Tasted at Vinitaly: Michele Castellani

There are many ways to meet people at Vinitaly. One is to run into someone you know, and be introduced to who he is talking with, and that's what happened here: I had just left a stand when I met up with Lorenzo Begali, who was talking with a gentleman he introduced as Michele Castellani, and suggested I taste the wines. I had another appointment, and when I got back he was gone, so his daughter poured.

 It was the last day and I was too rushed to converse, but they are located in Marano della Valpolicella, where they have 40 hectares of vineyards planted to the three classic varietals of the Valpolicella, Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara.

Castellani Campo del Biotto  Calpolicella Classioc 2011
Lot 12/53
Lively cherry ruby with violet reflections and cherry rum. The bouquet is fresh, with a slight pungency that is due to recent bottling and will fade, while there is also berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and slight sandalwood. Fresh. On the palate it's ample and fresh, with moderately intense berry fruit supported by warm smooth light tannins and moderate acidity that has a slight greenish overlay and flows into a warm slightly peppery finish with slight tannic underpinning. Pleasant, in a slightly softer key, and this is attributable to the heat in August and September. It will drink quite well with foods, supporting rather than taking center stage, and you may need a second bottle.
2 stars

Castellani Valpolicella Classico Superore Ripasso 2010
 Lot 12/16
This ages in large wood for about 18 months. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is quite young, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by mentholated accents and some balsamic notes, and also sea salt and some deft jammy notes. Pleasant, and still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with lively fresh wild cherry fruit supported by tannins that have a slight flinty bitterness, and by deft sour berry fruit acidity that flows into a clean berry plum finish supported by lasting acidity. Pleasant, and very fresh; it needs another year for the nose to come together, and will be quite versatile, working well with a wide variety of red meats and also roasts; I might be tempted to serve it with stuffed turkey too.
2 stars

Castellani Campo Casalin Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2008
Lot 12/41
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with considerable cedar that at present blankets the fruit, which manages to peek out from underneath its coating, revealing some red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, with rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit supported by moderate peppery acidity and tannins that are very smooth and flow into a fairly long cedar laced finish. It's quite international in style, and well made in this style though very young, and needs at least a couple of years to digest the oak. I wouldn't think of opening it before 2016. If you like the international style you will enjoy it, but do be patient.
2 stars (barely)

Castellani Cinque Stelle Amarone Della Valpolicella Classico 2008
Lot 12/41
This is from vineyards at higher elevations, and is aged in a mix of large and small wood. It's deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by cedar that is quite apparent but not completely predominant, and by sandalwood and some underlying vegetal notes. On the palate it's ample, with powerful spicy cherry fruit laced with sandalwood and supported by some sweetness, and by tannins that have a dusky cedar laced burr, and flow into a fairly long dusky finish with berry fruit and some sweetness, and underlying savory cocoa accents, and sandalwood laced sweetness as the other things fade. It's more approachable that the Campo Casalin, and also more graceful, a powerful wine in a fairly international key that has the fruit and intensity necessary to stand up to the wood, and will with time be quite pleasant. If you are not an absolute traditionalist you will enjoy it.
88-90

Castellani Monte Fasenara Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2008
Lot 11/328
Deep pyrope with pyrope rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense and fairly sweet, with prune cherry fruit supported by some cedar and fairly bright spice, and also some greenish vegetal notes. On the palate it's full, sweet, and quite smooth, with elegant prune cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and slight bitter accents, and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long soft finish with some underlying bitter accents. It's fairly modern in style, and very smooth, with relatively less acidity than some, and is as a result a little simpler; I would sip it far from the table with friends.
1 star

Enjoyable in a middle-of-the-road to modern key, and if you would like more information, check their site.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

You may or may not have heard about the earthquakes that shook the Pianura Padana this winter, but I was in Tedeschi's offices talking with Sabrina when the floor began to ripple, and we sat quietly watching the floor lamps sway for a few seconds. It's not something I'm used to. Fortunately that was it, and when we finished talking I headed into Verona for the Amarone Anteprima.

They, like the others in the Famiglie dell'Amarone, chose not to participate, also because their wines were not yet in bottle, and I therefore was quite happy to stop at their stand at Vinitaly and taste everything.

Tedeschi Capitel Tenda Soave Classico 2011

Lot L2
Brassy greenish gold with brassy reflections and greenish highlights, paling to white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense with a great deal of gunflint supported by minerality and spice, and by clean greenish accents. On the palate it's ample and quite mineral, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by gunflint and a certain stoniness that brings struck granite to mind, and flow s into a fairly long slightly bitter gunflint laced finish with underlying lemony grapefruit acidity. It's fairly direct, and will drink well with foods.
1 star

Tedeschi Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 162
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with deft slightly greenish berry fruit -- cherry mostly, though there is also some raspberry, and supported by bright greenish vegetal acidity that has that classic Valpolicella tang to it, and pleasing fresh floral accents as well. Extremely inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by raspberry acidity and by tannins that have a slight dusky greenish burr, and flow into a long greenish sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, and will go very fast with foods, ranging from fried meats and vegetables through quickly grilled meats. A perfect cookout wine too, one that one could drink by the bucket.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2010

Lot 161
The label says, "Appassimento," which means drying -- the grapes are allowed to dry some before pressing. The wine is deep black garnet ruby with black reflections and some almandine in the rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by some sweetish accents and pleasant greenish vegetal notes mingled with wood smoke and peppery accents, and some sea salt and cedar. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite smooth, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate minerality and slight dusky accents more than acidity, and by tannins that are ample and smooth with some dusky accents that flow into a clean rather dusky savory finish. It's not as bright as it has been in some other vintages, but displays pleasing depth; it's quite approachable and will drink nicely with grilled meats and light stews.
2 stars

Tedeschi Corasco Rosso delle Venezie IGT 2009

Lot not apparent
This is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco (75%, 5% and 20%), traditional varietals of the Veneto, and is deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with greenish vegetal laced prune fruit supported by spice and sandalwood with greenish accents as well. Pleasant complexity and very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful slightly smoky prune fruit supported by deft prune and berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long savory prune finish. It's more direct than the Valpolicella wines, and also eminently approachable, a wine that one can drink without thinking overmuch and will be perfect with roasts or stews. The imprint of the Corvina is quite apparent, and it leads the way, though the other two contribute nicely. The Italian word would be ruffiano, which is ingratiating, and that it is.
2 stars

Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2009

Lot 553
Deep black cherry almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with berry fruit supported by sandalwood and pleasant greenish spice with underlying sea salt and hints of nutmeg and brown sugar, it's quite harmonious and very enjoyable to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively prune cherry fruit supported by bright mineral acidity and by tannins that are smooth and rather glancing, with licorice root accents, and flow into a clean bright finish with sour prune accents and deft tannic support and warmth that continue at length. Quite pleasant, with considerable complexity and will work very well with grilled meats or roasts, and also with substantial strew, and is also quite young; it will drink nicely now but will reward you if you decide to give it a few years.
88-90

