the finish is fairly long with clean cassis undertones and lasting bitterness. Pleasant in a smooth polished key, and with respect to some of the others has a little more acidity, which gives it more life, and makes it, for me, more interesting. It needs a couple of years at least to get its bearings and come together, and will age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

I Luoghi

I Luoghi Campo al Fico Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable black garnet with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit acidity and sour cherry fruit, with some leafy underbrush as well, and slight balsamic acidity. It's brighter than many. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral more than fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry plum finish with some savory tannic bitterness. Quite nice, though it needs another year to come completely together; it's like looking at a puzzle whose pieces are correctly placed but separated. It has considerable potential and I would give it the time, because it will be impressive in a lithe and graceful key.
2 stars

Michele Satta

Michele Satta Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is decidedly mineral, with considerable bitter gunflint and some spice as well. On the palate it's ample, and again mineral, with bright minerality supported by mineral acidity and by sour white berry fruit that has gunflint overtones, and flow into a decidedly mineral finish, It will drink nicely as an aperitif with fish (including oysters) and also with meatless dishes such as a frittata made with spinach. It's a little too crisp for sweeter dishes such as a frittata with onions, however. But it will go quickly. Nice savory minerality.
2 stars

Michele Satta Costa di Giulia IGT 2009
Brassy gold with brassy yellow reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with honeydew melon and sweet white fruit supported by some bitterness, though not really gunflint. Interesting and has a story to tell, though the nose suggests more an aperitif than a wine to be drunk with foods. On the palate it's ample, and rather languid, with clean mineral laced honeydew melon supported by mineral acidity and some savory accents, which flow into a fairly long languid honeydew melon finish with some savory honey overtones. Pleasant, though you have to like the style; if you prefer brighter, tighter whites it won't work as well for you. If you instead prefer the enological equivalent of a 1920s flapper reclining on a divan, you will like it very much.
2 stars

Michele Satta Giovin Re IGT 2009
Brassy yellow with greenish brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is powerful, with considerable spice, in particular freshly cracked black peppercorns mingled with some greenish sandalwood spice that's unusual in a white, but pleasant, and also some white berry fruit that contributes white berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's fairly rich, with savory minerality that I didn't expect from the nose supporting peppery spice that I did, and clean savory white fruit. Pleasant, though particular; if you like spicy whites you will enjoy it, but you have to like the style.
2 stars

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale salmon pink with onionskin in the rim. The bouquet is fairly right, with greenish accents and berry fruit supported by brambly notes and vegetal acidity. On the palate it's light, with bright rather green berry fruit supported by brambly acidity that has a greenish vegetal cast, and by sour cherry accents, while the tannins are light and savory, and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish that flows into lasting bitterness. A zesty wine that will work well as a cookout wine or with quickly cooked summer dishes, ranging from pasta through simple grilled meats or fish.
1 star

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep cherry ruby with brick reflections and brick rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some greenish peach accents, which can happen in youth, and with pleasant spice. Interesting. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by fairly rich berry fruit acidity that flow into a clean fresh finish. Fresh, and will drink well in the short term with grilled meats or light stews, while it also has the capacity to age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars

Michele Satta Piastraia Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. the bouquet is fresh, with deft floral accents and red berry fruit supported by clean greenish notes and spice with underbrush as well, and a fair amount of alcohol too. Nice balance. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with clean dusky rather bitter cherry fruit supported by sour balsamic acidity that flows into a decidedly bitter finish. It's more of a food wine than a wine to sip by the glass; if you like the style it will work very well with a hearty stew or with a porterhouse steak cooked rare and cut thick. But you do have to like the style; if you prefer smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you.
2 stars

Michele Satta Syrah IGT 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by some spice; it's quite young and fairly direct. On the palate it's ample and smooth with languid cherry plum fruit supported by dusky bitter tannins and tannic bitterness dusty overlay, more than by acidity, and it all flows into a clean rather bitter finish. Elegant in an oak driven more than acidic key, and if you like the style, which is quite smooth, you will enjoy it. If you prefer more marked acidity you will kike it less.
2 stars

Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with rim that mingles violet and garnet. The nose is extremely aromatic, with a mixture of floral accents, nutmeg and clove spice, and jammy berry fruit that almost brings a Ruché (an extraordinarily aromatic lesser Piemontese varietal) to mind. Quite unusual, and particular -- you will either like it or not. But it is voluptuous and rich, bringing to mind Jane Mansfield in a glass. On the palate it's ample, soft, and rather sweet, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that are again spicy, with a mixture of nutmeg and sandalwood, and flow into a clean spicy finish. A sexpot wine, and something of a fruit bomb as well, it's extreme in style and if you like the style you will like it very much.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco

Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino 2009
pale brassy white with brassy greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents mingled with minerality and spice, and pleasant brambly accents, On the palate it's more mineral and less bright than I had expected, with fairly rich mineral acidity and greenish accents, but less in the way of fruit, and flows into a clean rather bitter finish. It's fairly direct, and I'd have liked a little more depth than I found.
1 star

Collemassari Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and rim paling to cherry-orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour rather balsamic berry fruit supported by intense greenish vegetal accents and underlying spice. Young, but pleasant, and clearly developing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich sour cherry plum fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean bright sour berry fruit finish. Young, but pleasant, and will already drink well with grilled meats or stews, and will also age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco Grattamacco Rosso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fialruy intense, and a bit rustic, with savory balsamic accents mingled with wet leather and some spice; as it opens vegetal accents emerge, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth with moderately intense greenish fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a clean rather bitter mineral component, and flow into a rather mineral finish. It's very young, and needs at least a year to come together; at present it comes across as one directional but this is youth, and I think it will become quite interesting as it ages. It made me think, reflect, and reevaluate, something I like in a young wine.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco L'Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Elegant ruby with brilliant reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with powerful cherry and cassis fruit supported by some vegetal accents and some wet leather, with sour berry fruit acidity as well. Harmonious. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by some sour berry fruit acidity and by slight greenish vegetal accents, while the tannins are silky and smooth, and flow into a clean rather bitter berry fruit finish. Deft, and though it needs a year to come together it is quite pleasant, and will also become graceful with time. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Campo al Mare

Campo al Mare Campo al Mare Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim; it's close to being poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish yellow peach supported by hints of Sichuan preserved vegetable and some savory accents, On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish berry fruit supported by savory notes and smooth sweet tannins that have a slight mineral underpinning and flow into a clean slightly greenish berry fruit finish with underlying graphite shaving bitterness and some savory accents. Pleasant, in a deft fairly scrappy key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light stews, or simple roasts. I would expect it to go quickly in the proper setting.
2 stars

Campo al Mare Baia al Vento Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense, and quite young, with wet plaster and some animal accents mingled with savory notes and some berry fruit. Nice balance, though still very young, and as it opens the plaster fades some, giving way to leather, while berry fruit increases, as do vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderately rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and, to a greater degree, bitter tannins that flow into a decidedly bitter graphite shaving finish. It needs another year at least to get its bearings, and will profit from further bottle age; I found it to be fairly direct, and would have liked greater ripeness to the fruit, which lets the tannins carry some of the show.
1 star

Argentiera

Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and dusky rim tending towards almandine. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish unripe peach accents mingled with vegetal notes and hints of balsam, but not much fruit, though there are some balsamic accents. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderate fruit supported by some balsamic acidity and a fair amount of cedar, which flow into a clean bitter finish. I'd have liked more fruit, which would have added grace.
1 star

Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is muted, with wet leather and savory accents mingled with some acidity, hints of menthol, and slight plum fruit. It gives an impression of being in mid stride, but I would have liked a little more richness to the fruit. On the palate it's richer, with ample plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have some graphite shaving bitterness to them, and by slight acidity that flow into a fairly long bitter plum prune finish. It's quite ripe, in an ample smooth soft fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, though I would give it a year to allow the nose to catch up with the palate. If you like tighter, more aggressive wines it won't work as well for you. I found it to be rather direct.
1 star

Aia Vecchia

Aia Vecchia Sorugo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and jammy, with some gum Arabic as well, and underlying balsamic bitterness and some wet leather, with greenish cedar as well. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with deft sour plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and some bitter accents, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite young -- a toddler -- and still up in the air, but has nice potential and could be a wine to look out for. I would give it a couple of years at least, and expect it to do interesting things, because the fruit is there and it is harmonious.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini

Giovanni Chiappini Felciano Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections; it's almost poured ink. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some mentholated accents mingled with savory notes and some vegetal accents too; there's not much fruit, but this is also an effect of youth, because the wine is still developing. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. The palate is further along than the nose at present, and pleasant in a fairly direct key; it will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 5 years at least. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini Guado de'Gemoli Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with slightly chalky cherry plum fruit; it's quite young and at present this is most of what's there, though more swishing brings up some vegetal accents and slight artichoke greenness. Opens nicely. On the palate it's ample and very smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a well polished cedary burr, and by warmth more than acidity, which flow into a dusty cedar-laced finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, in a rich fruit driven key, though it needs another couple of years to get its bearings and come together; it will also age nicely for a decade at least. Nice depth, and good potential; I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Adeo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections; it's darker than many. The bouquet is intense, and fresh, with sour plum cherry fruit supported by savory vegetal accents and spice; it's pleasant to sniff in a fruit charged key and also quite young. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft sour plum acidity that has some cedar laced mentholic overtones, and is supported by smooth mentholated cedar-laced tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich plum finish with some cedary accents. Pleasant in a rather international style, though very young, and needs another year at least for the various components to come together. When they do it will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, and will also age nicely for 5-8 years at least.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with cherry fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and some spice with underlying jammy sweetness as well. Fairly direct, but also very young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean vegetal-prune finish with some cocoa accents from the wood, which is quite long. Very pleasant, in a decidedly youthful international key; I would give it 2-3 years to come together, and expect it to age well for 8-10.
2 stars

Tenuta San Guido

San Guido Guidalberto IGT 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by mineral bitterness and some vegetal notes, also bitter pencil shavings and minerality. Nice balance and depth in a fairly rich youthful key. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish overlay and flow into a fairly long savory finish with deft bitter fruit underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews, and also has the capacity to age well for 8-10 years.
2 stars

San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit more rustic than some, with barnyard tang mingled with some balsamic accents on first swish, followed by some greenish vegetal accents and some spice notes that bring green banana peel to mind. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderately intense sour plum fruit supported by warmth and smooth sweet tannins, which flow into a fairly long warm sour prune finish. It's fairly large, and fairly soft, but does have pleasing acidity, and I would give it 2-3 years to come together and develop. I would expect it to improve with time, because this wine is always weak on the outset, but I must comment on what is in the glass, not what will be; a fellow taster had a similar impression, though he scored it slightly higher -- 82 as opposed to my 79, and I do have to note that after a while in the glass -- I set it aside -- it had improved, something not all do, and this is a good sign. But it is really not ready yet, and I think too young to score.


Guado al Tasso

Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2009
Pale brassy white with some greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with delicate greenish accents mingled with heather and some sweaty blonde that brings sauvignon to mind, though Vermentino can also display this aroma. Nice balance and fairly zesty. On the palate it's bright, with warm citric fruit laced with bitter greenish accents that flow into a clean sour mineral finish with underlying greenish bitterness, which carries at length. Pleasant, in a fairly rich fruit driven key, and will drink well as an aperitif or with grilled fish or meats.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
pale pink with white reflections The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour berry fruit laced with strawberry acidity and supported by some herbal accents, and by some pungent underbrush that adds depth. Pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's deft, with fairly rich raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively raspberry acidity and some greenish accents that bring to mind the leaves of a strawberry, while there is pleasant underlying tart strawberry acidity, and it flows into a clean sour strawberry finish. It will be quite nice as an aperitif or with simple cheese or egg based antipasti, and will also be nice as a cookout wine, in which occasion you will want more than one bottle.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Il Bruciato Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections; it's poured ink. The bouquet is muted, of the shiut tight variety, and swishing doesn't bring up much at all. On the palate it's muted; swishing brings up some scalded milk and slight green leather, but not much lese, On the palate it's moderately intense, with slight berry fruit supported by some savory accents and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish with slightly brambly accents that are, to be frank, unexpected given the segue. I would have like more fruit and more richness than I found.
75

Guado al Tasso Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite mineral, with considerable graphite shavings mingled with vegetal notes and some savory accents, though there isn't much fruit. On the palate it's deft, with moderately rich plum fruit supported by considerable bitter graphite shaving minerality laced with artichoke greenish notes, and by smooth sweet savory tannins that flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. Pleasant, in a very varietal key -- the Cabernet stands up and waves -- and I found myself rather enjoying it, because though it's not particularly fruity it does have pleasing deft mineral complexity to it.
2 stars

Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia

Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections., the bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar mingled with some berry fruit and greenish spicy accents. Nice balance in an oaky key. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by considerable cedar and a fair amount of savory spice, which flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's very young in a decidedly oaky key, and needs time, a year or two at least; to absorb the oak it has been fed, though it may never do so completely. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like decidedly oaked wines; it will work well with succulent red meats.
2 stars

Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some greenish accents and slight sea salt mingled with plum prune fruit. All of these wines are works in progress, but this more than many. On the palate it's ample and soft with moderate bitterness mingled with berry fruit, and supported by smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a fairly bitter cedar-laced finish. It's very young and needs to come together; this said I found the fruit duskier than I might have liked -- it's a brooding wine, which revolves around shadow and spice, with less in the way of acidity than I would have liked; I found myself wishing for more brightness and life to the fruit. To be quite frank it was a bit of a disappointment and I hope that it will perk up with time, though the smoothness and the hold the tannins have upon the acidity make me wonder if it will.
2 stars

Sapaio

Sapaio Volpolo Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and cedar laced, with greenish vegetal accents but not much in the way of fruit, at least at present, On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly intense cedar laced warmth and some sour berry fruit. I'd have liked more fruit and less cedar.
1 star

Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some coffee grounds mingled with berry fruit and hints of wet leather; it's quite young, and still developing. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather graceful cherry plum fruit supported by clean mineral acidity and by silky tannins that gain direction from a slight bitter component, and flow into a clean fresh plum finish with deft tannic underpinning also supported by mineral acidity. Quite pleasant, though it needs another year at least to grow, and will do very interesting things with time.
88-90

Castello di Bolgheri

Castello di Bolgheri Varvara Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite vegetal, with pungent greenish spice mingled with cedar and artichokes, and supported by savory accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich minerality more than fruit supported by savory notes and some spice, and by clean sweet tannins that have dusky bitter accents and flow into a warm vegetal finish. It's pleasant if you like the style, which is fairly varietal (towards Cabernet), and will age nicely for a number of years as well.
2 stars

