Showing posts with label Piemontese wines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Piemontese wines. Show all posts

Friday, June 22, 2012

La Bruciata: Moscato & More




A couple of years ago Oscar Bosio, who is best known for his Moscato, contacted me via Facebook and asked me to stop at his stand at Vinitaly. I did, for what I thought would be a quick stop, only to discover he makes all sorts of wines, all worth thinking about. This year I didn't make it to his stand, and he kindly sent samples to me.

La Bruciata Langhe Arneis DOC 2011
Lot AR04.12
Pale slightly greenish brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and white rim. The bouquet is intense, with pleasant citrus, a mixture of citron and tangerine, mingled with some minerality and underlying slightly mentholated heather, all supported by sea salt. On the palate it's bright, with lively mineral laced brambly citrus that reveals heathery vegetal accents as it flows into the finish, which is long. It's quite refreshing, with considerable backbone, and will work very well with summer foods, including fried fish or meats, and also has the wherewithal to age nicely for at least 2-3 years; while its freshness now is nice if I had a case I'd set a couple of bottles aside, because they could provide a pleasant surprise.
90-91

La Bruciata Langhe Chardonnay DOC 2011
Lot CH 04.12
Pale brassy green with brilliant greenish reflections and white rim. The bouquet is fresh, and rather lemony, with some underlying sea salt and slight crisp green apple, and an underpinning of heather from a cut field in summer. On the palate it's softer than the Arneis, with rather languid lemony pineapple laced fruit supported by bright acidity and slight minerality that flows into a fairly long tart finish that gradually releases fairly acidic Delicious apple notes. It's a wine that will work nicely as an aperitif or with more delicate dishes -- I wouldn't serve it with fried meats or fish -- and I would drink it now to enjoy its freshness.
2 stars

La Bruciata Aivè Vino Bianco
Lot 2.10
An aivé is the opposite of a Sorì, in other words a north-facing slope, and this is a Moscato from north-facing slopes, bottled still. Because it's still -- the rules governing the appellations don't foresee a still dry Moscato -- it's a table wine, and therefore doesn't have a vintage, but from the lot number we can deduce that it's a 2010. Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections and slight greenish highlights; white rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich sugary Moscato notes mingled with menthol and heather, and rather voluptuous yellow peach, while there's also a slight counterpoint of sweaty blonde that adds complexity and depth. Particular. On the palate it's  crisp and bright, with considerable minerality supported by mineral acidity that has slight heather notes as well, and flows into a long mineral finish. It's quite tight, and much brasher than the Chardonnay, and to my way of thinking better defined, but you have to like tarter defter wines to enjoy it. If you do you will, and it is quite distinct from the more common International varietal wines..
88-90

La Bruciata Moscato D'Asti DOCG 2011
Lot MO 10 11
Pale greenish brassy yellow with fine abundant perlage, quite a bit for a Moscato. The bouquet is rich, but not overly sweet, with some honeydew melon  and slight heather supported by the sweetness that honeydew melon  can have. Quick to write but harmonious. On the palate it's full and sweet, with elegant honeydew melon  fruit that has enough acidity to keep from being cloying, and creamy fullness from the sparkle, which is quite soft, and it all flows into a fairly long honeydew melon  laced finish. Quite pleasant, and will be perfect at poolside on a hot day, or with frieds outside as the sky darkens and the stars come out. A good Moscato can be a great delight, and this one is.
90-91

La Bruciata Dolcetto D'Alba DOC 2011
Lot DO 04.12
Lively slightly purple cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is classic Dolcetto, with a mixture of red berry fruit and bitter almonds supported by some greenish brambly accents. Zesty. On the palate it's light-medium bodied, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by bitter almonds and quite a bit of sea salt, while the tannins are dusky and bitter, and have a nice bite to them. In a word, scrappy, and if you like the style it will work very well with simple grilled meats, for example burgers or ribs or chicken (the latter seasoned with herbs, not sweet sauces). It's one of those wines that will go very fast in the proper setting, and you will need a second bottle.
2 stars


La Bruciata Barbera D'Alba DOC 2010
Lot BA 04.11
Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is warm, and fairly rich, with red berry fruit supported by brambly strawberry acidity and by some mineral notes that have a touch of struck granite to them, and that gain in intensity as the wine opens. On the palate it's medium bodied, with decidedly brambly fruit supported by considerable sea salt and some balsamic savory accents, coupled with fairly bright mineral acidity and tannins that have a slight burr to them. It's rather old style, especially in the balsamic cast, and if you are looking for ripe red fruit, and smooth softness, it's not going to work for you. If you instead like scrappier wines with a bit of bite to them, it will work very well with simple grilled meats or light stews, and go quickly.
2 stars


For more information, check La Bruciata's Site.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

IGP Tastings: 2007 Barolo From Barolo, Monforte and Castiglione Falletto


The third day of the Giovani Promettenti's tastings at Wellcom's offices in Alba opened with wines from the town of Barolo (from whence the wine Barolo draws its name), followed by those of Castiglione Falletto and Monforte.

To begin with Barolo, we much enjoyed the elegance and roundness of the tannins and the readiness of some of the wines, though Alcohol continues to be a distinctive marker for the vintage, and in some of the wines is over the top.

Castiglione Falletto's wines showed the best, thanks to elegance that doesn't (as all too often happens) come at the expense of power, and also to considerable freshness that always plays a part in making wines ready to drink from the outset.

With Monforte, we had quibbles that we hope will fade with time. At present the 2007 Monforte wines seem to be mostly about immediate impact, with little thought for the future, though we are certain that this impression will fade as they develop.

Immediately after the tasting (and before unmasking the bottles, which we tasted blind) we talked about the wines and selected the 12 (out of 66) that impressed us all, publishing the list immediately. Here you will find the tasting notes for all the wines we tasted, in the order they were poured.

Wines from the Comune of Barolo

Abbona Marziano Terlo Ravera Barolo DOCG

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is vinous, with some berry fruit and moderate spice, supported by bramble, warmth, alcohol, some cedar, and nose tingling acidity. Quite young. On the palate it's full, with the directness of youth, displaying fairly bright berry fruit supported by cedary tannins and warmth, with moderate acidity that flows into a fairly long dry tannic finish with greenish cedar accents. It's very young, in a middle of the road key, with a fair amount of alcohol, and also oak that will fold in with time.
2 stars

Barone Riccardi Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some alcohol with slight berry fruit, slight cedar, and hints of tar, rosa canina and dried flowers as opens. On the palate it's full, and rather languid, with ripe fruit supported by minerality; the tannins are smooth, fairly soft, and moderately rich. A more delicate interpretation that favors finesse over power; it needs time.
2 stars

Borgogno F.lli S&B Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is brighter than some and fairly intense, with greenish cedar, leaf tobacco, some spice, and greenish leaf tobacco. It's young, and doesn't display much fruit. On the palate it's tannic, with warmth and cedar more than fruit, flowing into a cedary finish. I found it overly oaked.
1 star

Borgogno Francesco Vigna Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Lively almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, bright, and vegetal with some bell pepper and red berry fruit mingled with dusky graphite shaving bitterness and spice. Nice complexity in a youthful key. On the palate it's bright, with lively acidity and tart berry fruit supported by tannins that are warm, and have a youthful burr, flowing into a warm tart finish. Lots of acidity, and the wine will be long lived in a brash key. If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Brezza Bricco Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit, some greenish accents, spice, rhubarb, floral acents, and slight laundry soap. On the palate it's medium bodied and more mineral than acidic, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by minerality and dry splintery tannins that flow into a mineral tannic finish. The fruit falls out in mid stride, and I found myself wishing there were more. It may do interesting things in the future, because the interaction between tannin and minerality is interesting.
1 star

Brezza Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents and berry fruit mingled with graphite shaving bitterness, some dark chocolate, spice, alcohol, leaf tobacco, and all supporting tart acidity and moderate berry fruit On the palate it's fairly rich, bright berry fruit supported by smooth tannins and fairly tart berry fruit acidity, the tannins have slight burr and underlying mineral warmth, and flow into a clean bright slightly tannic finish with lasting fruit. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key.
2 stars