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2008

Lot 141
Deep black almandine with black reflections and brownish almandine rim. The bouquet is intense and rather exotic, with sandalwood spice mingled with smoke and slight nose tingling acidity, and with warm sour notes that bring grilled peppers to mind though are not quite that. Harmonious, and quite interesting to sniff. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful prune cherry fruit supported by bright prune acidity and by tannins that are quite smooth, with a slight dusky burr, and flow into a sandalwood laced prune finish that lasts and lasts, gradually revealing peppery accents as the fruit fades. Very pleasant, and is a wine that will drink very well wit roasts or stews; one could press it into service today, but it will reward those who have the patience to give it 3-5 years. It's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting.
90-91

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Lot 354
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is quite young, with prune fruit supported by sandalwood and sour berry fruit acidity with underlying greenish notes and alcohol, and also a fair amount of licorice root. On the palate it's ample and rich, with bright cherry plum fruit supported by warm berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a slight greenish burr and carry at length into a fairly long bright finish. It is drinkable, but will reward those who are willing to give it time. I would think about opening it in 1018 or so. Expect it to age well for at least 10 years thereafter.
88-90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sample
Lot 1t2
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is powerful, and quite young, with berry fruit supported by licorice root and greenish accents that are supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. It's woefully young and really didn't deserve to be opened for tasting yet. On the palate it's ample and powerful, with rich savory sour cherry fruit supported by warmth and peppery spice, while the tannins are ample with a bright peppery cast, and the real question that comes to mind is why anyone would want to open this wine in this decade. It's like a toddler, good natured but still a toddler, and it needs at least 5-7 years to get its bearings and begin to be drinkable. One could now if one had no other choice, but it is a pity. Expect it to age well for 15 years at least. The score reflects the present.
90


Tedeschi La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

Prerelease sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and pigeon blood ruby rim. The bouquet is elegant, with prune fr supported by sandalwood and spice with underlying sweetish accents and warmth, and deft spice and slight acidity. Quite young, but already pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample, and moderately sweet, with cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and by moderate rather mineral acidity; it's quite harmonious, and though the tannins dry the finish -- an effect of its considerable youth -- is already pleasant enough. It will be much nicer in the future, but if you felt you had to you could drink it now. I wouldn't, and would hold onto it for at least 5 years before I even thought about opening it. Because the potential is there.
90-91

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Recioto Della Valpolicella Classico 2006

Lot L2
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim with some almandine reflections in the nail. The bouquet is fairly intense, with prune fruit supported by prune acidity and brown sugar sweetness with some pleasant slightly greenish sandalwood accents. Quite pleasant to sniff in a ripe sweet key, and as it opens some licorice root also emerges. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by fairly bright prune acidity and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a lasting slightly tannic fruit finish. Quite pleasant in a fairly voluptuous key, and will drink very well with cheeses, especially more piquant cheese and softer well herbed cheeses, or far form the table.
88-90

Tasted at Vinitaly: Lorenzo Begali

Lorenzo Begali is an old friend of Elisabetta Fagiuoli's, and I was fortunate enough to meet him and his family many years ago when he invited Elisabetta and Sergio to dinner the last night of Vinitaly, and I tagged along. It was a memorable meal, and at the end of it I found myself jotting down recipes, which you will find listed here.

I have since made a point of keeping an eye out for his wines, and am quite glad that I stopped at his stand to taste this year.

Lorenzo Begali Valpolicella Classico 2011

Lot 20 131
Deep black almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense, with bright berry fruit supported by peppery spice and greenish acidity that mingle with slight animal accents and fairly bright acidity. Zesty. On the palate it's light and deft, with bright light cherry fruit supported by some greenish accents, fairly bright strawberry acidity, and by tannins that have a warm slightly greenish burr and flow into a warm slightly greenish strawberry laced finish. A simple lark of a wine that you will need a second bottle of because the first will just go.
2 stars

Lorenzo Begali La Cengia Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2010

Lot 20 130
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense,with ith berry fruit supported by sandalwood and some vegetal accents, and by pleasing mentholated spice with hints of licorice root as well; it has a zesty electric feel to it and is very much on its toes. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by bright slightly greenish cherry acidity and by tannins that are ample and clearly display the substance they drew from the Amarone marks, while the zest notes on the nose is present but not excessive, A finely balanced wine that will go very well with roasts or stews. A second bottle will come in handy.
88-90

Lorenzo Begali Tigiolo Rosso Veornese IGT 2008

Lot 10 721
This is a blend of Corvina and Cabernet, with considerably lesser amounts of Rondinella and Merlot, set to dry until November and then pressed. It's deep slightly purple ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish vegetal accents mingled with some chalk and peppery spice, and moderate mentholated accents. There's less fruit to it, and more minerality, and this is the international half of the blend coming to the fore. On the palate it's brighter, with ripe prune cherry fruit supported by dusky slightly vegetal accents and by tannins that are warm and peppery, and flo9w into a smooth sweet slightly vegetal finish. By comparison with the ripassa there's considerably less acidity, and while it is pleasant I found it less interesting.
2 stars

Lorenzo Begali Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2008

Lot 10 721
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is still very young, with prune cherry fruit supported by pleasant greenish vegetal accents and underlying spice. A lot going on, and very young. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by deft greenish vegetal accents and some sandalwood, and also slight leaf tobacco, and by tannins that are fairly smooth, though they still need time to settle and smooth. It's quite pleasant in an unfinished way, and if you happen upon one or more bottles you should exercise patience, because while you could drink and enjoy it now, you will enjoy it considerably more in 5-10 years. In short, a babe that needs to grow.
2 stars

Lorenzo Begali Ca Bianca Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007

111 28
They changed the labels in 2003 because people confused the Cà Bianca with their Amarone base. Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, and a head above the base, with sweetish prune fruit laced with sandalwood and licorice root, and with pleasing spice as well; it's very young yet, and though it shows the promise a gifted child might, it's quite obvious that it has a ways to go. On the palate it's full, with rich prune fruit supported by deft licorice root laced spice and tannins that will be smooth, but now have a splintery licorice root laced burr, and flow into a long licorice root laced finish. It's a toddler, and a pleasant one -- no tantrums here -- but still of that age, and while you could drink the wine now, it will richly reward you if you give it the time it needs to grow up. I would figure a decade or more.
88-90

Lorenzo Begali Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2009

Lot 11 031
Pyrope with violet rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is intense and sweet, with rich prune fruit supported by slight sandalwood and pleasant greenish accents with underlying greenish warmth and some pleasant spice. A lot going on, and frankly voluptuous. On the palate it's full and sweet, with powerful prune fruit supported by warmth and prune acidity, and also by sweet slightly greenish tannins that have some sandalwood accents, and flow into a long warm prune laced finish with bright prune acidity to hold it up, and pleasing sweetness for balance. A beautiful Recioto that will add magic to a selection of cheeses, or be perfect to sip far from the table with friends (while waiting for the Amarone to mature).
92

Valpolicella, Soave, Lugana & More: Some wines from the Azienda Bennati

The Azienda Bennati was established in 1920 by Annibale Bennati, whose father Antonio had been a successful wine merchant, dealing in wines from both Soave and Valpolicella. At the time Annibale also purchased several hectares of vineyards in their home town, Cazzano di Tramigna, which is in the Soave appellation, and after WWII, when his sons Ezio and Aldo began working with him, the family increased its holdings and began to produce Valpolicella as well.