Castello di Bolgheri Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cedar and slight greenish accents. Not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit supported by greenish mentholated tannins and by savory notes, which flow into a fairly long finish with greenish accents and considerable alcoholic warmth. It's big, but I would have liked more fruit to fill out the house built by the tannins.
1 star


Santini Enrico

Santini Enrico Montepergoli Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish accents mingled with graphite shavings and a fair amount of alcohol, supported by gum Arabic. Not much fruit, however. On the palate it's ample, with minerality and greenish accents more than fruit, and considerable bitterness as well. I'd have liked greater fruit than I found.
1 star

Caccia al Piano

Caccia al Piano Ruith Hora Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, and swishing brings up -- not much. It doesn't want to be disturbed. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by savory tannins that have quite a bit of cedar to them. I'd have liked more fruit, because the wine revolves around the tannins, which owe much of their formation to oak, while the fruit is lacking.
1 star

Caccia al Piano Levia Gravia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with iodine and toffee (almost scalded milk) laced with cedar, but not much fruit, nor much acidity. The oak predominates. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected sour berry fruit supported by warm sour berry fruit acidity that has underlying graphite shaving bitterness and is supported by savory tannins with a cedar underpinning that flow into a clean fresh savory finish. It's disjointed due to youth, and I would give it a year or perhaps two, because the palate shows potential that the nose doesn't express at present. It's very much a work in progress, and too young to judge, though it may do very interesting things with time.

Casa di Terra

Casa di Terra Allegra Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pale salmon with brilliant reflections, the bouquet is greenish, with a fair amount of greenish acidity that brings dried hay to mind, supported by some greenish balsamic accents. On the palate it's fairly bitter, with less fruit and less acidity than I might have hoped, which flow into a decidedly bitter finish. I'd have liked more acidity and richness to the fruit.
1 star

Casa di Terra Mosaico Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim; it's poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with smoky accents mingled with sour berry fruit and some barnyard tang, with underlying cedar. On the palate it's ample, and softer than I expected, with cedar laced berry fruit supported by a fair amount of warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins. It's quite young, and needs another year at least to get its bearings; when it does it will be pleasant in a fairly scrappy key, and will drink well with grilled meat or roasts.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Moreccio Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2009
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly fresh, with chalky red berry fruit supported by menthol and some spice, with hints of petroleum and some greenish accents as well. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with less fruit than I might have expected - what there is is plum cherry -- supported by slightly balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins. I would have liked more, and richer fruit.
1 star

Le Grascete

Le Grascete Grale Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is unusual, with red berry fruit supported by savory accents that bring Sichuan preserved vegetable to mind, and by some sweetish notes as well, and hints of cedar from grape. On the palate it's direct, with red berry fruit that displays the same vegetal accents combined with savory spice, and is supported by smooth rather green tannins that flow into a savory finish. It's direct, and fairly particular; if you like these greenish accents you will like the wine, but if you do not you won't. Assuming you do it will work nicely with quickly grilled meats or light stews.
1 star

Eucaliptus

Eucaliptus Clarice Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, and youthful, with violets mingled with plum fruit and some greenish vegetal accents, with slight candied notes too. On the palate it's bright, with moderately rich cherry fruit supported by mineral more than fruit driven acidity, and by dusky bitterness with graphite shaving overtones that flow into a clean fairly bright finish with some graphite shaving bitterness. Approachable, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or light roasts, and also with stews.
2 stars

Ferrari Iris

Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with brandied plum fruit supported by some greenish accents and some shellac; with more swishing finger paints of the sort I used as a child also come up. On the palate it's rather thin, with greenish fruit that has some petroleum accents and petroleum acidity, and is supported by tannins that flow into a rather tart finish. I'd have liked greater roundness and depth to the fruit.
1 star

Fornacelle

Fornacelle Zizzolo Vermentino IGT 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections. The bouquet is rather languid, with slightly greenish white berry fruit supported by floral accents, sea salt and some alcohol. Nice balance and depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich greenish minerality supported by fairly deft savory acidity that flows into a clean slightly greenish savory finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite nicely as an aperitif or with grilled fish, also fried fish and fried meats in general, with fried veggies too. It grew upon me.
2 stars

Fornacelle Bianco IGT 2009
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections, The bouquet is intense, and quite aromatic, with greenish herbal notes mingled with spice and gunflint, and also fairly rich herbal accents, Nice depth and balance. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bitter minerality supported by mineral acidity that has some gunflint accents and is supported by considerable sea salt that flows into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, in a rather saucy key, and will drink quite well with fried fish or meats and vegetables, and also with flavorful grilled fish, though I'd be more tempted to pair it with fried foods. I especially liked the sea salt in the finish.
2 stars

Fornacelle Zizzolo Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and decidedly greenish, with cedar and some spice supporting greenish berry fruit that has some plastery overtones. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense decidedly mentholated fruit supported by tannins that have milky accents and moderate balsamic acidity, with a fair amount of alcohol to support it all. It's not really settled, but does plod, and I found myself wishing for greater depth in the acidity, and more brightness in the fruit.
1 star

La Pineta

La Pineta Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight, of the nobody home sort; swishing brings up some vegetal notes but little else. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by some but not too much berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins. I'd have liked greater richness and verve to the fruit.
1 star

Greppi Cupi

Greppi Cupi Greppi Cupi Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and blossoms, vegetal accents, and berry fruit mingled with hints of citrus, and some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's fresh, with fairly rich floral-laced berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth savory tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with some savory greenish accents and hints of balsam. Pleasant in a fresh, fairly aggressive scrappy key, and will be quite nice with quickly grilled meats or light stews, and also with hearty pasta dishes and similar.
2 stars

La Macchiole

Le Macchiole Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory notes mingled with some savory berry fruit and some cedar, and also dusky greenish notes. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by smooth cherry plum acidity, and by deft smooth tannins that have slight greenish accents and flow into a clean cherry plum finish. It's quick to write, but pleasant, and will drink well with roasts or stews, and also has the capacity to age nicely for a decade or more.
2 stars

Le Macchiole Messorio IGT 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful with fairly intense cedar mingled with red berry fruit and spice; it's quite harmonious, though also very young and needs another year at least to come together. A nice interweave of fruit and oak. On the palate it's ample, and savory with dusky bitter fruit supported by savory notes and considerable cedar that flows into a decidedly savory cedar laced finish, oak in spades, and if you like the style you will like it. But you have to like heavily oaked wines, because even though wine can beg youth now, the oak will remain with time, and in future years will continue to emerge. I found it excessive, but I am not a fan of small oak barrels.
2 stars

Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso IGT 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with an initial rush of cedar that is balanced by berry fruit and spice; nice balance though at present it's very young and the oak is leading the dance. On the palate it's rich, with powerful dusky berry fruit supported by considerable pencil shaving and graphite shaving bitterness that flow into a clean bitter finish. It's quite elegant, in a dusky key, and if you prefer wines that revolve more around acidity than bitterness you will enjoy it, though you will find things overtones plumb even if you prefer more lively, aggressive wines. An excellent balance of oak and fruit.
2 stars

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2009
Pink with electric pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with dusky berry fruit laced with sweetness and underbrush; it has a languid slightly greenish feel to it and I might have liked a little more richness than I found. On the palate it's bright, however, with rich sour raspberry cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are light and deft, but add depth; the overall impression is pleasant and it will drink nicely with cold cuts, mixed antipasti and similar, and will also be a nice cookout wine.
2 stars