Brezza Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep black almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet has berry fruit supported by cedar, some prune, greenish vegetal accents, some spice, and alcohol; it's brooding, in an airy sort of way, and also in mid stride. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by mineral acidity and by dry slightly splintery tannins that lead into a long mineral finish with dry tannic underpinning moderate fruit, and considerable warmth. It's pleasant in a scrappy mineral key, and will be long lived, becoming ethereal. If you like the style you will enjoy it very much.
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Brunate Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and some spice, warmth, some alcohol, not much fruit. Rather, greenish accents and heather with warmth, slight leather, and hints iodine. On the palate it's ample, with moderate plum cherry fruit supported by dry tannins and by brighter than expected mineral sour berry fruit acidity tart enough to bring to mind green grapes, flows into a long clean finish.
2 stars

Ceretto Zonchera Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsam, mint, red berry fruit, some rhubarb, licorice root, slight brown sugar, and warmth. On the palate it's ample, smooth, and riper than some, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense tannins that are smooth, and flow into a warm tannic finish supported by moderate acidity. I'd have liked a little more force to the tannins, but it does display pleasing grace and finesse.
2 stars

Comm. G. B. Burlotto Vigneti Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with floral accents and leaf tobacco mingled with sea salt and herbs that bring gravy to mind, warmth, some vegetal accents, and spice. On the palate it's full, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by plum acidity and tannins that are smooth and moderately intense, flow into a warm plum cherry finish with deft tannic underpinning. Quite young, but promises well.
2 stars

Fenocchio Giacomo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with cherry fruit that has some jammy accents spice, vegetal notes, some leather, and slight leaf tobacco. Graceful. On the palate it's quite (unexpectedly, even) dry, with moderate fruit supported by tongue drying tannins that flow into a cedary finish with moderate minerality. I found it overly dry on the palate. A pity, because the nose is pleasant.
1 star

Gagliardo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and penetrating, with dusky greenish leather and some animal notes mingled with wood that is slightly musty, vegetal notes, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ripe, with greenish prune fruit supported by sweetness from alcohol and considerable cedar; it has a candied feel to it, a headache in the making, and flows into a cherry plum finish that's fairly sweet. Lots of quite ripe fruit with considerable oak, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you do have to like the style.
1 star

Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Poured pyrope ink. The bouquet is powerful, with jammy prune fruit floral accents and spice; casting PC aside it's a busty starlet in a glass, juicy and luscious. On the palate it's ample, soft, sweet, with berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are smooth and have a slight youthful cedary burr. Seductive in a ripe key and if you like the style you will much enjoy it.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Coste di Rose Barolo DOCG

An IGP Selection Deep pyrope with black cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by sweetness, some acidity, slight greenish vegetal accents, heather, hints of leaf tobacco, and floral notes. A seductive starlet in a glass. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish, where the tannins reveal a certain greenish dryness. Pleasant, in a rich ripe fruit key, but needs a year or two.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has berry fruit and plum cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity, greenish vegetal accents, some spice, and some alcohol; it's quite swank. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by deft mineral acidity and by tannins that are warm and slightly savory, flow into a clean tannic finish Pleasant in a brash ripe key, and this is an odd combination, but it works.
2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Terlo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has cedar, spice, warmth, some berry fruit with deft underlying berry fruit acidity, and opens nicely. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a bright middle of the road key.
2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Costa Grimaldi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit, cherries, some greenish accents, spice, and some alcohol. On the palate it's fairly bright, lively cherry fruit supported by smooth berry fruit acidity and spice. Very tannic finish. It's middle of the road in style, and needs at least a couple of years.
2 stars

Poderi Einaudi Nei Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Charged. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol, cedar, moderate berry fruit, spice, and alcohol; despite its power there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with dusky berry fruit and plums supported by alcohol and greenish tannins, flows into a warm berry fruit finish with quite a bit of alcohol, dry slightly greenish tannins carry into a greenish tannic finish.
1 star

Terre da Vino Essenze Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly green, with cedar and some plum cherry fruit supported by warmth and spice; it's fairly direct and this is in part youth. On the palate it's ample, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by crushed cherry acidity and tannins that are warm and smooth, flow into a clean savory finish. Pleasant, in a fairly direct key, and has a pleasing brashness to it, tomboyish in a ripe key, which is a trick to do but works here. The Italian word that comes to mind is ruffiano, which translates as ingratiating in the way scamps can be.
2 stars

Terre da Vino Paesi Tuoi Barolo DOCG 2007

Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, floral, and quite fresh for a Barolo, with spice, some greenish vegetal accents, plum prune fruit, some cedar, slight graphite shavings, and alcohol. On the palate it's ample and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a greenish burr, and flow into a clean plum berry fruit finish. A pleasantly savory wine with nice depth. It's very young, needs a year or two.
2 stars

Vajra G. D. Bricco Viole Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and vegetal, with prunes, some pepper, slight alcoholic sweetness, and spice; there's nice balance in a ripe but not overripe key, On the palate it's rich, with dusky cherry prune fruit supported by prune acidity and warmth; the tannins are warm and fairly sweet, with a slight burr, and flow into a prune plum finish with a greenish vegetal tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a brash key, with acidity that does a nice job of supporting quite ripe fruit. Expect it to also be long lived.
2 stars

Vajra G. D. Albe Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is complex, with alcohol, leaf tobacco, camphor, some vegetal notes, berry fruit, slight petroleum, and spice; a fellow taster finds truffles instead of petroleum, and another lathered horse. Differing associations. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense plum cherry fruit that's fairly sweet supported by smoky tannic accents and acidity that flow into a moderately dry tannic finish. I found it a bit dry, though this is also a factor of youth.
2 stars

Virna di Borgogno Cannubi Boschis Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine -- poured ink -- with almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with dusky cedar and greenish accents, alcohol, spice, and some prune fruit; it's penetrating, savory, and I would have liked more fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, and ready, with plum cherry fruit supported by dusky cedar from the tannins that colors the fruit, and there is also cocoa in the finish A heavily oaked wine, young and ripe, and if you like the style you will enjoy it, but I found oak and chocolate from oak to impinge.
1 star

Virna di Borgogno Preda Sarmassa Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets, berry fruit some spice, and greenish accents, and is pleasant though coming together. On the palate it's full, and rich, with bright berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are a touch dry, and this is a factor of youth; they flow into a fairly long cherry finish with deft tannic underpinning. Graceful, and will also age nicely for a decade at least. Give it at least 2 years before opening it.
2 stars

Wines from the Commune of Castiglione Falletto

Fenocchio Giacomo Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet has cherry fruit with some berry fruit, spice, greenish accents, acidity, and some candied fruit - jammy accents. On the palate it's pleasant, with ripe cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and tannins that are smooth and fairly rich, flow into a fairly long clean tannic finish.
2 stars

Boroli Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and quite oaky, with cedar, some berry fruit, and greenish accents; though the fruit does emerge oak predominates. On the palate it's fairly bright, with cherry fruit apparent in the attack, but then overshadowed by cedary oaky tannins that cover all, blanketing it in warmth. Oak in a glass.
1 star

Boroli Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim tending to orange. The bouquet is moderately intense, with berry fruit tartness and some vegetal accents, greenish notes, hints Marsiglia laundry soap, and spice. On the palate it's ample and fairly direct, with sour berry fruit supported by tannins that flow into a dry tannic finish; I found it overly tannic on palate and tongue drying. This in a tasting situation. There is nice acidity however, and it will work better with foods -- rich roasts and stews, in particular -- than some of the other wines we tasted, and may do interesting things with time
2 stars

Bricco Boschis Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish, with spice and peppery accents, black pepper, moderate berry fruit, and slight rubber; it's penetrating and slightly musty. On the palate it's fairly bright, with cherry fruit supported by tannins that are slight dry, and moderate berry fruit acidity, and flow into a fairly bright tannic finish with nice acidity. Needs time,
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and dusky, with animal notes, some leather, hardwood ash, considerable alcohol, and greenish notes with some burnt cork. On the palate it's ample and quite ripe, with smooth plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh fairly tart finish.
2 stars

Fontana Livia Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and aromatic, with petroleum, intense berry fruit, greenish vegetal accents, leather, spice, licorice root, rhubarb, and considerable alcohol. On the palate it's ample with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and slightly greenish, with petroleum accents. Modern in style, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But give it time.
2 stars

Fontana Livia Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with greenish leaf tobacco, spice, cedar, some berry fruit and quite a bit of alcohol with underlying hardwood ash. Pleasant. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and moderate acidity, flows into a clean slightly greenish tannic finish. Pleasant, though the tannins aren't quite as powerful as they might be. It compensates for this with elegance and richness. A touch too ready say, the others at the moment of tasting, but I found myself enjoying it and we did select it.
2 stars