This year they made their debut at the Amarone in Anteprima, and also introduced a new wine called Gardetta, which they offered to send me. I replied that I would be delighted to taste it, but that more than one wine would give me a better idea of their production. And they very kindly sent me six of their wines, a mixture of whites and reds from the Veronese.

We'll begin with the Amarone, drawn from my 2008 Anteprima notes :

Soraighe By Bennati Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2008

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with sour cherry fruit laced with India ink and some hints quinine, also some graphite shavings. Gives impression overripeness. On the palate it's ripe, with cherry plum fruit supported by dusky tannins and moderate acidity, while there are greenish sandalwood accents as well, and it flows into a rather bitter berry fruit finish. Fairly direct, and with time may become rather austere.
2 stars

And continue with the wines they sent me, which are all in the Soraighe line, their best, farmed to lower yields to increase quality:

Casa Vinicola Bennati Libet Soraighe Soave Classico DOC 2011

Lot 3053 (? Blurred)
Brassy pinkish gold with brassy highlights and white rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and quite fresh, with floral accents and loquat fruit supported by some honeydew melon and slight peppery vegetal accents with hints of white pepper as well. On the palate it's light, with bright white berry fruit supported by some honeydew melon and slight greenish brambly notes, with gunflint laced mineral acidity, and flows into a fairly long slightly greenish honeydew melon loquat finish with slightly bitter mineral notes that emerge as the fruit fades. Pleasant in a refreshing light rather languid key and will be a nice summer wine to drink with pasta salads, cool summer rice dishes, and similar, and will also be a nice picnic wine. Expect it to go quickly.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Bennati Soraighe Lugana DOC 2011

Lot number hidden by the fascetta, the band indicating DOCG status
Pale brassy yellow with bronze-salmonate reflections and white rim. The color -- the reflections in particular -- is a little unusual for a Lugana. The bouquet is instead typical, with loquat and brambly heather mingled with fairly mineral acidity and some gunflint, and underlying spice. On the palate it's fairly full, with warm lemony loquat fruit supported by bright citric acidity that has some brambly accents, and by slight gunflint that flows into a fairly long rather bitter more grapefruit than lemon finish. It's more powerful and more angular than the Soave, and will work better with more flavorful dishes, say a rich fish risotto, or grilled fish, or fried fish or fried white meats. Again, it will drink quickly in the proper setting.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Bennati Gardetta Soraighe Rosso del Veneto IGT 2009

A Corvina-Merlot blend, Lot not apparent.
Inky pyrope that doesn't lighten a jot at the rim. The bouquet is intense, with jammy berry fruit supported by fairly intense graphite shaving bitterness and fairly intense cassis with slight violet floral accents, and some underlying rust and bramble. On the palate it's full, with rather bitter berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that have a warm bitter underpinning, and aren't as smooth as I generally expect Merlot tannins (which as a rule have a profound influence) to be; here the Merlot comes through more in the cast of the fruit while the tannins are more Corvina's doing -- though they are smoothed some -- and the effect is rather dusky. It's not a wine to be sipped by the glass, but will work nicely with hearty stews, for example a goulash (they are made in the Veneto too) or a pastissada.
2 stars

Casa Vinicola Bennati Ireos Soraighe Rosso Veronese IGT 2008

A Rondinella, Corvina, Molinara, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Nero blend, Lot 1325.

Inky pyrope ruby with cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with cedar and berry fruit supported by some vegetal accents and underlying spice with some greenish notes as well. On the palate it's full, and rather exotic, with berry fruit supported by cedar and some cumin spice, and by tannins that are rather vegetal and flow into a fairly long rather vegetal finish with underlying peppery accents and some bitterness. It comes across as trying very hard, but is rather blocky, and all flows together, with some cabernet elements that do color the rest. With a lighter touch, it could be more interesting.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Bennati Gadum Cabernet Sauvignon Veneto IGT 2009

Lot 1335
Poured pyrope ink, with the barest lightening at the rim. The bouquet is ripe, and jammy, with prune plum fruit laced with slight greenish vegetal accents and hints of cocoa supported by spice, flinty mineral acidity, and some bitter notes. It gives an impression of roundness. An impression confirmed on the palate; it's full with fairly rich ripe jammy forest berry fruit-plum fruit with slight vegetal accents supported by tannins that have a warm bell pepper laced burr -- the Cabernet comes out -- and flows into a fairly long rather bitter graphite laced forest berry fruit finish. It's fairly direct, and is again more of a food wine than a sipping wine; it's quite powerful and will work well with hearty roasts or stews.
1 star

Casa Vinicola Bennati Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2009

Lot hidden by the Fascetta, the band indicating DOCG status
Inky pyrope ruby with deep pyrope rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with some berry fruit supported by cedar and some spice with greenish accents; it's still developing and needs time. On the palate it's fairly rich, with bright rather jammy greenish fruit supported by moderate acidity and tannins that are warm, with a spicy cedar laced burr and some underlying bitterness, and flow into a fairly sweet sandalwood laced finish with a cedary underpinning. It's rather direct, and though it does need another year to come together is not quite as tight as I might have liked; this said, it will do a nice job of accompanying stews or roasts.
1 star

It was an interesting group of wines; I found the Soave to be the most interesting, because it was lighter, and while the fruit was luscious, displaying a certain agility that will make it enjoyable in the summer months, followed by the Lugana, which is again the sort of wine one can set out and drink on a summer day.

The reds were somewhat more problematic for me; while the search for quality is quite evident in the power and concentration they display, the search for these qualities is taken further than I might have liked, and as a consequence finesse and agility suffer. This is especially true of Ireos, which I found rather muscle bound. Their Amarone, tasted at the Anteprima, is defter, as is Gardetta, and it will be interesting to taste future vintages.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

I have known the Tedeschi family for many years: when I visited the Valpolicella region to collect samples shortly after founding the Italian Wine Review (which was then a paper magazine) they quite willingly contributed samples, and when Vinitaly rolled around invited me to a dinner. Which has by now become a tradition, on the first night of the Fiera. I tasted most of these wines on the first day of the Fiera, and finished up on the second.

Captel Tenda Soave Classico 2010
Lot 2 2010 (I think)
Pale brassy yellow with brilliant brassy reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with herbal notes and some heather mingled with spice and sea salt. Fresh, and still developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively white berry fruit supported by acidity and sea salt, with some peppery spice as well that adds depth and verve, and it flows into a fairly long peppery finish with considerable vegetal accents and a savory underpinning that continues at length. It's fresh and fairly direct, but a touch heavy; it will drink well as an aperitif with cheese or fish based antipasti, and also be nice with grilled or roasted fish, while it also has the backbone necessary for risotti or simple white meats.
1 star

Corasco Rosso delle Venezia IGT 2008
Lot 181
This is a blend of Corvina, Raboso and Refosco, made after drying the grapes slightly. It's fairly deep cherry ruby with black reflections and some garnet in the rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with bu and alcohol mingled with brambles and some brambly acidity, and with underlying spice; there's also some wet earth. On the palate it's brighter than one might expect from the nose, with lively dusky cherry fruit supported by a warm peppery burr and by bright acidity that flows into a long finish that owes its considerable warmth in part to alcohol (14%). It's quite brash, aggressive even, and very mich a food wine; I wouldn't drink it by the glass,, and would make certain my guests like this style before I opened a bottle because it's not for everyone. If it is for you, it will work quite well with grilled meats, including fattier things such as spare ribs (seasoned the Italian way, with salt, pepper, rosemary & perhaps sage), and also with fired meats, for example lamb chops.
1 star

Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2009
Lot 181
The label says appassimento, drying; it's lively cherry ruby with hints of almandine in the rim, and ahs a fairly rich bouquet with cherry plum fruit supported by sandalwood, spice, and moderate alcoholic warmth. Nice balance and harmony, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by moderately intense tannins that have a warm peppery burr and by bright berry fruit acidity that has slight brambly accents, and it flows into a fairly long warm sour cherry finish. It's quite approachable in a brash key, rather like a grinning tomboy with scabs on her knees, and if you like the style it will work well with pasta dishes, meat-based risotti, simple grilled meats, including fattier fare,a nd also fried meats and vegetables
2 stars

Lucchine Valpolicella Classico 2010
Lot 1618
Pale cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright and brambly with lively sour cherry fruit supported by greenish brambly accents and some sandalwood, with slight alcoholic warmth as well. On the palate it's light, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are rather slight, and flow into a warm sour cherry finish. Quite pleasant, a simple, lark of a wine that will drink very well with simple foods, ranging from pasta and burgers through light strews. It would be nice to drink day-by-day.
2 stars

Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore DOC Ripasso 2008
Lot 634
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and warmth with some sandalwood as well. Still coming together. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by peppery spice and fairly intense warmth, while there is also deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that have a warm burr and hints of sweetness to them, and flow into a warm peppery finish. It's quite young and still coming together, but promises nicely, and will work quite well with stews or roasts when it has another year or two under its belt.
2 stars

La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2007
Lot 162 (I think)
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and some orange in the rim. The bouquet is rich, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by some sandalwood and pleasant spice with a fair amount of alcojhol as well. Still very young, and needs time to grow. On the palate it's medium bodied tending towards full, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by deft peppery berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are smooth, but do have a peppery burr that continues into the finish, which is fairly long and rather alcoholic. Pleasant in a fairly brash key, and, like the other wines, needs time, If you must drink it now, drink it with a roast or stew, but if you can give it time it will reward you.
2 stars

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lot 10b3
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still quite young, with cherry fruit supported by alcohol and greenish vegetal accents mingled with sandalwood spice; it's elegant but not too happy about being open. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful spicy cherry fruit supported by some sweetness, and by considerable warmth, while the tannins are clean and have a warm burr to them, flowing into a long clean slightly jammy berry fruit finish with underlying exotic spice. It's still very much a child, and though one could approach it one should with caution, because it's not happy and might bite. But it does have considerable potential, and is a wine I would simply set aside and forget about for a few years, because the potential is there.
88-90

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Cask sample
Deep black pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is moderately rich, with berry fruit and some sandalwood. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with slight sweetness, and considerably more approachable than the 2006, and this is especially impressive considering that it's a cask sample while the 06 is already in bottle and has been for a while. It will be graceful in a ripe approachable key, and will drink very well with stews or roasts. I expect nice things from it.

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Lot 1b3
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich licorice-laced sligthoy candied cherry fruit supported by some sandalwood and spice, and by a fair amount of alcohol as well. It's clearly very young, and shows considerable promise. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful rather bitter cherry plum fruit laced with licorice and sandalwood, and supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a peppery burr, the one I have come to associate with the vintage, and flow into a long warm peppery finish. It needs time, another 2-3 years at least for the tannins to smooth and gain grace, at which point it will be very nice, and continue to age well for a decade longer at least. If you feel you must drink it sooner, pair it with something rich along the lines of leg of lamb, fairly well done.
88-90

Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Cask sample
Deep ruby with hints of orange in the rim; it's not quite as dark as the 06. The bouquet is rich, and fairly sweet, with cherry fruit supported by spice and sweetness, and some sandalwood too. Promises nicely. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with rich cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acdity and by tannins that are much softer and smoother than those of the 2006. It's going to be graceful in a fairly rich warm weather key -- a touch less complexity, and a touch less acidity -- and shows considerable promise.

La Fabriseria Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007
Cask sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black cherry towards the rim, and orange nail. The bouquet is powerful and a bit up in the air, with red berry fruit and sandalwood with some underlying cedar and spice, and if one concentrates an underlying vein of sweetness that brings Recioto to mind. On the palate it's ample, rich, and fairly sweet (for a dry wine) with prune cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and elegant greenish sandalwood spice. As was the case with the other 2007 wines, its tannins are much softer than those of the 2006, and it will be more approachable sooner; it will also be graceful in a rather voluptuous key. Something to look out for.

Capitel Fontana Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Cask sample
Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, and sweet, with prune fruit shot though with greenish accents and spice; it has an angry feel to it. On the palate it's full and sweet, with elegant sandalwood-laced jammy cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that do reveal a slight burr in the finish, with is fairly long, gradually settling into sweet warmth. The tannins are softer than those of the Amaroni, though they do have a slight peppery component to them, and this is I think because of the sweetness. It's pleasant and will work quite well with green or well aged cheeses, assuming you don't decide to sip it with friends far from the table.

Serego Alighieri: Valpolicella and More

The Serego Alighieri estate has belonged to the Serego Alighieri family for hundreds of years -- following Dante's exile from Florence his son Pietro Alighieri bought land in the Valpolicella, and there the family stayed; in the 1500s the last Alighieri married into the Serego family, and that line of the Serego family added Alighieri to their name.

In 1973 Count Pieralvise Serego Alighieri reached an agreement with a neighbor, Sandro Boscaini, by which they would make and age their wines (they still have, in a walled vineyard, Molinara vines belonging to the Serego Alighieri clone, on native root stock, while in their cellars they use, in addition to oak, 600 liter cherry casks, following an old Veronese tradition that they are the only ones to continue), while Masi Agricola would take care of bottling and selling the wines, and provided technical assistance as necessary.

The goal was to promote quality, which was a revolutionary idea at the time (as was a collaboration between two wineries), and the relationship has worked very well; Serego Alighieri's wines are now renowned and eagerly sought out throughout the world.