Antonio Tringali-Casanuova Bolgheri Rosso Patrimonio Tringali Casanuova Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and fairly fresh, with plum laced floral accents and violets mingled with underlying greenish notes and spice; though it's quite young it's pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample with rich slightly sour cherry plum fruit supported by savory slightly balsamic acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight cedary burr and flow into a dusky bitter finish. It will drink quite well with grilled meats, especially rare red meats such as a porterhouse steak, and I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Antonino Trinagli Casanuova Renzo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by some spice with underlying sweetness; a fellow taster says it reminds him of Port, and as I resniff I realize he has a point. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with bright rich cherry plum fruit supported by greenish vegetal accents and deft mineral acidity, while the tannins are quite smooth and flow into a clean fresh rather mineral berry fruit finish with graphite shaving bitterness and some underlying sweetness. I would give it 3-5 years, because it may become ethereal and rather lacy with time.
2 stars

Pianali

Pianali Biserno Coronato Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with considerable nutmeg spice aced with sandalwood and some sweetish berry fruit; it's pleasant in a spicy international key. On the palate it's ample and fairly rich, with clean spicy berry fruit supported by moderate mineral intensity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more freshness and drive to the fruit, but enjoyed it, and it will drink nicely with simple grilled meats or light strews, Finish warm and plum laced with balsamic accents.
2 stars

The Wines of Bolgheri, Presented in 2009

Bolgheri is where it all began on the Tuscan Coast, and even though Sassicaia was already attracting international acclaim by the time the first Bolgheri DOC was established in 1983, the authorities chose to regulate the production of whites and rosés, leaving vintners to follow their whims when it came to reds, which were all classified as table wine. Though this was obviously a slight to the red wines, it wasn't as negative as it may seem, because it gave the vintners tremendous freedom to experiment. Some chose to use exclusively French varietals, and others various mixtures of Italian and French. The DOCG established in 1994 recognizes the reds, while maintaining the freedom:

• Bolgheri Bianco can be made from: 20-70% Trebbiano Toscano 20-70% Vermentino 20-70% Sauvignon Blanc Up to 30% other varietlas authorized by the province of Livorno (e.g. Malvasia Bianca)
• Bolgheri Vermentino must contain at least 85% Vermentino
• Bolgheri Sauvignon must contain at least 85% Sauvignon
• Bolgheri Rosato is made from Sangiovese, Cabernet and Merlot, plus other red varietals authorized by the Province of Livorno
• Bolgheri Rosso and Bolgheri Rosso Superiore can be made from: 10-80% Cabernet Sauvignon Up to 70% Merlot Up to 70% Sangiovese Up to 30 % other grapes authorized by the Province of Livorno (e.g. Syrah)
• Bolgheri Sassicaia must be made in the Sassicaia subzone (Marchese Niccolò Incisa della Rocchetta's vineyards) and contain at least 80% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Yields? 100 quintals/hectare for whites, 90 for Rossi, 80 for Rossi Superiori and 60 for Sassicaia. With the possible exception of Sassicaia these are high, at least with vineyards planted to moderate densities. However, a number of producers are planting to very high densities; if one has 9,000 vines per hectare each yielding a kilo of grapes, the quality should be quite good despite a high yield per hectare because the individual vines are producing small amounts.

Cellaring? As you might expect, most of the whites are released the spring following the harvest, as are the rosés. Bolgheri Rosso can also be released the year following the harvest. Bolgheri Rosso Superiore must instead mature for at least two years from the January following the harvest, a minimum of 12 months in wood and 6 months in bottle. Sassicaia also has to be aged two years, 18 months of which in barriques.

Having said all this, the wines tasted at the Bolgheri DOCG presentation on May 29 2009. The order is that in which the Bolgheri Superiore was presented, because it was the wine I started with:

Ferrari Iris
Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pyrope with black reflections; poured dink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with jammy cassis fruit supported by some spice, some greenish accents, and quite a bit of alcohol. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful black currant fruit supported by alcohol, sweetness (derived in part from alcohol), and splintery tannins that have a slight cedar underpinning; there isn't much acidity to provide direction, and therefore the tannins step in, doing an adequate job for now. In the future they may do less well.
2 stars

Ferrari Iris Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with powerful ripe, jammy cherry fruit supported by cassis and graphite shavings, with some spice and hints of vegetal accents. Nice balance and bright, in a rich fruit driven key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich slightly chalky cherry fruit supported by peppery spice with nutmeg overtones and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long cherry black currant finish. Elegant in a rather swank lusciously curvy style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much. If you prefer more austere wines it won't work as well for you, however. It's ready, but will also age nicely for a decade or more.
88-90

Campo al Noce
Campo al Noce Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Pale brassy white with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice supported by green apricot acidity and savory notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich bitter minerality supported by some spice, and by greenish vegetal accents that flow into a fairly long bitter vegetal finish. Direct, and will work well as an aperitif, or with simple fish dishes.
1 star

Campo al Noce Miterre Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep back pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes and spice, mingled with warmth and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's languid, with moderately intense plum black currant fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins. A bit soft.
1 star

Campo al Noce Assiolo IGT 2006
This is a blend of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable iodine, savory notes, and alcohol, but not much fruit. Some balsam. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and considerable bitterness that flows into a clean fairly bitter finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found.
1 star

Campo al Noce Syrah IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright jammy black currant fruit supported by some greenish spice; nice balance and fair depth. On the palate it's bright, with rich plum currant fruit supported by ample smooth sweet tannins, and by bitter mineral acidity that provides direction and leads into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with mineral tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and still quite young; it needs a couple of years to get its bearings, but promises quite well in a distinctly international key.
2 stars

Campo al Noce Riverbero Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful, and fruit laced, an explosion in a violet shop with considerable black currant overlay laced with deft greenish freshly sliced bell pepper. Nice balance and fresh, in a voluptuous fruit driven key. On the palate it's full, with powerful black currant fruit supported by bright black currant acidity and very smooth tannins that have a slight bitter graphite underpinning and flow into a fairly long currant finish. Pleasant in a voluptuous fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much Because of its smooth fruitiness it will also work well by the glass far from the table.
88-90

Donna Olimpia 1868
Donna Olimpia 1868 Obizzo IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with pale rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice and heather mingled with minerality and some peppery notes, also slight gooseberry. On the palate it's ample and direct with white berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and spice. Some savory accents in finish.
1 star

Donna Olimpia 1868 Agoghè Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with red berry fruit supported by deft mineral acidity. Nice balance in a slightly redder fruit-driven key than some. On the palate it's ample, with deft raspberry fruit supported by some citric accents, which flow into a clean bright citric finish with underlying red berry fruit accents. Nice wine that will be perfect at a picnic or cookout.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Tageto IGT 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a great rush of graphite shavings mingled with spice and some green bell pepper; also forest berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied and bright, with fairly rich greenish bell pepper laced berry fruit supported by clean acidity and smooth tannins that have a glancing mineral overlay and flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant, in a bright youthful key, and will drink nicely with grilled meats or even fried foods.
2 stars

Donna Olimpia Millepassi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry and black currant fruit supported by graphite shavings and cedar; it's a little duskier than I might have liked. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry and black currant fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly disquieting underlying savory bitterness that brings wet leather to mind, and flow into a fairly long bitter finish. It's missing something, perhaps a little richness of fruit.
1 star