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Villero Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with alcohol, dusky notes, plum fruit, nose tingling acidity, oak, peppery black pepper spice, some vegetal accents, and plum cherry fruit. On the palate it's ample with moderately rich plum fruit supported by minerality more than acidity, and by tannins that are blocky and cedar laced, flowing into a cedary finish. There as nice fruit but oak is overshadowing it; it may emerge with time and I would wait a couple of years on it, as it may do interesting things.
1 star

Sobrero Francesco Ciabot Tanasio Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine. The bouquet is animal with smoky accents, and frankly rustic, with wet stable straw as it opens. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, and flow into a warm berry fruit finish in which some of the rustic elements of the nose emerge. It's particular, and if you like the style you will enjoy it. But you have to like rustic wines.
2 stars

Sordo Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and some vegetal notes, slight berry fruit jam and spice. Nice depth. On the palate it's ample, with fairly bright berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth and fairly sweet. Though I liked the nose, I found the palate somewhat lacking in verve.
2 stars

Sordo Giovanni Rocche di Castiglione Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Lively almandine ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with lively berry fruit supported by raspberries and floral accents, some vegetal notes, and nice acidity; there's nice balance and depth. On the palate it's bright, with fresh lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and raspberry acidity that flow into a warm sour berry fruit acidity. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Sordo Giovanni Parussi Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents, fairly rich berry fruit, and some spice; it displays nice depth and complexity. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry raspberry fruit supported by smooth sweet berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are deft and smooth, with a slight burr, flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Enjoyable.
2 stars

Terre del Barolo Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with cedar that's not completely clean, and greenish accents, but not much fruit. The palate reflects the nose, with greenish cedar-laced berry fruit supported by cedary tannins that flow into a fairly green finish.
1 star

Wines from the Commune of Monforte d'Alba

Abbona Marziano Pressenda Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections - poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and frankly oaky, with considerable cedar that overshadows moderate berry fruit, and some goudron. A lot of oak, which conditions the wine. On the palate it's powerful, with peppery tannins and cherry fruit that's more intense supported by moderate acidity and peppery tannins that flow into a peppery finish. Quite aggressive in an oaky key; it needs time.
1 star

Amalia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with quite a bit of youthful oak mingled with spice, and a fair amount of alcohol, and underlying fruit. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are bright and fairly dry, with spicy peppery accents, and flows into a fairly long sour berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It has considerable potential but needs a couple of years to get its bearings. A wine to wait for.
2 stars

Ascheri Pisapola Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is spicy, with greenish accents, some berry fruit, bell peppers, some licorice root, and dusky shade. On the palate it's fairly rich, with moderately intense cherry fruit overshadowed by bitter cedar laced tannins and some mineral acidity; the finish is decidedly tannic with languid berry fruit supported more by minerality than acidity, while the tannins overshadow all. It's frankly unready.


Batasiolo Bofani Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by dusky notes, cedar, some wet leather, alcohol, and some spice. On the palate it's bright, with decidedly tannic fruit supported by aggressive peppery tannins, fruit is cherry, but the peppery spice of the tannins overshadows it all, and it flows into a peppery tannic finish. It's frankly underage, and needs time to come together.
1 star

Bolmida Silvano Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich and fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by some greenish accents, acidity, and spice. On the palate it's fresh, with violet-laced plum cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a splintery burr of youth, and flow into a clean bright finish, while the acidity is pleasant and rather cheeky. Quite pleasant, in a tomboyish key.
2 stars

Bolmida Silvano Vigne dei Fantini Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is funky and penetrating, with smoke and a certain mustiness; as it opens some floral accents emerge however. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity, with smooth, glancing tannins and some violets in the finish. Fairly direct and up front.
1 star

Cascina Ballarin Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and jammy, with some berry fruit and berry fruit jam, plum-prune-grape, also some greenish vegetal accents. On the palate it's quite ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by fairly sweet tannins and minerality more than acidity, though what comes though is the sweetness, and flow s into a fairly long finish. Lots of very ripe fruit, with sweetness derived in part from alcohol, and it's a wine that you will like if you like the style.
2 stars

Cascina Chicco Rocche Castelletto Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is smoky and savory, with some spice but not much fruit; it gives an impression of being in a holding pattern. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish. I'd have liked a little more acidity, but it does have pleasing fruit freshness and richness.
2 stars

Conterno Franco C. Sciulin Bussia Munie Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine -- poured ink -- with almandine rim. The bouquet has cherry fruit supported by cedar and greenish accents, spice, and some smoky notes too. On the palate it's ample and soft, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate slightly milky acidity and by tannins that are smooth and sweet; it's pleasing in a ripe but not overripe international key.
2 stars

Conterno Franco C. Sciulin Pugnane Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by spicy jammy notes; more than one fellow taster finds toffees, and it is sweet in any case, and ripe. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by nice berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather dry, and flow into a clean bright tannic finish. Quite international with pleasant richness of fruit, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Conterno Paolo Riva del Bric Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some smoke, berry fruit, penetrating spice, and some acidity. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by dry tannins that display considerable oak and flow into a tannic finish. Oaky.
1 star

Conterno Paolo Ginestra Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol, tannic accents, ripe berry fruit, some prunes, some spice, and cedar. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry prune fruit that draws up quickly, finishing with tannins that are dry and cut the fruit off, and a fair amount of alcohol; there is some mineral acidity too, but it really just comes up short.
1 star

Costa di Bussia Campo dei Buoi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with plum cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, cedar, and slight graphite shavings. On the palate it's fill and ripe, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rather green fairly long cedar laced finish. It's tending towards a riper style, and is pleasant, but you have to like the style.
2 stars

Fenocchio Giacomo Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and some violet highlights. The bouquet is fresh, in a candied way, with toffees called "caramella mou" in Italian, sweetness, some berry fruit and berry fruit jam, and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's ample, soft, and smooth, with fairly intense cherry plum fruit supported by violets; the tannins are smooth and slightly splintery, and flow into a clean finish with slight graphite shaving bitterness.
2 stars

Giacosa F.lli Vigna Mandorlo Barolo DOCG

Deep black almandine with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish plum accents and some spice; considerable ripeness in a charged key. On the palate it's full, and ripe, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have greenish accents and flow into a fairly long slightly greenish ripe plum cherry finish
2 stars

Giacosa F.lli Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with a great load of cedar and some berry fruit that tries to emerge, but with little success; a fellow taster mutters about old pecorino cheese on the nose, and when he says it I realize he's right. On the palate it's moderately fruity with cherry plum fruit supported by mineral acidity and glancing tannins.
1 star

Grasso Elio Gavarini Chinerea Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is decidedly greenish with considerable lactic acid and spice; it's up in the air and not happy at being there. On the palate it's ample, with ripe berry fruit mingled with plum cherry fruit, and supported by tannins that are cedar laced and splintery, flowing into a dusky finish with greenish tannic accents. It's unready, and the nose in particular isn't working for me at this time.

Grasso Elio Ginestra Casa Matè Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is jammy, with plum-cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and some spice. Casting PC aside it's like a stacked starlet in a glass, voluptuous but also green. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that have some scalded milk to them, and also mint, and are that are splintery (youth, and oak), while there isn't that much in the way of acidity, and it flows into a tannic finish with some plum fruit. I'd have liked somewhat defter acidity, though in its defense it is very, very young.
1 star

Parusso Armando Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections - poured ink. The bouquet is powerful, and quite aromatic, with floral richness that brings Ruché to mind; there's sweetness, rhubarb and licorice root too, and as it opens some underlying tart accents. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by ample smooth tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a clean slightly mineral minty plum finish that's fairly long, and settles into graphite shavings bitterness. It's particular, and not what I think of as Barolo, but does have a certain grace in a very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Parusso Armando Mariondino Barolo DOCG 2007

An IGP Selection
Deep pyrope ink with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal notes and berry fruit -- plum-cherry -- supported by some acidity; it's ripe but has acidity that gives direction, and also some quinine and spice and slight balsamic accents. On the palate it's full, with rich plum cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and mineral acidity, and flows into a clean fairly mineral finish, with some floral notes -- violets -- and that emerge. Pleasant in a powerful very ripe key, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Parusso Armando Le Coste Mosconi Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, and cedar laced, with some rhubarb according to the other tasters, whereas I find cedar and cedar chest. An oaky marvel. On the palate it's ripe, with plum cherry fruit supported by cedary tannins that have greenish accents nicely integrated with fruit. The overall package is quite successful, simply a lot of oak and very ripe fruit. It would however be an anathema for traditional minded.
2 stars