This winter Piervalise's daughter Massimilla presented their wines at the Ristorante Olivero in Florence, and I was fortunate enough to be invited. We began with a white, the only one produced within the Valpolicella Classico zone. It's a blend of Garganega and Sauvignon:

Serego Alighieri Possessioni Bianco IGT Veneto 2009
Pale brassy yellow. The bouquet is quite ripe, with elegant white berry fruit that has some passion fruit and some sweetish accents. It's rather voluptuous, with the Sauvignon evident but not in-your-face. On the palate it's bright, with lively greenish lemony fruit supported by an abundance of savory minerality that provides depth, with some artichoke stem accents that are rather pleasant, and lead into a long clean savory finish with greenish vegetal and sour lemon underpinning. Pleasant, and while it worked well as an aperitif it would also be quite nice with fish.
2 stars

Serego Alighieri Possessioni Rosso IGT Veneto 2009
This is a blend of Corvina, Molinara of the Serego Alighieri clone, and Sangiovese. Deep cherry ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is rich, with violets and red berry fruit supported by some alcohol and pleasant sour berry fruit acidity, with some wood, that has cherry accents. Fresh and inviting. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by lively acidity, with some dusky graphite bitterness and fairly intense minerality that carry into a long, brooding berry fruit finish. The Molinara is pre-phylloxera, planted in 1875 to celebrate the birth of Massimilla's great grandfather Piervalise, while the Sangiovese is for them traditional -- they have been planting it since the 1800s, to round their wines, and it works. Quite well.
2 stars

Serego Alighieri Valpolicella Dell'Anniversario Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2007
The first vintage of this was made in 1999 (and released in 2003), to celebrate their 650th anniversary, and Massimilla's Father and Mr. Boscaini chose to make a Valpolicella rather than an Amarone to emphasize the importance of Valpolicella. They made 3000 magnums, and to their surprise it proved quite popular. It's produced using the double fermentation technique, which is essentially what is called Governo Toscano in Tuscany -- partially dried grapes are added to the wine as it sits in the tanks in November, relaunching the fermentation and providing greater depth and richness, and also perking it up. Following fermentation it spent 3-4 months in cherry, and then went into large oak.

Deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim. The bouquet is powerful, and dusky, with rich prune cherry fruit supported by rich berry fruit and shadowy accents, with some underbrush and slight violets as well. Quite elegant, On the palate it's deft, with lively cherry fruit supported by considerable graphite bitterness and very smooth tightly woven tannins, while what acidity there is -- not too much -- is more mineral than fruit derived, and the finish is fairly long, fading into bitterness. It's graceful in a relatively brooding key, and is a wine one can converse with, though it's not a wine I would suggest if you like bright fruit-driven wines. If you instead prefer wines that are more thoughtful you will like it very much.
88-90

Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2005 The Vaio Amaron is a small valley on their property, and Massimilla said, with a sly grin, that they like to think of it as an alternative etymology for Amarone. They accept slight botrytization of the grapes as they dry, because it results in glycerin that softens the wine, without contributing sweetness.

Deep black almandine with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with alcohol and some sandalwood spice supported by red berry fruit that gradually emerges as the wine opens, supported by alcohol, cocoa, and some brandied berry fruit accents. On the palate it's rich, with powerful jammy cherry fruit supported by some sweetness and tannins that are brooding, with considerable peppery spice and some minerality that flow into a rather peppery finish, which is elegant and fairly long. It's not as rich as a better vintage would be, but quite nice and a beautiful expression of 2005.
92

Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC 1995 I recall this vintage as having been cool and wet in Tuscany -- several periods of rain -- and in the Veneto, Massimilla says, it was "bizarre." Deep brick ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with leaf tobacco and savory notes mingled with cedar and camphor, supported by fairly intense sour cherry fruit and some Moroccan leather. Nice depth. On the palate it's fairly rich, with dry cherry fruit supported by smooth tannins that have a degree of cherry dryness and resin to them -- the wine spent longer in cherry wood than it does now -- and flow into a long warm finish. It has a distant feel to it and a fellow taster says it reminds him of a Marsala, and I can understand the impression. Nice, but clearly from a more difficult vintage.
88-90

Serego Alighieri Casal Dei Ronchi Recioto della Valpolicella Classico DOC 2006 Impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with graphite and some bitterness supported by moderate berry fruit -- black cherry and blackberry -- and by some sweetness. On the palate it opens nicely, revealing rich red berry fruit and blackberry fruit with delicate slightly sour prune accents supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a deft graphite shaving overlay and flow into a clean rather bitter finish in which graphite balances sweetness, and there are slight rusty accents. Quite deft, and will drink nicely far from the table or with cheeses. It's a more measured interpretation of Recioto than some, concentrating more on finesse and balance than opulence.
2 stars

Cesari: Lugana & Valpolicella

The day trip I took with Michele Shah and a group of English-speaking journalists after the Amarone Anteprima finished with Cesari.

The estate, which was founded in 1936 by Gherardo Cesari, is a sizeable winery, and in addition to making wine from grapes from proprietary vineyards, they also purchase grapes from growers whose production they oversee. We started out with a Lugana, which was a welcome change of pace, and then continued with reds.


Cesari Cento Filari Lugana DOC 2009
95% Trebbiano and 5% Chardonnay; they cut the grapes, leaving them in the vineyards to dry for 20 days, and then harvest them. The goal is to increase the body of the wine; considering that it ferments in steel the color suggests the goal has been reached -- it's brilliant brassy gold with slightly greenish reflections. The bouquet is powerful, with bitter almonds and pleasant heather with some sunny acidity as well. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich lemony fruit supported by savory notes and some delicate soft white grape tannins that have a slight burr and flow into a clean fairly bright fresh citrus laced finish with some greenish accents. It will work nicely as an aperitif and with hearty flavorful fish, including fish stews and flavorful grilled fish, and it has the body to work well with white meats too.
2 stars

Cesari Mara Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2008
Deep black cherry ruby with cherry rim; it's close to poured ink. The bouquet is fairly intense, and fruity - plum cherry fruit - with some floral accents and hints of dark chocolate supported by slight cedar and sandalwood. On the palate it's quite approachable, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderately bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr and flow into a clean slightly sour burr with some leafy undertones that emerge in the finish. It's a bit more direct than the Bosan Ripasso (see below), and a little fresher, something that also depends upon its younger age.
2 stars

Cesari Bosan Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso 2007
This is made using the skins from the Amarone Bosan. It's deep cherry ruby that has very slightly more brick to it, and this reflects its greater age. The bouquet is fairly powerful, with berry fruit supported by a fair amount of cedar, and some cedar as well, with underlying sandalwood. Harmonious in an international key. On the palate it's quite approachable, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains definition and is supported by cedar-laced tannins that also have some sandalwood bitterness and mineral acidity; the tannins are quite smooth, and the wine is very approachable in an international key; it will drink well with stews or roasts, and if you like the style you will like it very much.
2 stars

Cesari Jemma Corvina Veronese IGT 2005
This is a new wine that they decided to make to understand Corvina on its own. They didn't want to recreate Amarone, but did dry the grapes for 20 days. It's impenetrable pyrope with cherry rim, and has a fairly rich bouquet with fresh berry fruit supported by cedar and tart berry fruit acidity with some nutmeg spice and hints of sandalwood. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry and forest berry fruit supported by deft acidity and by tannins that have a fair amount of cedar to them, and flow into a clean rather bitter cocoa laced finish with berry fruit underpinning. It's pleasant in a very international key, and if you like bright fruit driven wines in this style -- it's not the least bit overripe -- you will enjoy it considerably. It will work very well with stews or roasts, and also with braised meats.
2 stars

Cesari Amarone Classico della Valpolicella 2007
This sends a year in large wood. Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with leathery notes and greenish accents mingled with brown sugar sweetness and some prune plum fruit, while there is also some sandalwood, and a fair amount of peppery spice. On the palate it's full and fairly sweet, with prune fruit supported by greenish acidity and tannins that have a warm burr, and flow into a clean fairly sweet prune finish. It's typical of the vintage, in a softer riper key, with less acidity and brightness to the fruit than I might have liked. This said, it will age nicely for a few years, becoming lacy and rather austere with time.
1 star