Batzella
Batzella Mezzodì Bolgheri Bianco 2008
Brilliant brassy yellow with white highlights and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with tropical fruit, passion fruit to be precise, mingled with green apricot and some spice. Nice balance in a rather languid key. On the palate it's ample, in a rather languid key, though there is acidity to provide direction, with bright white berry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by slightly greenish accents that flow into a clean greenish finish that's fairly long. It's pleasant, and will drink well with a wide variety of flavorful fish dishes, also with cheese-filled ravioli and similar.
2 stars

Batzella Pinksy Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with dusky reflections and onionskin rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some red berry fruit supported by dusky mineral acidity and some spice; it's deft, and very much a rose. On the palate it's moderately intense, with bright lemony citric fruit that has some red berry fruit overtones, and flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish, while there are some tannins, but they are smooth and relatively light. Nice as an aperitif or with picnic foods.
2 stars

Batzella Digià Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2008
Digià means already, and is clearly a reference to the youth of the wine. Lively black cherry ri black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is young, with bright forest berry fruit supported by some bitter accents and greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's light, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by bright currant acidity, and by tannins that have a warm splintery burr with quite a bit of alcohol underpinning it all. Pleasant, in a bright fresh key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

Batzella Pean Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of alcohol mingled with pungent notes and brambly spice; there's not much fruit but there are dry vegetal notes that bring artichokes to mind. On the palate it's richer than the nose suggests, with fairly intense savory berry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth splintery tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a middle of the road key, and though I wouldn't drink it far from the table it will work well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and will also age nicely for 3-5 years at least.
2 stars

Batzella Bliss IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim; poured ink. The bouquet is very young, with greenish accents mingled with some berry fruit and spice; the greenish accents are carrying the show at present. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by ample sweet tannins that have a sweet cedar overlay and flow into a fairly long greenish cedary finish. It's settled, not to say spread out, and I'd have expected more tightness and depth from a young wine
1 star

Batzella Tàm Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black pyrope ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with quite a bit of cedar and some plum currant fruit; the impression is brooding, and somewhat closed, but also gives an impression of trying very hard. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich currant fruit supported by savory accents and moderate acidity, while the tannins are a touch splintery and bitter, with distinct cedar underpinning. It's more of a food wine than a wine to be sipped now, and will work well with hearty roasts or stews, including game.
2 stars

La Cipriana
La Cipriana Paguro Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and pale white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some butterscotch and bitterness mingled with greenish accents and very ripe tropical fruit that has an overripe pungency to it; there's also some heather. On the palate it's ample, with bright honeydew melon laced with some apricot acidity, and by slight greenish accents that flow into a clean bright fairly green finish. Direct, and will drink well as an aperitif or with simple fish.
1 star

La Cipriana Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with spice and gum Arabic mingled with savory accents and alcoholic warmth, though there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by deft almost sugary spice, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean spicy finish. It's a bit one-dimensional; what you see is what there is, and not much in the way of complexity.
1 star

La Cipriana San Martino Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and pyrope rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory slightly balsamic accents mingled with some leather and the pungency of cut flower stems, as well as peppery spice and graphite shavings; underlying it all is prune and black currant fruit. On the palate it's ample, with rich bright currant fruit supported by bright black currant acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have dusky bitter overtones, and flow into a clean cassis-laced finish. Pleasant, in a slightly scrappy key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats, especially things such as steak I found it growing upon me, and would expect it to age nicely for a decade or more. Worth seeking out
2 stars

Greppi Cupi
Greppi Cupi Greppi Cupi Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with strawberry acidity and vegetal accents, and deft spicy underpinning. On the palate it's bright, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean bright mineral and berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm glancing burr, and flow into a clean bright fairly mineral finish with lasting warmth and a fair amount of alcohol. Deft, in a rather scrappy tomboyish key, and will drink nicely with succulent frilled meats or light stews. If you like the style, you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Greppi Cupi Rubino dei Greppi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is intense, with mineral notes mingled with graphite bitterness and some cedar; the combination is graceful and somehow lacy. On the palate it's bright, with clean rich berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit spice and by tannins that have an appealing graphite-cedar bitterness and flow into a clean rather bitter black currant finish. Quite pleasant, and will work very well with succulent red meats. Expect it to age well for a decade too.
88-90

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi
Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Ocra Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with jammy berry black currant fruit supported by spice and some vegetal accents and greenish berry fruit jam. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour black current fruit supported by bright strawberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a bright slightly greenish finish. Pleasant, in a rather scrappy key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Tenute Guicciardini Strozzi Vignarè Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and bright, with black currant fruit supported by lively strawberry acidity and some vegetal notes that develop into grilled pepper as the wine opens. Nice balance, in a muscular, youthful key. On the palate it's full and rich in a direct up front manner, with fairly rich cassis fruit supported by dusky tannins that have a cedary overlay and flow into a long toasted coffee ground finish -- lots of char in the oak barrels, and it transferred to the wine. If you like the style you will enjoy it, but you have to like strongly oaked wines.
1 star

I Greppi
I Greppi Greppicante Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with hints of band-aid mingled with red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's fairly full, with moderate fruit supported by splintery greenish tannins that flow into a greenish finish.
1 star

I Greppi Greppicaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with spice mingled with some gum Arabic, but not much in the way of fruit, at least not at the outset. Bitterness, but not fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, with cassis fruit supported by mineral bitterness and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish that reveals some coffee ground bitterness as it fades. I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit; it gives an impression of having been sapped some by oak.
1 star

I Luoghi
I Luoghi Podere Ritorti Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections, Fairly direct nose, with berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and spice, also greenish accents and some balsamic notes. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright slightly balsamic cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or light stews.
2 stars

I Luoghi Campo al Fico Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cassis and black cherry fruit supported by sliced bell pepper and considerable graphite shaving bitterness; it's quite young, and gives an impression of being in mid stride yet. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cassis fruit supported by some dusky acidity, and very smooth tannins laced with graphite bitterness that flow into a pleasant graphite laced finish. Pleasant in a rather graceful willowy key, and will also age nicely for 8-10 years.
2 stars

Fornacelle
Fornacelle Zizzolo Vermentino IGT 2008
Brassy gold with brassy highlights. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and some gooseberry mingled with spice and savory heather. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright white berry fruit supported by greenish acidity and some spice that flows into a fairly bitter greenish finish.
1 star

Fornacelle Bianco IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with yellow berry fruit supported by some gooseberry and greenish accents, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, and soft, with moderately intense bitter minerality mingled with some acidity, which flows into a fairly greenish finish. Direct, and up front.
1 star

Fornacelle Zizzolo Rosso Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bell pepper accents and savory spice mingled with forest berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean savory spice and greenish vegetal accents, while the tannins are cedar laced, and flow into a warm cedar laced finish.
1 star

Fornacelle Guardaboschi Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, with cedar-laced grilled bell pepper; classic Cabernet and quite pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with clean sour berry fruit laced with bell pepper acidity and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm vegetal finish. Quite nice, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it will drink well now with succulent red meats, in particular hearty roasts along the lines of leg of lamb, or stews -- wild boar with an abundance of juniper berries would be perfect. It also has the wherewithal to age nicely for a decade or more.
89-91

Collemassari Grattamacco
Collemassari Grattamacco Bianco Bolgheri Vermentino DOC 2007
Pale brassy gold with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some honeydew melon and minerality mingled with greenish spice. On the palate it's ample and rather soft, with underlying bitterness and minerality that flow into a clean mineral finish with underlying greenish bitterness. Fairly direct, but pleasant to drink, and will work nicely as an aperitif or with simple pasta or white meat dishes.
1 star