Parusso Armando Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim with hints of purple. The bouquet is fairly rich, with plum fruit supported by cedar and greenish accents -- a lot of oak well balanced by rich ripe fruit. On the palate it's ample, rather tannic, with less fruit than the nose suggested and more dry oaky tannins, which flow into a very tannic splintery oaky finish. It's like licking a barrel slat.
1 star

Poderi Colla Dardi le Rosse Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry ruby with black cherry reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents and spice and underlying some prune fruit. On the palate it's ripe, and rich with fairly intense plum fruit at the outset, though the fruit then flags, giving way to dry tannins that carry into a dry tannic finish. I'd have liked greater richness of fruit to support the tannic accents.
1 star

Prunotto Bussia Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with ripe cherry plum fruit supported by greenish tannic accents, some acidity, and pleasant spice. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by lively plum acidity and by tannins that are smooth and full, and flow into a bright plum cherry finish. Nice depth and elegance, and pleasant in the context of the style, which is fairly modern.
2 stars

Saffirio Josetta Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep black cherry with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar laced tart berry fruit supported by some greenish spice and some smoky accents. On the palate it's ample and soft with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by tannins that are rather dry and flow into a dry tannic finish.
1 star

Saffirio Josetta Persiera Barolo DOCG 2007

Deep pyrope ink with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish jammy accents, leaf tobacco, some spice, and quite a bit of alcohol; the effect is rather haunting. On the palate it's fairly rich, with spicy berry fruit supported by cherry notes and acidity, while the tannins warm and cedar laced. Quite ripe.
1 star

Saffirio Josetta Francesco 1948 Barolo DOCG 2007

Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sweetness mingled with some penetrating acidity and cedar, and also with very ripe plum berry fruit and a lot of oak. On the palate it's ample, with rich plum fruit supported by plum laced tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a plum finish. Pleasant enough in a ripe charged key.
2 stars

Simone Scaletta Chiriet Barolo DOCG 2007

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with floral accents and some red berry fruit supported by some vegetal notes and slight cedar; with respect to many Monforte wines it is considerably less ripe, and more towards berry fruit than plum, though there is some underlying sweetness. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with cherry plum fruit supported by languid tannins and moderate acidity that flow into a warm slightly cedary finish with soft cherry accents.
2 stars

Monday, November 07, 2011

Dolcetto di Diano: Many Good Wines



Dolcetto is Piemonte's traditional every day wine, and rightly so: It's light, fruity, lively, with moderate acidity, and a pleasant bitter almond tannic bite that allows it to go very well with foods. It's also as a rule quite fresh, with pleasant floral and bitter almond accents on the nose that only make it more inviting.

From a commercial standpoint, however, Dolcetto's fortunes have waned in the past 30 years, in part because of decreasing local consumption -- in the past, come fall, areas whose Dolcetto grapes were especially good were mobbed by people buying grapes to make wine at home, but those days are now gone -- and in part because Piemonte's Nebbiolo-based wines, Barolo and Barbaresco especially, have grabbed the international limelight thanks to their complexity and aging capacity.

Complexity, for Dolcetto, is not a problem, quite the contrary (incidentally, despite its name -- Dolce means sweet -- the wine Dolcetto is dry; the name probably derives from the fact that Dolcetto grapes are low in acidity and therefore taste especially sweet when chewed upon). What is, on the international stage, I think, is that it is not a wine for long aging, but is rather best enjoyed within 2-3 years of the harvest, after which time the delightful floral aromas and freshness begin to give way to more tertiary aromas of leaves and underbrush, while the fruit, which doesn't have that much acidity to support it, begins to settle. People find a bottle from Piemonte, whose wines have a reputation for long aging, buy it without noting the vintage, find something past its prime, and decide once burned twice shy.

Therefore, for consumers outside of Piemonte Dolcetto is a potential diamond in the rough, a delightful day-to-day wine awaiting discovery. They simply have to remember to look for the current vintages, which at present would be the 2010 and the 2009; I might also buy a 2008 but would be more cautious with a 2007 and ask to taste a bottle before I bought several.

And Dolcetto di Diano?

The Dolcetto varietal grows well in a broad swath of southern Piemonte, from the hills around Ovada and Acqui, though the Astigiano, and on past Alba to Diano and Dogliani; with respect to Nebbiolo it is more tolerant to altitude, and some of the best Dolcetto comes from vineyards that are higher than those where Nebbiolo is grown.

Diano is one of the two areas near Alba that is especially suited to Dolcetto (the other is Dogliani); it's located south of Alba and west of the Barolo production area, and the town proper sits upon a high ridge formed by a thick sequence of pale interbedded clays and more compact calcareous layers; if you drive up to the town on a sunny day the bedrock, where it crops out, is almost blindingly white. The soils the vines grow on are clayey and calcareous, and the Disciplinare governing production states that the vineyards must be on sunny hillsides; flat ground, damp areas, northern exposures, and altitudes greater than 550 meters above sea level are forbidden. Minimum planting density is 3,500 vines per hectare (about 2.5 acres), and the maximum allowable yield of grapes is 8 metric tons per hectare (this translates into about 5,600 liters of wine); this is, by modern standards, generous, and many winemakers will reduce production to increase complexity and concentration.

In addition to the Vino Base released the spring after the harvest, winemakers can also make Dolcetto di Dogliani Superiore, which must age for at least 10 months prior to release.

There is one element of confusion to Diano: Since it has long been known for Dolcetto, and the name "Dolcetto di Diano" doesn't stand out that much from the various other Docetti made in the area, at some point some of the winemakers in Diano began simply labeling their bottles "Diano D'Alba." The custom is by now well established, and therefore depending upon the winemaker, you will find either Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba or simply Diano D'Alba.

Enough talk. I tasted the wines this spring, in a tasting organized by the folks at Albeisa for journalists attending the Nebbiolo Prima presentation of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. They made for a very different, and very enjoyable change of pace.

Veglio Giovanni Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Lively ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by clean spice and some peppery accents; Fresh. On the palate it's bright and rich, with lively bitter berry fruit supported by violets and some bitter almond accents coupled with clean bright acidity; the tannins are lively and substantial as Dolcetto's are wont to be. A classic Dolcetto that will go quickly.
2 stars

Savigliano Fratelli Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, with violets and some vegetal accents supported by berry fruit and slight acidity. On the palate it's powerful with intense violet-laced plum cherry fruit -- it's a bit riper than some -- supported by dusky tannins that have powerful bitter accents and flow into a decidedly bitter finish mitigated by some berry fruit. Pleasant but more charged, a wine that I would find excessive for daily use, though it will work well with roasts or stews.
2 stars

Veglio Michelino Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Barrel Sample
Ruby with purple highlights. Nice bouquet, with berry fruit that has some sour notes and bitter almonds. Quite fresh. The palate is bright, with rich fruit supported by tannins that have a bitter bite and nice acidity. Promising.

Veglio Michelino Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Pale ruby with violet reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with violets and raspberry cherry fruit supported by deft acidity. Quite graceful. On the palate it's bright, with lively berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and sweet tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a bright slightly mineral berry fruit finish. Graceful, and will go very fast.
88-90

Cantina Salvano Fosco Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Distinctive bottle with string tie and red sealing wax to top the string. Inky violet. The bouquet is powerful and a bit dusky, with berry fruit supported by violets and greenish vegetal accents, some hardwood ash, spice, and slight lactic acid. Gives an impression of extraction. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by slight berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are very smooth and flow into a clean bitter finish. It's an extreme wine with respect to the others, rounder and smoother, and is not what I'd call a day-to-day wine; drink it with drier meats, and you will enjoy it if you like the charged style.
2 stars

Abrigo Fratelli Vigna Pietrin Diano D'Alba Superiore DOCG 2009

Lively violet ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, with violets and red berry fruit supported by some menthol and slight peppery spice. Quite fresh. On the palate it's full and quite round, with fairly powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from greenish almond bitterness and flows into a fairly long warm cherry finish with bitter underpinning. Pleasant, and as one would expect from its being a Superiore, it's not a day-to-day wine, but one that will work nicely with more substantial meat dishes.
2 stars

Alario Claudio Costa Figre Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense in a duskier key, with violets and wet leather mingled with berry fruit and some wood smoke; it's not quite as fresh as some. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit supported by tannins that are fairly smooth, and by moderate acidity. I found it somewhat settled.
1 star

Abrigo Giovanni Sorì dei Crava Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

The wine had just been bottled, and was somewhat shocked, with a muted nose that was not together. On the palate it's full, with moderate fruit supported by savory balsamic accents and spice coupled with warm berry fruit acidity, flowing into a long warm rather balsamic finish. It promises well in a fairly graceful, not explosive key.