Cesari Bosco Amarone Classico della Valpolicella 2004
This is from a vineyard near San Pietro in Cariano, and spent 24 months in wood, 12 in bariques and 12 more in large oak. Poured ink; it's deep black almandine with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and some sandalwood, with underlying jammy accents and slight nutmeg as well. Pleasant, and quite fresh. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich, fairly bright cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a warm peppery sandalwood burr that flows into a fairly long berry fruit finish with peppery tannic underpinning. Pleasant, and much, much brighter than the 07; it's more what I would hope for from an Amarone, and to my mind much more successful.
2 stars

Cesari Bosan Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2003
This spent 36 months in wood, 18 in bariques and another 18 in large oak. Impenetrable black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry ruby rim. The bouquet is powerful, and frankly oaky, with a great deal of licorice and chocolate that comes from the oak, and also warm bright greenish notes with some cedar, and a fair amount of alcohol as well. It's quite charged, and the fruit is generic red berry fruit more than some thing specific, and this is an effect of the vintage's considerable heat. On the palate it's sweet for an Amarone, with moderately intense generic berry fruit supported by warmth and acidity that's warmer and more fruit driven than I had expected, and by smooth soft tannins that flow into a fairly long warm finish. It's a nice expression of a difficult vintage, and though it does suffer the limitations -- the grapes weren't as properly ripe nor as complex as a better vintage's would have been, it is pleasant and will drink nicely with succulent roasts or stews, and braised meats too, or even a bollito misto.
2 stars

Want to know more about Cesari? Their Site.

Villa Monteleone: Nice Wines from Gargagnago, in the Valpolicella

The day after the Amarone Anteprima, the Consorzio organized several tours through the region for those who had come to the presentation, and I joined Michelle Shah and several other English-speaking journalists. Our first stop was Villa Monteleone, which is in the town of Gargagnago.

The place is quite beautiful, and in addition to making wines they operate a bed & breakfast with very nice rooms, a couple of which are pictured here. In short, you could well go for the wines and stay on to explore the area.

Raffaele Bovo, their cellarmaster and agronomist, said, in the course of showing us around, that the varietal breakdown of the wines is roughly 70% Corvina, 20% Corvinone, and 5% each Rondinella and Molinara. The Amarone has relatively more Corvina and Corvinone, though the varietals are mixed in the vineyards, and this makes separating them out more difficult. Of their production, about 85% is exported.

The Wines, Tasted at the end of January 2011:

Villa Monteleone Campo Santa Lena Valpolicella Classico 2009
Ferments in steel, and ages 6 months in bottle. Lively cherry ruby with pink rim. The bouquet is bright and fresh, with rich sour cherries supported by brambly acidity and savory notes, also some underbrush and greenish vegetal accents. Bright, with hints of dappled shade. On the palate it's fairly rich, with nice red berry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that seem a little dry when drunk by itself, but that will work nicely to balance something such as pasta with a meat sauce or succulent burgers. The finish is pleasantly fruity with some vegetal accents, and you could well want a second bottle.
2 stars

Villa Monteleone Campo San Vito Valpolicella Superiore 2008
This is a ripasso; the wine spends 4-5 days on the lees of the Amarone -- not longer because the seeds can give off less good aromas if the riapssata is overdone. Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with sour cherries supported by greenish sandalwood and pleasant spice with slight jammy accents. Nice balance and pleasant to sniff; it opens nicely gaining intensity of both fruit and spice, hints nutmeg and mace. On the palate it's pleasant, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by tannins that have pleasing bitter accents and a slight burr that flows into a clean slightly greenish finish. Pleasant, and will work very well with hearty stews and succulent roasts, but needs another year or two to get its bearings and smooth. I would expect it to age well for 5-8 years.
2 stars


Villa Monteleone Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2007
Deep cherry ruby with bright black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, and bright for a 2007, with cherry fruit that has some prune accents supported by some brown sugar and hints of sandalwood with underlying hints of jamminess. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by moderate acidity and clean fairly sweet tannins that have slight bitter accents and a slight burr that will smooth in with time; the finish is fairly sweet and fairly long with some bitter accents. Pleasant, and will drink nicely with succulent stews or boiled meats now, though it will reward those who have some patience.


Villa Monteleone Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Classico 2005
Deep ruby with almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with brighter cherry fruit (now) than the 07, with berry fruit supported by brambly accents and sandalwood, with hints of cumin and sea salt too. Considerable complexity On the palate it's rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and some brown sugar sweetness, with tannins that are a touch drier than they might be in a better vintage, with some hints of vanilla as well, and flows into a clean slightly sour finish. Very pleasant in an obviously lesser, cooler wetter vintage key: with respect to a better vintage it's thinner and lighter, but is a very fine expression of the 05.
90-91


Villa Monteleone Recioto della Valpolicella 2004
This spends three years in wood before bottling, during which time they watch it closely because it is want to referment. Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is elegant, and a bit less sweet than some, with bitter accents mingled into the sweetness, brown sugar, some vegetal notes, hints of green squash (which sounds odd but works very well), dates and dried fruit, and opens beautifully, growing and gaining in complexity. On the palate it's rich, with elegant plum cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a rich, sweet finish. Beautiful wine, and the perfect thing to open with (good) friends far from the table, and will work very well with cheeses too.
92

Villa Monteleone Recioto della Valpolicella 2005 Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is elegant, with cantaloupe and hints of sandalwood on the outset, followed by elegant fried fruit and underlying sweetness. Quite pleasant to sniff, and beautiful depth. On the palate it's very rich, with elegant cherry fruit, supported by deft cedar that is a bit more apparent than in the 04, though this is also because it's a year younger, and flows into a long sweet berry fruit finish. Beautiful, and most impressive, with some sandalwood spice in the finish as well.
90

Want to know more about the winery or the B&B? Their Site

The Photo of the Week: Amarone in the Making, Revisited, and the Wines of Le Bignale

The last photo of the week showed Amarone as it was being pumped over the cap in the fermentation tank.

It takes Amarone much longer than most wines to reach that stage, however: The grapes are first dried (without heating, by cool dry air) to raisins, a process that takes several months, during which the sugars are concentrated and a variety of chemical changes that give Amarone its characteristic bouquet and palate take place.

I took this shot at the end of January, at the Azienda Agricola Aldrighetti - Le Bignele in Marano di Valpolicella. They still use the traditional blend, including Molinara, which is the redder bunch. Perfect grapes almost ready to be pressed. And the wines? I tasted them with Luigi and his daughter Silvia

Before we get to them, a brief introduction.

The Aldrighetti family has long made wine, but Angelo and Luigi, who are brothers, only decided to bottle it themselves in 2005 -- I can easily imagine the people they sold to's being rather unhappy with their decision -- and the winery building has an almost-finished look about it; the essentials are all there, but the landscaping will wait. And this is as it should be.

Their vineyards are directly below the winery, and what I looked at was -- if I understood correctly -- east sloping. The vines are trained high, in the Pergola style, which goes counter to the current preferences for Guyot training that one sees in much of the Valpolicella (and most everywhere else, for that matter), and Luigi told me that they prefer the pergola because the ground contains a great deal of moisture, enough that hot dry summers are not a problem for them, and because of this having the bunches further separated from the ground significantly reduces problems with rot and mold.