Collemassari Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and cedary spice mingled with some tart berry fruit. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm tart cherry and wild strawberry finish with lasting warmth. Quite pleasant, more on the palate than the nose, and I would give the wine a year to develop, expecting it to do nice things in the fairly short term, and age well for 5-8 years. It will work well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and also has the acidity necessary to work well with fried foods. Pleasant in a more traditional key (especially for Bolgheri), and is worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

Collemassari Grattamacco Grattamacco Rosso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some green leather and milkweed sap, mingled with bitterness, and underlying plum cassis fruit. On the palate it's moderately intense, with warm rather lax decidedly savory fruit that flows into a savory finish. It's a bit settled, and I'd have liked more brightness to it, and richer fruit, than I found.
1 star

Collemassari Grattamacco L'Alberello Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is quite fresh, with violets and considerable cassis mingled with peppery spice and graphite shavings. Pleasant, in a bright rather sexy key. On the palate it's rich, with lively black currant fruit supported by bright sour berry fruit acidity and by cedar laced tannins that have graphite shaving underpinning, and flow into a clean bright bitter mineral finish that's fairly long. Pleasant, and will drink well with grilled meats or light stews; it is very young, and if I had a few bottles I would drink one now with a steak, and set the others aside for 5-8 years. Grew on me.
2 stars

Argentiera
Argentiera Poggio ai Ginepri Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, and a touch rustic, with balsamic notes mingled with savory spice and a fair amount of alcohol; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with, again, less fruit than I might have expected; what there is is cassis plum and lax, supported by ample smooth rather soft tannins. I'd have liked more depth, tightness, and brilliance.
1 star

Argentiera Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with sour bell pepper that brings peperonata, the classic Italian stewed peppers, to mind, mingled with hints of tomato leaves. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have peppery accents and considerable graphite bitterness that flow into a clean bitter finish. Pleasant in a very international key, though also a touch dry; I'd have liked a little more richness to the fruit, which seems to have suffered some from the oak. In its defense it is quite young, and will likely clean up well, becoming lacy with time.
2 stars

Castello di Bolgheri
Castello di Bolgheri Varvara Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced greenish berry fruit supported by spice and hardwood ash, with a certain alcoholic pungency as well. Not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by greenish graphite shaving bitterness and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean alcohol laced finish with lasting bitterness. Direct, and up front.
1 star

Castello di Bolgheri Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is up in the air; a fellow taster talks about coffee, while I find wet cloth at the outset, and as it airs it reveals iodine and bell pepper with some graphite shavings. In mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with dusky berry fruit laced with bell peppers and supported by dusky tannins that have considerable bitter bell pepper warmth, and flow into a fruit laced finish with underlying warm savory bitterness. It's more interesting on the palate than the nose but in mid stride here too; it needs at least a year and perhaps two to get its bearings, and will (I think) become interesting with time, in a fairly rich international key. But we're not there yet.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini
Giovanni Chiappini Le Grottine Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Brassy yellow with greenish accents and brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some vegetal notes mingled with minerality and deft aromas of a Tuscan field in summer. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with savory minerality supported by clean bright mineral acidity that flows into a deft fairly mineral finish with some tart underpinnings, and is fairly long. Quite approachable, in a direct key, and will drink well with simple antipasti or light fish dishes.
2 stars

Giovanni Chiappini Felciano Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2008
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with warm brambly notes mingled with saddle leather and spice. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich sour berry fruit supported by brambly accents and green leather, flow into a fairly tart bitter finish. Direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews,.
1 star

Giovanni Chiappini Lienà IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum laced cedar supported by underlying greenish bitterness, also from oak. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with moderate fruit supported by clean bitter accents that flow into a bitter cassis laced finish. A lot of oak, and I'm not sure the wine will ever absorb it completely.
1 star

Giovanni Chiappini Guado De' Gemoli Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and dark cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright chalky berry fruit supported by cedar laced spice and some leather, with underlying warm savory balsamic notes and jammy accents. Very much in mid stride. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry and black currant fruit supported by warm grilled pepper acidity and considerable cedar from the tannins, which are warm and savory, and flow into a warm bitter savory finish. It's fairly direct, and still coming together; I would give it a year to get its bearings, but am not sure how complex it will ultimately become.
1 star

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf
Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Achenio Bolgheri Bianco 2008
Brilliant brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with vegetal notes and heather supported by sour tropical fruit and some greenish notes, also heather and heathery acidity. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich languid mineral laced tropical fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by some savory accents. The palate is laxer than I might have liked, and falls flat towards the finish; I'd have preferred more tightness and acidity to it. This said, if you like ample soft white wines, it will work nicely as an aperitif.
1 star

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arioso IGT 2008
Pale greenish white with greenish reflections. The bouquet is intense with considerable gooseberry laced with sweaty blonde; the word Sauvignon comes insistently to mind. On the palate it's bright, with tart minerality laced with some savory accents that (again) bring a sweaty blonde to mind, and though this descriptor might revolt some, the wine is pleasant, and will drink well as an aperitif or with fish or egg based dishes, also with creamy risotti and such.
2 stars


Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Adeo Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by dusky shadow and cedar with some grilled bell pepper vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by warm vegetal notes and cedar, with quite a bit of alcohol, and also cedar laced acidity. Charged, and the alcohol is intense, but it will work well with flavorful stews (boar comes to mind) or hearty, flavorful roasts. If you like the style it is enjoyable.
2 stars

Campo alla Sughera di Knauf Arnione Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with pyrope reflections and some violet in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with considerable cassis supported by graphite shavings, and while it's quick to write, it's also harmonious in a fairly direct key. On the palate it's full, with rich cassis fruit supported by mineral acidity and by smooth graphite laced tannins that flow into a fairly long cassis finish with a fair underpinning of alcohol and bitterness. It's pleasant in an up front, direct way; what you see is what you get. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much; it's one of those wines that doesn't demand attention, but will contribute considerably to the meal it's served with..
2 stars

Tenuta San Guido
San Guido Sassicaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, and a bit unusual, with cut squash -- Italian zucca gialla, which is a cross between small pumpkin and butternut -- supported by warmth and alcohol, and as it opens some mint emerges as well too, mingled with green leather. In mid stride? On the palate it's fairly rich, with ample black currant plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by very smooth tannins that have bitter graphite accents, and flow into a rather peppery cassis laced finish with smooth tannic underpinning with lasting warmth. Pleasant in a direct key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews in the short term; it does display elegance and will increase in complexity with time, and age well for a decade or more. Needs time to develop.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso
Guado al Tasso Vermentino Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Brassy white with slightly greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with heather and white flowers supported by mineral acidity and some greenish notes, supported by a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's deft, with moderately intense mineral acidity supported by some citric accents and smooth slightly peppery spice that flows into a clean green apricot finish. It will work well as an aperitif, or with simple fish dishes.
1 star

Guado al Tasso Scalabrone Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale rosy pink with pink highlights and white rim. The bouquet is inviting, with bright berry fruit supported by heather and some honeydew melon and also by pleasant acidity with underlying tartness. Nice balance On the palate it's light, with deft white berry fruit acidity supported by some raspberry notes, and by considerable warmth that flows into clean tart finish. A pleasant aperitif that will also work nicely with foods, especially in a picnic scenario.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Bruciato Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some pungent spice and hints of balsam mingled with vegetal accents and some iodine. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit, primarily cassis, supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate mineral acidity that flow into a clean rather bitter finish. Pleasant in a middle of the road key, though fairly direct, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, though I'm not sure I would drink it by the glass.
2 stars