Abrigo Giovanni Garabei Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Lively violet with white rim and black reflections. The bouquet is fresh and floral, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by some lactic acidity -- scalded milk -- and by fresh spice; it's graceful but not explosive. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by minerality and delicate spice that flow into a clean slightly spicy finish, while the tannins are very smooth and flow into a slightly bitter finish. A modern delicate, slightly more restrained rendition of Dolcetto.
2 stars

Rigo Secondo Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

A note: I had tasted this at Vinitaly, and because of the time allotted at Diano simply swished it, sniffed, and tasted, and wrote very good after jotting a score of 88-90. The note below is from Vinitaly, where, as you will note, the score was the same.

Lively cherry with violet accents. The bouquet is classic, with rich violets mingled with berry fruit and bitter almonds, and hints of underbrush as well, and some deft spice that keeps things moving right along. On the palate it's quite nice, with rich prune laced fruit shot with violets and graphite bitterness and warmth, and supported by mineral acidity and tannins that have a graphite shaving bitter burr and flow into a clean fresh finish. A classic Dolcetto that will drink very well with simple grilled meats, or light stews, and that will also be a nice cookout wine, working well with both hot and cold foods.
88-90

Azienda Agricola Produttori Dianesi Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Lively ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is fresh, with violets and berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and bright greenish acidity. On the palate it's full and rich, with lively cherry and berry fruit supported by sweet tannins and some almond bitterness. Very approachable, though somewhat lighter than some, and will drink quickly with simple foods, including drier meats. You'll likely want a second bottle.
2 stars

Prandi Giovanni Sörì Colombè Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Lively violet with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit and some scalded milk -- it was bottle shocked, and the palate provides a better indication; it's bright, fairly light, and more acidic than many, with sour cherry raspberry fruit supported by tannins that have a greenish peppery burr and flow into a bright sour cherry and raspberry finish with pleasant bitter almond underpinning. It's a wine to set out and drink, and will go fast, with simple grilled meats, or fired meats and vegetables too.
2 stars

Poderi Sinaglio Sorì Bric Maiolica Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and berry fruit supported by some greenish spice and deft greenish acidity, as well as hints of sweetness. On the palate it's bright, with moderately intense cherry and red berry fruit with some raspberry accents supported by moderate acidity and some sweetness, with underlying tannins whose burr provides definition. It's a little lighter than some, and very easy to drink. Expect it to vanish.
2 stars

Briccomaiolica Sorì Bricco Maiolica Diano D'Alba Superiore DOCG 2009

Deep violet ruby with violet reflections and pale rim. The bouquet is reduced at first sniff, but as it oxygenates reveals red berry fruit and some spice. On the palate it's full, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by warmth and slightly balsamic tannins that flow into a warm berry fruit finish. It's more heavy set than some of the others, and lacks that light deftness that distinguishes some of the other Diani.
1 star

Boffa F.lli Sorì Paradiso Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Violet with violet rim. The bouquet is bright, with violets and berry fruit supported by greenish accents, and still coming together but promising. On the palate it's bright and fresh, with lively cherry fruit supported by red berry fruit sweetness and tannins that have a dusky burr, and by sour berry fruit accents that flow into a warm tart blackberry finish with clean tannic underpinning. It will go quite fast and be quite versatile.
2 stars

Camparo Sorì Bric Camparo Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some lactic accents and berry fruit; it's still coming together. On the palate it's rich and rather sweet, with violets and red berry fruit supported by tannins more than acidity and flows into a warm tannic finish. It's more extracted and sweeter than most, and also more particular, though some berry fruit acidity does emerge in the finish to confer warmth.
1 star

Casavecchia Sorì Bruni Diano D'Alba 2010

Deep violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with violets and some bitter accents mingled with some herbal accents and bitter greenish almond notes. On the palate it's ample and soft, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warmth and tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with some dusky bitter notes. Pleasant and will drink quickly; though there is some vegetal acidity it's not quite as bright as some of the others.
2 stars

Renzo Castella Enotecnico Rivolta Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet ruby with lively cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violet laced sour berry fruit supported by dusky bitter almonds, clean spice, and some vegetal accents with slight underlying sweetness. The palate is bright, with lively cherry and blackberry fruit supported by moderate mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth, with a slight spicy burr, and flow into a clean, fresh, cherry and forest berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with everything from fried foods to quickly grilled meats to the fixings of a cookout.
88-90

Angelo Colla Sorì du Rabin Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet ruby with white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with violets and berry fruit laced with bitter almonds and some elegant greenish accents. Very pleasant to sniff, and as it opens slight candied fruit accents also emerge. On the palate it's full, with rich fairly sweet cherry blackberry fruit supported by mineral acidity and tannins that flow into a fairly bright mineral tannic finish with berry fruit underpinning. It's a bit sweeter than some (though not a sweet wine), and this will make it that much more approachable for those who prefer wines that are not aggressive, while it does have complexities for the "serious" wine drinker too. In short, versatile and for a broad audience.
2 stars

Il Palazzotto Vigna Santa Lucia Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with black reflections and violet rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and slight underbrush; it's still coming together. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with berry fruit supported by some berry fruit acidity, and by warmth and tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a fairly long warm finish. A little less bright than some, and a little more languid.
2 stars

Gerlotto Sorì Vigna Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2010

Deep violet with violet rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with violets and berry fruit laced with blackberry sweetness and some underbrush. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively sour berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity that has some bitter accents, and flows into a clean fresh tannic finish. Quite pleasant, and will be extremely versatile at table.
2 stars

Cascina Sorba G.e.m.m.a. Cascina Sorba Dolcetto di Diano D'Alba DOCG 2009

Violet ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit and some spice mingled with vegetal accents. On the palate it's ample and fairly soft, with fairly bright fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth tannins; by comparison with some of the others the bitter almond accents typical of Dolcetto are less pronounced.
2 stars

Le Cecche Diano D'Alba DOCG

Impenetrable deep violet ink with violet rim. The bouquet is bright, with cherry fruit supported by violets and by some bitter almonds, with greenish vegetal accents as well. On the palate it's fresh, with bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins and dusky bitterness with pleasing savory notes too. Pleasant and quite approachable thanks also to richness of fruit; it will work very well with foods and go quite fast.
2 stars

Tuesday, October 25, 2011

The 2008 Barbaresco, Tasted by the IGP Team in Fall 2011


This spring the IGP Group -- Carlo Macchi, Luciano Pignataro, Stefano Tesi, Roberto Giuliani and I (youll find links to their sites on the side bar) -- asked Marinella Minetti, who runs Wellcom, an astonishingly competent PR firm in Alba, to gather samples of the current vintages of Barbaresco (the 2008 vintage) and Barolo (the 2007) for us to taste. She did, and this October we drove up and tasted them over the space of several days, in the company of Pasquale Porcelli, who tastes with Carlo for Winesurf. It was a spectacular week, with the only wrinkle being that Roberto came down with the Flu and was unable to come.

At the end of each tasting session -- they were blind, and held in the mornings -- we talked together and selected the wines that we all found noteworthy, posting them as IGP selections on our sites. What we do with our tasting notes is up to each of us, and I am posting them here, indicating which wines were IGP selections, and scoring all of the wines as I normally do. You will note that some I scored highly didn't make the cut, but this is what happens when a panel tastes -- everyone has to be impressed by a wine or it doesn't make it.

Before getting to the wines, a word on the wine and the vintage. Barbaresco is one of the great Piemontese red wines, and is produced from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the communes of Neive, Barbaresco and Treiso (and, to a tiny degree, Alba), all of which are located on the right bank of the Tanaro river downstream from Alba. The 2008 vintage is not of as uniform quality as some other recent vintages have been. Though there were some exceptions, I found that in general the wines from the Communes of Barbaresco and Treiso showed significantly better than those from Neive, with nice fruit and bracing acidity in a variety of styles; as always, you'll have to match the wines to your tastes but there are many fine bottles to be had. Neive's wine is instead more uneven.