Their total production is currently about 30,000 bottles. They still sell some of their wine to help pay the bills, but plan to reduce bulk sales and purchase more vineyards, thus increasing their total production to 80,000 bottles.

The wines, tasted at the end of January 2011:

Le Bignele Sulà Rosso Veronese IGT 2009
This is 35% Rondinella, 60-65% Corvina and Corvinone, and a little Molinara. It differs from Valpolicella in that it ferments and is bottled without the year of aging that the Valpolicella undergoes. Lively cherry ruby with brilliant ruby reflections and pink rim. The bouquet is fresh, with sour cherries mingled with greenish vegetal accents and pleasing violets. Quite fresh, and pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's light, and fruity, with lively sour cherry fruit that gains depth from some greenish accents, and is supported by tannins that have a slight greenish burr to them, and flow into a fairly long bright tart finish. Very pleasant in a lighter key, and will drink beautifully with simple grilled meats or light stews. In short, a perfect cookout wine. Expect it to go quickly. Nice acidity and quite sunny.
2 stars

Le Bignele Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2004
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with fairly rich sour cherry fruit supported by some greenish vegetal accents and some iodine too, with pleasant savory accents as well, and it opens nicely, showing considerable finesse. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright sour cherry acidity and sour cherry fruit supported by tannins that are slightly greenish and have a bite to them though they are not coarse, and flow into a bright sour cherry finish. If you like smoother softer wines it won't work as well for you far from the table, but with grilled meats or light roasts it will be quite nice -- fried things such as lamb chops too-- and if you like the style, which is fairly aggressive, you will enjoy it very much.
88-90

Le Bignele Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso DOC 2003
Lively black cherry ruby with brilliant ruby highlights and black reflections. The bouquet is fresh, with berry fruit that's fairly rich but not as tart as the 04, and that's because of the vintage, which resulted in large grapes because of the moisture in the soil, and also produced quite a bit of noble rot in the vineyards, something that they hadn't experience with previously. Pleasant, however, and on the palate it's rich, with fairly lively cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and by tannins that have a warm greenish burr, which is in part the ripasso. With respect to many 2003 wines it's nowhere near as overripe, displaying acidity that the others lack, and freshness too. It's not at the level of the 04, but is very pleasant to drink.
2 stars

Le Bignele Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2004
Deep garnet ruby with black highlights and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted at first swish, though more swishing brings up deft berry fruit supported by some cedar and sandalwood, with slight underlying sweetness. Beautiful harmony and elegance, in a wine that is still very young. On the palate it's rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and tannins that are fairly bitter, and still very young; flowing into a clean rather bitter finish. It's quite pleasant, and still very young; one could drink it now with a roast -- leg of lamb comes to mind -- but if you have the patience to give it another 3-5 years it will richly reward you. If you can wait longer, better yet.
88-90 (Now)

Le Bignele Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2005
Lively cherry ruby with brilliant reflections and black highlights. The bouquet is fairly rich, with sour cherry fruit whose sourness is more marked than the 04's and with some sandalwood notes as well. It has cleaned up nicely sine it was presented a couple of years ago, but is less fresh than the 04. On the palate it's full, with considerable alcohol and berry fruit that's lighter and less round, while the tannins are a bit more strident, and have a much more pronounced burr that carries into the finish. The 05 was disjointed as a vintage, with high heat and rainfall, and the combination makes for unbalance and disequilibrium. This said, the wine is quite good, and a superb expression of the vintage.
2 stars

Le Bignele Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2007
Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, though still young, with berry fruit that has some prune accents and also a fair amount of sweetness, though it is fresher and brighter than many of the 07 Amaroni. Nice balance and very young. On the palate it's fairly rich, with fairly sweet cherry plum fruit -- it's sweeter than the older vintages -- while the tannins have a slightly greener feel to them, and flow into a clean burr that carries into the finish. It's pleasant though very, very young, and will need another 3-5 years to begin to show its best.
2 stars

Le Bignele Recioto della Valpolicella DOC 2005
This Recioto ages in steel and was bottled for a year ago. It is deep black cherry ruby with violet reflections and white rim. The bouquet is somewhat tarter than many Recioti, with plum berry fruit supported by deft vegetal accents and pleasing sandalwood spice. Quite pleasant, and as it opens sweetness emerges. Very nice. On the palate it's full, rich, and very smooth, with powerful plum cherry fruit supported by lively acidity and very smooth sweet tannins, while there is also some sandalwood, and it carries into a bright berry fruit finish. It's more acidic than many recioti, and this makes it brighter, a delightful experience. They served it with Gorgonzola piccante, and the combination is perfect.
90

Want to know more? Visit their site!

The Photo of the Week: Amarone in the Making

I have worked in the past as a photographer, and whenever I visit a winery have a camera if not in my hand, strapped over a shoulder. I have therefore decided it's time to post a weekly photo -- sometimes it will match the weekly photo I post on Italian food at About.Com, and others not.

This past week I was in Valpolicella for the Anteprima of the 2007 vintage, which will be coming shortly. On Sunday the Consorzio had organized several tours, and I the opportunity. Here we have Amarone in the making (pumping over, actually), at the Azienda Agricola Aldrighetti - Le Bignele in Marano di Valpolicella. The aroma was heavenly.

Tasted at Vinitaly: Tedeschi

This year Tedeschi did things a little differently, presenting, in addition to the current releases, a number of older vintages to underline the aging capacity of their wines. I began with them, and then worked through their more recent vintages. It was a very pleasant hour.

Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicalò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit laced with some underbrush and wet leaves, and also pleasing spice with some balsamic accents and leaf tobacco. Nice balance and considerable depth in a rather dusky key. On the palate it's full, round, and quite smooth, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by lively sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long warm finish. One wouldn't guess it is close to 10 years old. A child, no longer a babe, with along future.
89-90

Tedeschi Capitel dei Nicolaò Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2000
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with jammy berry fruit laced with balsamic accents and some spice; it is clearly from a hotter vintage (August 2000 was as hot as 2003) but is nicely balanced and quite rich. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful jammy fruit supported by lively acidity than is brighter than I expected given the heat of august 2000, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant and has a lot to say and share in a slightly more aggressive key, and this is an effect of the heat; while it is quite ready to drink it also has the legs to age well for another decade or more. It's more skittish than the 2001, because of the heat, which affected the ripening of the tannins, and because of this skittishness is a tad more interesting.
90-91

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 1995
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and almandine rim; The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by some brown sugar sweetness, and by dusky leaf tobacco and spice. Quick to write, but quite harmonious and very pleasant to sniff. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sandalwood laced cherry fruit that has some jammy accents and considerable warmth, and is supported by a combination of deft berry fruit acidity and very smooth sweet tobacco laced tannins that flow into a long warm finish with balsamic berry fruit that has some brown sugar sweetness and tobacco mixed into it. Very nice, and beautiful proof of the aging capacity of the wines from Verona, as if there were any need.
92