Guado al Tasso Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents mingled with graphite shavings and some chalk dust, and underlying savory vegetal notes. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with a rich cassis fruit supported by mineral acidity and smooth graphite laced tannins that flow into a finish with lasting bitterness and savory accents. Nice balance, and elegant, though very young, and still has a ways to go. It will work very well with foods -- the bitterness of the tannins is such that I wouldn't be tempted to drink it by the glass. But with succulent meats… A different story.
2 stars

Tenuta Dell'Ornellaia
Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit laced with wood smoke and some bell pepper vegetal accents, also pungent spice. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by bright slightly sour berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh rather bitter finish. Nice balance, and will drink quite well with foods, from grilled meats through light stews. Expect it to age nicely for 3-6 years at least.
2 stars

Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with warm berry fruit laced with leather and eucalyptus, with underlying cedar and roasted bell pepper and considerable leather. Very young. On the palate it's ample, with rich cassis fruit supported by tannins that are deft, and have a splintery greenish butt and flow into a clean bright fruit laced tannic finish. Very young, and needs at least 3-5 years to come into its own. Will also age quite nicely for a decade or perhaps two, but really isn't ready yet. Great potential, but for the future. To drink it now would be an infanticide.
2 stars

Sapaio
Sapaio Volpolo Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is smoky, with some barnyard tang mingled with warmth and balsamic acidity On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by warmth, and berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedary overlay and flow into a slightly greenish warm tannic finish. It's quite young, and needs another year at least to get its bearings and come together.
2 stars

Sapaio Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with savory accents mingled with graphite shavings and some balsamic notes; there are also underlying grilled pepper accents. On the palate it's full, with warm bell pepper laced savory berry fruit supported by slightly splintery savory tannins that flow into a warm tannic finish. It's lumbering now, but also has yet to get its bearings; I would give it a year or two because at present it's trying very hard, but not quite there. It will in any case drink quite well with succulent to fatty grilled or roasted meats.
2 stars

Michele Satta
Michele Satta Bolgheri Bianco 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tropical fruit and some spice mingled with citric acidity. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright citric fruit and deft acidity that flows into a clean fairly bright citric finish with some bitter undertones. Pleasant, and will drink quite well as an aperitif or with fish, or white meats.
2 stars

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with onion skin highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with heather and some bitterness mingled with sage and raspberry fruit. Nice depth. On the palate it's bright, with deft berry fruit supported by clean raspberry fruit acidity and by moderately intense tannins that flow into a clean rather sour finish. Pleasant as an aperitif, and will also drink nicely with a variety of pasta dishes, quickly cooked meats, and even pizza.
2 stars

Michele Satta Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit -- mostly cassis -- laced with iodine and some balsamic notes, also savory accents and spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich black currant fruit that gains direction from savory berry fruit acidity and is supported by very smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh black currant finish. Pleasant in an international key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Michele Satta I Castagni Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with purple rim; poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and very young, with red berry fruit supported by India ink and tart gum Arabic, with spice and underlying alcohol. On the palate it's fairly direct, with ample soft plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth tannins that flow into a clean savory tannic finish. I'd have liked greater depth and richness than I found.
1 star

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova
Antonino Tringali-Casanuova Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Lively salmon with salmon reflections and onion skin rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit laced with alcohol and some spice, also greenish accents and heather. On the palate it's ample and bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by clean fresh berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a tart finish. Pleasant and will work well as an aperitif, or at picnics, or with first course dishes-- pasta seasoned with white sauces and such.
2 stars

Antonino Triangali-Casanuova Patrimonio Tringali Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby; poured ink. The bouquet is intense, with iodine and spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and soft, with sweet currant fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and well polished tannins that flow into a clean slightly black currant fruit finish. It's ample and very soft.
1 star

Antonino Tringali-Casanuova Renzo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with savory notes mingled with balsam and some sea salt, also alcohol. Surprisingly tertiary, but it is a 2005; there are also cheese rinds as it opens. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit and ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly soft finish. It seems dilute, and one also has the feeling that the grapes had a hard time ripening.
1 star

Aia Vecchia
Aia Vecchia Lagone IGT 2007
Deep black pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with iodine and black currant fruit supported by some sour accents, bell peppers, and underlying graphite. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich black current fruit supported by brisk berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. It's pleasant in a fairly direct up front key, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age well for 3-5 years.
2 stars

Aia Vecchia Sor Ugo Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish bell pepper laced with spice and cedar with some gum Arabic overtones. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit and considerable savory warmth that is supported by sour savory acidity, and by smooth cedar laced tannins that flow into a warm finish. A child of the vintage.
1 star

Caccia al Piano
Caccia al Piano Ruith Hora Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is muted; swishing brings up alcohol and hints of black currant fruit supported by some gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample and soft, with black currant fruit and moderate rather mineral acidity coupled with, glancing tannins.
1 star

Caccia al Piano Levia Gravia Bolgheri Superiore DOC 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and alcohol mingling with graphite and some gum Arabic, also slight bell pepper. But not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins; the palate is richer than the nose and also more interesting, and though here is warmth and a cedary cast to the tannins the fruit has a pleasing delicacy, and leads into a warm fairly rich fruit laced finish. Pleasant, and a nice expression of a fairly difficult year; one could drink it now, though it has the legs to age well for 5-8 years.
2 stars

Terre del Marchesato
Terre del Marchesato Emilio Primo Vermentino IGT 2008
Screw cap. Brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some herbs, mingled with minerality and some tart citric notes that provide direction and depth. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich minerality supported by peppery spice and moderately intense bitterness that flows into a fairly bitter mineral finish.
1 star

Terre del Marchesato Papeo IGT 2007
Huge & heavy bottle. The wine is brassy gold with brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with very ripe white berry fruit supported by alcohol and some butterscotch; it seems to be casting about as if it were trying to find its way. Also alcohol and hints of dried mushrooms. On the palate it's ample, and savory, with powerful minerality more than fruit, supported by spice and underlying bitterness.
1 star

Terre del Marchesato Tarabuso IGT 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol mingled with iodine and some greenish spice, also a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, with moderately intense cassis fruit overshadowed by cedary tannins with some minerality, which flow into a cedar laced splintery finish.
1 star

Terre del Marchesato Marchesale IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with bright slightly greenish cedar mingled with hardwood ash and spice, and some underlying black currant fruit. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich black berry fruit supported by cedar laced tannins and some balsamic accents that flow into a fairly long greenish finish that's a little drier and more tannic than I'd have liked.
1 star

Terre del Marchesato Emilio Primo Rosso IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is very fresh, and very young, with powerful cassis fruit supported by some graphite shavings and some sweetness, also greenish accents and some concord grape; it ahs a luscious curviness about it that brings a starlet to mind. On the palate it's ample, with rich black currant fruit supported by some savory bitterness, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean black currant finish with warm savory notes that give depth. Pleasant in a very young key, and will drink quite well with grilled meats, light stews, or simple roasts. Expect the bottle to go quickly
2 stars

Le Grascete
Le Grascete Grale Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with iodine and graphite shavings mingled with alcohol and some cassis fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly rich, with bright black currant fruit supported by brambly acidity and alcoholic warmth, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly rich cassis laced finish. Pleasant in an up-front international key, with a fair amount of power, and will drink well with foods. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Le Grascete Antero IGT 2007
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with a rush of grilled bell pepper supported by warmth, alcohol, and some graphite shavings. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by graphite laced tannins and mineral acidity that flow into a clean bright mineral finish with graphite underpinning. Pleasant, in a light, rather scrappy key, and will drink very well with foods in the short term, while it also has the wherewithal to age well for a few years. Expect the bottle to go quickly.,
2 stars