The Wines, tasted October 17 2011

Bersano Mantico Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with garnet reflections. The bouquet has fresh berry fruit mingled with cherries, some iodine, and roses, supported by raspberry acidity, some graphite shavings and brambles. Nice balance. On the palate it's bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and brambly tannins with a warm burr. Nice depth, and bright with considerable finesse; it will become elegant in an ethereal key and be long lived.
2 stars

Battaglia Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is vinous, with cedar, some sweetness, chocolate, and camphor but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, with moderate bitter fruit, some greenish cedar, moderate acidity, tannins that are cedar laced and somewhat lumbering, and a bitter chocolate-laced finish.
2 stars

Batasiolo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Lively garnet ruby with brilliant reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some cedar, slight vinous notes, hints of mint and bramble, and some alcohol, which increase in intensity as it opens. Not much fruit. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright berry fruit supported by acidity, slight greenish accents, and bitter splintery tannins that flow into a long splintery finish with bitter accents and sour berry fruit. Needs time for the nose to develop and the tannins to smooth.
2 stars

Bonfante Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby, darker than others. The nose has berry fruit, some sea salt, slight balsam, slight leaf tobacco, alcohol, moderate spice, and some truffles; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's bright, with sour cherry fruit and bitter accents, there's a considerable burr to the tannins, which flow into a long dry splintery tannic finish with graphite shaving bitterness and greenish accents. I found it a little tired, though this is also its being very young and disjointed. It needs at least a year to begin to come together.
1 star

Borgogno F.ll S & Bouquet Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with moderate berry fruit, some spice, slight alcohol, some rosa canina, some balsamic notes, and slight tar with hints of leaf tobacco. On the palate it's ample, fairly soft, fairly rich, with moderate fruit and a bitter underpinning.
1 star

Cantina del Nebbiolo di Vezza D'Alba Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Pale almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, cool, and somewhat musty, with alcohol, spice, greenish accents, sea salt, bitterness, and some cedary bramble. On the palate it's moderately intense with sour berry fruit, some metallic notes, hot iron, and moderate acidity; the tannins are fairly bright, with a burr, while the finish has berry fruit and hot iron.
1 star

Ceste Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings some fruit, cherries, rosa canina, slight camphor, leaf tobacco, slight cedar, and spice; it's quite young. On the palate it's pleasant, with bright berry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have graphite shaving bitterness and a cedary underpinning, and flow into a clean rather bitter finish with a graphite shaving burr. Pleasant in modern key, needs time.
2 stars

Enrico Serafino Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, with some berry fruit supported by acidity, cherry fruit, and brambles. I found it somewhat non-descript. On the palate it's bright, moderately intense, with cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are moderately intense and have a slight burr, flowing into a fairly long bitter finish. It's pleasant, but doesn't really enthuse me.
1 star

Gianolio Tommaso Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Pale cherry ruby with almandine reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with white truffles, minerality, some jammy fruit, iodine, and mustiness that brings to mind wet paper. On the palate it's ample, and rather lax, with fairly bright sour cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving laced bitter acidity and by tannins ample and smooth, savory, and flow into a savory finish. It could be tighter.
1 star

Rivetto Cè Vanin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is dusky, with cedar, pungency, some alcohol, moderate berry fruit that ahs some leaf tobacco accents, and spice. On the palate it's moderately intense, with moderate sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents, minerality, and splintery greenish tannins with an underlying bitterness that flow into a greenish finish. Needs time, but will always have a rather greenish thin feel, I think.
1 star

San Silvestro Cantine Magno Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry with almandine reflections, almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and green, with graphite shaving and bitterness, alcohol, savory notes, and some spice but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with sweetish berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and dry tannins, spice, slight earthiness, and a long bitter finish. Graphite in a glass.
1 star

Sordo Giovanni Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with ruby reflections, almandine rim. The nose is rustic, with balsam, stable straw, lathered horse, greenish notes, stable muck. On the palate it's moderately full, with bright, sour cherry fruit with bitter tannins; the finish reflects nose with bitter animal accents. Far into rustic, and a wine you should only consider if you like style.
1 star

Terre da Vino La Casa in Collina Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some jammy notes, berry fruit, fig Newton, spice, and slight tar. On the palate it's fairly light, with sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and dusky tannins that flow into a clean sour finish. Pleasant in a lighter key, will be ethereal with time.
2 stars

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Sanadaive Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections, cherry rim. The bouquet is closed, with some wet paper, slight graphite some savory bitterness. Needs time. On the palate it's savory with moderately intense berry fruit, sour berry fruit acidity, and splintery tannins that flow into a bitter finish.
1 star

Manera F.lli Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is oaky, with considerable cedar, some bitterness, chocolate, cocoa, and some berry fruit. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly bright cherry fruit supported by cocoay tannins. Nice in an international key; a fellow taster says it's the "Banfization of Barbaresco."
2 stars

Piazzo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Muted bouquet, with some berry fruit and bitter accents, and as one swishes some greenish accents, minerality, and alcohol, but not much fruit. On the palate it's nondescript, with moderate fruit, supported by mineral acidity and smooth tannins that do have a slight splintery burr, and flow into a bitter finish. I found it lacking in brightness of fruit and richness, and a bit dry.
1 star

Piazzo Fratin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The nose is musty; a fellow taster finds anchovies, while I find some balsam, some warmth, and slight stable straw. On the palate it's moderately intense, with bitterness and some berry fruit supported by fairly bitter tannins that flow into a graphite shaving laced bitter finish. I found it lacking fruit.
1 star

Prunotto Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Black almandine with ruby reflections, almandine rim. The bouquet opens with cedar, dusky accents, spice, dried orange peel and savory notes; there's also alcohol, and it's slightly pungent. On the palate it's ample, softer than expected, and fairly bright with sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and tannins that are quite dry, flowing into a sour slightly mineral finish with acidity and some quinine bitterness. There's a disconnect between nose and palate; it needs a year or two to decided what it's doing. Fairly direct in any case, but could go places.
2 stars

Abrigo Orlando Meruzzano Vigna Rongallo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, cherry rim to almandine. The bouquet is oaky, with cedar and spice overshadowing fruit, but nicely done in international key. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity, plums, and tannins that have chocolaty accents and flow into a smooth chocolate and cold coffee finish. Very international, and a wine you should consider if you like the style.
2 stars

Abrigo Orlando Montersino Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is dusky, with cedar, sea salt, greenish accents, spice, and slightly bitter savory notes but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and rather dusky, with moderate fruit supported by cedar bitterness and cocoa, flows into a cocoa laced rather bitter finish. Not bright, and the fruit lacks verve.
1 star

Abrigo Orlando Rocche Meruzzano Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections, cherry rim. The bouquet opens with cedar, some spice, and moderate fruit, as it opens becomes berry fruit, while there are also graphite shaving bitterness, some spice, and licorice root. On the palate it's moderately intense, with minerality and sea salt supported by bitter tannins, graphite shavings and some underbrush with licorice root accents. A very mineral interpretation of Barbaresco, and a wine to consider if you like the style. It grew on me.
2 stars

Grasso F.lli Vallegrande Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly intense cedar, spice, some licorice root, bitter accents, and slight pungency, but not much fruit. On the palate it's full, with bright, rich cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and savory accents while the tannins are warm splintery, displaying nice depth, and flow into a long bright tannic finish. The nose is behind the palate, but there is nice potential, and it will reward those who give it time.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Molino Ausario Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with balsamic notes, slight wet cardboard, spice, some large wood, dried orange peel, some bitterness, and dusky accents. On the palate it's ample, with moderate fruit cherry with some jammy plum accents, supported by moderate plum acidity and by smooth tannins that do have a slight greenish burr, and flow into a plum finish with hints of sweetness and lasting warmth.
2 stars

Azienda Agricola Molino Teorema Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is closed; swishing brings up some graphite shavings and slight bitterness, but nothing else. On the palate it's brighter, with cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice, savory notes, and sweet tannins; the palate is more interesting than nose and I'd give the nose a while to get its act together. It's too young to say much about.