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Rosso Vino da Tavola Veronese 1998
Deep almandine laced brownish ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Beginning to show its age. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by candied accents and brown sugar, and sweet balasamic notes as well, with some spice, in particular cracked black pepper, and alcohol too. Quite elegant, and has a great lot to say; it's one of those wines one can swish and sniff, and swish and sniff without feeling the need to sip. But tasters must, and on the palate it's ample, with rich dusky cherry fruit supported by moderate acidity and sandalwood, and by tannins that are quite smooth and have warm balsamic accents and flow into a clean balsam laced finish that is quite long. Very pleasant, and will drink quite well with roasts or grilled meats, and also has a long ways left to age, though if you let it age further you should be a lover of aged, as opposed to young wines.
88-90

Tedeschi Rosso La Fabriseria Rosso del Veronese IGT 2001
This was made with a small percentage of Cabernet, hence the IGT designation (now the Cabernet is gone, and it's a Valpolicella Superiore). Deep pigeon blood ruby with some garnet accents and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is powerful and spicy, with sandalwood and berry fruit mingled with cedar; the Cabernet adds to the richness but doesn't stand out. A great lot going on in a rich spicy, slightly exotic key, and quite interesting. On the palate it's ample and rich with spicy berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean spicy almost mentholated finish with lasting warmth. Elegant anf quite interesting; the tannins impart a slight dryness that would lead me to drink it with foods rather than far fdrom the table, and with a rich stew it would be about perfect.
2 stars

And Now The Current Wines:

Tedeschi Lucchine Valpolicella Classico 2009 DOC
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fresh and vinous with lively floral accents and rich berry fruit supported by strawberry and sandalwood mingled with cherry fruit. Youth in a glass. On the palate it's rich and fresh, with lively berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by tannins that have a dusky burr and flow into a fairly long berry fruit finish. A light lark of a wine, which will work nicely with simple grilled meats, or light stews, and will also be a nice accompaniment to meat based pasta dishes or cookouts. In short, versatile, and it will go quite fast. What a basic Valpolicella should be. Worth seeking out.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Appassimento Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC 2008
Deep pigeon blood ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is rich, with sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by greenish accents and considerable white pepper spice. Pleasant in a very young key, and though it clearly will develop, it's inviting now. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by deft brambly acidity and tannins that have a slight greenish burr and flow into a clean greenish berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and though it will develop with time I would almost be tempted to drink it now with a steak, overtones enjoy its freshness. Very nice.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel San Rocco Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC 2007
Elegant ruby with black reflections and black rim. The bouquet is still developing, but displays warmth and spice mingled with berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol. It's coming together, but needs another year to get its bearings. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by greenish acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight Valpolicella greenish burr, and flow into a clean berry fruit finish with bitter accents. It needs at least a year and would be happier with two or more; quite nice and worth seeking out, but do give it some time.
2 stars

Tedeschi La Fabriseria Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2007
Elegant black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense and very young, revealing berry fruit mingled with spice, in particular cumin seed that opens to reveal bell pepper vegetal accents, and a fair amount of alcohol. Not quite a work in progress, but close. On the palate it's ample and rich, with powerful berry fruit supported by greenish bell peppers and pepper acidity supported by dusky spice and acidity, and by tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, but needs time; it will likely become a meditation wine in years overtones come, but will work well in the near future with rich stews or roasts, and Verona's bollito misto also comes to mind..
88-90

Tedeschi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim paling to almandine. The bouquet is intense and very young, with cherry fruit supported by licorice root and peppery spice with some sandalwood and also hints of scalded milk -- it's still coming together and needs time. On the palate it's full, and rich, and farly sweet, with lively sandalwood laced berry fruit supported by sweet jammy accents and peppery spice, while the tannins are peppery with some sandalwood and licorice root overtones, and flow into a long fairly sweet finish. Quite charged, and an abundance of power that is still working hard to figure out what to do with itself. It's very much in the air, but will clean up nicely in a fairly sweet (for an Amarone) key and work well with rich stews or roasts. In short, it has a ways to go, and I wouldn't think of opening it before 2013.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2005
Impenetrable black lam with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by clean rather pungent underbrush and considerable sandalwood spice, and also by deft warmth; it's quick to write and very young but also very pleasant, and quite rich in a cooler vintage key in which the fruit is rich but not as ripe as it was in the 2006 vintage. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry plum fruit supported by clean fresh plum cherry acidity and by considerable peppery spice, while the tannins are sweet, but still quite young, and need another couple of years to develop, at which point they will be drinkable but at the beginning of a long climb. It will have a lot overtones say -- does already -- but really isn't ready yet, and I would give it 3-5 years to come together and expect it to age well for a decade or more. A very fine expression of a cooler vintage Amarone.
90

Tedeschi Capitel Monte Olmi Amarone della Valpolicella DOC 2006
Just bottled
Deep pyrope ruby with purple reflections and cherry rim. It's younger looking in terms of color register than the 2005, and this is the vintage as much as the wine. The bouquet is intense, with greenish accents and berry fruit supported by sandalwood and a fair amount of alcohol; by comparison with the 05 there is more fruit and less spice, and Sabrina says this is the direction they are taking; I can't but agree. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich fairly sweet prune and berry plum fruit supported by sweetness and clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean savory finish. Quite pleasant, and I do like the return to more fruit and less spice, which is how I remember Tedeschi's wines in the past, though it needs time. 2-3 years at least, and 5 wouldn't be amiss; it will also age quite well for a decade or more beyond the current 5.
2 stars

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Reciolto della Valpolicella Classico 2005
Impenetrable pyrope with deep cherry ruby rim. Poured ink. The bouquet is powerful and quite sweet with jammy prune cherry fruit supported by pleasing sandalwood spice and dusky warmth; it's quite harmonious and one could write at length without getting much further than providing more descriptors. In short, it offers a lot to think about. On the palate it's ample with rich prune cherry fruit supported by deft greenish sandalwood acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean prune finish. A beautiful wine that will work very well with cheeses, though its true place is with like minded friends, far from the distractions of the table. Elisabetta Fagiuoli says an Amarone is a bad Recioto, and when faced with a wine like this one realizes she's right.
92-4

Tedeschi Capitel Fontana Reciolto della Valpolicella Classico 2006
Barrel sample
Impenetrable pyrope with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is still developing, but reveals prune and cherry fruit supported by dusky greenish sandalwood spice and some tart accents. Very fine. On the palate it's richer and fresher than the 2005, with more languid cherry prune fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft sandalwood acidity that flow into a long clean fresh finish that at present is a little dry thanks to the youth of the tannins. But it is promising, a beautiful wine that will have a great deal to say when it has come together.


Tedeschi La Fabriseria Vin De La Fabriseria Passito del Veronese IGT 2005
This is from white grapes and is elegant tawny apricot with brilliant apricot reflections and slight greenish highlights towards the rim. The bouquet is intense, and quite sweet, with greenish notes typical of Garganega and also with petroleum and spice, and bitter honey. On the palate it's ample and languid, with rich white berry fruit supported by clean bright acidity and by smooth sweetness and languid glycerin that flow into a clean fairly rich finish that carries a degree of acidity, and is thus very much alive.. Very nice, and will work beautifully at the close of the meal, when people have left the table and adjourned to the sitting room.
90

Going back a couple of Years: A Vertical of La Fabriseria

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