Poggio al Tesoro
Poggio al Tesoro Vermentino Solosole IGT 2008
Pale brassy white with greenish highlights and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with strong gooseberry laced with some greenish accents, and underlying alcohol, though gooseberry is what stands out -- Sauvignon? On the palate it's ample, with bright white berry fruit supported by savory notes, mineral acidity and spice that flow into a clean savory tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink quite well as an aperitif or with fish or white meats.
2 stars

Poggio al Tesoro Sondraia Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections,. The bouquet is a bit overripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by cassis and some greenish notes. On the palate it's full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean greenish acidity and considerable spicy warmth.
1 star

Poggio al Tesoro Dedicato a Walter IGT 2006
Impenetrable black pyrope with cherry rim -- poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced black currant fruit supported by some greenish notes and a certain pungency that gain depth from spice. Quite a bit of oak. On the palate it's ample, and oaky, with moderately intense cassi laced berry fruit supported by dusky bitter tannins that flow into a clean decidedly bitter cedar laced finish. I'd have liked greater depth than I found, and also a bit less oak.
1 star

Poggio al Tesoro Mediterra IGT 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with berry fruit laced with some bell pepper and pleasing spice, and underlying graphite shavings. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cassis laced with minerality and chalk, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh mineral laced cassis finish. A touch more brightness to the fruit might have been nice, but it is pleasant, and will drink well with succulent red meats. I found it growing upon me.
2 stars

Le Macchiole
Le Macchiole Paleo Bianco IGT 2007
Pale brassy yellow with brassy reflections and yellow rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with greenish accents and spice, and some tropical fruit, with underlying butterscotch and hints of cedar. On the palate it's ample and bright, with fairly rich clean mineral laced acidity supported by smooth sweet tannins from wood, and by clean bright acidity that flows into a deft finish. Pleasant, and the palate is at present more interesting than the nose - this is youth - it will drink nicely as an aperitif and will also age nicely for 3-5 years- In short, it has something to say.
2 stars

Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso IGT 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is tremendously oaky, a great rush of bitter cedar with some alcohol that covers most everything, and is, to be frank, a bit offputting. On the palate it's ample, with moderate berry fruit supported by considerable oaky bitterness that flows into a decidedly bitter cedar laced finish. The wine brings to mind those geese who are nailed to the floor and force fed to fatten their livers, only here the feed is oak.
1 star

Casa di Terra
Casa di terra Vermentino IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with slight greenish highlights and bright brassy highlights. The bouquet is rich, with floral accents and cut flowers laced with sea salt and some tropical fruit, in particular, hints of pineapple and apricot. But greenish overall. On the palate it's ample, with bright tart mineral laced lemony fruit supported by bright lemony acidity and by peppery accents that lead into clean lemony finish with peppery spice. It's bracing, and will work quite well as an aperitif with egg or cheese based antipasti, or with fish at table. Especially succulent grilled fish along the lines of sea bass, or even salmon.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Allegra Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pale salmon with pink reflections and white rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour raspberry fruit supported by lemony acidity and some greenish accents; nicely balanced and there is also heather and sage form a Tuscan field. On the palate it's bright, with considerable minerality supported by moderate red berry fruit and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a distinctly mineral finish. It will work well as an aperitif, and because of its minerality will contrast richer dishes better than some other rosés.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Maronea Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Impenetrable pigeon blood ruby; poured ink. The bouquet at the outset brings to mind a slim Jim, something Americans of my generation will identify with, but others may not -- it was a spicy meat snack sold at news-stands; as it opens savory accents and bell pepper emerge. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and spice, and by smooth sweet tannins that do have some savory accents, and flow into a clean bright fairly tart finish. Will drink well with succulent roast or light stews.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Mosaico Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black Almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents and spice mingled with some black pepper. Not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by slightly mineral black currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright black currant finish. Fairly direct, but pleasant, and will drink well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and also will age nicely for 3-5 years or more.
2 stars

Casa di Terra Moreccio Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2008
Impenetrable pyrope. The bouquet is a bit funky, with berry fruit laced with some nail polish remover and wet green leather. Not as clean as it might be. On the palate it's ample, with moderate cherry cassis fruit supported by warm splintery tannins that have a bitter underpinning. Fairly direct, and up front, not much in the way of complexity.
1 star

Serni Fulvio Luigi
Serni Fulvio Luigi Campofitto IGT 2008
Brassy yellow with brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with heather and some gooseberry laced with spice and some greenish accents. On the palate it's bright, with savory accents and minerality supported by peppery spice that flows into a fairly bright savory finish. Direct, and fairly up front, what you see is what you get.
1 star

Serni Fulvio Luigi Arcanto Bolgheri Rosato DOC 2008
Pink, with electric pink reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish berry fruit supported by heather from a filed in the sun, and by slightly sour raspberry fruit. On the palate it's deft, with bright sour berry fruit supported by citric acidity and smooth, light tannins that flow into a clean tart finish. Pleasant, and will be nice either as an aperitif or with picnic foods, or even at a cookout, especially one that features fish on the grill.
2 stars

Serni Fulvio Luigi Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is young and fairly rich, with jammy berry fruit that has some bell pepper jam accents, and is supported by brisk vegetal acidity and some spice. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins, while direction comes from lively berry fruit acidity with greenish accents, and it all flows into a fairly long alcoholic finish with greenish fruit underpinning. Charged, but pleasant, and will drink well with flavorful grilled meats or stews, also with simple roasts. I found it growing upon me. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Campo al Mare
Campo al Mare Vermentino Campo al Mare Bolgheri Vermentino 2008
Barry yellow with some greenish accents and pale brassy reflections. The bouquet is pungent, with sour white fruit supported by greenish acidity and overripe (?) flowers, while there are also savory almost balsamic accents as well. On the palate it's full, and quite savory, with moderately rich sour white berry fruit supported by savory acidity that flows into a fairly charged savory finish. In short, it's a wine that feels the influence of the sea. In terms of accompaniments, it will work well with fish based antipasti, egg dishes, or grilled or roasted fish.
2 stars

Campo al Mare Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit and plums supported by spice, nutmeg in particular, and floral accents, with some alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit that has a black currant overlay, and gains direction from black currant acidity, while the tannins are smooth and sweet, and polished enough that they seem smaller than they are. Pleasant in an international key, and will drink quite well with foods: worth seeking out if you like the style.
2 stars

La Pineta
La Pineta Donne Fittipaldi Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2007
Deep pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with black currant fruit laced with berry fruit jam, wet leather and hints of iodine. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, with fairly sweet black currant fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, and by smooth sweet graphite laced tannins that flow into a bright graphite finish with clean sweet cassis underpinning. Pleasant in a decidedly international fruit driven key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Pianali Biserno
Pianali Biserno Coronato Bolgheri Rosso DOCG 2006
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with barnyard tang mingled with balsamic notes, greenish acidity, and warmth; also some savory spice. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich languid cherry cassis fruit supported by moderate acidity and by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean ample cassis finish. A bit of a surprise, because I usually associate this sort of nose with tarter brighter fruit on the body, and here we have a degree of languid overripeness. If you like the style you will like it, but you have to like the style.
1 star