Pelissero Giorgio Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and cherry fruit supported by savory notes, some bitterness, sea salt, and greenish leaf tobacco accents. On the palate it's ample and soft with more bitter minerality than fruit; a fellow taster mutters about coconut, which I do find in the finish. Lacks fruit and richness.
1 star

Pio Cesare Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry fruit and some rosa canina, chocolate, slight cedar; as it opens rich, and rather swanky berry fruit emerges with some savory notes. Quite modern in style. On the palate it's pleasant, with rich cherry fruit supported by sour raspberry fruit acidity and smooth savory tannins with pleasant mineral accents that do have a youthful burr, and flow into a clean savory finish. Pleasant in international key, and you'll like it if you like the style.
2 stars

Pio Cesare Il Bricco Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with a lot of wood; it opens with cedar and dusky accents followed by spice, bitterness, menthol, and graphite shavings. Again, oak. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate berry fruit supported by well-polished tannins and savory mineral acidity that flow into a clean savory finish with dry tannic underpinning. A lot of oak, that the fruit does (barely) digest; it's quite international in style and more extreme than may international wines now are.
2 stars

Rizzi Pajoré Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Pale almandine with black reflections almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet has iodine, bitterness, and rosa canina, displaying nice depth in a rather essential key, and promises ethereality. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright berry fruit supported by minerality, some sour berry fruit acidity, and iodine, while the tannins are fairly smooth and savory, with a flight burr, and flow into a long mineral finish. It's fairly traditional, and a wine to seek out if you like the style, which is austere, privileging finesse over power. It will be long lived.
2 stars

Rizzi Nervo Fondetta Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Lively cherry ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is opens with bitterness, some cedar, leaf tobacco, bitter cocoa, and minerality, but not much fruit. On the palate it's bright with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bitter tannins sea salt, and bright berry fruit acidity. Pleasant in a powerful fairly traditional key, with an abundance of fruit and acidity that is still working at coming together. Expect it to go places.
2 stars

Antichi Poderi dei Gallina Gallina I'Ciaciaret Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Pyrope with almandine rim. The bouquet is quite ripe, with prunes, plums, spice, and gum Arabic. On the palate it's ample and fairly bright, with sour plum fruit laced with greenish accents and supported by moderate acidity and dry tannins with a greenish underpinning and some savory notes.
1 star

Azienda Agricola Elia Na Giurnà Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet pungent, with greenish accents, spice, slight shellac, and some gum Arabic. On the palate it's better, but not great, with berry fruit supported by sour accents and spice, while the tannins are bitter, and the finish rather green and rather savory.
1 star

Fontanabianca Bordini Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leaf tobacco, hints of shellac, bitterness, dry leaves, savory accents, and a fair amount of alcohol, Not much fruit. On the palate it's fresh and bright, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by leafy minerality that brings an oak forest to mind, and rather light tannins with youthful splinteriness. Pleasant finish with warm sour cherry acidity and mineral accents. Will be ethereal.
2 stars

Fontanabianca Serra Boella Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is savory, with slight bitterness, green leather, leaf tobacco, and some spice, but not much fruit. On the palate I found it to be nondescript; there is moderate fruit, supported by savory notes, moderate mineral acidity, some spice, and fairly smooth full tannins that flow into a bitter finish. I'd have liked greater richness to the fruit.
1 star

Francone Vigneti I Patriarchi Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pale almandine ruby brilliant reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is funky, with wet horse, bitter accents, balsam, stable straw, and some fairly sweet berry fruit; it's unsettled and going in several directions. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively balsam laced cherry fruit supported by greenish accents; the tannins are bitter and slightly balsamic, and flow into balsam laced finish. Traditional in style, and the palate grew upon me.
2 stars

Lequio Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections, almandine rim. The bouquet is oak in a glass, with cedar, minerality, some candied accents, and spice; very international. On the palate it's fairly bright, sour cherry fruit supported by bitter tannins that have a cedar underpinning and flow into a slightly green cedary finish. The palate is better than the nose, but very international, and you should only consider it if you like this style.
2 stars

Marchesi di Barolo Serragrilli Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with berry fruit, some truffles, jammy accents, some spice, and plum fruit; it's fairly charged in a ripe key, and as it opens further greenish mineral accents and some leaf tobacco also emerge. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with ripe sour berry fruit supported by bight berry fruit acidity; the tannins are smooth with a slight burr, and flow into a warm sour finish with leaf tobacco underpinning and lasting warmth. Very young and needs time.
2 stars

Musso Pora Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is greenish, with some licorice root and rhubarb, slightly spiky minerality, wood smoke, and as it opens some stable straw. On the palate it's ample with fairly rich fruit, and fairly soft, with moderate citric mineral acidity and tannins that are fairly smooth, with a slight burr. I'd have liked more depth.
2 stars

Negro Angelo Cascinotta Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Lively ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is powerful and unusual, a sweaty redhead on a hot day, animal, with some dried orange peel spice. Particular and takes no quarter. The palate reflects nose, with bright sour berry fruit supported by savory accents and smooth tannins that flow into a savory finish with greenish accents and, again, that redhead. The aromas are still in youth, and she may fade with time, but it is a wine in a style you have to like.
2 stars

Negro Giuseppe Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pyrope with black reflections and almandine rim paling to orange. The bouquet is cooked, with jammy accents, prunes, and some savory spice, but mostly cooked. On the palate it's ample and soft, with jammy cherry plum fruit supported by warmth and some greenish accents, and by tannins that are rather dry and slightly greenish.
1 star

Negro Giuseppe PianCavallo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with acidity, greenish notes, pungency, leather, some minerality, leaf tobacco, some cedar, and not much fruit. On the palate it's softer than expected, with moderate fruit supported by considerable minerality and cedar-laced tannins with a splintery burr, flowing into hazelnut skins in finish, which is splintery and mineral with some cedar. Lacking in richness of fruit.
1 star

Oddero Poderi e Cantine Gallina Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is a bit rustic, with berry fruit and greenish accents, floral notes, menthol, cedar, balsamic accents, and some wet leaves. Savory notes too as it opens. On the palate it's bright, peppery even, and more mineral than fruit driven, with considerable bitter savory notes, peppery tannins, some mineral acidity, which flow into a rather bitter mineral finish with iodine and India ink bitterness. It's a bit garrulous.
1 star

Pelissero Pasquale Bricco San Giuliano Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is moderately intense, with green leather, brambles and some leaf tobacco, but not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and savory with moderate fruit and savory tannins supported by sour berry fruit acidity with some greenish accents, which flows into a slightly splintery finish.
1 star

Punset Campoquadro Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Black almandine with black reflections. The nose is a bit rustic, with moderate fruit supported by sweat, green leather, greenish vegetal accents, cooked chicory, and some mineral accents with slight hints of petroleum. On the palate it's brighter, with sour berry fruit supported by savory notes that do reveal some sweaty accents, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they do reveal some splintery youth in the finish.
1 star

Ressia Canova Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is somewhat cooked, with sugary jammy berry fruit supported by greenish accents, spice and some melon rind. The palate is moderately intense, with sour cherry fruit supported by acidity, some savory notes, and tannins that are deft and rather savory, flowing into a savory finish. It's in mid stride and needs time, though it is rising.
2 stars

Rivetti Dante Bricc'Micca Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with brambly berry fruit with some acidity, alcohol, some greenish notes, spice, and moderate fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a cedary underpinning, flowing into a clean tannic finish with cedar underlying the wine. More brightness and perk would have been nice.
1 star

Scarpa Antica Casa Vinicola Tettineve Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rustic, and animal, with some balsamic accents, wet stable straw, some minerality, slight graphite, acidity, and alcohol. Nice balance in a quite traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with fairly lively mineral berry fruit supported by minerality and splintery tannins that have slight greenish accents, and flow into a mineral finish with tannic accents and some leaf tobacco. If you like the style, which is traditional, you will enjoy it, and can also expect it to age nicely too.
2 stars

Torregiorgi Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with leaf tobacco and minerality, some spice, some greenish accents, slight pungency, and slight goudron; there's nice depth in an ethereal key. On the palate it's ample and bitter, with minerality and leaf tobacco supporting wet leaves and mineral acidity, while the tannins are fairly smooth though they do display a youthful splinteryness. Pleasant though not fruity, revolves more around minerality.
2 stars

Socrè Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is oaky, with spice and cedar supported by greenish accents, leaf tobacco, and some greenish accents. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by tannins that are savory and cedar laced, flow into a clean cedar laced finish with fruity underpinning. The palate is better than the nose, with pleasant fruit, and needs a year or two to come together; if the nose follows it it will be pleasant in a modern key.
2 stars

Adriano Marco e Vittorio Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep cherry ruby. Closed nose, with swishing reveals some spice and a little cedar, and slight wood smoke, but not much fruit. The palate is decidedly mineral, with minerality overshadowing fruit, much to the delight of a fellow taster (I found that it brings to mind certain Lagreins). If you like the style you will enjoy it.
2 stars

Boffa Carlo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections. Intense nose, with iodine and dried porcini, considerable graphite shavings, some bitterness, and road tar on a cool day. On the palate it's ample, with considerable bitterness, moderate fruit, and rather dry tannins that flow into a greenish wet leaf finish; there's something of an oak forest to it.
1 star

Boffa Carlo Pajé Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar and graphite shavings, some bitterness, and more minerality than fruit. On the palate it's fairly rich, in a bitter key, with sour berry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness and sea salt that flow into a fairly long leaf tobacco laced finish with some bitter accents. At present it's almost a work in progress; it needs time to come together, and when it does will be quite pleasant in a fairly traditional key
2 stars

Boffa Varlo Ovello Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry with black reflections, pyrope in rim. The bouquet is dusky, and rather pungent, with some animal aromas, slight cow flop, spice. On the palate it's a bit brighter, with sour cherry fruit supported by berry fruit and savory accents and some bitterness, and considerable minerality, which I might have liked more fruit to balance. The tannins are dry and flow into a dry tannic finish. It's still coming together, and very much in mid-stride; the score reflects this.
2 star

Cascina delle Rose Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections, some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and smoky, with some spice On the palate it's fairly rich, with cherry fruit supported by graphite shaving bitterness, and spicy rather bitter tannins, and flows into a bitter finish. A very mineral wine, and though I was telling myself it wasn't impressive I found myself giving it a good score. Go Figure.
2 stars

Cascina delle Rose Tre Stelle Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit and some alcohol supported by some alcohol and some oak; there's not much definition. On the palate it's ample, with brighter than expected berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and splintery tannins.
1 star

Ceretto Bricco Asili Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite oaky, with greenish accents and leaf tobacco, considerable cedar, and some spice; it smells like a wet barrel slat. On the palate it's brighter than the nose suggests, with lively greenish berry fruit supported by sour greenish acidity and by tannins that are greenish and cedar laced, flowing into a decidedly tannic finish. If you like oaky wines you will enjoy it, and it also has good aging potential.
2 stars

Ceretto Bricco Asili Bernardot Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black red and cherry rim. The bouquet is a bit funky, with wet cardboard, spice, greenish accents, some brambly acidity, and not much fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, splice, tannins that are smooth and warm finish warm, with some sour cherry. The nose needs time to come together and develop, reaching the palate, which is more interesting. A potential flower for the future
2 stars

Ceretto Asij Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim The bouquet is greenish, with spice, savory notes, and acidity, and as it opens some pungent berry fruit and tartness. On the palate it's moderately intense, with bitterness and moderate acidity supported by minerality and tannins flowing into a long dry, bitter tannic finish.
1 star

Cortese Giuseppe Rabajà Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Almandine with ruby reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rosa cainina, berry fruit, spice, herbal accents, slight cedar; it's quite deft and eminently inviting. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, tannins that are smooth but display a slight greenish burr, and flow into a warm long berry fruit finish with a sour slightly tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and has a great deal to say.
2 stars

Giacosa F.lli Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, opening with violets, some spice, and menthol; it displays nice depth and elegance and is pleasing. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by plum sweetness -- it's somewhat riper than some of the wines -- with smooth sweet tannins supported by minerality and graphite shaving bitterness, and flowing into a clean rather bitter finish .Nice depth and elegance.
2 stars

Giacosa F.lli Basarin Gian Maté Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pyrope with black reflections. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some berry fruit, considerable alcohol, some acidity, and brambly notes. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by quite a bit of alcohol and moderate acidity. A bit thin, and alcohol carries the show.
1 star

Marchesi di Gresy Martinenga Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense and elegant, with vegetal notes, greenish accents, brambles, and some spice, elegance that also emerges on the palate, with deft berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins. It's graceful, revolving more around elegance than finesse, and will become ethereal with time. Casting PC aside, it captures and distracts, rather like a pretty girl who causes heads to turn by just walking down the street.
88-90

Moccagatta Bric Balin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by some cedar and slight leathery accents . A bit rustic but pleasant. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit, brisk green leather acidity with some leaf tobacco, a fair amount of alcohol, tannins that are smooth but greenish in youth and flow into a long clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant.
2 stars

Moccagatta Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections cherry rim. The bouquet is ripe and fairly international in style, with pleasant spice, cherry plum fruit with sweetish accents, and some cedar. On the palate it's quite ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by alcohol, fairly brisk acidity, and smooth sweet tannins. Quite a bit going on, with nice depth and elegance.
2 stars

Moccagatta Cole Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with graphite shaving, some bitterness, iodine, spice, and slight fruit. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with moderate fruit supported by peppery spice, cedar laced tannins, and some sour cherry acidity that flows into a fairly long finish
2 stars

Moccagatta Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby. The bouquet is moderately intense, with spice, some cedar, slight graphite shavings, slight fruit, and some greenish accents. Lacks complexity. On the palate it's ample and nondescript, with cherry plum fruit supported by moderately intense slightly bitter mineral acidity that flows into more of the same in the finish
1 star

Montaribaldi Sorì Montaribaldi Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine finish. The bouquet is pleasant in a fairly rustic key, with balsamic accents, wet stable straw, some greenish accents, balsamic notes, some berry fruit and sour berry fruit acidity, and balsamic acidity. On the palate it's pleasant in a traditional key, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by balsamic acidity and peppery tannins that flow into a clean decidedly tannic finish with peppery accents. If you like the style you will enjoy it, and it will age nicely too.
2 stars

Montaribaldi Palazzina Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cherry plum fruit supported by some sweetness, jammy accents, some greenish brambly notes. On the palate it's bright, and ripe, cherry plum fruit supported by peppery tannins that have some greenish accents, and flow into a decidedly peppery finish with quite a bit of alcohol. Needs time, and is fairly aggressive; you will like it if you like the style, which does have oaky accents, but give it time.
2 stars

Musso Rio Sordo Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by licorice root, some cedar, greenish accents, leaf tobacco, bramble and some gum Arabic, also warmth and alcohol. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a slight splinter, and flow into a long warm sour cherry finish with splintery tannic underpinning., Pleasant in a middle of the road key
2 stars

Poderi Colla Roncaglie Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections. almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish accents, savory notes, sea salt, bramble, sunny accents, and sour berry fruit On the palate it's fairly bright, and savory, with moderate berry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and greenish accents, while the finish is long and tannic. It is frankly behind at present, but with time will do interesting things. In short, a promise for the future.
2 stars

Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is cedar laced with some greenish accents, spice, and slight berry fruit. On the palate it's fairly bright, with nice sour cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and greenish tannins that flow into a clean rather vegetal finish. Nice depth and pleasant though very young. Needs time
2 stars

Punset Basarin Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, and greenish with leaf tobacco and green leather, some salty tomato sauce, slight animal accents, wet stable straw, balsamic accents, and peppery spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by deft slightly balsamic berry fruit acidity and tannins that have warm balsamic accents, and flow into a clean bright rather balsamic finish, It does have some rustic accents, and is a wine you will like if you like the style.
2 stars

Rattalino Massimo Quarantadue Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, and mineral with some cooked fruit accents and spice. Greenish. On the palate it's ample and fairly direct, moderately rich, with savory berry fruit and spice.
1 star

Rattalino Massimo Quarantatrè Barbaresco DOCG 2008

Deep almandine with black reflections. The, bouquet is moderately intense, with greenish accents, spice, leather, and spice, but not much fruit. On the palate it's rather ripe, with bright berry fruit supported by ripe plum accents and spice; the tannins are quite dry, greenish, and flow into a dry tannic finish.
1 star

Taliano Michele Ad Altiora Barbaresco DOCG 2008

An IGP Selection
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with bright berry fruit with jammy plum prune accents and some spice; it's pleasant in rich ripe key. On the palate it's ample, ripe and rich with powerful ripe fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins with slight berry fruit accents, tannins are a bit rich, and flow into a clean bright slightly splintery finish. Quite ripe, and you'll much enjoy it if you like the style.
2 stars